Thought I'd drop in a comment here about the whole process and what I experienced because I just got through doing it on my 2014 Smart that has 91,514 miles on it. My car had been surging a little bit when in drive, and when I put it in reverse, that's where the really big problem was, it was chattering and jerking. When I began investigating what it could be and ran across these type videos I thought, for sure I had found the fix. It turned out it WAS the fix! My car now runs and operates like it did when it was new. Couple of things to point out for everyone. When you are setting up the "lash", the amount of "pressure" on the clutch level itself, all I did was feel for the actuator rod to touch up against the clutch lever. Now I moved back and forth about six or seven times till I made sure I was feeling it correctly. From that point I put a little bit of pressure on the actuator itself, and I was very careful, as I slid it towards the bellhousing three more indicator lines. So everyone clearly understands. There are indicator lines, kind of like quarter round lines. The type you're seeing in these videos that are molded into the housing of the actuator. When I touch the clutch lever there were three lines showing. Then I pushed it three more. That's what the manual calls for you to do. It's easy to find this one line. The Other important thing I wanted to share with everybody is I did not have the software nor a laptop to plug into the car. The more I read about doing this job.I learn that you do not have to do that. Once you're finished with the job and you're about to drive the car to test your work. Just turn the car on and let it idle for about thirty seconds to a minute and a half. The car will learn the actuator position on its own. At least that's what I experienced. And then what I did is, I shifted the car somewhat slowly from park to reverse, to drive, to neutral, to reverse, to drive the neutral, and I repeated that maybe ten times slowly while my foot was on the brake. Then I dropped it in drive And went twenty or thirty feet stopped it, put it in reverse, did the same thing forwards and backwards, about six to eight times. At this point I knew immediately that the car was in tremendously better shape than it had been for the last eight ten thousand miles. My biggest problem is that when I was in reverse backing up, the car would shake and chatter very hard. Almost surging at times. That was all gone immediately. Then I took it for a shakedown run. As i've already mentioned, it ran, just like it was brand new. Hope this info helps some of you out there.
Thanks to this and a couple of other videos I watched, I was able to remove, open, and regrease my 2013. It was very clean inside but, it had no grease left to speak of. The car now pulls away from a stop and goes through the gears much more smoothly. Thanks again.
@@Jazda Thanks for your video! Since I'm about to repair my 2015 Brabus actuator and your rebuild was uploaded 3 years ago, what was your experience over the years? Did the re-greasing last and how did it perform?
This is the first vid I've seen thst said to put it in reverse before disconnecting. I've replaced a unit previous to watching this and car didnt want to move when giving it gas, and would jump. New unit on the way, hoping this fixes new unit + this information fixes.
I had to replace the actuator around 2015 for 800 euro, the wormgear was broken. Now i have the reverse problem from time to time, i will try this. Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 09 ForTwo has extremely rough shifts when it rains/too much water on road. I'm guessing that gasket inside has gone bad on mine. I was afraid this was going to be very difficult and expensive, but now I see it looks quite easy to remedy.
Hi, mine did that as well. I did all sorts of adjustments on the actuator, and everytime it worked for a while. The real cause was the power/signal cable rubbing against the gearbox causing a mild short circuit during rain/snow and messing up the signals. i gave it a strip of insulating tape an all sorted.
When I took mine out for repair/servicing, the actuator crescent was at the other position. Fully extended actuator, horrendous, no automatic sliding actuator possible, trying to get the assembly back onto the car was an ongoing nightmare, I had to open the unit up again and push the 'lockbar' to allow the 'plunger' to retract, then hold it retracted with wire until I got the cover back on and the unit fitted. And now it doesn't work at all!!! Update is that battery somehow ended up flat and when charged up and turned on, the actuator worked. Did a few gear operations with ignition on but no engine running. Then started car, EML stayed on, 2x codes, P0335 and P0805, Clutch position error and crankshaft sensor. Cleared both faults and tested car. Alternator charging at 14.1v at rest and revving. Car running well. Will keep you updated. I don't know why the motor was in operated [actuator fully out] position. I had driven the car forward into the garage yesterday and car was in neutral when I switched it off to begin the job. Can the motor be removed and the crescent slowly rotated by hand to 'service position'? Would the large spring do anything weird?
Thanks great video my 2009 Just suddenly died this morning after a clunking noise and now won't start so will be focusing on the actuator. Love my smart first thing in 3yrs it let me down.
