If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share it to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching🙂TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 Planting Trees In Heavy Soil 4:15 Trees That Tolerate Poor Drainage 5:10 How To Maximize Soil Drainage 6:34 Digging A Test Hole 8:57 How To Make Well Draining Soil Mix 10:10 My New Avocado Tree Selection 12:02 How To Plant A Tree In A Raised Garden Bed 13:53 The Best Mulches To Use 15:09 Results 23 Days Later And Final Tips 17:48 Adventures With Dale
Dude Millennial Gardener, wasn't there a Hurricane Debby right over top of your house 4 hours ago? What a legend, still putting out content in the garden right in a hurricane
I filmed this beforehand. It's been raining for 7 days straight. 15.5 inches so far. The avocado tree looks great, though. The raised bed drained those 15.5 inches with ease.
@@TheMillennialGardener Wow man mother nature sure can be relentless. I'm glad everything drained and is holding up. You weren't kidding about how tough the weather is there in zone 8/Carolinas. I'm right above you in zone 7b Charleston/WV. Thanks for all you do the Videos are great. Stay safe.
Hi, I'm so glad you're getting more avocado trees. I'm also in an 8b borderline avocado situation and I've planted over 80 seeds this year to see if I can find something that can take our winters. About 40 of those seeds were daughters of Hass, so probably not very cold hardy (although Hass has quite a bit of Mexican genes in it and who knows what type the father trees were) and about 40 were from "wild Mexican" fruit (unnamed varieties) and I'm hoping those can do well. I don't really care about varieties or getting fruit as long as I can get any avocado tree to survive here. One thing I've heard is that seedlings are generally stronger than grafted trees. Another thing I've noticed is that the Mexican seeds sprouted so fast compared to the Hass, despite having roughly the same size seed -- most of my Mexican seeds germinated within 2 weeks of putting in water, some as little as two days, whereas my Hass-fruit seeds often took 8 weeks or more. Anyway, I'm looking forward to more avocado updates!!
M.G. Very glad to see this video. I live in Sebastian,Florida. LOTS of sand. I have two Orchards,one in ground,the other,potted or raised Orchard. My point is. The in ground is very slow growing,especially the Avacodos. Only 6 inches in two years. BUT, the potted, plants with my special mix,soil. The fruit trees, growing 3X, in the same period of time. Next time you visit your property,if u want to visit me i Sebastian you are welcome.
You have done an amazing job with your backyard. The trees border your property beautifully. I enjoy the before and after photos. It's a diary of dedication and success.
👍we just did this with peach trees here in Australia. The raised beds were deeper, so I used chopped up branches/leaves in the base with some lime, then packed it up with coconut coir, soil and manure. If have a manure question. Sheep shit, cow shit or chook shit? We went with sheep shit because I read that it is less something, like acidic, or something... ? I am a beginner so I follow ewe! 😂😂 Belinda
You have to be careful doing that. The goal of planting a tree in a raised bed is to increase the drainage while keeping the bed open at the bottom so the roots penetrate into the native soil eventually and the tree can realize its full potential. If you are placing all those branches at the bottom, you're going to create a water-holding layer, which is what you're trying to avoid. It's possible that could harm the tree. You may also block the taproot's access into the native soil, which will confine the tree almost like growing it in a container. You don't want to confine the tree. You want it to grow and not be limited. Otherwise, you may as well leave it in a container.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks! It is great advice as I have more to go. The one I planted is a dwarf, so pot suitable. But the rest are bigger. You probably saved the lives of 3 trees! 🤣 "if a tree falls in a forest, does anybody hear", who cares about people, people suck! 💜💜👍🤣🦘🦘😊
Hi Anthony, You would be surprised at how many people you are helping with these videos. People asks me about avacado and other citrus trees. Thank god you are out there for information. I do hope Hurricane Debie didn't beat you up too bad. I sure were thinking of you and hoping you and your garden survives ok. your friend Jessie from Arkansas
I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful. Debby was bad. Not really any wind, but 17 inches of rain has fallen over the last week. Rainfall damage takes a long time to show, so we have to see if anything drowns. Some of my new bare root trees I planted in the spring that were previously doing well are not happy.
Really good video Anthony. I know you will succeed with the new avocado tree. Hope to see the super secret tree planted in Florida too. Thanks for sharing.
At the Florida property I would recommend the West Indies cherry, or the Barbados cherry. Not a true cherry but wonderful fruiting bush, very fast growing once they establish themselves and fruit heavily.
I've seen them before, but the challenge for me will be tasting these fruits before I plant them since we can't find them anywhere else in the US. If/when the day finally comes that I transition down to the Florida property, I'm going to have to go on a regional fruit tasting tour 😅
I didn't hear you say anything about this so thought I would mention it because locations along the SE US can be OK or terrible, with SOME places being good for trees like this, or a LOT of trees for that matter. That area depending on where you are isn't good for many types of trees, but if you grow dwarf varieties and the water table is far enough down you can get away with growing trees that aren't ideal for that location. Step 1. KNOW where the water table is in your yard in the lowest and highest points. So, how many feet down is it to where you have standing water. This is VERY different than checking how well the soil drains. It's also best to check the water table during the wetter time of the year, but not when it's been raining. So, you get a period of rain and then it's dry for 3 - 4 days and THEN you check. There's only one good way I know of checking and that's digging holes. You know when you're at the water table because the hole will start filling up and usually the soil changes. Step 2. Check the type of tree you're going to grow and see how it deals with roots in the water table, also check the type of root system it has along with its spread. I see that small raised bed and I can't figure out what that's supposed to do unless it's a small tree with a very small spread near the surface. Step 3. You need to know how many hours your location has below freezing if you want to grow different fruit trees and you need to know how many hours of below freezing temps the tree needs. This applies to apples, pears and a few other common fruit trees grown in the US. If you don't get enough below freezing time during the winter, the tree doesn't have a good sap cycle (Fall, sap starts to move down to the roots, Spring, sap starts moving back up to produce growth). Without a proper cycle for the tree it won't be a good producer of fruit. It stinks to get a tree to a stage it should be fruiting only to find out it doesn't fruit well because of the conditions there. A lot of indigenous trees in that part of the country are used to having roots in the water table. Most fruit trees on the other hand don't tolerate that very well.
Funny, I randomly just used Four Winds. Same thoughts as you on what I ordered, really healthy plants. Nice boxing situation as well, plants were very protected and very happy when I got them.
Looks fantastic! I anticipated the variety you chose and also bought a Stewart. Mine had some severe transplant shock and lost its leaves but no doubt will recover. I’m excited to see how the fruit looks is a couple years.
