The problem with not having reverse was a radio calibration issue. After moving all the sticks and switches to their maximum extents, the calibration says to move sticks to center and "throttle down". For a plane or copter that means you put the throttle all the way down, so that's what I had done. When I tried leaving the throttle in the middle instead (for this car that is zero throttle), I was able to use reverse. I think the text in that dialog could be more explanatory...
Yay! Well done that man. This Ardurover stuff could become quite addictive. I've already spent "a few hours or so" out of the last 24 wandering through the documentation. Not that I've become hooked or anything.......Not me........ No way ......um...... 😳
dunno if anyone gives a shit but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend these days =)
As usual nice work! Oh yay I made a guitar pick for my friend on my 3D printer. Plus a lot of nic-nacks and a couple nerf guns for the grandsons. Boy oh boy remember cheep ass series? Those were the EASY science days. KEEP IT UP!
The return path is turning (steering) wheels in opposite direction when returning, so the issue with non-linear and unequal steering will greatly affect the accuracy of following your path. Great job - I’ve got several rover parts I’m playing with at the moment so great to follow your progress :)
Good point, however after seeing the effect of my tuning on the second day, it was clear that the controller was not even using the full extent of the steering at all when it was weaving around in wide curves.
It may sound strange, but I wonder what do you do for leaving sometimes. I know you used to work as a software engineer, but do you still work with software for some company abroad? Or do you have some sort of passive income? I share lots of interests/hobbies with you, but seems to me you have a lot more time to put on those things.
Throw the diffential GPS on it, Although I suspect the rough terrain and short wheel stance and small wheel diameter will have a significant impact on accuracy
I have actually done this a couple of times already, but it's kinda buried in the middle of other videos, maybe try here: ruclips.net/video/pakAU6TRbm4/видео.htmlm19s See also: ardupilot.org/dev/docs/building-the-code.html
I like the omnibus boards, except the PRO version with the current sensor forced on the board. Wish developers would include just the SD version of the Omnibus, I'd like to use my own power supply and sensor boards instead of the impossible to modify ones that hard wired to the tiny piece.
Man, it's so great watching that little rover pottering around by itself. It helps that your location looks like another planet. I'm curious what you think of Robot Operating System navigation with liars or 3d cameras and the like. Seems pretty interesting for tinkering with software more than hardware.
Does rover have gyro stabilisation on the steering? I have a 50cc pocket quad frame I have converted to rc and with the power to weight ratio being so high without a person on it and coupled with it having a sold rear axle, the back end is lively to say the least lol. Till now, I have been using a heli gyro on the steering servo to help keep the back end in check. Does rover has the ability to perform the same function on its own? If it does not, I can still run the heli gyro on the servo in addition to the flight controller but I can't find an answer on what it does in the documentation. running a GPS setup on it would allows some and have fun lower speed auto missions :)
hi, could you have some information about the correct wiring of the ominbus. Where exactly are the steering and throttle connected? Thank you very much
Not a comment on the interesting vid but just wondering if you’ ve heard of the spanish guys from Erle, i have their pfx-mini lying around for more then a year now, wanting to build a rover but cant find the time. It’s a sweet little board, Pi Zero add-on, but it’s quite expensive, needs the newer JST GH connector etc. Getting into ROS was the interesting bit for me... but then time, time, my kingdom for some time... ;) [and a backyard like yours!]
Not played with Arduino except some silly minor stuff. But as you know the standard way of getting reverse to work with a stick transmitter is to program the esc for high, low and mid points in the throttle range. Usually setting FWD throttle to +1500 centre to 0 and reverse to -1500 works) How you program that in Arduino I have no idea. Most RC car ESC are technically reversing ESCs and there is are threads on the subject of these in the Arduino forum which I tried to work my way through but it's a bit advanced for my level of understanding. There's also one on braking somewhere but I can't find it. I'm sure it will be easy for you though.
