Hi Matt, I learnt scientific glass blowing in the 70's (but did not continue & went into industrial chemistry) back then the course did not use a kiln, we did "flame annealing" (I still have some Christmas decoration, made in soft glass). I re-stared lampworking 2 years ago - I only run my kiln when I have a full load, but always flame anneal to cool my glass first. FLAME ANNEAL - evenly heat your object, using a cool flame (do not melt it!!!), turn the oxygen &/or air off - this gives a smoky flame, let the soot coat your object - this will slow down the cooling. I then put the soot covered object between 2 layers of glass fibre wool - cooling now takes 30+ min.
Hello Peter, I'm planning to go into other non-kiln methods later, I wanted to dedicated this episode fully to the Kiln. Some people do prefer to soot their glass when warming it up, but I haven't seen too many use soot for the cooling; probably because of the modern kilns. I might explore soot more in the non-kiln episode. Thanks for the great comment and Stay Melty!
Man I’ve been cracking pieces left and right. I get so frustrated, it’s almost done and snap. Pisses me right off, I’ve been working with glass a couple weeks now. I’ve learned a ton from you, thank you!
Hey Ryan, starting out can be very difficult, it does take some time. But remember even if your pieces crack and you don't make anything you still have made some practice. Wish you the best of luck on your glass journey!
When you flatten your gather, do it over several heats and let gravity do the work. When you push, you concave the top, which can add unneeded stress, and make your implosion less even as the top is uneven and will add more glass to some areas, distorting your pattern.
That is some good advice, I always like putting gravity to work. I know the top got a bit warped, I was busy focusing the camera, looked back and saw I over did it. But knowing the inevitable fate of the marble I felt viewers might be mad if I put too much time into it LoL. Thanks for watching!
@@MattJasa it doesn't even really need to be a disk, just flat. I'll shape my prep like a short squat bell almost, just make sure your bottom is flat and spins on center. Any extra glass can be removed from the top without affecting the implosion.
Wow. I flattened mine quickly like the video and as I was doing the marble I could see like where I had pushed on the top of the disc. it looked concave inside the marble. and the top of my marble cracked around that. Space and I was wondering why it cracked probably that’s why. thanks for the advice. And matt, you do a great job! Your videos are awesome.! I think you should take whatever time is needed to show the correct way so things turn out. If people don’t have the patience to watch the correct procedure, maybe they shouldn’t be doing this. keep it up!
Hi Matt, I do have experience with glass melting and Tiffany, but glass burning is new to me, I just started. My first two projects were almost done and fell apart, so I still have a lot to learn. Thank you for explaining with this video how it is possible for the glass to fall apart. Melting glass in an oven can also go wrong if you have not set the correct program. Of course, glass burning has the same principle, but I didn't expect the glass to break apart so quickly. Thanks for the educational and fun explanation of your videos. I hope to learn a lot from you. Kind regards Jolanda Pauli from The Netherlands
Hello Jolanda, Thanks for checking out my work. There truly is a lot to learn, I still have some learning and practice to do myself. But I do enjoy it, I feel its a very natural process working with your hands, heat, and gravity. I know how difficult it can be starting out, but every broken attempt is still successful practice. Best of luck with your glass journey! -Matt Jasa
Thanks. I just ordered my first kiln a few weeks ago. I held off till I started making things worth keeping. Now I need to learn about annealing so I have a clue what I'm doing.
Congrats on the Kiln purchase. A simple guide is to Anneal for 1 hour per inch of thickness. 1" for 1 hour, 2" for 2 hour.. As your project gets more dense you may need to increase the time. You can start annealing after they stop glowing OR let it cool down naturally and batch anneal all your work later to save on electricity.
Yea mine is a budget kiln. I recommend looking at different kilns for one that matches the size of your work. I went with the cube for the biggest variety of size, but if your work is always 2-3" high or can be layed on its side then those rectangular kilns like the XL are a good match.
