Along the way I will make a special place for myself for this hobby. I do it for pleasure, I am not a professional and I do not work every day. Thank you!
I changed the opamps with the OPA1602. I left everything else untouched at first. The bass got a little deeper and the highs became alive. The overal result was a lot more detailed and "aerial". I bought and used an smd heat gun, made it a lot easier. Also, I had a problem. After the change I had terrible noises. The problem was the soldering paste, so dont foget to clean it up good at the end.
I'm glad you tried this way and that everything worked perfectly. Thanks for the advice, I honestly did not have such problems. Change the 3 capacitors, it's worth the experience.
Hello again! It's been a while since my last comment. I did not left anything untouched in this period. I just finished my last mod. I removed almost anything but the tda7294s. First of all I replaced the control pod with one I made. Satellites became full range. But they are not "satellites" any more, they are Magnat bookshelf speakers. Second, I completely removed all opamps and everything around them. Caps, resistors, all of it. I remade the original circuits for the 5 speakers which serve DC protection with high end caps and the opa1612s. For the subwoofer I made a new circuit, having removed every filter there was. I added gain and crossover frequency controls, like on the diy pod I made. In total a passive 2nd order on the pod and a first order on the sub. Next, i removed the filters around the TDAs. That include half the 22uf caps, ones that are on the opposite side of the output cable. Soldered the pads together. Removed and replaced the input smd caps, both in size and capacitance. I also removed the 100uf NP cap on the opposite side of the board, it was part of another unwanted filter for the sub btl. I removed much more than I can recall. I also replaced the bootstrap caps with 68uf ones, to support the much lower in frequency bass. Almost nothing remained the same. The result was to feel the inaudible tones in the "Bass I love you" song. New speakers, new reset crossovers, different gain on the sub on different frequencies. Surely does sound like a professional subwoofer now. Sub hits down from 3Hz. Speakers took over the mids, they are alive now. Highs are crystal, due to the speaker tweeters. Sub now plays subsonic, and frequency response is adjustable. It ain't Logitech anymore, it's mine. PS: We blindly followed Almi's upgrade, and one offset was the 80V cap for the pod, which i still have :D It doesn't have to be 80v, 25 or more can do it.
Wow !! You can say that you have built your own system. Congratulations for the work done and for this passion. How can I lower the frequency of the subwoofer without too much investment? I don't like frequencies over 35 40 Hz at all .. and this logitech only knows above ..
@@ElektroGamer30 Thanks! 2 out of 5 opamps in the subwoofer along with the resistors and capacitors around them are responsible for the signal gain and the crossovers for the sub. You can spot them, around them the capacitors and resistors are named C6xx and R6xx respectively. I tried to replace some of the resistors with different values in order to change the crossovers' cut off frequencies but they are tied with the gain circuit, it became unstable and I got a lot of noise. The best thing you can do is to remove them all, and place two active second order low pass filters (that is what the original circuit has) with cut off frequency and gain of your liking. You have to study the circuits before tho! I placed 3 passive first order filters, and the cut off isn't as steep as I'd want it. But it gets the job done and the walls shaking. Try to add adjustable gain as well, because for a narrower frequency band the signal becomes weaker. All the parts are cheap, the most expensive by far are the opamps we used. You will only need 2 though. Good luck and happy studying!
@@ElektroGamer30 Wima caps are a bit pricey too. I had bought some from Mouser, used them, but when I needed some more I did not want to spend more money and went for some common film caps out of a local store.
At that time I had just settled in Germany, so I didn't have quality (toys). But now I have advanced a little bit, a better unit to glue, greater knowledge, all along the way, no one was born a professional!
Best mod for the old Z5500 system was to add a set of 1" dome tweeters to the front channels (in parallel with included 3kHz crossovers £30 the pair) and add an EQ (15 band) inline before the controller inputs to pull up the deep lows n highs, slightly pull down around 3kHz, run in straight 2.1 stereo mode (center speaker not driven). Awesome for golden era 1995 Drum n Bass ;), great for both loud or quiet listening. If this is to your taste, the cheap n cheerful upgrades really bought the old z5500 system to life!
