@@electricianron_New_Jersey Hi Ron, What advantages do we gain if we use Insulated Neutrals in the example from this video of yours uploaded on Feb 24, 2023 ruclips.net/video/LHTzW4DC_fI/видео.html versus Bare Neutrals for connection between the Main Service Panel to the Meter Base to the Utility Service Mast?
In California, most homes in the coastal areas and built within the last 50 years with overhead service use a combined meter-circuit breaker panel (load center) located outdoors and recessed into the outside wall. The service entrance cable is contained within metal conduit pipe that runs up inside the external wall and exits through the roof. The conduit can extend up to 3 ft above the roof with a weather head. The service hook is connected to the pipe below the service head. I find that usually individual THHN cables are used in the conduit rather than service entrance cable from the weather head to the panel.
Our house was built in 1974, we bought it in 1998. Just now having our Federal Pacific main Panel replaced. I even bought new replacement breakers for this panel, before I found out that those breakers were failing also! Nice job Ron!
When I started wiring houses back in 2001 we were wiring new houses all the time. My boss and I drove in the ground rod outside (yes Long Island only requires 1) we built the entire service, no drop to house yet since it new construction. A few weeks later my boss got a call. The water company hooked up water main at road and had no pressure. Needed up that when we drove ground rod we went right through th brand new copper water main and had no idea because it wasn’t hooked up yet. What are the odds, good time. God rest his soul. Miss you “whitey”
Electrical Inspector here from Texas. It’s awesome to see work from other states and compare the similarities. I very much enjoy you videos and commentary 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
federal pacific was sued out of existence and most homeowners insurance companys will not cover you if you still have an active FP service...back in the day when you could still get a FP breaker at your local supply house they would always ask you if you would like a fire extinguisher with that,,,lol the problem with FP breakers is they would never trip they would just arch weld inside the panel.
Ron... excellent video! Few in Jersey talk about the dangers of FPE breakers and breaker boxes. In my old neighborhood, every single home had FPE panels and breakers, and I watched two of those homes burn down thanks to them. Both fires started at the breaker boxes. How they are still in service with no recalls is beyond my understanding.
There’s a lot of information online but as the story goes FPE manipulated their products during the listing process. There’s news clips from several decades ago.
Ron, I really appreciate what you put into these instructional videos. I know some from years of being around electricians, but the details you include have made all the difference in my education about the "why fors" in what you do. A BIG Azz thank you, your knowledge and presentation are over the top.
My entire neighborhood is 1960's FPE panels, mostly original. A few of us wiser homeowners have had them replaced with all new service and panels. (Easily identifiable by who has new service entrance heads.) Most homeowners and realtors seem unaware of the danger or don't care. Thankfully, I can't recall any electrical fires here despite that. Fools grilling in their garages seem to cause the fires here, not the FPE panels. :-)
That duck seal almost reminds me of the stuff they used to use on the railways for everything from wire entry, to seating lenses in place on signal lights.
AZ and Cali outdoor panels WTH? Haha, coming from AZ and worked in southern Cali for 20 years AZ, NV, and NM as well, I can tell ya weather is mostly great year around. But mostly it's for fire department to disconnect power and housing developments cutting cost with meter combo panels. Helps with solar installation times too.
Ron, love your work, and above that, love that you share your work with others. I know that Connecticut Electric makes listed replacement breakers to FPE, but I cannot in a good conscience add a circuit to a panel where three existing breakers fall out of their positions while I am putting a listed replacement in. So, it's a full replacement, or I don't want to touch it.... Thank you again, Ron for making our weekend with a new video.
I actually saw more failure rates from older general electric panels with breakers failing and damaging busbars which usually led to a panel replacement . I did do a few FPEs . GE was my top panel replacement followed by Challenger and zinsco Now there was probably more of them out there but I did run into existing FPE panels still in operation on occasion with no visible difficulties .
When I did a service or panel replacement I always removed the short flimsy screws from 100 amp circuit breakers and applied a thin coat of noxid paste on them. Several times in damp basements found the screws corroded where they could not be loosened. Was told that yes a panel can be installed by a door that opens up blocking it.
Crowded spaces are no fun. Parents had their Fed Pac replaced 10 years ago (fortunately no issues ever occurred in the house). Panel was also in a confined space. Felt bad for the installer and took down the facade walls and paneling so he could get into the space. Oh the 1970’s were not happy I desecrated the full paneling basement. 😂
Retired service tech from Schneider electric now living in AZ. I recently had problems with my outdoor 200 amp service. Had to replace a 30 amp circuit breaker for my outdoor AC unit. I took a temperature reading of the outside of the box when the sun was going down and would hit the box. The temperature was 150 degrees F. I found the high temperature out here causes nuisance c!b tripping and c/b failures. Way different than PA.
Journeyman Electrician from Omaha, NE. Love the channel Ron. I appreciate how detailed you are in your videos and that you take the time to explain things. As we all know, you're never to old to learn new things and in this trade we always learn something new. Keep doing what you do brotha. Props from the midwest
Well done Ron! Yes, we here in East Tennessee do things a little different than you guys in the Northeast. But that's what I enjoy seeing - how you guys do things. Keep it up! 👍
@@arnieselectric007 Hey Arnie! Yes, I do watch him from time-to-time. After 42 years in the electric industry, I still enjoy learning and seeing how others around the country are doing things.
