Attempting to Make an Elliptical Hoop Skirt
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- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2024
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Missed out on my previous hoop skirt shenanigans? Catch up here: • Making an 1850s Hoop S...
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✩ Things mentioned ✩
Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines (this is an affiliate link):
amzn.to/2DkyJCR
✩ Supplies ✩
Twill tape is from toptrimming on etsy
Boning / Hooping Wire: www.farthingalescorsetmakings...
Cotton fabric is from jo-anns
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If you are interested in seeing more of my work or contacting me, I'll leave links to my various sites below!
Instagram: / angelacostumery
Blog: https: angelacostumery.com
Email: AngelaCostumery@gmail.com [serious inquires only please!]
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About me:
My name is Angela Clayton, I’m a twenty year old designer and seamstress who is currently living on Long Island, in NY.
I’ve been sewing for five years and focused on period costumes and original designs for the last three. I make costumes for fun and to expand my skill set so I can hopefully get a job in the industry someday.
I can be contacted with inquires about paid work via the email above.
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My patterns (go buy them!): mccallpattern.mccall.com/prod...
Meet my sewing machines video! : • Meet My Sewing Machine...
My dress form is a 10-12 display form from buystoreshelving.com
My reference books: angelacostumery.com/2016/11/2...
How I do my hair! : • Mid-Century Hair & Mak...
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Tutorials (features actual sewing): • Embellished Brass Crow...
Making of Videos (features actual sewing): • Making a 1950's Dress ...
Progress Log Playlist: • Weekly Progress Log #1...
Project Vlogs: • Project Vlog: Edwardia...
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Music from audioblocks.com 
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Honestly, I enjoy the fact that you share with us both what worked and what didn’t, so that we can try to learn from both! Thank you for sharing!
Im at an English costuming school and weve always called them French seams here
I know you may not be completely happy with this piece but it took so much skill and time and it looks awesome non the less
I’ve practiced them, but never actually attempted French seams in a finished garment. I think I’m now sufficiently inspired to take the plunge and give it a go. I’ve read that this improves the look of seams on tulle and lace, which I’ve found to look a bit iffy in my past attempts and which will be required for my next project. Fingers crossed!
In German it's also "French seams"...
Watching you walk through the doorway, and the hoop skirt bouncing back into place once you'd passed, was so satisfying 💖
Great video. I wish you had footage of you emerging from under the hoop skirt. I see in my mind a clown car situation. You emerge repeatedly in different outfits.
The dress form almost fell over when I was trying to get out - it was an experience of pure panic rathar than glamor lol!
I’m glad you emerged victorious. I often wondered about t the stability of modern dress forms with grand historical clothing on then. Please be careful. I once was caught in a vintage WWI sailor outfit. It was too small but I got 3/4 of the way into the top. After a moment of panic and help from a roommate. I too left the encounter unscathed. The top however now has 2 inch panels under each arm, and a panel in the back of the pants. It reminded me of your recent encounter with the sleeves!
The bat sweater! Also the color of your nails in the first half of the video is magical
Every time I see a project like this, I can't help but be amazed at doing the whole thing by hand! After all, the sewing machine wasn't invented until the later half of the 1800's. You'd think with all the labor required, simpler clothing designs would have been desirable.
@my CBD life You make a great point! It would also be informative to know just who was able to wear such voluminous clothing. I have a suspicion that the busy farm wife did not have many boned underskirts!
It was part of what made these outfits such status-symbols, I think.
@my CBD life the thing is, their corsets weren't made to be ''fashionable'' like the upper class women's were, but rather to be practical, ie supporting their bust and keeping their posture straight. i've actually tried on a corset shaped like 1830s ones, and it's really really comfortable! you can't tight lace it because of the sewn eyelets, so it just feels like a sturdy bra and redistributes the weight of your chest across your whole back and it feels really good!!
The first sewimg machine was invented in 1846. It wasn't uncommon for not just the wealthy to have a sewing machine in fhe home by the 1860's
@my CBD life There were different corsets for different purposes. If you tried on an off the rack corset today (perhaps from a goth store or similar place) then what you would find there will be nothing like the corsets they used to wear. Fabric quality has gone down a lot now so in cheaper off the rack corsets (and even some more pricey ones) nowadays they'll use sometimes 3 layers of fabric. Then the steel bones are generally 7mm wide and only placed on seams. Then a lot of the cheaper corsets aren't made with a lot of curve to them so can be a bit restrictive in the rib/hip portions in comparison with the waist - just too straight up and down. This can make for a stiff and heavy corset when it needn't be like that.