@@tibby1239 Hi, currently using an old cheap ProSound (Maplin) EQ, 15 12db sliders per channel, now I just tend to set and forget. Not a top end hi-fi setup but enough to shake the lounge when required ;). Experiment with anything that works to give a sound that you like for your style of tunes. Edit: Forgot to mention, sub location placement, orientation and room shape is very important. I prefer to put the sub woofer in a brick walled corner of the house, facing ~45Deg into the room. Although pretty good, I still get cancellation at varying sub frequencies around what is a 20ft by 20ft 'L' shaped room. Physics can also be a bitch, no matter what setup you have.
Hello Bro I am Brazilian and i have a Logitech Z5500 that has been around for 15 years but the Pod's display doesn't show any image, it stays lit but without description. I even exchanged the display for one bought on Aliexpress, I changed it and the same thing happened, it turns on, it lights up but the description doesn't appear, I returned the Original and I'm using it anyway but I would like to fix it, would you know how to guide me? discover the problem? Could it be a capacitor?
Olá, você precisa fazer algumas verificações. Primeiro, se você verificar a fonte de alimentação no POD Control, você deverá ter +18v - 18v +8V. É possível que a fonte de alimentação de 8V seja mais fraca!
@@ElektroGamer30 Eu testei todas as tensões +18 -18 e 8V e estão todas corretas. E agora o que faço:( ? Eu gosto muito do meu Logitech Z5500 e gostaria muito de estar concertando ele. Quando deixo o POD desligado por um tempo depois de um tempo o display volta a mostras a descrição mas com o tempo ele ligado vai se apagando aos poucos.
@@igobrgameplay Na ponte de controle existem 3 reguladores de tensão, se não me engano, verifique qual tensão você tem neles também. Teoricamente você deveria ter entre 3/5v Tente substituir também o grande capacitor dentro do POD Control. É 16V 1000uf
Hello and thank you! Unfortunately, I do not own such a system and my knowledge about it is very limited. But with any audio system, if you replace the outdated and low-quality components with high-quality ones, the sound will change considerably! That's exactly what I did in this video! I put new capacitors of higher quality than what was put on the system from the factory!
I have no way to compare .. I only have this system that is already modified! But it is a very big change. The sound is feeling better, stronger and clearer.
Heatgun lmao that thing looks like an ordinary hairdryer. Don't get me wrong I find that great, just recently figured out that the temperature of a hairdryer on highest setting is not actually that far off of a Heatgun on lower settings when you measure right at the exhaust. So cudos for creativity. ;D
For a true Hi-Fi experience out of this system I feel like that the control pod stands as a problem. I had bought a chinese amplifier from ebay using TDA7294 (same on Z-5500) to replace my broken amp from Z-2300 a few years ago. The performance out of this thing was absolutely jaw dropping. No crossovers, full range speakers, bass that goes down to 1Hz for both speakers and sub. Nothing that Z-5500 could ever acchieve out of their design. The difference of course lies within the preamplifier, hence the need to ditch the control pod that does this job for the Z-5500. I have drown the schematic out of the preamplifier and i'm planning to redesign it as a new "control pod" utilizing the same DB-15 connector. Contact me to share the 2-channel preamplifier schematic
And after this change, know that the system has come to life. It even became much stronger and after the second way in which I modified the control pod, the system is unrecognizable, I intend in time to change all the capacitors with some higher quality ones both in the subwoofer and in the control pod.
The frequency response for the integrated circuit is 20Hz to 20KH, and that is already with a loss of 3db. What do you think the TDA7294 will give you at 1Hz. Further loud low frequencies can potentially damage some speakers, especially ones that are "unloaded" such as bass reflex designs (ported/ducted/passive radiator). Sealed box and acoustic suspension designs are less easily harmed but it can still happen. And what do you call "full range speakers" ? A lot are already losing 3db at 35Hz. If you have B&W 803 D4 (>20000$), then you can go to 16Hz, but you won't drive those with a TDA7294 ;) There are reasons why Subs that goes down to 12Hz like I have at home costs >1500$, and if you ever heard that you will see that's something else when playing real low frequency then a 35Hz - 43kHz full range speaker ;) Which doesn't mean you get amazing results for such a small investment, but claiming basses that goes down to 1Hz, then I'm suspicious.
@@PaulDeMeersman the frequency response is 20Hz to 20kHz for the given schematic by STM. And also if you push a smooth gain at the preamps on the low frequencies you also get a higher response at the lows ;) I believe you are not stupid, you can search what a full range speaker is if you don't know already. So why ask me? -3 dB for a bookshelf @ 35Hz is pretty good. About the subwoofers now, I really don't get the prices for a well performing subwoofer. Maybe branding, finishes or exclusivity. I have modified my humble dual Z-5500 subs to play down to any frequency and not that crap >35Hz. I still have that original enclosures with the shallow ports, tuned to 38Hz. Way too high, and I have already designed a new enclosure for both subs tuned to 26Hz. They already rip at 20Hz despite the enclosure, I just cant imagine the result with them.
