I remember the days of the straight weight engine oils with hardly any additives in it at all ! 50 years later anything meeting ILSC- GF6 is the standard ! I went to pennzoil ultra platinum and fram ultra syn oil filters and never looked back !
I have always been amazed how oil can be formulated to get thinner in colder weather and thicker in hotter weather. It's almost like magic..!! And the misunderstanding about what the 'W' stood for: I am 72 and I will have to plead guilty that I also thought the 'W' stood for 'weight'. I would just say: 5 'w'-30, or whatever the two numbers were, and did not say: 5 'weight'-30. But...I knew that the lower first number meant a lower viscosity for cold weather and the second, higher number stood for a higher viscosity for warmer weather. I think that knowing what the numbers stood for was/is more important than any misunderstanding about the 'W'.
NO oil is thicker at a higher temp. 5w30 means the oil exhibits multi grade viscosity. It's as thick as a grade 5 oil when they (5w30 and grade 5) are both cold and it's as thick as a grade 30 oil when they (5w30 and grade 30) are both at working temperature. Overall, 5w30 oil is substantially thinner at working temperature than when it's cold,
I’m 61 yo and I remember my older brother telling me that about Quaker State and Pennsoil being bad because it slugged up engines. This was back in the late 70s when I began to drive and do my own oil changes. He said it was because they used Pennsylvania grade crude oil. Never knew it was a myth. He always used Castrol GTX so that is what I used.
i dont change my oil on mileage i do it based on color which ends up being early compared to the recommended interval but thats always better than later
We were cleaning out an old garage once getting the place ready to rent and found an old quart of this with a 52 cent price tag on it. Now it cost 13.46 times that before tax is added. Has our pay gone up 13.46 times? Off topic a bit but thought I'd throw it in there.
Check the oil on your older ride just for fun do it often at least once a month. Most of the time the ride gets hot season oil change and cold season oil change. At first sign of color or smell change It gets changed. Modified rides can get a oil change with extreme short frequency. After running 3 rides deep in the 300's I have to assume oil works when you do. I like watching the 70's-80's no CGI car chase scenes speed can hurt. Talk about drive through & stuff. monday Monday MONDAY
I get irritated at how they yank the wires out from under the dash, strip them with their fingernails, and drive away even though the steering wheel and shifter are still locked.
I have never heard anyone think the W stood for weight, but everyone says "some people think the W stands for weight" But then you go conflating winter and weight in a different way, 5winter-30 weight oil acts like a traditional 5 weight oil in the cold, and a traditional 30 weight oil in the heat, but no one abbreviates weight as W, and they usually omit the word weight when talking about multi viscosity oils. They say 5dubya30 not 5dubya30 weight.
@@McCuistian do they really say 5 weight 30? I've never heard the word weight used between the two viscosities of a multi viscosity oil, I've heard people say 5 weight or 30 weight where they've conflated multiviscosity oils with traditional single viscosity oils, but never have I heard someone say 5 weight 30 or similar. I could say it's because of our great Iowa education system but that's being flushed down the tubes...
@@McCuistian so you are acknowledging they don't say five weight thirty? Cuz that's the thing I've never seen, the word weight, between the two viscosities
@@KreemieNewgatt The “W” in motor oil has always stood for “winter,” not “weight.” This designation is part of the viscosity grade of the oil, which indicates how the oil performs at cold temperatures. The viscosity grade is determined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the “W” signifies the oil’s characteristics during winter conditions. For example, a 5W-30 oil has a viscosity that is suitable for use in colder temperatures, as indicated by the “5W,” and a different viscosity at normal engine operating temperatures, as indicated by the “30” 1234. It’s a common misconception that the “W” stands for weight, but it has been associated with winter since the SAE first introduced this designation in the 1950s
Can't wait for the next video, Sir Richard McCuistian My teacher Q&T Can't find the podcast 👍 INTVITIVE, Sir Richard McCuistian From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 15:24 Good Afternoon
I had a lady coke to our shop one day wanting an oil change. after I pulled the car up onto our drive on life we used for oil changes she walked upnto me and said it w a s due for an oil change because the oil change light was on. this was around 2004 or 2005 so the oil change light were kind of a new thing at that time and I didn't think that car had one, plus I don't remember what the car was specifically, so I payed dumb and asked her to show me the light on the dash. I turn the key and she immediately pointed to the red pil pressure light. I told her thank you had her go back to the waiting g area and called my boss over. I started the car up and it ran and idled fine bit when you revved it up the pil pressure light would flicker. we later found out this was the first oil change she had on the car since she bought it, 60k miles. my boss told me yo pull the lkug and nothing came out. scraped the inside of the pan with a screwdriver and that oil had the consistency of peanut butter. it was so thick and tacky. easily the worse oil change I have ever had to do.