Indeed, the actual corsets worn in the past were frequently made of just one layer of strong but lightweight fabric. In the era of using whalebone/baleen (actually from the filters in the mouth of a whale & more like fingernails in terms of what its made of), then that was very light and also moulded to the body really well. Corsets designed for poorer women would use cheaper alternatives for the "boning" such as the shafts of feathers (where the term feather boning comes from), cording (just lengths of cord threaded through two layers of fabric like quilting), or even rolled strips of paper! Cording was used in corsets for richer women too, usually with a few bones in strategic places for support. Even when steel boning started to be used, the width was generally around 4-5mm wide instead of the 7mm which is common today. And it was distributed throughout the body of the corset. Meaning the corsets were a lot lighter weight and much less stiff than a lot of those you find today (unless you know where to look or go custom).
I personally find that wearing a corset really helps me if I'm going to be on my feet a lot doing housework like washing up for ages because it supports my back nicely and so I don't end up slouching. I don't wear overbusts as that would require an in person fitting and lots of mock ups with my breast size, however, one of the main reasons corsets were worn was for bust support and the one antique replica I made did a fantastic job of supporting my bust when I fit it.
Angela, I know you don’t feel it turned out just how you wanted, and I get that. But I truly hope you see all that is awesome about this hoop skirt. You amaze me. You are self taught, and with your hands take material and turn it into beautiful creations AND amazing foundation garments!! Where there was nothing before, now there is a hoop skirt, and in the future there will be petticoats for that skirt, and a gorgeous dress. Plus you are filming it all and taking the time to edit a video, and post it here for us, who so much want to view your creations. Bring on the bustle Angela! We will always be waiting to watch, enjoy, and cheer you on!
I have heard of pillow forts, but a hoop skirt fort is a new one for me.
First, this is a wonderful first attempt at an elliptical crinoline. However as someone who is both tall (5'10 actually) and wore this type of hoop skirt for years as a historical interpreter at Gettysburg, I can advise you on two things you might want to consider correcting before you make the petticoats and dress to sit over it. You have the size right, about 120 inches at the hem is the norm for us tall folks, but your hoop is short the final bone should fall no more than an inch to an inch and a half above your ankles. And instead of a hook and eye, it should have a drawstring at the waist to adjust the waist size of the skirt. Still, you did very well with it. :)
That's really interesting.. I've heard the hoop should finish 8-10 inches above the floor (by a pattern maker, I forgot their name).
What do people do without the hoop connectors? As I understand it they're something Farthingales invented. So I'm curious what others do?
I've been sewing horsehair braid on the hem of a 10 gore princess skirt today with a 6 meter circumference. I ran out of pins and went through 2 bobbins so I can only imagine Angela's struggle with this hoop skirt. Bravo Angela!
I think it turned out very well, especially for a first attempt at this shape! Well done! 👍
And don't be afraid of silence. It's only awkward if you think it is. I thought it was entirely appropriate. 😎
I much preferred the silence to most of the music folks tend to add. The video was both informative and relaxing. Good job.
If the bolt cutters give your wrists trouble, you could use a Dremel to cut the steel, btw. Works very well.
Yes they were too big and heavy for her small hands
Which head works for it? I don't have any cutting heads!
@@talosheeg
Just google 'dremel cut off wheel steel'.
The weight you sewed in may be a little too heavy. Plus the weight of your petti and overskirt will help keep the back from tilting up.
Dear Angela. The rings you're wearing are SO COOL! I particularly like the one on your right index finger.
I absolutely love your voice overs! I know it is not your favorite thing to do, but your voice overs are the most enjoyable ones I have come across. I am always finding myself giggling at the little comments you add. This time when you said the awkward silence was a lot like talking to you in person ... or not talking to you, I think I might have guffawed. I love what you do and your ambition to take on difficult projects. I think I actually get giddy whenever I see that you posted a new video. I'm sure it is a lot of work, but I think I can speak for a lot of people when I say that we really appreciate you sharing your process with us! Thank you.
I think the shape on this turned out great! Like you said, the other layers that go on top will disguise any imperfections. Thanks for sharing this!
The amount of work and fabric that goes into these things, make me really grateful for modern fashion.
Like: ‚Hey, a have a yard of fabric here...let’s make a skirt!‘ 😄
Thanks Angela for putting this out! This is an awesome video- obviously we all the the super pretty final pieces, but it's great to see the "ok" ones too. I've been a little apprehensive about digging into Corsets and Crinolines, so it's really helpful to see someone else working with it first.
Dancing about outside in your undergarments! How shocking! lol.
It's too big to photograph anywhere else!
