@@electricianron_New_Jersey Hi Ron, What advantages do we gain if we use Insulated Neutrals in the example from this video of yours uploaded on Feb 24, 2023 ruclips.net/video/LHTzW4DC_fI/видео.html versus Bare Neutrals for connection between the Main Service Panel to the Meter Base to the Utility Service Mast?
I’m not an electrician, but I’ve worked on my own electrical and I saw my girlfriend’s house had an FPE 100 amp panel. She wanted an EV receptacle and there were no spaces for more breakers, plus the old panel was dangerous. She got a contractor to install a nice new Eaton 200 amp panel, new riser, new ground rods, new outside emergency disconnect. It took an electrician, an apprentice and a helper about 9 hours to complete the job. I patched the interior garage wall after they were done. I have learned a lot by watching your videos!
6:00 - If you're running PVC conduit to the panel, then why not just run individual XHHW conductors rather than SE cable? I thought the cable was intended to be exposed rather than run in conduit.
Dryer 220 in my FPE box exploded. We were watching tv and started to smell something. I stood up just getting ready to look around. I heard a weird sound from hallway. Just as I looked that way Heard a loud POP. Then heard fizz fizz zap fizz noises and boom a fire ball shot out of the box up the wall into hall way. Fire dept got out in time put it out. The box blew so hard molten plastic from the breakers and the box hit wall across hallway and left black burn marks on the wall across from box. The Bus bar which was now molten behind the failed breaker fell onto carpet below box and burnt holes into carpet in hall way. I can tell you all watching this video first hand experience with a FPE failure. If you have these boxes get them out as soon as possible they are death traps waiting to happen. Replace them boxes its not a suggestion. They can be shorting out and you wouldn't even know it until you smell it and by that time its too late. The breakers Wont trip off like they are supposed to. We had no clue there was a issue with dryer circuit. If the breakers actually had done their job we would of been alerted to a issue and could have had dryer circuit looked at.
Our house was built in 1974, we bought it in 1998. Just now having our Federal Pacific main Panel replaced. I even bought new replacement breakers for this panel, before I found out that those breakers were failing also! Nice job Ron!
In California, most homes in the coastal areas and built within the last 50 years with overhead service use a combined meter-circuit breaker panel (load center) located outdoors and recessed into the outside wall. The service entrance cable is contained within metal conduit pipe that runs up inside the external wall and exits through the roof. The conduit can extend up to 3 ft above the roof with a weather head. The service hook is connected to the pipe below the service head. I find that usually individual THHN cables are used in the conduit rather than service entrance cable from the weather head to the panel.
Since the ground and neutral are bonded in the outside disconnect enclosure, shouldn't the grounds and neutrals be kept separate in the breaker panel? In the video it looks like they are connected to the same bus bar.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey My bad. I had just watched another "service upgrade" video of yours where you did install an exterior disconnect and got the two confused.
I’ll always give my customers the option to choose. If this was my house I’d have upgraded to 200 amps. This house was being sold and they just wanted the 100 amps.
I'm not a electrician, I'm a retired Union carpenter who can do some electrical work, But I always enjoyed doing it so [lease bear with me when I say I dont know what a branch circuit conductors is . But I can tell you that the house power is a 100 amp breaker box.
Why PVC out the bottom if you just do exposed cable up the house out of the top of the meter? Why not exposed Service Entrance exposed out the bottom as well?
In canada we have federal pioneer panels that are the same design as fpe but made in canada subject to canadian standards. i've read that they're regarded as save b/c they never had issues with fake approvals, but independent testing has shown the breakers perform similar to federal pacific. new breakers for those canadian panels still sold but with same flawed design*. testing has shown new replacement stab-locks have worse performance than originals. *the pictures in one engineering report show they're the same design and neither seem to have magnetic short circuit protection, only thermal which won't trip as fast if there's a short.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey what he means to say is that in MD and DC, we are now required to use KENNY CLAMPS (or equivalent in some counties). It’s a requirement from the local AHJ
Something the homeowner should have considered is future proofing by upgrading to 200 amp. Doing this much work you might as well upgrade since the labor cost will be the same and the increase in material cost is not that much.
