Exactly want I wanted to hear. I am currently grappling with connecting the treadmill motor. Our power mains are 240v but it is 120V DC. I got it the motor without the transformer. I went back to the recycling depot. I got all 3 parts mention in the video but I didn't know which is the transformer. Thanks alot
@@dazecars I spoke and sent an email to Susan. Great customer service so far. Requested availability and cost for a large choke (or whatever they have available). Thank you for the recommendation!
I received a couple of chokes in the mail today. One is similar to the one in your video (130993) and the other one is twice as big maybe similar to the one you have on your lathe or mill (109365). I have a couple more 130993 on the way.
Hello again, I have just gather all the parts and pieces you recommended. Put it all together and now the 3HP motor runs silky smooth in both directions. I have scrapped 4 treadmills from very expensive to the bottom of the line and finally found a large choke with a mc60 board in the cheapest treadmill. For anyone looking for free treadmills Facebook Market Place is a real good source. Most treadmill manuals are on line with parts list, so if you are just looking for a choke, check the parts list first. Thanks for all that you do, it makes a real difference trying to figure this stuff out and save a good Delta lathe from the scrap yard. Just one question: Is there an ( in and out) when wiring in the choke?
What is your email address I need a treadmill motor show for a NordicTrack. It's making a lot of buzzing noises and getting hot. But the motor is running smooth.
Hey buddy, happy new year 🥳 got mine up & running now thanks to you. Just missing the ferrite ac choke. I don’t see one on my board like yours in the video. I have one on the earth that came with the treadmill do you think it’s worth adding one for the ac power like you have shown with the separate donut. Many thanks
I Really enjoy your presentation. You're a great teacher and I Thank you for sharing . my question is can capacitor be used with the SCR controller instead of a choke ? Also if you could add to that as far aa size and number .
I am glad you like my videos. A capacitor can be used as a way to smooth out the power coming out of the power supply, however it works differently from an choke and I found them to be problematic. Here is some info I put together on my experience with them. ruclips.net/video/eR7PIEVurMA/видео.html
i have found the ac inductor you mention in some of the treadmill motors wires i salvaged so it seems they are also functional for dc or they are at the last station to the motor to prevent ac current maybe? or ac passively generated when treadmill is stopped but takes time to acthally stop. would like to hear your thoughts about this. and one other qurstion not sure you related to in your videos is the conversion rate of wall ac to dc if no potentiometer used..recently i have replaced ac induction motor on a planer and jointer old kitty machine with treadmill motor. havenot tested it running but here it is 220 volts ac and the motor is up to 180 volts dc so if i look through internet for conversion calculator for 220 volts ac it will be 140 vdc..meaning i can run it without overloading the motor. will love to hear about that as well. cheers
A choke will work for both AC and DC. The inductor I show in the video works better for DC because it is on both legs but being such a small coil its effectiveness is limited. As to the max voltage you loose a little but in the conversion but not much I would guess 180-200V
It can actually go on either side. Some treadmills have it on the negative, others on the positive. I would try it in both locations and use the one that has the best result.
On using a microwave transformer , using it's wires as a choke , if you cut down the legs to make the frame tighter to the coil ,would that solve Humming issues?
Hello.. I found the corresponding motor choke for my treadmill motor. I have a quick question. It comes with a capacitor strapped on top of it. Should I use the capacitor? If so or not, why? Thank you in advance.
It depends. Some motors require a start capacitor. If that is what it is it should be used. If not for starting it is there to smooth power and is optional. I ran smoothing capacitors on several of my machines and they caused surging under a load so I removed them, but that was specific to my application you may have better results or the same thing.
I just found an old landice treadmill with a baldor 3hp motor, it also had a large transformer (4 times larger than microwave) and a big 250v capacitor that were seperate from board. On the board there's a smaller transformer on the board and a there's an inductor on the board too. Im attempting to build a bench grinder. Im currently trying to decide what I need to build a controller. Do I have everything I need at this point other than a pwm? Will I need that capacitor or large transformer?
