I made bio-diesel awhile back and have 200 gal of strained oil still and trying to figure out how to get rid of it and already have a rocket stove much like yours but hadn’t seen a feed setup I liked until this, I will give it a shot! Thanks
In my experience, if you use table salt instead of sand, you can clean the coil easier with water. It's the same thing, it's just you can disolve the salt if it gets stuck.
My experience runs different. Sand and salt can be difficult to get out of the pipe once bent. I've found that water does not compress, and if you just crimp off the ends (bash with hammer flat and fold over) fill with water, and do the same at the other end. A little bit of air does not matter, just not alot. Cut the ends off, empty the water out and good to go.
Awesomeness! A few years back I made an alcohol jet burner with that copper tubing and a baby food jar. The thing was over powered and torched fuel so fast it pretty much self ignites the reservoir. I would caution folks to be careful with these coils because they work too good lol. They will heat up so much it becomes a jet of flames and fuel in seconds. Have fun stay safe and great learning.
I had the bright idea of converting one of my prototype jet engines into a waste oil fuel source for my foundry last year and finally got around to doing it this summer. Having used anthracite in the past to melt down anything from aluminum to cast iron, you wouldn't believe the heat blast you get just by plumbing in a little venturi-driven drip pipe in the exhaust leading into the foundry. While I won't begrudge anyone from saying that it's the cheapest knock-off of an afterburner ever made, boy does it work well!! When it gets up to full temperature, there's nary a sign of carbon soot coming out of the exit port, just steel-melting fire and fury. 🔥 Not sure how well it would work with more or less ambient air pressure feeding your rocket stove, but mine is also just a scrap copper tubing exit directed down the exhaust stream (granted it's well away from the extreme heat further down), but it's held up as well as can be expected. It'd be a bit of a bugger to do without a bender, but stainless brake line would work a treat for your application.
Always a pleasure to watch you "getting things cookin'" , Robert. Thumbs up for your consistent quality in inspirational demonstrations and for revisiting and improving former builts. Cheers to you, Luke and familiy, too.
You could install a manual pressurization pump in the reservoir if you want to boost the flame or reduce the ignition time. People kind of forgot that there were gasoline/kerosene blowtorchs which were good tools despite being slower to ignite and more dangerous compared to propane torches. A while ago I built a blowtorch for a flower pot sized casting foundry.
I love this concept. I have done something similar though it burned candle wax. The reservoir was closer to the exit pipe only well below the opening to melt the wax. What I did though was wrap the coil on the outside of the exit pipe. It takes a bit to get it going, but is much cleaner with less damage to your coils as they aren't directly in the flame. Less oxidation as well on the coil and better air intake as the coil isn't in the way. Fasten the nozzle through a hole in the top side of the burn chamber. Basically, I made a pulse jet fueled by wax. It didn't have much power, but it got very hot.
The copper pipe can go around the outside of the stovepipe to make it last longer but take a bit longer to come up to temperature... works better with round pipes though
great idea and brilliant build. I agree the coil closer to the chimney will likely make for a better burn . one idea I was thinking is to have the pipe entee through the first flue and seal off that entry so air is drafted in from the bottom entry only and the air is moving in on direction.
Grea stuff Rob! Hey intresting fact about waste oil burning. I don't know how your version of the EPA addresses waste oil disposal best practices, but over here the EPA recommends the oil change shops burn it on site in a waste oil heater, as the preferred disposal method! Apparently they all got togather and do what Govt's do best. They spent a bunch of money on consultants and "Studies" and decided that simply burning the used motor oil on site is less potentially damaging to the enviroment than a possible large spill form an accident in transport ovr the road!
Been watching your brilliant videos for a few months off an on... simply the best video I have seen in all my years of watching you tube... and I remember when you tube was invented.... Thanks!
People used to make a dripper for used motor oil onto their wood stoves to heat their garages. Preheat or anything, just a drip onto the coals. Burnt so hot you couldn't smell the oil burning. Brake tubing is annealed really soft, (for the first bend lol) I am not sure the availability offshelf UK, but eBay makes everything available everywhere lol.
Fun to see all the way you are getting full use out of that rocket stove as an experimental testbed/platform. Always curious to see you'll make next! :D
Why do I have this inkling that acorns will be used as the next biofuel for this…!!! Just brilliant Rob. Atm I’m just looking to recreate your chlorophyll/fluorescence test in sunny cyprus (technically I’m on holiday lol). Also someone said wind farms would be a wartime target so I started thinking about underground options e.g. Rabbit warrens (which use Bernoulli’s principle to ventilate)
Great idea, and so simple to build! Maybe some holes in the upper section of the main chimney, for feeding oxygen and boost the secondary burn of gases would increase combustion efficiency and heat?
That got pretty hot!! I'm curious though, is there any secondary combustion when you burn oils? I thought the advantage of a rocket stove was to burn the wood/secondary gases that would go up the flu otherwise, but when you burn oil, with enough oxygen, doesn't it all burn?