I was thinking that too, but maybe they're in a city like mine where everyone's heat, hot water, stove and dryer are natural gas, with which you can get by with 100 amps. When I got my house it had 60 amp I went up to 200 amp. I don't really need it but maybe a future owner will appreciate it.
@@Progrocker70 Electric cars are here. You'll need to provide 1 30 amp circuit and probably 2 if your spouse wants one too. So future proofing as a good plan.
What is the "fifth jaw" in the meter base? Is it loop of wire that the neutral goes through, like a clamp meter, which an ammeter can be hooked to on the outside to monitor neutral conductor current?
When I started wiring houses back in 2001 we were wiring new houses all the time. My boss and I drove in the ground rod outside (yes Long Island only requires 1) we built the entire service, no drop to house yet since it new construction. A few weeks later my boss got a call. The water company hooked up water main at road and had no pressure. Needed up that when we drove ground rod we went right through th brand new copper water main and had no idea because it wasn’t hooked up yet. What are the odds, good time. God rest his soul. Miss you “whitey”
When I did a service or panel replacement I always removed the short flimsy screws from 100 amp circuit breakers and applied a thin coat of noxid paste on them. Several times in damp basements found the screws corroded where they could not be loosened. Was told that yes a panel can be installed by a door that opens up blocking it.
Ron a few things: 1) While I agree own your choice of 15A and 20A breakers for appropriate wire size you are making assumptions that could be unsafe. Since you do not know the state of existing wiring in the house there could be #12 wiring in the breaker box that has a connection to #14 wire somewhere and so they had it actually connected to a 15A breaker. By assuming it should be a 20A breaker you open the door that any existing 15A wire on the circuit could overheat and catch fire if overloaded. That is why I think it is important when removing the wires to a breaker you should actually note the breaker rating and replace accordingly. 2) You put anti oxidizing all over in the breaker and meter box connections but did not seem to put any on the connections when you re-hooked up the main lines outside even though you taped them. Are not these connections just as likely to oxidize in the future? 3) When installing grounding rod connections are they suppose to be visible so you can see the connection or can they be buried where you cannot see the connection and if it came loose? 4) When connecting the two ground rods the #6 copper ground when down to the first rod and came back up to route to the second one. I was wondering how that wire was connected to the first ground rod and if the #6 ground wire was continuous all the way to the second ground rod or whether you split it? Keep up the good work and love your videos..........
I can’t assume that the previous load center wiring was done correctly. The code tells me to use a 15A circuit breaker on 14 AWG conductors and 20A breakers on 12 AWG conductors.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey The NEC code says you cannot use a 20 amp breaker unless the entire circuit is #12 wire, not just what terminates in the breaker box. If there is any #14 wire in the entire circuit it must use a 15 amp breaker. I obviously do not recommend mixing wire sizes on the same circuit but if it was done and they had a 15 amp breaker in place then it should be replaced with a 15 amp breaker until the #14 wire is replaced. If you are not going to track down why a breaker was undersized then it should be replaced with the same size that is why it it important on older houses to note the breaker sizes when switching panels.
Yeah big props to him for solo sweating through the days! I think he may have seniority over most other employees: (unless it's a one man operation from boot)
Electrical Inspector here from Texas. It’s awesome to see work from other states and compare the similarities. I very much enjoy you videos and commentary 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I was surprised that he didn't put 2 pole 15a breakers on the 3 conductor bx cable. Multi wire branch circuits will have have current on the second breaker that's still on.
Ron, I really appreciate what you put into these instructional videos. I know some from years of being around electricians, but the details you include have made all the difference in my education about the "why fors" in what you do. A BIG Azz thank you, your knowledge and presentation are over the top.
Might me a dumb question but why does the neutral cable have no insulation around it if it carries return current? Because wouldn't when you have to run it through the circuit panel it would touch the metal box causing issues and what about arcing? Again this might be a dumb question so sorry. Love your videos
Unfortunately SE cable is not allowed to be used as a service riser here in my municipality. We have to use RMC or IMC for The riser from the meter hub up with a weather head on top. We can use aluminum se cable for sub panel feeders. We can aluminum feeders for appliance and equipment feeds in residential and of course cooper branch circuits.