If the house is equipped with gas stove and water heater, the upgrade to 200 A may not be justified. If it has a gas clothes dryer (not very common), even less.
Inspiring stuff for this 2nd year apprentice! In my old stomping grounds of Cranford, too. Love the idea of being out there on my own one day, like you are.
I learn so much from your video's - thank you. Question - I don't see you torquing any of your connectors or breakers? Is this something you do behind the scenes?
great video, just found you on youtube, observation/comment aren't multi-conductor branch circuits required to be on two-pole breakers, great video, great workmanship, keep up the good work
Yeah those Federal Pacific panels are still around and they should be replaced asap. Apparently up in Canada there was a separate company called Federal Pioneer, and their panels use the same Stab-lok breakers but apparently there was never a problem with those panels. They aren't made anymore but Schneider Electric still makes replacement breakers for Canadian customers who still have those panels.
There's a company in the U.S. that still remanufactures breakers for aftermarket panels such as Federal Pacific, Wadsworth, ITE pushamatic, and Zinsco. Connecticut Electric distributes them through Home Depot on line. They state that they're manufactured and listed to the latest UL standards.
Unfortunately SE cable is not allowed to be used as a service riser here in my municipality. We have to use RMC or IMC for The riser from the meter hub up with a weather head on top. We can use aluminum se cable for sub panel feeders. We can aluminum feeders for appliance and equipment feeds in residential and of course cooper branch circuits.
it's easier to put the SE cable through the LB before pipe is placed on either side. same goes for all conduit, if you can, run the wire as your installing the conduit. not all places will allow that, but we did underground SE's that way, no fish tape needed shove it through a section/fittings then glue it, repeat until the end. often times we didn't even drop it in the trench until done. I'm sure we got by with many things in the mid 1990's 🤣
You stated ground rods must be 6' apart. Was told at several IAEI classes that they have to be at least far apart as rod length. So the 8' ground rod we all use must be at least 8' aoart. If you used 10' ground rods they wlu!d have to be st least 19' apart. Next time that you have time try using two ground rods tied together to illuminate a 120 volt 60 watt incandescent lamp. In the summer might look like a 3 watt lamp and below freezing weather forget about it. You can reduce to resistance like old Ma Bell guys did many moons ago. Would install some kind of salt solution or if in a hurry just piss on ground rod.
In canada we have federal pioneer panels that are the same design as fpe but made in canada subject to canadian standards. i've read that they're regarded as save b/c they never had issues with fake approvals, but independent testing has shown the breakers perform similar to federal pacific. new breakers for those canadian panels still sold but with same flawed design*. testing has shown new replacement stab-locks have worse performance than originals. *the pictures in one engineering report show they're the same design and neither seem to have magnetic short circuit protection, only thermal which won't trip as fast if there's a short.
I’ve got a older couple that need to have their 200 amp fp replaced but they are not much older than me and they don’t have the money even to pay me really. But I figure they will soon I’m 67 and I’ve been doing electrical since 13 years old never been licensed but learned under one.
My city requires that the SE in the weather be in conduit - North Alabama We can use it from the meter to the panel without conduit if less than 6 feet.
Also FPE breakers are backwards from other breakers when they are on and off. On is toward the outside and off is to the inside. Which is actually a code violation.
Was watching a couple of guys build a "mini house" out of an old trailer bed, and old pallets like stuff is shipped in. Turned out beautiful, until they ran the electric. I had to cringe when I saw them wire a range top and an AC unit with stranded 12 gage extension cord. I was on board until I saw that. That's a major fire waiting for a place to happen.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey what he means to say is that in MD and DC, we are now required to use KENNY CLAMPS (or equivalent in some counties). It’s a requirement from the local AHJ
I like replacements but upgrade typically to 200amp. The problem I come across is while doung replacements, fixing all the wire issues due to safety. I have not seen you discuss other safety issues as you are replacing panels. That is what steals my time. Thanks.
I am glad you said what brand of panel you are using.I thoughtI saw where you could use Bryant breakers in a Cutler Hammer panel? I was always under the impression you should only use the propriety Cutler Hammer breakers. I understand you should use the special coating on Aluminum conductors absolutely.But what if you are using Copper conductors on your service entrance ? Square D and Cutler Hammer are more widely used in Michigan where I live. I prefer the Qo Square D breakers and panels to the cheaper Homeline panels. What do you think of the lightening arrestors for the panel? Is there a whole house surge protector available for the panel? Where should ARC fault breakers be used? I know I have asked you a great many questions but if you could answer them I would appreciate it!
I have one in my home. I couldn't find an electrician 8 years ago to do the work. I need to update before I sell the home or catch a fire. It's worked fine in the last 9 years I've been there.
Great video like always Ron. I'm an electrician out of California. I like watching your videos and like watching how it's done in other states. I noticed that you did not install a "BR TYPE HOLD DOWN SCREW KIT" on the main breaker. Is it not required in New Jersey?
