I have been homebrewing for two years and this is my favourite recipe so far. I try to experiment with other beer types and other recipes but this verdant ipa has to be every other batch. 😅 Beautiful colour, nice aroma, balanced bitterness, optimal strength, perfect beer... 😁 Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏻 Greetings from Hungary 🍻
Great to hear. Pomona is also a very good IPA yeast that is well worth trying. I am a couple of videos about it and a recipe already shared with another being shared on Wednesday 🍻🍻🍻
As usual a huge amount of information presented in a very professional and clear way. Perfect! Many thanks for all that you do, this one is added to my list!
Just had my first glass of this and wow! Beautiful stone fruit aromas and super balanced. Absolutely delicious. My first beer that’s tasted like it was made commercially. Thanks David 🙏
Brewed this 3 times now altering the recipe just a tad for 2 of the brews. The original recipe is excellent! Cheers to sharing amazing and very yummy beer recipes. Thank you!!!
Hi David, from the recipe I couldn't see the amount of hops required during the boil, but then found them on the Brewfather link, as: 25 g (13 IBU) - Centennial 8.5% - Boil - 10 min 25 g (18 IBU) - Mosaic 12% - Boil - 10 min 25 g (4 IBU) - Centennial 8.5% - Aroma - 20 min hopstand @ 80 °C 25 g (6 IBU) - Mosaic 12% - Aroma - 20 min hopstand @ 80 °C Thanks for another great video / recipe. Brad
Yeast is ridiculous! Going absolutely crazy and brew smells superb. Neipa is going straight onto this yeast once this one is finished. Many thanks for the recipe
Hi David I have brewed this beer several times now and it is my favourite brew of this style. I have always used Standard porridge oats in my brews but have recently obtained some CRISP flaked oats that include husks. Is this what you have used in your recipe ? Cheers Mitch
I've just tasted my first brewed batch of this beer. It tastes great, and it's only been botteled two weeks ago! Thank you for sharing this great recipe! Cheers Maarten
Hey David, thank you for this nice recipe! Inspired by your video, I made a similar one. I´ve had Centennial and Galaxy hops at home so I used those at the same ratio, and what came out was great! I live in germany, and there is an Ice lolly called "langnese split", it has a vanilla ice core sealed by maracuja/orange ice. And this beers aroma really took me back into my childhood buying a split at the lake in summer. Love it!
Brewed this a few weeks ago with brew in a bag. In the keg now for just over a week. Taste is just how you describe. Very smooth and fruity, Its definitely more sweet than other IPAs ive done. Not overly hoppy. Hard to believe its a 6% beer. So easy to drink. Could get into trouble with this one. Think it will only improve with time. Not that it will last that long. Thx for the recipe mate.
thanks for this video, its months since i first used it after your recommendation and its always in my fridge shelf now and the aroma and flavours from this are fantastic
Thanks Andy, that is great to hear. I have something else coming that uses this yeast that has rocked my summer. It should be ready in video form in a 3-4 weeks.
David, I just made this beer, and I have to say it is fantastic. Thanks so much for the recipe, this is probably the best beer I've brewed to date. I ended up keg hopping with 2oz Centennial and 2oz Mosaic because I do not have a hop rocket and desired more aroma, and I would 100% do this again. I look forward to trying more of your recipes, I think the Big Man American Stout may be next. Cheers.
When you say that you ended up keg hopping......do you mean that you didn't put those last 4 oz of hops into the fermenter for 3 days and instead put them directly into the keg? Did you leave those hops in the keg for the duration of serving the entire keg (like in David's NEIPA Second Generation) or did you pull at some point? Did you use a bag or SS mesh hop cylinder. When fermentation is complete, I'm considering just putting those last 4 oz in mesh cylinder and dropping into keg for duration. Any other advise?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David, I have a "dry hop keg mesh filter". I think I'll hang it in the fermenter for the 3 days the recipe calls for then pull it and drop it into the keg unless I'm missing something.
Re brewing it today. Will change the water from hoppy to neipa and leave the floc away. Really looking forward seeing the difference! It will be ready just in time for summer vacation!
Great video. Will give this a try as my next brew and first attempt with Verdant. The video shows two empty packets but the recipe calls for one. Is it worth throwing two in "to be sure"?
Going to brew this one soon. Added into my batch list. Also enjoyed your breakfast stout recipe and found it delightful. I’m Beginning to trust your taste buds as they seem to coincide with mine in many areas.
Hi David, I'm planning on brewing a 19L batch in my brewmonk b40. I havr the same yeast (1 package) would you recommend making a starter first or is adding the dry yeast to my fermenter just fine?
This will be my next brew for sure! Looking absolutely delicious. I imported the recipe into Brewfather, but wondering how it ends up when you dry hop for three days starting at the end of fermentation: Does that mean that you transfer the beer to keg after after about 4+3 days in the fermenter? Or do you dump the hops after 3 days of dry hopping? Thank you!
Great video David, I wanted to ask you something if it's possible, I know how to make an APA with this yeast, is it normal that it's still rising for 23 days? What should I do, can I bottle it or should I wait any longer? Thanks if you can answer me.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi, thanks for answering me, the OG was 1040 on 06/02, now I've tried the FG on 01/03 at 11.00 am it's 1006. I also tasted it and it has an amazing aroma, in fact I used Solero as the hop as aroma and dry hop.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi, yesterday I bottled, I hope the bottles won't explode, however I put 6 g/l of sugar for 15 days of rest. If a good beer comes out, I would be happy if you would take a look at it for any advice on how to improve it. One last question if possible, I use Dingemans Pale Ale base malt for my beers, my beer style is APA and IPA, I'd like to use Simpsons Maris Otter malt because I've heard good things about it, what do you say? ?Thank you. PS: Don't look at my writing because I'm Italian and I'm writing with the translator.
Thanks for a nice video. I will try to brew this recipe as soon as possible .I`m not sure if I understand the hop additions wright. Does it mean that i shall add the @10 min. hop addition after 20 min. if choose a 30 min. boil.
Hi and thanks for the recipe and video. I just brewed this and it is currently fermenting in the Fermzilla. Today is day 5 at 19C. I will rise temperature to 22 over the next three days and then cool and carbonate (add pressure to the Fermzilla) and then transfer to keg and bottles. Should I also add the dry hop today? If so, should I remove them after three days when I start cooling and carbonating or should I just let the hop stay? Or should I wait with dry hopping until I start cooling? I look forward to your feedback. Cheers.
Hi, I suggest adding the dry hops when you are 5-10 gravity points away from FG. They can remain for up to five days, which is enough time usually to see it finish and be ready for transfer .
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Is it equally important to terminate hop contact when the beer in the fermenter is cold or can I let it stay a couple of days more then?
Hi David, I am planning to make this one as my first IPA brew. So far I've done only brews where sugar needed to be added before bottling for carbonation. No need for this here?
Great, I hope you enjoy the process and the results. You always need to add sugar to bottles for carbonation. I would suggest you look at kegging though. This is far easier and less time consuming. I have various guides on the subject 🍻🍻😎
Great videos David. I'd never thought to use a hop sock in the Rocket/Missile. That's brilliant. For years I've seen hop leaves dissappearing into my plate chiller even through I have a Y filter from the Rocket exit. I tried the sock last time and it worked very well. Keep the jokes and word bubbles coming in the videos - they crack me up. Maybe a video on how the different malts contibute different flavour, as your design explanation discusses briefly in this video. Cheers!
Hi! Great and substantive material. I want to brew beer according to your recipe but I don't have a hopstand. How do I modify the recipe so that I can brew the beer in something like grainfather? I want the taste to be as similar to your beer as possible. I am asking for a hint. Thank you.
You could change the recipe so the hop stand is at a high temperature. Though buying or making an immersion chiller is not very expensive. Well worth having for hop stands.
Hi David, wish you a very happy 2021 at the outset. I usually follow the no chill method, mainly because I end up saving a lot of water. Given the v late hopping schedule for this recipe, should I follow it as is or push back the hopping times a tad to avoid the excess bitterness? I'm inclined to keep it as is but thot I'd ask your views on it (and on the no chill method, in general.) Regards . Ravil
Hi David. First off, cheers for all of your work in putting out such great videos! I currently don't have the ability to keg so I bottle all my beers (transfer to bottling bucket and batch prime). Is this beer suitable for that? Or am i gonna have oxidation issues? Cheers
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the quick response! Was just a bit worried as I've read that really hoppy beers sometimes don't bottle well. But now Ill definitely be brewing this one next! Cheers
Hi David, great video as always ! I'm a big fan I brewed it a few weeks ago without taking care of my water profile but it was still amazing. What could you suggest about water profile ? Could I use the Hoppy profile from brewfather ? something else? What about PH? Thank you so much for sharing all tthis knowledge
Hi David, I was super excited to try out this recipe and hop missile and I could eventually get all the things for it and brewed it yesterday. Looking forward to the result, although my OG seems a bit too low but... We shall see. Quick question, my beer was less clean that the one showing in your video. It seems to me that the fermentation is very short (8 days-10days?). That's very short no? Would you still recommend yeast dump every 3-4 days on this? (Referring to your video on the grainfatger fermenter routine for yeast dump). Thanks a lot, and thanks for all of these so useful videos
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Just thought I'd report back on this. I just had my first sample from the keg today. Simply mind blowing....and really quaffable. I did exactly what you warned us not to do...drank loads really quickly...then it hit me like a train. : P
Hello. Thank you so much for your really interesting and educational videos. I'll try the recipe soon and was wondering if cold crashing this beer would be good to make it cleaner? If so, how long to reach the cold crash temp and would you bottle straight after cold crash is done and beer back to room temperature? Thanks again
Hi, great to hear, thank you. Sure you can cold crash this one if you are looking for clarity. 1-3 days is usually enough. You can transfer the beer cold, it will take longer for the yeast to become reactive to the added sugar is all.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks a lot for this really nice and quick answer. Would it mean I'd need to schedule my dry hop later or does the cold stops the oils from the hop to infuse ? Does a progressive (several day) temperature decrease would avoid the starsan and oxygen to be suck in? It's a lot of questions sorry about that but there is so much to learn and understand
This beer has changed in the keg over the last 4 weeks. It's transformed in to what I consider to be a hoppy, fruity pale ale. It has also gone bright. Unexpected but I still consider it very good, perhaps even more to my taste. Thankfully, there are no off-flavours at all and the colour is similar, more gold perhaps. Hops still dominate but they are more subtle. So I don't think it's oxidised, more of an aging effect perhaps? My only deviation from the recipe was to add gelatin to fin the beer. Perhaps this has not only clarified the beer but removed some hop oil as well? In any case, a clear brewing "win". Good after a week, great after two, different but great in a different way after 4 weeks. Thanks David.
