Cannot thank you enough! Remove air following your instructions in your other video. End up here because same reason need to replace the extension tank, etc… Your instructions are THE BEST in RUclips! Subscribed and saved your video for future reference! Will look at all you other videos see what else you teaching! You are a great teacher!
Excellent instructions. I just replaced 22 years old fill valve and 10 years old expansion tank on my heating system. Thank you for sharing your expertise !🔧👍
I don't know why people don't put a valve in between the tank and the system. You won't need to drain the system when you remove the tank. If the tank is full of water, put a bucket under it drill a hole in the tank and let it pour into the bucket. You're overdoing the pipe dope. Teflon tape is all you need. Nice video.
The code in NY does not allow a ball valve going to the expansion tank in case you forget to turn it back on. I put one on mine anyway to make replacement much easier, and I put a reminder tag on it
Thank you for this video. I was able to do the same job at home. Very well explained. Nothing like other videos I saw even when explained by people in the feel. Thank you. And the money I saved. God blessed
I just watched your other video on purging air and was left wondering how in the world do you drain the system. I also needed to replace my expansion tank. Thank you for this video!!
Thanks for the video. I clicked on this and could not believe what I hear; you and I sound exactly alike. I have had a few friends and family listen and they swear I made this video. They don’t believe me, they think this is me. And you do sound like me in every way. I will send you an example of one of my auto repair videos if you’d like. Anyway, I’m gonna go tackle this expansion tank and air scoop project.
@@fixitwithzim Done. Easy, everything came apart so I didn’t even have to change the air scoop, I just replaced the valve on top. Other than a leak, the blotter in the tank was good. I was going to make a video but I just knocked it out since I have a million things going on.
The installation date Nov 2, 2013 I have been using my 50+-year-old hot water boiler system for over 8 years using 50% less natural gas to heat the hot water to heat the home that has cast iron radiators. When I first purchased the house, it had a pump moving water at 35 gallons per minute at 8 PSI. Today and for the last six years, the pump that was replaced back then is now moving water at 45 gallons per minute at 45 psi. Boiler specialists that went to college to be taught box education disagree with my concept that does work. Heating and cooling individuals are totally wrong in their understanding of using fire efficiently. Let me explain it in an elementary way. On a natural gas stovetop if you turn the flame on high and the flame wraps around the pan and the flame is blazing into the air and not heating the pan you are wasting natural gas or propane gas to fire. The next thing they will tell me it will take longer to heat the pan. Wrong again if you take that same amount of water and you put it in a larger diameter pan with the same amount of water and spread the flames out equally across the larger surface you are capturing the fire that is heating the pan that is the heat exchanger that will heat the water faster. In my boiler system, the three small pilot lights for the boiler were turned down and the 8 large burner jets in the cast-iron boiler were turned down allowing the flame to heat the cast iron 50-year-old plus boiler system heating the water instead of heating the air going out the chimney. Once you achieve that savings by turning down the boiler system you need to add a hot water tank to heat water on the input side of the boiler as a reserve that when the water returns from the house some of it goes through the hot water tank and the rest of the water continues to the boiler as is. When the water is returning, and it is close to the hot water tank and the boiler some of it goes to the boiler and some of it goes to the hot water tank that is plumbed into the return pump that blends the return water from the house and the hot water from the hot water tank on the input side of the pump. Once they blend the returning water from the house and the water that went through the hot water tank then it goes into the actual boiler and gets reheated again and speeds through the plumbing to all the cast iron radiators in the home 45 gallons a minute at 45 psi. You have to know how to adjust the hot water helper tank according to the outside temperature so it does not come on every time the boiler comes on the heat the water in the house because you are defeating the purpose because now you would be using two flames reducing the energy efficiency that you are trying to save. When the temperature outside is over 35°F the hot water tank needs to run below the hot water hot temperature setting that says hot water. When the temperature outside is 15°F to 30°F then you will raise the hot water tank temperature to the hot water setting marked hot water. You have to stand next to the hot water tank during the cycle period to make sure the hot water tank is not running continuously when you are using the hot water tank as a helper. The warmer the temperature is outside the cooler the return water will be traveling back to the heat source to be heated allowing you to turn down the hot water tank, so it does not come on when the return water is returning and some of it is going in the hot water tank as the helper. The helper hot water tank is not to be used as your main hot water source. Once you master your hot water tank to the outside temperature and the return water temperature from the home you will be using only your boiler system gas that was turned down by 50% for your savings of heating the home or business. Let me emphasize again the warmer the temperature is outside the cooler you run your hot water helper tank. The cooler it is outside the warmer you run your hot water tank because the return water