I love your videos and because of you I am the proud owner of an owari and a ichiro persimmon. I was wondering if in the time you had your avocado tree planted next to your house have you had any issues (foundation and whatnot). I have a free spot next to my house like yours and I would like plant the Stewart. Thank you for your time and keep the videos coming. You are such a great teacher ❤
So cool, loved this video. I have some clay in my Houston garden, I can totally use this method now-yay! Interesting that you used top soil to fill the bed while majority advises on using potting soils or other fluffier options. Can you share some insights into your selection of filler?
I had not thought of dwarf varieties having shallower roots. That's a nice proposition for my clay soil, though it's a bit scary when I think of the high winds we can encounter.
I planted my dwarf Redhaven peach tree in a 4 foot diameter 24 inch high raised bed even though my soil drains well, because my entire property has a rock layer about 16 inches deep, which makes digging a hole for a tree impossible for me since I'm in my eighties. The rocks aren't big, but they are large enough and numerous enough that even a strong guy can't drive in a T post below the spade. When we put in some 4 by 4 posts tp make my garden enclosure, the landscaper had to use a sit on caterpillar drive power auger. He said it was the worst time he had ever had in his career digging post holes. My question is this: Should I surround that raised bed with mulch for winter protection? I live in zone 6 and we can get into the teens in the winter. I'm concerned that the raised bed is too exposed to keep the tree's roots from freezing. What should I use? Straw bales, burlap, or what? Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
The only drawback I could see with raising the bed is that the 18" of soil is now up higher in the frost zone come winter time. Would you string lights around the metal and jacket the whole thing to get around that? If that root ball freezes during one of our 15° stretches, it's game over for the tree too.
Cold air settles, so actually getting it up a couple feet gets the graft above where cold air settles. Because it's in the rear property, it will not be getting any lights. It'll only get water barrels like my citrus, so it'll be an interesting experiment. The water barrels kept my citrus at 24F when it was 14F outside, and I since added another, so I'm rolling the dice.
Good info to know when i plant some in the future. i would have inserted some vertical root barriers in the ground to limit competition from the pine tree roots. Being that it is in the corner of 2 fences, i imagine you will be able to easily construct a temporary greenhouse over it in the colder seasons to help keep the tree warm/alive. Shalom
By the time the avocado tree breaks through the bed bottom, it’ll be able to compete with the pine roots. I actually want the tree to be dwarfed, so competition is good.
I have a Eureka lemon, a bay laurel, and a key lime in Houston Tx. All of them are in containers, both so I can bring them inside when it gets too cold, and because all we have is that "muck" you mentioned. I have noticed that the container soil level has fallen, which is normal, but if I top the containers up with soil, I'd be burying the graft line (on the grafted trees), which I know I shouldn't do. What do you recommend in that situation? Do I need to basically up-pot the trees each year? If so, what time of year is best? Thank you! I hope you, your garden and your family are doing ok after this hurricane. Those are not fun at all.
I planted a bay laurel in-ground, and I'm in 8b. I would think a bay laurel will be OK your way. The eureka and key limes are probably a stretch. My key lime has to be put in my sunroom, but I put a Eustis Limequat in ground, which apparently has extremely similar fruit and is hardy to about 20F. Maybe look into that. For your tree, I would just pull the roots, cut some off and re-pot it with some fresh soil. I have a video on root pruning here: ruclips.net/video/-oOwNiZzGmM/видео.htmlsi=A4kqiag_qKP9mcJ5 Root pruning is typically done to deciduous trees when they're dormant. Since citrus doesn't go dormant, you probably want to do this after you've harvested all the fruit, since that's when the tree will be the most relaxed. Don't do this when the tree is carrying fruit. Harvest the fruits, let the tree chill out for a couple weeks after you pull the fruits, then do it. The stress may actually cause flowering.
I have a grafted - Mexico -cold hardy avocado tree but I don’t a think it is a Stewart like yours. I’m interested in finding out how your tree does in a raised bed. I haven’t planted mine in one yet and it is looking weary. I have to make a move soon. Thanks for your timely video!
Keep in mind the raised bed is open bottom, so it's no different than planting it in-ground, just with better drainage. It should perform identically to my Lila, except hopefully fruit earlier in its life. Avocado trees are *notorious* for not doing well in containers. They need to go in-ground.
Great video as always! Do you source your dwarf fruit trees from four winds as well or can you make a recommendation? I’m in the Columbia SC area, zone 8. Thanks in advance!
Thanks! If you’re referring to citrus, all my grafted citrus trees are from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. Stan grafts his on trifoliate, which is ideal for my climate. I don’t want the rootstocks they use over in California. Wrong soil, wrong climate. Their citrus is more geared for the west coast. You should drive to see Stan. He’s barely an hour from you. Tell him I sent you.
Thanks! Avocado trees generally do not do well in containers. Every avocado grower I've ever talked to specifically states avocados are one of the worst fruit trees to grow in a container possible as they don't fruit very well. It has been done, but it's apparently very difficult, and there are other species of fruit trees that will do much better in pots (like figs, mangoes, coffee, dragonfruit, etc.). I haven't tried it, but I've always been discouraged from growing an avocado tree in a pot.
Not the choice I was expecting... I thought MG would pick one of the other Texas varieties. My conclusion with Stewart is that it's not as cold-hardy as the internet lore claims. It also seemed to be a variety that once damaged by frost, continues to degrade. It can bounce back, though. I'm in the 8A zone, and mine died down to just 2 or 3 inches of grafted trunk, but it did successfully grow 3 large stems during the summer.
I don't particularly buy into these temperature ratings on avocado trees. These temps that say "hardy to the teens" means somewhere, a mature tree with a 6-10 inch caliper got zapped, died down but lived above the graft, then re-sprouted. I don't want that to happen. Basically, any avocado tree will take damage at 25 degrees. Some just take more damage than others, so I'm assuming I will need to keep this tree warmer than 24-25F at all times, no matter what. The reason why I went with Stewart is it is supposed to have the best quality fruit of all the pure Mexican types, aside from maybe Puebla, which is *really* an unknown since it hasn't been shared much outside of California and is a *gigantic* tree. Stewart is a small tree with some of the best fruit and is known to produce heavily early, so it ticked the most important boxes. The Texas varieties don't have very good fruit, so I don't want to go through the trouble for a tree that produces mediocre fruit. I think I can get the Stewart to work, but we'll see what the winter brings. Hopefully, we get a mild one so it has a year to establish before it faces anything rough.