@@GoodVibesOnly1914 I'm sorry for the late reply! Yes I removed the control pod (to achieve full range signal for the speakers) and replaced it with a head I made, simple enough. I also replaced the preamplifiers inside the subwoofer, with something equally simple with the head. This was done mostly for the subwoofer preamplifier which originally implements the crossovers (35Hz low, 125Hz high) tied with the preamp gain. This means that I removed/replaced capacitors, resistors and op amps. Along the procedure you can throw in some MUSES opamps that the $25000 speakers of the other dude most possibly have, they cost $50-80 each, but I went with the decent OPA1612 from TI. After the rework a total of 6 are needed, 3 for the head and another 3 for the second stage preamp inside the box. Of course I needed to re implement the low pass filters for the subwoofer and instead of active (using opamps) filters I made a 3-stage passive filter. 2 stages on the head and one in the subwoofer. Cut-off frequency of course selectable. The only thing I didn't do is to order a different enclosure with lower tuning frequency (38Hz for the original enclosure). After I completed the mod, I got a used second subwoofer, I soldered a splitter and we are talking about clubbing bass now.. Really sorry for the extra long reply, I would be really glad to guide you if you are interested into the mod. But be aware it is much time consuming and requires hours of soldering B-)
I didn't make it on the z2300, it's a bit weak in manufacturing, it's not worth it, I say. Compared to the z5500 which is a 5.1 system of 1010W and 505W respectively with different functions (DTS 96/24, DTS decoder, Dolby Digital, Dolby Pro Logic II). Probably a moding on the z2300 would not be too noticeable, I don't know how much the sound could be improved. Thanks!
It's easier and much cheaper to do on Z2300. It has 5 opamps instead of 11 in Z-5500 and much less capacitors. You can change the final amplifiers too, you will get a boost in wattage. The trick is that the opamps in Z-2300 have different dimensions than those in the Z-5500. Z-2300 uses JRC4565, check the form factor and get something high end in that size.
Hi, i assume that the 18v connection for the control pod is the WA88? If not which one should have the 18v? I changed a 50v capacitor which was overdate but that didnt fix my issue. Im missing the 18v connection on the preamp board( it does have the 8v). The voltage regulator gets an 18v input - output 7.8v.
In POD Control you must have +18V on the brown wire with white and -18V on the black wire with white and +8V on the red wire with white. You can watch all my videos in the logitech Z5500 playlist, there you will find a lot of videos, one useful one is (Logitech Z5500 POD CONTROL power supply) which shows the connections for the POD Control power supply without a subwoofer! WA10 +8V WA3 -18V WA1 +19V ruclips.net/p/PLsgyMOzSu2Eq9WmEVhE2aZzsZ22VpJyPS
@@ElektroGamer30 i have seen all your videos. That isnt the issue. The issue is on the mainboard. There is no 18v or -18v on the wa90 connection of the mainboard. While the voltage regulator does get 18v input from the capacitor. I dont know where to find the problem. The pod is not the problem
@@hamzaboulmika4487 Then you have problems with 78M18A or 79M18A. You must have -18v and -36V on one pin, and +36v and +18v on the other regulator. Or maybe the transformer does not output current on both phases.
@@ElektroGamer30 exactly, what i was thinking after my diagnose. The 2 chips dont receive any current. I will take a look at the chips. I think i grilled the transformer accidently.. i dont receive the 35v anymore in the 50v capacitors. So i have to fix the transformer first. And then head back to the chips. Thanks for the help and ill come back for you with info
@@hamzaboulmika4487 Attention to the transformer, it is not a very high-quality one! If you find a cheaper one on ebay, you better replace it! around $10 I saw that a used one costs you! I'm glad I could help you, keep up the good work and let me know how your repair is progressing!
Thanks! I'm glad I can help people with my posts. Unfortunately, I do not know the values of these capacitors, and their verification is currently impossible.