Great to hear Adam. Yes this is pretty normal and why IPA styles are often considered best when drunk fresh. You can negate this some with the keg dry hop.
Awesome recipe David Heath! i have used he verdant yeast on a few hazy's after watching your video's... for the hop rocket device..is it better than just using a spider?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew that is interesting as i have had a few brews where i think that the use of the spider has limited utilisation and the hop spider does not it seems..
A general rule of thumb is the add 10% extra hops when using a hop spider. This is to compensate utilisation issues. I find them useful for candi sugar personally.
My wife and I just tasted this beer and we are extremely happy with the way it turned out. Dangerously drinkable! David what crush do you use for a Brewzilla gen 3? I am running into efficiency issues and I get my grain milled from online beer retailers. Thinking about investing in a mill. Any suggestions for efficiency boosts? Thanks for all that you do! Cheers!
Cheers Paul, great to hear. Grain crush is not universal and is more about the grain sizes you have locally. I suggest one of these personally. Fast and easy to use:- ruclips.net/video/6pDC7Ysy_Uc/видео.html
David, I'm interested in your comment about the aeration of some yeasts - is that all dry yeasts that don't need (want?) aeration, or are there still instances with higher ABV beers, like Imperial Stouts, where they benefit from aeration?
This information came from a study made by fermentis.This study found that the yeast starting would be faster but so is the chance of the yeast stopping early.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok, thanks David. I feel like there could be value in 'myths and misconceptions' series that covers some of this intermediate 'knowledge' that we've all gained from various sources and old books :)
Thanks again David, another added to the to brew list. Did you simply recirculate the wort through the hop missile for 20 minutes once it was at 80c before chilling it right down to pitching temp and into the fermenter?
David would one package of this yeast be sufficient for a 20L batch without the yeast nutrients? I have a brew on right now and during the first few days my wort had a milky covering of yeast but little to no activity in the bubbler. I did agitate the fermenter and it did seem to liven up a bit for a day but am concerned that it never had a chance to finish. I will be taking a sample today to check FG.
I messed up by adding the first hop addition at 10 minutes into the boil and it has come out a little bitter. Still a very nice beer and will definitely try again. One question... if I was to scale this to a 25lt batch would I still only need one packet of yeast?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It has just been in the bottle for a week and was trying a sample so I know it will definitely mellow out a bit. Surprisingly well carbed for 7 days and I reckon in another 2 weeks will be a great... but could be better (my fault 😝). Cheers. Most 25lt kits I get only include 1 sachet.
Hi David, I made this recently and it was fantastic. I had a slight astringency taste in it but it's something I can't fix on my beers atm. Going for batch 2 now and I notice on the brewfather app you don't select a target water profile and just use general. These ratios should give a less bitter beer?? Thanks
Hi liam, I suggest using a hoppy water profile. Are you adjusting your water and are sure that your source profile is accurate? Water company data is not something I put trust in.
Hi David, thanks for the reply. I use RO water and use brewfather for water treatment amounts. It only started after I started treating my water and the extreme bitterness is there in the wort before fermentation usually. It has got better. I'm trying different things but still a bit stumped
Hi David. I have just brewed this one and cant wait to taste it. I usually brew with kveik, and harvest the yeast for drying. Could I do the same with this yeast. And if so, how much would you pitch? Usually I pitch 1-2 grams of kveik, for a 19 l. batch.
Hi David, Quick one, when you were going through the malts, in the mashing stage, what is the item on top of the over flow tube? I’ve never seen one of them. And I noticed how quick you had the recirculating going - how did you have it filtering through the grain so quicky, looked like it was quiet balanced even though it was going so quick?
Hi David. Great looking beer. The water profile you have for this beer on Brewfather has around a 1.8:1 sulfate to cloride ratio. Shouldn’t it be the opposite way round for a juicy style ipa like this? Just trying to plan my water additions to brew this recipe. Any advice appreciated
Hi David I brewed this recipe and just had my first pint. A fantastic recipe and I will definitely be brewing it again Thanks for all your help and suggestions in your videos keep it up
Hi David, great tutorial. We are thinking of brewing with the Verdant IPA yeast and as I'm sold on your recipe was wondering if we could mention that we found it on your channel. No worries if not and we still intend to brew this beer as we are only now exploring IPA's
Hello David, truly enjoy your videos.. thank you. I am about to brew this beer and going to ferment in my brand new kegmenter using the "under pressure". What do you reccomend as far as psi settings for the spundit valve, and what is the best way to add dry hops into a pressurized kegmenter?
Thanks Luca. I suggest skipping pressure for the first 4 days to allow the yeast to contribute its flavour and aroma. Then 10-12 PSI is ideal. To add dry hops you will need to remove all pressure first via the PRV. Open, add, then close back up. Pressure will build again naturally if you add the dry hops when 5-10 SG away from predicted FG.
Thanks for the recipe David and for bringing this yeast to my attention - I have ordered some to try and will give your recipe a spin for Christmas. What's you approach to the dry hopping? At what point are you adding the dry hops and are you racking off them after three days?
Hi Gary, Great that you found this interesting :) I always add my dry hops just before fermentation end. If I can time it within the last 5 gravity points then this is on target. You can use your hop rocket in the same way as I use the missile with pellets. I show more on this during this video:- ruclips.net/video/Xu1VLhLKWX4/видео.html
Hello, video is extremely helpful and full of information. The only question that comes to mind is why would a pressure fermentation would not work with this yeast? Thank you!!
Hi David. Thank you for another great video, keep em coming :-) If I was to go the Kveik way, wich Kveik would you recommend and is it even possible with this recipe?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David, a comparison chart I saw oddly put their Vienna next to maris otter as a sub which I thought was odd. Go your Xmas stout sitting in the keg ready for the week before Christmas 👍
Thanks for another great video, I'll try this one next. Apologies if this has been asked before but how long would you leave this in secondary. I tend to bottle and then give 10 days warm, 3 weeks cold. Is that OK?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David. 14 days warm then ready to drink? Or then time to spend a few weeks chilling? I was just reading advice about giving beers a week per OG hundredth i.e. OG 1.050 needs 5 weeks. Sounded like a good rough guide??
14 days for carbonation. If it's ale then store as close to 14 deg c as you can for optimum conditioning. If it's lager (and your used lager yeast) then best to store cold for conditioning. I hope this helps.
Hi David, thx for the recipie and tips. Hey I got a massive krausen on this brew and it left a white slime inside the fermentor and the beer (pre cold-crash) is like a milkshake. Is this how it is supposed to be ? I thought it'd be hazy rather than Milkshake. Cheers, Dave from NZ
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David. Normal pressure. Took a gravity sample just now and is clearing up now (cold crashing for 18 hours so far). Looking much more like yours now. Can't wait to try it. Thanks for all your great vids and tips, you're very generous with your knowledge. Rgds. Dave
Hi David. Thanks for the great recipe and tutorial. Can I ask why you recommend 5 days at 19deg before ramping up for this recipe, rather than your 'usual' 7 days for ales? Is Verdant quicker than a say US-05 yeast?
Hi David, How many packages of yeast did you use? The Brewfather recipe states 1 package which seems very little for that kind of beer. I had brewed this recipe with 1 package before and the yeast gave up at 1.015. I just watched the video again and spotted two opened packages.
Hi David, great recipe, thanks! I feel like this is a stupid question, but what crystal malt are you using that's only 20ebc? I have some Simpsons light crystal on hand which I was going to use instead, but that's nearer 100ebc. Thanks!
Brewed this 5 days ago now. In your recipe you are using flaked Oats. Are these simple cereal oatmeal (havregryn) or is it oats that have received some special treatment? I ended up ordering torrefied flaked oats and I'm not sure its the same that you are using. Thanks for a great channel. Im looking forward to tasting this beer in some weeks.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you for the answer. May i ask what you specifically are using? There seems to be a lot of misunderstanding and opinions to what is "correct" when flaked oats are mentioned in a recipe.
It really depends. If I take a recipe from my stock of grain at home then if usually its from a havregryn package from Rema Tusen. If I am at a store and have them put the recipe together than I will buy it there. This is just for unmalted oats of course. Malted oats have gone through a different process. Wheat does confuse people, I have a guide to the different types here:- ruclips.net/video/UIONhpiN0og/видео.html
Hi David and thanks for all the work you put in, much appreciated for a beginner brewer like me. One thing l can’t understant though is why the fixed final gravity at 1.007? Why don’t go by the verdant’s attenuation at 75%? As a happy beginner l guess l must be missing something? Thanks a lot David, Cheers
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your response David. So you say that l should go for that fixed gravity (or a few points up)? Never had a yeast attenuate that low so far so that’s why l’m asking. I’m sure it will turn out great and thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thanks Tomas. Its hard to be precise on this, you can only estimate. Mine finished a couple if points higher on this particular brew but previously went down to 1,007 a couple of time before. We can only estimate :)
Hi David, great video and excellent channel! Just a couple of questions. First, I have read that Verdant seems to let some complex sugars... How did you manage it to get 1009 as final density??? And the other one, maybe I missed it from the video: did you use only one package of dry yeast? Did you make an starter?
Hello David, great video, I will try to make this one during next weekend. However I have two doubts, I was reading the comments and I got the idea that you don’t recommend a starter. In my case I will do a batch of 24 liters and 16 grams of yeast are recommended, however I just have one sachet (11 grams). Should I buy another one instead of do do a starter? The other question is related with cold crash with dry hops (DH). I was reading the comments and answers on this video and in the other video you have just focus on dry hopping, and in some of your comments you ask the people to keep the DH hops during the cold crash, but in another comment you suggest to remove them before cold crash. My plan is: between 5 to 10 points before the final gravity perform the DH, wait three days, and finally perform a 24 hours cold crash using gelatin. Do you agree with this approach, or should I remove the DH hops before cold crash? Thanks for your help, and continue this great job.