Somewhere I have an old cook stove with a burner like that alcohol lamp but mine was meant to run on Kerosene I believe. It’s an oily mess so I almost never use it but it’s a pretty neat design!
I'm amazed!! With what You come up with and how You do It! I also want to build a Rocket Stove, don't have the Materials yet, and The Idea with putting the Burner in the back is a good One. I would put the Air Holes always before the Burner and may even Windchanels and also give it an Airflow and not a sharp 90° turn, where the Molecules get slammed into a Wall, that should make it also Way better, maybe even Steel Melting hot if the Fire is burned long enough. Cheers :)
Unnecessary complication as resistive heating elements are 99% efficient in converting electricity to heat, so unless you are above 100% conversion (impossible) then it's just another way to make heat albeit unconventional.
@@edwingolddelirium A microwave is about 50 percent efficient. Most of the energy is lost in the process of converting electricity to microwaves (which are part of the electromagnetic spectrum). An electric stovetop is about 70 percent efficient, although that varies widely depending on the type of pot or kettle you use. Most of the energy is lost heating the air around the stove. An electric teakettle is about 80 percent efficient, although again this varies from kettle to kettle. Electric kettles are generally very well insulated, and the heating coils sit directly in the water, so less heat is lost to the air. An induction stove or hot plate is about 85 percent efficient. It creates an electromagnetic current directly in a pot to generate heat, losing very little to the air.
Grand Design ! Rob I Was Thinking When You Burnt Your Waste Glycerin , How About Soaking It Up With That Green Foam Stuff To See How Long You Could Get From A 3×3 Cube As An Emergency Fuel ? Bless Up Lads
Steel brake pipe might be a good coil material as it's got thick walls for the pressure only downside is the bore diameter is small so may have to play around with the amount of coils to get the heated surface area right 🤷♂️
Instead of air holes that would allow the flame to escape I would setup a secondary air supply like a modern wood stove has with a pipe from outside the stove wirh small air holes much like a gas burner to supply jets of fresh air where you want it in the combustion chamber. That is how a modern gasification wood stove gets clean combustion. You should be able to get a blue flame with enough air.
I never paid attention in science class, if I had you as my teacher then I'm confident I would've. If you've ever seen Anthony Hopkins in RED 2, you remind me of his character..... but much nicer and more pleasant.
all you need to do is direct the intake air flow more around your fuel spray head like a ventury to fix your yellow flame issue. done this making a forge burner out of steeel pipe. wrapped preheater copper tubing around pipe then put spray head in pipe. also works better of you put a slight restriction or needle valve before the preheater so it doesn't waste fuel
Just throwing thus out there for like minded people. I theorize Useing quantum clocks, entangled electrons, photons, Galactica xyz location, and a formula based on the 2/3 probability of super position measuring. That it will be feasible to use quantum properties for long distance communication, and or information transfer. Think about it we already do it on way by reading the red and blue shift, aswell as the fractal photon graph to tell what objects are compromised of. We could at the least be able to communicate at light speed.
I ran a 1992 Mitsubishi Delica on free waste vegetable oil from the restaurant my girlfriend worked at and then a sushi restaurant after she quit that job, it still needed diesel or biodiesel (I had not upgraded the rubber parts for it though) to start up on (and hence shut down on) since it relied on the hot engine and an electric pre-heater to make it work... I wonder if a check valve before the coil somewhere would help it squirt out the hole at the end better, much like a cheap coffee brewing machine pumping water by boiling it in the pipe with a check valve? I was following the work of some folks making centrifuges to clean used oils, they were burning used motor oil for heat and found the equipment lasted much longer when it was free of contamination that filtration alone doesn’t remove, like antifreeze... In the ghetto we just let the WVO containers sit for a few months and then carefully poured off the clean looking oil and stopped as soon as any visible dirt or funky layers started mixing - the 2 micron on-vehicle filer could handle a little dirt.
This thing rocket stove get my interested! And suddenly i found Vortex burning! if the stove have a cirkle in the chimney part you can get the fire going round in the pipe-chimney and the heat can concentrate at a lower place of the rocket stove!
