PERFECT! This was an excellent video/tutorial. It told me exactly what I needed to know and gave me the confidence to proceed with cleaning the carb. Turns out my carb was full of jelly-like debris. I cleaned everything up, reassembled and engine runs perfectly. No more surging, just a nice running old engine. Thank you so much!
My carb was clogged between the idle mixture screw near the throttle valve and the bleeder port next to the choke valve. At first I didn't think the two ports where connected because I couldn't get anything through there. Used a three inch strand of copper wire to dig my way from port to port. Runs like new now. Thank you.
Dude you were the only one to show the main jet going into the tube, not on top of it, so you saved me a whole lot of trouble, I had put the jet into the top, not down the tube, so my engine runs but surges, so I fixed it, and now it runs perfect, thank you so much.
You just saved me. When I got this generator carb, the previous owner placed the main jet in the bottom hole (where fuel delivery comes through), not the center hole. After seeing your video and hearing your explanation about the main jet, it made the B&S parts manual more clear. I was about to buy another carb. Thank You!
I just fixed my mower because of your great video. I also put the main jet from the bottom up and my mower would not even start. Once I put it on the right way it fired up and sounds great! Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks buddy, I’m back on the road now! I had the main jet upside down! The graduated side faces the bottom of the bowl. It was flooding and wouldn’t run for more than 5 or ten seconds.
Your video is a life saver. I slowly took mine apart and the something fell out. I later discovered what that part was (the main jet) and googled and got your video.
Never worked on these type of carbs, and I thank you for taking the time to make this, but I have to tell ya when you was being all safe by wearing safety glasses and blew you parts off the table cracked me up! lol...Thank you.
Just wanted to stop in an say thank you, I referred to this video and a few others while fixing an Ariens 42" Riding Mower on my channel. Very helpful I included a link to this video in the description. Thank you!
Outstanding video thanks I did not know where the Main jet went and could not find any other video that covered it even on the Briggs & Station site does not show you Now its running great thank so much for your video.
pfun41, thank you for your video. I did want to make a small suggestion which could prevent a load of stress to anyone doing this repair. Mind you, this is NOT a criticism of your video. It is merely a tip which I had to learn the hard way. At 2:50 in your video you have removed and cleaned the small main jet and you set it down on your work bench. At about 3:17 in your video you are blowing the carb off with compressed air. You will notice here the gaskets inadvertently blowing off the work surface. This is not a problem if you are replacing them, however, that main jet was still lying there beside the fuel transfer plate. My tip is this: secure that main jet before you hit the compressed air. As I have already stated, I had to learn this lesson the hard way. I carelessly blew that main jet away and I have yet to find it. That was about a year ago. Yes, I had to buy another one. Anyway, thank you again for your video.
Yes that main jet is very small and easily lost. I haven't lost one for one of these carbs yet but I did once loose one for a blower.I usually try to keep the main jet away from the compressed air jet. Usually it goes in the ultrasonic cleaner and gets blown off by itself when It comes out. The tray really helps keep parts like this from getting lost.
i just rebuilt one of these Nikki carbs and it is also surging. you mentioned to adjust the mixture screw which should fix it, do i adjust it at full throttle or at low idle?
also this damn nikki piece of shit caused the engine to flood with gas and it poured out when i removed the damn sparkplug. why does it make the engine flood?
Craftsman 1963 the needle is not sealing the fuel inlet. The solenoid is to prevent backfires not fuel entering the carb. Best practice is to install a fuel shutoff valve, just in case. Been there!
The main jet little brass came out as I was cleaning the carb. One side has little ridges, the other side is smooth. Which way does it have to face when reinserting it back into the main jet?
Maybe a little late, but in case it helps other people...the little brass jet goes down into the hole with the ridges and o-ring facing downward. The larger flat side faces upward when you're dropping it into the tube. Use a small drill bit to straighten it out inside the tube and press it in flat. When you flip that white plastic part over to view it from the other end, you should see the jet sitting just about flush with the edge of the white plastic. That's why the one end of the jet is smaller than the other and has the o-ring, so it seats down inside the end of the tube. I hope that helps someone.
I have one similar that is giving me problems and I have an identical one on another crapped out mower. Only difference is one has the solenoid plug on the bottom and the other is a solid bowl. Do you think they would be interchangeable? Just put the solid bowl on the other carb?