@@pinkiepie1656 It will cost far more in the future than to just put in 200 now. And it will increase the resale value. Add an electric range and an outdoor Jacuzzi and you'll need to upgrade.
Ron, love your work, and above that, love that you share your work with others. I know that Connecticut Electric makes listed replacement breakers to FPE, but I cannot in a good conscience add a circuit to a panel where three existing breakers fall out of their positions while I am putting a listed replacement in. So, it's a full replacement, or I don't want to touch it.... Thank you again, Ron for making our weekend with a new video.
My city requires that the SE in the weather be in conduit - North Alabama We can use it from the meter to the panel without conduit if less than 6 feet.
You’re always going to need some form of grounding electrode. New homes will have the concrete encased electrode requirement and that’s all that’s needed. Older homes with PEX water mains will require (2) ground rods at a minimum.
interesting differences from state to state bonding to the water main or water heater is increasingly pointless here given the switch to poly or pex water systems It;s also very rare that you can drive one gnd rod let alone two in sunny southern california
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ground rods are the most common but the area I live in is basically granite rocks with a thin layer of DG on top occasionally you get lucky but I'm pretty sure there are a lot of 24" gnd rods when people get new solar installls
Ron... excellent video! Few in Jersey talk about the dangers of FPE breakers and breaker boxes. In my old neighborhood, every single home had FPE panels and breakers, and I watched two of those homes burn down thanks to them. Both fires started at the breaker boxes. How they are still in service with no recalls is beyond my understanding.
There’s a lot of information online but as the story goes FPE manipulated their products during the listing process. There’s news clips from several decades ago.
I see you use alot of stranded in you area, we use solid core for grounding requirements mostly. Is it a cost thing? Seems stranded would be easier to damage. Thanks.
@@professionalinspectionserv9468 this is what NEC says: ctrode Conductor Material. The grounding electrode conductor shall be of copper, aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or the items as permitted in 250.68(C). The material selected shall be resistant to any corrosive condition existing at the installation or shall be protected against corrosion. Conductors of the wire type shall be solid or stranded, insulated, covered, or bare.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thankyou, I know you can use stranded, but is it the best option? Due to durability. The code is full of things that is okay, but remember, the code is the min standard accepted. That's why some jurisdictions go above the min standards. As a professional I always try to do what is best.
What do you consider on what eqip to use ? GE -- Sq D -- CH. Seems the CH is a higher cost product. I suppose change outs -- what's a few hundred bucks -- why not go better, sleep better, better eqip installs easier ? When would you use lower end equip ?
Most of my work is referral based, including this one, and they put their in me to make that decision. CHBR is a good product. Not everyone wants or can afford to buy a Cadillac.
federal pacific was sued out of existence and most homeowners insurance companys will not cover you if you still have an active FP service...back in the day when you could still get a FP breaker at your local supply house they would always ask you if you would like a fire extinguisher with that,,,lol the problem with FP breakers is they would never trip they would just arch weld inside the panel.
Also FPE breakers are backwards from other breakers when they are on and off. On is toward the outside and off is to the inside. Which is actually a code violation.
Journeyman Electrician from Omaha, NE. Love the channel Ron. I appreciate how detailed you are in your videos and that you take the time to explain things. As we all know, you're never to old to learn new things and in this trade we always learn something new. Keep doing what you do brotha. Props from the midwest
AZ and Cali outdoor panels WTH? Haha, coming from AZ and worked in southern Cali for 20 years AZ, NV, and NM as well, I can tell ya weather is mostly great year around. But mostly it's for fire department to disconnect power and housing developments cutting cost with meter combo panels. Helps with solar installation times too.
That duck seal almost reminds me of the stuff they used to use on the railways for everything from wire entry, to seating lenses in place on signal lights.
When you tie in the new entrance cable to the triplex are you aloud in your area to do the work energized? Or do you have to have the PoCo disconnect at the pole?