What kind of dog is Dale? Just by looks I'd guess he's got some Boxer and Pit or American Bulldog. I've got a German Shepherd and shes a beautiful, smart, protective and sometimes too active dog. But as you know, our dogs are just as much a part of the family as everyone else.
Hope you do not get problems from the pine roots growing quickly into the nutritious soil you added to the bed......i have had this problem,with fir roots growing into pots sunk just an inch into the ground. The trees did great for a year or so,and then started slowing down,etc......i found out that the fir trees nearby had sent roots up into the pots, and were sucking all the water,nutrients,etc. Away from the trees. I cut the roots,and isolated the pots from the soil so that would not happen,and the trees recovered and were happy again. Well established trees will send roots into new soil faster than new trees,and can sort of suffocate them. Best wishes. Best wishes.
By the time the avocado tree roots reach the bottom of the bed, they will be vigorous enough to compete. I want competition between trees. I need this avocado to stay dwarfed.
Good luck.let us know how it turns out in the future. I was just saying,in my experience the big trees will get their roots in the new soil,and take over,way before the small one.
Avocado trees do not grow true to type, so there are no real, stable rootstocks. The rootstocks are seed-grown, usually from a Mexican avocado (but not always), so the thought process is that they will be somewhat similar to the parent tree. I don't know what seedling they used. Probably a seed from a Zutano or something. Zutano seeds are commonly used for rootstock in California, but if you plant 100 Zutano seeds, you'll get 100 different trees.
We have a volunteer peach, first year giving fruit. Can’t be older then 4 years and is loaded. I even knocked some down earlier in the year. Luckiest part, fruit appears to be edible. The ducks are getting on it. Appeared from our “compost pile” which is now a bunch of kpods
I'm familiar with it. It's not cold hardy enough for where I live and has a lot of West Indian lineage. It is believed to be a Monroe seedling, so it's more of a Central Florida variety. It would also be very difficult to ripen that type of fruit here due to our cold winters, because the fruits are very large.
Would this work in 7b? Near a south facing boundary fence. Mostly shade in summer, full sun in winter? Also, got another question...Does Spinosad concentrate need to be refrigerated after opening? I left a bottle in the shed, for a week or so. Now it's not as effective against these flea beetles and leaf footed bugs.
I'm in an 8A zone that was classified as 7B until the USDA update. About 4 out of 10 years there will be a night under 10 degrees. I'm of the belief that the hardiest Texas variety avocados could be grown in ground in 7B, but you will certainly need electric heat and must cover the trees. Where I live, a bad winter might have a 3 day stretch where that's necessary. In a true 7B zone, you could have a cold snap that lasts several days necessitating manual intervention.
If you're talking about this method of planting, it would work anywhere. If you're talking about growing a cold hardy avocado, it would be very difficult in Zone 7b. I am in 8b, and this is going to be a bit of a challenge for me, because I will need to reliably add 10 degrees of protection every winter. In 7b, you'd have to add 15-20 degrees of protection on your coldest nights, which would be hard without a heated enclosure. The other problem with 7b is you spend entire consecutive days below freezing, which is devastating to a tree like this. They can take a freeze, but it has to be very brief and warm up quickly, so they would need a way to warm up into the 50's every single day. Is it possible? Yes, anything is possible with the right design, but if I were in 7b, I would not bother with an avocado, especially as my first attempt at zone-pushing. If you want to challenge yourself, I would tell you to try a very cold hardy citrus like a Yuzu tree. I think you can grow Yuzu with protection, which can be used like a lemon. Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC, will ship you a grafted Yuzu tree if he has some in stock. They can take 10 degrees when established, and I know my methods easily add 10 degrees of protection, so 7b is definitely possible for Yuzu. If you find success with citrus and perfect your methods, maybe then try an avocado one day, but the most cold hardy citrus varieties would be a better choice in my opinion. See my cold protection methods here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIG1w1u_K6CDIhfsqG8dMnPj&si=tO6oEBJzMehc3tyC
Summer is the rainy season. I do not plant evergreen trees when it is dry. Fall is for planting dormant trees. For evergreens or actively growing trees, plant when it rains. Planting citrus or avocado trees in fall when it is dry and cold would be a disaster. They’d never establish and likely die.
@TheMillennialGardener - Is that bronze fennel growing behind you in the intro? I grew it for the first time this year and I'm obsessed with the aroma. Especially the pollen I harvest from the open flowers. It's on another level
Dales hiney at night. lol. I planted a ‘Fruit Salad’ tree about 5 months ago. 4 stone trees grafted on one trunk. It was doing great up until about a month ago and now it appears to be dying. After watching this video I’m thinking it’s a drainage problem. Should I dig it up and try the planter method. Thank you in anticipation.
I had a similar problem with my Coffee Cake persimmon. We got so much rain since July 1 that it started to wilt. I had planted it in late winter, so I guess the young bare root tree couldn't handle it. I dug it up and relocated it into a pot in hopes it'll survive. If it is starting to wilt, you probably have no choice, unfortunately. Hopefully, it isn't too late.
Can I ask a question about cantaloupe. There is nothing on internet . On the vine was 3 cantaloupe. I have already picked 2 and they were amazing but the 3rd one is a runt lits eft on the vine. My question is will it continue to grow an be amazing an sweet like the other two ? The two I already picked were ready at the same time or is the vine done ?
You mentioned grafting stock that your citrus trees are grafted on to - did you do this or buy them that way? Curious because I have heavy clay soil and 50” rain a year on average. Lots of poor drainage where I am and was thinking this is something I need to explore.
I've never used it. It's very expensive, so my thought process is if I've never needed it before and have had nearly 100% transplant success, I don't need something else to buy. I've been pretty successful using good old fashioned fertilizer.
I just came across your channel. I need help. I planted tomatoes, watermelon, cantaloupe, cucumber, zucchini, ghost pepper, orange pepper and giant pumpkin. Everything grew good but my cantaloupe and watermelon didn't produce any fruit. Your setup is far superior to mine. I live in about Detroit Michigan and my tomatoes, orange pepper, ghost pepper, zucchini and cucumber plants all did and are still doing good, aside from my cucumbers which have stopped flowering and died. I'm curious if it's possible that I didn't have enough insect/bee pollination going on. I manually polinated my zucchini and tapped my tomato and pepper flowers. I don't know if that's necessary but they're producing good, except I still have a ton of green tomatoes because only 3 have ripened so far. A couple weeks after I pollinated my zucchini they started producing on their own. I guess I'm asking you if my garden being to small could be why I didn't get any watermelon or cantaloupe. I thought I spaced everything out sufficiently when I planted everything but unfortunately my tomatoes overtook my peppers and my watermelon and cantaloupe are between them and my cucumbers. The cucumbers grew a lot more than I was expecting. I kinds lost sight of which plants were mt watermelon and cantaloupe but I thought I would just see watermelon and cantaloupe in there somewhere, but nothing. Is it a necessity to have plenty of space between plants and different vegetables and fruit? Is there something you know that I did wrong just by my message (I'm sorry it is so long and I hope you take the time to read and respond to this) I'm going to subscribe and watch more of your content. Thanks for the help???