In the repair manual, it notes that there is a spring between the plastic body and the carb bowl, but I swear when i took mine apart there wasn't one. Either that or it's gone forever. I see that yours doesn't have a spring. Do some versions of the carb not have one? I also swear that my main jet fell out when I removed the solenoid with the carb still assembled. I did not put it back in the top for that reason, but I think that was wrong, based on your video. Thanks for the help!
Bill Burke I have seen a few with a spring but most don't have one. The main jet shouldn't be able to fall out of the bottom unless someone took it apart before and put it back together wrong. It can only be installed properly from the top.
Great video. Had trouble finding one that dealt with my carb specifically. Only think I didn't do when I went at this the first time was try to set the main jet in place with the drill bit. I took it apart and tried that, but it didn't help. My carb seems to still fill with gas and flood out the engine. By turning the fuel line shutoff to almost closed I can get the engine to run smooth. But then when I try to drive fast or engage the mower it stalls and quits, from not enough fuel I am guessing. Any ideas what might be the issue? Someone else suggested that even with a new pin in the float, maybe the orifice itself is worn and letting fuel run by the float....
A nikki should only require the gasket and seat, and if you have a separate O ring for the fuel inlet that has to be replaced as well, beyond that I would look at the plastic carb body.
+skirtdevil Skinny O-ring end goes in first, then press it in place with the back of a drill bit. The plastic carb body wont sit flush if you put the main jet in backwards.
I found this and your other video on the Briggs engine extremely useful. We have the same motor as you, the 13.5hp. I wonder if you can help with another issue. We had to replace the ignition lock and the solenoid but we can't get the LED ignition lamp to spark up at the first position of the key, instead it lights up only when we move the key to the start position, as soon as we let go of the key the engine stops. If we bridge the wires the ignition lamp glows but when wired to the key nothing. We have the wiring diagram and all leads are correct. Do you have any ideas? Kind regards Rich
Thx,thats what i needed to know,can u run the jet with no seal on it,cant find an o-ring that small that will let the jet sit down all the way or i have problems having the white plastic body mount up tight to the carbs aluminum body.That must be one seriously small o-ring.I take it that u dont want gas sneeking past the jet to the outside off the emulsion tube.Mine never came with an oring to begin with but i got mower used and it does show a seal in the Nikki parts schemtic.
warren hawthorne You can try but it may run a bit rich, the Nikki carburetors are very picky. I never remove that seal and have yet to see a main jet without one.
Great info,my question is does the main jet have an o-ring on it before inserting into white plastic body and is there a right and wrong way it goes in,thx
Little they cost? I had to give 50 usd for the same thing. How about u ? the main problem i have been having, is the choke sticking. I noticed the rod on the choke has no spring to filp it open when taken off at the throttle knob. If one holds just slight pressure imitating intake suction the choke valve is pulled closed easily, a flaw in design per nikki, Deere, and briggs..... The rod is basically free floating on that plastic part that slides, any solution, light spring maybe ???
Main jet part number? A piece fell out the other day I thought it was the broken piece off the fuel selenoid. I can start my 15.5 hp and when I shut the fuel shut off it runs better or right until it runs out of fuel then turn valve back on to keep it running. Will the walbro automatically replace the nikkis?
What are the tips for adjusting the needle valve after engine testing? Trial & Error? 1.5 turns always? At mid-throttle I have urge to backfire pop and rough running.
adjust till it runs rough one way, then adjust till it runs rough the other way, then stick it in the middle of those points. Usually I just set it by feel if it it pops or sputters but often I just put it back where it was and have no issues.
I just replaced the main gasket in mine and it's leaking all over the place. I replaced everything and did it correctly but it's still leaking. It leaked so much that it started flowing into the crankcase. I have no idea what the problem is.
well, i ordered the kit, rebuilt it, cleaned it up and still flooded, took it off like 4 times, but today i found my problem, there's a little hole in the carb body right by the float lol after i opened it and cleaned it up it ran fine
I feel like I am having the same problem you did. I have rebuilt twice now, still surging and flooding. Where is this hole you missed because I think I am missing it as well!
I'm actually repairing one of these right now. I have a spring in my bowl right above and center with the solenoid at the bottom of the bowl. I didn't see a single spring in your video here but we have absolutely identical carbs. what could this be? previous small engine mechanic mistake?
