Recently started using my new S2800 & it's fantastic! Quick sharpen to take the paint off & it splits & fells small to medium sized trees with ease! ♥️ Mine!!
Pick one up not long ago had a good few hours on it yesterday i really like it will be put to a proper test this coming week as ill be splitting every day love your videos respect
Just bought the husquavarna ,2800 splitting axe, great tool, only complaint,it need to have a longer handle, would give more energy in the swing,🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
I've watched this video a few times. I'm not a fan of synthetic handles but just recently I broke the handle on my Gransfors maul and I'm too busy to fix it right now. I've taken your word for it and bought one of these, along with a couple of aluminium wedges. I split mainly ash and beech, and it will be interesting to compare it to what I'm used to because it's very different. You clearly know what you're doing. At first glance I thought the profile would be too thin for it to split well but seeing it in use has proven that's not the case. Thanks for the detailed review - I hope I like this axe as much as you do.
As a follow up to this, the company I ordered from has send out an S2800 instead of an A2400. As it's going to be mainly for splitting, I think I'll probably keep it to save messing them around. What are your thoughts please Ben?
I have the 1400, and have overstruck way more times than I am willing to admit.. still to actually cause any visible damage.. this is on real (Australian) hardwood too! one hand splits like a champ.
This axe is actually produced by "Gardena". A german company that got bought by Husqvarna in 2007. The axes were designed in Germany. They are forged in France. The heat treatment is done in Germany. And the handles are done in the Czech republic. They are obviously Fiskars copycats but designed with the intention to improve a popular model. They use steel with 0,60% carbon like it is required by german industrial norm for quality grade "A" axes.
Hello Mr. Scott, I just Subscribed to your channel, Good make of that wood!!! I was looking for a Good Beater Axe, I was stuck between the Husky and Fiskers, After watching your video, you made it very clear on which one to purchase, also being a Timbersports Competitor, you know the tools involved, I thank you for the Vid and your honest opinion!!! The Flick Technique is very Affective 😉 God Bless 🙏
There’s something to be said about having a beater axe. I bought a cold steel trail boss for like 25 bucks, spent several hours modding it and now it just FLIES through pretty much everything. It’s so much fun to have an axe that I’m not even remotely worried about beating the hell out of, it adds this whole other layer of satisfaction haha. I am a huge Husqvarna fan girl lol I’m really sad how expensive they are this side of the sea.
The trail boss is a axe i have heard very good things about but not tried, might get one to test out in the future. I just modified a £14 hatchet and it outcuts a gransfors easily. Skills over expensive tools win any day of the week
Honestly unless you’re looking for a hewing axe.... I wouldn’t get a trail boss. My head was forged so crookedly it’s ridiculous the several hours was spent thinning the handle and shaping it so the crooked forging sucked marginally less haha- that being said it WAS my first axe so I do love it very much
I actually ordered what I thought was that axe, but reread the listing and realized it was the 24" version, so I cancelled the order and got a 28" Fiskars instead (which performs way above expectations). I may have to look into getting a Husky to add to the collection, thanks to you. I would be interested to see you use yours for bucking. It obviously works well for splitting.
Hey ben big fan of your channel would love to see an update of your husky an to see some bucking with it just got one for Christmas just gone awesome little axe 🤘
I agree from using mine over the weekend but as you have had yours for a few years longer a follow up vid would be awesome do a bucking comparison between the husky an something else of similar weight and length just for fun
I am with you on having a beater axe I have a cheap Cyclone axe I got to cut roots in the ground on up rooted gum trees. I chop straight into the dirt all the time and have never had to sharpen it’s chisel like grind it comes with new. It’s is my favourite tool in my Ute. I’ll have too see if they sell husky axes down here in Australia as they look like a good up grade on the fiskars.
I wouldn't say they are that much better than fiskars, a poll that is actually specified for wedge driving is nice but other that that its a bit more robust. If your fiskars breaks maybe try one as a replacement
I got the longest fiskars splitter, and very good. Got it about 3rd of price. Saved my back. And the power you can hit the log with is awsome. That looks a good work axe. Modern materials! Looks good, can you get longer version? Have to look into that. Looks a strong piece of kit.
