An index for this video: 0:00 - 2:47 Removing the gong, hands, bezel, dial, and the movement. 2:47 - 6:24 Examining damage. Rathbun bushings, broken mainspring, prick punched bushings, worn pivot holes. 6:24 - 8:07 After initial cleaning. Identifying the movement, examining more damage, identifying steel plates. 8:07 - 9:29 Letting down the mainspring. 9:29 - 11:53 Disassembling the movement, up to separating the plates. 11:53 - 24:17 Removing the levers and wheels, explaining their purpose. More examination for damage. 24:17 - 30:32 Checking for worn pivot holes in the cleaned movement. 30:32 - 34:17 Polishing the pivots. 34:17 - 42:44 Making a custom bushing using a lathe. 42:44 - 48:43 Installing the great wheels' new bushings. 48:43 - 49:24 Testing the great wheels' new bushings. 49:24 - 53:34 Measuring the pivots for new, standard bushings. 53:34 - 55:57 Reaming holes for the bushings. 55:57 - 59:00 Installing the new bushings. 59:00 - 1:04:34 An old bushing fell out during reaming. Examining the old bushings in detail. 1:04:34 - 1:09:42 Making custom bushings on the lathe. 1:09:42 - 1:11:39 Fitting the new bushing. Chamfering an oil well into it. 1:11:39 - 1:16:10 Testing the new bushings. 1:16:10 - 1:18:06 The reassembled movement. 1:18:06 - 1:22:18 Oiling the movement. 1:22:18 - 1:25:11 Testing the fully repaired, running movement.
This is my clock and you did an outstanding job! This clock had not ran in 40 years. It had been sitting in a box ignored. I had never heard it tick or strike the hour or half hour. It was so exciting to see and hear it for the first time. A family heirloom brought back to life. Thank you ........
Loved your video, you describe things beautifully. I am very, very new to this 'hobby', and it will be just a hobby for me. I am just about to undertake my first little project of taking apart the movement of a Smiths Enfield mantel clock, to inspect, clean it, and hopefully get it back together again! It's not got the Westminster chimes so I haven't got that complication to worry about. The reading I've done so far, and the videos I've watched on RUclips, has really brought it home to me the time and skill that is involved in doing the work that you are undertaking in this video on this clock. I'm sure some people who bring clocks in for repair to people who are trying to earn a living by it just don't realise this. Which is why they gasp when told what the repair may cost. Once again, great video, and regards from the U.K.
Thank you. A good tip for someone just beginning is to carefully study the movement before disassembly and to take multiple digital images off all disassembly steps. Sure helps the memory when reassembling. Best wishes from Genoa, Illinois.
@@dperry428 Yes, thanks for that. I've already taken photos of the movement from different angles and will jot down notes and take other pics as I go along.
This was cool to watch!! My husband gifted me a 1920 Gilbert and it is beautiful and sounds beautiful. The original sticker on the inside door states the clock was guaranteed for 1 year! They sure don't make things like they used to. Yesterday was the first time we unboxed and set the clock. It is running a little fast. But I think it is because I am not used to the correct tick tock pattern so I just tried to level it again to get the correct pattern. Hopefully, I will get acquire the ear for it and it will keep time accurately. Anyway thanks for taking the time to make videos much appreciated.
See that little hole at the number 12? That's where you adjust the speed of the clock. Your key should have two ends; one for winding and a smaller end for adjusting the time. Turning adjuster clockwise will speed up the clock, counterclockwise will slow it. Keep in mind, though , that the accuracy of the clock is only a couple minutes a week. When the spring is fully wound, it has more power and the clock will run slower. As the spring unwinds, the clock will run faster. As far as leveling, you are correct that the "tick-tock" should be even. You can adjust that by slightly bending the brass wire, called the crutch, that pushes the suspension wire on which the pendulum is hung. Bending that wire slightly in one direction or the other will affect the "tick-tock", called the beat of the clock.
My God, I think that I may have stumbled across the most interesting video I have ever seen. At first I thought what a mess. He is going to lose parts on that work bench ! But then I realized that you knew what you were doing and I just had to watch. You see , I myself had a very brief experience with watch/clock repair. I note that you said that your age is a little behind min but you may still be able to remember. I was about nine or ten when I received a Roy Rogers wrist watch for my birthday. In those days children's stuff was quite high quality if it was not made in Japan. My wrist watch had a genuine tooled leather band. The buckle was an engraved nickle/silver stirrup. With a matching case. Well, I got to wondering , what makes it work ? So, I took off the back. Can't see much of anything. The edges of some wheels and that was all . I need to see more. I don't know how I found anything that small but I started to remove the screws from the inside back. And then as I removed the last screw, everything inside went sproing and instant disaster ! I tried for the longest time to put everything back inside but it was hopeless. I had ruined my special watch . And that was the end of my clock repair career. I did learn a valuable lesson that day which has stood me in good stead for the rest of my life. And that is , know how or at least have a pretty good idea of how to put something back together BEFORE you take it apart.