I have not messed with fluorescent lamp ballest. I don't think it would work for this appplication but I honestly don't know enough about them to say for sure.
Buzzing can also be because the wires (or something like that) are a but loose. There was an Aussie or Kiwi bloke who explained that, but can't remember what the video was... sorry.
First of all any wire coil independent of the core material (air, iron plates, ferrite rod, or magnetic torid) is an inductor; and the property of an inductor is called inductance and is measured in inductive reactance. The term "choke" also an inductor, and is used to block higher-frequency while passing direct current (DC) and lower-frequencies of alternating current (AC) in an electrical circuit. The name comes from blocking, or "choking", high frequencies while passing low frequencies. For DC currents the inductor will only show a slight resistance to the flow of current through it, but if the signal has an AC component then the inductor will oppose this current flow and its oppoisiton to the flow is a function of both the value of the inductor and the frequency. The larger the value of the inductor and the higher the frequecy the greater the total opposition to the flow of the AC signal will be.
Thank you for the insightful education. I have never claimed to be more than a hobbyist and I am sure there are things I have not quite gotten correct so I appreciate you taking the time to help educate myself and others.
@dazecars im sorry. i guess the link didn't go through. im just a little confused about Choke vs. Inductors and how to guage the size needed. im probably going to diy one. i think a video on how they are different from torrids and how to diy one from scratch. im most likely going to tear apart a microwave transformer, but it seems so excessive for the use. also, if filter chokes only allow dc to pass through. why is it we need the bridge rectifier? its hard to find info on them without knowing how to read a lot of the explainations. (im a hobbiest, not an electrical engineer). my guess is either heat disapation or im incorrect in that they only allow dc through them.
A choke is not technically AC or DC they both allow either current to pass as all it is is a coil of wire. The magnetic field created is what removes smoothes out the power and balances everything out. I refer to them as AC and DC because of how the two main designs are used. The doughnut with two wires wrapped around is used on the AC side and the single wire coil is used in DC applications. Again if you are trying to buy it new and it doesn't say "motor choke" it is way to small. Chokes are normally small components used on circuit boards and the only reason to make one this big is for a MOTOR. This video should help explain further ruclips.net/video/hbfOWrmP_pw/видео.html
Microwave ovens, are full of good ' stuff '. Those circular coils, on ferrite core; microswitches, (N.O. and N.C. types) a fuse, digital readout displays, etc.
I was wondering the other day if I could use a transformer as a choke, or rather, half a transformer. Use the primary winding and remove the secondary. I suppose it should work, ish, but unfortunately I'm no electrician.
So the answer is both yes and no. A transformer is designed to only be used with AC. Stranded wire is better for DC current and solid wire is better for AC current, so most transformer coils are solid wire because transformers are AC. Also unless you are getting a fairly large transformer like one coming out of a microwave the wire in smaller transformers is too small to handle the amps of the treadmill motor and power supply. The motor would probably turn but you would loose torque. In theory if the transformer was big enough and you removed the secondary coil (this is extremely important because every time you shut off the machine an installed secondary coil could arch) The primary coil would function as a choke but it is not a good substitute especially since chokes are available ready made. With that said I am going to do a project (and future video) where I take a microwave transformer, remove the AC coils, and install a single coil made of heavy gauge stranded wire and that should create a good quality choke. Mind you this is all theoretical and I too am not an electrical engineer just a knowledgeable hobbyist so I will not know its efficacy until I test it.
@@dazecars New subscriber here; I've watched a few of your videos and found them useful. But I have one question: You stated that solid wire is best for alternating current (AC), while stranded is better for direct current (DC). But it looks like the choke shown in your video is wound with solid wire. Can you explain why DC inductors need to be wound with stranded wire? And FYI: Any piece of wire will exhibit some inductance when a current is passed through it, but AFAIK most (if not all) of the parts we call "chokes", "inductors", "filters", etc. are indeed coils of wire which are wound on some kind of core (even if that "core" is only air) whose properties are chosen so as to optimize them for specific purposes. I don't mind spending $60 for an inductor marketed as a "Proform NordicTrack Weslo Image Treadmill Motor Choke Transformer 185582 130993" or whatever, but would prefer to go cheaper, and the way to do that is to know the current rating (in Amperes or milliamperes) and the inductance (in Henrys or millihenries) of the part in question. Do you have these specs for the #109365? I can measure inductance, and can guesstimate the current rating by looking at the overall size. Heck, maybe I've already got the part I need in my junk box! BTW: I did look online for the specs, but quickly got lost....
