2 part epoxy mixed with some chopped up fibreglass makes an incredibly strong glue repair. Sand up the surfaces around the hole, put masking tape on the rear side of the hole, fill the whole thing in with epoxy / fibreglass mix and let it set up. Then drill through with whatever size you need for the barb fitting and epoxy that in place too. You can use a brass barb in place of the plastic one.
Yes. A repair with a bush, barb or other fitting that is a tight fit in a drilled hole is the way to go. Also, where adhesive is used, thoroughly degrease first. Probably with brake cleaner or something like that.
@@ianmontgomery7534 Yes I have used this to repair small items, it is however quite brittle and will crack from the parent material sometimes, and I'm also not sure how it would handle oil vapour and hot temperature under an engine bay.
Mice and rats hate the smell of Jeyes fluid. Mix a strong dilution and spray it on the wheels and legs to stop them climbing up. I used to have a caravan in a barn. I had a mouse problem one winter but after that used the Jeyes fluid and never had any more
I feel your pain. I once struggled, in the rain, on a muddy driveway, to fit a new radiator to my Reliant Robin van. The job was one of 'those' where everything was seized, nuts had no corners etc, and it took ages, in failing light with a run down bicycle lamp as my only light source. The van was started and there was a tinkling sound. A spanner, vibrated from the heater box, fell on the whirring fan and went......through the new radiator. Not much language was repeatable in polite society from our house for some little while.
Winterising Bob, undercover in the unit, take off the wheels, support on the levelling jacks, lift jockey wheel. Coat the jacks in a thick coat of grease so the mice cannot climb them (and prevent rust). Place inside Bob loaded bait boxes as used in restaurants, might be an idea to get some rat ones for the unit as well (local pest control company can supply), check them monthly for droppings and the inside of Bob for any bodies. Ensure Bob is spotless inside and no food of any kind left inside , remove any soft furnishings and kitchen stuff (storage containers, pots and pans etc.).
Use a threaded barb with the same size as the hose it goes to, when drilling in the hole for the barb, make sure a bit smaller so the thread can cut in to the plastic with a rubber oring at the end of the thread to seal it.
For Ms Hubnut glad to see your royalty and affection for chemmy & Bob ... my wife was taking lesson back in 2020 when you were ... and has now been driving for 2 years she loves it .. and loves her Kia Ceed "Dotty" will be good to see you and chemmy on the road ... you need to do a roadtest/review of living with Chemmy.
There are "2 part" superglue type adhesives specifically for plastics which work incredibly well. Part one is a tube of "superglue", part two is a marker containing etch primer. I've glued the kids cheap greasy flexible plastic toys (polyethelene?) and the bond didn't break. The toy did, but across the bond which stayed fixed. Anpther fix and it's solid as a rock again. Highly recommended. Tip. Primer seems to work with ordinary superglue when the original tube is empty!
Peppermint oils and dryer sheets are my go to when putting away for winter. They have to be refreshed periodically but safer around animals then poison. I leave lids and hoods open too, mice like the dark cozy spots.
We’ve had trailer tents and folding campers for many years when we lived in the UK and never had a problem with mould or mildew. Firstly make sure it is properly dry, and then put a de humidifier in it, put in a bowl, just in case it gets knocked.
While the manifold is off for repair, you may as well try and source a replacement gasket from Greece. You don't want to be taking the blooming thing off again!
Winterising Bob. couple of things you can do. Ensure no food left inside, even crumbs from crisps or biccies. A good hoovering, Vacuum storage bags for bedding and pillows. Any vents which meeces can get access through, pack with wire wool. still allows vents to breathe.
get a brass hose barb threaded on one end ,drill out broken barb, tap thread the hole ,install the brass one ,better chance of not breaking back off like if you try to glue old one back on
Its probably already been mentioned but Id take the manifold off and fit brass barbs to all the vacuum pipes as they seem prone to breaking, then get some thick gasket material and make up a gasket.
Araldite isn't the best solution for a hot engine bay, however, JB Weld is. I used the latter to glue together a shortened aluminium water fitting on an NA MX5 about 15 years ago and it's still intact and showing no sign of deterioration. Would recommend using the normal formula rather than the 1 minute stuff. They also make a plastic bonder but as I haven't used that yet I don't know how it performs. Good luck.