Thus, you learned the hard way that the first thing to do when repairing a watch or clock is to let down the spring. In a clock, the spring is strong enough to cause real damage to not only the clock parts, but to the person taking it apart. I'm 74 and started repairing clocks at 25, so very soon it will be 50 years. It's very satisfying to bring back a clock that has seen better days and repairing them is what I do in the winter when it's too cold to work in the yard. And, yes, I remember the days of going to Saturday morning shows at the theater to watch Roy Rodgers and Dale Evans, Gene Autry, Hopalong Cassidy, Red Ryder, and the Durango Kid. I always wanted a Mickey Mouse watch, but ended up with Porky Pig. Thanks for the interesting story
I have changed springs on maybe eight of these clocks but this Gilbert clock scared me. Your video was helpful. Your comment at 1:17 was not encouraging. Maybe I could add this: I did the strike side first and had a heck of a time with it. I finally got it. I put a twisty tie between the 3rd and 4th wheel. I fussed over the C clamps to make sure I would not be fighting them. I put two small but strong magnets on the bottom (It is steel). I added the time train and it went together. I was astonished. The last stop adjustment had to be redone, but it was no problem. The takeaway might be that I completely understand these American kitchen clocks and may have upped my certification level. (You are better than I.) thanks for the video.
G'day I have done a correspondence course sometime ago I really love these old clocks and you sir are a master! How you went about repairing the bushes and pivots was very sympathetic to the old nature of the clock and it was good how you showed what a mess someone did to that old piece. It turned out a truly beautiful time piece once you finished it. Thank you for videoing how you went about it I know that it's not easy filming something like you did. I have sub and I look forward to watching you repair another clock. Kind regards John Kinnane Tasmania Australia
Have you checked out the others? ruclips.net/video/JcUq4tSj98I/видео.html ruclips.net/video/kuzm97fhkkk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/QEgUWsrASGk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/b_RxfNN6vX4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/pCl3hkGTQIY/видео.html I've repaired clocks as a hobby since 1968
I stumbled across your chain link fence turned stone wall videos... my jaw hit the ground when I saw the finished product, and here again, you've astounded me with your "hobby"! You are very talented, and I just thank you for sharing all these videos :-) I happened to love hearing the Cuckoo in the background - I have two that I do not know if they work, but if they don't, you can bet I'm going to take them apart and see what may be wrong! They have been in storage b/c I have been moving quite regularly. I'm looking forward to putting down real roots and digging out the family heirlooms :-)
Hard to make any money with the amount of time it takes to rebuild a clock movement, repair cost are typically more than the clock is worth. Also when you are using an $800.00 lathe, $600.00 ultrasonic cleaner, $250.00 spring winder and numerous hand tools, chemicals, etc and a lot of hours to do it right. It is amazing just what having the proper equipment cost. Good Video
I'm not interested in making money; this is my hobby. One could say the same about someone who has woodworking as a hobby. Hard to make money with $25000 worth of woodworking machinery and tools. Hobbies are different from businesses. They are done for the sheer joy of it. Something done to change the humdrum of making a living. I was a science teacher and clock repair my diversion from stress. I charge people for material costs and then ask they make a donation to the local food pantry. I take joy in that and in saving clocks that otherwise would never run again. This particular clock belongs to a friend who, like myself, does not have hundreds of dollars to spend on a clock that has been sitting in a closet for 40 years. Likely, the clock would have remained in the closet until she passed. Then, after the funeral, the next generation would likely put it in the dumpster with all the other "trash" they didn't want and another clock would be lost forever. Now, she can enjoy her working clock for the years she has left, I can take joy in in her joy, and the clock will likely be treasured by her children rather than rotting in a landfill, at least for now. Yes, it is amazing what having the proper equipment costs, but the same could be said for ANY hobby. Fishing boats and gear aren't cheap, nor are properly-fitted golf clubs. For most of the 50 years I've been repairing clocks, I did without the new Sherline lathe and used an outsized 1930's South Bend lathe. I did without the ultrasonic cleaner and scrubbed each part with a brush in a bowl. I did without the nice spring winder and worked dangerous springs with hefty leather gloves. RUclips ads have provided the new stuff. I'll be 75 years old in a couple weeks, I'm retired and rejoice in not having to make money in my hobby, but, for a while, have the time to work with time.
dperry428 Very true, in my opinion. I've often experienced sticker shock when shopping for professional grade tools. Even when making a tool in the shop, the costs can sometimes run high.
WOW...THOUGHT I WOULD CHECK IN WITH THE MOST AMAZING GUY ON THE INTERNET.. ..you fence project still INSPIRES ME. AND ONCE AGAIN I AM ASTOUNDED. let me tell u. .... I tried making automata and this isn't easy if you don't understand this stuff at all. IT MIGHT AS WELL BE ADVANCED ALGEBRA CLOCK WORK IS IMPRESSIVE AGAIN. I bought a walnut grandfather clock a guy was making. he has it all done but the door and thr clock part. it came with all sorts of clock looking parts but I havent a clue. I paid 3.00 tho!!!! it's on my list..
Thank you for the kind comments. I've been collecting and repairing old clocks since 1968. I thought I'd share what I do in the winter when I can't be outside messing with concrete. The clock videos were really made for the people whose clocks I repaired so they could see what I did to them to make them work. I thought they might be informative, but, you watch, there will be people commenting about them as to what a horrible job I did fixing these clocks.
Not a horrible job by a long shot. This clock had been "patched up" before as we found out and poorly too. It's running great now, keeps time, sounds and looks beautiful. A pure pleasure to have.
I knew nothing of clockworks and have never touched one, but I watched this whole fascinating video. Ironically, the clock repair fascinated me while the constantly ticking clock in the background annoyed me!
Then you wouldn't like being in my house. I've been collecting and repairing clocks since 1968 and there are at least half-a-dozen clocks running at any given time. It doesn't take long before the ticking and chiming aren't even noticed.
Thanks for the video! I've got a 1906 Gilbert 8 day that I'm working on - keeps time OK, but the striking side seems to bind on the lever / tooth and I think it is the lever warning not catching. Your video gave me some better views of the guts though!