@@carlgradolph9676 First of all, all wire conducts and assuming the AWG is correct stranded and solid wire can be used interchangeably. Most appliance cords and extension cords are stranded wire because it is more flexible and less likely to brake from bending even though used for AC. Factory made chokes are solid wire because the wire is more rigid and can better be formed to the core of the choke. With that in mind all other things being equal stranded wire is better for DC and solid wire is better for AC. Home wiring is almost always solid wire and car wiring is almost always stranded wire. As to the chokes specs and "the math" it only works if you have all the information and because of different motors, different setups and so on specs won't get you there. A better option is a rule of thumb. The bigger the motor choke the better it works. larger magnetic field and wire that can handle more amps. The choke on my lathe is about the size of a softball and is way better than the tennis ball sized choke in my videos. That choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs for you, what I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available on line are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in an amp. treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available on line are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are way too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
@@dazecars cheers mate I ended up working out how to tell which treadmill I wanted and scored the choke I was after 👌🏻. (Dial or slider for speed = old school scr treadmill 😎)
I don't have any specific specs for you. What I do know is physical size makes a difference. The bigger the over all size of the choke the larger the ferrite core and the larger the coil said choke will have and this translates to a more effective choke. This is easily observable in motor noise reduction not to mention a reduction in internal sparking as you increase speed. No choke, small choke and then large coke there is a noticable improvement with each step. The one I show in the video is about the size of tennis ball (came out of a lower quality home treadmill). The choke I have one on my lathe is closer to the size of a softball and it works way better. (came out of a high end gym quality treadmill) As long as the choke is for a treadmill it should work well but if you can get a bigger one you will see better results.
I would need to see pictures of it. Can you contact me through my website and email clear quality pictures (some times people send me blurry or low resolution pix) of the board paying special attention to the connectors?
Electronics tech here: Remember this saying: '' ELI the ICE man ''. ...where E = voltage L=coil I= current I=current C= capacitor E=amperage: > > >> Explained = voltage LEADS the current, in a COIL (and) CURRENT leads the Voltage, in a capacitor circuit. This, may clear up any misunderstanding. i converted my Lincoln AC 225 welder, to DC; using 300 amp bridge rectifier, 4 large metal high voltage capacitors ( 8 microfarads, 250 volts), and a home made ' reactor inductor '' , using microwave oven transformer, (removed all wires) and wound the 0 gauge welding cable, about 5 turns. Welds very good. The capacitor, is in parallel with DC output of rectifier, and reactor-inductor, in series with the + electrode wire. So, the benefit, is when starting the arc, the voltage is higher, than the ' running amps '....after striking and maintaining the ' arc '. (capacitors, smooth out the ripple DC, improving DC voltage). Good luck, all, and HAPPY diy-ing. Good work, DazeCars.....your not ' dazzy '.....at all. Evidence, shows....now, gotta go make a mile on the treadmill, (mild workout !)
Hey, what are your thoughts on adding a DC generator to an existing power unit generator. Something similar to David Poz project, ruclips.net/video/DaF6n-9RVT4/видео.html. The big change is the primary unit is going to be my Kohler Confident 5 Power Unit (rv/utility generator), ruclips.net/video/Gsz9L20A6vg/видео.html. I have a Midnight Kidd SCC on the shelf that is rated for wind and turbine usage. The power unit is rated at 9.8 hp at 1900 rpm but is 20 hp at full 3600. The treadmill motor at its rated constant duty is 2.6hp 110vdc/1939 watts. The end goal is to let the generator (4.7 kw) run critical loads while the treadmill motor charges my solar battery bank in an no sun situation.
