Hi, I really appreciate your great videos. I've done this job many times. The only thing that I find easier is when everything is out of the way, (about at 6 min. point of your video) I work from the top (not under) the car to remove alternator. The bolts are visible and easily accessible . I remove wiring AFTER the alternator is out and in my hand. Super easy. Thought I'd pass it on
@mod mini I dont think I've ever seen a "how to" as thorough as what I just watched. This alternator is BURIED and you still made it look easy. I'm impressed!!! THank you!!!
I completed this install yesterday! This video saved me. It took 2 people to complete it and about 6 hours bc I also made a metal brace for my cracked radiator support at the bottom. This video was incredible and the hardest parts for us were fitting the pin in the hole for the serpentine belt, and unhooking the top clip from the old alternator. Your definitely need two people for this job. THANK YOU!
@@ryanabrahams6446 This was my first time making an in-depth repair like this. I'm glad this video existed! I learned more about the car and probably saved around $500+ from the mechanic!
Mod mini is a legend in DIY repairs. He’s helped me fix a lot of things with my 2004 R50 Cooper. Congrats on your success. Keep coming back to this channel for ALL kinds of great step by step fixes.
Just replaced mine last week. I am a novice at best, and had this video at the ready the whole way. Can not tell you how much this helped me. Now I am scanning your videos for the next project. Thank you Sir!
I recently got a R50 mini and my alternator started giving me problems about a week ago. This video was very helpful with a indepth step by step install. When my new alternator comes in, I won't get stuck hopefully. Thank you!
Just for the garage mechanic who doesn't have a tension reliever tool. If you look down on the actual tension arm you can use a standard pry bar. Using the area where the tensioner bolts to the engine (and pivots) rest the pry bar there using it as a fulcrum and with the spoon of the bar facing up you can grab the lip of the tensioner arm and leverage it up enough to release the belt. Necessity is the mother of invention. Thanks for a well done video.
Wish I had read the comments before going to find those M10 bolts because mine were M8s as some others reported. Other than that great video. One TIP for people who cant wait to order the belt tensioner tool online - I just used my big floor jack with a foot long piece of 2 inch steel pipe set under the tensioner pulley. You do have to go at a slight angle so it wants to push your jack out - to solve this I ended up using another 8 foot piece of pipe between the jack and the brick at the back of the garage. 3 pumps and I could see the 2nd hole and put a 10p nail in it. Contriving this solution was the hardest part for me as I didnt want to order the tool. Great video thanks!
Just finished.....SUCCESS!!!! 😍 I didn't bother disconnecting snorkel or a.c & still had plenty of work space. Thank you as always sir. Your the very Best!!!
Just did this, thanks to you! I didn’t have to pull the AC unit down nor disconnect the driver side horn. There was plenty of room to access the alternator just sliding the whole radiator and AC unit forward on 150mm bolts (m8x1.0 not m10 as listed in the video). I followed other commenters advice to remove the alternator first carefully then remove the wires from the top. My power cable actually was different than in your video (‘05 r53) so it was even easier. Thanks so much for your videos they really are phenomenal! Next I’m tackling the strut mounts.
The very best auto repair video or any You tube do-it-yourself video I have seen. Did the replacementwithout issue. Extremely accurate and did not miss anything. The only issue I had was the two M10x1.25x200mm+ bolts, I could not find anywhere so I ordered 300+MM threaded rod M10 with 1.25 threads. The treaded rod of course was too large since I think the author was just describing the M10 hex bolt size. Tip: Just but 2 cheap 8" long Phillips screw driver at the hardware store 6$ each, put a little vinyl electric tape to protect the female threads and use that to slide out the front end. For all mini repairs will look for MOD MINI- thanks dude
I'm doing a repair myself on my R53. Your videos are very helpful and i'm pretty sure it will be in rotation this weekend as i tackle this DIY project.
Thank you, Mod Mini, for the video and the many useful comments from your fans. I was able to get rid of the battery light on 2nd try (1st Amazon renewed alternator was a dud, but the second one, a TYC, fired right up, the light went away and the power steering came back, and confirmed that the 1st Bosch reman was a dud.) Yes, I found that working on the alternator from the top was easier; and the threaded rods are indeed M8…! Now I am better at putting the Mini in front-end service mode all thanks to you! Next project, supercharger service! I wonder if it’s possible to do it w/o disconnecting the coolant hose(s) or the a/c system…
To add to the long 8M bolt issue - Long bolts appear to be nonexistent. Adapting, I went to Ace Hardware for a 5/16th x 12 inch rod, cut it in half and threaded it with a 8M 1.25 die. This provides more than 4 inches to work with, making the alternator pretty easy to remove and replace. Thanks. This is a great video. Sure beats the trial and error method :-)
A really helpful video very specific in order and even tells you what size sockets and wrenches you will need. One of the most comprehensive videos I found
Great video. Followed your instructions with the exception I needed 8mmx1.25 bolts to hang the front end on my STD 2003 Mini. The 10mm x 1.25 thread was too big. Thank you for taking the time to make clear instructions for the home mechanics. This saved me $1,000 over local dealer quote.
Very informative, I have been asked several times to do alternators on these, and because of the position I have always refused. After watching you do one I will not refuse any more, thank you for your knowledge and sharing.
To anyone reading this comment years after the Video, not just any M10 bolt from ACE will work. You need to verify the thread pattern. Take one of these bolts with you and make sure you’re getting the right part.
@@rakuchina well, it was 4 years ago when I posted this so, no. Did a M8x1.25 work for you? The M10 the video mentioned didn’t work for me, which is why I said this. I also said take some hardware with you to the hardware store to verify.
@@stildo6848 No, not yet. I’ve been procrastinating all because of this confusion, and MOD MINI maybe too busy to reply. The M8’s are plentiful and cheaper on Amazon; whereas the M10’s are harder to find and pricier. Was shocked out of a fastener store when they printed a PO and asked me to pay for a “rusty” 3’ M10x1.25 rod for close to $100!!! Would someone just shout out which one is a exact fit, M8x1.25 or M10x1.25? Much appreciated!