Sounds like your talking about the lever that drops into the slots on the count wheel. It is on the same arbor as the lever that catches the pin on the warning wheel. If it catches on the edge of a deep slot, the lever that catches the warning lever will not drop in front of the warning pin. Bend the lever with the flattened end that drop into the slots between teeth on the count wheel so that it does not catch.
@@dperry428 is there a spring that pulled the lever that catches the warning wheel? It seems to always be "dropped" away. I see where it rides the minute wheel which causes it the arbor to raise and trigger the bell.
No, there is no spring to work the lever. There are two levers that are involved in the strike sequence. The first has a piece that is lifted by the cam on the minute shaft. That piece is on an arbor that also has an extension that moves up to catch the warning pin when the pin gets released. On that same arbor is another L-shaped extension that lifts the count wheel lever and warning lever and the extension on the slotted cam on the second wheel to release the warning pin from its stop position so it can rotate half a turn to the extension on the first lever. When the piece that rides the cam on the minute shaft falls at the hour, the warning pin is released and the strike begins. These sets of levers can get bent by overzealous and unknowledgeable repair people so that the sequence doesn't work right. Understanding exactly how it works will allow you to get things in the right position. Also, if the movement has not been reassembled correctly, all the bending in the world won't help. When the strike side is put back between the plates, the count wheel lever should be in a deep slot on the count wheel, the lever that rides the cam on the second wheel should be in the slot (or lower flat area) of the cam, and the stop lever should be holding the warning pin. That is, the warning pin on the warning wheel should be toward the top edge of the movement. If those positions are not correct, the stop lever may miss the warning pin and the strike will not stop.
The old bushing was knocked out by striking a flat-end stake with a small hammer, supporting the plate on either side of the bushing with staking anvils. The new one was turned on the lathe to be a tight friction fit, tapped into the hole and then the inside edge of the bushing planished with the hammer to essentially slightly rivet it in place.
Can you give me a source for parts? Specifically the main spring? I have a mantle clock I want to repair a broken spring on the strike side. Thanks for your videos giving me confidence to give a try at repairing a clock.
The "20" stamped right below the center wheel shaft (that the hands fit on - not sure of definition) is the year of manufacture, so 1920 for this one. Question: I have the same movement and was wondering about those pivot holes. Are there bushings or some sort of insert at 5:00 or is that just a stamping relief at the pivot holes making them look like a separate piece from the front and back plates?
"The "20" stamped right below the center wheel shaft (that the hands fit on - not sure of definition) is the year of manufacture, so 1920 for this one" Yep! That's what I said in the video. The plates of this movement are steel, plated with nickel. The pivots, also of steel, run in brass bushings inserted into the plates. They are, indeed, separate from the plate. For various engineering reasons, a rotating shaft and its bearing surface should not be of the same material. The bearing surface (bushing) is softer than the rotating journal. It appears that in the manufacturing process, the bushings got plated with nickel along with the plates, but they are, indeed, brass. When brass plates are used, it is common practice for the pivot holes to be simple holes drill into the plates.
@@dperry428 Wow, thanks for that perfect explanation of the nickel over the steel plate! Sorry about the date comment: I was responding more to another commenter who asked about the date.
I like the videos where you show all the steps - very useful to us beginners. Shame you skipped the bit (around 42mins) where you push out the old bush and fit the new one.
I'll try better next time. Sometimes, these videos can get so long that I wonder if anyone will watch them. Actually, this was the first one I posted about clocks and it was done mostly for the person I was fixing it for and then decided to post it.
I noticed in this video that you are using PCV Pipe to hold you movement while you work in it. It looks to be 3” in diameter by 5” in height. Please let me know what the actual dimensions are. Thanks. You’re videos are very informative.
It doesn't matter what you use. The purpose is to raise the movement so that the hour and minute tubes that extend out from the front of the movement are suspended. I use whatever I have available. In this case, it is likely a 3" PVC connector. A wide-mouth plastic jar would work equally well.
Hello.. I have a clock movement with 503 written on it and thats it. Do you know what this movement is? The movement is round with a single bell strike. This movement came out of a mantle clock similar to what your working on in this video.
Thank you for sharing. It looks like you gave the assembled movement a bath before disassembling. If so, was that in an ultrosonic? What type of solution did you use? Thanks!
I don't remember whether this was done in with the ultrasonic cleaner. I only recently got one. Initially, the clock is simply washed down, either by hand or with the help of the ultrasonic machine, rinsed and dried with a hair dryer. Then it is taken apart and the individual pieces cleaned. I use a standard clock cleaning solution available from clock supply houses like Timesavers. You can make your own with Dawn dishwashing soap, ammonia and Murphy's Oil Soap. Some say to also add acetone, but I don't recommend that.
A bit of an odd question, but where can I find those emery sticks you are using? I cannot seem to locate them. Thank you for your time and wonderful videos, they are so very helpful. Great work! M
What backs are you talking about? The doors on the back of the case? You need to be more specific. If you mean the metal door on the back of the case, some were brass and some were steel and, perhaps, even tin. Some were even brass plated steel. I know of none that were bronze. As far as bezels and dials, it depends on what is wrong with them. Dials can be porcelain, painted metal or just glued-on paper. Again, it depends on what the problem is. Sometimes, it's just a matter of gluing on a new paper dial, or it may be a matter of repainting the dial numerals with India ink. Most bezel problems are from hinges that have been broken off and have to be soldered back on.
@@MrLost38 It may be steel or even nickel-plated brass. Use a magnet and see if it sticks to the plate. If it does, it's steel; if not, it's likely nickel-plated brass. You'll want to leave it original.