Thanks. Will give this a shot on my 2012. Get gear jams on rainy days and in winter. So annoying. I had to buy a second vehicle because of this issue. Hopefully a seal replacement and re-grease solves the issue.
I noticed the same on mines, but i also noticed that there is some sort of blower that comes on ( located on the rear passenger side of the motor). If you wait until that fan shuts off, it switches gears perfectly. Almost like the motor has to get vacuum build up for the engine before its warmed up. Usually this blower turns off after about 45 seconds to 1 minute. If i don’t wait, it will only show park and neutral
@@Jazda i am not 100% sure, but it works every time i let it warm up and let that blower shut off. I kinda stumbled on to making it work every time this way. I just got this vehicle. I have read up that sometimes if the brake switch doesn’t work, it will not work either. So if the brake lights don’t work, then usually it will also not work. But the brake lights don’t actually come on like a regular car. They come on after the car is actually on. So this car is very unusual to say the least.
I have a 2009 451 0.8 CDI "automatic" gearbox, and my issue is different from what I've seen around. Whenever I shift to D or R, it just drives while bouncing, stuttering, like the shift isn't really engaged. Sometimes it just stalls, and engine turns off. I'm thinking of opening the actuator to clean it and grease it anyways. Have you ever experienced this issue ?
No, I've not experienced that, it greasing it is cheap and definitely won't harm anything. Sounds like the clutch might be worn or you might need the clutch to be recalibrated.
My Smart won't engage reverse especially if parked sideways uphill, but works OK in level ground. What could it be, please help. It engages drive normally though.
So, the cover you take off to access the internals of the clutch mechanism is facing the ground when the unit is still in the car. Therefore it seems to me, that you could do this cleaning and greasing process with the unit in the car. Just lay on your back under the car and work away. No need to take it out and to the work bench... Thank you though, for showing how the clutch adjustment tool works, I need to go find me one of those for my car, just to be sure the clutch is always in proper adjustment.
sorry, i know this is an older video, but where can i purchase the software you using in this video to “relearn” the gears? is it available to the public?
@@Jazda i ordered my replacement actuator from amazon (im sure it’s a substandard off-brand like “A-Premium”). which did not include any software. do you know if there’s any websites that i can download the necessary software so my car will re-learn the gears? cause i know i can’t afford the bill from a Mercedes dealership.
what gear do you leave the car in when taking out the Acutator? I do not have any of the electronics you have but could get that don't at the Mercedes dealership where the car was purchased, correct? is it necessary?
Step 1. Go to 1:30. Put it in reverse. You should be able to get it in the ballpark when reinstalling if you mark it before you take it off. Then the dealer can fine tune it.
Nice video. When I use the delphi ds150 to teach clutch, all I get is "wrong answer". Do you know why this would be, then of courser the P0180 code is registered.
I am having a problem the car seems to have like a trans lock and won't move off in forward or back. Seems like rusting on something and not releasing I put a long arm wheel brace on and shook it lose by hand forward and back rocking and got a clunk and it released what part is faulty to do this?
when you started the car.could the voltage drop as the starter is drawing the currant. this will cut out connection to code reader. you could try the procedure with car running, ?? or connect a starter charger. poss?
Hello @jazda Hellos friends, please i need help, I just bought a 2007 Smart 451 Diesel, When I start it there is the yellow engine light that stays on (1 time out of 5), On the other hand, when it stays on, the car apparently goes into Safe mode (Security) and therefore no function works, nor the change of gears, nor acceleration. I decided to change the actuator (the speed actuator) I bought a cheap one on Cdiscount without brand, Apparently it does not come from there, I changed the gearbox computer, it does not come from that either, I carried out a Mercedes diagnosis at a Smart Mercedes specialist in Marseille, the gearbox update etc. ... failed and the faults that come out are: P0805 “Clutch System Fault” (current in memory) P1700 "Resisting torque at gearbox input (current in memory) P1800 "Implausible gearbox data (current and stored event). Something else, The car sometimes starts cold and stops like it doesn't have enough power, so I cleaned the EGR valve, put it back in and it wouldn't start, I had to redo it started with a start pilot spray can, Then it worked normally, but yesterday it went out again when I started (cold engine), infact sometimes I have to accelerate a little so that it stays started (but only when cold on the first start) I should mention that I changed the glow plugs too. Anyway, my real problem is that famous yellow engine light that prevents me from driving when starting, I also specify that the Diagnostics guy, to find a method so that the light goes out when it is on just to drive, he plays with the gearbox by switching to R, N, D, 1 quickly several times in a row, and when he does this the light disappears, the engine speed changes (we feel like a slight acceleration), and then, once the yellow engine light is off, I can drive... Please help me, because I'm afraid to change the clutch unnecessarily, especially since the car is only 60,000 kilometers old. Thanks very much.
