Start using Putty to fix your miniatures with this complete guide!!
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
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‘If you have enough lubricant and the right technique, you’re going to have a good time’ words to live by 🤣
Best advice anyone can get
George T'Kai entered the chat 'Oh my!"
No matter how basic, everyone one can take something away from these vids. I've been gaming, modelling, painting for forty years and I still learn something new. Top Banana, is what I say.
Thanks
More sculpting videos please Juan, Your early ones were brilliant, and I've not seen many like that on RUclips.
There is a reason why but I will try to make more
I wish youtube existed when I was starting out, it took years of trial, error and experimentation to learn what you shown in a 30 min video!!! Thank you :D
Happy to help!
Contenido fantastico, como siempre hermano! Useful and beautifully explained with some cheeky jokes thrown in, exactly why you've got 108k subs haha. Viva Balbao!
omg, im new to the hobby and i never used Greenstuff or Miliput cuz i dont know how to... and you Sir served a Perfect Tutorial for me! thank You so so much! lets get the Diorama started!
LET'S GO!!
Thanks for the reviews and tutorial. Specially liked that you explained the characteristics of the different putties.
This is an excellent demonstration. I've become quite fond of Apoxie Sculpt myself.
For me it had a better shelf life than Milliput being the same and comes in many colours to suit your needs. My main issue is that it's very hard to get here compared to Milliput so I always default to that, also it's WAY cheaper.
A very timely video, good Sir! I've just asembled a 75mm hard plastic model kit, which has a few little seamline gaps that need filling; had thought of using Milliput, as I have plenty of it on hand, but wasn't sure if it was the suitable medium, so your video has been ideal!
Normally I use Milliput when basing 28mm historical minis on 2p coins (minted after 1992, they are magnetic and cheaper than washers), which are initially superglued, then I roll out a small sauage of Milliput and add to the top of the coin base and smooth it over the 'pudding base' of the figure; this really helps to secure the mini to the coin base as well as allowing the base to be shaped or sculpted, if needed. If I end up with a little bit of Milliput left over, I shape it into small boulders, which can also be added to the base adding some extra 'fluff' to the whole aesthetic!
Thanks again for uploading this video 😉👍
Nice tip!
Gran vídeo juan! Otra ventaja de la mezcla de masilla verde y milliput es que puedes limarla gracias a las propiedades del milliput una vez curada y conservas parte de la elasticidad y resistencia de la verde, lo cual hace que sea menos probable que casque. Uso la mezcla para casi todo desde hace años aunque para moldes de piezas sobre todo, pero eso de poder limar después por si te has colado al no ser un maestro escultor está muy bien 😂😂
Si, yo soy más de verde pura pero entiendo pq a la gente le gusta la mezcla
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures porque controlas a tope 💪😁
Also store in seperate glass jars, Hobbycraft do some nice little ones. Keep what you arent using in the freezer
Best advice so far
Yo, this is incredible. Always have struggled with this portion of the hobby. Thanks for the amazing free content, Juan 🙏
Happy to help!
Top tip of the day number #1: Never go into a miniatures hobby shop in Spain and ask in English for 'Putty', particularly if it's a female shop assistant. I made that mistake and never again - it's 'masilla' in Spanish or you can ask for a brand name like 'Milliput'.
😅
LOL
Uff este comentario me ha pillado con la guardia baja 😂
What does it mean in Spanish? 😊
It's close to the word used for a sex worker
clay shaper is indeed amazing, made the mistake and bought one of those cheap set from amazon for sculpting stuff, all but the metal tools broke so faster.
the clay shaper i bought later is still good as new.
Exactly, buy a good one and you will only have to buy it once.
Great video, seasoned hobbiest here and learned most of this through trial and error but I still learned something new.
Thanks
useful tutorial！glad to learn the technique before starting my fw miniatures
Happy to help!
What a great topic Juan, thanks so much!
Happy to help!
I have had miliput for like 2 months now and only used it once and gave up. I 100% will be using it after this vid. It seems like you know what I want to do lol, power swords then your power sword vid comes out, I want some more speedpaints for my quicker DND work? Oh look a new vid about which speedpaints you love lol.
Happy to help!
Juan, you can avoid the oxidation of the epoxy freezing it. I have milliput normal and terracota, green stuff, feroca, magic sculpt, procreate, and supertite in the freeze on a tupper like the first day, and the middle age of all the putty it's more than ten years.
Alfonso Gozalo tells me the tip in a course.
I know, it's just that I didn't do it back in the day and made no sense to do it now.
Still an amazing tip
For seam lines I use Tipp-ex, drys qick then just sand down until flush.