no they don't come any longer than 70cm. Its a bit short for a dedicated splitting only tool but I use this for everything, limbing, wedge driving etc. the big benefit is this has a hardened poll, the fiskars does not. I liked using the fiskars x27 as a splitter (till it broke) but this is a better companion for chainsaw work. It can chop okay too
@@benscottwoodchopper i agree. If used on a nice high oak chopping block like i have that would be perfect. If it was out before fiskars i would have bought that. Better than the Stihl version as well. I have some bahco pro 2.5lb splitting axes on long handles and for some jobs they are ok. The best splitting maul i have is a village forge 6lb fibre glzss hzndle but with a black polypromide somthing covering. I have had it 35 years, it has been through some work and hardened poll thzt hasn't got a mark on it. And is still in brilliant condition. I got i for £6 from local tool shop. I would not part with that for anything else. The handle is smooth so far down with a textured grip at the bottom that is fantastic. Wonder if you can still get them. Made in China for US company. And i never noticed the makers mark untill years later.
I think I am much quicker splitting by hand than a hydraulic, especially when you include handling time. Hydraulic splitters are great on the really tough stuff though
Husqvarna resells for 100€ what the original producer "Gardena" sells for 85€. Actually there are many deals for 50€. www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/3963449_-2800s-gardena.html
I always wonder if folks over in your part of world look at council as some sort of novelty high quality product like we do with Oschenkopf, Husqvarna, etc. They’re almost always nearly twice the price listed on American sites. Fantastic video as always. You some how managed to make splitting saw cut wood look interesting. Your commentary on that axe had me sold on it but as I said even the husky stuff is overpriced. Sad...
I think a lot of people here are envious of some of the old american brands you can find at flea markets but cost a hell of a lot to post to here. We can buy council tool from at least one place in the uk at a good price. I am really not sure why the price in the USA increases so much? Import tax or something right? Its something I cant wrap my head around, that the USA with such a heritage of axe making and using and apart from council tool there is bugger all in the way of new axes that are reasonably priced as well as reasonable quality.
Ben Scott It beats me. I mean we have sno and nealy but they’re laughable. If they were offering different handle lengths, maybe they’d be worth the cost. I hope it was clear that I think ochsenkopf and husqvarna are really nice but I can’t justify buying knowing how cheap you guys can get it lol. I just watched a mini documentary on how ochsenkopf makes and heat treats their product. I made a blind statement that the heat treat process was superior to council axes (based on the sound coming from the steel) but it proves my point. Council doesn’t hold a candle.
@@seff2318 not come across the ochsenkopf heat treat proccess, if you have the link can you send me it? From filing a couple of their axes I could feel that it was a good steel, probably my favourite to work with from any axe except basque of course
@@benscottwoodchopper Ello ello, what's all this then! As far as i know we only have one source for council axes and they're pretty cheap and i'd like to think people are aware that they can have flaws like poor heat treat etc but people accept that and see them as solid, affordable, functional axes that they're happy to buy and use however they want and can just get another one if they somehow mess it up. Haven't seen a huge amount of velvicut axes being shown on U.K youtubers channels personally but they tend to have a similar following as the swedish handforged axes..
Impressive sized tree. Definitely think that on wood like this splitting it green is essential on a small scale if you're only cutting a couple down for a single homes yearly firewood.
Hi Ben, I know this is an old video but do you remember what you did to the axe edge when you got it? The primary bevel is about 25 degrees inclusive with a small secondary bevel (@55 degrees), all coated in telflon. Blunt to the touch out of the box. Did you file off the coating to get an edge and keep the factory angles (which I think are suitable for a general purpose axe)?
Great video. Not sure it'll convince me to buy something with a composite handle, but it seems to be a good all-purpose axe. I'm not a wood handle snob, I just like the marriage of wood and steel. It's the simple things :) Regarding overstriking and protectors, I find that most handle damage happens from the handle passing through the wood, which can chip or scrape off the wood fibers little by little, weakening the wood over time. Not saying that overstriking isn't a factor, they certainly do happen. My main splitting axe is a Helko 4.5 lb Spaltaxt and I made a 3.14mm thick Kydex wrap for the collar and it has held up astoundingly well. Perhaps I should make a video and tutorial on how to make them. The material is fairly inexpensive and is easy to work with.
I prefer a thin and customised wood handle for sure, but its nice having an axe for work that you don't have to baby. Its entirely function over form I think a video on making a kydex protector would be awesome
@@benscottwoodchopper Indeed, what matters is how well it works for the person using it. I wanted to make one or two more soon, and I need to get to splitting my saw cut wood for 2020 soon. Wanted to wait until I finished two ricks worth of axe cut wood first, which I'm almost done. How's your stack coming along?