No, some Nikki carburetors have that spring, some don't. Its to help keep the plastic carb body seated. These Carburetors are mostly the same but they do vary slightly.
You could've tried going through the main jet with something like a carb return spring before disturbing that molded bowl gasket. It either means replacing the gasket vor letting it dry out for a day or two, if it's not a pile of goo.
That wouldn't get the emulsion tube passages clean, or get gunk out of the bottom of the bowl. I always replace the gaskets on these as insurance anyway, they don't cost much so why risk it.
@@pfun41 You are correct on both. However sometimes, it is a no pay job and the customer still wants instant gratification. Thank you for the response.
Sorry,i dident explain correctly.I realize the jet can only go in the white plastic from one way but the jet is shaped like a top hat,does the threaded end of the main jet go in first or last or does it matter.Thx again
warren hawthorne It's not threaded. drop it into the plastic body narrow end first, then press it down with a drill bit. I haven't tried but I presume if you install it backwards the plastic body will not seat properly to the metal body.
There's only an air screw on these. Typically I don't touch it unless it surges just a little. Then I'll adjust it by feel until the engine runs smoothly.
Not my problem exactly, mines a 24 hp but the principle is the same. The in formation all applied. I was thinking this was my problem also. We shall see. Thanks
I just pulled the Nikki carb off my 17.5hp. It's running rich flooding out and can't find anything wrong? Just noticed that my main jet is on the end if the tube?
Thanks for the reply! It had the elect fuel shut off go bad a while back. I managed to get it running with the old one. Some how I think when I was messing with it last year I must have lost the main jet. I whipped one out on the lathe and got it running today. It has a new fuel fuel shut off now too. Great video!
You should really consider getting a proper main jet if you lost one. Small engine aren't that picky but if the mixture is too rich it can wash out the cylinder walls.
pfun41 thanks for the info. But every time I get one thing fixed I find something else wrong. Like it needs a new starter, battery, solenoid, and today I found that the 18 yr. mower needs a alternator. I am stopping at that. More money than the lady that owns it wants to spend. We are already at $175.00.
@@tonybirdwell2917 I have never seen a mower that needs that many electrical parts. In fact, of the countless mowers Ive dragged in from backyards I think I've had a bad starter 2 or 3 times. I may have had a failed stator once.
pfun41 I have heard that same thing from several people. She had her ex. supposedly “work” on it. Not sure what he did to it. Looks as though he used more than 12volts dc. To have those problems.
Old style has spring holding main jet in. Otherwise goes in the fuel transfer tube as described. Two different styles. Know what you're working on first.
I cleaned my single barrel Nikki carb due to water in the gas. It ran rich afterwards and I've taken it apart 3 times since and spent countless hours on the internet trying to understand what's happening. I even replaced the bowl/float gasket and o-ring, and checked the valve clearance (.004" to .006" for Briggs). I've just realized that the main jet is missing (probably from me blowing it out with compressed air). All this time I've been thinking that the brass emulsion tube was the jet. So if your engine is running rich all of a sudden after cleaning the carb, check to see if your jet is still there at the end of the white plastic fuel transfer tube body before adjusting the valve timing or replacing the bowl gasket. outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
@@pfun41 : I removed the solenoid, the two screws, then pulled out the cup. the nylon assembly was in the cup and I tapped it to get it out. the parts came apart faster than I could see. the small brass orifice with the o-ring rolled across the foot pads. when I cleaned out the carb and put that brass part on the exposed side of the nylon, the solenoid would not seat. when I put the brass part inside of the long nylon tube and pushed in, then re-assembled, it went together without problems. =========== now, when I try to start, it starts right up for 10 seconds, then dies and will not re-start. ------------- I am on e-bay and it seems it would be easier to buy a new carb than to buy the parts to fix this one. alas, my mower is getting lost in the tall grass and another week will go by without it running.
@@dave-in-nj9393 You have the jet in the right spot. It sounds like its not getting enough fuel flow. Either the needle isn't in right or you have fuel supply issues.
@@pfun41 : thanks, in the morrow, I will test the fuel pump and filter and make sure that part is all right. the only part of the carb I did not take apart was the needle on the top. there is a plastic sleeve that only allows about a half turn.
