It’s hard to say what the cause is but my guess is that it is caused by some sort of contaminant in the paint. This is unfortunate if it is true because that means there really isn’t anything you can do to prevent it. It seems to brand specific. For example I don’t recall ever seeing a hot wheel with this type of paint rash.
That sucks that that happen to your models but it's nice that you got a lot of suggestions on how to deal with it. I haven't face that problem and hope that I never do. Hope that the wax is able to do some magic on that model that you applied it to and get rid of that bubbling.
Santiago Martinez thanks bro I’m Glad yours are all ok. Yes I hope all collectors will not face this problem as well but in the event it happens hope the tips will come to use. Yes bro I hope the bubbling won’t happen too.
....for the money that Tomica charges nd they continue to use the cheapest paint around cause that paint rash doesn't happen to my Hot Wheels, Matchbox, Johnny Lightning, Auto World, Greenlight etc...
I think it is a combination of weather (storage humidity and temperature - especially swings in these) and the paint. Some brands (MBX, HW, JL, GL, M2) do not seem to suffer from this (although I have seen some JL with this but it is very rare and these JL had packages that seemed to have been wet or damp). Others have this problem such as Kyosho, Konami and Tomcia. However most older TLV I see are fine. Same with older Kyosho (Konamis seem the worst). So although Kyosho and TLV are prone it seems the weather plays a role as well
I wonder why the premium Japanese brands have these issues when everything is made in China. Makes me respect American R&D and Quality Assurance even more
I've have seen this problem on on some older black GLs recently (Mercury Marauder, Ford Taurus etc). It is not as bad as some of the Kyosho but it is there.
Thanks for the tip. Do you happen to have the rubber tyres become oily? Any tip for this? Or just place bag of silica gel to do the job to prevent the rubber tyres become oily.
Ive had the same problem with tissues bubbling paint... best thing is to have nothing touching the paint. Do use the the silca pouches to suck up the moisture though like you did
I am trying to see paint rash as a normal degradation of any items that you collect. If you collect resin figurines you will know that they will degrade and may turn sticky over time. I look at my watch collection and inevitably there will be dings and scratches, which I had personally refused to let them affect my enjoyment of the watches and see them as adding “character” to the watches. Perhaps I am trying to comfort myself about the paint rashes haha. But well, I am living with it for the time being
Zinc rot is the problem; happens in my 1/400 airplanes. The better airplane model companies are going to all aluminum castings now to avoid this. I prefer resin for detail. Also paper is abrasive; take a piece of paper and wipe it on a black car and you will see scratches. This is why no decent car wash will ever use paper towels. You want to use microfiber since the soft plastic shouldn't scratch a clearcoat. Best explanation I found from member FrenchToast on diecast society. "Zinc is not a particularly stable 'metal' when it comes to corrosion resistance. It is very good as a sacrificial coating when plated to steel via electrolysis. However as a solid product I think it is quite poor. Diecast metal (primarily zinc) is a mixture of several metals; aluminum, lead, probably others. Dissimilar metals almost always create an opportunity for galvanic corrosion; which is apparently what happens with a solid zinc casting. The fast casting process does not help: molecules are not really well aligned and the granular structure is relatively poor. If you cut a relatively thick part of a zinc casting it is likely you'll see air pockets. Why such a crappy metal, you might ask. From what I've read, high zinc content alloy doesn't need high-temperature to cast and flows relatively well to fill the correct shape. (The quality of the negative mold is a different story). It is also cheap. Also, I don't think very many manufacturers use a sufficient, if any at all, primer layer. I can't say for higher-end models, but whenever I've sanded through a panel there is no primer layer. I think a proper primer would help slow (but not stop) the galvanic process manifesting itself on the surface. Of course for most models I cannot say. But for all of my models that have paint chips or that I've sanded, I can only think of one that has a visible, original priming layer. And it is a 1:64. This doesn't provide any answer to your query. However if the cause is galvanic corrosion (which is likely), it cannot be stopped. The only fix stripping the paint, properly prepping the metal and using a primer formulated for this base, then a topcoat. That however, isn't practical and only slows the process instead of permanently fixing it. The best is probably to keep an eye on the finish and correct it before it gets worse. ______________ Resin is of course immune to corrosion. But being a plastic product it has its own problems. Sagging, and/or inability to maintain original shape, especially under prolonged UV exposure, after many years are the biggest problems from what I have read. Quality resin models are very thick not only to have the heavier feel of a metal model, but also to resist warping. And of course most resin products don't have opening parts. I imagine the likely causes are 1) it is a very soft material and would not take well to many mechanical metal hinge attachments but 2) would probably have very high rate of failing a QC inspection - holes are that much easier to strip out. I imagine it could be done on a large scale if the hinge systems are metal and bonded to the resin with adhesive rather that a mechanical system. Jigs would help ensure consistent hinge placement and, consistent panel gaps. However panels would need to be so thick (in order to resist warping) that opening them may not reveal much! Doors could be done with the interior panel as part of the door casting in order to achieve thickness, however such a two-sided mold is far more expensive than one-sided. Larger panel openings (think Zonda, F40) are probably achievable with room to thicken and strengthen the resin. However a standard hood and trunk, given their needed thin construction, are probably not doable."