@@clarencerswann1360 at the moment only got half a rick, been trying to clear out an area of deadfall, tangled branches, tough knotty dry wood has meant slow work and filming videos has slowed me right down. got that series out of the way so hopefully will pick up the pace and get into the challenge properly. Aiming for another 4 ricks this year
Oh, you will struggle to damage these due to overstrike, ask me how I know.. but I refuse to admit how many overstrikes on actual HARDwood I have done (we are talking Tassie Oak here, not American hardwood)
havent tried it but should be a decent tool. Though for that size of axe I think a wood handled Rhineland pattern from ochsenkopf would be a better all round tool
@@benscottwoodchopper But it looks the plastic doesn't encase the top of the head, just the sides. I was wondering if it also extends inside the head (if it has an eye on the underside). Seems like a relatively small amount of plastic to secure it, without any pins, if it just goes around the sides, and the not the top, or inside, of the head.
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Recently started using my new S2800 & it's fantastic! Quick sharpen to take the paint off & it splits & fells small to medium sized trees with ease! ♥️ Mine!!
I agree. Great axe. I have the 1.6 kg version and it's beautiful to swing, lovely and light and perfectly balanced. Small enough to use one handed.
Looks pretty good. I wrapped the neck of one of my axes with linen canvas which works well.
Pick one up not long ago had a good few hours on it yesterday i really like it will be put to a proper test this coming week as ill be splitting every day love your videos respect
Just bought the husquavarna ,2800 splitting axe, great tool, only complaint,it need to have a longer handle, would give more energy in the swing,🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Agree, been using one of these for 2 years now. Excellent axe for relatively little money and very robust
I've watched this video a few times. I'm not a fan of synthetic handles but just recently I broke the handle on my Gransfors maul and I'm too busy to fix it right now. I've taken your word for it and bought one of these, along with a couple of aluminium wedges. I split mainly ash and beech, and it will be interesting to compare it to what I'm used to because it's very different.
You clearly know what you're doing. At first glance I thought the profile would be too thin for it to split well but seeing it in use has proven that's not the case. Thanks for the detailed review - I hope I like this axe as much as you do.
As a follow up to this, the company I ordered from has send out an S2800 instead of an A2400. As it's going to be mainly for splitting, I think I'll probably keep it to save messing them around. What are your thoughts please Ben?
I have the 1400, and have overstruck way more times than I am willing to admit.. still to actually cause any visible damage.. this is on real (Australian) hardwood too! one hand splits like a champ.
Ive always like the S2800...just wish the handle was 4" or more longer. But that series are nice bullet proof work tools.
Yeah 32" and it would be a flawless tool
Good point on the overstrikes Ben. If you split contrary wood it's going to happen. When you recommend an axe we must sit up and take heed.
I use the 2800 & it's excellent, great for logging & despite many comments, you can take down a few trees with it too! IFLM!
This axe is actually produced by "Gardena". A german company that got bought by Husqvarna in 2007. The axes were designed in Germany. They are forged in France. The heat treatment is done in Germany. And the handles are done in the Czech republic. They are obviously Fiskars copycats but designed with the intention to improve a popular model.
They use steel with 0,60% carbon like it is required by german industrial norm for quality grade "A" axes.
Good to know that its all made in europe. I do think this is a upgraded fiskars, handle on this is a bit better
Hello Mr. Scott, I just Subscribed to your channel, Good make of that wood!!! I was looking for a Good Beater Axe, I was stuck between the Husky and Fiskers, After watching your video, you made it very clear on which one to purchase, also being a Timbersports Competitor, you know the tools involved, I thank you for the Vid and your honest opinion!!! The Flick Technique is very Affective 😉 God Bless 🙏
Yeah the husqvarna is much better than fiskars for a beater axe. Glad you like the channel
There’s something to be said about having a beater axe. I bought a cold steel trail boss for like 25 bucks, spent several hours modding it and now it just FLIES through pretty much everything.
It’s so much fun to have an axe that I’m not even remotely worried about beating the hell out of, it adds this whole other layer of satisfaction haha.
I am a huge Husqvarna fan girl lol I’m really sad how expensive they are this side of the sea.