Stainless steel brake line [yes I see plain steel was mentioned, but that will rust away pretty fast between the heat and the acids in the oil and combustion, but if you can't get stainless, it is certainly a fall-back] coiled many more times [surface area is key to proper preheating] and then use a brass spray tip from a garden weed sprayer. On the OTHER end, USE the SAME garden sprayer to deliver pressurized fuel oil to the flame [since gravity is going to do a terrible job] and, if nothing else, use a really cheap Chinese made emergency 12 volt tire pump to give you steady pressure, and to drive it, if you do not use a battery, plug it into an 12, 18 or 24 volt laptop power supply with the necessary amperage to handle the draw of the little 12 volt motor, since it will draw quite a few amps [usually better than 6 amps] and let the pressure blow-off on the tank be your tank pressure regulator, or else just get a regulator set to lower than your peak tank pressure [to keep it from rupturing] and likely set the pressure based on the feed rate you expect to get from your oil so you do not have too much or too little fuel, and so you can fine tune the fuel burn rate. Please keep in mind that this system will eventually 'coke-out', and every once in a while, it is good to wash the inside with some heated alkaline detergent and water, likely just pull the coil assembly, put it in a tank, plastic tub, bucket or barrel with plenty of hot water and let it soak, making sure every so often to let the detergent flow in and out of the coil, or perhaps use a tiny Chinese fountain pump and a piece f vinyl tube to force the detergent water through the tube. While they make some excellent spray cleaner that will remove that coke/carbon pretty quickly, its not cheap, and I do not know how much it would take to keep your system clean. Another way of cleaning it [the harsh way] is to build a really hot wood fire [possibly in your back yard or in a wood stove, or a coal furnace if your house is that old] and burn it until its pretty much glowing hot with some air being blown into it to oxidize the coke out as ash.
Very awesome priciple - makes a great off grid heater as well - all you need is to provide a separate pipe maybe 1-2" through/ beside the coil - need to start outside the stove - finish through the back wall of the stover and be ducted away - provide a low voltage fan on the end to push air through the central pipe and wuhlah you have central heating (tent/cabin/outdoor area) if the RS stays outside then never the exhaust and fresh air need mix :) Great demo!
A tip for bending coils without crimping: fill tubing with water, crimp the ends, then wrap around a cylinder to create a coil. A RUclipsr by the name of *NOBOX7* is a literal genius when it comes to oil burners, coils, heating alternatively, steam experiments, and high power burners. Check him out, his name is Bob and and he's a great guy.
Was the reservoir closed off? Should this not be closed off to create some kind of pressure to get the jet going? Could it help to use compressed gas in the reservoir like air to get a steady jet?
I think it is a bit of over thinking mate - I was half expecting someone to mention flame arrestors but to be honest it's just not needed as the colder oil is very thick and is sort of it's own arrestor and equally it's own one way - you would need some pressure to blow back against it and the restriction offered by a hole drilled in the cap isn't really enough to be able to build up that pressure
You may be one of the keystone that will soften EU (and that UK place) from this season’s winter heating bill. Keep making vids on this subject and help the EU. Help them, Obi Wan, you’re of their (and ours’) only hope.
Do not "hoverheat" the oil in order to avoid cloghing the tube and the jet. At list ad a "baffle" in front to the jet in order to have hight temperature combustion 👍
Maybe you could also use a smaller diameter pipe to reduce the amount of oconsumed fuel, then, with less fuel, the air intake should provide enough oxigen to achieve a complete burn
@@ThinkingandTinkering usually... But they'll work just as well powered by steam from a small boiler, which needn't be much more than coiled microbore. Something like a little bike pump to get some pressure into them for starting, then once boiler heats up the steam will keep it going.
Has anyone used a gutted auto engine void of it's reciprocating parts and the intake valve's, cam and rockers to make a wood or waste oil heater? On a V8 the exhaust would exit the point of where the carburetor bolted on. It could also be plumbed to produce hot water.
Sorry, this will NOT work for long on Veg oil or WMO. I guarantee it. The copper tube will clag with deposits in no time and the thing will not burn. Diesel, Kero, biodiesel, Fine, they burn clean. WVO and Diesel, you'll be lucky to put 2 L though it. Very surprised you didn't do more home work on this and provide better information. I was playing with things like this 20 years ago and thought it would be common knowledge you could not run this on waste oil. I have a similar stove design on my channel which I designed to run on waste oils and while it does need a poke with a screwdriver and a shake out to remove the clag, you can get reasonable hours of heat out the thing before you need to clean it. Doing this for waste oil would only be a waste of time and Money!
Burning biodiesel is a waste of time, effort and money. Veg oil will burn just fine on it's own, I have done it. I just had a drip feed going into my wood stove. Regarding your heating sand as a heat store I am giving it a go in my stealth cabin. Take out the gas outlet fill the gas bottle with sand and heat it over my kerosene stove turn off and go to bed. I will make a video.
A proper vortex/rocket stove will burn coal with NO pollution! ---------- You have an energy problem in Europe, get building turn out a top version, build a factory ------ be a billionaire and save the planet!
Was extremely interested. BUT this is re-inventing the wheel. RUclipsr Gerry (from Ireland) at GerrysDiy has a series of videos on creating a large waste oil burner to heat his workshop. These are now several year old. He uses old gas canisters and oil drums with great success. His working prototype and proof of concept was with biscuit tins and tin cans. Using a drip feed system into the heat pan resulting in temperatures that you mention with controllable flow rate.
oil burner heaters, diesel heaters, rocket stoves etc etc etc have all been around for decades if not centuries - so - in a sense it is always reinventing the wheel. But if you think about it having an easily made insert you can slide into a pre-existing rocket stove to adapt it to burn oil is pretty clever - even if I say so myself lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering - my point is that there is no need for a pressurised system to create a jet of flame with a continual heat source; to get the same effect for less (of whatever liquid) fuel with an initial burn and slow drip feed onto it. Check it out, it is superb. The more people know this the more they will ask to keep their spent oil at garages from service. Incidentally garages currently have to pay for oil removal; will save them money if it’s taken by tinkerers like us.
