Love this video! As a contractor I have a idea of what needs to happen, watching this video confirms that it really is that simple. Some people learn just by watching others this video does just that, thank you!
I agree with the comments above as well. There are water based parasites that thrive in tanks, and bleach. There is one in particular in the States that is becoming a very big problem in swim pools and hot tubs used by the public-Cryptosporidiosis. If a broken septic line is possible, ground water may be contaminated. The anode rod plays a crucial role yes! And it can also be a solution for stinky water if it’s deteriorating. May I say as well, please instruct the first step - turn off the the tank at the breaker! Anyone who has watched this and didn’t do that definitely will ruin the elements. I’ve found a way to disinfect that may be helpful to some. By installing a valve, coupled with a hose, off the hot water outlet. I close the cold water intake, and open the drain until it stops flowing. When the flow stops after a few minutes, I open the valve with the hose I’ve installed, creating a negative pressure, with the hose end in up a cup of hydrogen peroxide, sucking it into the tank. Then I close the hose valve, drain valve, open a tap turned to hot water only (lowest tap in the home to prevent air lock) and then I open the cold water intake valve-slowly. I open and close gently for all. When water starts to flow at full pressure from my lowest point tap, I shut off that tap and work my way through the house to the highest valve. Then the breaker can be turned on. This is an easy, quick method for regular disinfecting, if you’re on a well like I am. One must be cautious if chlorine is introduced in the system already, the chemical reaction can be dangerous, especially under pressure and heat! Be safe to all!
Bleach will kill the anaerobic bacteria that causes the rotten eggs smell, however it will come back if the water just sits, like when you're on vacation. That annode rod, typically made of magnesium is part of the problem. Replacinv the stock annode with one made with aluminum and zinc is the ultimate better solution as it will protect your tank (the purpose of the annode) AND not create the sulfide smell.
Why not run the bleach water through all the hot water pipes? Isn't there bacteria in the lines as well? Seems like the bacteria would come right back if there is any in the lines. I was thinking to run the bleached tank water to every hot water outlet and then let everything sit for 30 minutes. Then drain the tank and rinse the tank. Then let the hot water line run for a couple minutes to clear all the lines of bleach. If there is live bacteria anywhere in the system, wouldn't it just grow right back? What's your thoughts? Thank you.
You might be on to something. My thought is that the water in the lines is constantly being flushed as it get used under normal operation, but the water in the tank could potentially sit there forever. Because of this, I think the bacteria in the lines is negligable. Running water is clean water- that's what I always taught in regards to ponds and water features- the same applies here.
@@oddjobsremigauthier my grandfather used to poor a couple gallons of bleach into his well and put his hose in the well. Then circulate for an hour. His well pump lasted for 30 years of doing that once a year. Maybe that will be my next attempt. I replaced my pump 2 years ago, so it's not too late to try it.
Same thing I was thinking and have heard! Run all the hot water faucets and all the sinks including the washer! Run the water until you can't smell the bleach, then follow through with the rinse cycle as the video shows.
@@oddjobsremigauthier after turning off the water inlet for the hot water tank,, I open all of the hot faucets to drain the pipes. The water gravity drains to my basement faucets. This also creates a reverse flow to some degree. When I turn the water back on, all faucets spit out black water for about 30 seconds. So I am guessing that bleaching may help reduce that build-up. I haven't found that it helps much over time. So now I flush the tank and lines every 6 weeks and that seems to control the rotten egg smell from the well water. I have a great softener, so thats not part of the problem.
Why not use concentrated?? My landlord already did that a few hours ago, and I've been trying to get the smell of bleach out of the water. I have a 40 gal tank, and my he put about half a bottle in the tank. He told me to clear the smell of bleach, to just run the got water faucets until the smell is gone then i can take a bath. It's all very different from what I just saw in this video.
@@dawndeefox8125 It has been a few years, and if I did that video again, I would try hydrogen peroxide. What your landlord did might sound extreme, but in the end- no matter how much or little bleach you use, you have to run the water until the smell lessens.
Great Question. At least 1 hot water valve should remain open to allow air to enter or escape the tank as needed. Closed valves will cause air locks, and slow down the draining and filling of the tank.
I must have misunderstood. Did you just advise people to remove the anode (it's called an anode) on a new tank and replace it with a plug? If so, I hope nobody listens. That sacrificial anode is there to keep the steel tank from corroding. Run without it and you can plan on buying a new tank in the near future.
@@efremreyes5437 No, he said that when you buy a new tank, remove the rod and replace it with a plug. He said the rod builds up a coating of contaminants from the water. and when it gets too dirty it "can't take any more". It is in fact, quite the opposite. It's a sacrificial anode, which erodes over time, instead of the tank. protecting the tank. He called the rod an "electromagnetic doohickey thingy". He doesn't realize that the rod is essential to preventing the tank from rusting. It should never be removed, until, of course, it has eroded too much. To be honest, I didn't know this until a few days ago when I had to service my 20 year old tank (yes 20 years). After replacing both heater elements and a thermostat, the hot water still ran out way to early. I sussed out that the cold water was entering into the top of the tank instead of the bottom, and sure enough, when I drained the tank and looked inside, the dip tube had broken away. That's when I notice the anode. I did some research and found out what it was. After 20 years, it took an impact driver to break it loose. What came out was simply the metal rod that used to be surrounded by the 3/4 inch magnesium rod. Fortunately, the interior of the tank was still good, except for some residue in the bottom. The tank has been cleaned and the rod and dip tube have been replaced.