Thanks Andre. By all means if you want to make a starter then do. It is just that usually it will be cheaper and easier to use more yeast and the formulation will be unchanged. You can cold crash with dry hops present. You will however get a clearer result usually with them removed.
great video ! Do you observe a decrease in your brewing efficiency with flaks (oats or wheat) ? I tried your NEIPA receipe, all was good except my usual efficiency in beersmith i couldn't obtain (-10% around).
Thank you. Actually no :) I am very careful to give it an extra stirring in at the start of the mash and I watch to make sure that the recirculation is right. If not then I will add a small amount of rice hulls and stir those in and then watch again until it is right. Once right the mash timer starts. Try this, I am sure it will help :)
Thanks for the video. Just back to brewing after a 20 plus year break. Your channel has been a godsend. Quick beginner question though... why wouldnt you use a pressure fermenter with this yeast?
Welcome back to this great hobby :) I am very glad that you have found my content useful. The Verdant yeast has really nice esters that this recipe has been designed to compliment. If you use pressure fermentation then this will stop these esters from forming. Which would be a great pity really :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew could you ferment in a pressure rated FV with the spunding valve fully open for the first few days in order to get the esters, and then set the spunding valve to 12PSI for the remainder of fermentation?
Hi, David! Big thanks for all your great and informative videos. This video gave me the idea of using a regular hop spider combined with the Grainfather counterflow-chiller as a cheap substitute for your hop missile. Just sanitize the chiller as always, maybe add some rice hulls with the 10 min addition, circulate until 80C, then add the hop stand additions and circulate through the hop spider throughout the hop stand. What are your thoughts?
Sorry I must have missed this. I have tried exactly what you are suggesting here. Sadly the results do not compare, if they did then you can be sure that I would have covered it in at least one video.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply! I noticed in the Brewfather recipe that you acidified the spargewater for this brew. Is this something you do in general? Do you ever add salt additions to your spargewater? (I live just south of Oslo, so your acid- and salt practices should apply to my water as well).
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I brewed this recipe last weekend and I'm getting really excited to test the result! One thing tho. I misread the recipe and added the dryhops on day 3. In my case, would you recommend transferring to a keg/closed secondary before cold crash or should I cold crash before kegging?
Hi Snorre that could well lead to some grassy flavours. Not much you can do about that than wait but often they will fade. If you can cold crash before transfer. I cold crash in my kegs but I use this system for serving, which changes things:- ruclips.net/video/qheb2Hy8Obg/видео.html
Hi David, I have the ability to ferment under pressure (kegmenter). I got a great result using pressure with your NEIPA 2nd Gen recipe for DMS burnoff. This recipe doesn't use pressure - would you recommend to stay like this or could I get an enhanced result using pressure, particularly for the second part of fermentation with the temperature rise? Thanks
Hi! we´ve just ended my 25L batch of this one. Not a single person didnt like it!!! Even the ones that doesnt like IPA drank this, a LOT! Thank you so much! oooo btw, I still have my fermenter with the yeast at 4 celcius on about a month... lol, should I reuse? or its better just to throw away?! thx again you are a big inspiration for me! Cheers from your biggest fan on Brasil!
Great to hear, I had the same experience and ive heard the same from others. Its very nice to strike gold with a recipe. Try my latest NEIPA, the next gen. Its different but just as good I believe. After this amount of time it could be ok. I would add it to a starter to bring it into health and then wash it.
Hi David - got this recipe into my fermenter yesterday. I am now thinking about the dry hop and when is best to throw them in. Should the 3 day dry hop coincide with the 3 day temperature ramp up or should I do the dry hop after I get to 22c? I have a feeling most of the fermentation will be over by day 5 just when the ramp up starts so am thinking this is when to throw the hops in
Sorry to bug you again but it's hard to get a straight answer from other sources. I cannot get a cara malt in the 20 ebc range so can I just add half the amount of say cara 40 and bump up the base malts?
@@adamskilton6629 No problem at all Adam, I am happy to help :) Yes, you can certainly do that. Just make sure the EBC is matched in the main recipe too. You will find that you will not get quite the same effect. The lower the EBC of a crystal malt the more background sweet flavours you can obtain but in a recipe like this one with hops and yeast flavour focus this will be very very small.
Sounds good, im not a huge fan of sweet in my beers anyway but do realise it has its place. Thank you for helping out. Love your well thought out and straight to it video style.
Thanks for the video and recipe. In regards to the hop additions in the recipe ....... you give amounts for the dry hop but just IBU for the brewing additions ..... is there a reason for that? how do I translate that to actual amounts cheers Jim
Hi Jim. Yes the reason for this is that some homebrewers were simply using the same amounts of hop. You can be sure that the alpha acids of my hops are different to yours. By supplying the IBU you can use brewing software to calculate how much to use of the hops you obtain. This way you will be brewing the recipe intended and getting the desired results.
David, I've just done this as my first brew. Hit the numbers pretty well bang on. Smells and looks great. In terms of dry hopping I've got a rookie question - do you add the dry hops in at 3 days? Or with 3 days left in the fermentation? Thanks mate
With this yeast I do not recommend pressure as this could remove the fruity esters that make it so special. In general 10-12 PSI is the sweet spot though 🍻🍻
Thanks alot for the awsome recepies David. I just wanted to ask if you can elaborate on the difference from your exellent DIPA. The reasoning with that recepie was to use pilsner malt to have the maltiness stand back and bring forward the hops. This verdant ipa is also a hoppy beer but now it is a very complex malt composition. I am a bit confused here.
The fundamental difference is the level of alcohol between these two styles and recipes. There are also different ways to present different styles according to hop choices, levels of bitterness, BU:GU ratios and so on. Much of these choices are a question of taste also and there are various angles to experiment with. What you could do is brew this one at both 6% and 10% with the same BU:GU ratio and see what you think compared to the DIPA :)
Hiya David, thanks again for another fine recipe. I'm really enthusiastic and going to have a go at this at the weekend, just a few questions if that is okay? 1. As its a hazy brew can I omit Irish Moss? 2. How long should it take to ferment out so I can bottle? 3. At which point do you dry hop (I'm using your tea infuser method) in the first three days, middle, or final three days? 4. Is this yeast good to bottle condition or will I need to add another strain - like with Kveik? Thanks in anticipation!
Thanks Joachim. Sure, no problem at all. 1) Yes 2) Usually in less than a week but I would suggest leaving it for a few more days and it's it is vital to see that it really has finished by checking the FG is not changing over 3 days. 3) I suggest waiting until you are 5-10 points away from FG 4) No concerns with this one. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks so much David. Also looking forward to using my new ispindle and relay with this, so hopefully I know with a greater degree of accuracy when I'm 5 - 0 points away from FG - both Christmas presents from my wife. I guess she has been tuning into your channel too!
Looks cool - I’ve not used much Vienna malt so intrigued to give this a go. Just wondering why it would be “crazy” to ferment under pressure with this yeast?
I see. I’ve seen a few people doing this sort of thing but bumping the temperatures up to say 25-27c which allows the esters to form and speeds up fermentation. I’ve also heard of people waiting I till day 5 or so to bump up pressure to help carbonate the beer faster without limiting the water production during primary fermentation. What’s your thoughts on this approach?
Sure, temp vs pressure can be played with. It will take some trial and error to get right but perhaps it is worth it for some people. Having said this, it is a 5 day ferment by standard, faster than many regular yeast strains.
Hi David, As your new student... (4 batches brewed, none tasted yet. Should be tasting batch no 1 next weekend). I brewed your Verdant IPA yesterday. Expectations are high. I often see you throw your hops into the wort during your brew. So i did the same for the first two batches and ended up with a thick layer of hops on the bottom screen (Brewzilla 3.1.1) and a thick layer of hops in the fermenter... For the third batch I used a hop sock for the 60 min addition and filtered the wort in a strainer while tranfsfering to the fermenter giving the wort a good aeration as well I suppose, and possibly a cleaner beer as I will see soon. For the fourth batch' we had the idea of positionning the hop socks just under the flow of the recirculation pump while boiling and durind the hopstand at 80 C. It looked like we extraxcted so much oil, even the faom was green. But it smelled very good. Was that a so good idea? I just don't know. I Tasted the wort afterward and it tasted an horrible bitterness that ''scratched the back of my tongue and lasted for hours... I never tasted wort before so have no reference. We'll see. Questions: What I did for that forth bacth; was that against some basic principles that I should have known?? Or should I just not taste my wort. And how do you manage the hops in the brewing system later on when you throw them in? Again, thanks for sharing with us and for your replies as well. Sheers!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew For the first two batches, straight from the Brewzilla with the pump. And I ended up with 1 cm thick layer of hops (and some grains) at the bottom of my fermenter (plastic bucket). For the last one, this Verdant IPA, I used hop sock during boil and filtered the wort flow through a mesh strainer when transfering in the fermenter. BTW this Verdant IPA is in my GF conical and I just withdraw the trub from it, and as far as I can tell there where no hops in there. Looks good! Thank you David. It's incredible the amount of information you share in you videos and just unbelievable to receive replies to our particular questions.
Hi Luc, Are you using the supplied false bottom filter? This should stop this. It does for me. I love to answer peoples questions, it is important and I encourage it. There is also the channels Facebook group too for more support and a brewing community.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes I use the supplied false bottom. It is appoximately as coarse as the one we put on top of the grains when mashing. It gets glogged with hops and reduces the pump flow. I have to scrape it sometimes to get some flow back. I think I an on my way to get rid of the hops in the fermenter, I shoul`d come back to you on that. My main concerne on this ''comment '' was more about using the hop socks under the pump flow and ''Hosing'' it... And the extra bitter taste of the wort after boiling. I suppose tasting the wort in not a current quality control methode :-). Again, Thanks. I do really appreciate your help.
I am going to brew this delicious beer but i am wondering if one sachete for 20 litres is ok? Pitching calculator suggests 2 packages? I would also like to put the pressure when dry hoping? Do you think it is good idea?