Wonderful Video, Great explaining on the steps to change the alternator. Thank you Sir! although at 3:50 we were confused as the slider bolts we used are thread M8 X 1.25 not M10
Thank you so much for your videos..I replaced my clutch last year from your videos now replacing the alternator .you made the videos so anyone can get a he job done.please continue to make more videos.so my car will continue to run!
Thank you for recording this. My son and I used this video to recenter the serpentine belt. It skipped a tooth on the super charger pulley and was rubbing on the engine.. Was weird because it was the only pulley that was out of alignment. We're both novices - and you helped out. Many thanks.
@@ModMINI it gets many views from me (as do most of your vids) because I keep putting in cheap parts then I need to do it again in a year.. By then I forgot all the nuts and bolts from last time.
This video saved my life. Funny thing is, I've been putting of getting a 15% pulley. This repair was a must, and gave me a reason to put the new pulley on. Thanks a ton!!!
Great video!!! Helped so much that you spec'd out all the bolts and fasteners along the way. Very very helpful video. Made it an easy job! But yes the service bolts for sliding the front assem off are M8 x 1.25, not M10. Thanks very much!
Great Video - THANKS. We used it on my son's 2004 Mini Cooper, Base. There were some minor differences, but it was essentially the same. The long bolts you recommended to hold the radiator are a great help. On ours the bolts are M8x1.25 (not M10). Our big box store did not carry these any longer than 2-1/2". I could get some 5/16x18 (coarse thread) x6" bolts to go in a few threads with no damage and able to hold the light weight. We did not have a belt tensioner tool, but were able to push up on the bracket from underneath with a crow bar and have another person remove the belt.
Great video......helped me a stack with my 2006 R53 Cooper S. However, the M10 bolts you suggested to extend the radiator travel are actually M8 on my model. Still great tutorial and I have the alternator off.
Great video, as always! I noticed that this car also has a leaking crank sensor o-ring. You mentioned in another video of yours, it is a very common problem. If I work on as many R53's as you do, I would keep a few on hand for times like this. You were right there!
I usually do have spares on hand, but I gave out my last one a short while ago. This car will need a clutch in the next year or so - the owner said we can just change it then.
@@ModMINI Do you recommend changing the crank sensor o ring while replacing the alternator? Is access easy? If so I will change since it never has been and it has 131,000
This was very good. I found it easier to disconnect the alternator after I had 'dropped' it from the engine. This was nearly as good as the cylinder head video.
Instructions are on point and thanks for your how-to video, much appreciated! Question, I noticed my alternator wire plug cracked along the edge when I removed it, it still looks in tact but I want to know if I should still use this original one.
well done on your video... VERY HELPFUL!! An 04 came into my shop today for alt, belt and tensioner, oil pan and gasket, both CV axles, control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway links and much more... customer asked if it would be done today lol... Workin on it😇
Great vid, thanks. I had the longer top alternator bolt snap when trying to fit. It didn't seem to pull the top of the alternator tight to engine casing, I could feel tension on the bolt, and it snapped. Maybe I didn't have the alternator correctly aligned, like you pointed out in this vid.
If you do close the hatch/boot, you can always open it by lifting the back seats. You will see a steel cable with a ring on it. That is the manual release to open the back hatch/boot.
If only u could come over to Sweden and help me and my buddy with his 04 S .... Im freaking out over all the screws and stuff that needs to be removed.... Really good tutorial tho! Big thumbs up!
Hi. Thank you for all the Mini related videos. Can you upload a video that shows how to change the Transmission Fluid on R53? Or just how to lower the sub frame? Thank you.
Doing this one today...better fix my power steering issue ;) (Did the swap of the PS pump last weekend and still goes out) :( Thanks again for your videos and guidance!
Ok thank you again to Kurt Turns out that the "previous" alternator change, 3.5 years ago, "someone" put in a 10mm bolt that was too long and "pierced" the plastic on the the radiator!!!!! Crazy as their were no leaks in those years! Just using the same bolts that are too long, and added RTV sealing and crossing my fingers "short-term"....sigh
@mod mini This video saved me so much time and money just like all of your other videos. I’ve gotten pretty good at fixing problems with my mini. I thought about doing a “local mini mechanic” side gig. My question for you is how do your clients hear about you and how do you get business? And do you think that is a good idea for me to try? Thanks buddy! I’d love if you could get back to me!👍
Another fantastic video. I don't see a specific video that addresses the serpentine belt itself. My question for you is, how often do you replace the idler pulley and tensioner? I am unaware of a factory recommended replacement interval. Belt manufacturers push replacing all three at once. Could you please provide some insight?
Geez Kurt, you make it look like you've worked on the cars before lol. Hay Fozee Black said i need to bring my Clubman S to you so you can do a video. Just kidding, you make everything you do look so easy! Keep up good work, Mike.
Thank you for the video. I heard a whirring/whining sound similar to power steering sound. I think it's a diode. I'm just gonna go ahead and replace the alternator and belt also. Thank you! FYI!!! my 05 mini Cooper S has been issued another recall on the power steering. let your customers know.
Got one off Amazon no problem Not sure if they have Autozone up there but I assume they have something similar where they will loan you the tool. You could use mine if there was a way to get it to ya
Thanks Mod Mini. Did the clutch last year, watching you step by evil step. Now I have to replace the alternator. It 'went out' at the same time as the PSP died. Maybe the dead alternator let the battery drain down, and as it died, while underway, it fried the PSP?? Any chance there's logic to that? Would like to know before I tear back into this little (pos) darling and hang more new parts on it! Thanks MM. I bend wrenches a lot, and am a retired doc; I admire your skill and technique.