Whenever a customer asked my opion on do they have to replace their POS FP or worse yet Zinco panels. Told them if they don't they should have a sprinkler system thru out the house, plenty of fire insurance, fire alarm panel etc. In my area we never use Duc seal ton top of a weatherproof connector ( they are UL approved for wet locations ) . Can not remember reading maybe 30 years ago if FP or Zinco lied about the results from their self testing telling them they had a major problem with their so many of their breakers coming off the manufacturing line did not properly trip. When these scum bags companies are finally taken to court besides a fine the CEO & other nogoodnics must serve prison time.
It is awesome that the power company lets you disconnect/reconnect the meter and overhead service drop. In the part of Iowa I'm in, the power company doesnt want us touching the meter or cutting the service drop. Its frustrating, I end up spending a bunch of time waiting on the power company
I did some electrical work at my home. I cut the metal tag off, pulled the meter, did what needed done, then had the power company re-tag it when they made their rounds. It's not really an issue in some places, unless they have reason to believe someone is illegally tapping.
Love ur vids but helpful tip I try to prep the meter before I have the seu connected and mounted to house so I would take out my KO and knock the holes out of back prior
Hey Ron, thanks for another great video. Are those cable boots on the service lines where they connect to breakers inside the panel? Seems like you were fidgeting with them for a while and were maybe unsure how they’re supposed to stay put. Is that top flap with the holes in it that you were playing with supposed to slide into a slot on the side of the breaker maybe? Seems like that might be the reason they have holes in them, so that if slid into a slot, some raised bumps inside the slot would fit into the holes in the flap and partly “lock” the boot into place. Also, watching you connect the service drop lines, the thought occurred to me, would different precautions be in order when connecting to a metal structure like a steel garage or shed, for example? The idea of being 24 feet up on ladder while connecting live lines always makes me very nervous.
Yeah big props to him for solo sweating through the days! I think he may have seniority over most other employees: (unless it's a one man operation from boot)
Hi Electrician Ron, You know how they say listening to Bach can make a person more intelligent because of his mathematical precision( point and counterpoint); your channel is excellent for improving one's intelligence. What they should be saying is, "'watching Electrician Ron's channel makes a person more intelligent." Well done!! Would I be correct in believing that you have teaching experience at a local community college or some other institution of higher education?
I was surprised that he didn't put 2 pole 15a breakers on the 3 conductor bx cable. Multi wire branch circuits will have have current on the second breaker that's still on.
awesome job Ron am going start doing what you do i like the method you do with the painted plywood template it is a nicer good thanks for videos be safe 👍
Rookies Questions : Why (2) outside grounds, and not just the (1)? Is that code? Is you have to add 15/20 amp breakers would you distribute as evenly as you could on each phase? If a ground bar will/does allow for (2) grounds, say 2/3 #14's, would you double them to save a spot on the bar when installing for future add on per say? When you put in the ground rods, why the distance out from the house ( to protect foundation from water, or is there a distance per code away from the home? I know you said (6 feet apart from each rod). Just picking your brain there for knowledge. Great work. Thanks for the time and effort after long days of self labor. esp to edit and upload etc.
Only (1) ground rod is required if you can prove to the inspector you have 25 ohms or less to earth. If not, then (2) grounds are required. Equal distribution of circuits on a single-phase service is null and void. It does not matter. If the panel specs (2) equipment grounds per grounding terminal than you are good to use (2) EGC’s of the same size (#12/ 14 AWG). The spacing of the ground rods is 6 feet because the soil could be different at that distance (I think).
Why PVC out the bottom if you just do exposed cable up the house out of the top of the meter? Why not exposed Service Entrance exposed out the bottom as well?
Have you had any install requests for energy monitoring panels like the Leviton Load Center or the Sense Energy Monitor/Square D Wiser? That would be interesting to see.
Regarding a sub-panel located within a few feet of main panel using copper wire, am I looking at 4-4-4-6 wire for 100-amp or do we use 3 awg under the 75 degree column? I don’t mean to sound dumb, just curious. I appreciate your narration - wonderful job.
CA requires main service disconnect outside now and they love integrated meter base panel units so that's why some homes have the main panel outside. However here in SF most homes have it in the garage including the meter, though the rules very recently changed not to allow that.
The exterior service disconnect is just so much safer for firefighters. My house in Texas was built with one in 2000 but I’m not sure if it was the usual case. My home was custom built by an engineer and it shows all over the place in features that were way ahead of their time.
Hi Ron, I really enjoy your videos! Very informative. I do have a quick question (kinda dumb question, actually): The foldable work table you used on this job, who makes it? and where can I purchase it? I live in the Chicago, so we do have all the big box stores. I do handy work around my house and that table would be beneficial to me. Appreciate your time. Thank you and keep up the great workmanship!
When you tie in the new entrance cable to the triplex are you aloud in your area to do the work energized? Or do you have to have the PoCo disconnect at the pole?
I've seen with stranded wire to tighten, work the wire side to side, tighten again, repeat till the screw doesn't move anymore, is that necessary? Also noticed that you didn't use anti-oxidant on utility side of the splice, was that on purpose? Thanks for all of these videos!
