Perfect timing on this video for me as I was just thinking about getting in some switchgrass for this spring. Our snow is about gone with this warm weather. Sure is a huge difference from last year!
I would recommend anyone frost seeding switch to only use the first spraying method of simizen, I found bye spraying with glyphosate and 2/4D you will kill most of your switch. I did that for 3 years in a row before I learned, I cut that out this year and had great results!
Please..anyone, do not only spray 1 spraying of Simazine. You will fail. Follow the above directions discussed in the video, or you will fail. I have thousands of acres planted successfully to my name using these methods, including my own. Across dozens of states. For more than a decade. In .my position I get to analyze success and failure for my profession. The 2-4D or Glyphosate will NOT kill switch unless it is growing or about to grow. Folks can get lucky 1 year and then profess their experience to be gospel, but folks these are tried and true methods that have been honed for decades so that you can be successful. I encourage discussion or questions related to the topic, however when the information expressed in comments is flat out wrong, I attack it regardless of the person commenting. One reason for having this channel in the first place is to fight bad information with a vengeance. Sorry Jimmy, but I can't let you steer anyone incorrectly on this channel.
Logically you would want to kill any perennial vegetation in the fall when Round-Up works best. It's all about getting the results you want and if you don't have serious perennial vegetation pressure the simazine should get the job done.
I would agree with that. You do not need more than 1 application of Simazine. In reality you can get away with 1 to 2 spraying of herbicide in general and still have successful switchgrass plantings, especially geared towards wildlife. Between the switchgrass used for the dairy cattle to set asides, habitat and planting for the state, we have never exceeded 2 applications of herbicide before planting.
Could you imagine others also do it for a living. This in my opinion is a reckless recommendation with fast emerging new varieties of switchgrass being released and its clear many landowners have lost stands that followed the advice. @@jordanhudson5075
We tried something a little different this year. Put down a bunch of crimson clover and rye for a couple plots. With the lack of rain this year, those were the only plots that had anything meaningful for deer.
If your seed if washing off because snow is melting to fast you already have a terrible erosion problem. Snow seeding allows you to make sure you cover the area correctly. Anywhere south of ohio it should be a good idea
1 quart per acre will set back clover, but not kill it. It will kill your chicory, most likely. I would use gly as a solution in year 2 of clover...not when young.
Hi Jake...year round food is tough, but annual clovers, oats in the Fall, Fall rye, peas in the Fall, alfalfa if irrigated, small burnett...some choices. The concepts of how or if to hunt and not spooking deer off of it are all the same tho. Also, layered deer bedding based on food... necessary depth of cover based on the location of food. I hope it all helps!
Planted radish clover blend in August. Grew in great! Looked beautiful… problem was deer didn’t seem interested in it. Trying to figure out what to do this fall for a food plot… Ohio big ag country on small wooded plot. Please help!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks for the reply. I’ll be doing my research on oats and peas this spring! Can they be seeded into standing clover plots?
I've been a fan of your content for over 15 years Jeff. We saw you at a Gander Mountain seminar in Grand Rapids about the same time. What type of Clover do you recommend for shady areas for frost seeding? tks. Go Lions!
Can we frost seed over cut alfalfa? We currently have a cut alfalfa field we want to convert to switchgrass. Or do we need to kill the alfalfa first? Thanks!
Hi Steve! You can, but you need to hit it with Simazine prior to spring greenup and then 2-4D and Glyphosate as soon as the alfalfa begins to grow in the spring
Yes...but it depends on the tree species. Absolutely not with aspen, for example. Also depends on the client risk factor of trees coming down in the coming years. I had a client who could have been killed with a falling girdled aspen on his land that was cut by another habitat manager. It was not smart to girdle the Aspen and even more unwise to do it next to an area frequented by the client. Limited use for sure
Can you frost seed in sandy soil? From what I read frost seeding is not recommended for sandy soils because the freezing and thawing does not incorporate the seed. Is this true? I've seen thousands of videos on frost seeding and no one ever mentions anything about sandy soil. It would be helpful for people with sandy soil to know this if it's true so they don't waste their time and money on seeds.... Thanks Jeff for sharing your knowledge.
You are very welcome! You sure can frost seed into sandy soil 😊👍I've done it MANY years with clover...even brassica back in the experimentation years (20 years ago+), chicory, birdsfoot trefoil. Also switchgrass, grass seed, vetch throughout the years. In fact it is PREFERRED as it will more successfully incorporate the seed into warm, seasonably damp soil conditions. But again, YES you sure can frost seed in sandy soil. Done it dozens of times with exceptional success with many seed varieties.