P.S. I my soil is fairly sandy but has good drainage. Also I forgot I planted strawberries too. There was a few berries on the plants when I planted them but I got nothing from them. I don't even see the plants anymore
Ok,ok! I’ve been watching your show for years. But you always say all natural mulches are OK. But I have definitely found that cedar, Cypress and all other pine mulch have lowered my PH to 4 to 5 from the 6 to 6.5 I like to grow in. I’m a pretty experienced grower, have you not experienced the same?
Give Gary matsuoka's ideal soil a watch. He said compost or organic matter shouldn't be mixed in the soil. This might be an issue for your new avocado since you mixed in a lot of organic matter. Did you mix on organic matter for your other in ground avocado tree?
Question - what do you do with all your garden fruits and veggies? I have a garden a 1/8 the size of yours and am always trying to figure out what to do with the excess produce.
I eat almost all of them. Simply stop buying produce. Only buy meat, eggs and dairy. Force yourself to eat your yard. People don't know what to do with the harvests, because they don't change their shopping habits. Literally force yourself to eat what's in season and you'll burn through it quickly.
I noticed your blue shed is installed on level blocks. I just had a greenhouse installed in similar fashion. My question is, have you ever had a problem with critters making a home under it? I’m debating if I should have a barrier installed as we are on acreage in a rural setting. Lots of deer, foxes and smaller critters. Not sure if I will do this or if I’m being too concerned.
Yes. Rabbits nested under it, and they bred and nibbled all my low-hanging container figs in the spring. It was a little annoying, and it drove Dale nuts. Next year, I'm going to have to fence off the bottom with lattice somehow. The blocks stick out further than the shed sides, so it is going to be a little annoying to fence in.
Thanks for the vids👍🏻, are you familiar with rootmaker pots by Dr Whitcomb?, supposedly superior for root development for trees and bushes, thought I'd mention since you experiment/test stuff.
Avocado trees should never be grown in a container for fruit, so something like that would not work in this case. For permanently container grown trees, like my figs, I have not tried them.
@@TheMillennialGardener i wonder if using them to train/develop the root system for trees before permanently planting them would be effective and worthwhile....
Wet. It wasn't really a wind storm. It was just 15.5 inches of awful. I live on a hill, so there wasn't flooding in my general area. The ground here is like a sieve. But, we have a a very rainy forecast for the next 3-4 days, and there is another serious tropical threat in the Atlantic right now the GFS model is projecting to hit the Carolinas. We'll see.
Is your avocado tree type A or B? If you plant another variety that is the other type of avocado both trees will benefit, fruit more. Do the research. Also, if your tree is not grafted it will be very slow to produce. I'm in southern California. Most of us grow grafted trees. Hope this helps.
This is a bit random. But do you reuse the soil in your pots? You have a big container garden. Will you buy new soil come next year. Or reuse the old stuff. Since you fertilize i figured you can just keep using the same soil , no?
Avocado tap roots do not care about water. It's the smaller capillary ones that can't be waterlogged and will succumb to fungi. This is why a lot of people grow avocados from pits using that silly method using toothpicks over water - because it's of no consequence to root rot. I have 28 different varieties of avocados growing in Florida with a water table less than 2 feet under the ground. Never been a problem unless it completely floods the surface.
It is not necessary to have a Type A and Type B avocado. Most varieties are self-fruitful in most climates. If you are growing commercially, it's worth planting roughly one B-type for every six A-type trees to increase fruit set, but for backyard growers, it's generally not needed. One tree will probably give the typical household too much at once to use as-is once they get going.
You misunderstood. I said this would increase yield. I never said it was necessary or needed. But it would increase yield for both the back yard grower as well as commercial growers.
This is discussed in detail in the video. That's what is needed in my case. I am growing dwarfing varieties. Giving the tree 5 feet of great drainage is a huge difference compared to only 3.5 feet, and as I said in the video, there are even deeper raised beds, which are linked in the video description.
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If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share it to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching🙂TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 Planting Trees In Heavy Soil
4:15 Trees That Tolerate Poor Drainage
5:10 How To Maximize Soil Drainage
6:34 Digging A Test Hole
8:57 How To Make Well Draining Soil Mix
10:10 My New Avocado Tree Selection
12:02 How To Plant A Tree In A Raised Garden Bed
13:53 The Best Mulches To Use
15:09 Results 23 Days Later And Final Tips
17:48 Adventures With Dale
Dude Millennial Gardener, wasn't there a Hurricane Debby right over top of your house 4 hours ago? What a legend, still putting out content in the garden right in a hurricane
I filmed this beforehand. It's been raining for 7 days straight. 15.5 inches so far. The avocado tree looks great, though. The raised bed drained those 15.5 inches with ease.
@@TheMillennialGardener Wow man mother nature sure can be relentless. I'm glad everything drained and is holding up. You weren't kidding about how tough the weather is there in zone 8/Carolinas. I'm right above you in zone 7b Charleston/WV. Thanks for all you do the Videos are great. Stay safe.
Thank you for all of your gardening information. Very helpful.
Hi, I'm so glad you're getting more avocado trees. I'm also in an 8b borderline avocado situation and I've planted over 80 seeds this year to see if I can find something that can take our winters. About 40 of those seeds were daughters of Hass, so probably not very cold hardy (although Hass has quite a bit of Mexican genes in it and who knows what type the father trees were) and about 40 were from "wild Mexican" fruit (unnamed varieties) and I'm hoping those can do well. I don't really care about varieties or getting fruit as long as I can get any avocado tree to survive here. One thing I've heard is that seedlings are generally stronger than grafted trees. Another thing I've noticed is that the Mexican seeds sprouted so fast compared to the Hass, despite having roughly the same size seed -- most of my Mexican seeds germinated within 2 weeks of putting in water, some as little as two days, whereas my Hass-fruit seeds often took 8 weeks or more. Anyway, I'm looking forward to more avocado updates!!