Hello, this video is very informative and helpful! Do appreciate your effort on making these videos in your channel. Based on your experience, not sure if the red box mainline and tomica premium series are common with the paint rash issues?
I started to collect Tomica Diecasts about 3 weeks ago, but I want to enjoy seeing it displayed on the table instead keep saving them in the teabag in the box. Do you have the solution to avoid the paint rash??
@@HotKustoms what do you mean by no? Does it mean that if you're from south east asia there is nothing to worry about being paint rash? I'm from philippines I just started collecting tomica now
@@jdmcmotovlog1883 I believe what @Hot Kustoms is saying is that they will experience paint rash if exposed to areas of high humidity like southern Asia. It's the humidity that affects these castings and sadly if your collection is even in a basement where at times gets damp (like being in an area of high humidity) it will affect the thin paint these models have. The point of the tea bag is to keep moisture out. In addition @Hot Kustoms adds the gel salt packs for even more assurance to keep the casting dry.
One reason why I stopped collecting TLV. I still think they're the best 1/64 brand, but until they fix that issue or maybe i get rich enough to have a dedicated climate-controlled room to store them, I'll only get a few of them every now and then.
The hard part is that you dont just need AC (i.e.. climate control). Although that helps immensely. You need humidity control which is harder. I monitor the humidity in my climate controlled storage and house.
Albay Diecast Group i have the tissue on my vintage Tomica for years it’s ok for me. Degrading tissue stick ? I dunno never happens to me. End of day it’s not a must to put and it’s up to individual choice. I’m just sharing. Many factors with or without tissue affect the paint
If i put my tlvs into a display cabinet(in living room) without wrapping it in tissues / tea filter bags and without silica gel how long b4 it will get paint rashes?
Prof.Mokster57 I should think so but i can’t guarantee it won’t have pain rash over the years it really depends on casting. What is doing now is just precautionary to avoid it not 100% won’t get paint rash. Only time will tell.
What do you think causes the pain rash? Please drop your comments below and help me share this video to your fellow collectors.
Hot Kustoms what is next years models of tomica?
Poke Blox u can refer to Tomytec website
Thank you
I collect tomicas to
Moisture i guess, because my diecast lose it chrome color even im not touch them 😶
👍👍👍 Good idea, using tea bag,.. mostly, I use tissue or paper towel.
minicar therapy 😊👌
I like the tlv collecter "community" because instead of getting mad they replies with tips for the century rash
i guess its pretty common, i have quite a few TLV and don't really experience much paint rash/cancer.
It’s hard to say what the cause is but my guess is that it is caused by some sort of contaminant in the paint. This is unfortunate if it is true because that means there really isn’t anything you can do to prevent it. It seems to brand specific. For example I don’t recall ever seeing a hot wheel with this type of paint rash.
Championdjk i Guess so too my Guess is maybe the paint is too thin while Hot Wheels is way thicker it does not happen to my USD1 mainline
That sucks that that happen to your models but it's nice that you got a lot of suggestions on how to deal with it. I haven't face that problem and hope that I never do. Hope that the wax is able to do some magic on that model that you applied it to and get rid of that bubbling.
Santiago Martinez thanks bro I’m Glad yours are all ok. Yes I hope all collectors will not face this problem as well but in the event it happens hope the tips will come to use. Yes bro I hope the bubbling won’t happen too.
....for the money that Tomica charges nd they continue to use the cheapest paint around cause that paint rash doesn't happen to my Hot Wheels, Matchbox, Johnny Lightning, Auto World, Greenlight etc...
Weapon X wing I’m not sure if the paint is cheapest to me they have the nicest paint in my eye. I think many factors contribute to this
I think it is a combination of weather (storage humidity and temperature - especially swings in these) and the paint. Some brands (MBX, HW, JL, GL, M2) do not seem to suffer from this (although I have seen some JL with this but it is very rare and these JL had packages that seemed to have been wet or damp). Others have this problem such as Kyosho, Konami and Tomcia. However most older TLV I see are fine. Same with older Kyosho (Konamis seem the worst). So although Kyosho and TLV are prone it seems the weather plays a role as well
Tor-Erik Bakke thanks for sharing bro!!