will be returning to the tank on the return side much hotter matching your hot water tank setting on the hot water tank. Once you do it for the first time and you measure your return hot water temperature you will fully understand that hot water is a hot water energy bank of energy stored to help heat the home and for assisting the boiler. When it comes to a forced-air furnace that will be in a new description later that I will show how to work that system with the exhaust gas motor fan speed and the amount of natural gas being used in the heat exchanger and the speed of the home circulation fan all working together differently from what the manufacturer requires. Remember everything was designed to use more fuel than what is needed due to the flame size, heat exchanger size, and moving the heat with the circulation fan. ****My system set up**** Nov 2, 2013 We just Made public the 2 videos again of the installation date of the 45 gallons per minute and 45 psi pump setup boiler system set up flow rate of natural gas being used. ruclips.net/video/-6OXglr9vzY/видео.html Showing the reduction of Natural gas flow on the boiler system. ruclips.net/video/0gRnTyiC-g0/видео.html --------------------------------------------------------------------- This link is someone converting their forced air furnace into a forced-air hot water heating system. ruclips.net/video/M6Ud1-SHHK0/видео.html This link will reaffirm my concept is not fantasy but fact. ruclips.net/user/results... Second link www.google.com/search?q=hot+water+forced+air+furnace&sxsrf=AOaemvJ0QgkYgolZLAH4wtX53JOv8TlkOw:1641528593453&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwiSy83F4p71AhVL6RoKHRi1CnEQ_AUoA3oECAIQBQ&biw=1529&bih=511&dpr=2.25
Very helpful video. I have a question about the pressures you mentioned. I bought a new expansion tank and it has a setting of 40psig from the factory. Should I drop the pressure to 12psig?
Good and concise. thanks. My boiler doesn't have a float check value (2:03) . What should I watch out for if I want to drain boiler from bottom of unit.
Aside from initial installation time/cost, what's the advantage of bladder type expansion tanks over the "old" style metal tanks that almost never break down or cause problems? Depending upon your source water quality, the rubber in the bladder will naturally degrade by about 1psi per year, and will also start to allow gasses to permeate the rubber and obviate the bladder's purpose, hence the need to replace them.
Hi, thanx for the video. I’m getting purge valve blowoff when the system heats up. I had this about 5 years ago so I replaced the expansion tank and it was all better. Now it’s doing it again. I thought that was an awfully short life for the tank. I pressed the Schrader valve at the bottom expecting water to come out, but it was air. Doesn’t that mean the tank is still good? I also replaced the combo fill/purge valve at about the same time. Thanx again.
love your vids. newbies like myself are less afraid after watching. i have issue where my baseboard are cold. i just replaced prv and im not sure why. system fires up by feels like its staying hot only by circulation pump, the pipes coming after the pump feel luke warm at best. bt when u shut off the system the pipe get hot. very strange. is this a regulator issue? not enough water in system from when i drained to replace prv? i have 1 pump and looks to be 2 drain spigots. any advice is def needed before i call this hvac guy to come back out. he serviced and didnt tell me anything was bad except prv which i changed myself. i tested prv and thats working fine when i open. i should add i have the older style regulator bt seems like its letting water in w no leaks and the expansion tank seems good. my pressure gauge i was told is faulty and dont know how to replace that. i like to diy and save money when i can bt dont want to cause more issues.
Great video. New sub. I have a similar gas boiler and my expansion tank has a small purge valve that goes above the tank. It is rusty and I am afraid it will fail this winter. It looks like I can unscrew it by hand but until now I wasnt really sure if I had to drain the boiler. Will give that a try this weekend. Thx again.
My hot water boiler for a two story residential house always runs at a pressure of approximately 27-28 PSI at 180°. When cold it's at 16psi. Expansion tank is good. If I adjust water feed pressure regulator valve by turning to the left to lower pressure do I do it when boiler is cold? I turned approximately one full turn when boiler was cold but did not see pressure gauge move. Your help is appreciated.
Question: When you open the quick fill lever on the pressure reducing valve and fill the system to way more than the normal operating pressure of 12-15 psi and then close it back to the auto feed position, how do you get the system pressure back down to 12-15 psi?
Hey Bud I was watching a official video from the manufacturer of watts or taco expansion tanks he said the pressure comes recharged at 12 psi which I knew but said the pressure of the tank had to be adjusted to the pressure of the house it’s installed in like if it’s 55 psi at the outside hose bib the tank has to be 55 psi too. I never knew that I thought like you it should match the feed valve. I’m all confused now please help.
The xtank must match the system pressure. Your system pressure is dictated by the feed valve. The feed will step the city pressure down to whatever it is set at...usually around 12 lbs. Your house water pressure from the city/ main has no effect on your system pressure since it is regulated by the feed valve. Hope this helps
I realize this question is a year old, but in case anyone is wondering: you match your city water pressure when installing an expansion tank on a stand alone hot water heater. It is a different tank, called a potable water expansion tank. In the past expansion from hot water heaters would push back out the water main, but at some point check valves became standard at water meters, hence the need for an expansion tank.