Just finished the mod with the 2 Elna cap, and doubling the sub wire gauge. Very very hard to say if there's a difference. I make sure to have real elna. Anyway, it works, i did some test before and after with song Almaa - dreams, it got quick heavy bass note, and around the same dB level from my receiver, sub fade out before all my surround speaker just as before. At the end, can't be worst, and I have should check the max A draw before and after, forgot about it.
I'm glad you managed to do it this way. For me it was a pretty big difference after changing the 2 big capacitors, and the 25v one for the control pod!
Hello brother, greetings. I currently have problems with resistors r21 and r22, I changed them for 27 Ohm resistors and R22 burned again. can you help me thanks!!!
Hello, you need to check the resistance routes! It is possible that a capacitor (or several capacitors) is short-circuited or devalued! I don't have the system disassembled to be able to see and measure to say exactly what the problem is or where it comes from! With a multimeter you can check the circuit route! The resistant needles, if I'm not mistaken, take care of the standby part of the amplifiers. Also check the transistors on the preamplifier board, it may be a defective one! (Pay attention to the PID of the POD Control and the subwoofer, if they are not identical they can cause damage to the motherboard or even the complete damage of the POD Control)
Kullandığım kapasitörler daha kaliteli, diğer firmaların iyi olup olmadığına ne diyeceğimi bilmiyorum! Ön hoparlörlerdeki ses düşük çünkü 5.1 ses sistemini kullandığınızda surround ses seviyesini maksimuma ayarlıyorsunuz ve bu nedenle ön hoparlörlerin sesi daha yavaşmış gibi görünüyor! Çevre sesi seviyesini %50'ye ayarlarsanız sesin tüm hoparlörler için eşit derecede güçlü olduğunu fark edeceksiniz! Bu aynı zamanda merkezi hoparlör için de geçerlidir!
In my opinion, replacing the large capacitors had a big impact on the subwoofer. But all changes have an impact on the sound. Each modification brings a small improvement, and all the modifications together result in a much more qualitative and detailed sound!
I've had my Z5500 for over 10 years it's it's been absolutely awesome until a few weeks ago. It started getting scratchy sound and cutting in and out then one day the sound just stopped completely. The control unit seems to be working perfect. All the functions work with the remote control and when I change the input source the sub makes a little rumble like it always has but no sound at all now when I play anything. I took the control unit apart to check solder joints and reflowed a few that looked questionable plus cleaned up the PCB and put it back together but no change, still no sound from any of the input sources. I took the sub apart and checked that over and it looked to be in pristine condition. No bad looking solder joints and no swollen or leaking caps. It looked like it just rolled off the assembly line. I've been searching the web trying to find a way to fix this but to no avail. I'd really love to get this back in working order. I can't find any schematics for this unit to figure out where the problem might lie. Any suggestions that you might have as to why I have no sound when everything appears to be working normally would be greatly appreciated if you have any. Thanks. I'm holding off on buying the Z-906 until I've exhausted all avenues of fixing this. Why oh why can't the Z906 have an awesome subwoofer too.
Also try the system sound test. On the remote control you have an up button in the right corner for the sound test. Turn up the volume by 3 to 4 lines, press the button and wait for each speaker to make a noise while the display shows which speaker is being tested, so you can see if the problem is from the control pod or the subwoofer housing. However, I think the problem is from the control pod, do not pass the signal.
@@ElektroGamer30 The sound test doesn't produce any sound either. The test button is on the top left on my remote. I've been contemplating buying a used control pod on e-Bay but don't want to waste $150 if that isn't the problem. I think I bought my system in 2006 or 2007, can't remember for sure. Mine has the speaker wire clips and not the plugs so does that make a difference or will any working pod work with any system regardless of which revision it is?
@@DrD6452 So more than likely the control bridge is defective. Not every revision works. You need one that is as close as possible to the one you have. I will make a video on how you can modify the subwoofer box and use it without a control pod.
Hello, do you have any updates? I got incoming for repair a system that had the mute line busted an all ICs except center, it has a dedicated line. Your standby line may suffer the same problem, and it is shared along all ICs. Also do check the voltage regulators that are exact in the center, and their respective 36 ohm resistors. They feed all the control signals and opamps.
