Zero Chlorine in my Pool, What Gives!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- One of the biggest problems that you can run into with your swimming pool is that it stops holding chlorine. We refer to this in the industry as the chlorine zeroing out. There are several reasons for this and it is more noticeable in the Spring and Summer when the weather starts heating up and the Sun’s UV Rays become stronger. I will touch on the most common reasons why your pool is not holding chlorine week to week.
One of the first things to look at is the pool’s filtration system in run time. This is often overlooked and is crucial to the pool holding chlorine. If the skimmer basket is clogged with debris or the pump basket is clogged the pool will not circulate well. The filter is just as crucial so if it is dirty or the cartridges or grids have tears in them, chances are the pool will have a zero-chlorine reading due to the organic contaminates not being filtered out properly. First, check your pool filtration and your skimmer and pump baskets and make sure they are running efficiently.
If you have a Salt Water System (Salt Water Generator) and you do not run your pool long enough, the salt cell cannot produce enough chlorine each day to reach a sustainable level. You can also have the pool running long enough but you may have the salt output set too low. Set the salt output to 100% and then decrease it if it is producing too much chlorine. Not the other way around.
Algae, Organic Debris, Phosphates, and Nitrates can all affect the chlorine in the pool also. If your pool has visible algae chances are the chlorine is being used up fast as it tries to fight the algae. Phosphates and the less common Nitrates can also quickly destroy the pool’s chlorine level. If the pool water is cloudy or there are visible algae, then there is a water quality issue. One way to solve this is to bring the chlorine level up to shock levels of 20 ppm and run the pool for 12-24 hours. You may also have too little Conditioner (CYA) in the pool. Test the CYA level and make sure it is at least 30 ppm, otherwise, the Sun will burn off the chlorine within hours.
You could also be using bad chlorine. What I mean by this is chlorine that is expired, especially in the case of liquid chlorine. Over time the power of the chlorine gets weaker. Just like leaving a gallon of bleach in your laundry room and not using it for several months. When you do use it you will notice that it is very weak and does almost nothing when added to the washer. Liquid chlorine also will get weaker over time. So if you purchase it at your local Walmart or Home Depot don’t be surprised if it is ineffective because they failed to rotate their stock. Shock in a bag has a shelf life of about 2 years but that too can get weaker over time. Keep your chlorine fresh by purchasing what you need when you need it and try to buy it from a local pool store versus the big box retail or hardware stores.
Visit my Website: www.swimmingpoo...
eBook: www.swimmingpo...
RUclips Video Index: poolmandave.blo... - A list of all of my videos.
Blogger: poolmandave.blo...
Facebook: / swimmingpoollearning
poolguycoachin... / mrdgvb1
Join me on Patreon: / poolguycoaching
Podcast: www.buzzsprout....
Podcast Website: www.thepoolguy...
Coaching Site: poolguycoachin...
Shop at Leslie's: Leslie’s Pool Supplies has been do-it-yourselfers and pool trade professionals trusted partner since 1963, providing quality products and services to make pool care easy and solutions and expertise to do it right. lesliespool.com...
Stabilizer could be to low to hold chlorine in your pool especially if it is salt.
Yes, very common.
I have a question somewhat related to this. I just replaced my pump, filter, and plumbing. I went from a 150SQFT filter to a 320 quad; and a 011018 (Pentairs OG VS flagship) to IntelliFlo XF 022056. It definitely drop my pressure, which is good in my case, but I think it also dropped my flow. I used to measure with one of those flow gauges that goes in the check valve (FloVis) and would get some where around 60-65 GPM for 2500RPM. Now I measure GPM on the pump (it's a VSF) and it's only reading 35 GPM, does that seem right? It doesn't make sense, I put on a bigger filter, pump, and plumbing. What am I missing?
How about checking the plates on a salt water generator and treating with muriatic acid if lots of calcium build up?
That too. 👍
pool chems are multi - issue \ solutions. glad i am learning on a 1k gallon pool. thanks for the tips. muriatic acid to lower alkanity and lower ph, right?
Shock pool to free chlorine by 4x's normal chlorine used.
Yes on all accounts.
Great great info. So, for my 1k gallon pool '0' chlorine on test. why not, just add the chlorine daily and not need to add stabilizer, right? I finally got the ph/alkalinity right, thanks to you, again thanks.
The chlorine will last 4-5 times longer with CYA in the water to 50 ppm. So you will be wasting a bit of money if you don't add CYA.
I drain 1-2 feet out of pool.
Refill. It works for phosphate issues.
My Chlorine production is at 05% flow , is this right?
Not sure what salt system you have. I try not to go below 40% output
your testing strips could be too OLD.
That’s Reason 1,001 not to use test strips