No, they vary a bit. As I mentioned some have a different seal design, I also wouldn't doubt that there are different main jet sizes, being that they are used on engines of different sizes and HP. Some also contain a spring to keep the carb body seated while others do not. Other than that the rider versions are all pretty similar. There are more variations used on other types of engines. Ive seen them on generators without the afterfire solenoid.
pfun41 I should have mentioned he did say as long as the linkages were the same. But, being familiar with appliance parts, I know some can look the same and be different. That being said, there are appliance parts with different part numbers that will interchange.
+gator mcclusky What do you mean you can't find it? Most of these carburetors are nearly identical, most will interchage easily provided they are from similar size and style engines.
Never use a wire to clean jets,you risk enlarging the orifice.The best thing is a cat's whisker,really,stiff enough to remove the gunk but won't damage the jet.
Correction!! The Fuel inlet O-ring is not 1.5mm thick. The pack I got was mislabeled. That size is too thick. The exact thickness is 1.2.mm. The Inside Diameter of the O-rings I'm using is 6 mm. This size works fine so far but the Inside Diameter of the original O- ring is a tiny bit bigger. Probably an I.D. of 6.5. I won't stop until I have the exact perfect size. I'll let you know when I find it.
These carbs are pure crap.No brass seat with a spring loaded needle valve.Briggs should and I think there is a class action lawsuit because of these carbs.You mention that if there is a fuel cut off there is a problem.That may and may not be the case.That fuel cutoff is the best insurance you can ever have especially with second hand or older model tractors or mowers.Ive seen brand new out of the box carbs leak.Ive also seen several mowers burn and catch fire because of flooding/dumping gas into the motor.You need a fuel cut off for safety.NEVER DEPEND ON THAT NEEDLE to seat itself.A tiny amount seeping past that needle over say 2 days or a week until you use your mower or tractor will drain your gas tank.Again,NIkki carbs are pure shit junk.Briggg out to reimburse everyone that bought a single cylinder or twin for that matter motor with a Nikki carb.People bitch about Tecumseh carbs"which I love".Work on a Nikki and you will see.I guarantee you will be using a fuel shut off on it.
I own a mower with 2000 hours on the original Intek and Nikki carb. No leaks. Most homeowners will not install a fuel shutoff unless there is a fuel related problem. There are exceptions.
How refreshing, someone that knows what he's doing and also how to make a video. No background noise or unnecessary bs. Thank You !
PERFECT! This was an excellent video/tutorial. It told me exactly what I needed to know and gave me the confidence to proceed with cleaning the carb. Turns out my carb was full of jelly-like debris. I cleaned everything up, reassembled and engine runs perfectly. No more surging, just a nice running old engine. Thank you so much!
My carb was clogged between the idle mixture screw near the throttle valve and the bleeder port next to the choke valve. At first I didn't think the two ports where connected because I couldn't get anything through there. Used a three inch strand of copper wire to dig my way from port to port. Runs like new now. Thank you.
Dude you were the only one to show the main jet going into the tube, not on top of it, so you saved me a whole lot of trouble, I had put the jet into the top, not down the tube, so my engine runs but surges, so I fixed it, and now it runs perfect, thank you so much.
You just saved me. When I got this generator carb, the previous owner placed the main jet in the bottom hole (where fuel delivery comes through), not the center hole. After seeing your video and hearing your explanation about the main jet, it made the B&S parts manual more clear. I was about to buy another carb. Thank You!
I just fixed my mower because of your great video. I also put the main jet from the bottom up and my mower would not even start.
Once I put it on the right way it fired up and sounds great! Thanks for the great videos.
What’s the right way to put back the main jet, o ring towards the valve selenoid or the emulsion tube?
Thanks buddy, I’m back on the road now! I had the main jet upside down! The graduated side faces the bottom of the bowl. It was flooding and wouldn’t run for more than 5 or ten seconds.
Your video is a life saver. I slowly took mine apart and the something fell out. I later discovered what that part was (the main jet) and googled and got your video.
Never worked on these type of carbs, and I thank you for taking the time to make this, but I have to tell ya when you was being all safe by wearing safety glasses and blew you parts off the table cracked me up! lol...Thank you.
Don't want to get parts in your eyes.
Thanks to your video I was able to get my Murray tractor running smoothly again thank you, great video
Just wanted to stop in an say thank you, I referred to this video and a few others while fixing an Ariens 42" Riding Mower on my channel. Very helpful
I included a link to this video in the description.