Well done Ron! Yes, we here in East Tennessee do things a little different than you guys in the Northeast. But that's what I enjoy seeing - how you guys do things. Keep it up! 👍
@@arnieselectric007 Hey Arnie! Yes, I do watch him from time-to-time. After 42 years in the electric industry, I still enjoy learning and seeing how others around the country are doing things.
I have a question, it looks like you are dealing with a bunch of multiwire branch circuits on the left side of the panel with the red and the black conductors. Aren’t you supposed to make sure that each multiwire branch circuit is served with a double pole breaker so if one side shorts, they both trip?.
And just when I thought my Friday couldn’t get any better, Ron hits us with a new upload🎉
Happy to hear you look forward to them! Thanks man!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Hi Ron,
What advantages do we gain if we use Insulated Neutrals in the example from this video of yours uploaded on Feb 24, 2023
ruclips.net/video/LHTzW4DC_fI/видео.html
versus Bare Neutrals for connection between the Main Service Panel to the Meter Base to the Utility Service Mast?
I’m not an electrician, but I’ve worked on my own electrical and I saw my girlfriend’s house had an FPE 100 amp panel. She wanted an EV receptacle and there were no spaces for more breakers, plus the old panel was dangerous. She got a contractor to install a nice new Eaton 200 amp panel, new riser, new ground rods, new outside emergency disconnect. It took an electrician, an apprentice and a helper about 9 hours to complete the job. I patched the interior garage wall after they were done. I have learned a lot by watching your videos!
Your videos are really helpful. Real world stuff. Thanks again.
Thanks! Appreciate ya!
I’m glad I could help! Thank you for the Super Thanks!
Why dont you use pvc on the outside
YOU ARE THE BEST RON I LIKE THE WAY U INSTALL THE SERVICE PANEL I HOPE I CAN WATCHING MORE VIDEO GOOD JOB
Thank you.
11/2 pvc is easier with 2 seu. 2 1/2 is easier for 4/0 seu. Fyi. Not much cost diffrent
6:00 - If you're running PVC conduit to the panel, then why not just run individual XHHW conductors rather than SE cable? I thought the cable was intended to be exposed rather than run in conduit.
Why do you need 2 grounding electrodes
Because that’s what the code calls for.
Dryer 220 in my FPE box exploded. We were watching tv and started to smell something. I stood up just getting ready to look around. I heard a weird sound from hallway. Just as I looked that way Heard a loud POP. Then heard fizz fizz zap fizz noises and boom a fire ball shot out of the box up the wall into hall way. Fire dept got out in time put it out. The box blew so hard molten plastic from the breakers and the box hit wall across hallway and left black burn marks on the wall across from box. The Bus bar which was now molten behind the failed breaker fell onto carpet below box and burnt holes into carpet in hall way. I can tell you all watching this video first hand experience with a FPE failure. If you have these boxes get them out as soon as possible they are death traps waiting to happen. Replace them boxes its not a suggestion. They can be shorting out and you wouldn't even know it until you smell it and by that time its too late. The breakers Wont trip off like they are supposed to. We had no clue there was a issue with dryer circuit. If the breakers actually had done their job we would of been alerted to a issue and could have had dryer circuit looked at.
wonder how much would cost me to upgrade 100amp to 200amp in Sub-Philadelphia
Our house was built in 1974, we bought it in 1998. Just now having our Federal Pacific main Panel replaced. I even bought new replacement breakers for this panel, before I found out that those breakers were failing also! Nice job Ron!
In California, most homes in the coastal areas and built within the last 50 years with overhead service use a combined meter-circuit breaker panel (load center) located outdoors and recessed into the outside wall. The service entrance cable is contained within metal conduit pipe that runs up inside the external wall and exits through the roof. The conduit can extend up to 3 ft above the roof with a weather head. The service hook is connected to the pipe below the service head. I find that usually individual THHN cables are used in the conduit rather than service entrance cable from the weather head to the panel.
Great video, as always sir. What is that fold up table at 32:50? I got to get me one of those!