The trail boss is a axe i have heard very good things about but not tried, might get one to test out in the future. I just modified a £14 hatchet and it outcuts a gransfors easily. Skills over expensive tools win any day of the week
Honestly unless you’re looking for a hewing axe.... I wouldn’t get a trail boss. My head was forged so crookedly it’s ridiculous the several hours was spent thinning the handle and shaping it so the crooked forging sucked marginally less haha- that being said it WAS my first axe so I do love it very much
I actually ordered what I thought was that axe, but reread the listing and realized it was the 24" version, so I cancelled the order and got a 28" Fiskars instead (which performs way above expectations). I may have to look into getting a Husky to add to the collection, thanks to you. I would be interested to see you use yours for bucking. It obviously works well for splitting.
theres some chopping/bucking in this video around the 9 minute mark ruclips.net/video/2qRpA3Au1qM/видео.html
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks for the prompt reply. I'll rewatch that vid. Keep up the good work.
Hey ben big fan of your channel would love to see an update of your husky an to see some bucking with it just got one for Christmas just gone awesome little axe 🤘
still going strong after years of use at work. Best axe ever
I agree from using mine over the weekend but as you have had yours for a few years longer a follow up vid would be awesome do a bucking comparison between the husky an something else of similar weight and length just for fun
I am with you on having a beater axe I have a cheap Cyclone axe I got to cut roots in the ground on up rooted gum trees. I chop straight into the dirt all the time and have never had to sharpen it’s chisel like grind it comes with new. It’s is my favourite tool in my Ute. I’ll have too see if they sell husky axes down here in Australia as they look like a good up grade on the fiskars.
I wouldn't say they are that much better than fiskars, a poll that is actually specified for wedge driving is nice but other that that its a bit more robust. If your fiskars breaks maybe try one as a replacement
I got the longest fiskars splitter, and very good. Got it about 3rd of price. Saved my back. And the power you can hit the log with is awsome. That looks a good work axe. Modern materials! Looks good, can you get longer version? Have to look into that. Looks a strong piece of kit.
no they don't come any longer than 70cm. Its a bit short for a dedicated splitting only tool but I use this for everything, limbing, wedge driving etc. the big benefit is this has a hardened poll, the fiskars does not. I liked using the fiskars x27 as a splitter (till it broke) but this is a better companion for chainsaw work. It can chop okay too
@@benscottwoodchopper i agree. If used on a nice high oak chopping block like i have that would be perfect. If it was out before fiskars i would have bought that. Better than the Stihl version as well. I have some bahco pro 2.5lb splitting axes on long handles and for some jobs they are ok. The best splitting maul i have is a village forge 6lb fibre glzss hzndle but with a black polypromide somthing covering. I have had it 35 years, it has been through some work and hardened poll thzt hasn't got a mark on it. And is still in brilliant condition. I got i for £6 from local tool shop. I would not part with that for anything else. The handle is smooth so far down with a textured grip at the bottom that is fantastic. Wonder if you can still get them. Made in China for US company. And i never noticed the makers mark untill years later.
I want to split wood the old fashioned way like this, and actually want THIS axe.. wish they weren't 99$ tho... cool review video thanks!
I think I am much quicker splitting by hand than a hydraulic, especially when you include handling time. Hydraulic splitters are great on the really tough stuff though
Husqvarna resells for 100€ what the original producer "Gardena" sells for 85€. Actually there are many deals for 50€.
www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/3963449_-2800s-gardena.html
Thanks for the great information and demo!
I always wonder if folks over in your part of world look at council as some sort of novelty high quality product like we do with Oschenkopf, Husqvarna, etc. They’re almost always nearly twice the price listed on American sites. Fantastic video as always. You some how managed to make splitting saw cut wood look interesting. Your commentary on that axe had me sold on it but as I said even the husky stuff is overpriced. Sad...
I think a lot of people here are envious of some of the old american brands you can find at flea markets but cost a hell of a lot to post to here. We can buy council tool from at least one place in the uk at a good price. I am really not sure why the price in the USA increases so much? Import tax or something right? Its something I cant wrap my head around, that the USA with such a heritage of axe making and using and apart from council tool there is bugger all in the way of new axes that are reasonably priced as well as reasonable quality.
Ben Scott It beats me. I mean we have sno and nealy but they’re laughable. If they were offering different handle lengths, maybe they’d be worth the cost. I hope it was clear that I think ochsenkopf and husqvarna are really nice but I can’t justify buying knowing how cheap you guys can get it lol. I just watched a mini documentary on how ochsenkopf makes and heat treats their product. I made a blind statement that the heat treat process was superior to council axes (based on the sound coming from the steel) but it proves my point. Council doesn’t hold a candle.