This ESC has always worked in the way you describe without needed any settings changed (if it is even capable of being changed, it's a nasty $10 el-cheapo one). So unless ardurover is doing something clever on startup, the ESC should be still behaving that way. I think the problem is the "running model" setting, but the docs don't say where that setting should be made: ardupilot.org/rover/docs/rover-motor-and-servo-configuration.html#esc-configuration
ardurover may indeed have done something "clever" or at least unusual, And you are probably right about the "running model" setting The documentation doesn't seem terribly clear on the subject but from what little I can see in the docs I don't believe it is actually a setting in ardurover software. I believe it may be external to the software and a hardware setting. It may well be reset by a stick calibration in Ardurover set up or by programming the ESC directly or by going through a traditional throttle point set-up by re-binding the TX to the receiver and esc. _That probably is wrong but may be worth checking if for nothing else than to rule out one variable_
Yes that's normal, all ESCs do that. What you want is the ESC setting that sets some amount of braking at ~1500us. Ardurover mapping the throttle to a biased range is another issue I think. Edit: what ESC do you use?
But not the all ESC have this function. You need a crawler ESC. I found a cheap ESC with this function. hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-x-car-45a-brushed-car-esc.html not an advert, only for help. Banggod I think also have this ESC with a diff. brandname on it :)
The ESC I have is a cheapass $9 thing which I would be surprised if it lets you change any settings, I think it's this one: www.banggood.com/320A-Brushed-Speed-Controller-ESC-for-RC-Car-Truck-Boat-1-or-8-1-or-10-p-919886.html
Yes I still have the wheelchair, wondering what to do with it. On one hand it might make a good automated lawnmower, but it's also too heavy and powerful to leave unattended anywhere near fences, my car, house, anything I don't want broken. In order to make it truly useful as an autonomous rover it would need more safety features like sonar, lidar etc or even a physical sensor to avoid crushing whatever gets in its way, which I don't quite think I can be bothered with. I would still like to make a different frame for it, with four of those go-kart wheels since I have barely used my welder since I got it. But if I made that, what would I do with it other than just drive around for fun... :)
I like the follow code idea; ruclips.net/video/_g9SkK0IhRk/видео.html I think it'd be interesting to make an autonomous wagon that you could ride in. Then use the rockhopper as a scout to pilot from the main wagon, and whatever other scenarios could be thought of. I'm surprised nobody has done repeated path-based antenna range testing with an Ardurover. I'd like to try range extension by relaying control through NRF's or mesh WiFi with rovers as well. It could form the mobility platform of a radio and optics base that would drive itself to the top of a hill so you can bounce LOS radio links though it to obstructed air, and do long range plane missions while sitting inside... or at least on the far side of the hill. Just having a cargo wagon thing could be fun and useful, even if it just follows the bike around. I'd ensure it has some kind of payload modularity by design, cause it could carry quads, or a turret, or an arm, or have a dumping mechanism, or a seat, etc. I really want to do an ardu-boat I can ride in, but given where I am, doing something like an autonomous recumbent bike is probably more useful. There is an open source autonomous car project that might be adaptable to such a thing; github.com/commaai/openpilot
Thank you! You make excellent job with this Vids. Firs time I think this Omni board is not that what I want for the rover missions. But now I want to try it. Why do you use these boards and not APM 2.8? Only price? If you make a Vid about it, I think that would be a big help for us.
DON'T BUY A v2.1 OF THIS BOARD!!! As well as the problems mentioned in the video, I just discovered that when you bridge the little solder pads on the back to select full battery voltage for the camera/vtx power pins, you also get full battery power on the telemetry port, so I just blew up my radio modem. As well as that, the board keeps continuously rebooting after about 5 seconds when powered from battery (USB power does not cause reboots). Thankfully things returned to normal after un-bridging the solder pad, and the board itself was not damaged. But this means the camera/vtx power pins are useless if your camera or vtx needs more than 5V to run. I guess I should be thankful that it didn't blow up my GPS or receiver as well.... I think some stupid amateur was in charge of this circuit design, no wonder it was quickly superseded and is now hard to find - that's a good thing!!!
I don't think this cheap ESC lets you change anything, it has braking by default if you go from forward to reverse quickly without stopping at neutral. There is also a parameter in Mission Planner to say that you want braking, which is enabled by default. The docs mention the ability to choose a different ESC "running model", but do not say where the setting should be made: ardupilot.org/rover/docs/rover-motor-and-servo-configuration.html#esc-configuration
iforce2d interesting, I didn't realize they'd have braking built in to the firmware like that, but given the age of the project, that was probably pre braking capable ESCs. I haven't had a chance to mess with Ardurover yet, though I'd really like to, I have 4 wheel drive RC car in a project bin somewhere waiting for the conversion ;-) Hoping you get a chance to go back the wheel chair conversion too.
isnt because it think its a plane and cant make close turns so it have to prepare to make the turn... not experience in this gps mode and autopilot.. just a acro drone builder.