@@efremreyes5437 He said to remove it and put in a plug. I was horrified at this suggestion. Don't replace it with a plug!!! it is essential top protect your tank! i.e. don't listen to this guy, he doesn't know what he is talking about.
@@paulr4353 That was over two years ago and yes he is wrong, The anode should not be removed but you can replace them, I just laughed at seeing my reaction to this video.
Thanks for all the comments on this video. You all bring up some very good points. The whole idea of many of the videos I make are targetted at homeowners that do have a hidden handyman(or handywoman) inside them. I always preach that if you are not comfortable, or have any doubts, then call a professional. I also try to highlight things that can be done on a shoestring budget. This repair is easy to do, and if done regularly, actually extends the life of this appliance. Keep the comments coming, I appreciate the feedback!
@@Rick-the-Swift you need to value your time as well. Is it worth doing this type of repair to a 10+ year old heater for $150? If you are running a business you are losing money
@@plumberbear2514 $150? I thought he just poured some vinegar into it, no? That's like 10-15 bucks tops. Compare that to buying a $600-700+ new unit, then either having to hire a plumber or gas fitter to install, or do the back busting labor yourself along with dismantling and disposing of the old unit. Only to have to do something like this to a new unit every year or two as well. Like you said, your time is money. If the thing spits out hot water, then he's saved both time and money from my view.
@@Rick-the-Swift how many homeowners do you think can honestly tackle this without any problems? It say prob upwards near 80%. On top of that there is a undue risk not worth taking if a water heater is already having problem; depressurization of the tank can also cause leaks So lost people would and should call a plumber, not invest any money into something already past its lifespan
Love this video!
As a contractor I have a idea of what needs to happen, watching this video confirms that it really is that simple. Some people learn just by watching others this video does just that, thank you!
I agree with the comments above as well.
There are water based parasites that thrive in tanks, and bleach.
There is one in particular in the States that is becoming a very big problem in swim pools and hot tubs used by the public-Cryptosporidiosis.
If a broken septic line is possible, ground water may be contaminated.
The anode rod plays a crucial role yes! And it can also be a solution for stinky water if it’s deteriorating.
May I say as well, please instruct the first step - turn off the the tank at the breaker!
Anyone who has watched this and didn’t do that definitely will ruin the elements.
I’ve found a way to disinfect that may be helpful to some.
By installing a valve, coupled with a hose, off the hot water outlet.
I close the cold water intake, and open the drain until it stops flowing.
When the flow stops after a few minutes, I open the valve with the hose I’ve installed, creating a negative pressure, with the hose end in up a cup of hydrogen peroxide, sucking it into the tank.
Then I close the hose valve, drain valve, open a tap turned to hot water only (lowest tap in the home to prevent air lock) and then I open the cold water intake valve-slowly.
I open and close gently for all.
When water starts to flow at full pressure from my lowest point tap, I shut off that tap and work my way through the house to the highest valve.
Then the breaker can be turned on.
This is an easy, quick method for regular disinfecting, if you’re on a well like I am.
One must be cautious if chlorine is introduced in the system already, the chemical reaction can be dangerous, especially under pressure and heat!
Be safe to all!
Bleach will kill the anaerobic bacteria that causes the rotten eggs smell, however it will come back if the water just sits, like when you're on vacation. That annode rod, typically made of magnesium is part of the problem. Replacinv the stock annode with one made with aluminum and zinc is the ultimate better solution as it will protect your tank (the purpose of the annode) AND not create the sulfide smell.
A powered anode helps stinky water a lot.
Why not run the bleach water through all the hot water pipes? Isn't there bacteria in the lines as well? Seems like the bacteria would come right back if there is any in the lines. I was thinking to run the bleached tank water to every hot water outlet and then let everything sit for 30 minutes. Then drain the tank and rinse the tank. Then let the hot water line run for a couple minutes to clear all the lines of bleach. If there is live bacteria anywhere in the system, wouldn't it just grow right back? What's your thoughts? Thank you.
You might be on to something. My thought is that the water in the lines is constantly being flushed as it get used under normal operation, but the water in the tank could potentially sit there forever. Because of this, I think the bacteria in the lines is negligable. Running water is clean water- that's what I always taught in regards to ponds and water features- the same applies here.
@@oddjobsremigauthier my grandfather used to poor a couple gallons of bleach into his well and put his hose in the well. Then circulate for an hour. His well pump lasted for 30 years of doing that once a year. Maybe that will be my next attempt. I replaced my pump 2 years ago, so it's not too late to try it.