One might be enough but 2 is safer :) Yes, that's fine. Have no pressure for the first 4 days so that you get the esters and aroma from the yeast, then use pressure :)
Gonna try this! Quick question for you. My ebc is coming in at 11.6 vs your 9.5 because of the malts I need to substitute in. Mainly my Vienna malt is 11.8 vs your 5.5 ebc Is that a huge deal beyond my beer being darker in colour?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew follow up Q for you! You mentioned 3 days dry hop, when would you recommend it be done? On day 5? (Since this is basically an 8 day ferment) or when it reaches a certain gravity or when krausen is at its peak? Thanks!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you! Also when dry hopping, after adding the hops, should I purge my fermenter to rid some of the oxygen that may have entered?
David, Excellent video as always. I plan to brew something very similar soon. I know you dont add your water profile purposely, is there any way you can add it here in the comments?
Many thanks Mark :) I used Randy Moshers IPA profile. I usually mention profiles but forgot to add it here, so sorry sbout that. Here it is:- ca 110 mg 18 na 17 sulfate 350 chloride 50
David Heath Homebrew thank you! Wasn’t sure if you were using an neipa profile or an ipa profile. This sounds like a crowd pleaser and really excited to try this newer yeast strain. Sounds sort of like a London ale mixed with conan
Hey David. I'm going to give this recipe a try. I just scaled it in Brewfather to my gear. I have a question regarding the final gravity. There is an explanation point with it saying that the final gravity is set to a fixed amount to 1.007. It also says to have it estimated to hit the reset button. I tried the reset and it brought my final gravity up to 1.013 and my ABV was adjusted to reflect that at 5.3%. What should I do here? Leave it alone or reset and adjust the OG back up to get the an ABV of 6%. Thanks!
In my experience this yeast goes this low usually with this recipe. Do be warned though, this yeast can go slow in the finish and naturally this cannot be guaranteed.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh ok perfect thanks! With this being my first attempt at this recipe I'll leave it at the fixed FG then and see how it works out. Appreciate the quick response as always David. Cheers!
Hey David, you mentioned in this video that Verdant yeast isn’t recommended to be used pressure fermentation. I was planning to brew your NEIPA on the weekend and I was going to ferment under pressure with Verdant yeast. Would I be better off under normal fermentation with an air lock? I was under the impression that pressure fermentation was good for NEIPA and hoppy beer styles. Your recommendation would be most appreciated. Thanks, Gary.
There is a work around. Do not apply pressure until 3-4 days after fermentation start. This is when esters are formed. Then from the point you can add pressure.
Brilliant! Thank you so much for your advise David, and thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it. Keep the great videos coming, I’m watching 2 - 3 a day and find them very useful and educational. Thanks, Gary 👍😊
Would love to try this! When/how do you do the boil and "hop stand"? Boil 50 min, add hops + yeast nutrients and wait 10 min, @60 min lower temp add hops and hold at 80C for 20 min and then chill. Is this correct or is the boil only 10 min?(!) Also with batch sparging, what ratio would you recommend as strike water volume vs sparge water volume? Thanks, love the channel!
60 min boil then Chilled to 80C then loaded up the hops and recirculated for 20 mins. Volumes wise I suggestion using brewing software to work that out :) Glad you are enjoying the channel :)
Hi David, I got a 11g pack of this yeast. I just want to make sure before I'll go for heavy underpitch. Did you prepare the starter for 11g pack for batch of this size? The pitch rate on the pack makes me nervous.
Yes, it is a very wide pitch rate. I always follow this pitch rate calc on Lallemands website, never with an issue:- www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/canada/brewers-corner/brewing-tools/pitching-rate-calculator/
Hi David, just wondering what's the best hop to substitute centennial for the dry hop. I'm out. Only have 25g of centennial....I have Simcoe or Chinook, tomahawk, columbus? Or just leave the dry hop at 90g (25g short for my batch size?)
I have been homebrewing for two years and this is my favourite recipe so far. I try to experiment with other beer types and other recipes but this verdant ipa has to be every other batch. 😅 Beautiful colour, nice aroma, balanced bitterness, optimal strength, perfect beer... 😁 Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏻 Greetings from Hungary 🍻
Great to hear. Pomona is also a very good IPA yeast that is well worth trying. I am a couple of videos about it and a recipe already shared with another being shared on Wednesday 🍻🍻🍻
David- looks like your video has been out for two years, but making this recipe/beer tonight!! I’ll keep you posted!! Your APA was great!!
Its for sure been a popular recipe! Enjoy 🍻🍻
As usual a huge amount of information presented in a very professional and clear way. Perfect! Many thanks for all that you do, this one is added to my list!
Many thanks Alan, much appreciated :) I am sure you will enjoy this one.
Just had my first glass of this and wow! Beautiful stone fruit aromas and super balanced. Absolutely delicious. My first beer that’s tasted like it was made commercially. Thanks David 🙏
Cheers Stewart, I am glad you are enjoying this one 🍻🍻🍻
Brewed this 3 times now altering the recipe just a tad for 2 of the brews. The original recipe is excellent! Cheers to sharing amazing and very yummy beer recipes. Thank you!!!
Thank you, much appreciated :)
Hi David, from the recipe I couldn't see the amount of hops required during the boil, but then found them on the Brewfather link, as:
25 g (13 IBU) - Centennial 8.5% - Boil - 10 min
25 g (18 IBU) - Mosaic 12% - Boil - 10 min
25 g (4 IBU) - Centennial 8.5% - Aroma - 20 min hopstand @ 80 °C
25 g (6 IBU) - Mosaic 12% - Aroma - 20 min hopstand @ 80 °C
Thanks for another great video / recipe. Brad
Thank you. Yes I do this on purpose because you will need to check the alpha acid % of the hops you use and make an adjustment.
Yeast is ridiculous! Going absolutely crazy and brew smells superb. Neipa is going straight onto this yeast once this one is finished. Many thanks for the recipe
Thanks Chris, Enjoy :)
Hi David
I have brewed this beer several times now and it is my favourite brew of this style. I have always used Standard porridge oats in my brews but have recently obtained some CRISP flaked oats that include husks. Is this what you have used in your recipe ?
Cheers
Mitch
Great to hear Mitch. Yes I use brewing specific flaked oats. A little more expensive but well worth it.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew
Hi David does the recipe takes into account the weight of the husks as well or do I need to up the quantity to compensate ?
Mitch
Yes, no need to change the amount.
I've just tasted my first brewed batch of this beer. It tastes great, and it's only been botteled two weeks ago! Thank you for sharing this great recipe! Cheers Maarten
Cheers Maaten, great to hear. I have a super hoppy recipe release tomorrow.
Another great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge David.👍💪
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it :)
This was a spectacular recipe David!
Great to hear :) Yes its certainly been popular 🍻
Hey David, thank you for this nice recipe! Inspired by your video, I made a similar one.
I´ve had Centennial and Galaxy hops at home so I used those at the same ratio, and what came out was great! I live in germany,
and there is an Ice lolly called "langnese split", it has a vanilla ice core sealed by maracuja/orange ice. And this beers aroma really took me back into my childhood buying a split at the lake in summer. Love it!
Awesome, great to hear 🍻🍻🍻. Its always nice to tap onto those good childhood flavour memories.
Brewed this a few weeks ago with brew in a bag. In the keg now for just over a week. Taste is just how you describe. Very smooth and fruity, Its definitely more sweet than other IPAs ive done. Not overly hoppy. Hard to believe its a 6% beer. So easy to drink. Could get into trouble with this one. Think it will only improve with time. Not that it will last that long. Thx for the recipe mate.
Cheers Stefan, it sounds like you nailed it well 🍻🍻🍻
This is also one of my favorite recipes. Thanks for putting it into the world! 👍 I double the dry hops, though, and for me, that's the perfect amount!
Cheers Josh. Yes, some will enjoy more for sure!
Verdant is such a beast. i am on day 3.5 and the kräusen falls fast and the yeast is settling since this morning...what a beast!
Oh yes, it sure is :)
Hi David, Thanks for the vid. Is there a reason for 60 min. Boil or was this before the start of the 30 min boil that you advise now. Regards Andy
Hi Andrew, certainly a 30 min boil would be my suggestion these days.
Cracked open my first bottle yesterday even though I don't think it should be ready until the 15th. Very cloudy but delicious. Thanks David.
Great to hear Rupert, it will get better soon also, enjoy :)
thanks for this video, its months since i first used it after your recommendation and its always in my fridge shelf now and the aroma and flavours from this are fantastic
Thanks Andy, that is great to hear. I have something else coming that uses this yeast that has rocked my summer. It should be ready in video form in a 3-4 weeks.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew looking forward to it David.
Me too, ive been brewing various 5L batches to develop the recipe and the first full batch is about ready for transfer.
David, I just made this beer, and I have to say it is fantastic. Thanks so much for the recipe, this is probably the best beer I've brewed to date. I ended up keg hopping with 2oz Centennial and 2oz Mosaic because I do not have a hop rocket and desired more aroma, and I would 100% do this again. I look forward to trying more of your recipes, I think the Big Man American Stout may be next. Cheers.
Great to hear 🍻
Big man has been a long term project that I am very proud of too 😎
When you say that you ended up keg hopping......do you mean that you didn't put those last 4 oz of hops into the fermenter for 3 days and instead put them directly into the keg? Did you leave those hops in the keg for the duration of serving the entire keg (like in David's NEIPA Second Generation) or did you pull at some point? Did you use a bag or SS mesh hop cylinder. When fermentation is complete, I'm considering just putting those last 4 oz in mesh cylinder and dropping into keg for duration. Any other advise?
Hi Michael. There are choices here. You can just dry hop, just keg hop or both. It will all work but the most hoppy result will be both of course 🍻
When you keg hop the hops slowly releae due to temperature. All good for a few months.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David, I have a "dry hop keg mesh filter". I think I'll hang it in the fermenter for the 3 days the recipe calls for then pull it and drop it into the keg unless I'm missing something.
Re brewing it today. Will change the water from hoppy to neipa and leave the floc away. Really looking forward seeing the difference! It will be ready just in time for summer vacation!
Enjoy :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh and I bought a rocket ship too. Lol
Haha, you are going to love the difference that makes!!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew looking forward. At which point do you dry hop it? After 22 degrees??
I dry hop when I am close to final gravity. 5-10 points away depending on the yeast.