@@edwardsierpowski3839 i do apologise mate - I did indeed miss the point - I have seen Gerrys videos as part of the research I did for this - so I know what you mean - I thought I would just be repeating what he did and couldn't see the point of that but I will take on board what you say and have a rethink - cheers
Hey Rob, I somehow ended up unsubbed from you (probably my fault!) Seems I have a lot of recent solar stuff to catch up on! Have you got any other social media, like a Discord or something? I'd love to share some the info about my experiments with the Zinc Bromine battery with the community.
good to have you back mate - I am afraid I don't use many social media networks - youtube is pretty much all I can keep up with tbh but there is a discord group discord.gg/aFuTTdy8J8
Steel brake line should work well for the temps that could arise. Also brake line and brake line benders are fairly cheap.
I like that idea mate - I will check into it further
I'd recommend stainless tubing, steel corrodes easily at high temps.
I would use stainless steel myself , Just a personal preference , 304ss , 316 is likely to break during bending
@@TheExplosiveGuy I would think steel would rust out rather quickly,
I made bio-diesel awhile back and have 200 gal of strained oil still and trying to figure out how to get rid of it and already have a rocket stove much like yours but hadn’t seen a feed setup I liked until this, I will give it a shot! Thanks
In my experience, if you use table salt instead of sand, you can clean the coil easier with water. It's the same thing, it's just you can disolve the salt if it gets stuck.
My experience runs different. Sand and salt can be difficult to get out of the pipe once bent. I've found that water does not compress, and if you just crimp off the ends (bash with hammer flat and fold over) fill with water, and do the same at the other end. A little bit of air does not matter, just not alot.
Cut the ends off, empty the water out and good to go.
Awesomeness! A few years back I made an alcohol jet burner with that copper tubing and a baby food jar. The thing was over powered and torched fuel so fast it pretty much self ignites the reservoir. I would caution folks to be careful with these coils because they work too good lol. They will heat up so much it becomes a jet of flames and fuel in seconds. Have fun stay safe and great learning.
cheers mate
Same as penny stove always test in safe area
I had a few little loud can separation failures.
Sounds like you made your jet hole to big LOL
I had the bright idea of converting one of my prototype jet engines into a waste oil fuel source for my foundry last year and finally got around to doing it this summer. Having used anthracite in the past to melt down anything from aluminum to cast iron, you wouldn't believe the heat blast you get just by plumbing in a little venturi-driven drip pipe in the exhaust leading into the foundry. While I won't begrudge anyone from saying that it's the cheapest knock-off of an afterburner ever made, boy does it work well!! When it gets up to full temperature, there's nary a sign of carbon soot coming out of the exit port, just steel-melting fire and fury. 🔥
Not sure how well it would work with more or less ambient air pressure feeding your rocket stove, but mine is also just a scrap copper tubing exit directed down the exhaust stream (granted it's well away from the extreme heat further down), but it's held up as well as can be expected. It'd be a bit of a bugger to do without a bender, but stainless brake line would work a treat for your application.
thank you for the advice and tips mate - you can bet I will be taking them up lol
Always a pleasure to watch you "getting things cookin'" , Robert. Thumbs up for your consistent quality in inspirational demonstrations and for revisiting and improving former builts. Cheers to you, Luke and familiy, too.
thank you. mate and thank you for taking the time to post
You could install a manual pressurization pump in the reservoir if you want to boost the flame or reduce the ignition time. People kind of forgot that there were gasoline/kerosene blowtorchs which were good tools despite being slower to ignite and more dangerous compared to propane torches. A while ago I built a blowtorch for a flower pot sized casting foundry.
they do indeed mate and you are right those old torches were awesome - just a little more fiddle
I love this concept. I have done something similar though it burned candle wax. The reservoir was closer to the exit pipe only well below the opening to melt the wax. What I did though was wrap the coil on the outside of the exit pipe. It takes a bit to get it going, but is much cleaner with less damage to your coils as they aren't directly in the flame. Less oxidation as well on the coil and better air intake as the coil isn't in the way. Fasten the nozzle through a hole in the top side of the burn chamber. Basically, I made a pulse jet fueled by wax. It didn't have much power, but it got very hot.
nice - didn't think to look at pulse jets - nice one mate - cheers
Freaking awesome guys. I like your coil set up. Pretty sharp design.
cheers mate
The copper pipe can go around the outside of the stovepipe to make it last longer but take a bit longer to come up to temperature... works better with round pipes though
great idea and brilliant build. I agree the coil closer to the chimney will likely make for a better burn . one idea I was thinking is to have the pipe entee through the first flue and seal off that entry so air is drafted in from the bottom entry only and the air is moving in on direction.