Hi Mod Mini. I appreciate you making and sharing this video. I helped me a lot this holiday weekend. I replaced Power Steering Pump and Alternator. Followed your instructions step by step. Question: After I was done with the repairs, I started the car and it runs great, No leaks and the battery light went away. But now, I get the yellow Check Engine light. Why is this? it was not on before the repairs. Is it like a reset code? Please help.
You shouldn't get a code just from doing those two jobs. You may have left something unplugged. You'll have to read the code to get an idea of what the problem is.
Wow! Just saw Haily Melendez's post, and your reply, from a year ago! Looks like it might just could be what's going on here! PSP power is cut when alt dies to limp you home!
Great video. Well done. I have two shims left over. They are black metal about 2 inches by 2 inches. One says LH the other RH. I have a picture. Both have large hole in each one, a tab, and a slide over. Thoughts? Thanks
First of all, your videos are so good! I’m a mechanic myself, but my R53 does this wierd thing, when i cruise it’s jumping, like it doesn’t get the right amount of fuel or like the alternator doesn’t charge enough. When i put the gas to the floor it drives normal. Like it can’t cruise or drive slow. Any ideas? As a mechanic i will always start with the cheapest solution, with new spark plugs (maybe iridium) and new plug wires. Thanks for the videos, i appreciate them so much!
You made it look so easy. I have a 04 Cooper S that I have been experiencing electrical issues. My battery seems to die after a fee days of driving after I jump start my car. I notice the ignition cranks slower everytime I start my car, and afterwards the battery seems dead. The drivers window shudders down, the dash lights flicker. What problem were you experiencing?
Thank you so much for such a detailed & helpful description, I will be attempting this on mys Sons car tomorrow morning, I do have a question though, we pulled the battery out of the car to charge it after finding out it was the alternator....now car fails to start & we're told that the battery has to be "synced" with the car again, dealer want $425.00 to do this, surely there is a cheaper way to accomplish this ?. thanks for any help you can give me.
What year MINI? There is no such process for the 2002-2006 and I believe not for the 2007-2013 either. If anything there may be an issue with key / immobilizer falling out of sync or you just don't have high enough state of charge to start the car, which I have never seen myself (and I have disconnected batteries probably a hundred times) but have heard about it online. Press the dealer for more information before spending money on that. Also, why so expensive? Does it take 3-4 hours to just "sync" a battery? Doesn't pass sniff test.
it is a 2003 "S" after pressing the "advisors" @ Mini, they said it should start as well (but battery still need synced) I have replaced the battery with a new one, no difference, seems like a anti theft thing to me, when you try the ignition the car will click all the parking lights on & off for 1 minute...does it everytime I try to start it (& nothing else), this car has been sitting for 10 weeks now & getting to the point where we might need to trailer it to the dealer (which I hate to do) I know they're must be an easy fix for this somehow, if I can just find someone who knows/experienced this problem. Thanks for any help I can get. Bruce
There is no need with a first gen mini to do anything to sync the battery. In rare cases, you may have a key immobilizer issue where the car will not start with its own key, and dealer needs to reprogram the car to recognize the key. But that is not a normal thing. I have disocnnected and replaced many gen 1 batteries and never had to do such a thing. There is something else going on here. I don't know what it is but probably best to have the dealer fix it - they have computers that can talk to the various systems and do a proper diagnosis.
My power steering in my 05 convertible keeps cutting in and out every couple weeks or so. My car starts just fine and doesn't seem to have a problem with powering the Harman/Kardon sound system and such. I did manage to kill my battery once but this was an issue before that. I do know that when the dealership serviced my power steering system last year, the mechanic who refilled it had actually put the wrong fluid in and caused a huge leak in the system so they had to take it back.
This video helped a lot! My 2006 mini cooper S recently had the power steering go out after the battery light went on. We got the battery tested and it was charged 50%, so we followed this to get the alternator out & tested and it was in fact bad. We're now waiting on a new alternator. Do you know if the power steering will work after replacing the alternator, or do you think we'll need to replace that too?
Car is designed to cut out power steering when alternator is not functioning (battery would drain in minutes). PS will return when charging system health is restored.
I love watching your video, even if I wasn't looking at doing any repair. But for this instance, I'm looking to get my alternator replace. The 2 alternator you recommended in the comment above, how are they holding up? I heard remanufactured alternator doesn't last that long in a mini. But I also can't justify spending for OEM part if remanufactured work . Thanks in advance.
I will be working on an 04 mini. I think that that makes it an R53. Either way it is a base model naturally aspirated, can I remove the bumpers and move the radiator forward as you did in your video? I bought the digital service manual and will follow it’s instructions too, but if I got a response in the next twelve hours that would boat my confidence with this repair. Thank you!!!
This needs doing on my R53 now. Just started her up at work and lost power steering and battery light on. Can i ask how long this would take a pro mechanic to replace as i don't wanna be ripped off when it comes to installation costs. Thanks guys!
I want to start working on my MINI, but I hate the idea of having my whole front end off then I realize I don't have a certain tool. What tools should I buy to be able to do anything on my MINI, from oil changes to clutch replacements.
It is not that hard to take off the front end. I try to name the bolt sizes or show the tools as I work so viewers can plan. It is hard to list every tool for working on a MINI, and depends what work you intend to do - maybe I will make a video of them sometime. But to get started, something like the following: Ametric socket and wrench set with sizes from around 8mm - 21mm (same for box wrenches), metric allen (hex) socket or wrench set, torx sockets or wrenches T20 to T50, + and - screwdrivers, big fat hammer, floor jack, jack stands, 36mm shallow 6 point socket (for oil changes), rear back pushback tool, OBD scanner, voltmeter, pry bars, etc.
***** Haha yeah the first thing I bought was a floor jack that turned out to be too short to fit under my MINI, and I also got those RhinoGear service ramps, I'm thinking they're gonna end up being very useful. And YES, I'm sure everybody here and on /r/MINI would love a tools video. Meanwhile I'll get on those tools.