Thanks just brewed your recipe, its fantastic cheers from Aus.
Great to hear Tom, Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Great video. Will give this a try as my next brew and first attempt with Verdant. The video shows two empty packets but the recipe calls for one. Is it worth throwing two in "to be sure"?
Thank you. It really depends on the batch volume brewed.
Going to brew this one soon. Added into my batch list. Also enjoyed your breakfast stout recipe and found it delightful. I’m Beginning to trust your taste buds as they seem to coincide with mine in many areas.
Great to hear Mark. I am very used to writing recipes to a common level of taste.
Love this recipe i brewed it a couple of times, its a go to!
Question:what style would this be in bjcp 2015?
Great to hear. This is an IPA hybrid.
Hi David, I'm planning on brewing a 19L batch in my brewmonk b40. I havr the same yeast (1 package) would you recommend making a starter first or is adding the dry yeast to my fermenter just fine?
Great, no need for a starter, direct pitch is enough 🍻🍻🍻
David, thanks again for great content. Did you cold crash this one?
Yes, just for a day or two after fermentation before kegging 🍻🍻🍻
This will be my next brew for sure! Looking absolutely delicious. I imported the recipe into Brewfather, but wondering how it ends up when you dry hop for three days starting at the end of fermentation: Does that mean that you transfer the beer to keg after after about 4+3 days in the fermenter? Or do you dump the hops after 3 days of dry hopping?
Thank you!
Great to hear. For dry hopping simply add when you are 5-10 SG points away from your FG 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes, and then you keg/transfer 3 days after that?
You must ensure that you have a stable FG before you transfer. I suggest for 3 days.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Takk!
@MikaelWallSweden 🍻🍻🍻
Got two packs in stock David and looking forward to using it.
Great video as usual David👍👍👍
Great :) Glad you enjoyed this one :)
Nice recipe!! I'll have to try that yeast! I just did a hazy with centennial, calypso, and Mosaic. Great hop combo! Cheers!! 👍🍻
Many thanks Brian, I would highly recommend it! Cheers :)
Great video David, I wanted to ask you something if it's possible, I know how to make an APA with this yeast, is it normal that it's still rising for 23 days? What should I do, can I bottle it or should I wait any longer? Thanks if you can answer me.
Hey, sure, no problem.
Yes it works just as well for APA.
It should be done in 10-14 days maximum. Have you checked with a hydrometer?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi, thanks for answering me, the OG was 1040 on 06/02, now I've tried the FG on 01/03 at 11.00 am it's 1006. I also tasted it and it has an amazing aroma, in fact I used Solero as the hop as aroma and dry hop.
Great, I suspect that is ready. A consistent gravity for 3 days will confirm 🍻🍻😎
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi, yesterday I bottled, I hope the bottles won't explode, however I put 6 g/l of sugar for 15 days of rest. If a good beer comes out, I would be happy if you would take a look at it for any advice on how to improve it. One last question if possible, I use Dingemans Pale Ale base malt for my beers, my beer style is APA and IPA, I'd like to use Simpsons Maris Otter malt because I've heard good things about it, what do you say? ?Thank you.
PS: Don't look at my writing because I'm Italian and I'm writing with the translator.
Fingers crossed and enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, when do you prefer to dry hop? During ferment, after ferment, in the keg? Thanks, Adam
Personally I have the best results by adding hops when the fermentation is 5-10 points away from the estimated FG.
Thanks for a nice video. I will try to brew this recipe as soon as possible .I`m not sure if I understand the hop additions wright. Does it mean that i shall add the @10 min. hop addition after 20 min. if choose a 30 min. boil.
No, keep them exactly the same :)
Hi and thanks for the recipe and video. I just brewed this and it is currently fermenting in the Fermzilla. Today is day 5 at 19C. I will rise temperature to 22 over the next three days and then cool and carbonate (add pressure to the Fermzilla) and then transfer to keg and bottles. Should I also add the dry hop today? If so, should I remove them after three days when I start cooling and carbonating or should I just let the hop stay? Or should I wait with dry hopping until I start cooling? I look forward to your feedback. Cheers.
Hi, I suggest adding the dry hops when you are 5-10 gravity points away from FG. They can remain for up to five days, which is enough time usually to see it finish and be ready for transfer .
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Is it equally important to terminate hop contact when the beer in the fermenter is cold or can I let it stay a couple of days more then?
Once cold its not really a concern. So, for example dry hopping in a keg is fine for months but its slow release.
Hi David, I am planning to make this one as my first IPA brew. So far I've done only brews where sugar needed to be added before bottling for carbonation. No need for this here?
Great, I hope you enjoy the process and the results. You always need to add sugar to bottles for carbonation. I would suggest you look at kegging though. This is far easier and less time consuming. I have various guides on the subject 🍻🍻😎
Great videos David. I'd never thought to use a hop sock in the Rocket/Missile. That's brilliant. For years I've seen hop leaves dissappearing into my plate chiller even through I have a Y filter from the Rocket exit. I tried the sock last time and it worked very well. Keep the jokes and word bubbles coming in the videos - they crack me up. Maybe a video on how the different malts contibute different flavour, as your design explanation discusses briefly in this video. Cheers!
Thanks Ewan. Yes, it works nicely. I have been tempted to make videos that explain just grain types. I just figured it might be quite boring.
Hi! Great and substantive material. I want to brew beer according to your recipe but I don't have a hopstand. How do I modify the recipe so that I can brew the beer in something like grainfather? I want the taste to be as similar to your beer as possible. I am asking for a hint. Thank you.
You could change the recipe so the hop stand is at a high temperature. Though buying or making an immersion chiller is not very expensive. Well worth having for hop stands.
Hi David, wish you a very happy 2021 at the outset.
I usually follow the no chill method, mainly because I end up saving a lot of water.
Given the v late hopping schedule for this recipe, should I follow it as is or push back the hopping times a tad to avoid the excess bitterness? I'm inclined to keep it as is but thot I'd ask your views on it (and on the no chill method, in general.)
Regards . Ravil
Thanks Ravil. Happy New Year:) I would go as is personally. The bitterness you will gain will drop off pretty fast.
Hi David. First off, cheers for all of your work in putting out such great videos!
I currently don't have the ability to keg so I bottle all my beers (transfer to bottling bucket and batch prime). Is this beer suitable for that? Or am i gonna have oxidation issues?
Cheers
Cheers, great to hear. Bottles are suitable for all beers. Be sure to fill from the bottle upwards and keep that flow slow to avoid splashing. 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the quick response!
Was just a bit worried as I've read that really hoppy beers sometimes don't bottle well. But now Ill definitely be brewing this one next!
Cheers
No problem. I suggest that you watch this:-
ruclips.net/video/cfZ-wHRtDKE/видео.html
David do you recommend cold crashing this beer? In the fermenter now and really looking forward to this one. Thanks for all that you do.
Thanks Shane. Up to you really. It can look hazy or clear.
Another great video. If you ever visit the US and come to Maine. I'll take you on a brew bus tour.
Great, thank you. I would have been in the US this year already until all events got cancelled. Lets hope 2021 is easier!
Hi David, great video as always ! I'm a big fan
I brewed it a few weeks ago without taking care of my water profile but it was still amazing. What could you suggest about water profile ? Could I use the Hoppy profile from brewfather ? something else? What about PH?
Thank you so much for sharing all tthis knowledge
Thank you. Yes one of the hoppy profiles from Brewfather will work :)
Hi David,
I was super excited to try out this recipe and hop missile and I could eventually get all the things for it and brewed it yesterday. Looking forward to the result, although my OG seems a bit too low but... We shall see.
Quick question, my beer was less clean that the one showing in your video. It seems to me that the fermentation is very short (8 days-10days?). That's very short no? Would you still recommend yeast dump every 3-4 days on this? (Referring to your video on the grainfatger fermenter routine for yeast dump).
Thanks a lot, and thanks for all of these so useful videos
Great to hear. Yes it can be short with this yeast. Yes, doing these short dumps is advisable with the GF conical.
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks a lot. Always impressed by your responsiveness. I'll try that out then. Very excited to taste the result
Great, I do my best 🍻🍻 Hope you enjoy it 🍻🍻
This looks amazing David. I'm going to brew this at the weekend. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Nick, I am going to brew a double batch of it for Christmas:)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Just thought I'd report back on this. I just had my first sample from the keg today. Simply mind blowing....and really quaffable. I did exactly what you warned us not to do...drank loads really quickly...then it hit me like a train. : P
Haha, great to hear Nick. It gets better with a little more time also :)
Hello. Thank you so much for your really interesting and educational videos.
I'll try the recipe soon and was wondering if cold crashing this beer would be good to make it cleaner? If so, how long to reach the cold crash temp and would you bottle straight after cold crash is done and beer back to room temperature? Thanks again
Hi, great to hear, thank you. Sure you can cold crash this one if you are looking for clarity. 1-3 days is usually enough. You can transfer the beer cold, it will take longer for the yeast to become reactive to the added sugar is all.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks a lot for this really nice and quick answer. Would it mean I'd need to schedule my dry hop later or does the cold stops the oils from the hop to infuse ? Does a progressive (several day) temperature decrease would avoid the starsan and oxygen to be suck in? It's a lot of questions sorry about that but there is so much to learn and understand
No problem. Keep temperature for the dry hop for 3 days. If you have a consistent FG then you are ready for cold crashing.
This beer has changed in the keg over the last 4 weeks. It's transformed in to what I consider to be a hoppy, fruity pale ale. It has also gone bright. Unexpected but I still consider it very good, perhaps even more to my taste. Thankfully, there are no off-flavours at all and the colour is similar, more gold perhaps. Hops still dominate but they are more subtle. So I don't think it's oxidised, more of an aging effect perhaps? My only deviation from the recipe was to add gelatin to fin the beer. Perhaps this has not only clarified the beer but removed some hop oil as well? In any case, a clear brewing "win". Good after a week, great after two, different but great in a different way after 4 weeks. Thanks David.
Great to hear Adam. Yes this is pretty normal and why IPA styles are often considered best when drunk fresh. You can negate this some with the keg dry hop.
Awesome recipe David Heath! i have used he verdant yeast on a few hazy's after watching your video's... for the hop rocket device..is it better than just using a spider?