Ian. Snapped off pipe. Tap a thread into the remaining hole. Then take an piece aluminium or copper pipe and tap same thread onto it. Coat thtead with epoxy and screw into tapped hole. Done this many times works a treat and better than original plastic.
Suggested that a few videos back. It was dismissed due to the fear that any swarf in the inlet would damage the engine. With the manifold off that's not going to happen.
We are also going to the camping, caravan and motorhome show. We're going on the Sunday though hoping to grab a last day bargain. Love the channel...... Professional fumbling at its best. 👍😄
My Conway folding camper lived outside constantly and I never had an issue with damp or mice. As long as the canvas was dry when you last packed it away and you haven't left any food in it, you shouldn't have any issues. Only thing I will suggest is leave the handbrake off in the same way you do with your cars when nut using them to stop it siezing.
A really useful tool, for one who likes to bodge upon the cars, is one of those things that inserts hot staples. It heats them up a bit like how an instant solder gun heats up the tip by putting electric current through it. I've used these staples for repairs to many plastic parts: bumper, undertray, headlight mountings, hated vacuum cleaner. You name it, if it's made of thermoplastic polymer and sufficiently substantial you can stick these things in. Have a look at them on eBay etc: they may well offer enough reinforcement to a manifold repair (along with epoxy to seal it up) that you might have faith in such a job.
I had to sort a mystery water loss on one of those many years ago. Water and air leaks were quite common, as from memory, it had a plastic manifold that would heat distort. Check it on a flat surface and maybe smooth it on sheets of medium and fine wet and dry. I think the manifold gasket supplied fitted both a 3 and 4 cylinder engine version, you cut it down to size. Access isnt great; but use some silicone sealer on both gasket faces and it shouldn't give any further trouble.
It is definitely preferable to keep Bob under cover if possible, it also means that if he has to be folded away wet you have somewhere to open him up and allow him to dry out thoroughly. Despite being extreme Hubnut, you're making very good progress on Chemmy and you will have her roadworthy before too long. Great video again.
Hi Ian,check internal diameter of broken plastic union.get some steel of copper pipe and use it as reinforcement to attach plastic union off other manifold.
@@Graham_Langley I've done it on daft plastic tank radiators as far back as the 90s.bit of epoxy glue on plastíc ends once copper is in place and repair is air and water tight.
Before you long term store the camper, leave it up a few days to let it dry out (If possible in your car shed). To mouse proof it, store it in your car shed over the winter and leave dyer sheets (like Bounce), cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil and moth balls in and around the area. If you have access to a cat or cats, take some towels and rub them against the cat or cats and take one of the towels and rub it against sections of the camper inside and out. Then take the other towels and leave them in the camper. Mice don't like cats and the scent of them keep mice away.
You would need to bond or seal it in place as it could work loose due to different heat expansion rate between metal and plastic. Careful that nothing can come loose and get drawn into the engine.
Comments on Bob, definitely needs to be inside. apart from all the usual caravan things Carly knows about- removing all soft furnishings etc, on dry sunny days worth just getting Bob in the sun to dry out any odd bits moisture. Get a few dessicant tubs/bags and secrete in any spare spaces, cupboards etc. Wheels off and/or chassis on axle stands, scub off any surface crud, spray joints, hinges. If Bob must be outside have you considered an overall tarp and fibreglass poles to stand it off Bob and circulate air.
Many awesome things are afoot, chaps. Just wanted to say that I appreciate you guys (including the Hublets) and you're my fave channel and that's saying something you know! ;p
I'll second the epoxy/mat repair idea. I "Fixed" the cylinder head on a Honda N360 where the timing chain had worn a hole in it with a lump. It withstood the heat of the engine. Great seeing a bit of floor in the unit!
You need to plastic weld, zip tie and soldering iron use the zip tie as the feed it will repair as good as new, look on RUclips there’s plenty of examples
Drill it, use a rivnut soaked in superglue, let it set, sand it back, screw in a metal hosetail fitting with a penny washer behind it with superglue on the back, let it set, spray it black, jobbed.