That she made it 60,000 miles is astonishing. One guy brought his F150 300 six in at 30k miles and it still had the painted gray filter on it - the engine was knocking and when we pulled the oil pan the oil had literally turned to tar. That was in the mid-1980s at the dealer. The guy claimed he had always changed his oil at the mileage the book said to. Yeah, Right. In 1987 I bought a 1985 Ford Tempo repo that had a locked up engine after having gone 38,000 miles without an oil change. I paid 800 for the car - bought an engine AND transmission from the salvage yard for 600 bucks, fixed the A/C, put a set of tires on it, and sold it to my aunt for 3500 (it was worth 4400 at the time) - I cleared 1500 on the deal - and my uncle drove that Tempo for another 120,000 miles before it was sold still running perfectly. Another Tempo - one of those early ones with the carburetor and that single red "engine" light that would come on due to oil pressure OR temperature - would illuminate that red engine light and then quit running (overheating). She'd let it cool and then drive some more. She took it to a shop down Defuniak Springs Florida and they told her they didn't see anything wrong with the car and that the "engine" light could be ignored (thinking it was a "Check Engine" light, which Fords didn't have until later. When I drew the ticket on that Tempo, I found the cooling system had at some point been filled with nothing but water and the radiator was clogged with rust. I flushed the rust out of the engine, replaced the radiator and the Thermostat (which had turned blue as if you heated it with a torch), and filled it with 50/50 coolant-water mix, burped it out... and it ran perfectly - I know of no other engine In my 40 plus years of automotive that could have survived that overheating. And some people think that as long as their vehicle is running good, they don't need to have any work done on it - like the one you saw... People just aren't as knowledgeable as they once were about their vehicles.
Had a Rancher that hauled cattle in a long cattle trailer on a large Texas Ranch. The Chevy's built back then in order to save weight did not have a complete box frame but were a "C" configuration. Over a period of time the frames broke down (sagged or twisted). Bad Idea from GM. The Rancher sold all his Chevy trucks as the Dealer would not honor the product construction. He sold all his 11 Chevy truck fleet and bought all new Fords. No doubt GM engineers at their worst !
I remember the days of the straight weight engine oils with hardly any additives in it at all ! 50 years later anything meeting ILSC- GF6 is the standard ! I went to pennzoil ultra platinum and fram ultra syn oil filters and never looked back !
This is perfect, 1st thing this morning I'm going to change the oil on someones XUV590i gator. Thank you Sir.
I have seen some serious waxy Pennzoil sludge. I wouldn't use it.
I have always been amazed how oil can be formulated to get thinner in colder weather and thicker in hotter weather. It's almost like magic..!!
And the misunderstanding about what the 'W' stood for: I am 72 and I will have to plead guilty that I also thought the 'W' stood for 'weight'. I would just say: 5 'w'-30, or whatever the two numbers were, and did not say: 5 'weight'-30. But...I knew that the lower first number meant a lower viscosity for cold weather and the second, higher number stood for a higher viscosity for warmer weather.
I think that knowing what the numbers stood for was/is more important than any misunderstanding about the 'W'.
NO oil is thicker at a higher temp.
5w30 means the oil exhibits multi grade viscosity. It's as thick as a grade 5 oil when they (5w30 and grade 5) are both cold and it's as thick as a grade 30 oil when they (5w30 and grade 30) are both at working temperature.
Overall, 5w30 oil is substantially thinner at working temperature than when it's cold,
I've used Quaker St. for many,many yrs,...no problem.
🇺🇸😎
I’m 61 yo and I remember my older brother telling me that about Quaker State and Pennsoil being bad because it slugged up engines. This was back in the late 70s when I began to drive and do my own oil changes. He said it was because they used Pennsylvania grade crude oil. Never knew it was a myth. He always used Castrol GTX so that is what I used.
i dont change my oil on mileage i do it based on color which ends up being early compared to the recommended interval but thats always better than later
We were cleaning out an old garage once getting the place ready to rent and found an old quart of this with a 52 cent price tag on it. Now it cost 13.46 times that before tax is added.
Has our pay gone up 13.46 times?
Off topic a bit but thought I'd throw it in there.
Interesting! I've still got a couple of quarts here.
@@McCuistian Those cans were around in the 70's and not sure how long before that right? Do they still have a price tag?
I feel like there's an air of authority on the topic when "oil" is pronounced "awl*.
I love trivia like this.
Cheers!
I heard that back in he early 60s but it was Pennzoil.
Check the oil on your older ride just for fun do it often at least once a month. Most of the time the ride gets hot season oil change and cold season oil change. At first sign of color or smell change It gets changed. Modified rides can get a oil change with extreme short frequency. After running 3 rides deep in the 300's I have to assume oil works when you do. I like watching the 70's-80's no CGI car chase scenes speed can hurt. Talk about drive through & stuff.
monday Monday MONDAY
I get irritated at how they yank the wires out from under the dash, strip them with their fingernails, and drive away even though the steering wheel and shifter are still locked.
@@McCuistian Movies can be ridiculous to people who have even a few seconds of experience. Have a awesome week.
My dad had sludge and drove short trips constantly.