Mod Mini, This just happened to my 2007 R52. Just watched this to see if it was beyond my capability, and with my current tool set, I'd say it is. However, I'm curious to know how long the actual repair/replacement was that you demonstrated in a 12 minute video? My repair is going to cost nearly $800 - Over $300 for the alternator, and the rest labor and taxes.
It's impossible to say how long it would take for a given person to do this work due to vast differences in mechanical aptitude, prior repair experience and available tools. However, someone with prior mechanical experience and the correct tools should be able to do in a few hours. You will need a belt removal tool at minimum. All of the other tools are commonly available. There are a bunch of alternators available online or at auto parts shops for less than $300.
10 minutes bumper off - 20 secs radiator hose clamp moved, 25 secs Tensionor tool - just freaking awesome - three bolts and viola - 50 minutes - in and out - but - there always seems to be a but - - my replacement alt bolt brackets were 3/4" shorter and in my entire city there was not a one - M8x1.25 the length I needed and I did not have threader for this - so I did a no no - washers and spacers to make up difference . - I will weld a sleeve onto bolts later if I can not find the correct size - it was very odd that the factory OEM number was different than what I removed - perhaps the mechanic before me - bought a different model and tossed the original bolts - but add 2 hours running from parts store to ports store to big box hardware shops - argh - BUT - the Tensioner tool was the bees knees - just awesome - oh and no super charger made this very easy - the alt is high and all three bolts reached from above....thank you for your posts
Hi Mod Mini. Thanks for the awesome videos! I have just replaced my alternator and move to a 17% pulley with a 60532 belt and new belt tensioner. At reassembly I have several inches excess belt! Could you mention some of the likely mistakes I may have made? Many thanks.
So despite staring at the diagram repeatedly, it turned out that I did in fact route the belt incorrectly. All worked out. Thanks again for all your detailed videos.
Quick question - I need to replace the serpentine belt tensioner... is there an easy way to R&R without having to lift the motor or pull the radiator forward? Is there enough room to drop it somehow past the motor and through the passenger wheel well? Thanks in advance
I think my serpentine belt ceased up, and it caused my Mini to go into limp mode were it had just enough power to get off the road; also, the temperature gauge nearly maxed out all at the same time. Battery and check engine light came on at the same time. Would a failing alternator cause the serpentine belt to cease up and stop the entire belt?
My 03 mcs has a strange grinding noise coming from below the supercharger. Had a mechanic look at it n he said its the bearing in the alternator so im gunna replace that tonight. Just seeing if thats what you think it could be also. Would really hate to do this install if its a waste of time. Let me know. Thanks.
I would have to listen to the car with a stethoscope to have any comment. Good luck. I've not personally seen an alternator make noise, usually it's idler pulley or supercharger going bad but it can certainly be the alternator.
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Hi, I really appreciate your great videos. I've done this job many times. The only thing that I find easier is when everything is out of the way, (about at 6 min. point of your video) I work from the top (not under) the car to remove alternator. The bolts are visible and easily accessible . I remove wiring AFTER the alternator is out and in my hand. Super easy. Thought I'd pass it on
@mod mini I dont think I've ever seen a "how to" as thorough as what I just watched. This alternator is BURIED and you still made it look easy. I'm impressed!!! THank you!!!
I completed this install yesterday! This video saved me. It took 2 people to complete it and about 6 hours bc I also made a metal brace for my cracked radiator support at the bottom. This video was incredible and the hardest parts for us were fitting the pin in the hole for the serpentine belt, and unhooking the top clip from the old alternator. Your definitely need two people for this job. THANK YOU!
Two people 6 hours to fit an alternator? Lmao bring a mechanic in
@@ryanabrahams6446 This was my first time making an in-depth repair like this. I'm glad this video existed! I learned more about the car and probably saved around $500+ from the mechanic!
Mod mini is a legend in DIY repairs. He’s helped me fix a lot of things with my 2004 R50 Cooper. Congrats on your success. Keep coming back to this channel for ALL kinds of great step by step fixes.
Just replaced mine last week. I am a novice at best, and had this video at the ready the whole way. Can not tell you how much this helped me. Now I am scanning your videos for the next project. Thank you Sir!
How long did it take you to get the job done?
Thanks for doing this video, I’ve just done the alternator on my R53 and this video was brilliant, used it a lot as a reference as I went through.
I recently got a R50 mini and my alternator started giving me problems about a week ago. This video was very helpful with a indepth step by step install. When my new alternator comes in, I won't get stuck hopefully. Thank you!
Just for the garage mechanic who doesn't have a tension reliever tool. If you look down on the actual tension arm you can use a standard pry bar. Using the area where the tensioner bolts to the engine (and pivots) rest the pry bar there using it as a fulcrum and with the spoon of the bar facing up you can grab the lip of the tensioner arm
and leverage it up enough to release the belt. Necessity is the mother of invention. Thanks for a well done video.
Works, but keep your fingers (and your friend's fingers) clear... and be careful not to damage the pulleys
Wish I had read the comments before going to find those M10 bolts because mine were M8s as some others reported. Other than that great video.
One TIP for people who cant wait to order the belt tensioner tool online - I just used my big floor jack with a foot long piece of 2 inch steel pipe set under the tensioner pulley. You do have to go at a slight angle so it wants to push your jack out - to solve this I ended up using another 8 foot piece of pipe between the jack and the brick at the back of the garage. 3 pumps and I could see the 2nd hole and put a 10p nail in it. Contriving this solution was the hardest part for me as I didnt want to order the tool.
Great video thanks!
Just finished.....SUCCESS!!!! 😍 I didn't bother disconnecting snorkel or a.c & still had plenty of work space. Thank you as always sir. Your the very Best!!!