Have you ever had to place bushings in and Redhill both plates together ti create new locations for both ends of a wheel? Like if, the holes were so poorly aligned from former work that the true location of the pivots are not correctly located in the old bushings? Is there ever a reason to lay both plates together and re drill them together to relocate a TRUE location for a wheel? Did that make ant sense?
Redhill? There are times when a rebushed hole was not done correctly. That has happened a few times. Never had both holes off. If one is off, I use the good side as reference to relocate the bad side. Most times, the plates can't be put together because of riveted pieces. I put layout dye on the area of the bad pivot, use a divider to measure distances on the good plate from adjacent holes to the good hole and then scribe those distances on the other plate from the adjacent holes. Where the scribes lines intersect is the true center of the defective hole. Otherwise, the way to relocate badly placed holes is to use a depthing tool to determine distances between gears and mark the plates. Again, intersecting lines show the center for the pivot holes. It can get tedious.
A clock that was built in 1920 and ran at least a couple of decades without servicing, I wouldn't call poor quality. These clocks were not meant to be high quality clocks at the time. Likely your Ansonia clocks also ran for decades without proper maintenance. Tell me what country makes inexpensive clocks that are of higher quality that don't show this kind of wear when neglected to decades. I've fixed many German movements that show this kind of wear and worse.
dperry428 I colect old clock's I consider hi quality French clocks Japy Feres or gold medal Martin I have run for 36 years in my home widout any service I also own a rare large cuckoo clock large bird moving on nest automaton beautiful working conditions , but I have it working only on special occasions. Guy's that fix clocks they become very rare to find in my country ( I need a suspension for a Japy french mantel clock i search everywhere in Romania and I can't find ) I like your videos and I subscribed
Yes, French Japy Feres clocks are high quality clocks with thick brass plates but, they were NOT inexpensive clocks when they were made nor are they inexpensive now. Again, I ask you to name one other country that made INEXPENSIVE clocks of higher quality than the old mass-produced American clocks. Remember that many, if not most Connecticut clock makers, sold their product for a dollar or two. Is that what French clocks sold for? For suspension springs, try this company: timesavers.com/search.html?q=french+clock+suspension+spring They also ship internationally: timesavers.com/p-9572-shipping-discount-information.html
Is there any chance that you would consider a repair of a Regula clock movement (not a cuckoo movement) I am 80 years old and have had to discontinue my repair efforts due to a loss of feeling in my fingers. I would be willing to contribute any amount you suggest to whatever charity you recommend. If you would consider this, I will send photos if you need them. Thanks for any consideration.
I'm sorry, but I can't take on any more until I catch up with those I still have to do. I'm also 80 and just don't work as fast or as long as I used to. I'm also afraid to have someone send me a clock that I'm not able to get to right away.
hi I have an old mantel clock that works for 3 minutes and then it stops. It was not working for a long time because it was in a storehouse .PLEASE tell me what s the matter with it.
First, it likely needs cleaned and oiled. It may also have worn pivot holes (the holes in the plate in which the gears run). A clock that is not excessively worn and still is clean enough to run, might simply not be level or what is called "out of beat". Here is a short video that explains setting the beat of a clock. ruclips.net/video/XgnvYfPVedY/видео.html There can be other things that will prevent a clock running, such as a weak mainspring, but all such repairs, including proper cleaning and oiling require dismantling the movement as was done in my video,
Glad you edited your comment as your original comment was dead wrong. Even the patent date of April 28, 1896 is deceiving. That patent is for a specific PART of the movement, the method to control the length of the pendulum and thus timekeeping. Steel plates were used between 1900 and 1920. 1920 is also when this style clock went out of production and the lack of pillars on the front indicates this clock was likely manufactured using up existing and outdated inventory. The approximate date of purchase by the owner's relative is also consistent with a 1920 date. The "20" stamped on the movement plate is also consistent with the method of dating the movement itself, if not the assemblage of the entire clock. There is much more to dating a clock than looking at a patent date. In this case the patent doesn't even apply to the movement, but to a small part on the movement.
When I make these videos, they are meant mostly for the people who own the clocks so they can see what was done with them. When I'm working on them, I'm concentrating on the work, not on the videography.
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An index for this video:
0:00 - 2:47 Removing the gong, hands, bezel, dial, and the movement.
2:47 - 6:24 Examining damage. Rathbun bushings, broken mainspring, prick punched bushings, worn pivot holes.
6:24 - 8:07 After initial cleaning. Identifying the movement, examining more damage, identifying steel plates.
8:07 - 9:29 Letting down the mainspring.
9:29 - 11:53 Disassembling the movement, up to separating the plates.
11:53 - 24:17 Removing the levers and wheels, explaining their purpose. More examination for damage.
24:17 - 30:32 Checking for worn pivot holes in the cleaned movement.
30:32 - 34:17 Polishing the pivots.
34:17 - 42:44 Making a custom bushing using a lathe.
42:44 - 48:43 Installing the great wheels' new bushings.
48:43 - 49:24 Testing the great wheels' new bushings.
49:24 - 53:34 Measuring the pivots for new, standard bushings.
53:34 - 55:57 Reaming holes for the bushings.
55:57 - 59:00 Installing the new bushings.
59:00 - 1:04:34 An old bushing fell out during reaming. Examining the old bushings in detail.
1:04:34 - 1:09:42 Making custom bushings on the lathe.
1:09:42 - 1:11:39 Fitting the new bushing. Chamfering an oil well into it.
1:11:39 - 1:16:10 Testing the new bushings.
1:16:10 - 1:18:06 The reassembled movement.