To anyone who will be in New York City in the next few months, I highly recommend the Met's exhibit on camp fashion. Most of the clothes are fairly modern designer pieces, but there are also some stunning historical pieces. The exhibit is an explosion of feathers, sequins, and oh so many ruffles. I don't think I would ever want to wear 95% of the outfits, but they are fun to look at.
I think it worked out wonderfully Im surprised you didn't add a ruffle to the bottom
I love that you keep mistakes in as well. It helps with the learning process.
That Bat sweatshirt is EVERYTHING
"If anyone needs me, I'll be in my hoop (skirt) fort." It looks cute.
I cannot wait to see the bustle! I also look forward to the dress that will be worn over this hoop skirt.
Love this, and so excited for bustles!! Bustles are some of my favorite historical garments!!
Could you make a video vlogging your process of making a sewing video?
Even your failures are interesting to watch! It honestly feels like i'm learning together with you, which is perhaps even better as it makes one think of solutions to problems that i otherwise wouldn't have thought about ;)
You talking about french seams while I'm sewing them makes it a bit better knowing people suffer from the same things :D
Can’t wait to see the dress that goes with this
I can listen to you all day, I am still in awe of your talent. You do such a great job.
Just saw all of your beautiful patterns in McCall magazine, boy they are gorgeous, great job
This takes a lot of skill and you have the skills to achieve what you set out to do . I have never seen this being made before . I take my hat of to you Angela you are very inspiring . Cannot wait to see the dress over it
“It’s like talking to me in real life!”
There is always that one random, unexpected piece of dry humour in your videos that cracks me up waaay more than I will ever admit. Love your vids! 😁
This was an amazing series. I appreciate you sharing with everyone the pros and cons of making hooped garments.
In German the seams are called "französische Naht" which is "french seam" :)
love your Videos and your work!
I can't wait to see a dress draped over this!
I think it looks lovely!!! You're such an inspiration Angela
Omg I adore your bat sweater! Also, I love how informative your videos are, on what is done right and what is a learning experience. Thank you for sharing both!
You're such a talented young lady with such a calming demeanor which is why I like watching your
videos. You have made me want to try sewing an article of clothing from a pattern for myself. I've got the
pattern and everything I need to start on a mock-up and having only got the pieces cut out so far, I can say,
you make this look so much easier than it is well at least for me and I've not got to the hard part yet where I
have to figure out which part gets sewn to what other part.
Many years ago I made an elliptical hoop cage similar to the style of Truly Victorians pattern. It was made out of steel boning and twill tapes pop-riveted together, the key to the shape is in the placement of the twill tape in the back top of the cage. There were 3 strips aligned in a kind of Teepee shape and were attached t the top three horizontal strips of boning at angled points. Now that's an explanation the is as clear as mud. I would imagine the same design would apply to the elliptical hoop slip. Love your videos and Pateron channel.
I cant wait to see the dresses you design in the future to go with these hoops
I definitely use the term 'French seams' here in Australia, am at costuming school and have never heard anyone say 'English seams'.
As far as I know, solely from youtube comments, it's mainly the french that call it an English seam
Well, I'm french, and I call that "couture à l'anglaise" (english seam). I have no idea why the rest of the world says it's our seam technique, of what I know, it is english in the first place !
In German, they are called french seams as well
Lily Kiss
That is so interesting! Makes me want to research the history of this technique...
Which costuming school? Am currently looking for a costuming course for next year.
Fantastic work so inspiring and a joy to watch!
You are so inspiring! I love your channel! I've cleaned out a spare room and turned it into a sewing/makeup/wardrobe/ office room I'm so excited I can't wait until it's done! Huggies from Niagara Falls, New York.
Great info! I think you did a great job on it and I think it will look great under petty coats(s) and a pretty skirt.
Once again thank you 🙏🏻 and well done 👍. I always appreciate your honesty and the joyful 😀 way you share. Congrats and you are truly becoming a beautiful young woman, who is such a blessing 💝🥰
Really enjoyed watching this video didnt notice the accurd silence as you said because i was to busy watching your hands working!
I guess we all learn everyday. You learned about making an elliptical hoop skirt, and I learned about their existence. Thanks Angela!
All of your fixes were really clever! Don’t be too frustrated with it, I’m sure with petticoats and a dress it will look just perfect!
Do you consider making a pattern up using paper taped together in quarter scale ? Then you could see the shape ahead of time.
This skirt is awesome and so is your corset!
I really like the way it turned out.
Always fun to watch and listen to you.
That is amazing. Congratulations. Thank you for so much information.
Your videos always brigthen my day! Eliptical pettis are indeed far more complex to sort out.