Oh, how I wish I could find an electrician like you here in Denver area. I have this exact FPE panel in my house that needs to be replaced, plus my service entrance which is also a FPE main disconnect panel. Just trying to find someone to give you an estimate around here is like finding hens teeth let alone someone you can trust with your work ethic. Without getting to nosey, what's the price range for doing an upgrade change-out like the one in this video.
Hey Ron Great info and videos. I always wondered what is the main driver to installing the services with service entrance cables instead of conduit. Is it a financial option given to the customer, where one is less than the other? I see both here in PA and I've seen you use each one in a couple of your videos so I'm curious what makes your decision one way or the other.
Thats really odd the way they ran the circuit for the air handler. Never seen that before. Must have been in the good old days where you could get away with murder in the trades!
6:00 - If you're running PVC conduit to the panel, then why not just run individual XHHW conductors rather than SE cable? I thought the cable was intended to be exposed rather than run in conduit.
Might me a dumb question but why does the neutral cable have no insulation around it if it carries return current? Because wouldn't when you have to run it through the circuit panel it would touch the metal box causing issues and what about arcing? Again this might be a dumb question so sorry. Love your videos
I have a question, it looks like you are dealing with a bunch of multiwire branch circuits on the left side of the panel with the red and the black conductors. Aren’t you supposed to make sure that each multiwire branch circuit is served with a double pole breaker so if one side shorts, they both trip?.
What is the "fifth jaw" in the meter base? Is it loop of wire that the neutral goes through, like a clamp meter, which an ammeter can be hooked to on the outside to monitor neutral conductor current?
Just curious, the hot conductors on the left are red and black, doesn't that indicate that they are either 220 or multi wire branch circuits ? Doesn't that require that both breakers that are in a black/red pair have a mechanical link between the breakers ? I don't know if those covers that you are adding on the main service entry wires are required, but I really like those. It's a nice touch.
And just when I thought my Friday couldn’t get any better, Ron hits us with a new upload🎉
Happy to hear you look forward to them! Thanks man!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Hi Ron,
What advantages do we gain if we use Insulated Neutrals in the example from this video of yours uploaded on Feb 24, 2023
ruclips.net/video/LHTzW4DC_fI/видео.html
versus Bare Neutrals for connection between the Main Service Panel to the Meter Base to the Utility Service Mast?
In California, most homes in the coastal areas and built within the last 50 years with overhead service use a combined meter-circuit breaker panel (load center) located outdoors and recessed into the outside wall. The service entrance cable is contained within metal conduit pipe that runs up inside the external wall and exits through the roof. The conduit can extend up to 3 ft above the roof with a weather head. The service hook is connected to the pipe below the service head. I find that usually individual THHN cables are used in the conduit rather than service entrance cable from the weather head to the panel.
Our house was built in 1974, we bought it in 1998. Just now having our Federal Pacific main Panel replaced. I even bought new replacement breakers for this panel, before I found out that those breakers were failing also! Nice job Ron!
When I started wiring houses back in 2001 we were wiring new houses all the time. My boss and I drove in the ground rod outside (yes Long Island only requires 1) we built the entire service, no drop to house yet since it new construction. A few weeks later my boss got a call. The water company hooked up water main at road and had no pressure. Needed up that when we drove ground rod we went right through th brand new copper water main and had no idea because it wasn’t hooked up yet. What are the odds, good time. God rest his soul. Miss you “whitey”
I remember those days driving only (1) ground rod. Around here we call 811 before we dig but the ground rods are estimated guess.
Thank goodness one more FPE panel in the trash where it should be
Your workmanship is excellent
Thank you very much!
Electrical Inspector here from Texas. It’s awesome to see work from other states and compare the similarities. I very much enjoy you videos and commentary 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Right on
federal pacific was sued out of existence and most homeowners insurance companys will not cover you if you still have an active FP service...back in the day when you could still get a FP breaker at your local supply house they would always ask you if you would like a fire extinguisher with that,,,lol the problem with FP breakers is they would never trip they would just arch weld inside the panel.
Very true!
Ron... excellent video! Few in Jersey talk about the dangers of FPE breakers and breaker boxes. In my old neighborhood, every single home had FPE panels and breakers, and I watched two of those homes burn down thanks to them. Both fires started at the breaker boxes. How they are still in service with no recalls is beyond my understanding.
There’s a lot of information online but as the story goes FPE manipulated their products during the listing process. There’s news clips from several decades ago.
Ron, I really appreciate what you put into these instructional videos. I know some from years of being around electricians, but the details you include have made all the difference in my education about the "why fors" in what you do.
A BIG Azz thank you, your knowledge and presentation are over the top.
My entire neighborhood is 1960's FPE panels, mostly original. A few of us wiser homeowners have had them replaced with all new service and panels. (Easily identifiable by who has new service entrance heads.) Most homeowners and realtors seem unaware of the danger or don't care. Thankfully, I can't recall any electrical fires here despite that. Fools grilling in their garages seem to cause the fires here, not the FPE panels. :-)
That duck seal almost reminds me of the stuff they used to use on the railways for everything from wire entry, to seating lenses in place on signal lights.