Are those feeder valves universal. Can I use it on an oil heating system. I currently have Conbraco water feeder that’s failing now. This one your using looks more heavy duty.
Looks like that taco feed valve is cast iron and in contact with your potable water supply line, you may want to install a backflo preventer between the cold water inlet and taco feed valve.
4 года назад+1
great video! if I have isolation shutoff valves on either side of the auto feed valve, do I need to drain/purge the system or zones when I turn it back on?
Hey, your videos are extremely helpful and to the point. I live somewhere with very hard water. Should I try to get the scale out of the system when I purge it? If so how? Is there any chance breaking up the scale will just cause more problems? Thanks.
You can put additives in the loop to help clean the system. Usually you let it circulate for a x amount of time then dump the system to clean it out, then refill
Vinegar circulated through the loop should remove hard water deposits. There should be plenty of videos on RUclips if you search for boiler and vinegar or scale.
Can you pressurize the expansion tank after you remove all the water and mount it back in place ? can you use a electric air pump that has a gage on it?
I have a question. I have three boilers in my basement (it's a triplex home). I just replaced the expansion tank on one of the boilers because the relief valve was leaking (replaced relief valve earlier since I thought that was the initial problem but decided to do expansion tank as well). Now, there's no more leakage, however I keep hearing water noise same as the noise in your video (I assume that it's continuously supplying water), is the noise normal? I am asking because there's no such noise in the other two boilers. All three systems were installed back in 2009 so I am thinking it's about time I replace the other two expansion tanks as well (assuming I didn't break anything on boiler1)?
I'll add that expansion tank1 is attached to a fitting (which sort of has a valve inside the fitting). I removed the fitting and noticed that the valve was snapped, perhaps it's due to a fatigue failure. It must have been an automatic valve or something that opens up automatically to let water circulate from air scoop to the expansion tank. Now, I couldn't find any fitting exactly like that at the store so I put the old fitting back on (without the valve inside since it's broken anyways). The difference now is that the loop between air scoop and expansion tank is always open at the air scoop level. For all I know the system was probably always close (or barely open) since automatic valve in the fitting wasn't operating. Maybe that's why there was too much water pressure in the system and relief valve was constantly opening every now and then. Now there's no more leakage and pressure doesn't seem to be above the the operating range either.
As for boiler2, there's just a little bit of leaking every now and then (not enough to bother me like in the case of boiler 1). And as for boiler3, no leakage at all. All I will say is that maybe there's a bit of fluctuation in apartment connected to boiler2 (now I am thinking it's probably expansion tank/ air scoop problem since I can't hear water flowing in boiler2 either. Same thing goes for boiler 3 even though there's no leakage.
Hi there. I have a single circulator and 5 taco zone valves. If I shut the purge valves at the return and shut off all thermostats can I use the zone valves to isolate the boiler to change out the expansion tank and relief valve instead of draining the entire system?
Thank you so much for the very quick reply. Your video was so helpful. I’ll just go ahead and drain down all the zones. One last question: any tricks to unscrew the expansion tank if the threads look pretty rusted and crusty where it screws into the fitting?
Ideally on the supply near the xtank and air separator. The system in this video is setup and piped like crap unfortunately. I’m married to it until the day I replace everything.
So if I’m reading your video correctly, the reason you needed to drain your boiler was because there’s no shutoff valve to isolate the expansion tank? Why not install a valve?
So I went ahead and called a plumber to install my tank, and they pointed out that the shutoff valve for my tank has a bleed valve on it so you can isolate the tank, then relieve the pressure in the tank before you remove it.
Great video! Did you ever see a huge black metal expansion tank the size of a wine barrel that was literally strapped with metal straps into the basement ceiling rafters? It’s massive, and I seriously think like 80 years old. The expansion tank wasn’t, for some reason, replaced when my furnace was 8-10 years ago.
Lori Lyn Yes, I’ve seen that before. How big is the house and what type of system? I personally would have replaced it when the system was changed out. I have a tank like that in one of my commercial buildings. It start leaking and we had to abandon in place because there was no way to remove it.
zimsjeep i have a Weil McClain CGa Gold boiler. My house has a basement and two floors above it. I just got off the phone with a plumber now because I just went downstairs to find an inch of water in the bucket under my relief valve. So that situation isn’t getting any better. Oh Lord, you had to leave that big tank in the ceiling? Did you drain it then? I’m hoping even though it’s a high of like 18 degrees F here today, that I can get him to do the work (expansion tank, replace relief valve) today anyway. It’s really worrying me now.
zimsjeep although my pressure is holding steady at 20 psi, which I’ve been told is normal? I can’t understand why the valve would be leaking then? If the pressure isn’t going too high?