The kiln was a gift 3 years ago. Never used it just didn't under stand the paper work or videos.. I am going to call paragon to have them walk me throw it. You r so h elpfull . I sure appreciate you thanks
Yea I still do. I'll skip the 4 hours if I get done early. I normally wait 30 minutes to an hour to anneal the last item before I skip. Also If its a small item like the marble stands, glass picks, or my tiny oil lamps, I'll just turn the kiln off after annealing to save power on ramping down.
hey Matt, love the work you do been watching for awhile now. 5hink you could do a video on dichroic, silver, and gold application onto clear tubes and rods?
Hey Brandon, I'll add it to my project list however, I'm not an expert on metal fuming or dichroic. Some artists dedicate their entire career just on that one application. They end up making very masterful pieces incorporating every color of the rainbow. I'll need some time to practice and see what I can.
Hola Kilay Sami Es bueno que estés aprendiendo. Pasé 7 meses aprendiendo mientras ahorraba dinero para mi antorcha. Espera el horno para más tarde, la antorcha es más importante. Gracias por mirar, buena suerte en tu viaje.
Hello Matt. I am having a problem with my marbles, when I take them out of the kilm they’re cracked and I’m aneeling for almost 4 hours at 1050 And slowly brought them down took 6 hours and the next day when I opened up the kiln all but one that was about 3/4 inch had cracked. ☹️
I'm sorry to hear Dan, there must be an issue somewhere between the cooling or the marble design itself. Imploding dense/sparkled colors (which have a lower COE) can be problematic. I'm not sure how much the Clear can take in problematic colors before it cracks. You could try to simplify the design or change color to see if that helps. For the cooling phase I like to bask the marbles in the flame for a even soft glow to balance the heat before I set them in. I believe this helps the annealing. I hope this helps. Best of luck on your glass journey! 🔥
@@danmohr2449 Actually I try to hold it with my tweezers but I don't recommend that for marbles as it could slip very easy. You might try this tool, www.mountainglass.com/Lentil-Tweezers . I haven't used it myself but I'm going to buy one for my next order.
Hello, unfortunately I don't own or have access to any Paragon kilns. I checked out the manual online for your kiln and the programming looks similar but with different button placements. There should be a program pre-set for your needs, once you figure out how to select it it should stay. Let me know if you need more help. Thanks for watching!
Hello again Matt. Sorry I got distracted with the last comment. I actually came on here because I’m having troubles with my marbles cracking in the kiln. I figured out why the one marble cracked with that last comment. But I set my kiln for three segments ramp at full speed to target of 1050°. Hold for four hours. Ramp to full speed to 940° hold for 30 minutes. Then ramp three was 100° an hour down to 500 and then turn off does that sound about right for marbles ranging from a half inch to an inch and a half? Also I garage them at 1050°
Hey Dan, there are some colors which can be problematic when worked too deep. Aventurine glass will have trouble because of the difference in COE. That program sounds about right, some sources say 1 hour for each .25 inch, however I'm not certain if there is a uniform rule for every artist. In theory it might come down to the creation process, if the marble is assembled at working temperature and enters the kiln at annealing temperature then it hasn't had as much time to develop stress. If you allowed it to bench cool, then annealed it later, it would certainly require the extra time. So overall I'm not sure if that 1 hour per 1/4inch would apply to every case or might just be the maximum needed for your worst-case annealing scenarios.
Hello Francisco, Yes I believe they call this "garaging" (like a car garage). Some colors don't like long hot garaging, anything with Aventurine: Blue Stardust, Heavy Leprechaun, Mighty Moss. If the prep work is small enough (like chain links) It can bench cool and be annealed later for 30 minutes before you use it again.