AZ and Cali outdoor panels WTH? Haha, coming from AZ and worked in southern Cali for 20 years AZ, NV, and NM as well, I can tell ya weather is mostly great year around. But mostly it's for fire department to disconnect power and housing developments cutting cost with meter combo panels. Helps with solar installation times too.
Texas has a lot of panels on the outside too
My home had two 200-Amp Federal Pacific Service Panels. I had them replaced for about $5K total. I'm glad I did!
Great job!! The attention to detail is what separates workers from the professionals.
Ron, love your work, and above that, love that you share your work with others.
I know that Connecticut Electric makes listed replacement breakers to FPE, but I cannot in a good conscience add a circuit to a panel where three existing breakers fall out of their positions while I am putting a listed replacement in. So, it's a full replacement, or I don't want to touch it....
Thank you again, Ron for making our weekend with a new video.
I actually saw more failure rates from older general electric panels with breakers failing and damaging busbars which usually led to a panel replacement . I did do a few FPEs . GE was my top panel replacement followed by Challenger and zinsco Now there was probably more of them out there but I did run into existing FPE panels still in operation on occasion with no visible difficulties .
1st time viewer. I had a FPE panel in our house when we bought it 8 years ago. Swapped it out within the 1st year. Not worth the risk to the family.
When I did a service or panel replacement I always removed the short flimsy screws from 100 amp circuit breakers and applied a thin coat of noxid paste on them. Several times in damp basements found the screws corroded where they could not be loosened. Was told that yes a panel can be installed by a door that opens up blocking it.
Crowded spaces are no fun. Parents had their Fed Pac replaced 10 years ago (fortunately no issues ever occurred in the house). Panel was also in a confined space. Felt bad for the installer and took down the facade walls and paneling so he could get into the space. Oh the 1970’s were not happy I desecrated the full paneling basement. 😂
I tried to be as neat as possible but I had to do what I had to do.
Retired service tech from Schneider electric now living in AZ. I recently had problems with my outdoor 200 amp service. Had to replace a 30 amp circuit breaker for my outdoor AC unit. I took a temperature reading of the outside of the box when the sun was going down and would hit the box. The temperature was 150 degrees F. I found the high temperature out here causes nuisance c!b tripping and c/b failures. Way different than PA.
Crazy having that equipment outside with the sin blazing down on it.
I enjoy your comments, im from the west coast and like to see your homes on the East side of America
Journeyman Electrician from Omaha, NE. Love the channel Ron.
I appreciate how detailed you are in your videos and that you take the time to explain things.
As we all know, you're never to old to learn new things and in this trade we always learn something new.
Keep doing what you do brotha.
Props from the midwest
Cool, thanks
YOU ARE THE BEST RON I LIKE THE WAY U INSTALL THE SERVICE PANEL I HOPE I CAN WATCHING MORE VIDEO GOOD JOB
Thank you.
Well done Ron! Yes, we here in East Tennessee do things a little different than you guys in the Northeast. But that's what I enjoy seeing - how you guys do things. Keep it up! 👍
Hey Roy, do you watch "The Electrical Code Coach" He's in Tennessee also...
@@arnieselectric007 Hey Arnie! Yes, I do watch him from time-to-time. After 42 years in the electric industry, I still enjoy learning and seeing how others around the country are doing things.
Ron, I watch and learn much from watching your work videos, thank you. Also enjoy the high production value of the various tempo musical riffs.
;
As always great work But I got a question with all the electronic devices around these days wouldn't have been ideas to upgrade to a 200 amp service
I'm assuming size of dwelling and perhaps price may have been a factor. I would also have suggested the 200amp upgrade.
If the house is equipped with gas stove and water heater, the upgrade to 200 A may not be justified. If it has a gas clothes dryer (not very common), even less.
You install what the customer is willing to pay for.
They are selling it, so just doing the minimum. Need to ditch the FPE panel.
Inspiring stuff for this 2nd year apprentice! In my old stomping grounds of Cranford, too. Love the idea of being out there on my own one day, like you are.
Work hard and get in the classroom as soon as possible. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful workmanship.
Another great video. Each time I watch your videos I learn little tips and tricks especially with upgrading service entrances. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it helpful!
Another excellent job. Thanks for taking us along!
Our pleasure!
As a new home owner this is a ver informative channel. Watched a few of your videos so far since it came up on my feed.
I learn so much from your video's - thank you. Question - I don't see you torquing any of your connectors or breakers? Is this something you do behind the scenes?
Another near perfect job Ron...You are a great inspiration for all of us tradies brother...
great video, just found you on youtube, observation/comment aren't multi-conductor branch circuits required to be on two-pole breakers, great video, great workmanship, keep up the good work
Yes they are and they were installed prior to inspection.
Ron nice clean work good video, multiwire branch circuits require 2 pole circuit breakers or handle ties 210-4B
They’ll be installed prior to the final inspection. It’s actually not required under the Rehab sub code here but I do it anyway.
Yeah those Federal Pacific panels are still around and they should be replaced asap. Apparently up in Canada there was a separate company called Federal Pioneer, and their panels use the same Stab-lok breakers but apparently there was never a problem with those panels. They aren't made anymore but Schneider Electric still makes replacement breakers for Canadian customers who still have those panels.