Hello! In over a decade of having my own SG, I've never had a reason too. You can control weeds with mowing and herbicide. Also if planted and maintained properly there is rarely a reason to burn...other than it looks cool on social media.
We burn all of our switchgrass as well as some of our CRP fields (contract with NRCS). Switchgrass will benefit from a burn just prior to initiation of spring growth and is the best option for the stand as long as you are comfortable with burning or have someone to burn it who is. Switchgrass fields that are burned every 3 to 5 years minimizes weed competition, eliminates excessive residue which can set back switchgrass and burning stimulates switch grass growth. It also reduces mulch accumulations that can impede the movement of hatchlings and attract nest predators. Mowing if done wrong can hurt switchgrass since it is a bunch style grass. Mow to low, it can damage the clump, setting it back. Unless you use a mulching style mower or one that can eject out the side, residue buildup still happens, and bush hogs tend to windrow the mulch.
@@deerslayer2446 thank you so much for your long reply . We not supposed to burn here in NY but I am dying to !! At that 4 year mark have. Have to make a descion soon this spring
Hey Jeff, looks like we will be frost seeding this week in s.e. Mn. with this crazy weather huh? Good luck to your lions this weekend, being a vikings fan for 50 plus years I don't mind rooting for the lions but will NEVER root for the packers!!🤣🤣
@@kurtpearson2793 I get so excited thinking I’m going to beat you and never do! I can’t even do it sitting right next to him and knowing full well when he is about to hit that “post” button! 😂😂
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Perfect timing on this video for me as I was just thinking about getting in some switchgrass for this spring. Our snow is about gone with this warm weather. Sure is a huge difference from last year!
Man Peter the conditions are incredibly different this year!
I would recommend anyone frost seeding switch to only use the first spraying method of simizen, I found bye spraying with glyphosate and 2/4D you will kill most of your switch. I did that for 3 years in a row before I learned, I cut that out this year and had great results!
Please..anyone, do not only spray 1 spraying of Simazine. You will fail. Follow the above directions discussed in the video, or you will fail.
I have thousands of acres planted successfully to my name using these methods, including my own. Across dozens of states. For more than a decade.
In .my position I get to analyze success and failure for my profession.
The 2-4D or Glyphosate will NOT kill switch unless it is growing or about to grow. Folks can get lucky 1 year and then profess their experience to be gospel, but folks these are tried and true methods that have been honed for decades so that you can be successful.
I encourage discussion or questions related to the topic, however when the information expressed in comments is flat out wrong, I attack it regardless of the person commenting. One reason for having this channel in the first place is to fight bad information with a vengeance.
Sorry Jimmy, but I can't let you steer anyone incorrectly on this channel.
Logically you would want to kill any perennial vegetation in the fall when Round-Up works best. It's all about getting the results you want and if you don't have serious perennial vegetation pressure the simazine should get the job done.
I would agree with that. You do not need more than 1 application of Simazine. In reality you can get away with 1 to 2 spraying of herbicide in general and still have successful switchgrass plantings, especially geared towards wildlife. Between the switchgrass used for the dairy cattle to set asides, habitat and planting for the state, we have never exceeded 2 applications of herbicide before planting.
Why yall wanna argue with someone who does this shit for a living
Could you imagine others also do it for a living. This in my opinion is a reckless recommendation with fast emerging new varieties of switchgrass being released and its clear many landowners have lost stands that followed the advice. @@jordanhudson5075
Great timing ! Thanks and go Lions
Thanks a lot and GO LIONS!!
We tried something a little different this year. Put down a bunch of crimson clover and rye for a couple plots. With the lack of rain this year, those were the only plots that had anything meaningful for deer.
If your seed if washing off because snow is melting to fast you already have a terrible erosion problem. Snow seeding allows you to make sure you cover the area correctly. Anywhere south of ohio it should be a good idea
Just depends on frost in ground. The north 1/2 of the country 😉 The rest of the states have weak winters , lol
So glysophicat will not kill my established clover/ chicory plot ? Want to spray for weeds
1 quart per acre will set back clover, but not kill it. It will kill your chicory, most likely. I would use gly as a solution in year 2 of clover...not when young.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks
Any changes / tips for NE Texas?
Looking to provide year round food.