Thank you Alastair. Yes, a hop back is a very worthwhile addition for sure. Hop spiders are not something I advocate or use for hops personally.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew that is interesting as i have had a few brews where i think that the use of the spider has limited utilisation and the hop spider does not it seems..
A general rule of thumb is the add 10% extra hops when using a hop spider. This is to compensate utilisation issues. I find them useful for candi sugar personally.
My wife and I just tasted this beer and we are extremely happy with the way it turned out. Dangerously drinkable!
David what crush do you use for a Brewzilla gen 3? I am running into efficiency issues and I get my grain milled from online beer retailers. Thinking about investing in a mill. Any suggestions for efficiency boosts?
Thanks for all that you do! Cheers!
Cheers Paul, great to hear.
Grain crush is not universal and is more about the grain sizes you have locally. I suggest one of these personally. Fast and easy to use:- ruclips.net/video/6pDC7Ysy_Uc/видео.html
David, I'm interested in your comment about the aeration of some yeasts - is that all dry yeasts that don't need (want?) aeration, or are there still instances with higher ABV beers, like Imperial Stouts, where they benefit from aeration?
This information came from a study made by fermentis.This study found that the yeast starting would be faster but so is the chance of the yeast stopping early.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok, thanks David. I feel like there could be value in 'myths and misconceptions' series that covers some of this intermediate 'knowledge' that we've all gained from various sources and old books :)
I already have such a series, I call it “Brewing Bad”. There are more than 10 parts, here is part 1, ruclips.net/video/cgb9UnO_34s/видео.html
Thanks again David, another added to the to brew list. Did you simply recirculate the wort through the hop missile for 20 minutes once it was at 80c before chilling it right down to pitching temp and into the fermenter?
Thanks James. Yes, exactly that :)
David would one package of this yeast be sufficient for a 20L batch without the yeast nutrients? I have a brew on right now and during the first few days my wort had a milky covering of yeast but little to no activity in the bubbler. I did agitate the fermenter and it did seem to liven up a bit for a day but am concerned that it never had a chance to finish. I will be taking a sample today to check FG.
Hi Richard, it usually will be but yeast nuts certainly help seal the deal.
I messed up by adding the first hop addition at 10 minutes into the boil and it has come out a little bitter. Still a very nice beer and will definitely try again.
One question... if I was to scale this to a 25lt batch would I still only need one packet of yeast?
Ops. You could try blending it :)
You are probably going to want 1.5 sachets then to be on the safe side but 1 could work.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It has just been in the bottle for a week and was trying a sample so I know it will definitely mellow out a bit. Surprisingly well carbed for 7 days and I reckon in another 2 weeks will be a great... but could be better (my fault 😝).
Cheers. Most 25lt kits I get only include 1 sachet.
Sounds about right :)
Hi David,
I made this recently and it was fantastic. I had a slight astringency taste in it but it's something I can't fix on my beers atm. Going for batch 2 now and I notice on the brewfather app you don't select a target water profile and just use general. These ratios should give a less bitter beer?? Thanks
Hi liam, I suggest using a hoppy water profile. Are you adjusting your water and are sure that your source profile is accurate? Water company data is not something I put trust in.
Hi David, thanks for the reply. I use RO water and use brewfather for water treatment amounts. It only started after I started treating my water and the extreme bitterness is there in the wort before fermentation usually. It has got better. I'm trying different things but still a bit stumped
I suggest trying other water profiles and see what you think. Its all a question of personal taste. Try hoppy lite for example.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks 👍
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. I have just brewed this one and cant wait to taste it. I usually brew with kveik, and harvest the yeast for drying. Could I do the same with this yeast. And if so, how much would you pitch? Usually I pitch 1-2 grams of kveik, for a 19 l. batch.
Hi Paw, Sure I would suggest top cropping. Best to keep the pitch rate the same as when its in the sachet.
Hi David,
Quick one, when you were going through the malts, in the mashing stage, what is the item on top of the over flow tube? I’ve never seen one of them. And I noticed how quick you had the recirculating going - how did you have it filtering through the grain so quicky, looked like it was quiet balanced even though it was going so quick?
Hi Tyson, a sink strainer. I dont use them now but I did when I milled grain at different places as a way of predicting potential over crush.
Hi David. Great looking beer. The water profile you have for this beer on Brewfather has around a 1.8:1 sulfate to cloride ratio. Shouldn’t it be the opposite way round for a juicy style ipa like this? Just trying to plan my water additions to brew this recipe. Any advice appreciated
Thank you. This is a great water profile provided by Randy Mosher, try it and you will see what I mean :)
Hi David
I brewed this recipe and just had my first pint. A fantastic recipe and I will definitely be brewing it again
Thanks for all your help and suggestions in your videos keep it up
Cheers Shane, many thanks for the feedback :)
Yes this works very nicely. You should try this too:- ruclips.net/video/4P6Icz4zOFs/видео.html
Looks like a nice beer i would try! What water target did you use?
Personally I prefer Randy Moshers hoppy water profile which can easily be found via an internet search. Its extreme but very good.
Hi David, great tutorial. We are thinking of brewing with the Verdant IPA yeast and as I'm sold on your recipe was wondering if we could mention that we found it on your channel. No worries if not and we still intend to brew this beer as we are only now exploring IPA's
Hey guys, yes no problem there at all. This has certainly been a very popular recipe. I have also designed a stout around this yeast too.
Hello David, truly enjoy your videos.. thank you. I am about to brew this beer and going to ferment in my brand new kegmenter using the "under pressure". What do you reccomend as far as psi settings for the spundit valve, and what is the best way to add dry hops into a pressurized kegmenter?
Thanks Luca. I suggest skipping pressure for the first 4 days to allow the yeast to contribute its flavour and aroma. Then 10-12 PSI is ideal. To add dry hops you will need to remove all pressure first via the PRV. Open, add, then close back up. Pressure will build again naturally if you add the dry hops when 5-10 SG away from predicted FG.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you David for your reply! Would a hop tea replace the need for dry hopping ?
Cheers Luca. I would do both :) Hop tea is between dry hopping and zero minute additions in it's effect.
Was wondering if serving directly from kegmenter would be ok with this or any beer. Have you ever tried in yours?
Thanks for the recipe David and for bringing this yeast to my attention - I have ordered some to try and will give your recipe a spin for Christmas. What's you approach to the dry hopping? At what point are you adding the dry hops and are you racking off them after three days?
Ah just looked at Brewfather for the first time and I see you're adding at day 5.
Hi Gary, Great that you found this interesting :) I always add my dry hops just before fermentation end. If I can time it within the last 5 gravity points then this is on target. You can use your hop rocket in the same way as I use the missile with pellets. I show more on this during this video:- ruclips.net/video/Xu1VLhLKWX4/видео.html
David, do you think this would benefit from cold crashing?
Up to you entirely. I do not cold crash very often personally.
Hello, video is extremely helpful and full of information. The only question that comes to mind is why would a pressure fermentation would not work with this yeast?
Thank you!!
Thanks :) The best thing about this yeast is its ester flavours. If you pressure ferment then you will lose those 🙂
@@DavidHeathHomebrew would it work to pressure ferment to encourage a faster fermentation, but do it at a higher starting temp (maybe 23)?
You would still have no esters sadly.
Hi David. Thank you for another great video, keep em coming :-) If I was to go the Kveik way, wich Kveik would you recommend and is it even possible with this recipe?
I would recommend Voss kveik. It certainly would work with this recipe, though you would miss out on the fruity esters from Verdant.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I guess that I would have to try both in a split batch then 🙂.
That would be a great way to go yes :)
Great video David - wild colour!
Many thanks Ken, yes I was keen to make this one look great as well as taste great :)
Excellent stuff as always David!
If I can't get hold of Chateau Vienna, what would you suggest subbing that with?
Cheers
Thanks Jason. Any Vienna malt will work, I just used the Castle Maltings version :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David, a comparison chart I saw oddly put their Vienna next to maris otter as a sub which I thought was odd.
Go your Xmas stout sitting in the keg ready for the week before Christmas 👍
Yes, this is a problem with some malt houses!
Hope you enjoy that Christmas stout, I love it personally :)
Thanks for another great video, I'll try this one next. Apologies if this has been asked before but how long would you leave this in secondary. I tend to bottle and then give 10 days warm, 3 weeks cold. Is that OK?
Hi Rupert. I only use secondary with fruit these days personally. Bottles wise I recommend 14 days warm, to be on the safe side.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David. 14 days warm then ready to drink? Or then time to spend a few weeks chilling? I was just reading advice about giving beers a week per OG hundredth i.e. OG 1.050 needs 5 weeks. Sounded like a good rough guide??
14 days for carbonation. If it's ale then store as close to 14 deg c as you can for optimum conditioning. If it's lager (and your used lager yeast) then best to store cold for conditioning. I hope this helps.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you 🍺
Anytime :)
Hi David, thx for the recipie and tips. Hey I got a massive krausen on this brew and it left a white slime inside the fermentor and the beer (pre cold-crash) is like a milkshake. Is this how it is supposed to be ? I thought it'd be hazy rather than Milkshake. Cheers, Dave from NZ
Hmm, ive not seen this. Did you pressure ferment? Then I would understand.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David. Normal pressure. Took a gravity sample just now and is clearing up now (cold crashing for 18 hours so far). Looking much more like yours now. Can't wait to try it. Thanks for all your great vids and tips, you're very generous with your knowledge. Rgds. Dave
Ok, that is good to hear then. Hey, no problem, it is great to be able to help.
Hi David. Thanks for the great recipe and tutorial. Can I ask why you recommend 5 days at 19deg before ramping up for this recipe, rather than your 'usual' 7 days for ales? Is Verdant quicker than a say US-05 yeast?
Hi :) Yes, it is the speed of Verdant :)
Hi David,
How many packages of yeast did you use? The Brewfather recipe states 1 package which seems very little for that kind of beer. I had brewed this recipe with 1 package before and the yeast gave up at 1.015. I just watched the video again and spotted two opened packages.
You should be ok with one but two is more assured.
Do you have any recommendations for using extract malt with this yeast.
I haven't yet progressed to all grain brewing. Any thoughts would help cheers
Nothing special is needed really with this yeast and extract brews. Convert my recipe into extract as per normal.