Lori Lyn Once an old pressure relief valve opens up, it usually will never reseal or work correctly again. Between 12 -20 psi is considered normal pressure. It may spike a little when the system is running. The relief valve pops off at 30 psi. I’d change the relief valve, expansion tank, and fill valve all at the same time because your problem could be 1 or all 3. The system will be drained so it’s a good time to get it all done. I’m out in eastern Long Island, not really close by. As far as that old xtank I abandoned in place, it had a maze of pipes under it which is why I couldn’t remove. I’m sure yours will probably be a little more accessible in a house. I’d definitely get this fixed sooner rather then later. If that relief valve opens and doesn’t close, you’ll have a real mess on your hands.
Hey Buddy. Just to clarify after watching. To replace my expansion tank and fill valve which are both on my 1st floor zone, I shut the return into boiler foe that zone and empty boiler foe that zone only?
Nice description. We just had the expansion tank replaced and was charged $688. I could not believe the cost!!! I could have replaced it myself after watching your video. I feel like we got ripped off.
Update: I called about this charge and was told it was a mistake. The charge was supposed to be $252, so the company gave us a credit for the difference. It pays to ask.
My expansion tank is starting to drip ,just before it there is a inline shutoff. I believe to replace it all I have to do is shut the supply off drain the water heater,and swap the tank out ? And kill the power to the furnace..
GOT MY TANK AT LOWES and notice it says "hot water heater expansion tank. nothing about "boiler" in the direction but comes charged to 15 PSI, and up to 200 degrees "F". Can I use it for my boiler?
Man, I just replaced a 15 psi Watt regulator valve, bled the system and an hour later the meter went from the 15 up to 40 psi. I just shut the supply lines down and don't know what to do. Any ideas?
@@fixitwithzim My expansion tank on my boiler has a blue like cover on the valve underneath the tank so is the tank in your link the correct that need to get or it this the tank I need? www.homedepot.com/p/Amtrol-No-30-Expansion-Tank-for-Hydronic-Boiler-EX-30/202268962
this is a little confusing. are you changing the expansion tank on the boiler or the hot water tank? the pressure will be different for each. the hot water one needs to be the same pressure as the house. (checked at outside water bib or washing machine) the boiler one should match the boiler system. which is a closed loop system.
Really enjoy your videos..My boiler pressure was up, has a ball valve isolating my tank, closed valve bled tank and removed installed new tank. Pressure still high in boiler even after isolating boiler feed valve and removing some water from system like I was bleeding zones.Think my feed valve is bad or was I removing water the wrong way? BTW thought I recognized your accent..Bellport here..
Why don't you use the brass fittings on water feed line instead of black nipples. Whenever I open these fittings they are mostly corroded and clogged with rust. It is safe to use copper or brass fittings.
Expansion Tank: amzn.to/2SP1JZ7
Boiler Feed Valve: amzn.to/2M7jErr
Pipe Dope: amzn.to/2D4MV3p
Pipe Wrench: amzn.to/2VQeox8
Cannot thank you enough! Remove air following your instructions in your other video. End up here because same reason need to replace the extension tank, etc… Your instructions are THE BEST in RUclips! Subscribed and saved your video for future reference! Will look at all you other videos see what else you teaching! You are a great teacher!
Excellent instructions. I just replaced 22 years old fill valve and 10 years old expansion tank on my heating system. Thank you for sharing your expertise !🔧👍
I don't know why people don't put a valve in between the tank and the system. You won't need to drain the system when you remove the tank. If the tank is full of water, put a bucket under it drill a hole in the tank and let it pour into the bucket. You're overdoing the pipe dope. Teflon tape is all you need. Nice video.
The code in NY does not allow a ball valve going to the expansion tank in case you forget to turn it back on. I put one on mine anyway to make replacement much easier, and I put a reminder tag on it
I just take off the handle
Fuck that, I put a ball valve as well. 🍁
Thanks, so much! I’ve done a lot of DIY stuff over the years, but never had hot water heat. I was a bit afraid of this, but your video was excellent!
Thank you! It’s pretty easy stuff once you realize how it all works
Thank you for this video. I was able to do the same job at home. Very well explained. Nothing like other videos I saw even when explained by people in the feel. Thank you. And the money I saved. God blessed
I just watched your other video on purging air and was left wondering how in the world do you drain the system. I also needed to replace my expansion tank. Thank you for this video!!
Thanks for the video. I clicked on this and could not believe what I hear; you and I sound exactly alike. I have had a few friends and family listen and they swear I made this video. They don’t believe me, they think this is me. And you do sound like me in every way. I will send you an example of one of my auto repair videos if you’d like. Anyway, I’m gonna go tackle this expansion tank and air scoop project.
Good luck with the project bud! Easy stuff once you get the hang of it!!