I have never heard anyone think the W stood for weight, but everyone says "some people think the W stands for weight"
But then you go conflating winter and weight in a different way, 5winter-30 weight oil acts like a traditional 5 weight oil in the cold, and a traditional 30 weight oil in the heat, but no one abbreviates weight as W, and they usually omit the word weight when talking about multi viscosity oils. They say 5dubya30 not 5dubya30 weight.
Just about everybody I ever taught or talked to for forty years referred to the "weight" of the oil in that context.
@@McCuistian do they really say 5 weight 30? I've never heard the word weight used between the two viscosities of a multi viscosity oil, I've heard people say 5 weight or 30 weight where they've conflated multiviscosity oils with traditional single viscosity oils, but never have I heard someone say 5 weight 30 or similar.
I could say it's because of our great Iowa education system but that's being flushed down the tubes...
@@fakenamejones4254 They say "40 weight, 30 weight, etc. I've heard it all my life - and I'm 67 - been doing car work since I was about 11.
@@McCuistian so you are acknowledging they don't say five weight thirty? Cuz that's the thing I've never seen, the word weight, between the two viscosities
@@KreemieNewgatt The “W” in motor oil has always stood for “winter,” not “weight.” This designation is part of the viscosity grade of the oil, which indicates how the oil performs at cold temperatures. The viscosity grade is determined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the “W” signifies the oil’s characteristics during winter conditions. For example, a 5W-30 oil has a viscosity that is suitable for use in colder temperatures, as indicated by the “5W,” and a different viscosity at normal engine operating temperatures, as indicated by the “30” 1234. It’s a common misconception that the “W” stands for weight, but it has been associated with winter since the SAE first introduced this designation in the 1950s
Can't wait for the next video, Sir Richard McCuistian
My teacher
Q&T Can't find the podcast
👍
INTVITIVE, Sir Richard McCuistian
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 15:24 Good Afternoon
I had a lady coke to our shop one day wanting an oil change. after I pulled the car up onto our drive on life we used for oil changes she walked upnto me and said it w a s due for an oil change because the oil change light was on. this was around 2004 or 2005 so the oil change light were kind of a new thing at that time and I didn't think that car had one, plus I don't remember what the car was specifically, so I payed dumb and asked her to show me the light on the dash. I turn the key and she immediately pointed to the red pil pressure light. I told her thank you had her go back to the waiting g area and called my boss over. I started the car up and it ran and idled fine bit when you revved it up the pil pressure light would flicker. we later found out this was the first oil change she had on the car since she bought it, 60k miles. my boss told me yo pull the lkug and nothing came out. scraped the inside of the pan with a screwdriver and that oil had the consistency of peanut butter. it was so thick and tacky. easily the worse oil change I have ever had to do.
That she made it 60,000 miles is astonishing. One guy brought his F150 300 six in at 30k miles and it still had the painted gray filter on it - the engine was knocking and when we pulled the oil pan the oil had literally turned to tar.
That was in the mid-1980s at the dealer. The guy claimed he had always changed his oil at the mileage the book said to. Yeah, Right.
In 1987 I bought a 1985 Ford Tempo repo that had a locked up engine after having gone 38,000 miles without an oil change.
I paid 800 for the car - bought an engine AND transmission from the salvage yard for 600 bucks, fixed the A/C, put a set of tires on it, and sold it to my aunt for 3500 (it was worth 4400 at the time) - I cleared 1500 on the deal - and my uncle drove that Tempo for another 120,000 miles before it was sold still running perfectly.
Another Tempo - one of those early ones with the carburetor and that single red "engine" light that would come on due to oil pressure OR temperature - would illuminate that red engine light and then quit running (overheating).
She'd let it cool and then drive some more. She took it to a shop down Defuniak Springs Florida and they told her they didn't see anything wrong with the car and that the "engine" light could be ignored (thinking it was a "Check Engine" light, which Fords didn't have until later.
When I drew the ticket on that Tempo, I found the cooling system had at some point been filled with nothing but water and the radiator was clogged with rust.
I flushed the rust out of the engine, replaced the radiator and the Thermostat (which had turned blue as if you heated it with a torch), and filled it with 50/50 coolant-water mix, burped it out... and it ran perfectly -
I know of no other engine In my 40 plus years of automotive that could have survived that overheating. And some people think that as long as their vehicle is running good, they don't need to have any work done on it - like the one you saw...
People just aren't as knowledgeable as they once were about their vehicles.
Had a Rancher that hauled cattle in a long cattle trailer on a large Texas Ranch. The Chevy's built back then in order to save weight did not have a complete box frame but were a "C" configuration. Over a period of time the frames broke down (sagged or twisted). Bad Idea from GM. The Rancher sold all his Chevy trucks as the Dealer would not honor the product construction. He sold all his 11 Chevy truck fleet and bought all new Fords. No doubt GM engineers at their worst !
Those jeeps were tanks only problem was they were gas hogs
Amateurish I'm sad to say !!