Just did this, thanks to you! I didn’t have to pull the AC unit down nor disconnect the driver side horn. There was plenty of room to access the alternator just sliding the whole radiator and AC unit forward on 150mm bolts (m8x1.0 not m10 as listed in the video). I followed other commenters advice to remove the alternator first carefully then remove the wires from the top. My power cable actually was different than in your video (‘05 r53) so it was even easier. Thanks so much for your videos they really are phenomenal! Next I’m tackling the strut mounts.
The very best auto repair video or any You tube do-it-yourself video I have seen. Did the replacementwithout issue. Extremely accurate and did not miss anything. The only issue I had was the two M10x1.25x200mm+ bolts, I could not find anywhere so I ordered 300+MM threaded rod M10 with 1.25 threads. The treaded rod of course was too large since I think the author was just describing the M10 hex bolt size. Tip: Just but 2 cheap 8" long Phillips screw driver at the hardware store 6$ each, put a little vinyl electric tape to protect the female threads and use that to slide out the front end. For all mini repairs will look for MOD MINI- thanks dude
Daniel Mullin Thanks. I need to check those bolts again, they might be M8...
***** Just checking as I'm about to attempt this. Have you checked what the bolts are yet. Thanks in advance.
I'm doing a repair myself on my R53. Your videos are very helpful and i'm pretty sure it will be in rotation this weekend as i tackle this DIY project.
Thank you, Mod Mini, for the video and the many useful comments from your fans. I was able to get rid of the battery light on 2nd try (1st Amazon renewed alternator was a dud, but the second one, a TYC, fired right up, the light went away and the power steering came back, and confirmed that the 1st Bosch reman was a dud.) Yes, I found that working on the alternator from the top was easier; and the threaded rods are indeed M8…! Now I am better at putting the Mini in front-end service mode all thanks to you! Next project, supercharger service! I wonder if it’s possible to do it w/o disconnecting the coolant hose(s) or the a/c system…
To add to the long 8M bolt issue - Long bolts appear to be nonexistent. Adapting, I went to Ace Hardware for a 5/16th x 12 inch rod, cut it in half and threaded it with a 8M 1.25 die. This provides more than 4 inches to work with, making the alternator pretty easy to remove and replace. Thanks. This is a great video. Sure beats the trial and error method :-)
A really helpful video very specific in order and even tells you what size sockets and wrenches you will need. One of the most comprehensive videos I found
Thanks Mod MINI. First go round took a while but in the end she is all back together and battery is charging!! You rock!
Great video. Followed your instructions with the exception I needed 8mmx1.25 bolts to hang the front end on my STD 2003 Mini. The 10mm x 1.25 thread was too big. Thank you for taking the time to make clear instructions for the home mechanics. This saved me $1,000 over local dealer quote.
The bolt is M8. I stated incorrectly in video and RUclips got rid of annotations.
Very informative, I have been asked several times to do alternators on these, and because of the position I have always refused. After watching you do one I will not refuse any more, thank you for your knowledge and sharing.
Glad that you pointed out where each of the bolts were. That helps. Very thorough vid sir. Best on RUclips!
To anyone reading this comment years after the Video, not just any M10 bolt from ACE will work. You need to verify the thread pattern. Take one of these bolts with you and make sure you’re getting the right part.
@@stildo6848Sure it’s an M10x1.25, and not an M8x1.25?
@@rakuchina well, it was 4 years ago when I posted this so, no. Did a M8x1.25 work for you? The M10 the video mentioned didn’t work for me, which is why I said this. I also said take some hardware with you to the hardware store to verify.
@@stildo6848 No, not yet. I’ve been procrastinating all because of this confusion, and MOD MINI maybe too busy to reply. The M8’s are plentiful and cheaper on Amazon; whereas the M10’s are harder to find and pricier. Was shocked out of a fastener store when they printed a PO and asked me to pay for a “rusty” 3’ M10x1.25 rod for close to $100!!! Would someone just shout out which one is a exact fit, M8x1.25 or M10x1.25? Much appreciated!
M8!
I followed this video's directions and I was able to change the alternator without any problems. Thanks a bunch.
Wonderful Video, Great explaining on the steps to change the alternator. Thank you Sir!
although at 3:50 we were confused as the slider bolts we used are thread M8 X 1.25 not M10
Thank you so much for your videos..I replaced my clutch last year from your videos now replacing the alternator .you made the videos so anyone can get a he job done.please continue to make more videos.so my car will continue to run!
Thank you for recording this. My son and I used this video to recenter the serpentine belt. It skipped a tooth on the super charger pulley and was rubbing on the engine..
Was weird because it was the only pulley that was out of alignment.
We're both novices - and you helped out. Many thanks.
The others are non-adjustable. This one is is barely adjustable.
I'm doing a neighbours alternator next weekend on his R53 and you just made my day a lot easier so thank you ✌
I know its been years since you posted this. But thank you. Your video turned a tedious job into a much shorter experience.
Video still getting lots of views
@@ModMINI it gets many views from me (as do most of your vids) because I keep putting in cheap parts then I need to do it again in a year.. By then I forgot all the nuts and bolts from last time.
@@ModMINI I have no idea why my voltage regulator failed. But I am once again replacing my alternator and your video is once again a god send
One of the best video I ever had seen, so illustrated, clear voice, best photography and all so prompt perfect and fast paced, two thumbs up !!
This video saved my life. Funny thing is, I've been putting of getting a 15% pulley. This repair was a must, and gave me a reason to put the new pulley on. Thanks a ton!!!
Great video!!! Helped so much that you spec'd out all the bolts and fasteners along the way. Very very helpful video. Made it an easy job! But yes the service bolts for sliding the front assem off are M8 x 1.25, not M10. Thanks very much!
Other tip is to test the new alternator and check belt alignment before bolting everything back up. Great Vid!