Nice trick!!
It just has the same issue as the plastic slurry, if you can't sand the area, it's a mess. That being said I really didn't know that one and I will for sure give it a test!
Great thumbnail :)
See? I actually listen to you 😂
Deffo sharing this around. I never have fresh putty when i need it...
This sculpting series has been great! Any chance of a casting video using blue stuff/oyumaru?
I dunno if GW frowns on that kind of thing but it's kind of fun if you just need a few small extra bits.
To be honest I've NEVER done it 😂😂
I've always sculpted my own bits instead of copying them BUT I do think it's a great idea and I will start experimenting with it to make the best video possible.
Thanks!
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures No worries! I just like not having to hunt down the bits I need and it keeps my wife happy because it's cheap!
If you try it one tip I heard is that the green stuff and milliput combo is great for casting because the parts are the perfect balance of flexible and rigid. Have fun!
@speaktome4778 NICE!
Thanks for the tip!
Awesome! Love your tutorials
Thanks!
I saw somewhere else that keeping the yellow/blue of greenstuff in the freezer will keep it soft to use. Otherwise, as mine has, it tends to dry *just a bit*. It doesn't go bad and is still usable but it requires a bit more working together yo be green. Plus it has hard bits i need to cut out 😕
Great video! Did you get the green stuff in tape and then separate it into two containers?
No, I always get one that comes in a tube with both components separated.
i need to start sculpting
YES!!
Everyone should. I highly recommend Tom Mason's channel for a great series of tutorials in how to sculpt
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures Will check these out. Appreciate it.
Happy to promote a terribly underrated creator I love
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures i already followed him (heard of him from you)
UV resin works for me unless you want to sculp anyway. Filling small an big gaps with UV resin makes no difference and in case it spils or is not going well it still comes off as long it is not fully hardend after some time. For applying UV resin I use often toothpicks put a drop of it on the tipp and apply it to the gap. If it floats on the right spot, UV Light on, finish.
Another mint video bud xxx
Thanks
I can recommend air drying clay. Easy to smooth and if needed, easy to sand down. Works a lot like the yellow stuff here, and can be diluted with water and use as cementing paste. Plus it's very cheap for big quantity. Downside is of course that it takes time to dry, but actually dries really fast the thinner the layer.
Nice tip! Does it shrink? Because that's my main issue when I tried air drying clay
It doesn't really shrink no and I've been loving working with it myself. If it shrinks however just wait for it to dry and add a bit. But it hasn't been an issue for me :-). P.s If it dries too fast for your liking, just put a bit of water on it and it goes soft again. Or dip a finger in water and smoothen it like that after attaching it to the surface.
"Hello, fellow haters of the blue!" I think I understand it now! Before I could barely make out what you were saying, and the more Blue paints I use, the more I hate them.
Damned, the colour shapers I have are the GSW ones
It's not the end of the world but they are surprisingly bad compared to the real deal.
That being said, they are still usable.
love the video !
Thanks
Clay shapers. GSW do some red tip shapers that are extra hard. I find them really useful.
You can mix and match all the resin and hardeners of epoxy putties. I'll post a chart in the discord tomorrow
WOW
Mind blown!
Love to see that
Thanks for the extra 10% off the tee shirts Jaun.
Thanks for using my link! I genuinely love these t-shirts and I hope they sponsor me again in the future.
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures I even got free shipping.
Amazing!
Reposed my Rogal Dorn with a hobby saw and greenstuff.
NICE
Offtopic: Juan, el caballo sin barda de Bretonia (Warhorse) todavía va con peana de 25x50, tanto si es para caballería ligera como para una hechicera.
Lo sé! No está pegado, pero no tenía una peana de la medida correcta
Thank you for this great video.
What kind of sculpting material would you recommend to sculpt leather belts for a sword scabbard ?
I plan on using a chain link to make the buckle but how can I roll the putty without it sticking on my cutting mat ?
I read that you sometimes need to let green stuff rest so that it settles a bit but stays malleable ?
Lubrication is indeed the key to having good time :-)
PREACH
What about UV resin for gap filling? Seems like an amazing solution.
It's not bad but has the same issue as the plastic slurry, you need to sand it afterwards and that's not always a possibility
You've revealed the secret of the Tiranti SG, the closest tool I've found to the classic Wax #5. The Zahle 514 is another similar tool that's a lot more available than the Tiranti SG, but which doesn't quite have the same back end.
It's SO GOOD. Most versatile sculpting tool ever.
Very informative, as usual, Juan.
I really like your videos.