The rover and copter vehicle types are completely different firmware, so it knows it's not a plane. There are many different parameters, for example the ability to reverse, skid-steering capability for tank style vehicles, option to behave like a boat, a setting for a maximum sideways g-force not to exceed so that it doesn't tip over when turning etc. I think part of the problem I had is that it cannot know how effective the steering will be until it moves, and it cannot turn unless it moves, and since it doesn't move fast the GPS is not so useful as a measurement of heading, plus probably some more issues I'm missing...
The problem with not having reverse was a radio calibration issue. After moving all the sticks and switches to their maximum extents, the calibration says to move sticks to center and "throttle down". For a plane or copter that means you put the throttle all the way down, so that's what I had done. When I tried leaving the throttle in the middle instead (for this car that is zero throttle), I was able to use reverse. I think the text in that dialog could be more explanatory...
Yay! Well done that man. This Ardurover stuff could become quite addictive. I've already spent "a few hours or so" out of the last 24 wandering through the documentation. Not that I've become hooked or anything.......Not me........ No way ......um...... 😳
I need some help and guidance in making follow me Arduino car with GPS please about the components etc please ... thank you
dunno if anyone gives a shit but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend these days =)
@Micah Jameson Yea, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself =)
Well, I was setting up mine today and they still haven’t fixed that dialogue box!
As usual nice work!
Oh yay I made a guitar pick for my friend on my 3D printer. Plus a lot of nic-nacks and a couple nerf guns for the grandsons.
Boy oh boy remember cheep ass series? Those were the EASY science days. KEEP IT UP!
The return path is turning (steering) wheels in opposite direction when returning, so the issue with non-linear and unequal steering will greatly affect the accuracy of following your path. Great job - I’ve got several rover parts I’m playing with at the moment so great to follow your progress :)
Good point, however after seeing the effect of my tuning on the second day, it was clear that the controller was not even using the full extent of the steering at all when it was weaving around in wide curves.
That's pretty cool! I've been wanting to do something similar to this but I have several other projects that I need to get done first, lol.
It may sound strange, but I wonder what do you do for leaving sometimes. I know you used to work as a software engineer, but do you still work with software for some company abroad? Or do you have some sort of passive income? I share lots of interests/hobbies with you, but seems to me you have a lot more time to put on those things.
@Dan S Actually I work as a software developer, don't know where you got that idea :)
Throw the diffential GPS on it, Although I suspect the rough terrain and short wheel stance and small wheel diameter will have a significant impact on accuracy
maybe add some sensors like laser ones or ultrasonic to avoid obscatcles and add accelerometer to stabilize driving in straight line
Can you please make a guide how to compile your own firmware for f4 board?
I have actually done this a couple of times already, but it's kinda buried in the middle of other videos, maybe try here: ruclips.net/video/pakAU6TRbm4/видео.htmlm19s
See also: ardupilot.org/dev/docs/building-the-code.html
Cool set up brother! Liked this video!
I think the turning radius is responsible for first overshooting the path back to the sticks. It seemed to fix itself though.
I like the omnibus boards, except the PRO version with the current sensor forced on the board. Wish developers would include just the SD version of the Omnibus, I'd like to use my own power supply and sensor boards instead of the impossible to modify ones that hard wired to the tiny piece.
Man, it's so great watching that little rover pottering around by itself. It helps that your location looks like another planet.
I'm curious what you think of Robot Operating System navigation with liars or 3d cameras and the like. Seems pretty interesting for tinkering with software more than hardware.
Does rover have gyro stabilisation on the steering?
I have a 50cc pocket quad frame I have converted to rc and with the power to weight ratio being so high without a person on it and coupled with it having a sold rear axle, the back end is lively to say the least lol.
Till now, I have been using a heli gyro on the steering servo to help keep the back end in check.
Does rover has the ability to perform the same function on its own?
If it does not, I can still run the heli gyro on the servo in addition to the flight controller but I can't find an answer on what it does in the documentation.
running a GPS setup on it would allows some and have fun lower speed auto missions :)
The braking problem can be fixed with a crawler ESC.
hi, could you have some information about the correct wiring of the ominbus. Where exactly are the steering and throttle connected? Thank you very much
Not a comment on the interesting vid but just wondering if you’ ve heard of the spanish guys from Erle, i have their pfx-mini lying around for more then a year now, wanting to build a rover but cant find the time.