@@fixitwithzim Done. Easy, everything came apart so I didn’t even have to change the air scoop, I just replaced the valve on top. Other than a leak, the blotter in the tank was good. I was going to make a video but I just knocked it out since I have a million things going on.
Amazing video. Thorough and precise. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for the kind words
Awesome all around. No nonsense, thanks for the purge air video as well.
Very good job explaining what you are doing…nice using the KISS principle.
Thank you!!
The installation date Nov 2, 2013
I have been using my 50+-year-old hot water boiler system for over 8 years using 50% less natural gas to heat the hot water to heat the home that has cast iron radiators. When I first purchased the house, it had a pump moving water at 35 gallons per minute at 8 PSI. Today and for the last six years, the pump that was replaced back then is now moving water at 45 gallons per minute at 45 psi. Boiler specialists that went to college to be taught box education disagree with my concept that does work. Heating and cooling individuals are totally wrong in their understanding of using fire efficiently. Let me explain it in an elementary way. On a natural gas stovetop if you turn the flame on high and the flame wraps around the pan and the flame is blazing into the air and not heating the pan you are wasting natural gas or propane gas to fire. The next thing they will tell me it will take longer to heat the pan. Wrong again if you take that same amount of water and you put it in a larger diameter pan with the same amount of water and spread the flames out equally across the larger surface you are capturing the fire that is heating the pan that is the heat exchanger that will heat the water faster. In my boiler system, the three small pilot lights for the boiler were turned down and the 8 large burner jets in the cast-iron boiler were turned down allowing the flame to heat the cast iron 50-year-old plus boiler system heating the water instead of heating the air going out the chimney. Once you achieve that savings by turning down the boiler system you need to add a hot water tank to heat water on the input side of the boiler as a reserve that when the water returns from the house some of it goes through the hot water tank and the rest of the water continues to the boiler as is. When the water is returning, and it is close to the hot water tank and the boiler some of it goes to the boiler and some of it goes to the hot water tank that is plumbed into the return pump that blends the return water from the house and the hot water from the hot water tank on the input side of the pump. Once they blend the returning water from the house and the water that went through the hot water tank then it goes into the actual boiler and gets reheated again and speeds through the plumbing to all the cast iron radiators in the home 45 gallons a minute at 45 psi. You have to know how to adjust the hot water helper tank according to the outside temperature so it does not come on every time the boiler comes on the heat the water in the house because you are defeating the purpose because now you would be using two flames reducing the energy efficiency that you are trying to save. When the temperature outside is over 35°F the hot water tank needs to run below the hot water hot temperature setting that says hot water. When the temperature outside is 15°F to 30°F then you will raise the hot water tank temperature to the hot water setting marked hot water. You have to stand next to the hot water tank during the cycle period to make sure the hot water tank is not running continuously when you are using the hot water tank as a helper. The warmer the temperature is outside the cooler the return water will be traveling back to the heat source to be heated allowing you to turn down the hot water tank, so it does not come on when the return water is returning and some of it is going in the hot water tank as the helper. The helper hot water tank is not to be used as your main hot water source. Once you master your hot water tank to the outside temperature and the return water temperature from the home you will be using only your boiler system gas that was turned down by 50% for your savings of heating the home or business. Let me emphasize again the warmer the temperature is outside the cooler you run your hot water helper tank. The cooler it is outside the warmer you run your hot water tank because the return water will be returning to the tank on the return side much hotter matching your hot water tank setting on the hot water tank. Once you do it for the first time and you measure your return hot water temperature you will fully understand that hot water is a hot water energy bank of energy stored to help heat the home and for assisting the boiler.
When it comes to a forced-air furnace that will be in a new description later that I will show how to work that system with the exhaust gas motor fan speed and the amount of natural gas being used in the heat exchanger and the speed of the home circulation fan all working together differently from what the manufacturer requires. Remember everything was designed to use more fuel than what is needed due to the flame size, heat exchanger size, and moving the heat with the circulation fan.
****My system set up****
Nov 2, 2013
We just Made public the 2 videos again of the installation date of the 45 gallons per minute and 45 psi pump setup boiler system set up flow rate of natural gas being used.
ruclips.net/video/-6OXglr9vzY/видео.html
Showing the reduction of Natural gas flow on the boiler system.
ruclips.net/video/0gRnTyiC-g0/видео.html
---------------------------------------------------------------------
This link is someone converting their forced air furnace into a forced-air hot water heating system.
ruclips.net/video/M6Ud1-SHHK0/видео.html
This link will reaffirm my concept is not fantasy but fact.
ruclips.net/user/results...