Thanks for the idea! cheers mate
Grea stuff Rob! Hey intresting fact about waste oil burning. I don't know how your version of the EPA addresses waste oil disposal best practices, but over here the EPA recommends the oil change shops burn it on site in a waste oil heater, as the preferred disposal method! Apparently they all got togather and do what Govt's do best. They spent a bunch of money on consultants and "Studies" and decided that simply burning the used motor oil on site is less potentially damaging to the enviroment than a possible large spill form an accident in transport ovr the road!
lololol - that killed me mate - typical government thinking lol
Beautiful video mr Robert 👍
Videos with fire are fire! Keep up the great work and thanks for another informative and creative video!
cheers mate - who doesn't love a good fire lol
Been watching your brilliant videos for a few months off an on... simply the best video I have seen in all my years of watching you tube... and I remember when you tube was invented.... Thanks!
People used to make a dripper for used motor oil onto their wood stoves to heat their garages. Preheat or anything, just a drip onto the coals. Burnt so hot you couldn't smell the oil burning.
Brake tubing is annealed really soft, (for the first bend lol) I am not sure the availability offshelf UK, but eBay makes everything available everywhere lol.
brake tubing sounds like a nice idea and yes this is a kind of half and half between a forced air and a drip stove
I enjoyed seeing you use your mark1mod0 imperial measuring tool to get the length of tubing you wanted.
lol - well spotted mate - ye I wanted about a meter or yard lol
Fun to see all the way you are getting full use out of that rocket stove as an experimental testbed/platform. Always curious to see you'll make next! :D
lol - cheers mate
Only thing that could make videos like this better is to make them longer. Love it. Thank you
lol - wow - awesome mate - cheers
Pretty impressive... and quite clean-burning too!
yeah it did ok didn't it? for a first run I was kinda impressed myself - I didn't really know what to expect tbh
@@ThinkingandTinkering ... already sifting through my collection of capillary stainless tubing - thinking of building a tiny-tiny version some time...
Why do I have this inkling that acorns will be used as the next biofuel for this…!!! Just brilliant Rob.
Atm I’m just looking to recreate your chlorophyll/fluorescence test in sunny cyprus (technically I’m on holiday lol). Also someone said wind farms would be a wartime target so I started thinking about underground options e.g. Rabbit warrens (which use Bernoulli’s principle to ventilate)
Yep, they are currently a wartime target. Nederland anyone?
lol - I am an open book!! - let me know how you get on with your experiments mate - cheers
Nice work Rob. I think I’ll try this next winter 🥶. 👍
cheers mate - it took about an hour not including the stove
Great idea, and so simple to build! Maybe some holes in the upper section of the main chimney, for feeding oxygen and boost the secondary burn of gases would increase combustion efficiency and heat?
I do like simple builds mate - it puts things in the range of everyone - I agree improving the secondary burn would help
What type of valve did you use for your supply feed? I would think a needle valve would be best.
That got pretty hot!! I'm curious though, is there any secondary combustion when you burn oils? I thought the advantage of a rocket stove was to burn the wood/secondary gases that would go up the flu otherwise, but when you burn oil, with enough oxygen, doesn't it all burn?
Somewhere I have an old cook stove with a burner like that alcohol lamp but mine was meant to run on Kerosene I believe. It’s an oily mess so I almost never use it but it’s a pretty neat design!
what's the make mate - I can see if I can find it
I do love a bit of copper work
what's not love about a bit of copper mate lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering it's Art and people always say wow you do your own brakes pipes. I love it
I'm amazed!!
With what You come up with and how You do It!
I also want to build a Rocket Stove, don't have the Materials yet, and The Idea with putting the Burner in the back is a good One.
I would put the Air Holes always before the Burner and may even Windchanels and also give it an Airflow and not a sharp 90° turn, where the Molecules get slammed into a Wall, that should make it also Way better, maybe even Steel Melting hot if the Fire is burned long enough.
Cheers :)
nice ideas mate - thank you for taking the time to share them
that's cool will have to give it a go nice work m8
Great video as always. Have you considered doing a video on the eco system evolving in that coffee mug?
it is it's own little world mate lol
Hi Rob, do you think a GEET Pantone biodiesel burner would work in a rocket stove?
That’s a super hot design
cheers mate
You’re like a genius. I wish I was as smart as you.
great content thanks
Love these proof of concept builds
cheers mate
Love it love it love it and would like to see more of this and how to make the coil out of steal
You really are the hanibal lecter of science! Love your show!
lol - cheers mate
That copper pipe can be send through a microwave transformer with water a few times and connect it to a central heating radiator and small pump.
indeed mate - but it does Eem a little over complicate and would need an external power source for the microwave wouldn't it?
@@ThinkingandTinkering yes its gonna be the seondary coil well isolated to be the inductor.
Unnecessary complication as resistive heating elements are 99% efficient in converting electricity to heat, so unless you are above 100% conversion (impossible) then it's just another way to make heat albeit unconventional.