Dewalt like $99 Home Depot
Since the ground and neutral are bonded in the outside disconnect enclosure, shouldn't the grounds and neutrals be kept separate in the breaker panel? In the video it looks like they are connected to the same bus bar.
No exterior disconnect here.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey My bad. I had just watched another "service upgrade" video of yours where you did install an exterior disconnect and got the two confused.
Why not a 200amp upgrade?
I’ll always give my customers the option to choose. If this was my house I’d have upgraded to 200 amps. This house was being sold and they just wanted the 100 amps.
Where I live we are not allowed to take meter out or reconnect to main line
What size breaker do I use for an infared sauna?
depends on the size of the branch circuit conductors.
I'm not a electrician, I'm a retired Union carpenter who can do some electrical work, But I always enjoyed doing it so [lease bear with me when I say I dont know what a branch circuit conductors is . But I can tell you that the house power is a 100 amp breaker box.
@@mdr245724 the branch circuit conductors are what attach to your circuit breakers.
Another great video. Each time I watch your videos I learn little tips and tricks especially with upgrading service entrances. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it helpful!
Why PVC out the bottom if you just do exposed cable up the house out of the top of the meter? Why not exposed Service Entrance exposed out the bottom as well?
One reason could be that the PVC provides a better solid surface to provide weather seal through the building envelope against.
@@orcoastgreenman possibly. I thought I’ve seen over the years, they make a type of protector when cable enters house? Not sure though?
In canada we have federal pioneer panels that are the same design as fpe but made in canada subject to canadian standards. i've read that they're regarded as save b/c they never had issues with fake approvals, but independent testing has shown the breakers perform similar to federal pacific. new breakers for those canadian panels still sold but with same flawed design*. testing has shown new replacement stab-locks have worse performance than originals.
*the pictures in one engineering report show they're the same design and neither seem to have magnetic short circuit protection, only thermal which won't trip as fast if there's a short.
On your split phase circuits don’t you have to use a comma trip breaker I know in our area we have to?
Yes, required and they were installed prior to the inspection.
Why no grease on lines from power company? Is it because you seal lines with tape?
Because the power company comes back to redo the connection anyway.
Thank goodness one more FPE panel in the trash where it should be
Your workmanship is excellent
Thank you very much!
In MD we use ground wire connectors and Min. 150amp service
Sounds good but 100A is the minimum and GEC’s do not require connectors.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey what he means to say is that in MD and DC, we are now required to use KENNY CLAMPS (or equivalent in some counties). It’s a requirement from the local AHJ
Ron, I watch and learn much from watching your work videos, thank you. Also enjoy the high production value of the various tempo musical riffs.
;
sharing neutrals requires a common trip breaker or handle ties
Something the homeowner should have considered is future proofing by upgrading to 200 amp. Doing this much work you might as well upgrade since the labor cost will be the same and the increase in material cost is not that much.
I was thinking that too, but maybe they're in a city like mine where everyone's heat, hot water, stove and dryer are natural gas, with which you can get by with 100 amps. When I got my house it had 60 amp I went up to 200 amp. I don't really need it but maybe a future owner will appreciate it.
@@Progrocker70 Electric cars are here. You'll need to provide 1 30 amp circuit and probably 2 if your spouse wants one too. So future proofing as a good plan.
What is the "fifth jaw" in the meter base? Is it loop of wire that the neutral goes through, like a clamp meter, which an ammeter can be hooked to on the outside to monitor neutral conductor current?
When I started wiring houses back in 2001 we were wiring new houses all the time. My boss and I drove in the ground rod outside (yes Long Island only requires 1) we built the entire service, no drop to house yet since it new construction. A few weeks later my boss got a call. The water company hooked up water main at road and had no pressure. Needed up that when we drove ground rod we went right through th brand new copper water main and had no idea because it wasn’t hooked up yet. What are the odds, good time. God rest his soul. Miss you “whitey”
I remember those days driving only (1) ground rod. Around here we call 811 before we dig but the ground rods are estimated guess.
My home had two 200-Amp Federal Pacific Service Panels. I had them replaced for about $5K total. I'm glad I did!