Great video ‘ I need help on cooling process ‘ I’m making modifications to glassware (pint and whiskey glasses’ ) I basically make a small indent in the side by poking a rod into the glass ‘ but cooling down I’m not sure on correct settings to ensure glass doesn’t crack or smash ‘
Hey Oliver, sounds like a fun project. Cooling down your glass Slowly is most important. If you have a kiln you can run an annealing cycle to dissolve built up stress. Soft glass anneals at around 950°f for 30 minutes, after which you can turn the kiln off and let it cool down naturally for several hours. Digital kilns have the most control however and can be programmed to cool even slower (for days). If you don't have a kiln you can use the back of the flame and keep reheating the surface to slow down the process as it cools. It's not ideal (won't anneal your glass) but it can keep it from cracking. Its the method I used for my glass hammer as it wouldn't fit in my kiln. Thanks for watching, let me know if you have any more questions on the cooling process.
I bought the cube because I wasn't sure what I would make would fit. If your only making marbles or things that will fit through the door then I would get the 11x4.5 for more floor space.
what setting do i use if i am making prep work for pipes and water pipes. things like that. i just got one but it didnt come with the instuctions thanks for you videos matt
Wish I could afford a kiln. Then again, I'm starting to think putting your work into vermiculite is a lost art. No, it's not a kiln, but far better than bench cooling. Have you ever tried it?
Hello Bob, I haven't used vermiculite myself but that is a good approach! Anything that can slow down the cooling process. I've heard of people putting vermiculite in a slow-cooker also. I might do an experiment on some cheaper options to figure out a good alternative for the kiln. Thanks for watching!
Hi Matt, I learnt scientific glass blowing in the 70's (but did not continue & went into industrial chemistry) back then the course did not use a kiln, we did "flame annealing" (I still have some Christmas decoration, made in soft glass). I re-stared lampworking 2 years ago - I only run my kiln when I have a full load, but always flame anneal to cool my glass first.
FLAME ANNEAL - evenly heat your object, using a cool flame (do not melt it!!!), turn the oxygen &/or air off - this gives a smoky flame, let the soot coat your object - this will slow down the cooling. I then put the soot covered object between 2 layers of glass fibre wool - cooling now takes 30+ min.
Hello Peter, I'm planning to go into other non-kiln methods later, I wanted to dedicated this episode fully to the Kiln. Some people do prefer to soot their glass when warming it up, but I haven't seen too many use soot for the cooling; probably because of the modern kilns. I might explore soot more in the non-kiln episode. Thanks for the great comment and Stay Melty!
Man I’ve been cracking pieces left and right. I get so frustrated, it’s almost done and snap. Pisses me right off, I’ve been working with glass a couple weeks now. I’ve learned a ton from you, thank you!
Hey Ryan, starting out can be very difficult, it does take some time. But remember even if your pieces crack and you don't make anything you still have made some practice. Wish you the best of luck on your glass journey!
When you flatten your gather, do it over several heats and let gravity do the work. When you push, you concave the top, which can add unneeded stress, and make your implosion less even as the top is uneven and will add more glass to some areas, distorting your pattern.
That is some good advice, I always like putting gravity to work. I know the top got a bit warped, I was busy focusing the camera, looked back and saw I over did it. But knowing the inevitable fate of the marble I felt viewers might be mad if I put too much time into it LoL. Thanks for watching!
@@MattJasa it doesn't even really need to be a disk, just flat. I'll shape my prep like a short squat bell almost, just make sure your bottom is flat and spins on center. Any extra glass can be removed from the top without affecting the implosion.
Wow. I flattened mine quickly like the video and as I was doing the marble I could see like where I had pushed on the top of the disc. it looked concave inside the marble. and the top of my marble cracked around that. Space and I was wondering why it cracked probably that’s why. thanks for the advice. And matt, you do a great job! Your videos are awesome.! I think you should take whatever time is needed to show the correct way so things turn out. If people don’t have the patience to watch the correct procedure, maybe they shouldn’t be doing this. keep it up!
Hi Matt, I do have experience with glass melting and Tiffany, but glass burning is new to me, I just started. My first two projects were almost done and fell apart, so I still have a lot to learn. Thank you for explaining with this video how it is possible for the glass to fall apart. Melting glass in an oven can also go wrong if you have not set the correct program. Of course, glass burning has the same principle, but I didn't expect the glass to break apart so quickly. Thanks for the educational and fun explanation of your videos. I hope to learn a lot from you.