Second link
www.google.com/search?q=hot+water+forced+air+furnace&sxsrf=AOaemvJ0QgkYgolZLAH4wtX53JOv8TlkOw:1641528593453&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwiSy83F4p71AhVL6RoKHRi1CnEQ_AUoA3oECAIQBQ&biw=1529&bih=511&dpr=2.25
Might as well have a mirror heating your water on a storage tank on the roof of your home and run it nearly free if designed right
Nice job--clear and concise. Thank you!
Very helpful video. I have a question about the pressures you mentioned. I bought a new expansion tank and it has a setting of 40psig from the factory.
Should I drop the pressure to 12psig?
Good and concise. thanks. My boiler doesn't have a float check value (2:03) . What should I watch out for if I want to drain boiler from bottom of unit.
Great! Straight forward. Thank you so much.
Thank you!!
Aside from initial installation time/cost, what's the advantage of bladder type expansion tanks over the "old" style metal tanks that almost never break down or cause problems? Depending upon your source water quality, the rubber in the bladder will naturally degrade by about 1psi per year, and will also start to allow gasses to permeate the rubber and obviate the bladder's purpose, hence the need to replace them.
Awesome video, straight to the point 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
Thank you, your video is helpful.
Great, happy to hear you liked it!
Thanks for the tips, very informative.
Hi, thanx for the video.
I’m getting purge valve blowoff when the system heats up. I had this about 5 years ago so I replaced the expansion tank and it was all better. Now it’s doing it again. I thought that was an awfully short life for the tank. I pressed the Schrader valve at the bottom expecting water to come out, but it was air. Doesn’t that mean the tank is still good? I also replaced the combo fill/purge valve at about the same time. Thanx again.
love your vids. newbies like myself are less afraid after watching. i have issue where my baseboard are cold. i just replaced prv and im not sure why. system fires up by feels like its staying hot only by circulation pump, the pipes coming after the pump feel luke warm at best. bt when u shut off the system the pipe get hot. very strange. is this a regulator issue? not enough water in system from when i drained to replace prv? i have 1 pump and looks to be 2 drain spigots. any advice is def needed before i call this hvac guy to come back out. he serviced and didnt tell me anything was bad except prv which i changed myself. i tested prv and thats working fine when i open. i should add i have the older style regulator bt seems like its letting water in w no leaks and the expansion tank seems good. my pressure gauge i was told is faulty and dont know how to replace that. i like to diy and save money when i can bt dont want to cause more issues.
Good job. Great video your super clear with out any extra bs. = )
Great video. New sub. I have a similar gas boiler and my expansion tank has a small purge valve that goes above the tank. It is rusty and I am afraid it will fail this winter. It looks like I can unscrew it by hand but until now I wasnt really sure if I had to drain the boiler. Will give that a try this weekend. Thx again.
Sorry for the late reply, hope the repair went well.
@@fixitwithzim no problem.. I ended up leaving it as is for now 🤞.
Great job, thanks!
Thank you!!
My hot water boiler for a two story residential house always runs at a pressure of approximately 27-28 PSI at 180°. When cold it's at 16psi. Expansion tank is good. If I adjust water feed pressure regulator valve by turning to the left to lower pressure do I do it when boiler is cold? I turned approximately one full turn when boiler was cold but did not see pressure gauge move. Your help is appreciated.
Question: When you open the quick fill lever on the pressure reducing valve and fill the system to way more than the normal operating pressure of 12-15 psi and then close it back to the auto feed position, how do you get the system pressure back down to 12-15 psi?
Hey Bud I was watching a official video from the manufacturer of watts or taco expansion tanks he said the pressure comes recharged at 12 psi which I knew but said the pressure of the tank had to be adjusted to the pressure of the house it’s installed in like if it’s 55 psi at the outside hose bib the tank has to be 55 psi too. I never knew that I thought like you it should match the feed valve. I’m all confused now please help.
The xtank must match the system pressure. Your system pressure is dictated by the feed valve. The feed will step the city pressure down to whatever it is set at...usually around 12 lbs. Your house water pressure from the city/ main has no effect on your system pressure since it is regulated by the feed valve. Hope this helps
I realize this question is a year old, but in case anyone is wondering: you match your city water pressure when installing an expansion tank on a stand alone hot water heater. It is a different tank, called a potable water expansion tank. In the past expansion from hot water heaters would push back out the water main, but at some point check valves became standard at water meters, hence the need for an expansion tank.
Are those feeder valves universal. Can I use it on an oil heating system. I currently have Conbraco water feeder that’s failing now. This one your using looks more heavy duty.
Yes, just make sure you set the correct operating psi for your system.
Looks like that taco feed valve is cast iron and in contact with your potable water supply line, you may want to install a backflo preventer between the cold water inlet and taco feed valve.
great video! if I have isolation shutoff valves on either side of the auto feed valve, do I need to drain/purge the system or zones when I turn it back on?
i have the same question did you figure it out?
Great video!