@@ProlificInvention without trying you don't know
@@edwingolddelirium A microwave is about 50 percent efficient. Most of the energy is lost in the process of converting electricity to microwaves (which are part of the electromagnetic spectrum).
An electric stovetop is about 70 percent efficient, although that varies widely depending on the type of pot or kettle you use. Most of the energy is lost heating the air around the stove.
An electric teakettle is about 80 percent efficient, although again this varies from kettle to kettle. Electric kettles are generally very well insulated, and the heating coils sit directly in the water, so less heat is lost to the air.
An induction stove or hot plate is about 85 percent efficient. It creates an electromagnetic current directly in a pot to generate heat, losing very little to the air.
Grand Design !
Rob I Was Thinking When You Burnt Your Waste Glycerin , How About Soaking It Up With That Green Foam Stuff To See How Long You Could Get From A 3×3 Cube As An Emergency Fuel ?
Bless Up Lads
I like that idea mate
Not been on RUclips for a while now but I'm going to have to binge watch to catch up on some of the creations 👍
awesome lol
Steel brake pipe might be a good coil material as it's got thick walls for the pressure only downside is the bore diameter is small so may have to play around with the amount of coils to get the heated surface area right 🤷♂️
Awesome mate
Thank you! Cheers!
Instead of air holes that would allow the flame to escape I would setup a secondary air supply like a modern wood stove has with a pipe from outside the stove wirh small air holes much like a gas burner to supply jets of fresh air where you want it in the combustion chamber. That is how a modern gasification wood stove gets clean combustion. You should be able to get a blue flame with enough air.
I never paid attention in science class, if I had you as my teacher then I'm confident I would've. If you've ever seen Anthony Hopkins in RED 2, you remind me of his character..... but much nicer and more pleasant.
lol - I have seen red 2 and cheers mate - that's pretty cool thing to have said
You sir ,,, thank you sir ... love your work ,,,
Much appreciated
all you need to do is direct the intake air flow more around your fuel spray head like a ventury to fix your yellow flame issue. done this making a forge burner out of steeel pipe. wrapped preheater copper tubing around pipe then put spray head in pipe. also works better of you put a slight restriction or needle valve before the preheater so it doesn't waste fuel
nice tips mate - thanks for that
Rob bends that coil like a pro ... perhaps he has a background in distillation or moon shining.
lol - I have made a few for various undisclosed reasons mate lol
No pressurization needed?
Amazing!
There are many that use compressed air to produce a jet like this, you used heat and a little bit of gravity!
Where's the video where Robert actually generated with the Stirling engine? I remember him showing the Stirling running, but I missed the generation.
I'll hunt it out and post a link mate
love it thanks
cheers mate
Excellent video again!! Keep it up!! Great work!
Cheers from London 👍😎🏴🇬🇧
Does that biodiesel still have methanol in it or did you distill it out? I definitely like your design!
the methanol is mostly in the glycerine byproduct - my diesel had the methanol removed
Just throwing thus out there for like minded people. I theorize Useing quantum clocks, entangled electrons, photons, Galactica xyz location, and a formula based on the 2/3 probability of super position measuring. That it will be feasible to use quantum properties for long distance communication, and or information transfer. Think about it we already do it on way by reading the red and blue shift, aswell as the fractal photon graph to tell what objects are compromised of. We could at the least be able to communicate at light speed.
Was it hard to get the sand out?
no - but you have to make sure it is bone dry - i used kiln dried sand
With paraffin and that charcloath would be really interesting
I ran a 1992 Mitsubishi Delica on free waste vegetable oil from the restaurant my girlfriend worked at and then a sushi restaurant after she quit that job, it still needed diesel or biodiesel (I had not upgraded the rubber parts for it though) to start up on (and hence shut down on) since it relied on the hot engine and an electric pre-heater to make it work... I wonder if a check valve before the coil somewhere would help it squirt out the hole at the end better, much like a cheap coffee brewing machine pumping water by boiling it in the pipe with a check valve? I was following the work of some folks making centrifuges to clean used oils, they were burning used motor oil for heat and found the equipment lasted much longer when it was free of contamination that filtration alone doesn’t remove, like antifreeze... In the ghetto we just let the WVO containers sit for a few months and then carefully poured off the clean looking oil and stopped as soon as any visible dirt or funky layers started mixing - the 2 micron on-vehicle filer could handle a little dirt.
nice share mate thanks for posting - I am not sure about a check valve but a needle in the hole or a smaller hole would be good I think
Instead of the nozzle you could put a small Venturi use something like a used mig welding tip for the oil feed and air from a compressor
good tip mate- pun not intended lol
Good burner for a foundry with forced air.
nice one
Excellent. What diameter is the jet hole, please?
That could be a great patio heater, would like to know the fuel consumption for various outputs of heat, great job
This thing rocket stove get my interested! And suddenly i found Vortex burning! if the stove have a cirkle in the chimney part you can get the fire going round in the pipe-chimney and the heat can concentrate at a lower place of the rocket stove!
nice suggestion mate - cheers
If you don't have sand, you can fill the copper tube with salt before bending it around a form.