Thank you!
Outstanding video thanks I did not know where the Main jet went and could not find any other video that covered it even on the Briggs & Station site does not show you Now its running great thank so much for your video.
I had the same problem, That's why I'm here. Thanks
pfun41, thank you for your video. I did want to make a small suggestion which could prevent a load of stress to anyone doing this repair. Mind you, this is NOT a criticism of your video. It is merely a tip which I had to learn the hard way. At 2:50 in your video you have removed and cleaned the small main jet and you set it down on your work bench. At about 3:17 in your video you are blowing the carb off with compressed air. You will notice here the gaskets inadvertently blowing off the work surface. This is not a problem if you are replacing them, however, that main jet was still lying there beside the fuel transfer plate. My tip is this: secure that main jet before you hit the compressed air. As I have already stated, I had to learn this lesson the hard way. I carelessly blew that main jet away and I have yet to find it. That was about a year ago. Yes, I had to buy another one. Anyway, thank you again for your video.
Yes that main jet is very small and easily lost. I haven't lost one for one of these carbs yet but I did once loose one for a blower.I usually try to keep the main jet away from the compressed air jet. Usually it goes in the ultrasonic cleaner and gets blown off by itself when It comes out. The tray really helps keep parts like this from getting lost.
i just rebuilt one of these Nikki carbs and it is also surging. you mentioned to adjust the mixture screw which should fix it, do i adjust it at full throttle or at low idle?
also this damn nikki piece of shit caused the engine to flood with gas and it poured out when i removed the damn sparkplug. why does it make the engine flood?
Craftsman 1963 the needle is not sealing the fuel inlet. The solenoid is to prevent backfires not fuel entering the carb. Best practice is to install a fuel shutoff valve, just in case. Been there!
I lost the main yet just when taking the carburetor apart for cleaning so add that to the list to watch out for.
man that was great it's hard to find this exact carb on RUclips thanks. nice and to the point.
Showed me exactly what I needed to see.
The main jet little brass came out as I was cleaning the carb. One side has little ridges, the other side is smooth. Which way does it have to face when reinserting it back into the main jet?
Looking for the same answer. Did you find out?
Maybe a little late, but in case it helps other people...the little brass jet goes down into the hole with the ridges and o-ring facing downward. The larger flat side faces upward when you're dropping it into the tube. Use a small drill bit to straighten it out inside the tube and press it in flat. When you flip that white plastic part over to view it from the other end, you should see the jet sitting just about flush with the edge of the white plastic. That's why the one end of the jet is smaller than the other and has the o-ring, so it seats down inside the end of the tube. I hope that helps someone.
I have one similar that is giving me problems and I have an identical one on another crapped out mower. Only difference is one has the solenoid plug on the bottom and the other is a solid bowl. Do you think they would be interchangeable? Just put the solid bowl on the other carb?
Can you do it again in HD my friend? Difficult to see some things.
Thank you very much for the video.
Good video. Best laugh I’ve had in a while. Whoops, there go my gaskets. Definitely something I would do. 🤣
In the repair manual, it notes that there is a spring between the plastic body and the carb bowl, but I swear when i took mine apart there wasn't one. Either that or it's gone forever. I see that yours doesn't have a spring. Do some versions of the carb not have one?
I also swear that my main jet fell out when I removed the solenoid with the carb still assembled. I did not put it back in the top for that reason, but I think that was wrong, based on your video. Thanks for the help!
Bill Burke I have seen a few with a spring but most don't have one. The main jet shouldn't be able to fall out of the bottom unless someone took it apart before and put it back together wrong. It can only be installed properly from the top.
When you placed the main jet back into the plastic carb body, which in goes in first? The end with the o-ring?
yes
That’s why I’m here as well. Guess he never responded.
Hi great video What part number is the rebuild gasket set you used. Thanks
Good looking brother......preciate the walk through. Thanks!
Great video. Had trouble finding one that dealt with my carb specifically. Only think I didn't do when I went at this the first time was try to set the main jet in place with the drill bit. I took it apart and tried that, but it didn't help. My carb seems to still fill with gas and flood out the engine. By turning the fuel line shutoff to almost closed I can get the engine to run smooth. But then when I try to drive fast or engage the mower it stalls and quits, from not enough fuel I am guessing. Any ideas what might be the issue? Someone else suggested that even with a new pin in the float, maybe the orifice itself is worn and letting fuel run by the float....
