I bought the Durston agile C130 on your recommendation. Fantastic bit of kit and a real game changer for me. Not cheap but it'll last a lifetime. I've tried the cheap and nasty mills, yes they do work, in a fashion, but the Durston's....another league.
Mr Berry, thank you for all your videos. I started in jewelery making because I have rather large fingers (16-21 us) and got tired of hearing "we can't get it in your size ", I have had issue with rolling my own sheet silver, but with this film, I think I figured out where I've gone wrong. Again, thank you. I keep learning everything I watch your videos, keep them coming.
Thanks Andrew. I'm watching most of these films for the second time, as I didn't comment on the first watching. Which I think is the absolute minimum that I can do to thank you for all your help. Having the Q&A's on a Monday is great, in 2023, get a chance to catch up with everyone and contribute and give something back when possible. I've just got my first rolling mill. I couldn't afford a Durston, this first time, being a hobbyist, but your advice of "any rolling mill is better than no rolling mill", was excellent advice, and I can now do so much more than without it. All the best. Thanks again.
I just love the way Andrew explains absolutely everything, his thought processes laid bare, which means I understand the rationale and its locked into my head too, fab film thanks
Thank you for making this! For the past year I’ve been searching over RUclips for anything about how to make sheet silver and there’s nothing. I had to learn by trial and error as well as hit up some forums. Love the channel and keep up the awesome content Andrew!
Thanks Andrew once again for sage advice. I started yet again with a fresh 4 mm thick ingot (25 x 10 mm) In the hope of making 0.6-0.7 mm sheet. Whilst at 4 mm I could reduce the thickness to 3 mm (-25%) without any splaying of the silver, I found that once I went under 1 mm it became much more complicated. I finished up with 0.6 mm sheets/strips but I was annealing every 0.025 mm - 0.050 as the strips were springy after every pass. I'm delighted because every time Iv'e tried this in the past I failed miserably but with time and patience I nailed it. 5 lovely strips of 0.6 mm sheet on the bench without cracks all over them. I had nearly given up.
Awesome video! You confirmed a lot of the nuances I’ve discovered using the same exact rolling mill and process. It’s a lot of work but really satisfying to do this. As far as the issue of the ingot curling, I usually will anneal and hammer flat. Also cross roll at a 90* angle if the width allows.. or a 45* angle. If I catch the half round or square grooves a little bit, I back off the thickness bar so the impression isn’t as deep. As I continue rolling through the flat area, the grooves will work themselves out. Any marks left when I’m done with my ingot can be removed by sanding. You can cheat and get a slightly wider finished sheet doing this carefully. At this point I also just go by feel for how much to take it down each pass. You have to make so many passes it will drive you crazy trying to be exact each time. I never thought to throw the entire ingot in the pickle to dissolve the flux that gets stuck on it occasionally. Thank you for that tip! I love this mill so much, it was one of my first major investments and has paid for itself so many times, it has to be one of my most essential tools. It was nice watching this and seeing some of the same moments that made me pause and wonder “am I doing this right?” when I first got it.
The brown twister roll to deploy 🖕 to cover the beetle when I ran Satan when he was keep on changing the situations to cover the dog looking ip to the airport 😭😂
Agile C 130 is a little beast. I have from 2 mounths in my shop and is perfect. It worth every penny. The metal came out so perfect no needs to use file , ready for polish. i melt abought 25 gr and flat are Is enough space to work in.
Hi Andrew and all you others looking over his shoulder too. During the rolling, it is the time, when we also see small dimples where there are hidden air pockets inside the ingot. What have we (=I) done wrong during casting? I am using the Smith Little one with acetylene and oxygen. (propane is not available in this part of Borneo). I am using the multi orifice (rose bud) tip.
looking to buy one for the sheet making and silver rolling, what is the difference between Durston agile C130 and Durston Agile F130 Flat Rolling Mill. which one would you recommend?
I’ve been looking to get one of these machine. Do you think a 1.75hp electric version of this can roll that same size piece you used but in copper at .25mm at a time?
Thumbs up as always! It's so hard to decide on my first mill, pepe or durston? 🤔 Iknow you're a Durston man 😉 haha. I'd sayil I'll get a little combination one like you had here, would you say it's best to have the wire section to the side of the mill like your own down stairs? Or would the one like you used here be okay for most small shops n someone that's only Makin jewlery two years
Having extension rollers on the outside of the machine does make it a bit more expensive. It all comes down to cost in the end. If you are in the UK deff go with a Durston
@@Atthebench ohh I didn't know that the roller on the side would be more expensive so thank u, I will certainly keep that in mind now so. Iam in Ireland so I definitely hope to get a mid range durston. I was gonna buy a cheap Indian knock off but I know it wouldn't last of be near as good. So I appreciate the feedback as always Andrew and IL save a little bit more haha., all the best
I don't want sound like a noob, but when you melt down sterling silver to recast a sheet, is it still sterling, or has the composition changed ? Does it become more or less pure.