How frustrating for you both. Seasoned bodger solution! You can plastic weld with a soldering iron and stab the tip in well to get good weld penetration. You can then use epoxy or glue gun to produce a reinforced fillet weld seal. You also have donor material aplenty to use as alternative weld filler. ABS doesn’t weld nicely and avoid the fumes but it can be done. Tapping for a threaded metal pipe stub is still my preference and the judicious use of a vacuum cleaner would cope with small swarf which being plastic should be non damaging anyway. Good luck.
It’s nice to see progress on the Charade, tip on folding camper, ensure no food stuffs left in when stored, any pipes / wires underneath are tucked away and park it with a gap around it to help prevent mice 🐁 and nothing trailing from the camper to the floor that can act as a mouse or other pest slope into camper.
I’d recommend TVS in Bolton for an awning for Bob, they are well known in the folding camper world for repairs, alterations and custom made jobs, failing that a drive away motor home awning could be used.
You’re very close Ian and Miss Hubnut, don’t lose hope now. You may be able to get a brass pipe cut to size for the vacuum manifold and mold it to the plastic, or perhaps to gently cut one of the other plastic pipes off and gently fit it with an epoxy resin.
Drill out the area of the old barb and thread in a new metal one, they are cheap as chips on eBay or similar. They don't need to be tapped per se because you could use a bit of silicone gasket on it or rubber tape, as long as it's a tight fit it won't go anywhere
Re: winterising Bob, is it worth considering getting one of those battery powered ultrasonic rodent repellers to keep the mice at bay? After an expensive winter when mice ate all the immobiliser wiring behind the dash, my dad used one to great effect in his motorhome.
You should be able to use plasticweld on you broken parts it's available in model shops and sometimes called MEC. It's a solvent that you brush on and sort of welds the plastic together
I know the answer to caravan competition but won’t enter because I’d have to buy a ticket return from Wellington to Birmingham on Emirates which would be a tad expensive although I’ll share this clip with my first cousin Andrew and his wife Elaine who live in Aderley East Yorkshire. Bless you both. Gordon Foxton, Horowhenua, New Zealand
Perhaps you could find some other more convenient source of manifold vacuum - such as a brake servo vacuum hose etc and tap into that. You would then of course have to block off the broken port on the manifold with some sort of sealing plug. A neoprene rubber washer under the head of a largish self tapper has been known to work.
If you're going the brass barb repair and have space to drill it in place, smear some grease on the drill bit flutes and it will catch the plastic swarf. Otherwise you could cut off one of the other barbs and glue it in place using a piece of tube as a sleeve up the centre. I find cutting up an old telescopic car aerial a good source of a fair few different sizes of small diameter tube.👍
Get a brass fitting just a little bigger than the hole. Hit it with a torch until it's hot enough to melt its own hole and jam it in the manifold hole. Apply epoxy to suit if needed....
Well it's bloody annoying having to do a job many times isn't it, but perhaps it might be prudent to do an in depth check of all mouldings that are vital and even strengthen them with a bit of an araldite overlay? Had my tickets for the NEC CCS since August, treat for my Father in Law.
Ian, I've been there with the Corsa C. Fortunately, it was 3rd time lucky for me. Ideally, you need to find another inlet manifold even though it is a pain to have to do the job yet again.
It can be the source of mystery intake air leaks, affecting performance, and coolant leaks. They seem to distort around the fixing bolts due to age and excess heat, eventually causing a poor seal, especially if it's run low on coolant. You need to check the mating face on a flat surface, and smooth it on medium and fine abrasive wet and dry paper. Use silicone sealer on both gasket faces, a decent size flat washer, and thread lock on each fixing to minimise any future distortion.
Consider Loctite 4070 Hybrid Adhesive. I have glued plastic things with this to have the item get broken again NEXT to the original repair.This epoxy type glue is so much better than epoxy.
I really do feel for you two, all the effort and time with what looks like the light at the end of the tunnel ends up being an oncoming trail. These things happen, have several mugs of tea and read the suggestions from the comments. I'm not much help on this unfortunately but you'll get there in the end. Oh and while I remember please don't look to Miss Daisy for donor parts, they belong to her and she should keep em. Take great care peeps.