Same thing I was thinking and have heard! Run all the hot water faucets and all the sinks including the washer! Run the water until you can't smell the bleach, then follow through with the rinse cycle as the video shows.
@@oddjobsremigauthier after turning off the water inlet for the hot water tank,, I open all of the hot faucets to drain the pipes. The water gravity drains to my basement faucets. This also creates a reverse flow to some degree. When I turn the water back on, all faucets spit out black water for about 30 seconds. So I am guessing that bleaching may help reduce that build-up. I haven't found that it helps much over time. So now I flush the tank and lines every 6 weeks and that seems to control the rotten egg smell from the well water. I have a great softener, so thats not part of the problem.
Very confusing...every 6 weeks? Ugh
Thanks for the video. I have heard hydrogen peroxide is better to use so I used that, but helpful video 👍🏼
Hydrogen Peroxide use in your well, bleach use in your hot water heater.
How’d it work for you?
Why not use concentrated??
My landlord already did that a few hours ago, and I've been trying to get the smell of bleach out of the water. I have a 40 gal tank, and my he put about half a bottle in the tank.
He told me to clear the smell of bleach, to just run the got water faucets until the smell is gone then i can take a bath. It's all very different from what I just saw in this video.
@@dawndeefox8125 It has been a few years, and if I did that video again, I would try hydrogen peroxide. What your landlord did might sound extreme, but in the end- no matter how much or little bleach you use, you have to run the water until the smell lessens.
Do house valves stay open whole time during this process?
Great Question. At least 1 hot water valve should remain open to allow air to enter or escape the tank as needed. Closed valves will cause air locks, and slow down the draining and filling of the tank.
First thing is turn the power off! Hello?
Yeah, not turn it to low.
I must have misunderstood. Did you just advise people to remove the anode (it's called an anode)
on a new tank and replace it with a plug? If so, I hope nobody listens. That sacrificial anode is there to keep the steel tank from corroding. Run without it and you can plan on buying a new tank in the near future.
@@efremreyes5437 No, he said that when you buy a new tank, remove the rod and replace it with a plug. He said the rod builds up a coating of contaminants from the water. and when it gets too dirty it "can't take any more". It is in fact, quite the opposite. It's a sacrificial anode, which erodes over time, instead of the tank. protecting the tank.
He called the rod an "electromagnetic doohickey thingy". He doesn't realize that the rod is essential to preventing the tank from rusting. It should never be removed, until, of course, it has eroded too much.
To be honest, I didn't know this until a few days ago when I had to service my 20 year old tank (yes 20 years). After replacing both heater elements and a thermostat, the hot water still ran out way to early. I sussed out that the cold water was entering into the top of the tank instead of the bottom, and sure enough, when I drained the tank and looked inside, the dip tube had broken away. That's when I notice the anode. I did some research and found out what it was. After 20 years, it took an impact driver to break it loose. What came out was simply the metal rod that used to be surrounded by the 3/4 inch magnesium rod.
Fortunately, the interior of the tank was still good, except for some residue in the bottom. The tank has been cleaned and the rod and dip tube have been replaced.
@@efremreyes5437 He said to remove it and put in a plug. I was horrified at this suggestion. Don't replace it with a plug!!! it is essential top protect your tank! i.e. don't listen to this guy, he doesn't know what he is talking about.
@@paulr4353 That was over two years ago and yes he is wrong, The anode should not be removed but you can replace them, I just laughed at seeing my reaction to this video.
Would it matter how much vinegar I uses (ratio-wise) I would rather use vinegar than bleach.
Thanks for all the comments on this video. You all bring up some very good points. The whole idea of many of the videos I make are targetted at homeowners that do have a hidden handyman(or handywoman) inside them. I always preach that if you are not comfortable, or have any doubts, then call a professional.
I also try to highlight things that can be done on a shoestring budget. This repair is easy to do, and if done regularly, actually extends the life of this appliance. Keep the comments coming, I appreciate the feedback!
all that work and you put less bleach than what people put into a load of laundry. A whole bottle of bleach is like a dollar man.
There is enough toxins in water you drink, why would you add more than what is needed?
Why would you do any repair or disinfectant to a water heater that old?
Replace the water heater, test the water and treat it!
Thanks for watching!
Because it's cheaper and easier to keep using the old one?
@@Rick-the-Swift you need to value your time as well. Is it worth doing this type of repair to a 10+ year old heater for $150? If you are running a business you are losing money
@@plumberbear2514 $150? I thought he just poured some vinegar into it, no? That's like 10-15 bucks tops.
Compare that to buying a $600-700+ new unit, then either having to hire a plumber or gas fitter to install, or do the back busting labor yourself along with dismantling and disposing of the old unit. Only to have to do something like this to a new unit every year or two as well. Like you said, your time is money.
If the thing spits out hot water, then he's saved both time and money from my view.
@@Rick-the-Swift how many homeowners do you think can honestly tackle this without any problems? It say prob upwards near 80%.
On top of that there is a undue risk not worth taking if a water heater is already having problem; depressurization of the tank can also cause leaks
So lost people would and should call a plumber, not invest any money into something already past its lifespan