If I may, the problem with those cheap Chinese parts is not with their origin. Asians have been making the OEM replacement parts for years. The price differential (compared to OEM) results in good part from higher tolerances allowed in production and/or lower grade components. OEM (or reputable alternate brands) impose higher production quality control so each and every component is within specs. Different glossiness between the bowl and body of the carb should be a warning. That plastic mightshine now but look for it becoming brittle and cracking down in a seson or two.
You are absolutely true, I think that will be a big problem. The one I had might work fine while one that another person gets could have a slightly different size jet making theirs run poor or not run all together.
Very detailed and good video, thank you. At 2:07, I also noticed that the primer input on the carburetor seemed possibly blocked with some plastic debris inside, which perhaps explains why you had such a hard time priming it.
One small point watching you fight with the float bowl screws. Both the genuine/OEM Lawnboy carbs I have and apparently these don't use Phillips head screws, but rather Posi-drive. Posi-drive headed screws usually are identified by hash marks between each "lobe" of the screwdriver. In some ways it's actually a superior design and less likely to strip than Phillips provided that you have the correct screwdriver. Do yourself a favor before working on one of these again and get a #2 Posi-drive screwdriver. You CAN find them in some electronics tool kits as they are sometimes used on electronic equipment. I have regular screwdrivers in #0 to #3 size as I also work on British cars and the vast majority of screws you find on MGs, etc, are Posi-drive. With the right driver, these will come right out and won't strip regardless of how tight they are.
Bought one from Ebay and have had it on a season. Burns rich. Mower uses about 1/4 more fuel than it did. I Had to clean spark plug once. Odd problem it would not run with the spark plug wire connected to the plug, but pull wire off the plug about 3/8" and it ran fine. I found this out when I was checking it for spark. I could see good spark. Cleaned plug and it went back to working normally again.
Here is a link to a similar one in the video (the listing for the one I bought is gone, but they are all pretty much the same) sorry for the very long link. www.ebay.com/itm/392686973089?_trkparms=aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142838%26meid%3D50c101203b0b4668836d5718459be7b3%26pid%3D101197%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D194003787517%26itm%3D392686973089%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV101HighAdFee&_trksid=p2047675.c101197.m1850&amdata=cksum%3A39268697308950c101203b0b4668836d5718459be7b3%7Cenc%3AAQAFAAAB8AiKyALKlwWFInEOLAGXAtPXbGOWGMHzpim6capNeTL%252Ftp1eQJyJvUb0O1a%252B%252B%252FOOgIeH%252F4LW5qU%252BTWNGIeYYuX%252FEhTU9QPvjhoFK06LCUFwNAWDn%252BZgjCVCO2OdgeAXKIoR%252Fr0i2GWHG%252Fh0bFwrqNqVP9PQzVDtyXwKn4ZeuFZS4FAYwdmb0ZbOA6UfXl5e%252Fex4%252BfV5om2xEkW7TISrbu76RWTbaA%252FHF%252FdtQ4tZYrQsYzuFyuhzy0CpWdRFY%252FAkrncUBQtjos%252Fi6N1%252BEOULr0ih0Sxq4NnOG6qOvyNSXhurxYIsNtDJK95xxD1WQRDDJd3baVH30HtaymuPkKEgb4Kf4%252BcClJRis70SvxSyQsjhtifKUoM0DxjwIffSLhM%252Bt2XU3yDQGurv2X7sd1uEXmxWtAi88rK1oQuWji%252BfXud5GzJ2uQHWsLM4UQdpp%252FvcDM1O0HWxiZGH1oRmxB5%252BT1Do2kjwcLjTSqpsOV4PVha9hC2pEL6v%252FrtgHEOWpNt8MumLRbWMBaRiXuNajtSP%252FJ3K73ijLRZX%252BvI466GeTYKtqs5cY%252BhfS7XEAlGvQrMYDMTrj%252B0Eg82aUfbIpaVy7f%252FnNNyVk1ClsEiaWS9MhSVLgClCmf28JoOdSdSXefo23eCShLK3rKmvNvzh%252F%252BGOKHqs%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675
I’ll look and see if I can find one, but most people drill them out. The only one I know of is the original part which won’t solve the problem as it will still need drilled out.
I fully agree with you with keeping it OEM and using only American parts made by American workers, and NOT supporting the Chinese, but this was only a test just to see if it would work or not
Where do you think Lawn Boy (Toro) got these carbs in the first place? Guaranteed that they too came from mainland China, albeit with a different stamping on them and triple the price. This is why all the tooling still exists... in China!