As long as you use a proper power regulator so power is not feeding back into the motor powering it, I do not se any reason why you coud not hook it up that way. However it will not be "free extra energy". When a treadmill motor is acting as a generator it is harder to turn. To illustrate take a treadmill motor that is not hooked up to anything and spin the shaft, then conect the positive and negative led and spin the shaft again. It will have a lot more resistance. The more current drawn from the DC generator the more resistance. In other words the gas motor will need to work harder to generate AC and spin the treadmill motor as a DC generator. If the AC generator motor was over sized and putting out extra HP that was not being utilized generating AC then gas consumption would stay the same when hooking up the treadmill motor BUT most generators are optomized for efficiency so any adtional load would also increase gas consumption. It may only increase it slightly and be worth it but It would likely be more efficient to use the AC output of the generator to charge your batteries.
Exactly want I wanted to hear. I am currently grappling with connecting the treadmill motor. Our power mains are 240v but it is 120V DC. I got it the motor without the transformer. I went back to the recycling depot. I got all 3 parts mention in the video but I didn't know which is the transformer. Thanks alot
glad I could help
Hey. Thanks for the hot tip! Numerous times I've needed those particular parts and struggled to find them. Great video. And thanks for all the help!
Glad it helped, this is probably the most common question I get asked.
Thank you. I've been waiting for this one.
I couldn't find the Choke on the website's parts listing but I will give them a call.
Email works too I have exchanged several emails with them.
@@dazecars I spoke and sent an email to Susan. Great customer service so far. Requested availability and cost for a large choke (or whatever they have available). Thank you for the recommendation!
I received a couple of chokes in the mail today. One is similar to the one in your video (130993) and the other one is twice as big maybe similar to the one you have on your lathe or mill (109365). I have a couple more 130993 on the way.
@@aguycalledlucas Glad they were able to get you taken care of
@@aguycalledlucas if you don't mind me asking, how much were they?
Hello again, I have just gather all the parts and pieces you recommended. Put it all together and now the 3HP motor runs silky smooth in both directions. I have scrapped 4 treadmills from very expensive to the bottom of the line and finally found a large choke with a mc60 board in the cheapest treadmill. For anyone looking for free treadmills Facebook Market Place is a real good source. Most treadmill manuals are on line with parts list, so if you are just looking for a choke, check the parts list first. Thanks for all that you do, it makes a real difference trying to figure this stuff out and save a good Delta lathe from the scrap yard.
Just one question: Is there an ( in and out) when wiring in the choke?
No the choke is not directional, there is no in or out.
What is your email address I need a treadmill motor show for a NordicTrack. It's making a lot of buzzing noises and getting hot. But the motor is running smooth.
contact me through my website
Hey buddy, happy new year 🥳 got mine up & running now thanks to you. Just missing the ferrite ac choke. I don’t see one on my board like yours in the video. I have one on the earth that came with the treadmill do you think it’s worth adding one for the ac power like you have shown with the separate donut. Many thanks
I do thing one on the AC side does help.
Thanks for all the good info!
My pleasure!
I Really enjoy your presentation. You're a great teacher and I Thank you for sharing . my question is can capacitor be used with the SCR controller instead of a choke ? Also if you could add to that as far aa size and number .
I am glad you like my videos. A capacitor can be used as a way to smooth out the power coming out of the power supply, however it works differently from an choke and I found them to be problematic. Here is some info I put together on my experience with them. ruclips.net/video/eR7PIEVurMA/видео.html
i have found the ac inductor you mention in some of the treadmill motors wires i salvaged so it seems they are also functional for dc or they are at the last station to the motor to prevent ac current maybe? or ac passively generated when treadmill is stopped but takes time to acthally stop.
would like to hear your thoughts about this.
and one other qurstion not sure you related to in your videos is the conversion rate of wall ac to dc if no potentiometer used..recently i have replaced ac induction motor on a planer and jointer old kitty machine with treadmill motor. havenot tested it running but here it is 220 volts ac and the motor is up to 180 volts dc so if i look through internet for conversion calculator for 220 volts ac it will be 140 vdc..meaning i can run it without overloading the motor. will love to hear about that as well. cheers
A choke will work for both AC and DC. The inductor I show in the video works better for DC because it is on both legs but being such a small coil its effectiveness is limited. As to the max voltage you loose a little but in the conversion but not much I would guess 180-200V
Does the choke get wired inline on the positive or negitive DC output?