Hey, your videos are extremely helpful and to the point. I live somewhere with very hard water. Should I try to get the scale out of the system when I purge it? If so how? Is there any chance breaking up the scale will just cause more problems? Thanks.
You can put additives in the loop to help clean the system. Usually you let it circulate for a x amount of time then dump the system to clean it out, then refill
Vinegar circulated through the loop should remove hard water deposits. There should be plenty of videos on RUclips if you search for boiler and vinegar or scale.
@@j10001 thanks for the tip. I have used that before to descale a boiler coil.
Can you pressurize the expansion tank after you remove all the water and mount it back in place ? can you use a electric air pump that has a gage on it?
You would want to pressurize it before filling the system but it can be done after as well. A bicycle pump should do the trick.
I have a question. I have three boilers in my basement (it's a triplex home). I just replaced the expansion tank on one of the boilers because the relief valve was leaking (replaced relief valve earlier since I thought that was the initial problem but decided to do expansion tank as well). Now, there's no more leakage, however I keep hearing water noise same as the noise in your video (I assume that it's continuously supplying water), is the noise normal? I am asking because there's no such noise in the other two boilers. All three systems were installed back in 2009 so I am thinking it's about time I replace the other two expansion tanks as well (assuming I didn't break anything on boiler1)?
I'll add that expansion tank1 is attached to a fitting (which sort of has a valve inside the fitting). I removed the fitting and noticed that the valve was snapped, perhaps it's due to a fatigue failure. It must have been an automatic valve or something that opens up automatically to let water circulate from air scoop to the expansion tank. Now, I couldn't find any fitting exactly like that at the store so I put the old fitting back on (without the valve inside since it's broken anyways). The difference now is that the loop between air scoop and expansion tank is always open at the air scoop level. For all I know the system was probably always close (or barely open) since automatic valve in the fitting wasn't operating. Maybe that's why there was too much water pressure in the system and relief valve was constantly opening every now and then. Now there's no more leakage and pressure doesn't seem to be above the the operating range either.
As for boiler2, there's just a little bit of leaking every now and then (not enough to bother me like in the case of boiler 1). And as for boiler3, no leakage at all. All I will say is that maybe there's a bit of fluctuation in apartment connected to boiler2 (now I am thinking it's probably expansion tank/ air scoop problem since I can't hear water flowing in boiler2 either. Same thing goes for boiler 3 even though there's no leakage.
Thanks for the tips. Saved $$$.
hi if u don't have a hot water heater . can u just change the tank?
Hi there. I have a single circulator and 5 taco zone valves. If I shut the purge valves at the return and shut off all thermostats can I use the zone valves to isolate the boiler to change out the expansion tank and relief valve instead of draining the entire system?
Turn off the makeup water also, it might work but you’ll need to bleed the system anyway. You might has well just do it right and drain it down
Thank you so much for the very quick reply. Your video was so helpful. I’ll just go ahead and drain down all the zones. One last question: any tricks to unscrew the expansion tank if the threads look pretty rusted and crusty where it screws into the fitting?
Do you recommend running the auto feed on the supply or return
Ideally on the supply near the xtank and air separator. The system in this video is setup and piped like crap unfortunately. I’m married to it until the day I replace everything.
@@fixitwithzim thank you I am doing my first ng boiler and had it almost done then heard should be by supply lol
Where do l put an expansion tank on my dunkirk water heater
What about the pressure in the expansion tank was it set to the right pressure?
12psi is good for 2 story house
Excellent Video
Thank you very much!
So if I’m reading your video correctly, the reason you needed to drain your boiler was because there’s no shutoff valve to isolate the expansion tank? Why not install a valve?
So I went ahead and called a plumber to install my tank, and they pointed out that the shutoff valve for my tank has a bleed valve on it so you can isolate the tank, then relieve the pressure in the tank before you remove it.
Great video! Did you ever see a huge black metal expansion tank the size of a wine barrel that was literally strapped with metal straps into the basement ceiling rafters? It’s massive, and I seriously think like 80 years old. The expansion tank wasn’t, for some reason, replaced when my furnace was 8-10 years ago.
Lori Lyn Yes, I’ve seen that before. How big is the house and what type of system? I personally would have replaced it when the system was changed out. I have a tank like that in one of my commercial buildings. It start leaking and we had to abandon in place because there was no way to remove it.
zimsjeep i have a Weil McClain CGa Gold boiler. My house has a basement and two floors above it. I just got off the phone with a plumber now because I just went downstairs to find an inch of water in the bucket under my relief valve. So that situation isn’t getting any better. Oh Lord, you had to leave that big tank in the ceiling? Did you drain it then? I’m hoping even though it’s a high of like 18 degrees F here today, that I can get him to do the work (expansion tank, replace relief valve) today anyway. It’s really worrying me now.
zimsjeep although my pressure is holding steady at 20 psi, which I’ve been told is normal? I can’t understand why the valve would be leaking then? If the pressure isn’t going too high?
zimsjeep you wouldn’t be anywhere close to Pittsburgh, PA, would you? I’m having a heck of a time finding a really good boiler guy around here.