A nikki should only require the gasket and seat, and if you have a separate O ring for the fuel inlet that has to be replaced as well, beyond that I would look at the plastic carb body.
How do you take the needle out? Is that the part with the black cap and spring?
Great video
What are the part numbers in those paks ???
Hi. how dose the main jet go back in the tube???,,,,dose the oring go in first ???,,,,or dose the flat head go in first,,,,,,my fell out,,,,thanks
+skirtdevil Skinny O-ring end goes in first, then press it in place with the back of a drill bit. The plastic carb body wont sit flush if you put the main jet in backwards.
Thanks for the question and reply!
I found this and your other video on the Briggs engine extremely useful. We have the same motor as you, the 13.5hp. I wonder if you can help with another issue. We had to replace the ignition lock and the solenoid but we can't get the LED ignition lamp to spark up at the first position of the key, instead it lights up only when we move the key to the start position, as soon as we let go of the key the engine stops. If we bridge the wires the ignition lamp glows but when wired to the key nothing. We have the wiring diagram and all leads are correct. Do you have any ideas? Kind regards Rich
Excellent video!
Awesome! Thank you. VERY helpful.
Thx,thats what i needed to know,can u run the jet with no seal on it,cant find an o-ring that small that will let the jet sit down all the way or i have problems having the white plastic body mount up tight to the carbs aluminum body.That must be one seriously small o-ring.I take it that u dont want gas sneeking past the jet to the outside off the emulsion tube.Mine never came with an oring to begin with but i got mower used and it does show a seal in the Nikki parts schemtic.
warren hawthorne You can try but it may run a bit rich, the Nikki carburetors are very picky. I never remove that seal and have yet to see a main jet without one.
Great info,my question is does the main jet have an o-ring on it before inserting into white plastic body and is there a right and wrong way it goes in,thx
warren hawthorne yes, a very small one. It has to go in from the top, or it won't fit.
Excellent how to video.....did you ever find your gaskets that you launched at 3:17?
Why would I need to? I have new ones.
Little they cost? I had to give 50 usd for the same thing. How about u ? the main problem i have been having, is the choke sticking. I noticed the rod on the choke has no spring to filp it open when taken off at the throttle knob. If one holds just slight pressure imitating intake suction the choke valve is pulled closed easily, a flaw in design per nikki, Deere, and briggs..... The rod is basically free floating on that plastic part that slides, any solution, light spring maybe ???
Do they all have that base gasket,cause mine didn’t have one.should I put one?
All the Nikkis do. walbros are a completely different carburetor.
Main jet part number? A piece fell out the other day I thought it was the broken piece off the fuel selenoid. I can start my 15.5 hp and when I shut the fuel shut off it runs better or right until it runs out of fuel then turn valve back on to keep it running.
Will the walbro automatically replace the nikkis?
The walbro LMT is a direct replacement for the Nikkis. You will need to look up your engine's model to find the part numbers.
What are the tips for adjusting the needle valve after engine testing? Trial & Error? 1.5 turns always? At mid-throttle I have urge to backfire pop and rough running.
adjust till it runs rough one way, then adjust till it runs rough the other way, then stick it in the middle of those points. Usually I just set it by feel if it it pops or sputters but often I just put it back where it was and have no issues.
@@pfun41 Thank you for the video! The 1.5 turn suggestion worked well enough and not much tweaking needed.
ok thx,great help.U should open a forum!!
I just replaced the main gasket in mine and it's leaking all over the place. I replaced everything and did it correctly but it's still leaking. It leaked so much that it started flowing into the crankcase. I have no idea what the problem is.
Thanks for the video, man, I really appreciate it.
well, i ordered the kit, rebuilt it, cleaned it up and still flooded, took it off like 4 times, but today i found my problem, there's a little hole in the carb body right by the float lol after i opened it and cleaned it up it ran fine
I feel like I am having the same problem you did. I have rebuilt twice now, still surging and flooding. Where is this hole you missed because I think I am missing it as well!
I'm actually repairing one of these right now. I have a spring in my bowl right above and center with the solenoid at the bottom of the bowl. I didn't see a single spring in your video here but we have absolutely identical carbs. what could this be? previous small engine mechanic mistake?