I'm not a Smart mechanic and have never owned a Smart diesel, so can't really offer any advice, other than to check out Evilution.co.uk for solutions. I hope that helps.
Wouldnt the actuator be actuated when you put it in reverse, so when I took it off the spring is released and has a lot of tension. Now its a pain in the ass to put it back and im putting a lot of tension to manually push the clutch fork
Its an american smart fortwo so it starts on park and not in reverse, I disconnectted the battery on neutral and its actuated. Am i better disconnecting it on park so it wont be actuated when i take it off again
Nice, so in the end theres no reprogramming needed? The electric motor can be serviced or that just leave there? Anyway nice brabus, mine is a Passion Turbo
@@Jazda I’ve actually just managed to sort it, connected the battery up while reset, calibration would t work but it’s perfect I did mark prior the taken it off then back in the same position
Not sure what you mean by "it's not a Brabus", but the MX5 is not gone anywhere, just sleeping over the Winter. The Smart is gone now, replaced with a Honda CRZ for the daily duties.
Thought I'd drop in a comment here about the whole process and what I experienced because I just got through doing it on my 2014 Smart that has 91,514 miles on it. My car had been surging a little bit when in drive, and when I put it in reverse, that's where the really big problem was, it was chattering and jerking. When I began investigating what it could be and ran across these type videos I thought, for sure I had found the fix. It turned out it WAS the fix! My car now runs and operates like it did when it was new. Couple of things to point out for everyone. When you are setting up the "lash", the amount of "pressure" on the clutch level itself, all I did was feel for the actuator rod to touch up against the clutch lever. Now I moved back and forth about six or seven times till I made sure I was feeling it correctly. From that point I put a little bit of pressure on the actuator itself, and I was very careful, as I slid it towards the bellhousing three more indicator lines. So everyone clearly understands. There are indicator lines, kind of like quarter round lines. The type you're seeing in these videos that are molded into the housing of the actuator. When I touch the clutch lever there were three lines showing. Then I pushed it three more. That's what the manual calls for you to do. It's easy to find this one line. The Other important thing I wanted to share with everybody is I did not have the software nor a laptop to plug into the car. The more I read about doing this job.I learn that you do not have to do that. Once you're finished with the job and you're about to drive the car to test your work. Just turn the car on and let it idle for about thirty seconds to a minute and a half. The car will learn the actuator position on its own. At least that's what I experienced. And then what I did is, I shifted the car somewhat slowly from park to reverse, to drive, to neutral, to reverse, to drive the neutral, and I repeated that maybe ten times slowly while my foot was on the brake. Then I dropped it in drive And went twenty or thirty feet stopped it, put it in reverse, did the same thing forwards and backwards, about six to eight times. At this point I knew immediately that the car was in tremendously better shape than it had been for the last eight ten thousand miles. My biggest problem is that when I was in reverse backing up, the car would shake and chatter very hard. Almost surging at times. That was all gone immediately. Then I took it for a shakedown run. As i've already mentioned, it ran, just like it was brand new. Hope this info helps some of you out there.
Very very helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks to this and a couple of other videos I watched, I was able to remove, open, and regrease my 2013. It was very clean inside but, it had no grease left to speak of. The car now pulls away from a stop and goes through the gears much more smoothly. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
@@Jazda Thanks for your video!
Since I'm about to repair my 2015 Brabus actuator and your rebuild was uploaded 3 years ago, what was your experience over the years?
Did the re-greasing last and how did it perform?
I only kept the car for 6 months, so I have no idea! I get bored and change cars often. Variety is the spice of life 😉
@@Jazda Cool, thanks!
This is the first vid I've seen thst said to put it in reverse before disconnecting. I've replaced a unit previous to watching this and car didnt want to move when giving it gas, and would jump. New unit on the way, hoping this fixes new unit + this information fixes.
Did you get an engine management light come on when you’re gear changes was getting bad prior to greasing the actuator?