Lori Lyn Once an old pressure relief valve opens up, it usually will never reseal or work correctly again. Between 12 -20 psi is considered normal pressure. It may spike a little when the system is running. The relief valve pops off at 30 psi. I’d change the relief valve, expansion tank, and fill valve all at the same time because your problem could be 1 or all 3. The system will be drained so it’s a good time to get it all done. I’m out in eastern Long Island, not really close by. As far as that old xtank I abandoned in place, it had a maze of pipes under it which is why I couldn’t remove. I’m sure yours will probably be a little more accessible in a house. I’d definitely get this fixed sooner rather then later. If that relief valve opens and doesn’t close, you’ll have a real mess on your hands.
Hey Buddy. Just to clarify after watching. To replace my expansion tank and fill valve which are both on my 1st floor zone, I shut the return into boiler foe that zone and empty boiler foe
that zone only?
You would need to drain the entire system to swap out these parts as they should serve you’re entire system
@@fixitwithzim thx.
Nice description. We just had the expansion tank replaced and was charged $688. I could not believe the cost!!! I could have replaced it myself after watching your video. I feel like we got ripped off.
1à see a was qq
Update: I called about this charge and was told it was a mistake. The charge was supposed to be $252, so the company gave us a credit for the difference. It pays to ask.
My expansion tank is starting to drip ,just before it there is a inline shutoff. I believe to replace it all I have to do is shut the supply off drain the water heater,and swap the tank out ? And kill the power to the furnace..
GOT MY TANK AT LOWES and notice it says "hot water heater expansion tank. nothing about "boiler" in the direction but comes charged to 15 PSI, and up to 200 degrees "F". Can I use it for my boiler?
How many gallons is it?
@@fixitwithzim It's 5 gallons .
New sub, btw, great video content.
Lori Lyn Thanks! Appreciate it 👍🏻
Man, I just replaced a 15 psi Watt regulator valve, bled the system and an hour later the meter went from the 15 up to 40 psi. I just shut the supply lines down and don't know what to do. Any ideas?
Make sure you don’t have it set to fast fill
mine says Model 30 for expansion control in hydronic heating and chilled water system
You’ll want to match your existing tank if possible.
Could you post the link of the labeller..?
There’s a link in the video description.
Can I change the Expansion Tank without having to drain my system? Can I just unscrew the old one and re screw on the new one?
Not unless you have an isolation valve for the tank. You’ll need to drain, install, then bleed the system.
@@fixitwithzim My expansion tank on my boiler has a blue like cover on the valve underneath the tank so is the tank in your link the correct that need to get or it this the tank I need? www.homedepot.com/p/Amtrol-No-30-Expansion-Tank-for-Hydronic-Boiler-EX-30/202268962
this is a little confusing. are you changing the expansion tank on the boiler or the hot water tank? the pressure will be different for each. the hot water one needs to be the same pressure as the house. (checked at outside water bib or washing machine) the boiler one should match the boiler system. which is a closed loop system.
Hey, did you watch the video? I clearly show working on the boiler throughout. Hope this helps and have a great day!
love the label how was it done ??
I put a link in the video description to the label maker I use...highly recommend. Use the 3/4" labels for it.
You are the .best
Do you take phone calls for support?
How Long should a boiler Feed Valve Last?
It’s one of those things that you don’t wait for it to fail, if you get 8+ years out of it, you did good
Other than the fill valve leaking, why would you need to change these
Preventative Maintenance. Replace them before they break and cause an issue
I didn’t know that those expansion tanks could last 20 years. Must be a good brand.
I got lucky with this one. Doesn’t always go that way.
More Megaloc!!!
Really enjoy your videos..My boiler pressure was up, has a ball valve isolating my tank, closed valve bled tank and removed installed new tank. Pressure still high in boiler even after isolating boiler feed valve and removing some water from system like I was bleeding zones.Think my feed valve is bad or was I removing water the wrong way? BTW thought I recognized your accent..Bellport here..
Yeah, fill valve probably bad, replace that and your problem should go away. I’m over in Centereach...thanks for taking to time to leave a comment!
Just had a plumber replace only the autofill valve (no expansion tank). Took him about 45 minutes. $620. I went into the wrong business.
Yup, it’s crazy what these guys charge but I’d probably do the same if people wanted to pay me!
Why don't you use the brass fittings on water feed line instead of black nipples. Whenever I open these fittings they are mostly corroded and clogged with rust. It is safe to use copper or brass fittings.
My expansion tank lasted 5 years