The Theory & Practice of Goldsmithing; Proff. Dr. Erhard Brepohl; pg. 156-159 discuss why (the physics) "...systematic heavy forging..." is necessary prior to rolling an ingot. However, this is information for gold, not specifically stated for fine/sterling silver. Perhaps there is a difference. I don't know that I completely understand his explanation, I've also thought it seemed a bit redundant to forge AND roll. Great video, wonderful to see the real process! Thank you. Oh, one more question, foes annealing create fire scale? Is it good to put a firescale (boric acid/alcohol) coat before annealing too?
So...if you have a narrow rolling mill, is it absolutely necessary to cut the piece to get a proper piece of sheet metal? Is it completely unadvised to make a log strip instead of a square? any more info on this would be great thank you.
Andrew, you say 16:30 'quench it in the safety pickle' and I thought students were taught to never quench in pickle, because the heat released from hot metal causes 'bad pickle fumes' to rise up, so to either pre-quench in water and then go into the pickle, or just air-cool a bit and then put it into the pickle. What are your thoughts about the 'previous info'?
In the days of sulphuric acid I quite agree with you. But I would let the ingot cool to a black heat before quenching so there are hardly any fumes given off.
In the days of sulphuric acid I quite agree with you. But I would let the ingot cool to a black heat before quenching so there are hardly any fumes given off.
@@Atthebench Ah, thank you for that clarification. I'm using Rio Pickle and I saw on the box "Warning! Contains Sodium Bisulfate. Releases Sulfuric Acid on contact with water" so with Rio Pickle, I guess it's not quite as safe as your safety pickle". Am I understanding or still mistaken??
I bought the Durston agile C130 on your recommendation. Fantastic bit of kit and a real game changer for me. Not cheap but it'll last a lifetime. I've tried the cheap and nasty mills, yes they do work, in a fashion, but the Durston's....another league.
Mr Berry, thank you for all your videos. I started in jewelery making because I have rather large fingers (16-21 us) and got tired of hearing "we can't get it in your size ", I have had issue with rolling my own sheet silver, but with this film, I think I figured out where I've gone wrong.
Again, thank you. I keep learning everything I watch your videos, keep them coming.
Thanks Andrew. I'm watching most of these films for the second time, as I didn't comment on the first watching. Which I think is the absolute minimum that I can do to thank you for all your help.
Having the Q&A's on a Monday is great, in 2023, get a chance to catch up with everyone and contribute and give something back when possible.
I've just got my first rolling mill. I couldn't afford a Durston, this first time, being a hobbyist, but your advice of "any rolling mill is better than no rolling mill", was excellent advice, and I can now do so much more than without it.
All the best. Thanks again.
I just love the way Andrew explains absolutely everything, his thought processes laid bare, which means I understand the rationale and its locked into my head too, fab film thanks
Am appreciating all your advice Andrew, thank you for your work.
Best video I've seen on how to roll out an ingot. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you for making this! For the past year I’ve been searching over RUclips for anything about how to make sheet silver and there’s nothing. I had to learn by trial and error as well as hit up some forums. Love the channel and keep up the awesome content Andrew!
A simple thank you
Yeah finally got there they use have just let me drink the iron bru 😭😂
Thanks Andrew once again for sage advice.
I started yet again with a fresh 4 mm thick ingot (25 x 10 mm) In the hope of making 0.6-0.7 mm sheet.
Whilst at 4 mm I could reduce the thickness to 3 mm (-25%) without any splaying of the silver, I found that once I went under 1 mm it became much more complicated. I finished up with 0.6 mm sheets/strips but I was annealing every 0.025 mm - 0.050 as the strips were springy after every pass.
I'm delighted because every time Iv'e tried this in the past I failed miserably but with time and patience I nailed it.
5 lovely strips of 0.6 mm sheet on the bench without cracks all over them.
I had nearly given up.
Love your channel, perfect explanations from beginner to daily basis tips. Thank you master.
Awesome video! You confirmed a lot of the nuances I’ve discovered using the same exact rolling mill and process. It’s a lot of work but really satisfying to do this.
As far as the issue of the ingot curling, I usually will anneal and hammer flat. Also cross roll at a 90* angle if the width allows.. or a 45* angle. If I catch the half round or square grooves a little bit, I back off the thickness bar so the impression isn’t as deep. As I continue rolling through the flat area, the grooves will work themselves out. Any marks left when I’m done with my ingot can be removed by sanding. You can cheat and get a slightly wider finished sheet doing this carefully.
At this point I also just go by feel for how much to take it down each pass. You have to make so many passes it will drive you crazy trying to be exact each time.
I never thought to throw the entire ingot in the pickle to dissolve the flux that gets stuck on it occasionally. Thank you for that tip!
I love this mill so much, it was one of my first major investments and has paid for itself so many times, it has to be one of my most essential tools. It was nice watching this and seeing some of the same moments that made me pause and wonder “am I doing this right?” when I first got it.
The brown twister roll to deploy 🖕 to cover the beetle when I ran Satan when he was keep on changing the situations to cover the dog looking ip to the airport 😭😂
Nicely done!
🙏 So helpful, thank you.
That’s a real beautiful mill.
Gear box makes sense.
My first mill is from Pepe tools.
Relocating but I’m hopeful to get a space to work in.