There's a company in the U.S. that still remanufactures breakers for aftermarket panels such as Federal Pacific, Wadsworth, ITE pushamatic, and Zinsco. Connecticut Electric distributes them through Home Depot on line. They state that they're manufactured and listed to the latest UL standards.
@@jolyonwelsh9834 I had no idea, that is good to know!
I have one in my house!
Enjoy your video, you seem to be a good guy who cares about the customer and getting the job done right.
Unfortunately SE cable is not allowed to be used as a service riser here in my municipality. We have to use RMC or IMC for
The riser from the meter hub up with a weather head on top. We can use aluminum se cable for sub panel feeders. We can aluminum feeders for appliance and equipment feeds in residential and of course cooper branch circuits.
it's easier to put the SE cable through the LB before pipe is placed on either side. same goes for all conduit, if you can, run the wire as your installing the conduit.
not all places will allow that, but we did underground SE's that way, no fish tape needed shove it through a section/fittings then glue it, repeat until the end. often times we didn't even drop it in the trench until done. I'm sure we got by with many things in the mid 1990's 🤣
I enjoy watching the videos. Thank you for taking the time to film and edit this kind of stuff.
Great video, I know I definitely would’ve taken the door off the hinges that kept hitting you.
Good call!
Just in time for a Saturday breakfast and a video treat to go along with it!!! Thanks Ron! Loved it!
Hope you enjoy
You stated ground rods must be 6' apart. Was told at several IAEI classes that they have to be at least far apart as rod length. So the 8' ground rod we all use must be at least 8' aoart. If you used 10' ground rods they wlu!d have to be st least 19' apart. Next time that you have time try using two ground rods tied together to illuminate a 120 volt 60 watt incandescent lamp. In the summer might look like a 3 watt lamp and below freezing weather forget about it. You can reduce to resistance like old Ma Bell guys did many moons ago. Would install some kind of salt solution or if in a hurry just piss on ground rod.
In canada we have federal pioneer panels that are the same design as fpe but made in canada subject to canadian standards. i've read that they're regarded as save b/c they never had issues with fake approvals, but independent testing has shown the breakers perform similar to federal pacific. new breakers for those canadian panels still sold but with same flawed design*. testing has shown new replacement stab-locks have worse performance than originals.
*the pictures in one engineering report show they're the same design and neither seem to have magnetic short circuit protection, only thermal which won't trip as fast if there's a short.
I’ve got a older couple that need to have their 200 amp fp replaced but they are not much older than me and they don’t have the money even to pay me really. But I figure they will soon I’m 67 and I’ve been doing electrical since 13 years old never been licensed but learned under one.
My city requires that the SE in the weather be in conduit - North Alabama
We can use it from the meter to the panel without conduit if less than 6 feet.
Your videos are really helpful. Real world stuff. Thanks again.
Also FPE breakers are backwards from other breakers when they are on and off. On is toward the outside and off is to the inside. Which is actually a code violation.
Pretty much all of the southwest states require the main panel to be outside, including Colorado.
Was watching a couple of guys build a "mini house" out of an old trailer bed, and old pallets like stuff is shipped in.
Turned out beautiful, until they ran the electric. I had to cringe when I saw them wire a range top and an AC unit with stranded 12 gage extension cord.
I was on board until I saw that. That's a major fire waiting for a place to happen.
In MD we use ground wire connectors and Min. 150amp service
Sounds good but 100A is the minimum and GEC’s do not require connectors.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey what he means to say is that in MD and DC, we are now required to use KENNY CLAMPS (or equivalent in some counties). It’s a requirement from the local AHJ
Man that is crazy that a service entrance isn’t required to be put in ridged conduit ! Great video
Here from CA and yes Panels r required to be install outdoors by garage. Here!
I like replacements but upgrade typically to 200amp. The problem I come across is while doung replacements, fixing all the wire issues due to safety. I have not seen you discuss other safety issues as you are replacing panels. That is what steals my time. Thanks.
I am glad you said what brand of panel you are using.I thoughtI saw where you could use Bryant breakers in a Cutler Hammer panel? I was always under the impression you should only use the propriety Cutler Hammer breakers. I understand you should use the special coating on Aluminum conductors absolutely.But what if you are using Copper conductors on your service entrance ? Square D and Cutler Hammer are more widely used in Michigan where I live. I prefer the Qo Square D breakers and panels to the cheaper Homeline panels. What do you think of the lightening arrestors for the panel? Is there a whole house surge protector available for the panel? Where should ARC fault breakers be used? I know I have asked you a great many questions but if you could answer them I would appreciate it!
Such neat work
I have one in my home. I couldn't find an electrician 8 years ago to do the work. I need to update before I sell the home or catch a fire. It's worked fine in the last 9 years I've been there.
The trouble is the circuit breakers don’t always work when you need them to! You’ve been or safe, maybe a little of both.
11/2 pvc is easier with 2 seu. 2 1/2 is easier for 4/0 seu. Fyi. Not much cost diffrent
Great job!!!! Mr Ron👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
You would make an excellent electrical shop teacher
Funny you should say that. First, thank you. Second, I am training to become a teacher at the IEC.
