If you are wondering what to do with the extra cord/ribbon, take a dollop of crazy glue gel and affix the excess to the cord/ribbon over which it's folded back behind the clasp. I did not masochist/downsize in this shoe and it feels wonderful with no real dimunition in performance.
Thanks for uploading this Mason!! When I go for my lunch I’ll give it a watch! My Evolv Oracles arrived today, so I’m excited to see how they perform. I will say that after watching your review on them, I’d have to agree that they’re EXTREMELY painful to break in at first. I got my street shoe size, and they were still quite miserable to wear. So, I shamefully had to exchange for a half-size up! And who knows, I may become an Evolv guy after watching this😂
I think I went a full size down in mine 😂 they are decent shoes, but I prefer grip2 / Sportiva as they use leather instead of synthetic materials. Oracles are really awesome shoes for super steep terrain which is why I loved mine, plus they are badass when you first get em. Only thing I don’t like about them is the upper for people with large volume feet (they tend to not close all the way) hope you enjoy yours!
Just had a watch, and based on your review I’m not as into them as I was. I think I tend to prefer something a bit more responsive, so these might not be best for me!
Hey Mason, I'm curious to see the genius reviewed. It sounds like we have a similar foot, I'm also 10.5 wide ish in us sizing and pretty consistently have issues getting into heels of shoes. What is your favorite bouldering shoe currently?
I would love to review the genius for you, I’ll spend the next week thoroughly testing em as much as I can, outdoor bouldering, leading in the gym etc. I would say my personal favorite overall climbing shoe is the La Sportiva TestaRossa, they are INCREDIBLE on outdoor face climbing. The grip literally feels like you are cheating (if you like softer shoes) but they are quite painful. The TestaRossa and the Genius are Brother / Sister shoes with the genius being a no edge variant of the classic TR. for bouldering I’d say that the phantoms are good, but I think the Do All bouldering shoe is probably the Drone HV in size 9.5 / 9. They are super comfy and have decent rubber, but the Toe Hooking capability of the shoe is absolutely incredible
I actually have a pair of the Drones HV and was thinking of downsizing my next pair since my current ones are my street shoe size. Which size do you like in the Drone? I actually kind of want to hear you talk about those now too.
@@oldriggins okay I know I said I’d make the vid soon- if there’s decent sunlight tomorrow I’ll do my best to produce a vid about the drones. I really liked mine, other than a slight heel slippage issue (should’ve sized maybe a half size more down.) but I climbed my max outdoors on lead in them! I think for the money they are pretty much unbeatable
If anyone wants reviews of climbing gear etc please let me know, I have a black Diamond circuit crash pad and an Evolv Home Pad that I just got in this month! My shoe list is: La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Katana (New Gen) La Sportiva TestaRossa x2 La Sportiva Genius Evolv Phantom Evolv Oracle Mad Rock Drone HV x2 Unparallel Leopard Scarpa Mago
If you are wondering what to do with the extra cord/ribbon, take a dollop of crazy glue gel and affix the excess to the cord/ribbon over which it's folded back behind the clasp. I did not masochist/downsize in this shoe and it feels wonderful with no real dimunition in performance.
😂😂😂 the masochism is part of the fun!
Thanks for uploading this Mason!!
When I go for my lunch I’ll give it a watch!
My Evolv Oracles arrived today, so I’m excited to see how they perform. I will say that after watching your review on them, I’d have to agree that they’re EXTREMELY painful to break in at first. I got my street shoe size, and they were still quite miserable to wear. So, I shamefully had to exchange for a half-size up!
And who knows, I may become an Evolv guy after watching this😂
I think I went a full size down in mine 😂 they are decent shoes, but I prefer grip2 / Sportiva as they use leather instead of synthetic materials. Oracles are really awesome shoes for super steep terrain which is why I loved mine, plus they are badass when you first get em. Only thing I don’t like about them is the upper for people with large volume feet (they tend to not close all the way) hope you enjoy yours!
Just had a watch, and based on your review I’m not as into them as I was. I think I tend to prefer something a bit more responsive, so these might not be best for me!
Ignore his so-so review and try them. Like the A-10 Warthog, they won't win a beauty contest but they WILL destroy everything in their path!
Hey Mason, I'm curious to see the genius reviewed. It sounds like we have a similar foot, I'm also 10.5 wide ish in us sizing and pretty consistently have issues getting into heels of shoes. What is your favorite bouldering shoe currently?
I would love to review the genius for you, I’ll spend the next week thoroughly testing em as much as I can, outdoor bouldering, leading in the gym etc. I would say my personal favorite overall climbing shoe is the La Sportiva TestaRossa, they are INCREDIBLE on outdoor face climbing. The grip literally feels like you are cheating (if you like softer shoes) but they are quite painful. The TestaRossa and the Genius are Brother / Sister shoes with the genius being a no edge variant of the classic TR. for bouldering I’d say that the phantoms are good, but I think the Do All bouldering shoe is probably the Drone HV in size 9.5 / 9. They are super comfy and have decent rubber, but the Toe Hooking capability of the shoe is absolutely incredible
I actually have a pair of the Drones HV and was thinking of downsizing my next pair since my current ones are my street shoe size. Which size do you like in the Drone? I actually kind of want to hear you talk about those now too.
@@oldriggins I will have to make a vid on them, I went size 9.5 in mine and I’m a 10.5 in running shoes (Hoka 10.5 wide) they are insanely comfy
(For an aggressive shoe)
@@oldriggins okay I know I said I’d make the vid soon- if there’s decent sunlight tomorrow I’ll do my best to produce a vid about the drones. I really liked mine, other than a slight heel slippage issue (should’ve sized maybe a half size more down.) but I climbed my max outdoors on lead in them! I think for the money they are pretty much unbeatable
If anyone wants reviews of climbing gear etc please let me know, I have a black Diamond circuit crash pad and an Evolv Home Pad that I just got in this month!
My shoe list is:
La Sportiva Solution
La Sportiva Katana (New Gen)
La Sportiva TestaRossa x2
La Sportiva Genius
Evolv Phantom
Evolv Oracle
Mad Rock Drone HV x2
Unparallel Leopard
Scarpa Mago