Nope
Just did that to my moms car. There was no grease at all in it! There was lots of corrosion inside. Works great now.
I had to replace the actuator around 2015 for 800 euro, the wormgear was broken.
Now i have the reverse problem from time to time, i will try this. Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 09 ForTwo has extremely rough shifts when it rains/too much water on road. I'm guessing that gasket inside has gone bad on mine. I was afraid this was going to be very difficult and expensive, but now I see it looks quite easy to remedy.
Yep. Very do-able. Easy to access, which is not something you often say with a Smart 🙈
Hi, mine did that as well. I did all sorts of adjustments on the actuator, and everytime it worked for a while. The real cause was the power/signal cable rubbing against the gearbox causing a mild short circuit during rain/snow and messing up the signals. i gave it a strip of insulating tape an all sorted.
@@jonjessenis this the cable that connect the actuator to the ecu?
@@cnryan1 i believe so, it's also the power cable.
When I took mine out for repair/servicing, the actuator crescent was at the other position. Fully extended actuator, horrendous, no automatic sliding actuator possible, trying to get the assembly back onto the car was an ongoing nightmare, I had to open the unit up again and push the 'lockbar' to allow the 'plunger' to retract, then hold it retracted with wire until I got the cover back on and the unit fitted.
And now it doesn't work at all!!!
Update is that battery somehow ended up flat and when charged up and turned on, the actuator worked. Did a few gear operations with ignition on but no engine running.
Then started car, EML stayed on, 2x codes, P0335 and P0805, Clutch position error and crankshaft sensor. Cleared both faults and tested car. Alternator charging at 14.1v at rest and revving.
Car running well. Will keep you updated.
I don't know why the motor was in operated [actuator fully out] position. I had driven the car forward into the garage yesterday and car was in neutral when I switched it off to begin the job.
Can the motor be removed and the crescent slowly rotated by hand to 'service position'? Would the large spring do anything weird?
That sounds like a nightmare 🙈
I have done the same job on my smart 2001. Not the same actuator but the same principle! Thank you very much!!!
Nice one!
Thanks great video my 2009 Just suddenly died this morning after a clunking noise and now won't start so will be focusing on the actuator. Love my smart first thing in 3yrs it let me down.
Best of luck fixing it 🤞🏻
Thanks. Will give this a shot on my 2012. Get gear jams on rainy days and in winter. So annoying. I had to buy a second vehicle because of this issue. Hopefully a seal replacement and re-grease solves the issue.
Definitely worth a shot.
I noticed the same on mines, but i also noticed that there is some sort of blower that comes on ( located on the rear passenger side of the motor). If you wait until that fan shuts off, it switches gears perfectly. Almost like the motor has to get vacuum build up for the engine before its warmed up. Usually this blower turns off after about 45 seconds to 1 minute. If i don’t wait, it will only show park and neutral
Strange. I didn't think it worked on vacuum, but I could be wrong.
@@Jazda i am not 100% sure, but it works every time i let it warm up and let that blower shut off. I kinda stumbled on to making it work every time this way. I just got this vehicle. I have read up that sometimes if the brake switch doesn’t work, it will not work either. So if the brake lights don’t work, then usually it will also not work. But the brake lights don’t actually come on like a regular car. They come on after the car is actually on. So this car is very unusual to say the least.
Nice video. What happens if you dont have a laptop and the software? Will the car "learn" the cutch on its own eventually?
Kind of. The actuator needs to be in the ball park, so it's worth taking note where it's sitting when you remove it
I have a 2009 451 0.8 CDI "automatic" gearbox, and my issue is different from what I've seen around. Whenever I shift to D or R, it just drives while bouncing, stuttering, like the shift isn't really engaged. Sometimes it just stalls, and engine turns off. I'm thinking of opening the actuator to clean it and grease it anyways.
Have you ever experienced this issue ?
No, I've not experienced that, it greasing it is cheap and definitely won't harm anything. Sounds like the clutch might be worn or you might need the clutch to be recalibrated.
My Smart won't engage reverse especially if parked sideways uphill, but works OK in level ground. What could it be, please help. It engages drive normally though.
Sounds like a similar issue to what I have described in this video. Did you watch it? 😂
Great vid. What was the software you were using to relearn the clutch ???
It was Delphi software that came with the scanner. I got it from Aliexpress.
Hi, good vid. U put in reverse b4 removing the actuator, orgers say N , whats best please
I didn't try N, but R seemed to work.