Great video like always Ron. I'm an electrician out of California. I like watching your videos and like watching how it's done in other states. I noticed that you did not install a "BR TYPE HOLD DOWN SCREW KIT" on the main breaker. Is it not required in New Jersey?
@ 17:01 It looks as if it has a metallic HD arm screwed to the panel.
Yes, the main breaker is mechanically attached from the factory.
Whenever a customer asked my opion on do they have to replace their POS FP or worse yet Zinco panels. Told them if they don't they should have a sprinkler system thru out the house, plenty of fire insurance, fire alarm panel etc. In my area we never use Duc seal ton top of a weatherproof connector ( they are UL approved for wet locations ) . Can not remember reading maybe 30 years ago if FP or Zinco lied about the results from their self testing telling them they had a major problem with their so many of their breakers coming off the manufacturing line did not properly trip. When these scum bags companies are finally taken to court besides a fine the CEO & other nogoodnics must serve prison time.
Those connectors will not stay weatherproof for long. The duct seal is probably required by the utility specs.
It is awesome that the power company lets you disconnect/reconnect the meter and overhead service drop. In the part of Iowa I'm in, the power company doesnt want us touching the meter or cutting the service drop. Its frustrating, I end up spending a bunch of time waiting on the power company
I did some electrical work at my home. I cut the metal tag off, pulled the meter, did what needed done, then had the power company re-tag it when they made their rounds. It's not really an issue in some places, unless they have reason to believe someone is illegally tapping.
Love ur vids but helpful tip I try to prep the meter before I have the seu connected and mounted to house so I would take out my KO and knock the holes out of back prior
Hey Ron, thanks for another great video.
Are those cable boots on the service lines where they connect to breakers inside the panel? Seems like you were fidgeting with them for a while and were maybe unsure how they’re supposed to stay put. Is that top flap with the holes in it that you were playing with supposed to slide into a slot on the side of the breaker maybe? Seems like that might be the reason they have holes in them, so that if slid into a slot, some raised bumps inside the slot would fit into the holes in the flap and partly “lock” the boot into place.
Also, watching you connect the service drop lines, the thought occurred to me, would different precautions be in order when connecting to a metal structure like a steel garage or shed, for example? The idea of being 24 feet up on ladder while connecting live lines always makes me very nervous.
The protective covers were adjusted and installed properly. The one flap gets removed for flush finish.
Changing Electrical Code (recent, here) to have Main Cutoff at Meter Location for
New Construction.
Ron used Pentrox (NoAlox) - SMART !
There's a Mike Holt video where they drove 50 feet of ground rod before they measured under 25 ohms.
NEV video? I love watching his content!
This is one of my fav electrical channels 🫡 knocking work out solo 👍🏽, great teaching as well 👍🏽
I appreciate that!
Yeah big props to him for solo sweating through the days! I think he may have seniority over most other employees: (unless it's a one man operation from boot)
Hi Electrician Ron, You know how they say listening to Bach can make a person more intelligent because of his mathematical precision( point and counterpoint); your channel is excellent for improving one's intelligence. What they should be saying is, "'watching Electrician Ron's channel makes a person more intelligent." Well done!! Would I be correct in believing that you have teaching experience at a local community college or some other institution of higher education?
Like the addition of that music! Nice work
Hey Ron, why not two pole breakers or handle tie for those multi wire branch circuits?
I was surprised that he didn't put 2 pole 15a breakers on the 3 conductor bx cable. Multi wire branch circuits will have have current on the second breaker that's still on.
This was awhile ago but I def went back before inspection with the right breakers.
On a MWBC the neutral carries the imbalance current, not the other line line a series circuit.
awesome job Ron am going start doing what you do i like the method you do with the painted plywood template it is a nicer good thanks for videos be safe 👍
Do your best work and the success follows.
Another great video! I look forward to them!!
Thanks glad you’re enjoying the videos Travis!
Rookies Questions : Why (2) outside grounds, and not just the (1)? Is that code?
Is you have to add 15/20 amp breakers would you distribute as evenly as you could on each phase?
If a ground bar will/does allow for (2) grounds, say 2/3 #14's, would you double them to save a spot on the bar when installing for future add on per say?
When you put in the ground rods, why the distance out from the house ( to protect foundation from water, or is there a distance per code away from the home? I know you said (6 feet apart from each rod).
Just picking your brain there for knowledge.
Great work.
Thanks for the time and effort after long days of self labor. esp to edit and upload etc.
Will, I’m working now and will respond to each of your questions when I get a moment at my desk this evening.
Only (1) ground rod is required if you can prove to the inspector you have 25 ohms or less to earth. If not, then (2) grounds are required.
Equal distribution of circuits on a single-phase service is null and void. It does not matter.
If the panel specs (2) equipment grounds per grounding terminal than you are good to use (2) EGC’s of the same size (#12/ 14 AWG).
The spacing of the ground rods is 6 feet because the soil could be different at that distance (I think).
Don't pound your ground rods too close to the foundation because you may hit the footing which is wider than the foundation wall. BrickSaver LLC
Why PVC out the bottom if you just do exposed cable up the house out of the top of the meter? Why not exposed Service Entrance exposed out the bottom as well?