Another Herculean effort, almost borderline therapy, to overcome. But still both on the same side......Not many relationships would survive these seeds of doom. It's actually quite nice to see a couple who get on, and can walk away intact. I hope this fact is not lost on both of you? ❤️
complain about cold and I am over on this side of the pond, and was sweating whilst mounting a sidecar this weekend... Northern Hemisphere weather is nuts. Oh, the sidecar did get mounted, see my channel for that one, it's typically boring...
Why not just fit a brass barb in place of the broken bit? drill to the correct size and tap the correct thread into it, and a bit of jb weld as a bit extra security.
Use tubing for the fix. Metal tubing, and flexi hydraulic tubing to seal between the two and the original plastic, what's left of it. That's my guess but, its hard to say without seeing the problem close up. Also, remember that epoxy will be softened by heat so, if heat is present it would be unwise to use epoxy. Another solution might be to get the original item/part 3D printed in a suitable material. Making a short video, close up, of the offending problem might also gain you further suggestions. Good luck.
Is Gorilla Glue available in Wales? A friend of mine had a part that was unobtainium, and repaired the old bit with Gorilla glue. Very fast set for the superglue however (Not advised on polypropylene) Rather like J B weld for plastic. Cheers
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
2 part epoxy mixed with some chopped up fibreglass makes an incredibly strong glue repair. Sand up the surfaces around the hole, put masking tape on the rear side of the hole, fill the whole thing in with epoxy / fibreglass mix and let it set up. Then drill through with whatever size you need for the barb fitting and epoxy that in place too. You can use a brass barb in place of the plastic one.
have you used cynoacrylate mixed with baking soda? It also makes very strong bonds.
Nice tip I will give that a go
+1 for this suggestion.
Yes. A repair with a bush, barb or other fitting that is a tight fit in a drilled hole is the way to go.
Also, where adhesive is used, thoroughly degrease first. Probably with brake cleaner or something like that.
@@ianmontgomery7534 Yes I have used this to repair small items, it is however quite brittle and will crack from the parent material sometimes, and I'm also not sure how it would handle oil vapour and hot temperature under an engine bay.
The sooner the engines back together again the sooner we can put an end to this.... Charade.... 👀😀👍🇬🇧!
Ba-dum tish!
bugga, I was going to type that......
@@iandennis7836 I opened the replies expecting to see it 😄.
Mice and rats hate the smell of Jeyes fluid. Mix a strong dilution and spray it on the wheels and legs to stop them climbing up. I used to have a caravan in a barn. I had a mouse problem one winter but after that used the Jeyes fluid and never had any more
I feel your pain.
I once struggled, in the rain, on a muddy driveway, to fit a new radiator to my Reliant Robin van. The job was one of 'those' where everything was seized, nuts had no corners etc, and it took ages, in failing light with a run down bicycle lamp as my only light source. The van was started and there was a tinkling sound. A spanner, vibrated from the heater box, fell on the whirring fan and went......through the new radiator. Not much language was repeatable in polite society from our house for some little while.
Oh no!
Use a hole saw to drill out off the fitting you need off the old manifold which will leave you with a flat bit to help glue it on the new manifold
Exactly what I was going to suggest
Yup, thats what I'd be going for too, maybe plastic weld around the edge depending on how thick the plastic is (experiment one of the scrap manifolds)
Yep, best and strongest solution.
@@StevesMachines he should drop the spare one over to you and you could have a go at that....
Go to a plumbers merchants, there are a multitude of fittings you coul use with minimal fuss.
Never was a Daihatsu Chirade so hard fought for! You deserve the win more than most!
Winterising Bob, undercover in the unit, take off the wheels, support on the levelling jacks, lift jockey wheel. Coat the jacks in a thick coat of grease so the mice cannot climb them (and prevent rust). Place inside Bob loaded bait boxes as used in restaurants, might be an idea to get some rat ones for the unit as well (local pest control company can supply), check them monthly for droppings and the inside of Bob for any bodies. Ensure Bob is spotless inside and no food of any kind left inside , remove any soft furnishings and kitchen stuff (storage containers, pots and pans etc.).
Use a threaded barb with the same size as the hose it goes to, when drilling in the hole for the barb, make sure a bit smaller so the thread can cut in to the plastic with a rubber oring at the end of the thread to seal it.
This!
Was away to say the same, a press in one may also work if bonded in with some good adhesive
Yes a self cutting pipe thread, but then remove it, and refit with strong adhesive on the threads to ensure it stays fixed.