M.G. Very glad to see this video. I live in Sebastian,Florida. LOTS of sand. I have two Orchards,one in ground,the other,potted or raised Orchard. My point is. The in ground is very slow growing,especially the Avacodos. Only 6 inches in two years. BUT, the potted, plants with my special mix,soil. The fruit trees, growing 3X, in the same period of time. Next time you visit your property,if u want to visit me i Sebastian you are welcome.
You have done an amazing job with your backyard. The trees border your property beautifully. I enjoy the before and after photos. It's a diary of dedication and success.
Thank you. It's been a very fun and rewarding 6 years.
I like your approach for alternative planting rather than completely given up. Thank you for this valuable video content. Give Dale a huge hug for me😊
Thanks. I never give up. I'm having issues with a few plants I planted back there from all this rain, so this is hopefully a viable alternative.
👍we just did this with peach trees here in Australia. The raised beds were deeper, so I used chopped up branches/leaves in the base with some lime, then packed it up with coconut coir, soil and manure. If have a manure question. Sheep shit, cow shit or chook shit? We went with sheep shit because I read that it is less something, like acidic, or something... ? I am a beginner so I follow ewe! 😂😂 Belinda
You have to be careful doing that. The goal of planting a tree in a raised bed is to increase the drainage while keeping the bed open at the bottom so the roots penetrate into the native soil eventually and the tree can realize its full potential. If you are placing all those branches at the bottom, you're going to create a water-holding layer, which is what you're trying to avoid. It's possible that could harm the tree. You may also block the taproot's access into the native soil, which will confine the tree almost like growing it in a container. You don't want to confine the tree. You want it to grow and not be limited. Otherwise, you may as well leave it in a container.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks! It is great advice as I have more to go. The one I planted is a dwarf, so pot suitable. But the rest are bigger. You probably saved the lives of 3 trees! 🤣 "if a tree falls in a forest, does anybody hear", who cares about people, people suck! 💜💜👍🤣🦘🦘😊
Thanks for the knowledge, MG!👍
Dale is too cute! 🐕 Thanks for sharing his cuteness with us.😃
You’re welcome! Dale is such a good playmate. He has gotten really great at it.
Hi Anthony, You would be surprised at how many people you are helping with these videos. People asks me about avacado and other citrus trees. Thank god you are out there for information. I do hope Hurricane Debie didn't beat you up too bad. I sure were thinking of you and hoping you and your garden survives ok. your friend Jessie from Arkansas
I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful. Debby was bad. Not really any wind, but 17 inches of rain has fallen over the last week. Rainfall damage takes a long time to show, so we have to see if anything drowns. Some of my new bare root trees I planted in the spring that were previously doing well are not happy.
Did this with my citrus tree on top of clay, worked out well
Excellent! Glad to hear it!
Thanks for the awesome videos! My garden is doing better than ever after using your tips. Much appreciated!
I'm glad to hear the videos are helping! Thanks for watching!
Really good video Anthony. I know you will succeed with the new avocado tree. Hope to see the super secret tree planted in Florida too. Thanks for sharing.
At the Florida property I would recommend the West Indies cherry, or the Barbados cherry.
Not a true cherry but wonderful fruiting bush, very fast growing once they establish themselves and fruit heavily.
I've seen them before, but the challenge for me will be tasting these fruits before I plant them since we can't find them anywhere else in the US. If/when the day finally comes that I transition down to the Florida property, I'm going to have to go on a regional fruit tasting tour 😅
@@TheMillennialGardener Yeah, that is completely fair.
I didn't hear you say anything about this so thought I would mention it because locations along the SE US can be OK or terrible, with SOME places being good for trees like this, or a LOT of trees for that matter. That area depending on where you are isn't good for many types of trees, but if you grow dwarf varieties and the water table is far enough down you can get away with growing trees that aren't ideal for that location.
Step 1. KNOW where the water table is in your yard in the lowest and highest points. So, how many feet down is it to where you have standing water. This is VERY different than checking how well the soil drains. It's also best to check the water table during the wetter time of the year, but not when it's been raining. So, you get a period of rain and then it's dry for 3 - 4 days and THEN you check. There's only one good way I know of checking and that's digging holes. You know when you're at the water table because the hole will start filling up and usually the soil changes.
Step 2. Check the type of tree you're going to grow and see how it deals with roots in the water table, also check the type of root system it has along with its spread. I see that small raised bed and I can't figure out what that's supposed to do unless it's a small tree with a very small spread near the surface.
Step 3. You need to know how many hours your location has below freezing if you want to grow different fruit trees and you need to know how many hours of below freezing temps the tree needs. This applies to apples, pears and a few other common fruit trees grown in the US. If you don't get enough below freezing time during the winter, the tree doesn't have a good sap cycle (Fall, sap starts to move down to the roots, Spring, sap starts moving back up to produce growth). Without a proper cycle for the tree it won't be a good producer of fruit.
It stinks to get a tree to a stage it should be fruiting only to find out it doesn't fruit well because of the conditions there.
A lot of indigenous trees in that part of the country are used to having roots in the water table. Most fruit trees on the other hand don't tolerate that very well.
Funny, I randomly just used Four Winds. Same thoughts as you on what I ordered, really healthy plants. Nice boxing situation as well, plants were very protected and very happy when I got them.
They were excellent. Nice people, too. I recommend.
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Looks fantastic! I anticipated the variety you chose and also bought a Stewart. Mine had some severe transplant shock and lost its leaves but no doubt will recover. I’m excited to see how the fruit looks is a couple years.
Stewart looks to be the best quality of the commonly available Mexican avocados. I'm looking forward to its fruit!
I love your videos and because of you I am the proud owner of an owari and a ichiro persimmon. I was wondering if in the time you had your avocado tree planted next to your house have you had any issues (foundation and whatnot). I have a free spot next to my house like yours and I would like plant the Stewart. Thank you for your time and keep the videos coming. You are such a great teacher ❤
So cool, loved this video. I have some clay in my Houston garden, I can totally use this method now-yay!
Interesting that you used top soil to fill the bed while majority advises on using potting soils or other fluffier options. Can you share some insights into your selection of filler?
Excellent! Just learned a lot! I just purchased those same raised beds❤️❤️❤️
Glad it was helpful! The beds are pretty nice. I’m satisfied.
Great choice with Stewart. Mine is a beast in a 25g growbag.
I am really excited about it.
@@TheMillennialGardener I had some fruit on mine last year when the tree was 2 years old and it was delicious. Hope it works out for you!
❤ That Dale is the best!
He is so sweet.