One question about using putty for basing with rolls for example : what kind of putty (or mix of) will you use ?
Ive tried Milliput + clay, for budget reasons, and the result is good but details aren't sharp.
Greenstuff is too expensive.
Thank you in advance for your answer :-)
My advice would be to use a mix of Greenstuff and Milliput as I think that mix has all the properties you want for that application.
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures Muchísimas gracias !
i just got milliput and a set of rubber tools and a set of metal tools
¿Has probado la masilla plástica de Vallejo?
La que viene en dropper? La odio, no me gusta nada.
You kinda have an Andalusian look. Putty is the best nice video.
Half my family comes from Jaen and I'm very proud of my ancestry
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures cool man I'm happy for you to have that connection. I'm American we have no defined ancestry and our culture is brain dead consumption. Wish I could live in the old world like you.
Have you ever mixed milliput with green stuff?
Yes and I do in the video too!
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures do you know what the difference is between thenother types of green stuff? Like brown stuff? Theres so many types...
Do you have a link for the containers you use for storing the greenstuff?
Sadly no, I can't even remember where I got them. They are about 20 years old probably
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures all good. I'm sure I'll find something similar
Basics, yes, but really useful.
Thanks
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures In case it helps anyone to find a tool with the same shape, they can be found under the name of dental wax carving tools.
What is your opinion on the Tamiya epoxy? Would it be similar to Milliput and Apoxie?
As far as I know it's excellent for filling small gaps but can't be diluted with water.
So sort of an in between of both putties showcased here
That green stuff looks way smoother and softer than the strips you normally find, anyone know where I could buy that?
A couple of details about GS that I should have included in the video:
All Greenstuff (with the exception of Chinese fakes) is made by the same company. That company goes by two different games depending on your location (US or Europe) but for me it's called SYLMASTA. The real name of the product is KNEADATITE DURO (or Kneadatite Blue/Yellow).
All the GS you see in shops branded as Army Painter, Greenstuff World or previously Citadel, all comes from the same place and it's the same. What makes GS different then? Well very simple: AGE
Greenstuff deteriorates with time, even unmixed and in separate containers. It slowly turns stiffer and less workable, obviously the one that comes in strips deteriorates faster due to it being joined and the chemical reaction between the two components slowly taking place.
I suggest people wanting to buy GS to do so through the MANUFACTURER and not through retailers. You can use the official website:
kneadatite.com
Hope that helps!
Q: I find that when I drop millput slurry into a seam, it typically underfills it (so the seam is less obvious but not fixed) unless I deliberately overpack with a millput sausage and then scrape + sand away the excess. Any suggestions? Possibly a problem with superfine white millput rather than standard?
My suggestion is to dry the moisture off and check how the seam looks and add a bit more of dryer putty if needed. Water can sometimes male it look fuller than it really is.
Another solution is to just use the putty without making it a slurry.
🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for your support and for some genuinely AMAZING t-shirts. Hopefully we can work together again in the future.
Can you recommend a good brand (Preferably available in UK) for metal sculpting tools? I can't find anything like what you have
Cool 🐎
Thanks
What about UV resin? That's really easy to apply and needs very little cleanup; if any at all.
I personally don't like UV resin. It's never worked for me well enough without sanding afterwards creating the same issue as the slurry and I also prefer not to deal with the toxicity associated to them.
I know the putties are not ideal either in that last regard but I guess because I'm used to them I don't find them as bad. I'm totally biased of course
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures Fair enough. I honestly haven't needed to do any of gap filling that much but I saw someone recently saying UV resin was amazing. I just wore a painter's mask when I tried it. I'll definitely get some Apoxy I reckon. Thanks Sensei.
I do 90% of sculpting with Milliput because it is not only water soluble, but you can also sand, file and scrape it very well when hardened. When subtracting after hardening there are more options for Milliput than with green stuff. For gap filling both is very good. Solving plastic for gap filling is the best if you live in the backend of the world and your next hobby store selling green stuff is 500 miles away.
Tl;dr will isopropyl destroy GS?
I bought a used metal forest dragon from WHFB.
Its well put together (yay), but the paintjob is terrible.
Can I soak it in isopropyl and then scrub it. Or will that damage the glue and/or greenstuff used to keep it together?
That's hard to say. Iso can't damage GS per se, but it can damage the glue and turn it into goo and thus no longer a "built" model.
Iso can also sip into the joint between putty and metal and separate the putty from it.
It's a roulette sadly.
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures thanks for the information!
I will just be thankfull that the paintlayers atleast seems relativley thin and thus I can paint right over it. Maybe some strategic scrubbing on say the wings.