For Ms Hubnut glad to see your royalty and affection for chemmy & Bob ... my wife was taking lesson back in 2020 when you were ... and has now been driving for 2 years she loves it .. and loves her Kia Ceed "Dotty" will be good to see you and chemmy on the road ... you need to do a roadtest/review of living with Chemmy.
I'd tap a hole add add a adaptor to the threaded section and the hose onto that, so convert plastic to metal then to the hose.
Excellent idea/advice Paul, but doing things properly is not the way on this channel; it will end up being glued roughly on and made a hash of! 😄
I feel for you, but I’m sure your perseverance will lead to having it sorted in the end and sort that manifold pressure pipe.
There are "2 part" superglue type adhesives specifically for plastics which work incredibly well. Part one is a tube of "superglue", part two is a marker containing etch primer.
I've glued the kids cheap greasy flexible plastic toys (polyethelene?) and the bond didn't break. The toy did, but across the bond which stayed fixed. Anpther fix and it's solid as a rock again. Highly recommended.
Tip. Primer seems to work with ordinary superglue when the original tube is empty!
Such a brilliant RUclips channel , congrats to all , hubnut for the win
Use JB Weld rather than Araldite it’s stronger, but a mechanical fix has to be the best option.
Peppermint oils and dryer sheets are my go to when putting away for winter. They have to be refreshed periodically but safer around animals then poison. I leave lids and hoods open too, mice like the dark cozy spots.
Great to hear you're going to the show. I'll say what everyone says to us about the show - "hope to see you there' 😊👍
I use cups of Damprid in all my cars it works great keeps the mold away. Just have to check and refill them every 2 or 3 months
We’ve had trailer tents and folding campers for many years when we lived in the UK and never had a problem with mould or mildew. Firstly make sure it is properly dry, and then put a de humidifier in it, put in a bowl, just in case it gets knocked.
While the manifold is off for repair, you may as well try and source a replacement gasket from Greece.
You don't want to be taking the blooming thing off again!
Like the sharing of labour.Hopefully Chemmy will be on the road again.All the best to you all.
Winterising Bob. couple of things you can do. Ensure no food left inside, even crumbs from crisps or biccies. A good hoovering, Vacuum storage bags for bedding and pillows. Any vents which meeces can get access through, pack with wire wool. still allows vents to breathe.
get a brass hose barb threaded on one end ,drill out broken barb, tap thread the hole ,install the brass one ,better chance of not breaking back off like if you try to glue old one back on
Fix the old manifold with the metal fitting as suggested and then put that one back on.
Its probably already been mentioned but Id take the manifold off and fit brass barbs to all the vacuum pipes as they seem prone to breaking, then get some thick gasket material and make up a gasket.
Araldite isn't the best solution for a hot engine bay, however, JB Weld is. I used the latter to glue together a shortened aluminium water fitting on an NA MX5 about 15 years ago and it's still intact and showing no sign of deterioration. Would recommend using the normal formula rather than the 1 minute stuff. They also make a plastic bonder but as I haven't used that yet I don't know how it performs. Good luck.
Ian. Snapped off pipe. Tap a thread into the remaining hole. Then take an piece aluminium or copper pipe and tap same thread onto it. Coat thtead with epoxy and screw into tapped hole. Done this many times works a treat and better than original plastic.
Suggested that a few videos back. It was dismissed due to the fear that any swarf in the inlet would damage the engine. With the manifold off that's not going to happen.
Enjoy the NEC guys. It's a fantastic show.
If you ever get 5 Daihatsu cars, you would become a Daihatsu pimp, accoring to Welsh numbers.
Time for a rotten Hubnut Copen
We are also going to the camping, caravan and motorhome show. We're going on the Sunday though hoping to grab a last day bargain. Love the channel...... Professional fumbling at its best. 👍😄
My Conway folding camper lived outside constantly and I never had an issue with damp or mice. As long as the canvas was dry when you last packed it away and you haven't left any food in it, you shouldn't have any issues. Only thing I will suggest is leave the handbrake off in the same way you do with your cars when nut using them to stop it siezing.
Great little tinkering video Guys, hopefully you can get the issue sorted with Chemmy, it must gutting to be so close and then it goes one step back!