I had not thought of dwarf varieties having shallower roots. That's a nice proposition for my clay soil, though it's a bit scary when I think of the high winds we can encounter.
Thank you❗️❤️👍
You're welcome!
nice video, 💯
Thank you!
I planted my dwarf Redhaven peach tree in a 4 foot diameter 24 inch high raised bed even though my soil drains well, because my entire property has a rock layer about 16 inches deep, which makes digging a hole for a tree impossible for me since I'm in my eighties. The rocks aren't big, but they are large enough and numerous enough that even a strong guy can't drive in a T post below the spade. When we put in some 4 by 4 posts tp make my garden enclosure, the landscaper had to use a sit on caterpillar drive power auger. He said it was the worst time he had ever had in his career digging post holes. My question is this: Should I surround that raised bed with mulch for winter protection? I live in zone 6 and we can get into the teens in the winter. I'm concerned that the raised bed is too exposed to keep the tree's roots from freezing. What should I use? Straw bales, burlap, or what? Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
The only drawback I could see with raising the bed is that the 18" of soil is now up higher in the frost zone come winter time. Would you string lights around the metal and jacket the whole thing to get around that? If that root ball freezes during one of our 15° stretches, it's game over for the tree too.
Cold air settles, so actually getting it up a couple feet gets the graft above where cold air settles. Because it's in the rear property, it will not be getting any lights. It'll only get water barrels like my citrus, so it'll be an interesting experiment. The water barrels kept my citrus at 24F when it was 14F outside, and I since added another, so I'm rolling the dice.
That makes sense. I guess that's partly why the banana wrap does so well insulating the pseudostem each winter.
Good info to know when i plant some in the future. i would have inserted some vertical root barriers in the ground to limit competition from the pine tree roots. Being that it is in the corner of 2 fences, i imagine you will be able to easily construct a temporary greenhouse over it in the colder seasons to help keep the tree warm/alive. Shalom
By the time the avocado tree breaks through the bed bottom, it’ll be able to compete with the pine roots. I actually want the tree to be dwarfed, so competition is good.
👍
I have a Eureka lemon, a bay laurel, and a key lime in Houston Tx. All of them are in containers, both so I can bring them inside when it gets too cold, and because all we have is that "muck" you mentioned. I have noticed that the container soil level has fallen, which is normal, but if I top the containers up with soil, I'd be burying the graft line (on the grafted trees), which I know I shouldn't do. What do you recommend in that situation? Do I need to basically up-pot the trees each year? If so, what time of year is best?
Thank you! I hope you, your garden and your family are doing ok after this hurricane. Those are not fun at all.
I planted a bay laurel in-ground, and I'm in 8b. I would think a bay laurel will be OK your way. The eureka and key limes are probably a stretch. My key lime has to be put in my sunroom, but I put a Eustis Limequat in ground, which apparently has extremely similar fruit and is hardy to about 20F. Maybe look into that. For your tree, I would just pull the roots, cut some off and re-pot it with some fresh soil. I have a video on root pruning here: ruclips.net/video/-oOwNiZzGmM/видео.htmlsi=A4kqiag_qKP9mcJ5
Root pruning is typically done to deciduous trees when they're dormant. Since citrus doesn't go dormant, you probably want to do this after you've harvested all the fruit, since that's when the tree will be the most relaxed. Don't do this when the tree is carrying fruit. Harvest the fruits, let the tree chill out for a couple weeks after you pull the fruits, then do it. The stress may actually cause flowering.
@@TheMillennialGardener Awesome, I will definitely do that! Thank you! I really appreciate it
It appears that you live off your garden? Which is great and very wise.🙂
I have a grafted - Mexico -cold hardy avocado tree but I don’t a think it is a Stewart like yours. I’m interested in finding out how your tree does in a raised bed. I haven’t planted mine in one yet and it is looking weary. I have to make a move soon. Thanks for your timely video!
Keep in mind the raised bed is open bottom, so it's no different than planting it in-ground, just with better drainage. It should perform identically to my Lila, except hopefully fruit earlier in its life. Avocado trees are *notorious* for not doing well in containers. They need to go in-ground.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you! I did not know that! I was told it could grow in a container 😳
Great video as always! Do you source your dwarf fruit trees from four winds as well or can you make a recommendation? I’m in the Columbia SC area, zone 8. Thanks in advance!
Thanks! If you’re referring to citrus, all my grafted citrus trees are from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. Stan grafts his on trifoliate, which is ideal for my climate. I don’t want the rootstocks they use over in California. Wrong soil, wrong climate. Their citrus is more geared for the west coast. You should drive to see Stan. He’s barely an hour from you. Tell him I sent you.
Great info and I will look into Stan. Thank you, Sir! Grow on!!
Thanks for this information 🎉great video! Is there a variety of avocados that can be planted in containers?
Thanks! Avocado trees generally do not do well in containers. Every avocado grower I've ever talked to specifically states avocados are one of the worst fruit trees to grow in a container possible as they don't fruit very well. It has been done, but it's apparently very difficult, and there are other species of fruit trees that will do much better in pots (like figs, mangoes, coffee, dragonfruit, etc.). I haven't tried it, but I've always been discouraged from growing an avocado tree in a pot.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you! I’ve read that but wanted to ask the expert 😊 hopefully my sister will let me plant it on her property 😆
Not the choice I was expecting... I thought MG would pick one of the other Texas varieties. My conclusion with Stewart is that it's not as cold-hardy as the internet lore claims. It also seemed to be a variety that once damaged by frost, continues to degrade. It can bounce back, though. I'm in the 8A zone, and mine died down to just 2 or 3 inches of grafted trunk, but it did successfully grow 3 large stems during the summer.
I don't particularly buy into these temperature ratings on avocado trees. These temps that say "hardy to the teens" means somewhere, a mature tree with a 6-10 inch caliper got zapped, died down but lived above the graft, then re-sprouted. I don't want that to happen. Basically, any avocado tree will take damage at 25 degrees. Some just take more damage than others, so I'm assuming I will need to keep this tree warmer than 24-25F at all times, no matter what. The reason why I went with Stewart is it is supposed to have the best quality fruit of all the pure Mexican types, aside from maybe Puebla, which is *really* an unknown since it hasn't been shared much outside of California and is a *gigantic* tree. Stewart is a small tree with some of the best fruit and is known to produce heavily early, so it ticked the most important boxes. The Texas varieties don't have very good fruit, so I don't want to go through the trouble for a tree that produces mediocre fruit. I think I can get the Stewart to work, but we'll see what the winter brings. Hopefully, we get a mild one so it has a year to establish before it faces anything rough.