Love it!
cheers mate
Stainless steel brake line [yes I see plain steel was mentioned, but that will rust away pretty fast between the heat and the acids in the oil and combustion, but if you can't get stainless, it is certainly a fall-back] coiled many more times [surface area is key to proper preheating] and then use a brass spray tip from a garden weed sprayer.
On the OTHER end, USE the SAME garden sprayer to deliver pressurized fuel oil to the flame [since gravity is going to do a terrible job] and, if nothing else, use a really cheap Chinese made emergency 12 volt tire pump to give you steady pressure, and to drive it, if you do not use a battery, plug it into an 12, 18 or 24 volt laptop power supply with the necessary amperage to handle the draw of the little 12 volt motor, since it will draw quite a few amps [usually better than 6 amps] and let the pressure blow-off on the tank be your tank pressure regulator, or else just get a regulator set to lower than your peak tank pressure [to keep it from rupturing] and likely set the pressure based on the feed rate you expect to get from your oil so you do not have too much or too little fuel, and so you can fine tune the fuel burn rate.
Please keep in mind that this system will eventually 'coke-out', and every once in a while, it is good to wash the inside with some heated alkaline detergent and water, likely just pull the coil assembly, put it in a tank, plastic tub, bucket or barrel with plenty of hot water and let it soak, making sure every so often to let the detergent flow in and out of the coil, or perhaps use a tiny Chinese fountain pump and a piece f vinyl tube to force the detergent water through the tube.
While they make some excellent spray cleaner that will remove that coke/carbon pretty quickly, its not cheap, and I do not know how much it would take to keep your system clean.
Another way of cleaning it [the harsh way] is to build a really hot wood fire [possibly in your back yard or in a wood stove, or a coal furnace if your house is that old] and burn it until its pretty much glowing hot with some air being blown into it to oxidize the coke out as ash.
Could that be made with fire cement on a bit bigger scale ?
if you're worried about the copper melting, maybe wrap it outside the burn chamber? still going to get hot.
nice one mate - thank you
Very awesome priciple - makes a great off grid heater as well - all you need is to provide a separate pipe maybe 1-2" through/ beside the coil - need to start outside the stove - finish through the back wall of the stover and be ducted away - provide a low voltage fan on the end to push air through the central pipe and wuhlah you have central heating (tent/cabin/outdoor area) if the RS stays outside then never the exhaust and fresh air need mix :) Great demo!
great idea - cheers mate
Maybe a round cut where to fit the descending tube (for reasons, you know).
Brilliant
cheer mate
A tip for bending coils without crimping: fill tubing with water, crimp the ends, then wrap around a cylinder to create a coil. A RUclipsr by the name of *NOBOX7* is a literal genius when it comes to oil burners, coils, heating alternatively, steam experiments, and high power burners. Check him out, his name is Bob and and he's a great guy.
will do mate and cheers
Was the reservoir closed off? Should this not be closed off to create some kind of pressure to get the jet going? Could it help to use compressed gas in the reservoir like air to get a steady jet?
no it was an open reservoir - things like pressure and compressed air would help but they also add complexity and this is meant to be a simple build
Would it make sense for a one-way valve? Keep oil pressure from backing up into the reservoir? Is this over thinking?
I think it is a bit of over thinking mate - I was half expecting someone to mention flame arrestors but to be honest it's just not needed as the colder oil is very thick and is sort of it's own arrestor and equally it's own one way - you would need some pressure to blow back against it and the restriction offered by a hole drilled in the cap isn't really enough to be able to build up that pressure
You may be one of the keystone that will soften EU (and that UK place) from this season’s winter heating bill. Keep making vids on this subject and help the EU. Help them, Obi Wan, you’re of their (and ours’) only hope.
lol - nice quote mate an cheers
Pre heat the air for the extra air intakes
Dont just punch holes in it
cheers mate
Have you tried it with glycerine?
To burn hotter with less fuel say a drip feed ad a small air blower.
I am not keen to add a blower - I don't want to 'plug it in' - so to speak
@@ThinkingandTinkering Use a long say 2 meter steel pipe going to the fire feeding from the blower say a hairdrier on cold.blow.
jet size for used motor oil? may need to boost air supply??
ya got a loicense fer that fire mate
lol
Perhaps you could incorporate one of those fans they put on top of wood burners to push more air/oxygen into the burner using the heat to run the fan.
I like that idea mate
Ooh a sterling engine would be perfect for that!
Awesomest! 🎉
lol - it was cool!
Do not "hoverheat" the oil in order to avoid cloghing the tube and the jet. At list ad a "baffle" in front to the jet in order to have hight temperature combustion 👍
Thanks for the info!
1984F. Melting point of copper.