Great Video - THANKS. We used it on my son's 2004 Mini Cooper, Base. There were some minor differences, but it was essentially the same. The long bolts you recommended to hold the radiator are a great help. On ours the bolts are M8x1.25 (not M10). Our big box store did not carry these any longer than 2-1/2". I could get some 5/16x18 (coarse thread) x6" bolts to go in a few threads with no damage and able to hold the light weight. We did not have a belt tensioner tool, but were able to push up on the bracket from underneath with a crow bar and have another person remove the belt.
Sorry, the bolts are M8 but I can't go back and change the video. I have put in video description but nobody looks at that.
I can’t believe someone can dislike a perfect tutorial he gave even the stupidest detail great job broo @mod mini
No matter the video, 10% will dislike it
Great video......helped me a stack with my 2006 R53 Cooper S. However, the M10 bolts you suggested to extend the radiator travel are actually M8 on my model. Still great tutorial and I have the alternator off.
Great video, as always! I noticed that this car also has a leaking crank sensor o-ring. You mentioned in another video of yours, it is a very common problem. If I work on as many R53's as you do, I would keep a few on hand for times like this. You were right there!
I usually do have spares on hand, but I gave out my last one a short while ago. This car will need a clutch in the next year or so - the owner said we can just change it then.
@@ModMINI Do you recommend changing the crank sensor o ring while replacing the alternator? Is access easy? If so I will change since it never has been and it has 131,000
This was the best video on the mini for alternator swap. Great job. 👍
This was very good. I found it easier to disconnect the alternator after I had 'dropped' it from the engine. This was nearly as good as the cylinder head video.
Extremely helpful and well done. This video deserves respect!
Instructions are on point and thanks for your how-to video, much appreciated! Question, I noticed my alternator wire plug cracked along the edge when I removed it, it still looks in tact but I want to know if I should still use this original one.
Thank you for this video! I just changed the alternator in my 2005 Cooper S and I used this as a reference.
well done on your video... VERY HELPFUL!! An 04 came into my shop today for alt, belt and tensioner, oil pan and gasket, both CV axles, control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway links and much more... customer asked if it would be done today lol... Workin on it😇
Wow, that's a full day job even for someone who's done those jobs over and over. How long did it take?
Found this video when I needed to replace mine, followed the steps got it done in 45 minutes to an hour!
Great tutorial and very much appreciated. Just replaced my alternator (Cooper s 2007) using this method.
Thank you for making this video! You saved me a lot of time and hassle!
Chad Elish mikestraker
thanks man. just finished doing my alternator on my 2003 Cooper S.
this helped immensely.
Thanks! It was definitely the alternator. And, this video helped in so many ways. Now to get it all back together. The m8 bolts worked great.
Great vid, thanks. I had the longer top alternator bolt snap when trying to fit. It didn't seem to pull the top of the alternator tight to engine casing, I could feel tension on the bolt, and it snapped. Maybe I didn't have the alternator correctly aligned, like you pointed out in this vid.
If you do close the hatch/boot, you can always open it by lifting the back seats. You will see a steel cable with a ring on it. That is the manual release to open the back hatch/boot.
If only u could come over to Sweden and help me and my buddy with his 04 S .... Im freaking out over all the screws and stuff that needs to be removed....
Really good tutorial tho! Big thumbs up!
Thank you for this video. I’ve been doing lots of work on our mini. This was very helpful!
Hi. Thank you for all the Mini related videos. Can you upload a video that shows how to change the Transmission Fluid on R53? Or just how to lower the sub frame? Thank you.
Watch clutch replacement video. Both of those are covered.
Doing this one today...better fix my power steering issue ;) (Did the swap of the PS pump last weekend and still goes out) :(
Thanks again for your videos and guidance!
Ok hope not doing something wrong? But all my radiator fluid came out when I took off the 2x10mm bolts holding on the a/c condenser???
Ok thank you again to Kurt Turns out that the "previous" alternator change, 3.5 years ago, "someone" put in a 10mm bolt that was too long and "pierced" the plastic on the the radiator!!!!!
Crazy as their were no leaks in those years! Just using the same bolts that are too long, and added RTV sealing and crossing my fingers "short-term"....sigh
Just updating my previous comment. Good news!!! Check Engine light went away!!! Thanks again for sharing this how to videos.
Very helpful this video, thanks a lot. My new alternator is spinning in the Mini now.
@mod mini This video saved me so much time and money just like all of your other videos. I’ve gotten pretty good at fixing problems with my mini. I thought about doing a “local mini mechanic” side gig. My question for you is how do your clients hear about you and how do you get business? And do you think that is a good idea for me to try? Thanks buddy! I’d love if you could get back to me!👍
Another fantastic video.
I don't see a specific video that addresses the serpentine belt itself. My question for you is, how often do you replace the idler pulley and tensioner? I am unaware of a factory recommended replacement interval. Belt manufacturers push replacing all three at once. Could you please provide some insight?
Good Lord that just changed my mind of buying a convertible cooper......THAT IS JUST LUDICROUS!!!!
Geez Kurt, you make it look like you've worked on the cars before lol. Hay Fozee Black said i need to bring my Clubman S to you so you can do a video. Just kidding, you make everything you do look so easy! Keep up good work, Mike.
Yeah I've worked on the R53 platform a lot.
I do need to make some second generation videos - it's an untapped market! Bring it on over. :-)
Thank you very much for making this video. I wouldn’t know what remove to get this blasted alternator out
Thank you for the video. I heard a whirring/whining sound similar to power steering sound. I think it's a diode. I'm just gonna go ahead and replace the alternator and belt also. Thank you! FYI!!! my 05 mini Cooper S has been issued another recall on the power steering. let your customers know.
It could be that or the idler pulley.
Great explainer ! best videos. How much time did this job take to complete ?
Very helpful video, thanks for doing a properly edited video!
You are my hero! Nothing easy on a mini.
About to do this job. Your videos are always spot on and so helpful!