No, some Nikki carburetors have that spring, some don't. Its to help keep the plastic carb body seated. These Carburetors are mostly the same but they do vary slightly.
mine floods, than i take the spark plug out and it has gas on it, and it shoots gas out the filter when i crank it, any advice?
Inlet needle or carb body seal.
+pfun41 thank you!
U DA MAN!
You could've tried going through the main jet with something like a carb return spring before disturbing that molded bowl gasket. It either means replacing the gasket vor letting it dry out for a day or two, if it's not a pile of goo.
That wouldn't get the emulsion tube passages clean, or get gunk out of the bottom of the bowl. I always replace the gaskets on these as insurance anyway, they don't cost much so why risk it.
@@pfun41 You are correct on both. However sometimes, it is a no pay job and the customer still wants instant gratification. Thank you for the response.
And rock on bro!
Can the CENTER brass tube be removed ??????
No, and it's not necessary to do so.
Sorry,i dident explain correctly.I realize the jet can only go in the white plastic from one way but the jet is shaped like a top hat,does the threaded end of the main jet go in first or last or does it matter.Thx again
warren hawthorne It's not threaded. drop it into the plastic body narrow end first, then press it down with a drill bit. I haven't tried but I presume if you install it backwards the plastic body will not seat properly to the metal body.
Nice 👍
Thanks this really helped.
could oyu PLEASE SHOW how to adjust the carb? correct screw settings?
There's only an air screw on these. Typically I don't touch it unless it surges just a little. Then I'll adjust it by feel until the engine runs smoothly.
Thanks
Not my problem exactly, mines a 24 hp but the principle is the same. The in formation all applied. I was thinking this was my problem also. We shall see. Thanks
+Jm Schull Ah, the V-twin Nikki. They're a breed all their own. Same basic concept excapt there's 2 emulsion tubes.
Very helpful Thanks
THANK YOU SIR
I just pulled the Nikki carb off my 17.5hp. It's running rich flooding out and can't find anything wrong? Just noticed that my main jet is on the end if the tube?
The inlet needle or gaskets may be bad, either can allow fuel into the carburetor uncontrollably and cause your symptoms.
Thanks for the reply! It had the elect fuel shut off go bad a while back. I managed to get it running with the old one. Some how I think when I was messing with it last year I must have lost the main jet. I whipped one out on the lathe and got it running today. It has a new fuel fuel shut off now too. Great video!
You should really consider getting a proper main jet if you lost one. Small engine aren't that picky but if the mixture is too rich it can wash out the cylinder walls.
I plan on replacing the carb soon. I can get a new one from ebay for not much more than what the parts cost.
Do you know if there is a different carb that can replace the Nikki carb?
The intek was also available with a Walbro LMT, as long as it is correctly sized for the engine it should bolt right on.
pfun41 thanks for the info. But every time I get one thing fixed I find something else wrong. Like it needs a new starter, battery, solenoid, and today I found that the 18 yr. mower needs a alternator. I am stopping at that. More money than the lady that owns it wants to spend. We are already at $175.00.
@@tonybirdwell2917 I have never seen a mower that needs that many electrical parts. In fact, of the countless mowers Ive dragged in from backyards I think I've had a bad starter 2 or 3 times. I may have had a failed stator once.
pfun41 I have heard that same thing from several people. She had her ex. supposedly “work” on it. Not sure what he did to it. Looks as though he used more than 12volts dc. To have those problems.
i noticed you did not put the spring in between the bowl and transfer tube
Not all carburetors have the spring.
Old style has spring holding main jet in. Otherwise goes in the fuel transfer tube as described. Two different styles. Know what you're working on first.
I have several of these carbs. You don't show inserting the SEAT into the plastic base. This can cause and often does cause flooding.
I cleaned my single barrel Nikki carb due to water in the gas. It ran rich afterwards and I've taken it apart 3 times since and spent countless hours on the internet trying to understand what's happening. I even replaced the bowl/float gasket and o-ring, and checked the valve clearance (.004" to .006" for Briggs). I've just realized that the main jet is missing (probably from me blowing it out with compressed air). All this time I've been thinking that the brass emulsion tube was the jet. So if your engine is running rich all of a sudden after cleaning the carb, check to see if your jet is still there at the end of the white plastic fuel transfer tube body before adjusting the valve timing or replacing the bowl gasket.
outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
Thank u very much!!!!!!