I bought a similar carb, it did not run correctly, it ran too slow and would not increase speed at the governor adjust, it ran very poor and overly smoky, after seeing your dismantled aftermarket I concluded mine was missing the main jet from the emulsion tube, i used it as parts to rebuild the original carb, the LB cork float was gas logged, the gas tank would drain into the engine when sitting in the garden shed unused, then it would start and dump the excess fuel out the exhaust and massive clouds of smoke,
My 10247 runs way better on a Chinese carburetor. Suttle differences like the jet and nozzle are one piece unlike the lawnboy carburetor. It didn't come with a fuel filter in it either. I like oem parts and prefer over aftermarket, but this mower would not run right with oem carb. It would sputter, and not idle correctly. I tried changing the pilot jet messed around with govenor, and it refuses to run right. So the Chinese carburetor is fine for now.
@@lawnboyR how to tell Dura Force Engine ?, my Carburetor is Black Plastic with White Air Vane and white Round plastic Notched Wheel to Adjust RPM , has Black Color Fuel Tank , MUFFLER is Below Deck Next to BLADE . i think is a 1996 , 32:1 mix
@@jonienglish3231 if the muffler is below the deck then it is an F engine lawn boy. The carburetors appear to be the same on the outside but they are jetted different to run with the F engine. Also the bolt holes are slightly farther apart on the F engine than on the Duraforce. So the carburetor I showed in the video will not work for your mower. Sorry
just installed one of these on my mower and it wont run. the throttle spring broke on my old carb, thought i'd be saving time getting the whole assembly.
If I may, the problem with those cheap Chinese parts is not with their origin. Asians have been making the OEM replacement parts for years. The price differential (compared to OEM) results in good part from higher tolerances allowed in production and/or lower grade components. OEM (or reputable alternate brands) impose higher production quality control so each and every component is within specs. Different glossiness between the bowl and body of the carb should be a warning. That plastic mightshine now but look for it becoming brittle and cracking down in a seson or two.
You are absolutely true, I think that will be a big problem. The one I had might work fine while one that another person gets could have a slightly different size jet making theirs run poor or not run all together.
It's amazing that the old lawn boys from the 70's to 90's still have perfectly functional original carburetors
Yea, that’s when they still used good metal carbs and not the plastic ones like on the Duraforce engines.
Great video. Very thorough. Thanks for the info. it was very educational and helpful.
Thanks!
Very detailed and good video, thank you. At 2:07, I also noticed that the primer input on the carburetor seemed possibly blocked with some plastic debris inside, which perhaps explains why you had such a hard time priming it.
Great point!
This video is super in-depth, I like it!
Glad you enjoyed it. I try to make them pretty in depth!
One small point watching you fight with the float bowl screws. Both the genuine/OEM Lawnboy carbs I have and apparently these don't use Phillips head screws, but rather Posi-drive. Posi-drive headed screws usually are identified by hash marks between each "lobe" of the screwdriver. In some ways it's actually a superior design and less likely to strip than Phillips provided that you have the correct screwdriver.
Do yourself a favor before working on one of these again and get a #2 Posi-drive screwdriver. You CAN find them in some electronics tool kits as they are sometimes used on electronic equipment. I have regular screwdrivers in #0 to #3 size as I also work on British cars and the vast majority of screws you find on MGs, etc, are Posi-drive. With the right driver, these will come right out and won't strip regardless of how tight they are.
Thanks for the good advice about posi-Drive screws!
Bought one from Ebay and have had it on a season. Burns rich. Mower uses about 1/4 more fuel than it did. I Had to clean spark plug once. Odd problem it would not run with the spark plug wire connected to the plug, but pull wire off the plug about 3/8" and it ran fine. I found this out when I was checking it for spark. I could see good spark. Cleaned plug and it went back to working normally again.
That’s interesting. Hopefully it continues to work for you this season!
Very good and informative video! Now they should make them for the f engines!
I agree!
And more specifically the Meatal Walbro version!
@@lawnboyR yes, That would be awesome!
That’s why I like to drain my gas before I repair my 73 7262 mower. I might loose a bit of gas but I don’t spill too much on the deck
Unfortunately I always do repairs at the wrong time... right after I fill up the tank!
Excellent review. I have an F series.
Cool, thanks!
Did you buy it on e-bay? Could you leave a link please? Great vid, I'm thinking of getting a spare just to have on hand.