Thank you for your knowledge.
Cuál se supone que es el error que has cometido con Milliput? Entiendo que se te ha solidificado un tanto, pero por tenerlo en un tarro de plástico?
Instead of getting Tamiya plastic cement which is ridiculously expensive for how much you get, get yourself a bottle of ethyl acetate or methylethylketone. Way cheaper and way better. In the US you can find them in hardware stores. In Europe might be a bit harder to get, but they're usually being sold by chemical labs, as their main use is chemical cleaning. I know many people prefer Tamiya for the bottles, but if you're lucky enough, your wife/gf/sister/daughter has lying around some nail polish bottles, which almost always come with a brush applicator. Clean them with IPA or any strong alcohol, and you can make your own sprue goo. Ideal for gluing pieces together, but true, not the best gap filler.
For comparison: 40ml Tamiya is around 4 bucks. A 1l ethyl acetate bottle is around 11 bucks. You do the math.
And to understand how powerful this stuff is, I accidentally glued the dry palette from Red Grass, to my bathroom sink in about 5 seconds using ethyl acetate. I mistook it for IPA, and as I was trying to clean the palette, used some liquid to try and clean, and it dripped a bit when I set it down on the sink. Once I realized what I actually did, I tried to pick up the palette. It was already melted and stuck to the sink.
BTW, not my discovery, but Goobertown Brent's. He's a chemist by trade, so he knows what he's talking about.
Благодарю, интересная информация
Спасибо
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures можно спросить,как вы разделили полоски Green stuff, просто разделив 2 полоски,и сложили в баночку?
@antonkalen5209 Я купил замазку, которая уже поставляется отдельно в двух цветах.
Но если вы покупаете его полосами, советую отделить его, выбросив область соединения, так как она затвердела и бесполезна.
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures благодарю,я сделаю также👍
Apoxie and milliput are also soluble in IPA... Which evaporates faster than water.... Great when you need multiple applications.
I should have watched the whole video before commenting lol. That said Nivea hand cream works much better as a lubricant than water on your tools...
It's true but there's a reason why I don't like and don't recommend people using Niveo or vaseline for that purpose.
Water as a lubricant has an advantage in that it just evaporates with time leaving no residue and thus making the layering of putty easy. If you use cream or vaseline you will have to wash your model before you can add more putty on top or paint it. I'm too lazy and impatient for that, so I've always used water instead even in my professional sculpting career
Been a while since done gap filling 🍆. Thanks for techniques Juan. I have that GW tool. Agree sprue glue is a nightmare.
Happy to help a buddy gap fill again
@@JuanHidalgoMiniaturesman you’re the best. 🫡
Someone else who hates sprue goo! I am not alone.
Never understood the hype. Putty is and always will be superior
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures I think it's appealing, because you don't have to mix it up every time. But in my experience it just makes a mess.
Waste beer on filling gaps? ARE YOU MAD???!!!
Beer makes everything better
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures Sure does!
I’m confused. Why not use UV resin for gap filling? Works great and super easy and quick?
Wow, did you really delete my post about sprue goo? Didn't realize you were one to censor your comments. Thats the kind of thing that costs you subscribers.
As I was saying in the deleted post, he is talking trash about sprue goo, but notice he doesn't have any to show you. No matter how much a hobbyist may dislike something they don't throw it away because we all know it may come in handy. We all know this.
Sure, you can gap flll with all the putties. But when you are gap filling the majority of models have gaps that go through detail. I am not a sculptor, so I end up having to sand the putty down even with the details, the same will be true for 90% of you. The other truth he won't tell you is gap filling with putty is a timely process. Even when you get it down pat it's still taking 10-20 minutes, initially it could take hours. Sprue goo takes a few minutes, tops. Then you just wait for it to cure, reapply if you need to, cure again, then sand. It is faster and easier than gap filling with putty regardless of skill.
Oh yeah, some putty likes to shrink when it dries, thus cracking and creating gaps. It can happen with any putty depending on the environment you are letting it dry in. Sprue goo doesn't crack.
Also, I have NEVER had my sprue goo warp or bend any part of any model I have ever used it with. Just doesn't happen if you use common sense and use the proper gap filling technique in the proper spot, which yes, sometimes means using putty and sprue goo on the same model.
Into the A.M., not Am. Think of it like a hobby nerd getting lost in his hobby deep into the night (well past midnight, so after p.m. and “into the a.m.”). Super helpful video on the different types of fillers and model sculpting enhancers!
I KNOW! The brand let me know I got the name wrong but they were chill about it and let me use the ad portion regardless.
Genuinely love that brand.