Hi Jake...year round food is tough, but annual clovers, oats in the Fall, Fall rye, peas in the Fall, alfalfa if irrigated, small burnett...some choices. The concepts of how or if to hunt and not spooking deer off of it are all the same tho. Also, layered deer bedding based on food... necessary depth of cover based on the location of food. I hope it all helps!
Planted radish clover blend in August. Grew in great! Looked beautiful… problem was deer didn’t seem interested in it. Trying to figure out what to do this fall for a food plot… Ohio big ag country on small wooded plot. Please help!
Hi Justin, a nice clover blend going into the Fall can be a great planting for you there. Oats and peas, followed by a layer of rye can work well too
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks for the reply. I’ll be doing my research on oats and peas this spring! Can they be seeded into standing clover plots?
I've been a fan of your content for over 15 years Jeff. We saw you at a Gander Mountain seminar in Grand Rapids about the same time. What type of Clover do you recommend for shady areas for frost seeding? tks. Go Lions!
Can we frost seed over cut alfalfa? We currently have a cut alfalfa field we want to convert to switchgrass. Or do we need to kill the alfalfa first? Thanks!
Hi Steve! You can, but you need to hit it with Simazine prior to spring greenup and then 2-4D and Glyphosate as soon as the alfalfa begins to grow in the spring
Thank you very much!!! @@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751
Jeff, would you ever recommend double girtling if a client wasn't comfortable falling large trees?
Yes...but it depends on the tree species. Absolutely not with aspen, for example. Also depends on the client risk factor of trees coming down in the coming years. I had a client who could have been killed with a falling girdled aspen on his land that was cut by another habitat manager. It was not smart to girdle the Aspen and even more unwise to do it next to an area frequented by the client. Limited use for sure
Can you frost seed in sandy soil? From what I read frost seeding is not recommended for sandy soils because the freezing and thawing does not incorporate the seed. Is this true? I've seen thousands of videos on frost seeding and no one ever mentions anything about sandy soil. It would be helpful for people with sandy soil to know this if it's true so they don't waste their time and money on seeds.... Thanks Jeff for sharing your knowledge.
You are very welcome!
You sure can frost seed into sandy soil 😊👍I've done it MANY years with clover...even brassica back in the experimentation years (20 years ago+), chicory, birdsfoot trefoil. Also switchgrass, grass seed, vetch throughout the years. In fact it is PREFERRED as it will more successfully incorporate the seed into warm, seasonably damp soil conditions.
But again, YES you sure can frost seed in sandy soil. Done it dozens of times with exceptional success with many seed varieties.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.
Do you ever Burn🔥 your SG🌾? I never seen a Jeff maintaining SG with fire video ??
Hello! In over a decade of having my own SG, I've never had a reason too. You can control weeds with mowing and herbicide. Also if planted and maintained properly there is rarely a reason to burn...other than it looks cool on social media.
We burn all of our switchgrass as well as some of our CRP fields (contract with NRCS). Switchgrass will benefit from a burn just prior to initiation of spring growth and is the best option for the stand as long as you are comfortable with burning or have someone to burn it who is. Switchgrass fields that are burned every 3 to 5 years minimizes weed competition, eliminates excessive residue which can set back switchgrass and burning stimulates switch grass growth. It also reduces mulch accumulations that can impede the movement of hatchlings and attract nest predators. Mowing if done wrong can hurt switchgrass since it is a bunch style grass. Mow to low, it can damage the clump, setting it back. Unless you use a mulching style mower or one that can eject out the side, residue buildup still happens, and bush hogs tend to windrow the mulch.
@@deerslayer2446 thank you so much for your long reply . We not supposed to burn here in NY but I am dying to !! At that 4 year mark have. Have to make a descion soon this spring
Hey Jeff, looks like we will be frost seeding this week in s.e. Mn. with this crazy weather huh? Good luck to your lions this weekend, being a vikings fan for 50 plus years I don't mind rooting for the lions but will NEVER root for the packers!!🤣🤣
Go Lions!
Amen!!
Boy...the 3rd may be a great time! Crazy... absolutely crazy weather!
That's just because the queens and lions have so much in common. No Lombardi trophies.
👍🏻
Got cave in rock in mail yesterday
Where did you order it from?
First
Yep!
1st!
Oh so close babe ...
😂😂👍@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751
😂
@@kurtpearson2793 I get so excited thinking I’m going to beat you and never do! I can’t even do it sitting right next to him and knowing full well when he is about to hit that “post” button! 😂😂
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 some day! 😂
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