It’s a sweet little board, Pi Zero add-on, but it’s quite expensive, needs the newer JST GH connector etc. Getting into ROS was the interesting bit for me... but then time, time, my kingdom for some time... ;)
[and a backyard like yours!]
Woow excellent
Damn... Were you waiting in line or something?
Not played with Arduino except some silly minor stuff. But as you know the standard way of getting reverse to work with a stick transmitter is to program the esc for high, low and mid points in the throttle range. Usually setting FWD throttle to +1500 centre to 0 and reverse to -1500 works) How you program that in Arduino I have no idea. Most RC car ESC are technically reversing ESCs and there is are threads on the subject of these in the Arduino forum which I tried to work my way through but it's a bit advanced for my level of understanding. There's also one on braking somewhere but I can't find it. I'm sure it will be easy for you though.
This ESC has always worked in the way you describe without needed any settings changed (if it is even capable of being changed, it's a nasty $10 el-cheapo one). So unless ardurover is doing something clever on startup, the ESC should be still behaving that way. I think the problem is the "running model" setting, but the docs don't say where that setting should be made: ardupilot.org/rover/docs/rover-motor-and-servo-configuration.html#esc-configuration
ardurover may indeed have done something "clever" or at least unusual, And you are probably right about the "running model" setting The documentation doesn't seem terribly clear on the subject but from what little I can see in the docs I don't believe it is actually a setting in ardurover software.
I believe it may be external to the software and a hardware setting. It may well be reset by a stick calibration in Ardurover set up or by programming the ESC directly or by going through a traditional throttle point set-up by re-binding the TX to the receiver and esc.
_That probably is wrong but may be worth checking if for nothing else than to rule out one variable_
The F4 V3 Pro on gearbest is actually cheaper than the V2.1 on banggood.
mistercohaagen m.gearbest.com/flight-controller/pp_1025824.html?wid=1433363
Sweet... got 'em. Thanks man.
That one is titled "betaflight" is it the same thing?
Seems like it; www.gearbest.com/flight-controller/pp_1025824.html?wid=1433363 (there is a russian review with detailed pictures of what he received)
iforce2d...I compared the physical layout of the BG and GearBest photos of the F4 V3 PCB and they look identical. Just ordered a couple.
Hey dude. The braking on 0 throttle should be an ESC setting (called drag brake usually).
This ESC already brakes if you go from forward (>1500) to reverse (
Yes that's normal, all ESCs do that. What you want is the ESC setting that sets some amount of braking at ~1500us. Ardurover mapping the throttle to a biased range is another issue I think.
Edit: what ESC do you use?
But not the all ESC have this function. You need a crawler ESC. I found a cheap ESC with this function. hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-x-car-45a-brushed-car-esc.html not an advert, only for help. Banggod I think also have this ESC with a diff. brandname on it :)
Yeah not all ESC's have this. But most good (Tekin, Castle, etc) ESCs can be switched to instant reverse and drag brake.
The ESC I have is a cheapass $9 thing which I would be surprised if it lets you change any settings, I think it's this one: www.banggood.com/320A-Brushed-Speed-Controller-ESC-for-RC-Car-Truck-Boat-1-or-8-1-or-10-p-919886.html
I wonder how much more precise the turning maneuvers are, on a differential drive rover. Do you still have the wheelchair thingy?
Yes I still have the wheelchair, wondering what to do with it. On one hand it might make a good automated lawnmower, but it's also too heavy and powerful to leave unattended anywhere near fences, my car, house, anything I don't want broken. In order to make it truly useful as an autonomous rover it would need more safety features like sonar, lidar etc or even a physical sensor to avoid crushing whatever gets in its way, which I don't quite think I can be bothered with. I would still like to make a different frame for it, with four of those go-kart wheels since I have barely used my welder since I got it. But if I made that, what would I do with it other than just drive around for fun... :)
I like the follow code idea; ruclips.net/video/_g9SkK0IhRk/видео.html I think it'd be interesting to make an autonomous wagon that you could ride in. Then use the rockhopper as a scout to pilot from the main wagon, and whatever other scenarios could be thought of. I'm surprised nobody has done repeated path-based antenna range testing with an Ardurover. I'd like to try range extension by relaying control through NRF's or mesh WiFi with rovers as well. It could form the mobility platform of a radio and optics base that would drive itself to the top of a hill so you can bounce LOS radio links though it to obstructed air, and do long range plane missions while sitting inside... or at least on the far side of the hill. Just having a cargo wagon thing could be fun and useful, even if it just follows the bike around. I'd ensure it has some kind of payload modularity by design, cause it could carry quads, or a turret, or an arm, or have a dumping mechanism, or a seat, etc. I really want to do an ardu-boat I can ride in, but given where I am, doing something like an autonomous recumbent bike is probably more useful. There is an open source autonomous car project that might be adaptable to such a thing; github.com/commaai/openpilot
What was GPS module you were using? Is this 6u?