Great job!!!! Mr Ron👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
When I did a service or panel replacement I always removed the short flimsy screws from 100 amp circuit breakers and applied a thin coat of noxid paste on them. Several times in damp basements found the screws corroded where they could not be loosened. Was told that yes a panel can be installed by a door that opens up blocking it.
Only 100 amp, when they are selling the house? New person may want a hot tub or vehicle chargers. No AFCI breakers?
@@bobsjers screw the AFCI breakers!
Would you ever film in 4K?
I have a Fed Pacific been in since 1975 gonna replace with Square D QO in a couple months
Better start saving for it now because QO stuff is super-expensive now.
you didn't want to put a few twists in the SE to make it more of a challenge feeding it through the conduit?...lol
I’m from AZ. It’s true all panels are outside lol. And the newer ones have AFCI breakers that bake in the heat all day.
Beautiful workmanship.
As a new home owner this is a ver informative channel. Watched a few of your videos so far since it came up on my feed.
If you're doing all this work, why not upgrade to 200 Amp? What would the cost difference be?
Another great video! I look forward to them!!
Thanks glad you’re enjoying the videos Travis!
Why did you pipe the seu?
Pretty much all of the southwest states require the main panel to be outside, including Colorado.
Another excellent job. Thanks for taking us along!
Our pleasure!
Ron a few things:
1) While I agree own your choice of 15A and 20A breakers for appropriate wire size you are making assumptions that could be unsafe. Since you do not know the state of existing wiring in the house there could be #12 wiring in the breaker box that has a connection to #14 wire somewhere and so they had it actually connected to a 15A breaker. By assuming it should be a 20A breaker you open the door that any existing 15A wire on the circuit could overheat and catch fire if overloaded. That is why I think it is important when removing the wires to a breaker you should actually note the breaker rating and replace accordingly.
2) You put anti oxidizing all over in the breaker and meter box connections but did not seem to put any on the connections when you re-hooked up the main lines outside even though you taped them. Are not these connections just as likely to oxidize in the future?
3) When installing grounding rod connections are they suppose to be visible so you can see the connection or can they be buried where you cannot see the connection and if it came loose?
4) When connecting the two ground rods the #6 copper ground when down to the first rod and came back up to route to the second one. I was wondering how that wire was connected to the first ground rod and if the #6 ground wire was continuous all the way to the second ground rod or whether you split it?
Keep up the good work and love your videos..........
I can’t assume that the previous load center wiring was done correctly. The code tells me to use a 15A circuit breaker on 14 AWG conductors and 20A breakers on 12 AWG conductors.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey The NEC code says you cannot use a 20 amp breaker unless the entire circuit is #12 wire, not just what terminates in the breaker box. If there is any #14 wire in the entire circuit it must use a 15 amp breaker. I obviously do not recommend mixing wire sizes on the same circuit but if it was done and they had a 15 amp breaker in place then it should be replaced with a 15 amp breaker until the #14 wire is replaced. If you are not going to track down why a breaker was undersized then it should be replaced with the same size that is why it it important on older houses to note the breaker sizes when switching panels.
Such neat work
This is one of my fav electrical channels 🫡 knocking work out solo 👍🏽, great teaching as well 👍🏽
I appreciate that!
Yeah big props to him for solo sweating through the days! I think he may have seniority over most other employees: (unless it's a one man operation from boot)
Great job!! The attention to detail is what separates workers from the professionals.
Electrical Inspector here from Texas. It’s awesome to see work from other states and compare the similarities. I very much enjoy you videos and commentary 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Right on
Great job. Thanks much 🙏
Hey Ron, why not two pole breakers or handle tie for those multi wire branch circuits?
I was surprised that he didn't put 2 pole 15a breakers on the 3 conductor bx cable. Multi wire branch circuits will have have current on the second breaker that's still on.
This was awhile ago but I def went back before inspection with the right breakers.
On a MWBC the neutral carries the imbalance current, not the other line line a series circuit.
Ron, I really appreciate what you put into these instructional videos. I know some from years of being around electricians, but the details you include have made all the difference in my education about the "why fors" in what you do.