One reason could be that the PVC provides a better solid surface to provide weather seal through the building envelope against.
@@orcoastgreenman possibly. I thought I’ve seen over the years, they make a type of protector when cable enters house? Not sure though?
I’m from AZ. It’s true all panels are outside lol. And the newer ones have AFCI breakers that bake in the heat all day.
Nice production Ron!
Much appreciated!
Have you had any install requests for energy monitoring panels like the Leviton Load Center or the Sense Energy Monitor/Square D Wiser? That would be interesting to see.
Those are very intricate it seems. I've seen them in solar installs & it makes well hell of a rats nest in the panel.
Regarding a sub-panel located within a few feet of main panel using copper wire, am I looking at 4-4-4-6 wire for 100-amp or do we use 3 awg under the 75 degree column? I don’t mean to sound dumb, just curious. I appreciate your narration - wonderful job.
@ElectricianRon, I thought 200amp service is the norm now when doing a panel replacement ?
This guy was just eliminating the FPE panel to sell the house.
North Carolina also has panels outside as well.
CA requires main service disconnect outside now and they love integrated meter base panel units so that's why some homes have the main panel outside. However here in SF most homes have it in the garage including the meter, though the rules very recently changed not to allow that.
No exterior service disconnect until at least 9/6/23 in New Jersey.
The exterior service disconnect is just so much safer for firefighters. My house in Texas was built with one in 2000 but I’m not sure if it was the usual case. My home was custom built by an engineer and it shows all over the place in features that were way ahead of their time.
Hi Ron, I really enjoy your videos! Very informative. I do have a quick question (kinda dumb question, actually): The foldable work table you used on this job, who makes it? and where can I purchase it? I live in the Chicago, so we do have all the big box stores. I do handy work around my house and that table would be beneficial to me. Appreciate your time. Thank you and keep up the great workmanship!
Great job. Thanks much 🙏
When you tie in the new entrance cable to the triplex are you aloud in your area to do the work energized? Or do you have to have the PoCo disconnect at the pole?
I've seen with stranded wire to tighten, work the wire side to side, tighten again, repeat till the screw doesn't move anymore, is that necessary?
Also noticed that you didn't use anti-oxidant on utility side of the splice, was that on purpose?
Thanks for all of these videos!
Oh, how I wish I could find an electrician like you here in Denver area. I have this exact FPE panel in my house that needs to be replaced, plus my service entrance which is also a FPE main disconnect panel. Just trying to find someone to give you an estimate around here is like finding hens teeth let alone someone you can trust with your work ethic. Without getting to nosey, what's the price range for doing an upgrade change-out like the one in this video.
This one was $2500.00.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey
Thanks Ron
Hey Ron Great info and videos. I always wondered what is the main driver to installing the services with service entrance cables instead of conduit. Is it a financial option given to the customer, where one is less than the other? I see both here in PA and I've seen you use each one in a couple of your videos so I'm curious what makes your decision one way or the other.
Too bad you cannot work in Canada lol I need a panel upgrade in Montreal, your videos are so informative ! thanks
Glad you enjoyed them!
Love the footage. Question? Did you have to install an additional fastener for the 100amp main (NEC 408.36.D) due to the main being Plug-in type?
Comes with that piece of esuipment.
Thats really odd the way they ran the circuit for the air handler. Never seen that before. Must have been in the good old days where you could get away with murder in the trades!
It was a very unprofessional installation.
Latest edition of NEC 2020 when adopted requires an overvoltage SPD on all new and updated services. Articles 230.67 and 242.
Pound sand because here in NJ we use the rehab sub code for existing service upgrade.
Just pointing out a Code change and I typed " when adopted" no reason to get nasty.
you didn't want to put a few twists in the SE to make it more of a challenge feeding it through the conduit?...lol
6:00 - If you're running PVC conduit to the panel, then why not just run individual XHHW conductors rather than SE cable? I thought the cable was intended to be exposed rather than run in conduit.
Love your videos. Thank you for sharing.
Might me a dumb question but why does the neutral cable have no insulation around it if it carries return current? Because wouldn't when you have to run it through the circuit panel it would touch the metal box causing issues and what about arcing? Again this might be a dumb question so sorry. Love your videos
I have a question, it looks like you are dealing with a bunch of multiwire branch circuits on the left side of the panel with the red and the black conductors. Aren’t you supposed to make sure that each multiwire branch circuit is served with a double pole breaker so if one side shorts, they both trip?.
Looked like standard 15 amp breakers. Aren't GFCI, AFCI or CGFI required on some circuits when upgrading?
Not in New Jersey they’re not. Only for new circuits. Like for like here under the rehab sub code.
What is the "fifth jaw" in the meter base? Is it loop of wire that the neutral goes through, like a clamp meter, which an ammeter can be hooked to on the outside to monitor neutral conductor current?
Just curious, the hot conductors on the left are red and black, doesn't that indicate that they are either 220 or multi wire branch circuits ? Doesn't that require that both breakers that are in a black/red pair have a mechanical link between the breakers ? I don't know if those covers that you are adding on the main service entry wires are required, but I really like those. It's a nice touch.
Yes, a MWBC does require a common trip circuit breaker and that’s what’s there.