I am so relaxed after watching this
Thanks Angela so much for sharing this. Makes you wonder just how these were worn back in the day. Imagine attending high school or date night? I like watching any videos you are willing to make, all very interesting. I enjoy making vintage gowns but unfortunately I have no use for the garments. Also like to make doll clothes. Like all dressed up and no place to go. Your career is going to be so amazing! love
Looks pretty good!
Omg, can I just say, LOVE that nail polish! 😍😍
Kudos to you for making this hoop skirt!! I think you did an awesome job!! I made a round hoop skirt and did a lot of swearing in the process.
Christine Steele Perhaps there’s a reason why she likes to do a voiceover narration on the edited footage. During the process, she can swear a blue streak as necessary. 😄🙊
Omg im so ready
we call them french seams in australia too! i love these videos, hoop skirts fascinate me
It just makes me SMILE 😊😁🤗
Beautiful!!! U are so talented & creative girl. 😊👍👍
girl! you as sooo way to hard on yourself! Really! Its wonderful!
'English seam' is a hand sewing technique used in 18th century bodices and early 19th century stays. It creates a neat finish, but is more sturdy than the French seam, like a light bone.
A tutorial: somnardetbegavsig.com/2019/03/11/engelsk-som-spilesom/
Wonderful to watch. I am also a silent sewer, and would have a difficult time with talk-overs. You do a great job Angela!
I love it! Think the early ball scenes from Gone with the Wind, which was in 1861.
Reminds me of Mary Poppins dress. Same color scheme, beautiful work you have there.
Thank you. I enjoyed watching.
Wow so much work! It came out pretty darn good! How many days/hours did it take you? Also I have to check your other videos for 50’s crinoline slips I’d love to try & make a few. Thank you for sharing 💗
Great video. Love the way it turned out. Im sure you will put it to good use. I have a suggestion/possible solution for cutting wire/boning. They make a stationary bolt cutter. It’s referred to as a ‘bench bolt cutter’. It is somewhat costly, but it may be worth it considering how difficult (it appears) boning is to cut. Again, I really appreciate you making this video. You are inspirational.
Just gotta say, your nails are always so beautiful
this is so cool!
You are very smart and talented.
I always enjoy your videos.
Also: loved the little glimpse of your undergarments, when you walked through the door! SHOCKING 😲
Gone With The Wind , Scarlett O'Hara comes to my mind . Looks great even if you not totally happy with it .
Watching Great British Sewing Bee first series a French seem was like a flat felled seam but not felled. It was sewn then one side of the seam allowance trimmed with the not trimmed side folded over to cover the trimmed allowance and sewed at the seam. I hope that's not as confusing as it sounds.
Even if the projects you do fail or are not finished it's still good to watch because we learn from you what to and not to do. I don't think you fail anyways, I think you become overly optimistic and when it falls short you view it as a failure. Which isn't something that can be easily changed. It's hard but know you do amazing work and it's helped many people.
In Australia and in home economics when learning sewing we called them french seams.
yeeeeees I am not alone in using this giant wire cutter for cutting springsteel oo! This stuff is SO sturdy >_>
The shape of the skirt looks ok. You never know how good it will look once covered with a skirt.
Very interesting! Thanks.
Maybe you could put a small weight in the back to even out the drape. I’m an illustrator and I don’t sew, it’s way too complicated for my brain to handle. What you do is amazing 😍
Can you make a video detailing the necessary materials for someone that wants to begin sewing clothing? Like the bare essentials.
It looks fine :)
Have you ever tried using acrylic nail cutters to cut your boning tips? It would give you the curved edges you want with one cut!
Where can you buy large spools of thread that are high quality?
I live in England and we call them French seams xx
The colors of this in progress remind me of Mary poppins! Even though this didn’t quite work I think it’s still really beautiful
i think you did great!
i thought hoop skirts usually had flounces on the hems though? a 4" one on that would make it the right length and help weight it down so it's not so cupcake-shaped.
though, i'm probably confusing it with something else, since i don't make or wear historical costume.
Excellent. What doesn't show, doesn't matter in my opinion.
Called French seams here in Australia
bustle bustle bustle!!!!
From my own research, what I think you need to do is let the bones (hoops/wires/whatever) have a little bit of wiggle room in thier channels. That will make the hoops conform to the shape of the skirt not the other way around.
I hope this comes across as friendly "in this togetherness", I'm quite bad at judging tone. I just want you to have something you think is perfect so we can all have more wonderful videos of you making dresses to go over it 🙂
We call them French seams in Canada as well, I've seen flat felled seams referred to as English seams.
Why the flat panels on the side?
It's so big!
Thank you for the free 2 months!! I’m trying to run a GoFundMe because of catastrophic dental bills, and I’m not making much headway yet. Hopefully the SkillShare will help me figure out how to make that work better. I appreciate the freebie!