Kind regards Jolanda Pauli from The Netherlands
Hello Jolanda, Thanks for checking out my work. There truly is a lot to learn, I still have some learning and practice to do myself. But I do enjoy it, I feel its a very natural process working with your hands, heat, and gravity. I know how difficult it can be starting out, but every broken attempt is still successful practice. Best of luck with your glass journey! -Matt Jasa
Thanks. I just ordered my first kiln a few weeks ago. I held off till I started making things worth keeping. Now I need to learn about annealing so I have a clue what I'm doing.
Congrats on the Kiln purchase. A simple guide is to Anneal for 1 hour per inch of thickness. 1" for 1 hour, 2" for 2 hour.. As your project gets more dense you may need to increase the time. You can start annealing after they stop glowing OR let it cool down naturally and batch anneal all your work later to save on electricity.
Boy I sure wish that was a xl paragon blue bird you showed...
Yea mine is a budget kiln. I recommend looking at different kilns for one that matches the size of your work. I went with the cube for the biggest variety of size, but if your work is always 2-3" high or can be layed on its side then those rectangular kilns like the XL are a good match.
The kiln was a gift 3 years ago. Never used it just didn't under stand the paper work or videos.. I am going to call paragon to have them walk me throw it. You r so h elpfull . I sure appreciate you thanks
Thank you
hi matt awesome work as always mate. i do have a question for you what temp would u set a kiln to for garaging a peace?
Do you still use this same program for your kiln?
Yea I still do. I'll skip the 4 hours if I get done early. I normally wait 30 minutes to an hour to anneal the last item before I skip. Also If its a small item like the marble stands, glass picks, or my tiny oil lamps, I'll just turn the kiln off after annealing to save power on ramping down.
@@MattJasa Thanks for the info!
hey Matt, love the work you do been watching for awhile now. 5hink you could do a video on dichroic, silver, and gold application onto clear tubes and rods?
Hey Brandon, I'll add it to my project list however, I'm not an expert on metal fuming or dichroic. Some artists dedicate their entire career just on that one application. They end up making very masterful pieces incorporating every color of the rainbow. I'll need some time to practice and see what I can.
Hi would you do a show on the xl blue bird kiln ?? I have never used the one I have. It's 3 year ,
Hello Pryomancyglassart, sorry I don't own that kiln. The operation should be very similar to this one.
Eres grande!!!!
Aun estoy lejos de comprar mi primer kiln..............ni siqueira tengo mi primer torch.
Pero estoy aprendiendo mucho.
Hola Kilay Sami Es bueno que estés aprendiendo. Pasé 7 meses aprendiendo mientras ahorraba dinero para mi antorcha. Espera el horno para más tarde, la antorcha es más importante. Gracias por mirar, buena suerte en tu viaje.
Hello Matt. I am having a problem with my marbles, when I take them out of the kilm they’re cracked and I’m aneeling for almost 4 hours at 1050 And slowly brought them down took 6 hours and the next day when I opened up the kiln all but one that was about 3/4 inch had cracked. ☹️
I'm sorry to hear Dan, there must be an issue somewhere between the cooling or the marble design itself. Imploding dense/sparkled colors (which have a lower COE) can be problematic. I'm not sure how much the Clear can take in problematic colors before it cracks. You could try to simplify the design or change color to see if that helps.
For the cooling phase I like to bask the marbles in the flame for a even soft glow to balance the heat before I set them in. I believe this helps the annealing. I hope this helps.
Best of luck on your glass journey! 🔥
Thank you Matt. My COE was the same, I believe. I will try letting it sit in the flame. That could be it.
Thank you Matt. I believe my COE is the same. I will watch that. I will try the basking. You must leave it on the marver then ? For that.
@@danmohr2449 Actually I try to hold it with my tweezers but I don't recommend that for marbles as it could slip very easy. You might try this tool, www.mountainglass.com/Lentil-Tweezers . I haven't used it myself but I'm going to buy one for my next order.
@@MattJasa thank you so much !!