Cats Whisker? OK. " Here Kitty Kitty Kitty, old Boy"
My neighbor asked me why I was chasing his cat around the yard with scissors... I told him, because I don't have a cat. Somehow that worked for him.
tried to follow but never saw how to remove the cover of the needle
and my choke does not spring open. the re-assembly jumped too much
Cover of needle?
@@pfun41 : I removed the solenoid, the two screws, then pulled out the cup.
the nylon assembly was in the cup and I tapped it to get it out. the parts came apart faster than I could see.
the small brass orifice with the o-ring rolled across the foot pads.
when I cleaned out the carb and put that brass part on the exposed side of the nylon, the solenoid would not seat.
when I put the brass part inside of the long nylon tube and pushed in, then re-assembled, it went together without problems.
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now, when I try to start, it starts right up for 10 seconds, then dies and will not re-start.
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I am on e-bay and it seems it would be easier to buy a new carb than to buy the parts to fix this one.
alas, my mower is getting lost in the tall grass and another week will go by without it running.
@@dave-in-nj9393 You have the jet in the right spot. It sounds like its not getting enough fuel flow. Either the needle isn't in right or you have fuel supply issues.
@@pfun41 : thanks, in the morrow, I will test the fuel pump and filter and make sure that part is all right.
the only part of the carb I did not take apart was the needle on the top.
there is a plastic sleeve that only allows about a half turn.
OK, thank you, mine was surging.
I was told today by a small engine mechanic that all the Nikki carbs are the same for riders. I find this a little doubtful.
Comment?
No, they vary a bit. As I mentioned some have a different seal design, I also wouldn't doubt that there are different main jet sizes, being that they are used on engines of different sizes and HP. Some also contain a spring to keep the carb body seated while others do not. Other than that the rider versions are all pretty similar. There are more variations used on other types of engines. Ive seen them on generators without the afterfire solenoid.
pfun41 I should have mentioned he did say as long as the linkages were the same. But, being familiar with appliance parts, I know some can look the same and be different. That being said, there are appliance parts with different part numbers that will interchange.
chidorrii videoo compa
got a Nikki card gas just runs through we changed the nedil and all its still leaking
Do you know if theres another part number that will work? I cant find mine, its699475, Thanks
+gator mcclusky What do you mean you can't find it? Most of these carburetors are nearly identical, most will interchage easily provided they are from similar size and style engines.
I got it. Your right. Thanks
Never use a wire to clean jets,you risk enlarging the orifice.The best thing is a cat's whisker,really,stiff enough to remove the gunk but won't damage the jet.
Deborah Dinnan I did as you suggested...my cat caught on fire...He still won't come near me...
pretty good video but seems like I mostly saw blue gloves and not the parts...sorry
For more details and further assistants, read outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
Correction!! The Fuel inlet O-ring is not 1.5mm thick. The pack I got was mislabeled. That size is too thick. The exact thickness is 1.2.mm. The Inside Diameter of the O-rings I'm using is 6 mm. This size works fine so far but the Inside Diameter of the original O- ring is a tiny bit bigger. Probably an I.D. of 6.5. I won't stop until I have the exact perfect size. I'll let you know when I find it.
Kits are to dang high price
These carbs are pure crap.No brass seat with a spring loaded needle valve.Briggs should and I think there is a class action lawsuit because of these carbs.You mention that if there is a fuel cut off there is a problem.That may and may not be the case.That fuel cutoff is the best insurance you can ever have especially with second hand or older model tractors or mowers.Ive seen brand new out of the box carbs leak.Ive also seen several mowers burn and catch fire because of flooding/dumping gas into the motor.You need a fuel cut off for safety.NEVER DEPEND ON THAT NEEDLE to seat itself.A tiny amount seeping past that needle over say 2 days or a week until you use your mower or tractor will drain your gas tank.Again,NIkki carbs are pure shit junk.Briggg out to reimburse everyone that bought a single cylinder or twin for that matter motor with a Nikki carb.People bitch about Tecumseh carbs"which I love".Work on a Nikki and you will see.I guarantee you will be using a fuel shut off on it.
I own a mower with 2000 hours on the original Intek and Nikki carb. No leaks. Most homeowners will not install a fuel shutoff unless there is a fuel related problem. There are exceptions.