A BIG Azz thank you, your knowledge and presentation are over the top.
Might me a dumb question but why does the neutral cable have no insulation around it if it carries return current? Because wouldn't when you have to run it through the circuit panel it would touch the metal box causing issues and what about arcing? Again this might be a dumb question so sorry. Love your videos
Just in time for a Saturday breakfast and a video treat to go along with it!!! Thanks Ron! Loved it!
Hope you enjoy
Unfortunately SE cable is not allowed to be used as a service riser here in my municipality. We have to use RMC or IMC for
The riser from the meter hub up with a weather head on top. We can use aluminum se cable for sub panel feeders. We can aluminum feeders for appliance and equipment feeds in residential and of course cooper branch circuits.
Just wanted to know when wiring in a new panel don't have to used the arc fault breakers?
Nope!
Only on new cir.
I always wonder why someone would install a new 100 amp service. Except the SE cable and conduit the price is the same for 200 amps.
No it isn't. Everything that's 200 amps is more expensive than 100 amps, especially the labor part.
My new home is being built with 100 amp service. Not everyone needs that much power. And I have a 24 amp EV charger:)
@@pinkiepie1656 you’ll see.
@@pinkiepie1656 It will cost far more in the future than to just put in 200 now. And it will increase the resale value. Add an electric range and an outdoor Jacuzzi and you'll need to upgrade.
Here from CA and yes Panels r required to be install outdoors by garage. Here!
Ron, love your work, and above that, love that you share your work with others.
I know that Connecticut Electric makes listed replacement breakers to FPE, but I cannot in a good conscience add a circuit to a panel where three existing breakers fall out of their positions while I am putting a listed replacement in. So, it's a full replacement, or I don't want to touch it....
Thank you again, Ron for making our weekend with a new video.
North Carolina also has panels outside as well.
Looked like standard 15 amp breakers. Aren't GFCI, AFCI or CGFI required on some circuits when upgrading?
Not in New Jersey they’re not. Only for new circuits. Like for like here under the rehab sub code.
I notice you don’t leave any slack in the meter box? Just curious. Thank you
👍👍👍👍
@ElectricianRon, I thought 200amp service is the norm now when doing a panel replacement ?
This guy was just eliminating the FPE panel to sell the house.
Love your videos. Thank you for sharing.
Hey do you not have to torque all of that down to what is on the panel and breakers for inspection?
My city requires that the SE in the weather be in conduit - North Alabama
We can use it from the meter to the panel without conduit if less than 6 feet.
Another near perfect job Ron...You are a great inspiration for all of us tradies brother...
FPE is a fire hazard.
What brand is that table
Dewalt folding workbench. They have them at home depot
@@andrewdimauro7352 thank you
Great video Ron keep them coming back lol 😊
Enjoy your video, you seem to be a good guy who cares about the customer and getting the job done right.
I enjoy watching the videos. Thank you for taking the time to film and edit this kind of stuff.
If a house has PEX for water plumbing, so you still have to do some sort of grounding to it? Or is the PEX piping non-conductive?
You’re always going to need some form of grounding electrode. New homes will have the concrete encased electrode requirement and that’s all that’s needed. Older homes with PEX water mains will require (2) ground rods at a minimum.
You would make an excellent electrical shop teacher
Funny you should say that. First, thank you. Second, I am training to become a teacher at the IEC.
Latest edition of NEC 2020 when adopted requires an overvoltage SPD on all new and updated services. Articles 230.67 and 242.
Pound sand because here in NJ we use the rehab sub code for existing service upgrade.
Just pointing out a Code change and I typed " when adopted" no reason to get nasty.
interesting differences from state to state
bonding to the water main or water heater is increasingly pointless here given the switch to poly or pex water systems
It;s also very rare that you can drive one gnd rod let alone two in sunny southern california
well if not ground rods what kind of electrodes are you using in southern California? and when is it difficult to drive a ground rod?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ground rods are the most common but the area I live in is basically granite rocks with a thin layer of DG on top
occasionally you get lucky but I'm pretty sure there are a lot of 24" gnd rods when people get new solar installls
Ron... excellent video! Few in Jersey talk about the dangers of FPE breakers and breaker boxes. In my old neighborhood, every single home had FPE panels and breakers, and I watched two of those homes burn down thanks to them. Both fires started at the breaker boxes. How they are still in service with no recalls is beyond my understanding.