It can actually go on either side. Some treadmills have it on the negative, others on the positive. I would try it in both locations and use the one that has the best result.
hi sir. can we wind a dc coilfor this using old transformer
check out this video and let me know if you have any other questions ruclips.net/video/sYjkQvUSths/видео.html
On using a microwave transformer , using it's wires as a choke , if you cut down the legs to make the frame tighter to the coil ,would that solve Humming issues?
the huming issue was the result of the top not being welded back on.
Hello.. I found the corresponding motor choke for my treadmill motor. I have a quick question. It comes with a capacitor strapped on top of it. Should I use the capacitor? If so or not, why?
Thank you in advance.
It depends. Some motors require a start capacitor. If that is what it is it should be used. If not for starting it is there to smooth power and is optional. I ran smoothing capacitors on several of my machines and they caused surging under a load so I removed them, but that was specific to my application you may have better results or the same thing.
@@dazecars Thank you for your comment. I love your work.
👍
I just found an old landice treadmill with a baldor 3hp motor, it also had a large transformer (4 times larger than microwave) and a big 250v capacitor that were seperate from board. On the board there's a smaller transformer on the board and a there's an inductor on the board too. Im attempting to build a bench grinder. Im currently trying to decide what I need to build a controller. Do I have everything I need at this point other than a pwm? Will I need that capacitor or large transformer?
First off all are they transformers or chokes? They look the same but are not. Second what do you plan to use as a controller?
Hi. I can use a ballast? I have a 400w one.
A ballast resistor will reduce voltage not eliminate spikes.
@@dazecars A ballasts for fluorescent lamps
I have not messed with fluorescent lamp ballest. I don't think it would work for this appplication but I honestly don't know enough about them to say for sure.
I have a NordicTrack exp 1000s. And the choke is buzzing too loud can I remove that and run the motor and enjoy it without that choke?
Are you sure it's a choke and not a transformer? Chokes don't typically buzz.
Buzzing can also be because the wires (or something like that) are a but loose. There was an Aussie or Kiwi bloke who explained that, but can't remember what the video was... sorry.
yes that is why in commercially made applications the wires are epoxied together.
First of all any wire coil independent of the core material (air, iron plates, ferrite rod, or magnetic torid) is an inductor; and the property of an inductor is called inductance and is measured in inductive reactance. The term "choke" also an inductor, and is used to block higher-frequency while passing direct current (DC) and lower-frequencies of alternating current (AC) in an electrical circuit. The name comes from blocking, or "choking", high frequencies while passing low frequencies. For DC currents the inductor will only show a slight resistance to the flow of current through it, but if the signal has an AC component then the inductor will oppose this current flow and its oppoisiton to the flow is a function of both the value of the inductor and the frequency. The larger the value of the inductor and the higher the frequecy the greater the total opposition to the flow of the AC signal will be.
Thank you for the insightful education. I have never claimed to be more than a hobbyist and I am sure there are things I have not quite gotten correct so I appreciate you taking the time to help educate myself and others.
No chokes or motor choke came up when searching for parts on that site
motor chokes are getting harder to find
would something like this work? how do you size a choke?
something like what? If its not listed as a "motor choke" it will not work as it will not be big enough.
@dazecars im sorry. i guess the link didn't go through. im just a little confused about Choke vs. Inductors and how to guage the size needed. im probably going to diy one. i think a video on how they are different from torrids and how to diy one from scratch. im most likely going to tear apart a microwave transformer, but it seems so excessive for the use. also, if filter chokes only allow dc to pass through. why is it we need the bridge rectifier? its hard to find info on them without knowing how to read a lot of the explainations. (im a hobbiest, not an electrical engineer). my guess is either heat disapation or im incorrect in that they only allow dc through them.