What kind of dog is Dale? Just by looks I'd guess he's got some Boxer and Pit or American Bulldog. I've got a German Shepherd and shes a beautiful, smart, protective and sometimes too active dog. But as you know, our dogs are just as much a part of the family as everyone else.
Dale is a rescue mutt. He's half American Foxhound and a mix of several different things.
Hope you do not get problems from the pine roots growing quickly into the nutritious soil you added to the bed......i have had this problem,with fir roots growing into pots sunk just an inch into the ground.
The trees did great for a year or so,and then started slowing down,etc......i found out that the fir trees nearby had sent roots up into the pots, and were sucking all the water,nutrients,etc. Away from the trees. I cut the roots,and isolated the pots from the soil so that would not happen,and the trees recovered and were happy again.
Well established trees will send roots into new soil faster than new trees,and can sort of suffocate them.
Best wishes.
Best wishes.
By the time the avocado tree roots reach the bottom of the bed, they will be vigorous enough to compete. I want competition between trees. I need this avocado to stay dwarfed.
Good luck.let us know how it turns out in the future. I was just saying,in my experience the big trees will get their roots in the new soil,and take over,way before the small one.
I just bought a Little Miss Figgy for 75% off at Lowes...about $10 and an olive tree and a lime tree!
Congrats!
Hi, do you know on what rootstocks are grafted your avocado trees?
Avocado trees do not grow true to type, so there are no real, stable rootstocks. The rootstocks are seed-grown, usually from a Mexican avocado (but not always), so the thought process is that they will be somewhat similar to the parent tree. I don't know what seedling they used. Probably a seed from a Zutano or something. Zutano seeds are commonly used for rootstock in California, but if you plant 100 Zutano seeds, you'll get 100 different trees.
We have a volunteer peach, first year giving fruit. Can’t be older then 4 years and is loaded. I even knocked some down earlier in the year.
Luckiest part, fruit appears to be edible. The ducks are getting on it. Appeared from our “compost pile” which is now a bunch of kpods
That’s good fortune. It usually takes longer. Hopefully they are good quality. It will take 3-4 years for the fruit to show its true colors.
Look up Ore Negro avocado.
taste is better than great, and has decent cold weather resistance
I'm familiar with it. It's not cold hardy enough for where I live and has a lot of West Indian lineage. It is believed to be a Monroe seedling, so it's more of a Central Florida variety. It would also be very difficult to ripen that type of fruit here due to our cold winters, because the fruits are very large.
Would this work in 7b? Near a south facing boundary fence. Mostly shade in summer, full sun in winter? Also, got another question...Does Spinosad concentrate need to be refrigerated after opening? I left a bottle in the shed, for a week or so. Now it's not as effective against these flea beetles and leaf footed bugs.
I'm in an 8A zone that was classified as 7B until the USDA update. About 4 out of 10 years there will be a night under 10 degrees. I'm of the belief that the hardiest Texas variety avocados could be grown in ground in 7B, but you will certainly need electric heat and must cover the trees. Where I live, a bad winter might have a 3 day stretch where that's necessary. In a true 7B zone, you could have a cold snap that lasts several days necessitating manual intervention.
@@Avo7bProject sounds about right. I'm in NW metro Atlanta, Ga. Not sure if this zone changed. Thank you.
If you're talking about this method of planting, it would work anywhere. If you're talking about growing a cold hardy avocado, it would be very difficult in Zone 7b. I am in 8b, and this is going to be a bit of a challenge for me, because I will need to reliably add 10 degrees of protection every winter. In 7b, you'd have to add 15-20 degrees of protection on your coldest nights, which would be hard without a heated enclosure. The other problem with 7b is you spend entire consecutive days below freezing, which is devastating to a tree like this. They can take a freeze, but it has to be very brief and warm up quickly, so they would need a way to warm up into the 50's every single day. Is it possible? Yes, anything is possible with the right design, but if I were in 7b, I would not bother with an avocado, especially as my first attempt at zone-pushing. If you want to challenge yourself, I would tell you to try a very cold hardy citrus like a Yuzu tree. I think you can grow Yuzu with protection, which can be used like a lemon. Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC, will ship you a grafted Yuzu tree if he has some in stock. They can take 10 degrees when established, and I know my methods easily add 10 degrees of protection, so 7b is definitely possible for Yuzu.
If you find success with citrus and perfect your methods, maybe then try an avocado one day, but the most cold hardy citrus varieties would be a better choice in my opinion.
See my cold protection methods here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIG1w1u_K6CDIhfsqG8dMnPj&si=tO6oEBJzMehc3tyC
Why did you plant it in the middle of summer instead of fall or spring? Falls the best time to plan trees here in South Texas zone 8B. Thanks
Summer is the rainy season. I do not plant evergreen trees when it is dry. Fall is for planting dormant trees. For evergreens or actively growing trees, plant when it rains. Planting citrus or avocado trees in fall when it is dry and cold would be a disaster. They’d never establish and likely die.
@@TheMillennialGardener Good explanation thank you for your time Anthony.
@TheMillennialGardener - Is that bronze fennel growing behind you in the intro? I grew it for the first time this year and I'm obsessed with the aroma. Especially the pollen I harvest from the open flowers. It's on another level
I think you're looking at my asparagus. That is the fern-like growth they send up during the warm season.
Dales hiney at night. lol. I planted a ‘Fruit Salad’ tree about 5 months ago. 4 stone trees grafted on one trunk. It was doing great up until about a month ago and now it appears to be dying. After watching this video I’m thinking it’s a drainage problem. Should I dig it up and try the planter method. Thank you in anticipation.
I had a similar problem with my Coffee Cake persimmon. We got so much rain since July 1 that it started to wilt. I had planted it in late winter, so I guess the young bare root tree couldn't handle it. I dug it up and relocated it into a pot in hopes it'll survive. If it is starting to wilt, you probably have no choice, unfortunately. Hopefully, it isn't too late.
Thank you so much for your reply. I’ve made the decision to dig up and put in large pot. Will keep you posted. ❤️to Dale
Can I ask a question about cantaloupe. There is nothing on internet . On the vine was 3 cantaloupe. I have already picked 2 and they were amazing but the 3rd one is a runt lits eft on the vine. My question is will it continue to grow an be amazing an sweet like the other two ? The two I already picked were ready at the same time or is the vine done ?
what was your career before youtubing?
I'm an engineer. I still work full-time.
You mentioned grafting stock that your citrus trees are grafted on to - did you do this or buy them that way? Curious because I have heavy clay soil and 50” rain a year on average. Lots of poor drainage where I am and was thinking this is something I need to explore.