There’s a lot of information online but as the story goes FPE manipulated their products during the listing process. There’s news clips from several decades ago.
I see you use alot of stranded in you area, we use solid core for grounding requirements mostly. Is it a cost thing? Seems stranded would be easier to damage. Thanks.
@@professionalinspectionserv9468 this is what NEC says: ctrode Conductor Material.
The grounding electrode conductor shall be of copper, aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or the items as permitted in 250.68(C). The material selected shall be resistant to any corrosive condition existing at the installation or shall be protected against corrosion. Conductors of the wire type shall be solid or stranded, insulated, covered, or bare.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thankyou, I know you can use stranded, but is it the best option? Due to durability. The code is full of things that is okay, but remember, the code is the min standard accepted. That's why some jurisdictions go above the min standards. As a professional I always try to do what is best.
What do you consider on what eqip to use ? GE -- Sq D -- CH. Seems the CH is a higher cost product. I suppose change outs -- what's a few hundred bucks -- why not go better, sleep better, better eqip installs easier ? When would you use lower end equip ?
Most of my work is referral based, including this one, and they put their in me to make that decision. CHBR is a good product. Not everyone wants or can afford to buy a Cadillac.
Great video.
Thanks.
federal pacific was sued out of existence and most homeowners insurance companys will not cover you if you still have an active FP service...back in the day when you could still get a FP breaker at your local supply house they would always ask you if you would like a fire extinguisher with that,,,lol the problem with FP breakers is they would never trip they would just arch weld inside the panel.
Very true!
Like the addition of that music! Nice work
Also FPE breakers are backwards from other breakers when they are on and off. On is toward the outside and off is to the inside. Which is actually a code violation.
Journeyman Electrician from Omaha, NE. Love the channel Ron.
I appreciate how detailed you are in your videos and that you take the time to explain things.
As we all know, you're never to old to learn new things and in this trade we always learn something new.
Keep doing what you do brotha.
Props from the midwest
Cool, thanks
I enjoy your comments, im from the west coast and like to see your homes on the East side of America
AZ and Cali outdoor panels WTH? Haha, coming from AZ and worked in southern Cali for 20 years AZ, NV, and NM as well, I can tell ya weather is mostly great year around. But mostly it's for fire department to disconnect power and housing developments cutting cost with meter combo panels. Helps with solar installation times too.
Texas has a lot of panels on the outside too
Nice production Ron!
Much appreciated!
1st time viewer. I had a FPE panel in our house when we bought it 8 years ago. Swapped it out within the 1st year. Not worth the risk to the family.
That duck seal almost reminds me of the stuff they used to use on the railways for everything from wire entry, to seating lenses in place on signal lights.
When you tie in the new entrance cable to the triplex are you aloud in your area to do the work energized? Or do you have to have the PoCo disconnect at the pole?
Well done Ron! Yes, we here in East Tennessee do things a little different than you guys in the Northeast. But that's what I enjoy seeing - how you guys do things. Keep it up! 👍
Hey Roy, do you watch "The Electrical Code Coach" He's in Tennessee also...
@@arnieselectric007 Hey Arnie! Yes, I do watch him from time-to-time. After 42 years in the electric industry, I still enjoy learning and seeing how others around the country are doing things.
Great video
Great job 👍
Have you ever had to deal with Mis-identified neutrals doing an upgrade with the breaker box?
Actually that happens too often. Anything out of the ordinary will be identified using vinyl tape.
I have a question, it looks like you are dealing with a bunch of multiwire branch circuits on the left side of the panel with the red and the black conductors. Aren’t you supposed to make sure that each multiwire branch circuit is served with a double pole breaker so if one side shorts, they both trip?.
What is the brand of the new panel? You don't have to use arc fault breakers?
I like to pack weatherhead inside with duct seal
Thanks.