A really useful tool, for one who likes to bodge upon the cars, is one of those things that inserts hot staples. It heats them up a bit like how an instant solder gun heats up the tip by putting electric current through it. I've used these staples for repairs to many plastic parts: bumper, undertray, headlight mountings, hated vacuum cleaner. You name it, if it's made of thermoplastic polymer and sufficiently substantial you can stick these things in. Have a look at them on eBay etc: they may well offer enough reinforcement to a manifold repair (along with epoxy to seal it up) that you might have faith in such a job.
A kit on eBay is about 15 or 20 quid. Search for hot staple.
Various options have already been given, a hose pillar / threaded pillar is the most solid solution, Tim or Lewis can certainly assemble it for you.
Keep going! You will get there!
I had to sort a mystery water loss on one of those many years ago. Water and air leaks were quite common, as from memory, it had a plastic manifold that would heat distort. Check it on a flat surface and maybe smooth it on sheets of medium and fine wet and dry. I think the manifold gasket supplied fitted both a 3 and 4 cylinder engine version, you cut it down to size. Access isnt great; but use some silicone sealer on both gasket faces and it shouldn't give any further trouble.
My friends Dad told me years ago when you have 4 wheels you are always got some troubles. But I'm sure you will get it sorted.
It is definitely preferable to keep Bob under cover if possible, it also means that if he has to be folded away wet you have somewhere to open him up and allow him to dry out thoroughly. Despite being extreme Hubnut, you're making very good progress on Chemmy and you will have her roadworthy before too long. Great video again.
Hi Ian,check internal diameter of broken plastic union.get some steel of copper pipe and use it as reinforcement to attach plastic union off other manifold.
That would work.
@@Graham_Langley I've done it on daft plastic tank radiators as far back as the 90s.bit of epoxy glue on plastíc ends once copper is in place and repair is air and water tight.
Before you long term store the camper, leave it up a few days to let it dry out (If possible in your car shed). To mouse proof it, store it in your car shed over the winter and leave dyer sheets (like Bounce), cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil and moth balls in and around the area. If you have access to a cat or cats, take some towels and rub them against the cat or cats and take one of the towels and rub it against sections of the camper inside and out. Then take the other towels and leave them in the camper. Mice don't like cats and the scent of them keep mice away.
might be worth trying a brass screw in pipe fitting
That's what I also suggested.
You would need to bond or seal it in place as it could work loose due to different heat expansion rate between metal and plastic. Careful that nothing can come loose and get drawn into the engine.
Comments on Bob, definitely needs to be inside. apart from all the usual caravan things Carly knows about- removing all soft furnishings etc, on dry sunny days worth just getting Bob in the sun to dry out any odd bits moisture. Get a few dessicant tubs/bags and secrete in any spare spaces, cupboards etc. Wheels off and/or chassis on axle stands, scub off any surface crud, spray joints, hinges. If Bob must be outside have you considered an overall tarp and fibreglass poles to stand it off Bob and circulate air.
Many awesome things are afoot, chaps. Just wanted to say that I appreciate you guys (including the Hublets) and you're my fave channel and that's saying something you know! ;p
I'll second the epoxy/mat repair idea. I "Fixed" the cylinder head on a Honda N360 where the timing chain had worn a hole in it with a lump. It withstood the heat of the engine.
Great seeing a bit of floor in the unit!
You need to plastic weld, zip tie and soldering iron use the zip tie as the feed it will repair as good as new, look on RUclips there’s plenty of examples
Drill it, use a rivnut soaked in superglue, let it set, sand it back, screw in a metal hosetail fitting with a penny washer behind it with superglue on the back, let it set, spray it black, jobbed.
Or just post it here and I'll do it...
Cheers Mr Kitch. I think we've got it in hand... Oh. I'm coming to Hampshire in Betty tomorrow. You'd better lock up...
Dear I have this daihatsu charade and I watched your all video regarding charade👍👍
How frustrating for you both. Seasoned bodger solution! You can plastic weld with a soldering iron and stab the tip in well to get good weld penetration. You can then use epoxy or glue gun to produce a reinforced fillet weld seal. You also have donor material aplenty to use as alternative weld filler. ABS doesn’t weld nicely and avoid the fumes but it can be done.