1:18:06 - 1:22:18 Oiling the movement.
1:22:18 - 1:25:11 Testing the fully repaired, running movement.
This is my clock and you did an outstanding job! This clock had not ran in 40 years. It had been sitting in a box ignored. I had never heard it tick or strike the hour or half hour. It was so exciting to see and hear it for the first time. A family heirloom brought back to life. Thank you ........
You're welcome. So glad it survived the trip back to your house. May it give you pleasure for years to come.
Great video. One of the best I've seen. Great job of explaining disassembly and repair. Thanks for taking time to record and post this.
Loved your video, you describe things beautifully. I am very, very new to this 'hobby', and it will be just a hobby for me. I am just about to undertake my first little project of taking apart the movement of a Smiths Enfield mantel clock, to inspect, clean it, and hopefully get it back together again! It's not got the Westminster chimes so I haven't got that complication to worry about. The reading I've done so far, and the videos I've watched on RUclips, has really brought it home to me the time and skill that is involved in doing the work that you are undertaking in this video on this clock.
I'm sure some people who bring clocks in for repair to people who are trying to earn a living by it just don't realise this. Which is why they gasp when told what the repair may cost. Once again, great video, and regards from the U.K.
Thank you. A good tip for someone just beginning is to carefully study the movement before disassembly and to take multiple digital images off all disassembly steps. Sure helps the memory when reassembling. Best wishes from Genoa, Illinois.
@@dperry428 Yes, thanks for that. I've already taken photos of the movement from different angles and will jot down notes and take other pics as I go along.
How did you get on?
Дякую вам за працю, хай щастить,ви маєте рацію
This was cool to watch!! My husband gifted me a 1920 Gilbert and it is beautiful and sounds beautiful. The original sticker on the inside door states the clock was guaranteed for 1 year! They sure don't make things like they used to. Yesterday was the first time we unboxed and set the clock. It is running a little fast. But I think it is because I am not used to the correct tick tock pattern so I just tried to level it again to get the correct pattern. Hopefully, I will get acquire the ear for it and it will keep time accurately. Anyway thanks for taking the time to make videos much appreciated.
See that little hole at the number 12? That's where you adjust the speed of the clock. Your key should have two ends; one for winding and a smaller end for adjusting the time. Turning adjuster clockwise will speed up the clock, counterclockwise will slow it. Keep in mind, though , that the accuracy of the clock is only a couple minutes a week. When the spring is fully wound, it has more power and the clock will run slower. As the spring unwinds, the clock will run faster. As far as leveling, you are correct that the "tick-tock" should be even. You can adjust that by slightly bending the brass wire, called the crutch, that pushes the suspension wire on which the pendulum is hung. Bending that wire slightly in one direction or the other will affect the "tick-tock", called the beat of the clock.
dperry428 Thank you so much!
My God, I think that I may have stumbled across the most interesting video I have ever seen. At first I thought what a mess. He is going to lose parts on that work bench ! But then I realized that you knew what you were doing and I just had to watch. You see , I myself had a very brief experience with watch/clock repair. I note that you said that your age is a little behind min but you may still be able to remember. I was about nine or ten when I received a Roy Rogers wrist watch for my birthday. In those days children's stuff was quite high quality if it was not made in Japan.
My wrist watch had a genuine tooled leather band. The buckle was an engraved nickle/silver stirrup. With a matching case.
Well, I got to wondering , what makes it work ? So, I took off the back. Can't see much of anything. The edges of some wheels and that was all .
I need to see more. I don't know how I found anything that small but I started to remove the screws from the inside back. And then as I removed the last screw, everything inside went sproing and instant disaster ! I tried for the longest time to put everything back inside but it was hopeless. I had ruined my special watch . And that was the end of my clock repair career.
I did learn a valuable lesson that day which has stood me in good stead for the rest of my life. And that is , know how or at least have a pretty good idea of how to put something back together BEFORE you take it apart.
Thus, you learned the hard way that the first thing to do when repairing a watch or clock is to let down the spring. In a clock, the spring is strong enough to cause real damage to not only the clock parts, but to the person taking it apart. I'm 74 and started repairing clocks at 25, so very soon it will be 50 years. It's very satisfying to bring back a clock that has seen better days and repairing them is what I do in the winter when it's too cold to work in the yard. And, yes, I remember the days of going to Saturday morning shows at the theater to watch Roy Rodgers and Dale Evans, Gene Autry, Hopalong Cassidy, Red Ryder, and the Durango Kid. I always wanted a Mickey Mouse watch, but ended up with Porky Pig. Thanks for the interesting story
I have changed springs on maybe eight of these clocks but this Gilbert clock scared me. Your video was helpful.
Your comment at 1:17 was not encouraging. Maybe I could add this: I did the strike side first and had a heck of a time with it. I finally got it. I put a twisty tie between the 3rd and 4th wheel. I fussed over the C clamps to make sure I would not be fighting them. I put two small but strong magnets on the bottom (It is steel). I added the time train and it went together. I was astonished. The last stop adjustment had to be redone, but it was no problem. The takeaway might be that I completely understand these American kitchen clocks and may have upped my certification level. (You are better than I.) thanks for the video.