Maybe you could also use a smaller diameter pipe to reduce the amount of oconsumed fuel, then, with less fuel, the air intake should provide enough oxigen to achieve a complete burn
I could always just drill one hole in the end cap. - I drilled 3
Hmm I pondering a tuneable version. Fire tube sections like a ariel with air tubes with valve ??? Tune for different fuel or output vs efficiency.
interesting idea mate - cheers
why put sand in the copper pipe?
1678 adds a blower and pyrolates.
i don't want to add a blower - i would prefer this wasn't powered in nay way to be honest
I would love to see the Rocket stove ,& the Primus stove use Glycerol as the fuel.
It will release a lot of acrolein fumes though.
I am thinking about ti mate
you want to pre heat the air somehow. if that oxigen is preheated you'll get a much cleaner burn.
I prefer babbington oil atomising burners.... If the atomising gas is at high enough pressure they're able to burn oil with a blue flame.
yeah they are good but don't they use compressed air?
@@ThinkingandTinkering usually...
But they'll work just as well powered by steam from a small boiler, which needn't be much more than coiled microbore.
Something like a little bike pump to get some pressure into them for starting, then once boiler heats up the steam will keep it going.
I used your design. Instead of wood to start I use your other idea and placed oiled a bit of carbon fiber felt and placed in coils and lit it.
Ooo a poncho
makes me feel like a superhero lol
Has anyone used a gutted auto engine void of it's reciprocating parts and the intake valve's, cam and rockers to make a wood or waste oil heater? On a V8 the exhaust would exit the point of where the carburetor bolted on. It could also be plumbed to produce hot water.
Engines are typically rather pricey.
I haven't seen one mate - but interesting idea
What about a parallel oxygen coil to super heat the oxygen?
to be honest mate - I don't know - I have been pondering blow torches! they used tomato kerosene versions of that
Sorry, this will NOT work for long on Veg oil or WMO. I guarantee it. The copper tube will clag with deposits in no time and the thing will not burn. Diesel, Kero, biodiesel, Fine, they burn clean. WVO and Diesel, you'll be lucky to put 2 L though it.
Very surprised you didn't do more home work on this and provide better information. I was playing with things like this 20 years ago and thought it would be common knowledge you could not run this on waste oil.
I have a similar stove design on my channel which I designed to run on waste oils and while it does need a poke with a screwdriver and a shake out to remove the clag, you can get reasonable hours of heat out the thing before you need to clean it.
Doing this for waste oil would only be a waste of time and Money!
👍🙏❤
cheers mate
😎😉
cheers mate
Do you ever sleep lol
lol
Burning biodiesel is a waste of time, effort and money. Veg oil will burn just fine on it's own, I have done it. I just had a drip feed going into my wood stove. Regarding your heating sand as a heat store I am giving it a go in my stealth cabin. Take out the gas outlet fill the gas bottle with sand and heat it over my kerosene stove turn off and go to bed. I will make a video.
Thanks for sharing - give me a heads up when the video is up will you?
Will do this stealth cabin is awesome by the way sticking it to the man.
A proper vortex/rocket stove will burn coal with NO pollution! ---------- You have an energy problem in Europe, get building turn out a top version, build a factory ------ be a billionaire and save the planet!
Was extremely interested. BUT this is re-inventing the wheel. RUclipsr Gerry (from Ireland) at GerrysDiy has a series of videos on creating a large waste oil burner to heat his workshop. These are now several year old. He uses old gas canisters and oil drums with great success. His working prototype and proof of concept was with biscuit tins and tin cans. Using a drip feed system into the heat pan resulting in temperatures that you mention with controllable flow rate.
oil burner heaters, diesel heaters, rocket stoves etc etc etc have all been around for decades if not centuries - so - in a sense it is always reinventing the wheel. But if you think about it having an easily made insert you can slide into a pre-existing rocket stove to adapt it to burn oil is pretty clever - even if I say so myself lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering - my point is that there is no need for a pressurised system to create a jet of flame with a continual heat source; to get the same effect for less (of whatever liquid) fuel with an initial burn and slow drip feed onto it. Check it out, it is superb. The more people know this the more they will ask to keep their spent oil at garages from service. Incidentally garages currently have to pay for oil removal; will save them money if it’s taken by tinkerers like us.
@@edwardsierpowski3839 i do apologise mate - I did indeed miss the point - I have seen Gerrys videos as part of the research I did for this - so I know what you mean - I thought I would just be repeating what he did and couldn't see the point of that but I will take on board what you say and have a rethink - cheers
Hey Rob, I somehow ended up unsubbed from you (probably my fault!)
Seems I have a lot of recent solar stuff to catch up on!
Have you got any other social media, like a Discord or something? I'd love to share some the info about my experiments with the Zinc Bromine battery with the community.
good to have you back mate - I am afraid I don't use many social media networks - youtube is pretty much all I can keep up with tbh but there is a discord group discord.gg/aFuTTdy8J8
How to generate strong uniform magnetic field i a closed area of 1 cubic feet. Does any gas have high permiability?🧲