Tapping for a threaded metal pipe stub is still my preference and the judicious use of a vacuum cleaner would cope with small swarf which being plastic should be non damaging anyway. Good luck.
Farewell, dear Oltcit, with your crazily charming binnacle and Visa-esque styling. You will be missed by at least this Hubnutter.
We had a dandy which was a knight mare in way of getting official awning so just used a driveaway awning which can be used alone and worked perfectly
what a charade you are making of this engine work :)
On Bob it may be best to leave it mostly or all erected to allow it dry throughout the winter. This should prevent mould formation.
It’s nice to see progress on the Charade, tip on folding camper, ensure no food stuffs left in when stored, any pipes / wires underneath are tucked away and park it with a gap around it to help prevent mice 🐁 and nothing trailing from the camper to the floor that can act as a mouse or other pest slope into camper.
what you need to do is find some thin wall tube that is a tight fit in the hole which will provide mechanical support to the repair
Greece is the word, it’s got groove, it’s got meaning and Daihatsu spares,apparently. 🇬🇷
threaded hose barb with a splash of jb weld rtv on the threads to seal any gaps would fix that, cheap enough on ebay
Sent off for the competition 👍👌
I’d recommend TVS in Bolton for an awning for Bob, they are well known in the folding camper world for repairs, alterations and custom made jobs, failing that a drive away motor home awning could be used.
Anyone suggest plastic weld, with a soldering iron and some zip-ties as filler rod? You have a manifold off the car, take it to a pro to repair?
You make me feel glad I have a Betty-esque engine bay. Although, compared to a 1970's Falcon, it's incredibly crowded.
You’re very close Ian and Miss Hubnut, don’t lose hope now. You may be able to get a brass pipe cut to size for the vacuum manifold and mold it to the plastic, or perhaps to gently cut one of the other plastic pipes off and gently fit it with an epoxy resin.
Some good idea's on here about a fix for the inlet manifold Mr HubNut, I'd concentrate on those than just a glue fix alone.
Drill out the area of the old barb and thread in a new metal one, they are cheap as chips on eBay or similar. They don't need to be tapped per se because you could use a bit of silicone gasket on it or rubber tape, as long as it's a tight fit it won't go anywhere
possibly heat it up and it'll cut its own thread as you insert it......or maybe try plastic welding, it's worked for me often enough......
ps try plastic welding on the worst manifold first.......
Re: winterising Bob, is it worth considering getting one of those battery powered ultrasonic rodent repellers to keep the mice at bay? After an expensive winter when mice ate all the immobiliser wiring behind the dash, my dad used one to great effect in his motorhome.
Tan y groes was where I got all my used spares from when I lived near Aberporth.
You should be able to use plasticweld on you broken parts it's available in model shops and sometimes called MEC. It's a solvent that you brush on and sort of welds the plastic together
I know the answer to caravan competition but won’t enter because I’d have to buy a ticket return from Wellington to Birmingham on Emirates which would be a tad expensive although I’ll share this clip with my first cousin Andrew and his wife Elaine who live in Aderley East Yorkshire. Bless you both. Gordon Foxton, Horowhenua, New Zealand
Perhaps you could find some other more convenient source of manifold vacuum - such as a brake servo vacuum hose etc and tap into that. You would then of course have to block off the broken port on the manifold with some sort of sealing plug. A neoprene rubber washer under the head of a largish self tapper has been known to work.
If you're going the brass barb repair and have space to drill it in place, smear some grease on the drill bit flutes and it will catch the plastic swarf. Otherwise you could cut off one of the other barbs and glue it in place using a piece of tube as a sleeve up the centre. I find cutting up an old telescopic car aerial a good source of a fair few different sizes of small diameter tube.👍
drill out & glue a section of metal/plastic pipe in would be my suggestion, maybe the end some old fuel line or similar
Get a brass fitting just a little bigger than the hole. Hit it with a torch until it's hot enough to melt its own hole and jam it in the manifold hole. Apply epoxy to suit if needed....
Plastic inlet manifolds and headlight lenses are a crime against humanity.
Well it's bloody annoying having to do a job many times isn't it, but perhaps it might be prudent to do an in depth check of all mouldings that are vital and even strengthen them with a bit of an araldite overlay?