Nice job, I just did the water pump, then after putting it back together I found out my rad leaked. Fortunately its all nice and easy to R&R
Your'e videos are excellent. I've saved several several thousand dollars.
amazing video as always, replaced my alternator with it flawlessly thanks brotha!
Did you have any issues finding the tensioner tool? I’m stuck at this point and can’t find one in BC.
Got one off Amazon no problem
Not sure if they have Autozone up there but I assume they have something similar where they will loan you the tool.
You could use mine if there was a way to get it to ya
Thanks Mod Mini. Did the clutch last year, watching you step by evil step. Now I have to replace the alternator. It 'went out' at the same time as the PSP died. Maybe the dead alternator let the battery drain down, and as it died, while underway, it fried the PSP?? Any chance there's logic to that? Would like to know before I tear back into this little (pos) darling and hang more new parts on it! Thanks MM. I bend wrenches a lot, and am a retired doc; I admire your skill and technique.
Hi Mod Mini. I appreciate you making and sharing this video. I helped me a lot this holiday weekend. I replaced Power Steering Pump and Alternator. Followed your instructions step by step.
Question:
After I was done with the repairs, I started the car and it runs great, No leaks and the battery light went away. But now, I get the yellow Check Engine light. Why is this? it was not on before the repairs. Is it like a reset code? Please help.
You shouldn't get a code just from doing those two jobs. You may have left something unplugged. You'll have to read the code to get an idea of what the problem is.
The best educational video. That I see Wow Thank a lot for share your knowledge.
5 STARTS!!!!
Thank you for such a detailed excellent tutorial, will be changing mine this weekend thanks to you...
Wow! Just saw Haily Melendez's post, and your reply, from a year ago! Looks like it might just could be what's going on here! PSP power is cut when alt dies to limp you home!
Excellently done. Less than 15 MINUTES! Wanna DO MINE? Lol!
Great video. Well done. I have two shims left over. They are black metal about 2 inches by 2 inches. One says LH the other RH. I have a picture. Both have large hole in each one, a tab, and a slide over. Thoughts? Thanks
Topmost hole for the aluminum bumper. They aren't really necessary.
First of all, your videos are so good! I’m a mechanic myself, but my R53 does this wierd thing, when i cruise it’s jumping, like it doesn’t get the right amount of fuel or like the alternator doesn’t charge enough. When i put the gas to the floor it drives normal. Like it can’t cruise or drive slow. Any ideas?
As a mechanic i will always start with the cheapest solution, with new spark plugs (maybe iridium) and new plug wires. Thanks for the videos, i appreciate them so much!
Could Belt or bypass valve. Upgrade to 15% supercharger pulley also sometimes helps.
Great Video!!! Followed it step by step last night on my Ipad while I was in the shop :)
Dan Donohue That's one way to do it. Technology!
Good video, thanks. And it did end up being as easy as it looked.
You made it look so easy. I have a 04 Cooper S that I have been experiencing electrical issues. My battery seems to die after a fee days of driving after I jump start my car. I notice the ignition cranks slower everytime I start my car, and afterwards the battery seems dead. The drivers window shudders down, the dash lights flicker. What problem were you experiencing?
This car had a bad alternator. You may just need to fully charge the battery or replace the battery, but you'll need a voltage meter to know for sure.
Great video! Very helpful. Does anyone know how well this alternator replacement last? How reliable it is?
Thank you so much for such a detailed & helpful description, I will be attempting this on mys Sons car tomorrow morning, I do have a question though, we pulled the battery out of the car to charge it after finding out it was the alternator....now car fails to start & we're told that the battery has to be "synced" with the car again, dealer want $425.00 to do this, surely there is a cheaper way to accomplish this ?. thanks for any help you can give me.
What year MINI? There is no such process for the 2002-2006 and I believe not for the 2007-2013 either. If anything there may be an issue with key / immobilizer falling out of sync or you just don't have high enough state of charge to start the car, which I have never seen myself (and I have disconnected batteries probably a hundred times) but have heard about it online. Press the dealer for more information before spending money on that. Also, why so expensive? Does it take 3-4 hours to just "sync" a battery? Doesn't pass sniff test.
it is a 2003 "S" after pressing the "advisors" @ Mini, they said it should start as well (but battery still need synced) I have replaced the battery with a new one, no difference, seems like a anti theft thing to me, when you try the ignition the car will click all the parking lights on & off for 1 minute...does it everytime I try to start it (& nothing else), this car has been sitting for 10 weeks now & getting to the point where we might need to trailer it to the dealer (which I hate to do) I know they're must be an easy fix for this somehow, if I can just find someone who knows/experienced this problem. Thanks for any help I can get. Bruce
There is no need with a first gen mini to do anything to sync the battery. In rare cases, you may have a key immobilizer issue where the car will not start with its own key, and dealer needs to reprogram the car to recognize the key. But that is not a normal thing. I have disocnnected and replaced many gen 1 batteries and never had to do such a thing. There is something else going on here. I don't know what it is but probably best to have the dealer fix it - they have computers that can talk to the various systems and do a proper diagnosis.
bruceang82 did you figure this out? I am having the same problem.?
You're the best out there! Thank you for all your videos!
BRAVO !! AWESOME JOB..to the point no bs..thank you sir
Wow great job you made it look easy, these DIY vids are awesome they help when your in a pinch thank you.
My power steering in my 05 convertible keeps cutting in and out every couple weeks or so. My car starts just fine and doesn't seem to have a problem with powering the Harman/Kardon sound system and such. I did manage to kill my battery once but this was an issue before that. I do know that when the dealership serviced my power steering system last year, the mechanic who refilled it had actually put the wrong fluid in and caused a huge leak in the system so they had to take it back.
Jesse Hooton You have a bad power steering pump. ruclips.net/video/jjG28EEwoy4/видео.html
Awesome video. Very informative, great video of explaining how to accomplish the task. Very helpful.Thank you
A New Super thanks from France
One thing odd with my 2004 Cooper S is the long bolts to hold the radiator assembly were 8mm, not 10mm.