I'm glad the video was helpful.
question sir; These American clocks use a lot spring wire. Can we buy this wire?. My regular vendor does not seem to have it. (thanks)
timesavers.com/search.html?q=brass+spring+wire&go=Search
G'day I have done a correspondence course sometime ago I really love these old clocks and you sir are a master! How you went about repairing the bushes and pivots was very sympathetic to the old nature of the clock and it was good how you showed what a mess someone did to that old piece. It turned out a truly beautiful time piece once you finished it. Thank you for videoing how you went about it I know that it's not easy filming something like you did. I have sub and I look forward to watching you repair another clock. Kind regards John Kinnane Tasmania Australia
Have you checked out the others?
ruclips.net/video/JcUq4tSj98I/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/kuzm97fhkkk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/QEgUWsrASGk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/b_RxfNN6vX4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/pCl3hkGTQIY/видео.html
I've repaired clocks as a hobby since 1968
I stumbled across your chain link fence turned stone wall videos... my jaw hit the ground when I saw the finished product, and here again, you've astounded me with your "hobby"! You are very talented, and I just thank you for sharing all these videos :-) I happened to love hearing the Cuckoo in the background - I have two that I do not know if they work, but if they don't, you can bet I'm going to take them apart and see what may be wrong! They have been in storage b/c I have been moving quite regularly. I'm looking forward to putting down real roots and digging out the family heirlooms :-)
Thank you. If you're going to try repairing a cuckoo clock, you might like watching this video:
ruclips.net/video/jOEBtlppwDI/видео.html
Hard to make any money with the amount of time it takes to rebuild a clock movement, repair cost are typically more than the clock is worth. Also when you are using an $800.00 lathe, $600.00 ultrasonic cleaner, $250.00 spring winder and numerous hand tools, chemicals, etc and a lot of hours to do it right. It is amazing just what having the proper equipment cost. Good Video
I'm not interested in making money; this is my hobby. One could say the same about someone who has woodworking as a hobby. Hard to make money with $25000 worth of woodworking machinery and tools. Hobbies are different from businesses. They are done for the sheer joy of it. Something done to change the humdrum of making a living. I was a science teacher and clock repair my diversion from stress. I charge people for material costs and then ask they make a donation to the local food pantry. I take joy in that and in saving clocks that otherwise would never run again. This particular clock belongs to a friend who, like myself, does not have hundreds of dollars to spend on a clock that has been sitting in a closet for 40 years. Likely, the clock would have remained in the closet until she passed. Then, after the funeral, the next generation would likely put it in the dumpster with all the other "trash" they didn't want and another clock would be lost forever. Now, she can enjoy her working clock for the years she has left, I can take joy in in her joy, and the clock will likely be treasured by her children rather than rotting in a landfill, at least for now. Yes, it is amazing what having the proper equipment costs, but the same could be said for ANY hobby. Fishing boats and gear aren't cheap, nor are properly-fitted golf clubs. For most of the 50 years I've been repairing clocks, I did without the new Sherline lathe and used an outsized 1930's South Bend lathe. I did without the ultrasonic cleaner and scrubbed each part with a brush in a bowl. I did without the nice spring winder and worked dangerous springs with hefty leather gloves. RUclips ads have provided the new stuff. I'll be 75 years old in a couple weeks, I'm retired and rejoice in not having to make money in my hobby, but, for a while, have the time to work with time.
dperry428 Very true, in my opinion. I've often experienced sticker shock when shopping for professional grade tools. Even when making a tool in the shop, the costs can sometimes run high.
WOW...THOUGHT I WOULD CHECK IN WITH THE MOST AMAZING GUY ON THE INTERNET.. ..you fence project still INSPIRES ME. AND ONCE AGAIN I AM ASTOUNDED.
let me tell u. .... I tried making automata and this isn't easy if you don't understand this stuff at all. IT MIGHT AS WELL BE ADVANCED ALGEBRA CLOCK WORK IS IMPRESSIVE AGAIN.
I bought a walnut grandfather clock a guy was making. he has it all done but the door and thr clock part. it came with all sorts of clock looking parts but I havent a clue. I paid 3.00 tho!!!! it's on my list..
Thank you for the kind comments. I've been collecting and repairing old clocks since 1968. I thought I'd share what I do in the winter when I can't be outside messing with concrete. The clock videos were really made for the people whose clocks I repaired so they could see what I did to them to make them work. I thought they might be informative, but, you watch, there will be people commenting about them as to what a horrible job I did fixing these clocks.
Not a horrible job by a long shot. This clock had been "patched up" before as we found out and poorly too. It's running great now, keeps time, sounds and looks beautiful. A pure pleasure to have.
I knew nothing of clockworks and have never touched one, but I watched this whole fascinating video. Ironically, the clock repair fascinated me while the constantly ticking clock in the background annoyed me!
Then you wouldn't like being in my house. I've been collecting and repairing clocks since 1968 and there are at least half-a-dozen clocks running at any given time. It doesn't take long before the ticking and chiming aren't even noticed.
Thanks for the video! I've got a 1906 Gilbert 8 day that I'm working on - keeps time OK, but the striking side seems to bind on the lever / tooth and I think it is the lever warning not catching. Your video gave me some better views of the guts though!
Sounds like your talking about the lever that drops into the slots on the count wheel. It is on the same arbor as the lever that catches the pin on the warning wheel. If it catches on the edge of a deep slot, the lever that catches the warning lever will not drop in front of the warning pin. Bend the lever with the flattened end that drop into the slots between teeth on the count wheel so that it does not catch.