I think it was a M8N
is the flysky radio any good ?
there are multiple tests of this radio on my channel, try searching for "iforce2d flysky" or something
Thank you! You make excellent job with this Vids. Firs time I think this Omni board is not that what I want for the rover missions. But now I want to try it. Why do you use these boards and not APM 2.8? Only price? If you make a Vid about it, I think that would be a big help for us.
Price, but also the omnibus has onboard OSD and voltage/current sensing. Makes for a much easier and tidier build.
I need the whole ground control explaining
DON'T BUY A v2.1 OF THIS BOARD!!!
As well as the problems mentioned in the video, I just discovered that when you bridge the little solder pads on the back to select full battery voltage for the camera/vtx power pins, you also get full battery power on the telemetry port, so I just blew up my radio modem. As well as that, the board keeps continuously rebooting after about 5 seconds when powered from battery (USB power does not cause reboots). Thankfully things returned to normal after un-bridging the solder pad, and the board itself was not damaged. But this means the camera/vtx power pins are useless if your camera or vtx needs more than 5V to run. I guess I should be thankful that it didn't blow up my GPS or receiver as well.... I think some stupid amateur was in charge of this circuit design, no wonder it was quickly superseded and is now hard to find - that's a good thing!!!
my car doenst take auto mode what should ı do
Check the messages log
@@iforce2d okey, now ı look when ı click the error text on the graphic, send me gps cell, so thats a gps problem? was my gps didnt fix
@@iforce2d thanks for reply, ı look and when ı click error show me gps tab, my gps didnt fix okey, but ı want use without gps ı have encoder
Is that Mission Planner? I thought it only runs on apm pixhawk?
Yes, and you might have been correct a few years ago, but the developers are always hard at work releasing new features :)
@@iforce2d nice....pixhawk stuff way over priced.
Want buy this chassis can give the link whr to buy tried to find on list of places but can’t .
It's called Tamiya CR-01. Kinda expensive for what it is, if I was buying again today I might look around for something a bit cheaper.
Can recommend any cheaper chassis which can fine for this project also .
Having not finished the video- Isn't the braking thing usually an ESC setting?
I don't think this cheap ESC lets you change anything, it has braking by default if you go from forward to reverse quickly without stopping at neutral. There is also a parameter in Mission Planner to say that you want braking, which is enabled by default. The docs mention the ability to choose a different ESC "running model", but do not say where the setting should be made: ardupilot.org/rover/docs/rover-motor-and-servo-configuration.html#esc-configuration
iforce2d interesting, I didn't realize they'd have braking built in to the firmware like that, but given the age of the project, that was probably pre braking capable ESCs. I haven't had a chance to mess with Ardurover yet, though I'd really like to, I have 4 wheel drive RC car in a project bin somewhere waiting for the conversion ;-) Hoping you get a chance to go back the wheel chair conversion too.
You will have to use an esc which supports a 3D setting. Zero throttle is your stick midpoint then...
looks like its return is using spline points.
I put throttle on the elevator channel
isnt because it think its a plane and cant make close turns so it have to prepare to make the turn... not experience in this gps mode and autopilot.. just a acro drone builder.
The rover and copter vehicle types are completely different firmware, so it knows it's not a plane. There are many different parameters, for example the ability to reverse, skid-steering capability for tank style vehicles, option to behave like a boat, a setting for a maximum sideways g-force not to exceed so that it doesn't tip over when turning etc. I think part of the problem I had is that it cannot know how effective the steering will be until it moves, and it cannot turn unless it moves, and since it doesn't move fast the GPS is not so useful as a measurement of heading, plus probably some more issues I'm missing...
First! Trust me