Here is a link to a similar one in the video (the listing for the one I bought is gone, but they are all pretty much the same) sorry for the very long link.
www.ebay.com/itm/392686973089?_trkparms=aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142838%26meid%3D50c101203b0b4668836d5718459be7b3%26pid%3D101197%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D194003787517%26itm%3D392686973089%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV101HighAdFee&_trksid=p2047675.c101197.m1850&amdata=cksum%3A39268697308950c101203b0b4668836d5718459be7b3%7Cenc%3AAQAFAAAB8AiKyALKlwWFInEOLAGXAtPXbGOWGMHzpim6capNeTL%252Ftp1eQJyJvUb0O1a%252B%252B%252FOOgIeH%252F4LW5qU%252BTWNGIeYYuX%252FEhTU9QPvjhoFK06LCUFwNAWDn%252BZgjCVCO2OdgeAXKIoR%252Fr0i2GWHG%252Fh0bFwrqNqVP9PQzVDtyXwKn4ZeuFZS4FAYwdmb0ZbOA6UfXl5e%252Fex4%252BfV5om2xEkW7TISrbu76RWTbaA%252FHF%252FdtQ4tZYrQsYzuFyuhzy0CpWdRFY%252FAkrncUBQtjos%252Fi6N1%252BEOULr0ih0Sxq4NnOG6qOvyNSXhurxYIsNtDJK95xxD1WQRDDJd3baVH30HtaymuPkKEgb4Kf4%252BcClJRis70SvxSyQsjhtifKUoM0DxjwIffSLhM%252Bt2XU3yDQGurv2X7sd1uEXmxWtAi88rK1oQuWji%252BfXud5GzJ2uQHWsLM4UQdpp%252FvcDM1O0HWxiZGH1oRmxB5%252BT1Do2kjwcLjTSqpsOV4PVha9hC2pEL6v%252FrtgHEOWpNt8MumLRbWMBaRiXuNajtSP%252FJ3K73ijLRZX%252BvI466GeTYKtqs5cY%252BhfS7XEAlGvQrMYDMTrj%252B0Eg82aUfbIpaVy7f%252FnNNyVk1ClsEiaWS9MhSVLgClCmf28JoOdSdSXefo23eCShLK3rKmvNvzh%252F%252BGOKHqs%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675
Could you tell me what Briggs slow jet will solve my surging issue.
Thanks much
I’ll look and see if I can find one, but most people drill them out. The only one I know of is the original part which won’t solve the problem as it will still need drilled out.
Some work ok. Theirs nothing like OEM parts. And your helping your fellow Americans stay employed. You order Chinese, you eat Chinese !
I fully agree with you with keeping it OEM and using only American parts made by American workers, and NOT supporting the Chinese, but this was only a test just to see if it would work or not
Where do you think Lawn Boy (Toro) got these carbs in the first place? Guaranteed that they too came from mainland China, albeit with a different stamping on them and triple the price. This is why all the tooling still exists... in China!
I bought a similar carb, it did not run correctly, it ran too slow and would not increase speed at the governor adjust, it ran very poor and overly smoky, after seeing your dismantled aftermarket I concluded mine was missing the main jet from the emulsion tube, i used it as parts to rebuild the original carb, the LB cork float was gas logged, the gas tank would drain into the engine when sitting in the garden shed unused, then it would start and dump the excess fuel out the exhaust and massive clouds of smoke,
Glad I could help!
My 10247 runs way better on a Chinese carburetor. Suttle differences like the jet and nozzle are one piece unlike the lawnboy carburetor. It didn't come with a fuel filter in it either.
I like oem parts and prefer over aftermarket, but this mower would not run right with oem carb. It would sputter, and not idle correctly. I tried changing the pilot jet messed around with govenor, and it refuses to run right. So the Chinese carburetor is fine for now.
Good Info, thanks for commenting!
Fyi your issue is those are pozidriv head screws not Phillips
Thanks for the advice!
Does it still surge?
Very slightly, the Chinese just copied the same size Pilate jet and did not enlarge it.
will this FIT a Lawnboy 10601 ?
I tried to look up your model online but had no luck. Does you mower have the DuraForce engine? if it does it will fit. If not it will not fit.
@@lawnboyR how to tell Dura Force Engine ?, my Carburetor is Black Plastic with White Air Vane and white Round plastic Notched Wheel to Adjust RPM , has Black Color Fuel Tank , MUFFLER is Below Deck Next to BLADE .
i think is a 1996 , 32:1 mix
@@jonienglish3231 if the muffler is below the deck then it is an F engine lawn boy. The carburetors appear to be the same on the outside but they are jetted different to run with the F engine. Also the bolt holes are slightly farther apart on the F engine than on the Duraforce. So the carburetor I showed in the video will not work for your mower. Sorry
@@lawnboyR Thanks for REPLY
my Rebuild of 22270 - ruclips.net/video/ykSguOk6syg/видео.html
No you have an F engine, you need the walboro
Part number
just installed one of these on my mower and it wont run. the throttle spring broke on my old carb, thought i'd be saving time getting the whole assembly.
Thanks for commenting and letting us know your experience with these nock offs.
@@lawnboyR Further inspection revealed a crack in the carb housing where one of the bowl screws threads in