Hallo David. What style of IPA would you say this is? It seems to combine both the West Coast and East Coast IPA styles.
This recipe was designed to best highlight Verdant yeast. I would say its a hybrid IPA.
Hi David, great recipe, thanks! I feel like this is a stupid question, but what crystal malt are you using that's only 20ebc? I have some Simpsons light crystal on hand which I was going to use instead, but that's nearer 100ebc. Thanks!
Thank you. Thats cara blonde by castle maltings. Plenty of alternatives out there. Best to not use whats to hand when its that far away though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew No worries, I ended up using Munich instead so we'll see how that goes!
Great 🍻🍻
Brewed this 5 days ago now. In your recipe you are using flaked Oats. Are these simple cereal oatmeal (havregryn) or is it oats that have received some special treatment? I ended up ordering torrefied flaked oats and I'm not sure its the same that you are using. Thanks for a great channel. Im looking forward to tasting this beer in some weeks.
Cheers Lasse. Havregryn are going to work. As long as they are natural.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you for the answer. May i ask what you specifically are using? There seems to be a lot of misunderstanding and opinions to what is "correct" when flaked oats are mentioned in a recipe.
It really depends. If I take a recipe from my stock of grain at home then if usually its from a havregryn package from Rema Tusen. If I am at a store and have them put the recipe together than I will buy it there. This is just for unmalted oats of course. Malted oats have gone through a different process. Wheat does confuse people, I have a guide to the different types here:- ruclips.net/video/UIONhpiN0og/видео.html
That looks really good! David, why would it be crazy to use that yeast in pressure fermenting? Thanks!
Thanks :) The best thing about this yeast is its ester flavours. If you pressure ferment then you will lose those 🙂
Hi David and thanks for all the work you put in, much appreciated for a beginner brewer like me. One thing l can’t understant though is why the fixed final gravity at 1.007? Why don’t go by the verdant’s attenuation at 75%?
As a happy beginner l guess l must be missing something?
Thanks a lot David,
Cheers
Verdant has a variable attenuation range dependant on ingredients. After brewing this recipe a number of times I am able to give my best estimate.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your response David. So you say that l should go for that fixed gravity (or a few points up)? Never had a yeast attenuate that low so far so that’s why l’m asking. I’m sure it will turn out great and thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Thanks Tomas. Its hard to be precise on this, you can only estimate. Mine finished a couple if points higher on this particular brew but previously went down to 1,007 a couple of time before. We can only estimate :)
Hi David, great video and excellent channel! Just a couple of questions. First, I have read that Verdant seems to let some complex sugars... How did you manage it to get 1009 as final density??? And the other one, maybe I missed it from the video: did you use only one package of dry yeast? Did you make an starter?
Verdant is very much a variable yeast. No starter was used. Just one sachet.
Hello David, great video, I will try to make this one during next weekend. However I have two doubts, I was reading the comments and I got the idea that you don’t recommend a starter. In my case I will do a batch of 24 liters and 16 grams of yeast are recommended, however I just have one sachet (11 grams). Should I buy another one instead of do do a starter?
The other question is related with cold crash with dry hops (DH). I was reading the comments and answers on this video and in the other video you have just focus on dry hopping, and in some of your comments you ask the people to keep the DH hops during the cold crash, but in another comment you suggest to remove them before cold crash. My plan is: between 5 to 10 points before the final gravity perform the DH, wait three days, and finally perform a 24 hours cold crash using gelatin. Do you agree with this approach, or should I remove the DH hops before cold crash?
Thanks for your help, and continue this great job.
Thanks Andre. By all means if you want to make a starter then do. It is just that usually it will be cheaper and easier to use more yeast and the formulation will be unchanged. You can cold crash with dry hops present. You will however get a clearer result usually with them removed.
great video ! Do you observe a decrease in your brewing efficiency with flaks (oats or wheat) ? I tried your NEIPA receipe, all was good except my usual efficiency in beersmith i couldn't obtain (-10% around).
Thank you. Actually no :) I am very careful to give it an extra stirring in at the start of the mash and I watch to make sure that the recirculation is right. If not then I will add a small amount of rice hulls and stir those in and then watch again until it is right. Once right the mash timer starts. Try this, I am sure it will help :)
Thanks for the video. Just back to brewing after a 20 plus year break. Your channel has been a godsend. Quick beginner question though... why wouldnt you use a pressure fermenter with this yeast?
Welcome back to this great hobby :) I am very glad that you have found my content useful. The Verdant yeast has really nice esters that this recipe has been designed to compliment. If you use pressure fermentation then this will stop these esters from forming. Which would be a great pity really :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok good to know. Cheers
@@DavidHeathHomebrew could you ferment in a pressure rated FV with the spunding valve fully open for the first few days in order to get the esters, and then set the spunding valve to 12PSI for the remainder of fermentation?
Yes, this would probably work, though I would personally wait until day 5 before adding pressure.
Hi, David! Big thanks for all your great and informative videos.
This video gave me the idea of using a regular hop spider combined with the Grainfather counterflow-chiller as a cheap substitute for your hop missile. Just sanitize the chiller as always, maybe add some rice hulls with the 10 min addition, circulate until 80C, then add the hop stand additions and circulate through the hop spider throughout the hop stand.
What are your thoughts?
Sorry I must have missed this. I have tried exactly what you are suggesting here. Sadly the results do not compare, if they did then you can be sure that I would have covered it in at least one video.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply!
I noticed in the Brewfather recipe that you acidified the spargewater for this brew. Is this something you do in general? Do you ever add salt additions to your spargewater? (I live just south of Oslo, so your acid- and salt practices should apply to my water as well).
I do a little of everything. The water does vary though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I brewed this recipe last weekend and I'm getting really excited to test the result!
One thing tho. I misread the recipe and added the dryhops on day 3. In my case, would you recommend transferring to a keg/closed secondary before cold crash or should I cold crash before kegging?
Hi Snorre that could well lead to some grassy flavours. Not much you can do about that than wait but often they will fade. If you can cold crash before transfer. I cold crash in my kegs but I use this system for serving, which changes things:-
ruclips.net/video/qheb2Hy8Obg/видео.html
Hi David, I have the ability to ferment under pressure (kegmenter). I got a great result using pressure with your NEIPA 2nd Gen recipe for DMS burnoff. This recipe doesn't use pressure - would you recommend to stay like this or could I get an enhanced result using pressure, particularly for the second part of fermentation with the temperature rise? Thanks
Sure. Just add pressure after day 4 and you will keep the yeast flavour and aroma 🍻🍻🍻
Hi! we´ve just ended my 25L batch of this one. Not a single person didnt like it!!! Even the ones that doesnt like IPA drank this, a LOT! Thank you so much! oooo btw, I still have my fermenter with the yeast at 4 celcius on about a month... lol, should I reuse? or its better just to throw away?! thx again you are a big inspiration for me! Cheers from your biggest fan on Brasil!
Great to hear, I had the same experience and ive heard the same from others. Its very nice to strike gold with a recipe. Try my latest NEIPA, the next gen. Its different but just as good I believe. After this amount of time it could be ok. I would add it to a starter to bring it into health and then wash it.
Hi David - got this recipe into my fermenter yesterday. I am now thinking about the dry hop and when is best to throw them in. Should the 3 day dry hop coincide with the 3 day temperature ramp up or should I do the dry hop after I get to 22c? I have a feeling most of the fermentation will be over by day 5 just when the ramp up starts so am thinking this is when to throw the hops in
Thanks Neil. I usually dry hop on day3- 4 with this recipe. I wait until the final 5-10 gravity points.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok that does make sense. Do you fish the hops out after the three days or just leave them in until packaging?
I would expect transfer within 3-4 days, so no problem in leaving them.
Would carahell be the right substitute for the Chateau Cara Blond or should I just up the carapils.
Keep up the good work👍
Thanks Adam. The best sub is the one closest in EBC :)
Sorry to bug you again but it's hard to get a straight answer from other sources.
I cannot get a cara malt in the 20 ebc range so can I just add half the amount of say cara 40 and bump up the base malts?
@@adamskilton6629 No problem at all Adam, I am happy to help :) Yes, you can certainly do that. Just make sure the EBC is matched in the main recipe too. You will find that you will not get quite the same effect. The lower the EBC of a crystal malt the more background sweet flavours you can obtain but in a recipe like this one with hops and yeast flavour focus this will be very very small.
Sounds good, im not a huge fan of sweet in my beers anyway but do realise it has its place.
Thank you for helping out.
Love your well thought out and straight to it video style.
The actual sweetness will be controlled by mash temperature and the attenuation rate % of your yeast.
Thanks for the video and recipe. In regards to the hop additions in the recipe ....... you give amounts for the dry hop but just IBU for the brewing additions ..... is there a reason for that? how do I translate that to actual amounts
cheers
Jim
Hi Jim. Yes the reason for this is that some homebrewers were simply using the same amounts of hop. You can be sure that the alpha acids of my hops are different to yours. By supplying the IBU you can use brewing software to calculate how much to use of the hops you obtain. This way you will be brewing the recipe intended and getting the desired results.
David, I've just done this as my first brew. Hit the numbers pretty well bang on. Smells and looks great.
In terms of dry hopping I've got a rookie question - do you add the dry hops in at 3 days? Or with 3 days left in the fermentation?
Thanks mate
I've also got a spundy set at 10psi on the fermenter, is that the sweet spot? Cheers mate 👍
Hey James, Add dry hops ideally 3-5 days before transfer to bottles or keg.
With this yeast I do not recommend pressure as this could remove the fruity esters that make it so special. In general 10-12 PSI is the sweet spot though 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks mate. So do you suggest no spundy at all then? Cheers
For this yeast and those with flavour that you want in the beer then yes. You will lose the fruity flavours.