@@seff2318 not come across the ochsenkopf heat treat proccess, if you have the link can you send me it? From filing a couple of their axes I could feel that it was a good steel, probably my favourite to work with from any axe except basque of course
@@benscottwoodchopper Ello ello, what's all this then! As far as i know we only have one source for council axes and they're pretty cheap and i'd like to think people are aware that they can have flaws like poor heat treat etc but people accept that and see them as solid, affordable, functional axes that they're happy to buy and use however they want and can just get another one if they somehow mess it up. Haven't seen a huge amount of velvicut axes being shown on U.K youtubers channels personally but they tend to have a similar following as the swedish handforged axes..
Impressive sized tree. Definitely think that on wood like this splitting it green is essential on a small scale if you're only cutting a couple down for a single homes yearly firewood.
This was actually just one of the major limbs that had broken off, the tree itself is much bigger
@@benscottwoodchopper Damn! Beech or?
@@elemental4rce yeah its a beech, some truly massive ones here
Ben Scott that’s a limb?! My god!!
Hi Ben, I know this is an old video but do you remember what you did to the axe edge when you got it? The primary bevel is about 25 degrees inclusive with a small secondary bevel (@55 degrees), all coated in telflon. Blunt to the touch out of the box. Did you file off the coating to get an edge and keep the factory angles (which I think are suitable for a general purpose axe)?
I just gave the edge one pass of the file to remove the teflon. It wears off with use anyway
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks 👍
Great video. Not sure it'll convince me to buy something with a composite handle, but it seems to be a good all-purpose axe. I'm not a wood handle snob, I just like the marriage of wood and steel. It's the simple things :)
Regarding overstriking and protectors, I find that most handle damage happens from the handle passing through the wood, which can chip or scrape off the wood fibers little by little, weakening the wood over time. Not saying that overstriking isn't a factor, they certainly do happen. My main splitting axe is a Helko 4.5 lb Spaltaxt and I made a 3.14mm thick Kydex wrap for the collar and it has held up astoundingly well.
Perhaps I should make a video and tutorial on how to make them. The material is fairly inexpensive and is easy to work with.
I prefer a thin and customised wood handle for sure, but its nice having an axe for work that you don't have to baby. Its entirely function over form
I think a video on making a kydex protector would be awesome
@@benscottwoodchopper Indeed, what matters is how well it works for the person using it. I wanted to make one or two more soon, and I need to get to splitting my saw cut wood for 2020 soon. Wanted to wait until I finished two ricks worth of axe cut wood first, which I'm almost done. How's your stack coming along?
@@clarencerswann1360 at the moment only got half a rick, been trying to clear out an area of deadfall, tangled branches, tough knotty dry wood has meant slow work and filming videos has slowed me right down. got that series out of the way so hopefully will pick up the pace and get into the challenge properly. Aiming for another 4 ricks this year
Oh, you will struggle to damage these due to overstrike, ask me how I know.. but I refuse to admit how many overstrikes on actual HARDwood I have done (we are talking Tassie Oak here, not American hardwood)
👍👍👍
The axe suits you well.
What are your thoughts on the A2400 (4 lb head), vs the S2800, (5 lb head)?
The 4lb is also able to chop, get the 5 if you only want it for splitting
Is 4lb is what you are using in all your videos? Looks very versatile.@@benscottwoodchopper
@@jessefrancis6582 yes i have the a2400, it can also chop
Thanks for sharing your expertise!@@benscottwoodchopper
Nice chopping
What's the handle of the axe made out of? Is it out of plastic?
Yes, its very strong
I need to get two of these bad boys.. and one hand split with them
Some of the most dangerous handling of an axe I’ve seen. Overall great review
Its not dangerous if you know what you are doing. Hits are backed up or beyond the body, sometimes hard to see with the camera angle.
What do you know about husqvarna h900?
havent tried it but should be a decent tool. Though for that size of axe I think a wood handled Rhineland pattern from ochsenkopf would be a better all round tool
Our golf clubs are axes!
The fiskars won’t break
how is the head attached?
The plastic is moulded into the head
@@benscottwoodchopper But it looks the plastic doesn't encase the top of the head, just the sides. I was wondering if it also extends inside the head (if it has an eye on the underside). Seems like a relatively small amount of plastic to secure it, without any pins, if it just goes around the sides, and the not the top, or inside, of the head.
@@Abbbb225 the head has large holes that the plastic is moulded into
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