I wonder why the premium Japanese brands have these issues when everything is made in China. Makes me respect American R&D and Quality Assurance even more
I've have seen this problem on on some older black GLs recently (Mercury Marauder, Ford Taurus etc). It is not as bad as some of the Kyosho but it is there.
Can this method be apply to any brands? Brought an Inno64 skyline recently and saw this vid, since i don't want to have a similar fate with mine
Thanks for the tip. Do you happen to have the rubber tyres become oily? Any tip for this? Or just place bag of silica gel to do the job to prevent the rubber tyres become oily.
thank you for your tips!😁 but can I use microfiber cloth instead of tissue?
Ive had the same problem with tissues bubbling paint... best thing is to have nothing touching the paint. Do use the the silca pouches to suck up the moisture though like you did
346pro that was what I did in the past
@@HotKustoms i have heard the paint can react with the tissues....
346pro then possibilities are endless and many factors will contribute to it. Just take good care of our collection and thanks for sharing
I have purchase vintage Tomica of over 49 years old wrap with tissue with 0 problem so it’s subjective
I am trying to see paint rash as a normal degradation of any items that you collect. If you collect resin figurines you will know that they will degrade and may turn sticky over time. I look at my watch collection and inevitably there will be dings and scratches, which I had personally refused to let them affect my enjoyment of the watches and see them as adding “character” to the watches. Perhaps I am trying to comfort myself about the paint rashes haha. But well, I am living with it for the time being
Thanks for sharing. Cheers
You have a very cool car collection, greetings collector friend
vehículos escala 1:64 thanks!
Zinc rot is the problem; happens in my 1/400 airplanes. The better airplane model companies are going to all aluminum castings now to avoid this. I prefer resin for detail.
Also paper is abrasive; take a piece of paper and wipe it on a black car and you will see scratches. This is why no decent car wash will ever use paper towels. You want to use microfiber since the soft plastic shouldn't scratch a clearcoat.
Best explanation I found from member FrenchToast
on diecast society.
"Zinc is not a particularly stable 'metal' when it comes to corrosion resistance. It is very good as a sacrificial coating when plated to steel via electrolysis. However as a solid product I think it is quite poor.
Diecast metal (primarily zinc) is a mixture of several metals; aluminum, lead, probably others. Dissimilar metals almost always create an opportunity for galvanic corrosion; which is apparently what happens with a solid zinc casting.
The fast casting process does not help: molecules are not really well aligned and the granular structure is relatively poor. If you cut a relatively thick part of a zinc casting it is likely you'll see air pockets.
Why such a crappy metal, you might ask. From what I've read, high zinc content alloy doesn't need high-temperature to cast and flows relatively well to fill the correct shape. (The quality of the negative mold is a different story). It is also cheap.
Also, I don't think very many manufacturers use a sufficient, if any at all, primer layer. I can't say for higher-end models, but whenever I've sanded through a panel there is no primer layer. I think a proper primer would help slow (but not stop) the galvanic process manifesting itself on the surface.
Of course for most models I cannot say. But for all of my models that have paint chips or that I've sanded, I can only think of one that has a visible, original priming layer. And it is a 1:64.
This doesn't provide any answer to your query. However if the cause is galvanic corrosion (which is likely), it cannot be stopped. The only fix stripping the paint, properly prepping the metal and using a primer formulated for this base, then a topcoat. That however, isn't practical and only slows the process instead of permanently fixing it. The best is probably to keep an eye on the finish and correct it before it gets worse.
______________
Resin is of course immune to corrosion. But being a plastic product it has its own problems. Sagging, and/or inability to maintain original shape, especially under prolonged UV exposure, after many years are the biggest problems from what I have read. Quality resin models are very thick not only to have the heavier feel of a metal model, but also to resist warping.
And of course most resin products don't have opening parts. I imagine the likely causes are 1) it is a very soft material and would not take well to many mechanical metal hinge attachments but 2) would probably have very high rate of failing a QC inspection - holes are that much easier to strip out.
I imagine it could be done on a large scale if the hinge systems are metal and bonded to the resin with adhesive rather that a mechanical system. Jigs would help ensure consistent hinge placement and, consistent panel gaps. However panels would need to be so thick (in order to resist warping) that opening them may not reveal much!
Doors could be done with the interior panel as part of the door casting in order to achieve thickness, however such a two-sided mold is far more expensive than one-sided. Larger panel openings (think Zonda, F40) are probably achievable with room to thicken and strengthen the resin. However a standard hood and trunk, given their needed thin construction, are probably not doable."
Thanks for sharing!! V informative!
Zin Rot and Paint Rash are two different worlds.
Hello, this video is very informative and helpful! Do appreciate your effort on making these videos in your channel. Based on your experience, not sure if the red box mainline and tomica premium series are common with the paint rash issues?
Yes they are if you are living in humid client regions
@@HotKustoms Great, thanks! So I better use your method to store my diecast.