Siemano. Może poradzisz gdzie szukać? Głośniki mam od nowości i po 10 latach ostatnio zaczęły się wyłączać jakby się przegrzaly (mimo że nic nie grało) i włączać po kilku minutach na nowo - to było sporadycznie. Aż w tym tygodniu grały, potem wyłączyłem kompa i już następnego dnia po podaniu zasilania nie wstają- panel wyświetla linie bez podświetlenia, sub słychac że zasilanie na transformatorze ma. Jeszcze się nie zabierałem za pomierzenie wstępnych napięć, ale raczej celuje tutaj w uszkodzenie panelu. Jeszcze jedno, ampa pewnie z tych modów w PL nie dostanę za normalną kasę? Co z resztą? Do panelu ladowales te same ampy co do suba? Dzieki z góry
Cześć. Przepraszam, ale nie rozumiem wszystkiego, co jest w Twoim tekście. Jeśli pokazuje tylko kreski na wyświetlaczu, to problemem jest mały kondensator 25V wewnątrz subwoofera. Przepraszamy za spóźnioną odpowiedź, ale nie otrzymałem powiadomienia! ruclips.net/video/jJs0bw-5pt0/видео.html
I've opened mine to fix the pulsating buzzing coming from subwoofer but didn't find anythin obvious to replace. I replaced few suspicious capacitors but that didn't help. I throw them away.
You don't have to give up so easily. Maybe your problem comes from the source that gives the sign. Try to give (TEST) on the remote control. See if and then you get those pulses in the subwoofer. There may be a problem with the Pod control. Here is a link to a video I made to solve the noise from all the speakers. ruclips.net/video/fFZLkstWMhM/видео.html
Hi, I for one say it's worth it, but it shouldn't exceed 100 euros. My systems look more than good (I modified a POD to communicate with two subwoofers) together they cost about 140 - 150 euros. They are capable of Dolby and DTS, have a digital port and 4 analog ports. I currently use both systems on a Philips TV and I am extremely satisfied with them. Logitech Z5500 Mod x 2 Subwoofer ruclips.net/video/IwjKWUaQo5c/видео.html
hi, did axial caps changed something in sound signature? acording to RamaChandra it gives nearly nothing, but last year he wrote addition to mod 3, which changes a little by using it as bridge with another.
@@el3ndiill These speakers are much better quality than those from logitech! In order for it to be a major change, you have to complete mode 3! Replacing the opamp in the POD and in the subwoofer makes a difference, you can hear more details in the song!
Hi, there is no way to reduce the performance of the subwoofer. Did you do exactly the same as in the video? Maybe you got fake capacitors. There are many Chinese capacitors under the name of famous companies. What exactly have you changed in your system?
@@ElektroGamer30 i cant upload the list from my ebay for seeing what im getting buy but yes its exactly the same capacitors and opamps with yours and i notice a little drop perfomance in the subwwofer only that.
@@2salonika I don't know what to say, I didn't see this decrease in performance. And there were several people who made that change, and no one said such a problem.
I LOVE these speakers! Mine started making a very loud hum when hooked up through optical cable. Any idea where I should look for the problem? And is this video just for a mod? Or is it repairing a problem? Thanks in advance!
Salut! As vrea sa adaug un potentiometru la sistemul meu antic (19 ani) z680 asemanator cu z5500 din care sa reglez volumul bass-ului/sub-ului mai jos decat acel minim 0.5 din consola. Unde ai lega acel potentiometru la sistemul z5500? Multumesc!
@@tarolaification Pe placa de amplificare, unde vin virele din POD control! Cauti firele ce au semnal de bass, si legi pe ele un potentiometru! Stiu ca la acest sistem a fost o problema cu bass ul, exect ca la X530 tot de la logitec, dar la acela am facut eu un video cum sa remediezi problema! Dar pentru z680 nu stiu exact ce poti sa faci! Doar daca il folosesti la pc sa dai din softwarul de sunet bassul mai jos!
@@ElektroGamer30 multumesc mult! Nu este o problema la sistem doar ca am mai imbatranit intre timp.. :) era acum cativa ani tutorial sa poti regla volumul din potentiometru intre 0.1-0.5 (ca exemplu) dar a imbatranit si el si a fost sters. La 0.5 liniute bass-ul in filme e prea mult ...acum :) Il folosesc pe optic cu un tv box android...fara root doar din potentiometru pot regla.
@@tarolaification Se poate modifica in pod sau pe placa din subwoofer, legata o rezistenta in paralel cu cea care este deja pe intrarea de la subwoofer! Dar nu am sistemul in fata pentru a putea spune cu exactitate unde trebuie pusa! Trebuie exact ca in acest videoclip facut de mine! ruclips.net/video/DCDA5lMWLG4/видео.html
Hello , I've got Logitech Z-5500 speakers , today after i back from work and start computer i see that Display of speakers shows Dots or looks like bricks. Do I have to change capacitors, please? If I turn it on(Blue light) after 1 min that automatically turn off (red light). Thx.