A choke is not technically AC or DC they both allow either current to pass as all it is is a coil of wire. The magnetic field created is what removes smoothes out the power and balances everything out. I refer to them as AC and DC because of how the two main designs are used. The doughnut with two wires wrapped around is used on the AC side and the single wire coil is used in DC applications. Again if you are trying to buy it new and it doesn't say "motor choke" it is way to small. Chokes are normally small components used on circuit boards and the only reason to make one this big is for a MOTOR. This video should help explain further ruclips.net/video/hbfOWrmP_pw/видео.html
Microwave ovens, are full of good ' stuff '. Those circular coils, on ferrite core; microswitches, (N.O. and N.C. types) a fuse, digital readout displays, etc.
I now have boxes full of microwave parts. I got them for the transformers but kept everything that I might have a use for.
I was wondering the other day if I could use a transformer as a choke, or rather, half a transformer.
Use the primary winding and remove the secondary. I suppose it should work, ish, but unfortunately I'm no electrician.
So the answer is both yes and no. A transformer is designed to only be used with AC. Stranded wire is better for DC current and solid wire is better for AC current, so most transformer coils are solid wire because transformers are AC. Also unless you are getting a fairly large transformer like one coming out of a microwave the wire in smaller transformers is too small to handle the amps of the treadmill motor and power supply. The motor would probably turn but you would loose torque. In theory if the transformer was big enough and you removed the secondary coil (this is extremely important because every time you shut off the machine an installed secondary coil could arch) The primary coil would function as a choke but it is not a good substitute especially since chokes are available ready made. With that said I am going to do a project (and future video) where I take a microwave transformer, remove the AC coils, and install a single coil made of heavy gauge stranded wire and that should create a good quality choke. Mind you this is all theoretical and I too am not an electrical engineer just a knowledgeable hobbyist so I will not know its efficacy until I test it.
@@dazecars New subscriber here; I've watched a few of your videos and found them useful. But I have one question: You stated that solid wire is best for alternating current (AC), while stranded is better for direct current (DC). But it looks like the choke shown in your video is wound with solid wire. Can you explain why DC inductors need to be wound with stranded wire?
And FYI: Any piece of wire will exhibit some inductance when a current is passed through it, but AFAIK most (if not all) of the parts we call "chokes", "inductors", "filters", etc. are indeed coils of wire which are wound on some kind of core (even if that "core" is only air) whose properties are chosen so as to optimize them for specific purposes. I don't mind spending $60 for an inductor marketed as a "Proform NordicTrack Weslo Image Treadmill Motor Choke Transformer 185582 130993" or whatever, but would prefer to go cheaper, and the way to do that is to know the current rating (in Amperes or milliamperes) and the inductance (in Henrys or millihenries) of the part in question. Do you have these specs for the #109365? I can measure inductance, and can guesstimate the current rating by looking at the overall size. Heck, maybe I've already got the part I need in my junk box!
BTW: I did look online for the specs, but quickly got lost....
@@carlgradolph9676 First of all, all wire conducts and assuming the AWG is correct stranded and solid wire can be used interchangeably. Most appliance cords and extension cords are stranded wire because it is more flexible and less likely to brake from bending even though used for AC. Factory made chokes are solid wire because the wire is more rigid and can better be formed to the core of the choke. With that in mind all other things being equal stranded wire is better for DC and solid wire is better for AC. Home wiring is almost always solid wire and car wiring is almost always stranded wire. As to the chokes specs and "the math" it only works if you have all the information and because of different motors, different setups and so on specs won't get you there. A better option is a rule of thumb. The bigger the motor choke the better it works. larger magnetic field and wire that can handle more amps. The choke on my lathe is about the size of a softball and is way better than the tennis ball sized choke in my videos. That choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Hey mate if I’m to buy a choke do you know if I want high or low H?
Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs for you, what I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available on line are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in an amp. treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available on line are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are way too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
@@dazecars cheers mate I ended up working out how to tell which treadmill I wanted and scored the choke I was after 👌🏻. (Dial or slider for speed = old school scr treadmill 😎)
yess all of those will have a choke but some digital panel units will also have a choke
That inductor you are referring to is actually a common mode choke!!
good to know
What is the size or parameters or part number of the choke you show in the video?
I don't have any specific specs for you. What I do know is physical size makes a difference. The bigger the over all size of the choke the larger the ferrite core and the larger the coil said choke will have and this translates to a more effective choke. This is easily observable in motor noise reduction not to mention a reduction in internal sparking as you increase speed. No choke, small choke and then large coke there is a noticable improvement with each step. The one I show in the video is about the size of tennis ball (came out of a lower quality home treadmill). The choke I have one on my lathe is closer to the size of a softball and it works way better. (came out of a high end gym quality treadmill) As long as the choke is for a treadmill it should work well but if you can get a bigger one you will see better results.
My treadmill came with a MC 60M. The H,W, and L prongs are not there. I also have a DC choke (big inductor) in it, and no AC choke.
I would need to see pictures of it. Can you contact me through my website and email clear quality pictures (some times people send me blurry or low resolution pix) of the board paying special attention to the connectors?
your microphone rocks.
thanks
👍👍👍👍
thanks
Electronics tech here: Remember this saying: '' ELI the ICE man ''. ...where E = voltage L=coil I= current I=current C= capacitor E=amperage: > > >> Explained = voltage LEADS the current, in a COIL (and) CURRENT leads the Voltage, in a capacitor circuit.
This, may clear up any misunderstanding. i converted my Lincoln AC 225 welder, to DC; using 300 amp bridge rectifier, 4 large metal high voltage capacitors ( 8 microfarads, 250 volts), and a home made ' reactor inductor '' , using microwave oven transformer, (removed all wires) and wound the 0 gauge welding cable, about 5 turns. Welds very good. The capacitor, is in parallel with DC output of rectifier, and reactor-inductor, in series with the + electrode wire. So, the benefit, is when starting the arc, the voltage is higher, than the ' running amps '....after striking and maintaining the ' arc '. (capacitors, smooth out the ripple DC, improving DC voltage). Good luck, all, and HAPPY diy-ing. Good work, DazeCars.....your not ' dazzy '.....at all. Evidence, shows....now, gotta go make a mile on the treadmill, (mild workout !)
sorry, ICE should be -current ; capacitor ; VOLTAGE, not amps. ....
Thanks for the info!! always good to get technical info
@@dazecars No p. (from Alberta Canada ! )
@@petersack5074 we are neighbors, I'm in Montana
Hey, what are your thoughts on adding a DC generator to an existing power unit generator. Something similar to David Poz project, ruclips.net/video/DaF6n-9RVT4/видео.html. The big change is the primary unit is going to be my Kohler Confident 5 Power Unit (rv/utility generator), ruclips.net/video/Gsz9L20A6vg/видео.html. I have a Midnight Kidd SCC on the shelf that is rated for wind and turbine usage. The power unit is rated at 9.8 hp at 1900 rpm but is 20 hp at full 3600. The treadmill motor at its rated constant duty is 2.6hp 110vdc/1939 watts. The end goal is to let the generator (4.7 kw) run critical loads while the treadmill motor charges my solar battery bank in an no sun situation.
As long as you use a proper power regulator so power is not feeding back into the motor powering it, I do not se any reason why you coud not hook it up that way. However it will not be "free extra energy". When a treadmill motor is acting as a generator it is harder to turn. To illustrate take a treadmill motor that is not hooked up to anything and spin the shaft, then conect the positive and negative led and spin the shaft again. It will have a lot more resistance. The more current drawn from the DC generator the more resistance. In other words the gas motor will need to work harder to generate AC and spin the treadmill motor as a DC generator. If the AC generator motor was over sized and putting out extra HP that was not being utilized generating AC then gas consumption would stay the same when hooking up the treadmill motor BUT most generators are optomized for efficiency so any adtional load would also increase gas consumption. It may only increase it slightly and be worth it but It would likely be more efficient to use the AC output of the generator to charge your batteries.