Good idea. I put my tomica car into tea bag like you, but my question is should I still put them into plastic bag? (Tea bag+plastic bag)
Shawn Lee should be np bro
Hot Kustoms thanks bro
Can i wrap my tomica a facial tissue?? And put it in the box and put silica gel inside?
I have Tomica Premiums but all of them are sealed, should I unseal them and do this to preserve their paint?
What tissue did you use or what brand of tissue paper
I started to collect Tomica Diecasts about 3 weeks ago, but I want to enjoy seeing it displayed on the table instead keep saving them in the teabag in the box. Do you have the solution to avoid the paint rash??
If you are from South East Asia. No
@@HotKustoms what do you mean by no? Does it mean that if you're from south east asia there is nothing to worry about being paint rash? I'm from philippines I just started collecting tomica now
@@jdmcmotovlog1883 I believe what @Hot Kustoms is saying is that they will experience paint rash if exposed to areas of high humidity like southern Asia. It's the humidity that affects these castings and sadly if your collection is even in a basement where at times gets damp (like being in an area of high humidity) it will affect the thin paint these models have. The point of the tea bag is to keep moisture out. In addition @Hot Kustoms adds the gel salt packs for even more assurance to keep the casting dry.
Is it okay to use food grade silica gel? Are those effective to absorb moisture?
Yes i using some of that now also
One reason why I stopped collecting TLV. I still think they're the best 1/64 brand, but until they fix that issue or maybe i get rich enough to have a dedicated climate-controlled room to store them, I'll only get a few of them every now and then.
Yes bro the underlying problem for Diecast
The hard part is that you dont just need AC (i.e.. climate control). Although that helps immensely. You need humidity control which is harder. I monitor the humidity in my climate controlled storage and house.
spray wax from autodetailing can use in toy car to protect the paint?
IDK as i dont use i will stick to those for model cars .Cheers.
what is the silica gel brand and is it available on ebay ? can you give me the link for that purchase
kasun knl yes just type silica gel and u will see many. eBay definitely has. I rem I get it on Lazada or ezbuy
Thanks for inform that us bro!!👍
Menura Wickramatunga welcome bro!
By the way I have a question, is there anymore new tomica’s in the main line for this year?
they release new model every month
fernando doctor yes they release monthly. U can check the lineup at takaratomy.co.jp
what if i display my cars in the same storage like urs in the back?
Hot Kustom, ever order an old casting from Japan Booster, and find paint rashes on the models?
Retro Galleon 98 I can’t really recall usually I get from Japan which I will inspect myself for retired models
Very helpful . Shame that paint rash occurs , tissue is a simple idea that works
The Skyline 2000 looks antic
what if my TLVN has paint bubbles?
Will tissue disintegrate over time and damage the paint like the plastic wrapping? Maybe tea bag is better I guess?
YunBin Mo so far I never heard or come across tissue will affect paint. IMO it’s the same as tea bags. Only time will tell
@@HotKustoms Haha ok thanks for the tips anyway, gonna buy some teabags tmr!
For what is the tamiya wax? 😶
But will the tissue degrade over time and its residue affect the paint of the car? Will it stick or cause more trouble?
Albay Diecast Group i have the tissue on my vintage Tomica for years it’s ok for me. Degrading tissue stick ? I dunno never happens to me. End of day it’s not a must to put and it’s up to individual choice. I’m just sharing. Many factors with or without tissue affect the paint
This problem only happened on tlvn and kyosho..most of my collection have those bubble
Not mini gt or hws?
Will wrapping tissue paper on tlvn with side mirrors will it damage the car's mirrors?
JULIAN JEROME DUMPIT Handle with care not too thick
@@HotKustoms thanks for the info! Love you content!
If i put my tlvs into a display cabinet(in living room) without wrapping it in tissues / tea filter bags and without silica gel how long b4 it will get paint rashes?
Prof.Mokster57 idk bro I have some on display for 5+ years no paint rash
@@HotKustoms if i wrap them in tea filter bags but the silica gel i leave in the cabinet display instead of inside the tlv box is it ok?
Prof.Mokster57 I should think so but i can’t guarantee it won’t have pain rash over the years it really depends on casting. What is doing now is just precautionary to avoid it not 100% won’t get paint rash. Only time will tell.
Low clear coating
Majestic Ridez maybe bro
How about going overboard and go for ceramic coating everything lol
I would use something made out of cotton because I know that paper towells do leave scratches on real cars
DaBoogie049 go ahead 👌
日本のことどんな感じで見られてる?
日本は美しい国で、私はツアーとトミカを探しに行きます。私はこの秋に日本にすぐに来ます
Nice Tutorial Hot kustom senpai
Takumi Walker thanks bro!
First
Poke Blox r/youngpeopleyoutube