@@petervalasek1232 What capacitor did you put in place of the old one? How did the replacement go? if it is not fixed well to the base plate, it loosens and makes a cold contact! Was it well tinned? If you replaced the capacitor and it worked, then the problem is still there! I need more details about what you did to be able to help you!
Hello, the system is my personal one, I made these changes just for myself, but seeing the impact it has on the sound, I thought I'd share it with you for free on RUclips! And I want to mention that the system still works perfectly with these modifications, I even modified an identical subwoofer, now I have 2 subwoofers connected to a single POD Control! It has been working perfectly for 4 years!
Hello, and is there a difference in sound? I totally changed both systems from logitech and the sound is completely different from an original system without modifications! ruclips.net/video/tZlFfD_XHKs/видео.html
JBL is nothing too much over price bass booster system fooled people but logitech did amazing system no over price👌👍🏻and I know majority people fall in love with logitech me too hahaha.....😂
Hey bro, it's okay! Man, does this procedure that you did have any improvement in harmonic distortion or any improvement in audio fidelity? If yes how much is. You really had a substantial gain. And with this change, can you upgrade the subwoofer?
I am not good with terms in English, but next time when you unmelt something from the motherboard use an aspirin. It will clean and degrease the melting material.
Pasta decapanta nu e indicat sa o folosesti pe placa, e risc de scurtcircuit. Cel mai bun din cate stiu este sacazul, dar nu stiu daca se mai gaseste asa ceva. Dar daca pana acum ai folosit pasta si nu ai avut probleme, poti folosi pasta. Numai bine.👍
It is a film that transfers the heat, but protects it in contact with the metal part of the coolers. Do not touch (electrical contact) the metal surface with the back of the mosfets! It can be bought from several sites. Ebay for example!
Don't know if you tried it, but was your Elnas rolling evenly when you rolled them over the table? And how can you seperate the real ones with fake ones, you got an idea? Just got em in and am a bit suspicious..
Honestly, I was suspicious when I ordered these capacitors. But on receipt I measured them with a multimeter that has the function of measuring UF, and they have exactly 10000UF. I think that's the only way to find out if they're fake or not.
@@rammstein69 After replacing the two large capacitors, there is an improvement in the bass. Don't think that it sounds 3-4 times louder, but there is a difference!
@ ElektroGamer Is it worth to change the op amps ,i mean as sound quality ? i have in mind to do this but i want to change them with opa1656 x10 or OPA1678IDR
Hello i have a question about the capacitors, does the caps have a polarity, im speak for the 2 elnas ,1 nichicon and the 5 axial film caps and my other question is for installation of the opamps. its about the polarity of the opamp.. I must install it with a specific way? A photo will be help me a lot Than you!!!
Hi, yes, polarity matters in both capacitors and opamps. I don't have a picture but it can be seen very clearly in the video. On the capacitors you have a gray side. It looks like it is - and the other side is + At opamp it matters to position it exactly like the old one, with the notation up.
Hello, I have a little question to you. Where you buy your capacitors ? I try to find this components on the internet, but I can't find this 0.47uF 63V. Rest of capacitors (80V 4700uF and 63V 10000uF) is available on aliexpress, but 0.47uF 63V is very difficult to find.
Hey, did u buy the capacitors from aliexpress. If yes could u send me a link to the sellers page. Theres a lot of stuff on aliexpress and dont know if they're genuine so would appreciate ur help. Thanks
Hi, I don't know how you could do that. Maybe you are just looking for a thyroid transformer from a z5500 for USA. and replace it. I have no other idea.
Those 3 big caps are for the sub? Right now I'm using the z5500 sub on a complete 7.1 home theater with onkyo amp. For movies, the sub is perfect, deep and not too loud. But when I listen music and pump the volume at higher level, the sub feels weak, like if it doesnt get enough power. Im wondering if this mod can help.
I did not understand exactly how the z5500 is connected to another 7.1 system ... But if the logitech z5500 system is itself, the controller + amplifier in the functional subwoofer. YES this way will help. The bass helps the most by replacing the 2 big capacitors! After replacing them, the bass becomes very strong and deep!