Had my tickets for the NEC CCS since August, treat for my Father in Law.
Loving your channel even more now Miss Hub Nut is a proper co presenter. Just as Hub Nutty as you sir! 😅❤
Ian, I've been there with the Corsa C. Fortunately, it was 3rd time lucky for me. Ideally, you need to find another inlet manifold even though it is a pain to have to do the job yet again.
No he's fixing this one!
It can be the source of mystery intake air leaks, affecting performance, and coolant leaks. They seem to distort around the fixing bolts due to age and excess heat, eventually causing a poor seal, especially if it's run low on coolant. You need to check the mating face on a flat surface, and smooth it on medium and fine abrasive wet and dry paper. Use silicone sealer on both gasket faces, a decent size flat washer, and thread lock on each fixing to minimise any future distortion.
Steel wool or stainless pan scourers in the floor vents will help keep mice out of Bob. As for the rest of the problems I'm pretty clueless.
Hi Ian and Mrs Hubnut cant you take the old manifold already off and screw in some threaded tube in the manifold.then aradite that in place?
Sacrifice a soldering tip & soften the plastic enough to allow you to screw in a hose tail fitting
I'd guess Chemmys definitely a Keeper after all this effort and faffing about ! 👍 🏁 ☺
Just a thought but the magic wands to heat up and melt cracks in bumpers might work?
Plastic weld it with the metal bits you basically burn into the plastic, then seal around it to make sure it’s air tight
Absolutely brilliant video Ian Miss hubnut 👍you to are brilliant together I'm sure you can fix shemmy brilliant
Consider Loctite 4070 Hybrid Adhesive. I have glued plastic things with this to have the item get broken again NEXT to the original repair.This epoxy type glue is so much better than epoxy.
Swearing on Hubnut, who’d of thought 😂
Another great video 👍🏻
So sorry that Chemmy broke you’ll get there soon don’t worry! How are the hublets hope there well!
another great video has always Ian and miss hubnut and hublets and hubmutts 👍
I really do feel for you two, all the effort and time with what looks like the light at the end of the tunnel ends up being an oncoming trail. These things happen, have several mugs of tea and read the suggestions from the comments. I'm not much help on this unfortunately but you'll get there in the end. Oh and while I remember please don't look to Miss Daisy for donor parts, they belong to her and she should keep em. Take great care peeps.
Liking how you talk to the wires 🤣🤣
Pre watershed tinkering would be great! Love the content.
Do they shrink wrap boats in wales? If so, you could do that to the camper trailer to wunterize.
Another Herculean effort, almost borderline therapy, to overcome.
But still both on the same side......Not many relationships would survive these seeds of doom.
It's actually quite nice to see a couple who get on, and can walk away intact.
I hope this fact is not lost on both of you? ❤️
Drill and tap a hole then use externally threaded tube to remake a new manifold pressure pipe?Obvs need the manifold off again though.
drilling and fitting a screw in brass fitting is the best option
complain about cold and I am over on this side of the pond, and was sweating whilst mounting a sidecar this weekend... Northern Hemisphere weather is nuts.
Oh, the sidecar did get mounted, see my channel for that one, it's typically boring...
Try a product called Q bond works wonders on broken plastic fixing works on radiatoors too
Another enjoyable video really enjoy the tinkering ones well done ✔️✔️
Jb weld excellent stuff I’d recommend that ❤
Why not just fit a brass barb in place of the broken bit? drill to the correct size and tap the correct thread into it, and a bit of jb weld as a bit extra security.
I suggested that...
Use tubing for the fix. Metal tubing, and flexi hydraulic tubing to seal between the two and the original plastic, what's left of it. That's my guess but, its hard to say without seeing the problem close up.
Also, remember that epoxy will be softened by heat so, if heat is present it would be unwise to use epoxy.
Another solution might be to get the original item/part 3D printed in a suitable material.
Making a short video, close up, of the offending problem might also gain you further suggestions.
Good luck.
Is Gorilla Glue available in Wales? A friend of mine had a part that was unobtainium, and repaired the old bit with Gorilla glue. Very fast set for the superglue however (Not advised on polypropylene) Rather like J B weld for plastic. Cheers