It really helps when you get into the computer and do a clutch relearn after doing this
Agreed.
Thanks for posting this tutorial, so helpful.
So, the cover you take off to access the internals of the clutch mechanism is facing the ground when the unit is still in the car. Therefore it seems to me, that you could do this cleaning and greasing process with the unit in the car. Just lay on your back under the car and work away. No need to take it out and to the work bench... Thank you though, for showing how the clutch adjustment tool works, I need to go find me one of those for my car, just to be sure the clutch is always in proper adjustment.
But the bolts are on the top ! So can't be done.
Hi, thanks for you tutorial. One stupid question? Do you first turn off the key before you disconnect the battery?
Yes
So 1 year later, did this end up fixing your issue?
Car sold a couple of weeks after this, but haven't heard back that there were any issues.
sorry, i know this is an older video, but where can i purchase the software you using in this video to “relearn” the gears? is it available to the public?
I think the software came with the Delphi unit I bought from Aliexpress.
@@Jazda i ordered my replacement actuator from amazon (im sure it’s a substandard off-brand like “A-Premium”). which did not include any software.
do you know if there’s any websites that i can download the necessary software so my car will re-learn the gears? cause i know i can’t afford the bill from a Mercedes dealership.
No, sorry.
Hello, I have a problem. I can't shift. The gear only shows N. What could be the problem?
I'd post that question on one of the Smart Car Facebook groups and I'm sure someone can help. I'd also have a look at evilution.co.uk
@@Jazda I have 3 lines on the display and made a video recording on the actuator, which doesn't work
See above
what gear do you leave the car in when taking out the Acutator? I do not have any of the electronics you have but could get that don't at the Mercedes dealership where the car was purchased, correct? is it necessary?
Step 1. Go to 1:30. Put it in reverse. You should be able to get it in the ballpark when reinstalling if you mark it before you take it off. Then the dealer can fine tune it.
My clutch is slipping on highway and smelling after slipping, not jerking or any problems with shifting or starting to drive tho....
Clutch in need of replacement?
Nice video. When I use the delphi ds150 to teach clutch, all I get is "wrong answer". Do you know why this would be, then of courser the P0180 code is registered.
No idea, sorry
I am having a problem the car seems to have like a trans lock and won't move off in forward or back. Seems like rusting on something and not releasing I put a long arm wheel brace on and shook it lose by hand forward and back rocking and got a clunk and it released what part is faulty to do this?
Not sure. Have a look on evilution.co.uk
So give us an update - did it fix the problem?
Yes. I sold the car about a month later, but had no issues.
How does that turbo feel I have n/a model but I love it 2012 smart for two passion Thanks for your video my friend
Chalk and cheese. I've driven a MHD non-turbo and it was very slow in comparison.
Really love your videos, easy listening: EXCEPT the ridiculously loud intro music. Please consider it. Thanks!
Will lower it a little for the next one. Thanks for the feedback!
Smart car 👌
Se puede quitar la tapa para poder engrasar colocado en el vehículo??lo digo para no tener qué meterle la computadora
Not sure. You could try I suppose, and remove if you have to.
Is the lithium grease mandatory or I can use another kind of grease ?
I believe some greases can react with the plastic parts or be too abrasive, so I wouldn't risk anything else.
when you started the car.could the voltage drop as the starter is drawing the currant. this will cut out connection to code reader. you could try the procedure with car running, ?? or connect a starter charger. poss?
Hello @jazda Hellos friends,
please i need help,
I just bought a 2007 Smart 451 Diesel,
When I start it there is the yellow engine light that stays on (1 time out of 5),
On the other hand, when it stays on, the car apparently goes into Safe mode (Security) and therefore no function works, nor the change of gears,
nor acceleration.
I decided to change the actuator (the speed actuator) I bought a cheap one on Cdiscount without brand,
Apparently it does not come from there, I changed the gearbox computer, it does not come from that either, I carried out a Mercedes diagnosis at a Smart Mercedes specialist in Marseille, the gearbox update etc. ... failed
and the faults that come out are:
P0805 “Clutch System Fault” (current in memory)
P1700 "Resisting torque at gearbox input (current in memory)
P1800 "Implausible gearbox data (current and stored event).