Very nice! Out of curiosity why didn’t you use Mycorrhizae when planting? Did you find you had better results without using it?
I've never used it. It's very expensive, so my thought process is if I've never needed it before and have had nearly 100% transplant success, I don't need something else to buy. I've been pretty successful using good old fashioned fertilizer.
I just came across your channel. I need help. I planted tomatoes, watermelon, cantaloupe, cucumber, zucchini, ghost pepper, orange pepper and giant pumpkin. Everything grew good but my cantaloupe and watermelon didn't produce any fruit. Your setup is far superior to mine. I live in about Detroit Michigan and my tomatoes, orange pepper, ghost pepper, zucchini and cucumber plants all did and are still doing good, aside from my cucumbers which have stopped flowering and died. I'm curious if it's possible that I didn't have enough insect/bee pollination going on. I manually polinated my zucchini and tapped my tomato and pepper flowers. I don't know if that's necessary but they're producing good, except I still have a ton of green tomatoes because only 3 have ripened so far. A couple weeks after I pollinated my zucchini they started producing on their own. I guess I'm asking you if my garden being to small could be why I didn't get any watermelon or cantaloupe. I thought I spaced everything out sufficiently when I planted everything but unfortunately my tomatoes overtook my peppers and my watermelon and cantaloupe are between them and my cucumbers. The cucumbers grew a lot more than I was expecting. I kinds lost sight of which plants were mt watermelon and cantaloupe but I thought I would just see watermelon and cantaloupe in there somewhere, but nothing. Is it a necessity to have plenty of space between plants and different vegetables and fruit? Is there something you know that I did wrong just by my message (I'm sorry it is so long and I hope you take the time to read and respond to this) I'm going to subscribe and watch more of your content. Thanks for the help???
P.S. I my soil is fairly sandy but has good drainage. Also I forgot I planted strawberries too. There was a few berries on the plants when I planted them but I got nothing from them. I don't even see the plants anymore
Ok,ok! I’ve been watching your show for years. But you always say all natural mulches are OK. But I have definitely found that cedar, Cypress and all other pine mulch have lowered my PH to 4 to 5 from the 6 to 6.5 I like to grow in. I’m a pretty experienced grower, have you not experienced the same?
Give Gary matsuoka's ideal soil a watch. He said compost or organic matter shouldn't be mixed in the soil. This might be an issue for your new avocado since you mixed in a lot of organic matter.
Did you mix on organic matter for your other in ground avocado tree?
Question - what do you do with all your garden fruits and veggies? I have a garden a 1/8 the size of yours and am always trying to figure out what to do with the excess produce.
I eat almost all of them. Simply stop buying produce. Only buy meat, eggs and dairy. Force yourself to eat your yard. People don't know what to do with the harvests, because they don't change their shopping habits. Literally force yourself to eat what's in season and you'll burn through it quickly.
Some other gardeners contact local food banks.
Hello
Hi!
Your a good gardener
I noticed your blue shed is installed on level blocks. I just had a greenhouse installed in similar fashion. My question is, have you ever had a problem with critters making a home under it? I’m debating if I should have a barrier installed as we are on acreage in a rural setting. Lots of deer, foxes and smaller critters. Not sure if I will do this or if I’m being too concerned.
Yes. Rabbits nested under it, and they bred and nibbled all my low-hanging container figs in the spring. It was a little annoying, and it drove Dale nuts. Next year, I'm going to have to fence off the bottom with lattice somehow. The blocks stick out further than the shed sides, so it is going to be a little annoying to fence in.
Thanks for the vids👍🏻, are you familiar with rootmaker pots by Dr Whitcomb?, supposedly superior for root development for trees and bushes, thought I'd mention since you experiment/test stuff.
Avocado trees should never be grown in a container for fruit, so something like that would not work in this case. For permanently container grown trees, like my figs, I have not tried them.
@@TheMillennialGardener i wonder if using them to train/develop the root system for trees before permanently planting them would be effective and worthwhile....
how long until pomegranate tree video
I don’t know yet. Depends how long it takes to fruit. Probably 3 years if I had to guess.
How did you fare in Tropical Storm Debby?
Wet. It wasn't really a wind storm. It was just 15.5 inches of awful. I live on a hill, so there wasn't flooding in my general area. The ground here is like a sieve. But, we have a a very rainy forecast for the next 3-4 days, and there is another serious tropical threat in the Atlantic right now the GFS model is projecting to hit the Carolinas. We'll see.
@@TheMillennialGardener yes I’ve been watching it. I live in Southwest Florida so I’m always watching the tropics this time of year!
Is your avocado tree type A or B? If you plant another variety that is the other type of avocado both trees will benefit, fruit more. Do the research. Also, if your tree is not grafted it will be very slow to produce.
I'm in southern California. Most of us grow grafted trees. Hope this helps.
This is a bit random. But do you reuse the soil in your pots? You have a big container garden. Will you buy new soil come next year. Or reuse the old stuff. Since you fertilize i figured you can just keep using the same soil , no?
I refresh the soil. I have a video on how I rehab my containers here: ruclips.net/video/m-fvstZY-FY/видео.htmlsi=As41k-zVjo9Mvjgu
I dug up about 2 feet of soil and replaced it with bags of new soil for my peach tree. The original soil is poor.
Avocado tap roots do not care about water. It's the smaller capillary ones that can't be waterlogged and will succumb to fungi. This is why a lot of people grow avocados from pits using that silly method using toothpicks over water - because it's of no consequence to root rot. I have 28 different varieties of avocados growing in Florida with a water table less than 2 feet under the ground. Never been a problem unless it completely floods the surface.
Don’t forget, that to increase your yield for avocados, there needs to be a type, a avocado tree and a type B avocado tree. This is what I have read.
It is not necessary to have a Type A and Type B avocado. Most varieties are self-fruitful in most climates. If you are growing commercially, it's worth planting roughly one B-type for every six A-type trees to increase fruit set, but for backyard growers, it's generally not needed. One tree will probably give the typical household too much at once to use as-is once they get going.
You misunderstood. I said this would increase yield. I never said it was necessary or needed. But it would increase yield for both the back yard grower as well as commercial growers.
I found it.🤣
You are only giving the taproot a foot or two extra to grow. Thats it.
This is discussed in detail in the video. That's what is needed in my case. I am growing dwarfing varieties. Giving the tree 5 feet of great drainage is a huge difference compared to only 3.5 feet, and as I said in the video, there are even deeper raised beds, which are linked in the video description.