Awesome video, thank you so much saved me $800!!
This video helped a lot! My 2006 mini cooper S recently had the power steering go out after the battery light went on. We got the battery tested and it was charged 50%, so we followed this to get the alternator out & tested and it was in fact bad. We're now waiting on a new alternator. Do you know if the power steering will work after replacing the alternator, or do you think we'll need to replace that too?
Car is designed to cut out power steering when alternator is not functioning (battery would drain in minutes). PS will return when charging system health is restored.
I love watching your video, even if I wasn't looking at doing any repair. But for this instance, I'm looking to get my alternator replace. The 2 alternator you recommended in the comment above, how are they holding up? I heard remanufactured alternator doesn't last that long in a mini. But I also can't justify spending for OEM part if remanufactured work . Thanks in advance.
They fail sometimes but not always. these ones didn't
I will be working on an 04 mini. I think that that makes it an R53. Either way it is a base model naturally aspirated, can I remove the bumpers and move the radiator forward as you did in your video? I bought the digital service manual and will follow it’s instructions too, but if I got a response in the next twelve hours that would boat my confidence with this repair. Thank you!!!
You have an R50. Yes, put mini in front end service mode to replace alternator. Your model is a little different than the video but similar.
Thank you for posting such a thorough video! Really helped me a lot in being able to do it by myself 🥳
Thank you, Sir. You've been a big help.
This needs doing on my R53 now. Just started her up at work and lost power steering and battery light on. Can i ask how long this would take a pro mechanic to replace as i don't wanna be ripped
off when it comes to installation costs. Thanks guys!
They will charge you book time, not how long it actually takes. I don't know what book time is for this job. Maybe 3 hours or so.
I want to start working on my MINI, but I hate the idea of having my whole front end off then I realize I don't have a certain tool.
What tools should I buy to be able to do anything on my MINI, from oil changes to clutch replacements.
It is not that hard to take off the front end.
I try to name the bolt sizes or show the tools as I work so viewers can plan. It is hard to list every tool for working on a MINI, and depends what work you intend to do - maybe I will make a video of them sometime. But to get started, something like the following:
Ametric socket and wrench set with sizes from around 8mm - 21mm (same for box wrenches), metric allen (hex) socket or wrench set, torx sockets or wrenches T20 to T50, + and - screwdrivers, big fat hammer, floor jack, jack stands, 36mm shallow 6 point socket (for oil changes), rear back pushback tool, OBD scanner, voltmeter, pry bars, etc.
***** Haha yeah the first thing I bought was a floor jack that turned out to be too short to fit under my MINI, and I also got those RhinoGear service ramps, I'm thinking they're gonna end up being very useful. And YES, I'm sure everybody here and on /r/MINI would love a tools video. Meanwhile I'll get on those tools.
Mod Mini, This just happened to my 2007 R52. Just watched this to see if it was beyond my capability, and with my current tool set, I'd say it is. However, I'm curious to know how long the actual repair/replacement was that you demonstrated in a 12 minute video?
My repair is going to cost nearly $800 - Over $300 for the alternator, and the rest labor and taxes.
It's impossible to say how long it would take for a given person to do this work due to vast differences in mechanical aptitude, prior repair experience and available tools. However, someone with prior mechanical experience and the correct tools should be able to do in a few hours. You will need a belt removal tool at minimum. All of the other tools are commonly available. There are a bunch of alternators available online or at auto parts shops for less than $300.
10 minutes bumper off - 20 secs radiator hose clamp moved, 25 secs Tensionor tool - just freaking awesome - three bolts and viola - 50 minutes - in and out - but - there always seems to be a but - - my replacement alt bolt brackets were 3/4" shorter and in my entire city there was not a one - M8x1.25 the length I needed and I did not have threader for this - so I did a no no - washers and spacers to make up difference . - I will weld a sleeve onto bolts later if I can not find the correct size - it was very odd that the factory OEM number was different than what I removed - perhaps the mechanic before me - bought a different model and tossed the original bolts - but add 2 hours running from parts store to ports store to big box hardware shops - argh - BUT - the Tensioner tool was the bees knees - just awesome - oh and no super charger made this very easy - the alt is high and all three bolts reached from above....thank you for your posts
Hi Mod Mini. Thanks for the awesome videos! I have just replaced my alternator and move to a 17% pulley with a 60532 belt and new belt tensioner. At reassembly I have several inches excess belt! Could you mention some of the likely mistakes I may have made? Many thanks.
So despite staring at the diagram repeatedly, it turned out that I did in fact route the belt incorrectly. All worked out. Thanks again for all your detailed videos.
Great video we need you in the uk !!!! :)
How many hours did it take to do all this start to finish
No more than two but what takes one person an hour can take another person an entire weekend.
Quick question - I need to replace the serpentine belt tensioner... is there an easy way to R&R without having to lift the motor or pull the radiator forward? Is there enough room to drop it somehow past the motor and through the passenger wheel well? Thanks in advance
ikappedkermit No need to pull radiator forward but you will need to remove top motor mount at the least.
I think my serpentine belt ceased up, and it caused my Mini to go into limp mode were it had just enough power to get off the road; also, the temperature gauge nearly maxed out all at the same time. Battery and check engine light came on at the same time. Would a failing alternator cause the serpentine belt to cease up and stop the entire belt?
My 03 mcs has a strange grinding noise coming from below the supercharger. Had a mechanic look at it n he said its the bearing in the alternator so im gunna replace that tonight. Just seeing if thats what you think it could be also. Would really hate to do this install if its a waste of time. Let me know. Thanks.
I would have to listen to the car with a stethoscope to have any comment. Good luck. I've not personally seen an alternator make noise, usually it's idler pulley or supercharger going bad but it can certainly be the alternator.