Hi could y do a show on the xl blue bird kiln? Mine is 3 year old, I have never used it
Hello, unfortunately I don't own or have access to any Paragon kilns. I checked out the manual online for your kiln and the programming looks similar but with different button placements. There should be a program pre-set for your needs, once you figure out how to select it it should stay. Let me know if you need more help. Thanks for watching!
Hello again Matt. Sorry I got distracted with the last comment. I actually came on here because I’m having troubles with my marbles cracking in the kiln. I figured out why the one marble cracked with that last comment. But I set my kiln for three segments ramp at full speed to target of 1050°. Hold for four hours. Ramp to full speed to 940° hold for 30 minutes. Then ramp three was 100° an hour down to 500 and then turn off does that sound about right for marbles ranging from a half inch to an inch and a half? Also I garage them at 1050°
Hey Dan, there are some colors which can be problematic when worked too deep. Aventurine glass will have trouble because of the difference in COE. That program sounds about right, some sources say 1 hour for each .25 inch, however I'm not certain if there is a uniform rule for every artist. In theory it might come down to the creation process, if the marble is assembled at working temperature and enters the kiln at annealing temperature then it hasn't had as much time to develop stress. If you allowed it to bench cool, then annealed it later, it would certainly require the extra time. So overall I'm not sure if that 1 hour per 1/4inch would apply to every case or might just be the maximum needed for your worst-case annealing scenarios.
do i hold it at 1050 say if im making prep work all day. ?
Hello Francisco, Yes I believe they call this "garaging" (like a car garage).
Some colors don't like long hot garaging, anything with Aventurine: Blue Stardust,
Heavy Leprechaun, Mighty Moss.
If the prep work is small enough (like chain links) It can bench cool and be annealed later for 30 minutes before you use it again.
Thank you I appreciate. So many simply say anneal the piece
You're very welcome! A simple guide is 1 hour per inch. Larger work may require more time. A 4-inch marble would be in the 6-7+ hour range.
The one that was about 11/2 inch had a clear window on top and that is what cracked the color was ok
Great video ‘ I need help on cooling process ‘ I’m making modifications to glassware (pint and whiskey glasses’ ) I basically make a small indent in the side by poking a rod into the glass ‘ but cooling down I’m not sure on correct settings to ensure glass doesn’t crack or smash ‘
Hey Oliver, sounds like a fun project. Cooling down your glass Slowly is most important. If you have a kiln you can run an annealing cycle to dissolve built up stress. Soft glass anneals at around 950°f for 30 minutes, after which you can turn the kiln off and let it cool down naturally for several hours. Digital kilns have the most control however and can be programmed to cool even slower (for days).
If you don't have a kiln you can use the back of the flame and keep reheating the surface to slow down the process as it cools. It's not ideal (won't anneal your glass) but it can keep it from cracking. Its the method I used for my glass hammer as it wouldn't fit in my kiln. Thanks for watching, let me know if you have any more questions on the cooling process.
Are you using a Jen Ken Cube? I've been thinking about getting one myself but not sure whether I should get the Cube or the AF3 11x4.5
I bought the cube because I wasn't sure what I would make would fit. If your only making marbles or things that will fit through the door then I would get the 11x4.5 for more floor space.
Can you make a glass duck in a future video?
It's been awhile since I've done an animal. I'll push it up on the list. Thanks for watching!
what setting do i use if i am making prep work for pipes and water pipes. things like that. i just got one but it didnt come with the instuctions
thanks for you videos matt
bEAd, bd4. That will set it to 4 hours at 1050 before ramping down slowly.
Wish I could afford a kiln. Then again, I'm starting to think putting your work into vermiculite is a lost art. No, it's not a kiln, but far better than bench cooling. Have you ever tried it?
Hello Bob, I haven't used vermiculite myself but that is a good approach! Anything that can slow down the cooling process. I've heard of people putting vermiculite in a slow-cooker also. I might do an experiment on some cheaper options to figure out a good alternative for the kiln. Thanks for watching!
First