@@dperry428 if I could fine those spring clamps, I could get a wonderful shot of the mechanism without the back plate
@@dperry428 is there a spring that pulled the lever that catches the warning wheel? It seems to always be "dropped" away. I see where it rides the minute wheel which causes it the arbor to raise and trigger the bell.
timesavers.com/search.html?q=mainspring+clamp&go=Search
No, there is no spring to work the lever. There are two levers that are involved in the strike sequence. The first has a piece that is lifted by the cam on the minute shaft. That piece is on an arbor that also has an extension that moves up to catch the warning pin when the pin gets released. On that same arbor is another L-shaped extension that lifts the count wheel lever and warning lever and the extension on the slotted cam on the second wheel to release the warning pin from its stop position so it can rotate half a turn to the extension on the first lever. When the piece that rides the cam on the minute shaft falls at the hour, the warning pin is released and the strike begins. These sets of levers can get bent by overzealous and unknowledgeable repair people so that the sequence doesn't work right. Understanding exactly how it works will allow you to get things in the right position. Also, if the movement has not been reassembled correctly, all the bending in the world won't help. When the strike side is put back between the plates, the count wheel lever should be in a deep slot on the count wheel, the lever that rides the cam on the second wheel should be in the slot (or lower flat area) of the cam, and the stop lever should be holding the warning pin. That is, the warning pin on the warning wheel should be toward the top edge of the movement. If those positions are not correct, the stop lever may miss the warning pin and the strike will not stop.
Great video! I would like to have seen how you knocked the old main wheel bushing out and how to peen in the new one.
The old bushing was knocked out by striking a flat-end stake with a small hammer, supporting the plate on either side of the bushing with staking anvils. The new one was turned on the lathe to be a tight friction fit, tapped into the hole and then the inside edge of the bushing planished with the hammer to essentially slightly rivet it in place.
Can you give me a source for parts? Specifically the main spring? I have a mantle clock I want to repair a broken spring on the strike side. Thanks for your videos giving me confidence to give a try at repairing a clock.
General source for most clock parts: timesavers.com/ Mainsprings: timesavers.com/search.html?q=loop+end+mainspring
The "20" stamped right below the center wheel shaft (that the hands fit on - not sure of definition) is the year of manufacture, so 1920 for this one. Question: I have the same movement and was wondering about those pivot holes. Are there bushings or some sort of insert at 5:00 or is that just a stamping relief at the pivot holes making them look like a separate piece from the front and back plates?
"The "20" stamped right below the center wheel shaft (that the hands fit on - not sure of definition) is the year of manufacture, so 1920 for this one" Yep! That's what I said in the video.
The plates of this movement are steel, plated with nickel. The pivots, also of steel, run in brass bushings inserted into the plates. They are, indeed, separate from the plate. For various engineering reasons, a rotating shaft and its bearing surface should not be of the same material. The bearing surface (bushing) is softer than the rotating journal. It appears that in the manufacturing process, the bushings got plated with nickel along with the plates, but they are, indeed, brass. When brass plates are used, it is common practice for the pivot holes to be simple holes drill into the plates.
@@dperry428 Wow, thanks for that perfect explanation of the nickel over the steel plate! Sorry about the date comment: I was responding more to another commenter who asked about the date.
I like the videos where you show all the steps - very useful to us beginners. Shame you skipped the bit (around 42mins) where you push out the old bush and fit the new one.
I'll try better next time. Sometimes, these videos can get so long that I wonder if anyone will watch them. Actually, this was the first one I posted about clocks and it was done mostly for the person I was fixing it for and then decided to post it.
I think your clock videos are great. Seems quite a few others do as well :)
Outstanding video
I noticed in this video that you are using PCV Pipe to hold you movement while you work in it. It looks to be 3” in diameter by 5” in height. Please let me know what the actual dimensions are. Thanks. You’re videos are very informative.
It doesn't matter what you use. The purpose is to raise the movement so that the hour and minute tubes that extend out from the front of the movement are suspended. I use whatever I have available. In this case, it is likely a 3" PVC connector. A wide-mouth plastic jar would work equally well.
Thanks for the information. Looking forward to seeing more of your clock repair videos.
Hello.. I have a clock movement with 503 written on it and thats it. Do you know what this movement is? The movement is round with a single bell strike. This movement came out of a mantle clock similar to what your working on in this video.
The only mantle clocks I know that have a round movement and strike on a bell are French Japy Freres clocks.
Thank you for sharing. It looks like you gave the assembled movement a bath before disassembling. If so, was that in an ultrosonic? What type of solution did you use?
Thanks!
I don't remember whether this was done in with the ultrasonic cleaner. I only recently got one. Initially, the clock is simply washed down, either by hand or with the help of the ultrasonic machine, rinsed and dried with a hair dryer. Then it is taken apart and the individual pieces cleaned. I use a standard clock cleaning solution available from clock supply houses like Timesavers. You can make your own with Dawn dishwashing soap, ammonia and Murphy's Oil Soap. Some say to also add acetone, but I don't recommend that.
@@dperry428 you used the ultrasonic. I remember how impressive the parts were after cleaning. I love my clock!
A bit of an odd question, but where can I find those emery sticks you are using?
I cannot seem to locate them.
Thank you for your time and wonderful videos, they are so very helpful.
Great work!
M
ronellclock.com/Emery-Buffs-Choose-From-11-Grits-Emery-Buffs.htm?categoryId=-1
Why do some backs look like aluminum.. is there a way to get them back to bronze... also how do you fix bezels and dial faces?
What backs are you talking about? The doors on the back of the case? You need to be more specific. If you mean the metal door on the back of the case, some were brass and some were steel and, perhaps, even tin. Some were even brass plated steel. I know of none that were bronze. As far as bezels and dials, it depends on what is wrong with them. Dials can be porcelain, painted metal or just glued-on paper. Again, it depends on what the problem is. Sometimes, it's just a matter of gluing on a new paper dial, or it may be a matter of repainting the dial numerals with India ink. Most bezel problems are from hinges that have been broken off and have to be soldered back on.
