I wish that more people would explain stuff to me like I was a less than genius 5 year old though. The adult world is filled with people who don't want to explain stuff for various reasons.
Over the years I've come to realise that "Full Grain " is as misleading a term as "Genuine Leather " (which incidentally can be good leather as it's not legally defined ). If you look at "full grain" calf leather shoes for example you don't see a natural leather surface. You mostly see a relatively shiny, smooth and heavily dyed surface. It may be "full grain" but it doesn't mean that the surface hasn't been heavily altered through pigment/dyeing, sealing/glazing, water resistant treatment or oiling/waxing etc.. And there's a continuous series of surface treatments all the way up to a full acrylic coating with no clear definition of when it becomes "corrected". Regarding nubuck, I suspect the main reasons for using it is price, leather availability and also for cosmetic and consistency reasons. It allows cheaper hides to be used with more scars and bite marks and therefore can be used in cheaper boots and it also allows them to use hides from cattle in parts of the world where bite marks and tears are more common. There's a finite supply of high quality leather and a lot more people in the world wanting it than there used to be. Plus a lot of the best leather used to come from veal calves kept in crates and that has been outlawed by the EU. It also allows colour and surface consistency in (for example) the Timberland boots you show. You could line up half a dozen pairs of Timberland boots and they'd all look the same whereas a non sanded leather would have colour and surface texture differences. And consumers not used to "natural" leather products may not like that. The reverse suede used in CF Stead's Janus suede (and other European tanneries reverse suedes) is calf suede. As calf skins are thinner it is possible to have "full grain suede" without splitting ( I believe they shave off some of the corium ) and have 1.6mm to 1.8mm thickness suitable for dress shoes. I suspect the roughout coming from American tanneries is from older cattle and hence thicker.
@@Bootlosophy No but when you think about it, it does get tricky. Especially for "corrected" leather. I've footwear with a very heavy pigment/coating which water just runs off but will still accept conditioner and cream. In fact my black Thursday Captains are like that (and are very different from the brown Captains with allegedly the same leather). Then there's a leather colour like white which requires a very heavy pigment to make it white and will always be "corrected" by some people's definition. Regarding "genuine leather" this again is used by many retailers even for full grain or high quality leather. It is used interchangeably with "real leather" and you'll see good quality leather items described as genuine leather. Finally, I suspect that the standards organisations haven't kept up with the technology as tanneries develop ever more "imaginative" coatings and treatments to developing leather products for various markets in a world where people want leather items but frequently want convenience and consistency and don't want to maintain them. It's only weird people like us that value patina and like caring for our leather items. Leather tanning, despite often using ancient techniques is an evolving industry and the variety of leathers available today seems to be expanding all the time.
Thank for this. Very educational and long overdue. Kind of like the watch industry, no real standardization on what is what. I’m glad to see content makers like you bringing this type of awareness to what can be a very confusing topic.
Brilliant! I'll admit, having remained dazed and confused till now, that I took screenshots and made notes. I can now refer to my awesome cheat sheet. Bloody Playschool....genuis! Thank you Teik.
This is the best explanation i've seen so far. I was a bit confused about the terms and differences, but your video really helped clarify everything. Thank you.
Teik, this was first video to give definitions of leather types. Yes I am still confused but that way I learn to become a novice. Thanks for the lesson and I would never buy a boot from you. My foot is larger than yours. Keep the videos coming from down under. Your friend from north of the Equator, Alex.
I love my rough out suede Coniston boots by Crockett and Jones. The more i wear them the better they look, I'm in England worn them in all conditions, rain, sleet, snow without any problems although i no allow to dry naturally if they get soaked in cedar boots tree's before wearing again. Excellent video explaining the various leathers
This is awesome, Teik. I just ordered the same Cordobes boot in chocolate roughout and the sneak peek you gave us has me so excited. I chose a leather sole with a half-lug on the c-100 last. This sneak peek already looks like it has a better finishing than the last cordobes you posted. Glad you gave them another shot. They’re learning and seems like they’re open to suggestions.
Hi Teik, I was wondering what kind of watch you are wearing in this video? Pretty nice looking timepiece. I'm asking because I am actually shopping around for one. Anyway another informative video. Love the content.
I just bought some Sanders in C. F Stead waxy commander suede. 1st boots I've owned with Stead leathers and they look awesome. Sanders are a brand worth looking at Teik. Good company with a good history
Wow! I knew much of this in bits and pieces, but your video does an outstanding job and of connecting the entire leather lifecycle, from hair to flesh...and everything in between. You definitely answer some of my misunderstandings of Washed Flesh and Washed Suede. Enjoyed!
If I am not careful I learn something new every day. Thank you for the great lesson! I actually wore my Higgins Mill boots today with lots of spring time snow. (3 inches). Please keep educating us.
@@Bootlosophy Understood, just wearing Abilene leather right now on my Red Wings and it seems to be rough out that is sanded slightly. Rough out that is not that rough.
I wish that more people would explain stuff to me like I was a less than genius 5 year old though. The adult world is filled with people who don't want to explain stuff for various reasons.
Over the years I've come to realise that "Full Grain " is as misleading a term as "Genuine Leather " (which incidentally can be good leather as it's not legally defined ).
If you look at "full grain" calf leather shoes for example you don't see a natural leather surface. You mostly see a relatively shiny, smooth and heavily dyed surface. It may be "full grain" but it doesn't mean that the surface hasn't been heavily altered through pigment/dyeing, sealing/glazing, water resistant treatment or oiling/waxing etc.. And there's a continuous series of surface treatments all the way up to a full acrylic coating with no clear definition of when it becomes "corrected".