Excellent video iam just starting to learn everything it's a challenge 😅 making lots of mistakes so far but iam learning from them
Thanks Andrew!
Agile C 130 is a little beast. I have from 2 mounths in my shop and is perfect. It worth every penny. The metal came out so perfect no needs to use file , ready for polish. i melt abought 25 gr and flat are Is enough space to work in.
Another fab detailed excellent video. Just what I needed to know as I’ve made my first scrap ingot. K
Thanks. Good show
Epic video sir
well explained thank you
Ótimas explicações. Obrigado por compartilhar seus conhecimentos.
Hi Andrew and all you others looking over his shoulder too.
During the rolling, it is the time, when we also see small dimples where there are hidden air pockets inside the ingot. What have we (=I) done wrong during casting? I am using the Smith Little one with acetylene and oxygen. (propane is not available in this part of Borneo). I am using the multi orifice (rose bud) tip.
Andrew, do you have a video on your jewelry bench?LM looking for a smaller one to make.
looking to buy one for the sheet making and silver rolling, what is the difference between Durston agile C130 and
Durston Agile F130 Flat Rolling Mill. which one would you recommend?
I’ve been looking to get one of these machine. Do you think a 1.75hp electric version of this can roll that same size piece you used but in copper at .25mm at a time?
Can you please tell me more about the bath of acid for silver ?
That's for your time Sir
Thumbs up as always! It's so hard to decide on my first mill, pepe or durston? 🤔 Iknow you're a Durston man 😉 haha. I'd sayil I'll get a little combination one like you had here, would you say it's best to have the wire section to the side of the mill like your own down stairs? Or would the one like you used here be okay for most small shops n someone that's only Makin jewlery two years
Having extension rollers on the outside of the machine does make it a bit more expensive. It all comes down to cost in the end. If you are in the UK deff go with a Durston
@@Atthebench ohh I didn't know that the roller on the side would be more expensive so thank u, I will certainly keep that in mind now so. Iam in Ireland so I definitely hope to get a mid range durston. I was gonna buy a cheap Indian knock off but I know it wouldn't last of be near as good. So I appreciate the feedback as always Andrew and IL save a little bit more haha., all the best
I don't want sound like a noob, but when you melt down sterling silver to recast a sheet, is it still sterling, or has the composition changed ? Does it become more or less pure.
looks like a workout! :)
I have that mill. It makes it seem easy.
The Theory & Practice of Goldsmithing; Proff. Dr. Erhard Brepohl; pg. 156-159 discuss why (the physics) "...systematic heavy forging..." is necessary prior to rolling an ingot. However, this is information for gold, not specifically stated for fine/sterling silver. Perhaps there is a difference. I don't know that I completely understand his explanation, I've also thought it seemed a bit redundant to forge AND roll. Great video, wonderful to see the real process! Thank you. Oh, one more question, foes annealing create fire scale? Is it good to put a firescale (boric acid/alcohol) coat before annealing too?
@@jonasdowner THANK YOU! 😊
So...if you have a narrow rolling mill, is it absolutely necessary to cut the piece to get a proper piece of sheet metal? Is it completely unadvised to make a log strip instead of a square? any more info on this would be great thank you.
You can roll a long strip but you would have to use a mallet to straighten the sheet once you had annealed it
What model is the Sievert torch...??
Andrew, can the rolling mill be used with copper, such as pennies?
Yes it can roll copper no problem
I found one on amazon for 300$ think its ok to get?
Andrew, you say 16:30 'quench it in the safety pickle' and I thought students were taught to never quench in pickle, because the heat released from hot metal causes 'bad pickle fumes' to rise up, so to either pre-quench in water and then go into the pickle, or just air-cool a bit and then put it into the pickle. What are your thoughts about the 'previous info'?
In the days of sulphuric acid I quite agree with you. But I would let the ingot cool to a black heat before quenching so there are hardly any fumes given off.
In the days of sulphuric acid I quite agree with you. But I would let the ingot cool to a black heat before quenching so there are hardly any fumes given off.
@@Atthebench Ah, thank you for that clarification. I'm using Rio Pickle and I saw on the box "Warning! Contains Sodium Bisulfate. Releases Sulfuric Acid on contact with water" so with Rio Pickle, I guess it's not quite as safe as your safety pickle". Am I understanding or still mistaken??
I noticed you didn’t flux your metal before annealing. What about fire scale build up?
I don’t heat it up too hot. Only to a very dull red so I don’t get too much firescale
Never have fluxed the surface in 30 years of doing this
Andrew Berry okay thanks!
Wouldn’t 2/4’s of a millimeter be just 1/2?
Hi Andrew i was train to anneal two times rather then use a hammer that was 23 years ago.
Mow kellogs is ashort 😭
You can collect the dust and melt !
😊😗😗
Someone know how to correct the sheet when it is bended?
A mallet.. Raw hide on a nice flat Smooth surface.. Like an anvil.. Or put it through the mill side ways like he said here, cross roll it
When I anneal mine I just push it back in shape it bends real easy when its red hot.
Cross roll is the best way to ensure a perfectly flat surface
We need a video on rolling Square wire to sheet please!