@@dperry428 my apologies.. the back plate and front plate of like a gilbert clock mechanism. It looks to be made of aluminum.
@@MrLost38 It may be steel or even nickel-plated brass. Use a magnet and see if it sticks to the plate. If it does, it's steel; if not, it's likely nickel-plated brass. You'll want to leave it original.
Your grand daughter is so cute😊😊😊.
I think so too!
Have you ever had to place bushings in and Redhill both plates together ti create new locations for both ends of a wheel?
Like if, the holes were so poorly aligned from former work that the true location of the pivots are not correctly located in the old bushings?
Is there ever a reason to lay both plates together and re drill them together to relocate a TRUE location for a wheel?
Did that make ant sense?
Redhill? There are times when a rebushed hole was not done correctly. That has happened a few times. Never had both holes off. If one is off, I use the good side as reference to relocate the bad side. Most times, the plates can't be put together because of riveted pieces. I put layout dye on the area of the bad pivot, use a divider to measure distances on the good plate from adjacent holes to the good hole and then scribe those distances on the other plate from the adjacent holes. Where the scribes lines intersect is the true center of the defective hole. Otherwise, the way to relocate badly placed holes is to use a depthing tool to determine distances between gears and mark the plates. Again, intersecting lines show the center for the pivot holes. It can get tedious.
Good job
Thanks
Amazing repair USA clocks always suffer enlarged holes as they use very poor quality brass plate I have 2 antique Ansonia clocks with same issues
A clock that was built in 1920 and ran at least a couple of decades without servicing, I wouldn't call poor quality. These clocks were not meant to be high quality clocks at the time. Likely your Ansonia clocks also ran for decades without proper maintenance. Tell me what country makes inexpensive clocks that are of higher quality that don't show this kind of wear when neglected to decades. I've fixed many German movements that show this kind of wear and worse.
dperry428 I colect old clock's I consider hi quality French clocks Japy Feres or gold medal Martin I have run for 36 years in my home widout any service I also own a rare large cuckoo clock large bird moving on nest automaton beautiful working conditions , but I have it working only on special occasions. Guy's that fix clocks they become very rare to find in my country ( I need a suspension for a Japy french mantel clock i search everywhere in Romania and I can't find ) I like your videos and I subscribed
Yes, French Japy Feres clocks are high quality clocks with thick brass plates but, they were NOT inexpensive clocks when they were made nor are they inexpensive now. Again, I ask you to name one other country that made INEXPENSIVE clocks of higher quality than the old mass-produced American clocks. Remember that many, if not most Connecticut clock makers, sold their product for a dollar or two. Is that what French clocks sold for? For suspension springs, try this company:
timesavers.com/search.html?q=french+clock+suspension+spring
They also ship internationally: timesavers.com/p-9572-shipping-discount-information.html
Very nice video!
Is there any chance that you would consider a repair of a Regula clock movement (not a cuckoo movement) I am 80 years old and have had to discontinue my repair efforts due to a loss of feeling in my fingers. I would be willing to contribute any amount you suggest to whatever charity you recommend. If you would consider this, I will send photos if you need them. Thanks for any consideration.
I'm sorry, but I can't take on any more until I catch up with those I still have to do. I'm also 80 and just don't work as fast or as long as I used to. I'm also afraid to have someone send me a clock that I'm not able to get to right away.
hi I have an old mantel clock that works for 3 minutes and then it stops. It was not working for a long time because it was in a storehouse .PLEASE tell me what s the matter with it.
First, it likely needs cleaned and oiled. It may also have worn pivot holes (the holes in the plate in which the gears run). A clock that is not excessively worn and still is clean enough to run, might simply not be level or what is called "out of beat". Here is a short video that explains setting the beat of a clock. ruclips.net/video/XgnvYfPVedY/видео.html There can be other things that will prevent a clock running, such as a weak mainspring, but all such repairs, including proper cleaning and oiling require dismantling the movement as was done in my video,
THANKS A LOT
As you said it was simply not be level and now it works . THANKS
There is a date on that clock it is an 1896 clock.
Edit : patent april 28 1896.
Glad you edited your comment as your original comment was dead wrong. Even the patent date of April 28, 1896 is deceiving. That patent is for a specific PART of the movement, the method to control the length of the pendulum and thus timekeeping. Steel plates were used between 1900 and 1920. 1920 is also when this style clock went out of production and the lack of pillars on the front indicates this clock was likely manufactured using up existing and outdated inventory. The approximate date of purchase by the owner's relative is also consistent with a 1920 date. The "20" stamped on the movement plate is also consistent with the method of dating the movement itself, if not the assemblage of the entire clock. There is much more to dating a clock than looking at a patent date. In this case the patent doesn't even apply to the movement, but to a small part on the movement.
@@dperry428 Thankyou for letting me know! :)
How do I contact you to get my clock repaired
At the current time, I'm not taking any clocks for repair.
i have a gilbert too but i have busted strike spring
Measure width, thickness and length and order a new one here:
timesavers.com/search.html?q=mainspring
Really Enjoying your work !!!!! wish your camera placement was better for viewing work.
When I make these videos, they are meant mostly for the people who own the clocks so they can see what was done with them. When I'm working on them, I'm concentrating on the work, not on the videography.
Can I have it please?
The owner lives in Oregon.
I have a Gilbert clock that needs repair
👏👏👏
He said a worty dird!
You should hear what gets edited out! That's what happens when you spend 4 years in service.
@@dperry428 ha, ha, ha, ha. Only a fly knows what was really said and maybe Marcia ;-)
@@dperry428 😆