Hi again, David! As for the hop-stand hops, do you mean the same hops added a 10 min.? And leaving them in during the cool-down for 10 min? Thanks. G
This is a separate addition as shown in this videos description, there is also a link to the recipe on Brewfather too :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok. Sorry, but I could not find the quantity.... thanks. G
I just give IBU there. This way you will use your own hops AA% and will create the right recipe :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew alright. I am still a baby....😄
I can help :) Watch this video first and then let me know if you have further questions:- ruclips.net/video/lYA_UzDkW9o/видео.html
Thanks alot for the awsome recepies David. I just wanted to ask if you can elaborate on the difference from your exellent DIPA. The reasoning with that recepie was to use pilsner malt to have the maltiness stand back and bring forward the hops. This verdant ipa is also a hoppy beer but now it is a very complex malt composition. I am a bit confused here.
The fundamental difference is the level of alcohol between these two styles and recipes. There are also different ways to present different styles according to hop choices, levels of bitterness, BU:GU ratios and so on. Much of these choices are a question of taste also and there are various angles to experiment with. What you could do is brew this one at both 6% and 10% with the same BU:GU ratio and see what you think compared to the DIPA :)
I see, very interesting, thanks alot David for the excellent information I am really learning alot.
Great :)
Hiya David, thanks again for another fine recipe. I'm really enthusiastic and going to have a go at this at the weekend, just a few questions if that is okay?
1. As its a hazy brew can I omit Irish Moss?
2. How long should it take to ferment out so I can bottle?
3. At which point do you dry hop (I'm using your tea infuser method) in the first three days, middle, or final three days?
4. Is this yeast good to bottle condition or will I need to add another strain - like with Kveik?
Thanks in anticipation!
Thanks Joachim. Sure, no problem at all.
1) Yes
2) Usually in less than a week but I would suggest leaving it for a few more days and it's it is vital to see that it really has finished by checking the FG is not changing over 3 days.
3) I suggest waiting until you are 5-10 points away from FG
4) No concerns with this one.
I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks so much David. Also looking forward to using my new ispindle and relay with this, so hopefully I know with a greater degree of accuracy when I'm 5 - 0 points away from FG - both Christmas presents from my wife. I guess she has been tuning into your channel too!
Great, yes ideal :)
Looks cool - I’ve not used much Vienna malt so intrigued to give this a go.
Just wondering why it would be “crazy” to ferment under pressure with this yeast?
Great, thanks Ben. The best thing about this yeast is its ester flavours. If you pressure ferment then you will lose those 🙂
I see.
I’ve seen a few people doing this sort of thing but bumping the temperatures up to say 25-27c which allows the esters to form and speeds up fermentation.
I’ve also heard of people waiting I till day 5 or so to bump up pressure to help carbonate the beer faster without limiting the water production during primary fermentation.
What’s your thoughts on this approach?
Sure, temp vs pressure can be played with. It will take some trial and error to get right but perhaps it is worth it for some people. Having said this, it is a 5 day ferment by standard, faster than many regular yeast strains.
Hi David, As your new student... (4 batches brewed, none tasted yet. Should be tasting batch no 1 next weekend). I brewed your Verdant IPA yesterday. Expectations are high. I often see you throw your hops into the wort during your brew. So i did the same for the first two batches and ended up with a thick layer of hops on the bottom screen (Brewzilla 3.1.1) and a thick layer of hops in the fermenter... For the third batch I used a hop sock for the 60 min addition and filtered the wort in a strainer while tranfsfering to the fermenter giving the wort a good aeration as well I suppose, and possibly a cleaner beer as I will see soon. For the fourth batch' we had the idea of positionning the hop socks just under the flow of the recirculation pump while boiling and durind the hopstand at 80 C. It looked like we extraxcted so much oil, even the faom was green. But it smelled very good. Was that a so good idea? I just don't know. I Tasted the wort afterward and it tasted an horrible bitterness that ''scratched the back of my tongue and lasted for hours... I never tasted wort before so have no reference. We'll see. Questions: What I did for that forth bacth; was that against some basic principles that I should have known?? Or should I just not taste my wort. And how do you manage the hops in the brewing system later on when you throw them in? Again, thanks for sharing with us and for your replies as well. Sheers!
Hi Luc, hops on bottom filter are normal but I do not want them transferred into your fermenter. How did you transfer ftom Brewzilla into fermenter?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew For the first two batches, straight from the Brewzilla with the pump. And I ended up with 1 cm thick layer of hops (and some grains) at the bottom of my fermenter (plastic bucket). For the last one, this Verdant IPA, I used hop sock during boil and filtered the wort flow through a mesh strainer when transfering in the fermenter. BTW this Verdant IPA is in my GF conical and I just withdraw the trub from it, and as far as I can tell there where no hops in there. Looks good!
Thank you David. It's incredible the amount of information you share in you videos and just unbelievable to receive replies to our particular questions.
Hi Luc,
Are you using the supplied false bottom filter? This should stop this. It does for me.
I love to answer peoples questions, it is important and I encourage it. There is also the channels Facebook group too for more support and a brewing community.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes I use the supplied false bottom. It is appoximately as coarse as the one we put on top of the grains when mashing. It gets glogged with hops and reduces the pump flow. I have to scrape it sometimes to get some flow back. I think I an on my way to get rid of the hops in the fermenter, I shoul`d come back to you on that.
My main concerne on this ''comment '' was more about using the hop socks under the pump flow and ''Hosing'' it... And the extra bitter taste of the wort after boiling. I suppose tasting the wort in not a current quality control methode :-). Again, Thanks. I do really appreciate your help.
Hmm, I have not had such issues even with crazy amounts of hops. Do you think hops are getting past the false bottom in large amounts?
I am going to brew this delicious beer but i am wondering if one sachete for 20 litres is ok? Pitching calculator suggests 2 packages? I would also like to put the pressure when dry hoping? Do you think it is good idea?
One might be enough but 2 is safer :) Yes, that's fine. Have no pressure for the first 4 days so that you get the esters and aroma from the yeast, then use pressure :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you for your reply. I will stick with your original receipt and give it a try with one sachet. ✌🏻
No problem, hope you enjoy it :)
Gonna try this! Quick question for you.
My ebc is coming in at 11.6 vs your 9.5 because of the malts I need to substitute in. Mainly my Vienna malt is 11.8 vs your 5.5 ebc
Is that a huge deal beyond my beer being darker in colour?
Thats fine 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew follow up Q for you!
You mentioned 3 days dry hop, when would you recommend it be done? On day 5? (Since this is basically an 8 day ferment) or when it reaches a certain gravity or when krausen is at its peak?
Thanks!
Sure. Add when you are 5 points away from FG ideally.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you!
Also when dry hopping, after adding the hops, should I purge my fermenter to rid some of the oxygen that may have entered?
You can but I do not and everything works out. Add the hops gently.
David, Excellent video as always. I plan to brew something very similar soon. I know you dont add your water profile purposely, is there any way you can add it here in the comments?
Many thanks Mark :) I used Randy Moshers IPA profile. I usually mention profiles but forgot to add it here, so sorry sbout that. Here it is:- ca 110 mg 18 na 17 sulfate 350 chloride 50
David Heath Homebrew thank you! Wasn’t sure if you were using an neipa profile or an ipa profile. This sounds like a crowd pleaser and really excited to try this newer yeast strain. Sounds sort of like a London ale mixed with conan
No problem. Yes, this one has been really popular on mass with tasters. This yeast is awesome stuff.
Hey David. I'm going to give this recipe a try. I just scaled it in Brewfather to my gear. I have a question regarding the final gravity. There is an explanation point with it saying that the final gravity is set to a fixed amount to 1.007. It also says to have it estimated to hit the reset button. I tried the reset and it brought my final gravity up to 1.013 and my ABV was adjusted to reflect that at 5.3%. What should I do here? Leave it alone or reset and adjust the OG back up to get the an ABV of 6%. Thanks!
In my experience this yeast goes this low usually with this recipe. Do be warned though, this yeast can go slow in the finish and naturally this cannot be guaranteed.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh ok perfect thanks! With this being my first attempt at this recipe I'll leave it at the fixed FG then and see how it works out. Appreciate the quick response as always David. Cheers!
Cheers Jason, enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Hey David, you mentioned in this video that Verdant yeast isn’t recommended to be used pressure fermentation.
I was planning to brew your NEIPA on the weekend and I was going to ferment under pressure with Verdant yeast. Would I be better off under normal fermentation with an air lock?
I was under the impression that pressure fermentation was good for NEIPA and hoppy beer styles.
Your recommendation would be most appreciated.
Thanks, Gary.
There is a work around. Do not apply pressure until 3-4 days after fermentation start. This is when esters are formed. Then from the point you can add pressure.
Brilliant! Thank you so much for your advise David, and thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it.
Keep the great videos coming, I’m watching 2 - 3 a day and find them very useful and educational.
Thanks, Gary 👍😊
Awesome, thanks Gary 🍻🍻🍻
Would love to try this! When/how do you do the boil and "hop stand"? Boil 50 min, add hops + yeast nutrients and wait 10 min, @60 min lower temp add hops and hold at 80C for 20 min and then chill. Is this correct or is the boil only 10 min?(!) Also with batch sparging, what ratio would you recommend as strike water volume vs sparge water volume? Thanks, love the channel!
60 min boil then Chilled to 80C then loaded up the hops and recirculated for 20 mins. Volumes wise I suggestion using brewing software to work that out :) Glad you are enjoying the channel :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew All right, thanks very much!
:)
Tks for the recipe, it will be my next mash! 👏👏🤟🍻🇧🇷
Awesome, great to hear! Enjoy 🍻🍻
Hi David, I got a 11g pack of this yeast. I just want to make sure before I'll go for heavy underpitch. Did you prepare the starter for 11g pack for batch of this size? The pitch rate on the pack makes me nervous.
Yes, it is a very wide pitch rate. I always follow this pitch rate calc on Lallemands website, never with an issue:- www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/canada/brewers-corner/brewing-tools/pitching-rate-calculator/
Hi David, just wondering what's the best hop to substitute centennial for the dry hop. I'm out. Only have 25g of centennial....I have Simcoe or Chinook, tomahawk, columbus? Or just leave the dry hop at 90g (25g short for my batch size?)
Hi Liam, if you can order some in or some cascade. If not then I would use Simcoe personally. It will not be the same though naturally.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I just left it short. It'll be fine hopefully 🫣😅 thanks
Should be fine, just less aroma :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks again. Doing your Helles again next week with diamond this time 👏👍
Awesome, yes very nice stuff 🍻🍻 Enjoy 🍻🍻