Something else,
The car sometimes starts cold and stops like it doesn't have enough power, so I cleaned the EGR valve, put it back in and it wouldn't start, I had to redo it started with a start pilot spray can,
Then it worked normally, but yesterday it went out again when I started (cold engine),
infact sometimes I have to accelerate a little so that it stays started (but only when cold on the first start)
I should mention that I changed the glow plugs too.
Anyway, my real problem is that famous yellow engine light that prevents me from driving when starting,
I also specify that the Diagnostics guy, to find a method so that the light goes out when it is on just to drive,
he plays with the gearbox by switching to R, N, D, 1 quickly several times in a row, and when he does this the light disappears, the engine speed changes (we feel like a slight acceleration),
and then, once the yellow engine light is off, I can drive...
Please help me, because I'm afraid to change the clutch unnecessarily, especially since the car is only 60,000 kilometers old.
Thanks very much.
I'm not a Smart mechanic and have never owned a Smart diesel, so can't really offer any advice, other than to check out Evilution.co.uk for solutions. I hope that helps.
What OB reader is that ?, I want one 👍🏻
DS150 scanner from Aliexpress
@@Jazda thanks for that 👍🏻
Wouldnt the actuator be actuated when you put it in reverse, so when I took it off the spring is released and has a lot of tension. Now its a pain in the ass to put it back and im putting a lot of tension to manually push the clutch fork
Its an american smart fortwo so it starts on park and not in reverse, I disconnectted the battery on neutral and its actuated. Am i better disconnecting it on park so it wont be actuated when i take it off again
Not sure to be honest. Have a look on evilution.co.uk and you might find more info about this.
Nice, so in the end theres no reprogramming needed? The electric motor can be serviced or that just leave there? Anyway nice brabus, mine is a Passion Turbo
Programming not essential, no
do you use Delphi diagnose to regulate the actuator? can you abilitate soft touch gear, or other optionals?
I used a knockoff Delphi. I didn't see any options for turning on features but it may be in there. MB Star is the official one, but costs a fortune 🤑
@@Jazda I did a clean and regrease and works amazing, anyway i bought a new actuator changed recently and keep old actuator in case of emergency.
@@oerunekoi nice one!
Great video, I’ve just replaced the actuator on my wife’s 451, due to a failing one, reset ecu with Delphi but thing won’t start now
Are you getting any error codes?
@@Jazda I’ve actually just managed to sort it, connected the battery up while reset, calibration would t work but it’s perfect I did mark prior the taken it off then back in the same position
Also a quick one the battery in the key is new but 99% of the time it won’t lock via key then it will now and again any idea on why this would happen
Not heard of that one. Do a search on evilution.co.uk
@@Jazda will take a look, but however your guide to solve the issue, battery was at 11v put on charge and no issues
did your smart came with the Brabus Sport Steering wheel?
Not sure. It was leather wrapped and had a Smart logo in the middle (not a Brabus logo)
@@Jazda thats cuz the airbag is from Smart but that steering wheel is by brabus so did you buy your smart used?
Yes
Can I ask what diag tool you used
DS150 scanner from Aliexpress
Can you help me, my smart fortwo don't show me the letter N in the screen when the car is in neutral position
Have a look on evilution.co.uk for an article about this
@@Jazdathanks a lot
WOW... jumpscare @ 0:23.. damn loud musac...
The subject is very interesting though.
Yeah, I've toned down the music over the years. Some of my recent ones have zero music.
The other tool in the battery what is?
Battery charger?
Its gotta turd bolt ? What's that do ? Is it some kind of weird German thing ???
Not sure I understand your question
What software are you using on the laptop?
Delphi Diagnostics
@@Jazda thanks, Brotha! Love your videos!
I’m having such a hard time adjusting from the mx5 to the smart. It’s not a Brabus and feels like the complete opposite to the 5.
Not sure what you mean by "it's not a Brabus", but the MX5 is not gone anywhere, just sleeping over the Winter. The Smart is gone now, replaced with a Honda CRZ for the daily duties.
The car star but don't go Forward, don't go in reverse
If you do another one get rid of the music
I don't have the Smart anymore, so good luck with that 😂
Slan ?
It means goodbye in the Irish language 😉
@@Jazda 😁Thanks
Czemu pieprzysz po amerykansku będąc Polakiem
This is a total waste of time
If it won’t go into gear it’s because the clutch is finished
New grease in the actuator does absolutely nothing
Correct. If your clutch is toast, this won't help, but this can often happen when you have lots of clutch life left (like in my case).