Regarding nubuck, I suspect the main reasons for using it is price, leather availability and also for cosmetic and consistency reasons.
It allows cheaper hides to be used with more scars and bite marks and therefore can be used in cheaper boots and it also allows them to use hides from cattle in parts of the world where bite marks and tears are more common. There's a finite supply of high quality leather and a lot more people in the world wanting it than there used to be. Plus a lot of the best leather used to come from veal calves kept in crates and that has been outlawed by the EU.
It also allows colour and surface consistency in (for example) the Timberland boots you show. You could line up half a dozen pairs of Timberland boots and they'd all look the same whereas a non sanded leather would have colour and surface texture differences. And consumers not used to "natural" leather products may not like that.
The reverse suede used in CF Stead's Janus suede (and other European tanneries reverse suedes) is calf suede. As calf skins are thinner it is possible to have "full grain suede" without splitting ( I believe they shave off some of the corium ) and have 1.6mm to 1.8mm thickness suitable for dress shoes. I suspect the roughout coming from American tanneries is from older cattle and hence thicker.
In Summary - they can’t get it together in defining things!!!
@@Bootlosophy No but when you think about it, it does get tricky. Especially for "corrected" leather. I've footwear with a very heavy pigment/coating which water just runs off but will still accept conditioner and cream. In fact my black Thursday Captains are like that (and are very different from the brown Captains with allegedly the same leather). Then there's a leather colour like white which requires a very heavy pigment to make it white and will always be "corrected" by some people's definition. Regarding "genuine leather" this again is used by many retailers even for full grain or high quality leather. It is used interchangeably with "real leather" and you'll see good quality leather items described as genuine leather. Finally, I suspect that the standards organisations haven't kept up with the technology as tanneries develop ever more "imaginative" coatings and treatments to developing leather products for various markets in a world where people want leather items but frequently want convenience and consistency and don't want to maintain them. It's only weird people like us that value patina and like caring for our leather items. Leather tanning, despite often using ancient techniques is an evolving industry and the variety of leathers available today seems to be expanding all the time.
Thank for this. Very educational and long overdue. Kind of like the watch industry, no real standardization on what is what. I’m glad to see content makers like you bringing this type of awareness to what can be a very confusing topic.
Brilliant! I'll admit, having remained dazed and confused till now, that I took screenshots and made notes. I can now refer to my awesome cheat sheet. Bloody Playschool....genuis! Thank you Teik.
Is it possible to make Corrected grain polished leather (or bookbinder) shoes less shiny? Maybe rubbing alcohol?
This is the best explanation i've seen so far. I was a bit confused about the terms and differences, but your video really helped clarify everything. Thank you.
Great video, Teik.! well explained and detailed. Clearest explanation I have seen. Thank you.
Teik, this was first video to give definitions of leather types. Yes I am still confused but that way I learn to become a novice. Thanks for the lesson and I would never buy a boot from you. My foot is larger than yours. Keep the videos coming from down under. Your friend from north of the Equator, Alex.
I love my rough out suede Coniston boots by Crockett and Jones. The more i wear them the better they look, I'm in England worn them in all conditions, rain, sleet, snow without any problems although i no allow to dry naturally if they get soaked in cedar boots tree's before wearing again. Excellent video explaining the various leathers
What leather would you recommend for a snowy and rainy environment? Does cxl stain when wet? Thanks
This is awesome, Teik. I just ordered the same Cordobes boot in chocolate roughout and the sneak peek you gave us has me so excited. I chose a leather sole with a half-lug on the c-100 last. This sneak peek already looks like it has a better finishing than the last cordobes you posted. Glad you gave them another shot. They’re learning and seems like they’re open to suggestions.
Man this was really cool! The visual aids were absolutely my favorite part. Please make more videos like this!
Which type of leather is good for harder wearing, please
Thank you sir, I'm learning new things to the video .❤
Can you help me understand CF Steads Rambler leather? I understand it's a flesh-out but the inside of the leather feels like suede.
Hi Teik, I was wondering what kind of watch you are wearing in this video? Pretty nice looking timepiece. I'm asking because I am actually shopping around for one. Anyway another informative video. Love the content.
It’s an old Seiko sports watch (I don’t know the exact model) that used to belong to my father-in-law.
Thanks! I'll check them out
Fantastic rundown! Btw, ive been subbed since like the 2k mark lol. Keep on making awesome content :)
Thanks mate!
I appreciate the fine explanation of different boot leathers. New to the leather boot world.
Brilliant video. One of your best. Extremely informative, especially with the props!
😝 🖍️
Waw. Thanks Teik. You are genius!
Probably the best breakout of each of these categories. Thanks Teik.
Nicely explained
Awesome explanation
I just bought some Sanders in C. F Stead waxy commander suede. 1st boots I've owned with Stead leathers and they look awesome.
Sanders are a brand worth looking at Teik. Good company with a good history
Wow! I knew much of this in bits and pieces, but your video does an outstanding job and of connecting the entire leather lifecycle, from hair to flesh...and everything in between. You definitely answer some of my misunderstandings of Washed Flesh and Washed Suede. Enjoyed!
If I am not careful I learn something new every day. Thank you for the great lesson! I actually wore my Higgins Mill boots today with lots of spring time snow. (3 inches). Please keep educating us.
Great explanation of leather properties!
and Abilene leather?
Yeah, but as I said in the video I’m not really dealing with tannages, just types of leather
@@Bootlosophy Understood, just wearing Abilene leather right now on my Red Wings and it seems to be rough out that is sanded slightly. Rough out that is not that rough.
Excellent video Teik, thank you!!
I left out Shell! Next time!
Who is the Wedget people ?
Google Whadjuk