@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you. Onkyo sub out is RCA. So I use RCA from Onkyo to 3.5mm Z5500 green jack. I do not use the Z5500 speaker, only sub. The z5500 pod only control sub volume.
Hello. The system with RCA connectors is part of the first generation. If I'm not mistaken, it was launched in 2004/5, and after 2007/8 it was improved and they removed RCA connectors + They brought new improvements!
@@ElektroGamer30 But the comand console is compatible with the next model? Can i use the old console with the new subwoofer? I don't know the electric scheme of both and i have fear that i will blow anything.
@@muitza86 Theoretically, it won't start. I don't think anything is burning, the power wires are reversed if I'm not mistaken. What PID does the old console have and what PID does the new one have? (Writes on the back of the console down on the metal stand on a small label.)
After the change, I had problems. All due to imperfect welds. Now I use professional tools, I have a video with them on my channel. After their change, and the correct welding, everything works until today, perfectly without problems. And I listen all the time with the volume over half. The sound is pleasantly changed after their replacement, both in the subwoofer box and in the control bridge (only those on the digital input, because I use the system on a smart TV with Dolby Atmos functions)
@@ElektroGamer30 I understand , because I think it is a very delicate and professional job . for this reason I want to know if I need to actually change the OPA1612AID to work, that is, just change the capacitors 5 x 0.47UF 63V Axial Film Capacitors 2 x Elna for Audio 63V 10000UF 1 x Nichicon 80V 4700UF Do you think it will work?
@@LucasWVigas You can change them one at a time and test them after each change. To be sure where the problem is coming from (if something didn't work well) Only after you change everything, you can realize the change that takes place in the sound. I didn't just test with changed opamps or just capacitors, to see what sound differences there are. I tested it briefly just to see that everything was going well. Like I said, I ran into the problem when I changed the opamp.
I have a z5500 and no sound is outputed from speakers but I hear sound when doing the test with the remote. could somebody help me with the solution to my problem?
@@ElektroGamer30 no sound at all. I connect to an external sound card on my computer and there is no sound and I tried playing music through the auxiliary port and I still get no sound output but if I connect my headphone sound is present in headphone. I have no clue what to do. so far all the components in the control pod looks good.
Hi i have a problem with my control pod it gets 5V on to the sub output pin from the vga connector grey wire can some one help me or at least tell me if its normal? It does that even when the console is off with to inputs connected to it at all the grey wire is completely disconnectec from the amplifier board its just the console defective i think
@@constantinjitariu1439 Daca functioneaza perfect, nu are rost sa iti bati capul cu el. Nu am timpul necesar sa il demontez, sambata primesc un pod defect si atunci o sa verific.
@@ElektroGamer30Thanks for help but i found one op amp almost shorted and it was puttin the 5V out i replaced it and it works i also bypassed de low pass and the subsonic filter
Why exactly do you replace all the capacitors? Are they sooo bad? And is that really worth it considering that the rest of the board aren't really high end components either? Serious question. I have no idea how capacitor quality influences sound I'm just here because either my AMP or the Controll unit of my z5500 is dead and i got this recommended and found it interesting.
This system had a problem with the 3 capacitors. Due to the vibrations due to the subwoofer, these 3 capacitors came to detach from the board, and then needles (cold soldering) appeared at the contact points of the capacitors. The 2 large capacitors are filtering, their replacement brought an extra bass. And the other 25v capacitor deals with the power supply of the control pod, if it is detached, the control pod does not receive power. Maybe that's the problem with your system.
@@ElektroGamer30 thx for the tip but i already checked, that one sits rock solid in place, in fact all PCBs ,(in the subwoofer as well as in the pod) seem to be completely fine (at least visually) nothing is loose, no burn marks no popped condensators. I'm actually pretty much out of ideas except for replacing the whole thing and at least desoldering the bass speaker to add it to the other system (at least that would give me somenkind of upgrade ;D) Still kinda sucks since I don't really need any extra bass right now, I'm in a small apartment with relatively thin walls and i already almost couldn't really use any bass because you immediately hear it in the surrounding Appartments.
@@kayburcky7146 The power supplies must be checked, from 220v as well as from the transformer to the motherboard. There is more work to be done to find out the cause of the problem.
@@ElektroGamer30 well it's quiet possible that I'm just too stupid to bridge a blown fuse with a screwdriver, i just measured the fuse with a multimeter and it seems to be blown. Could this whole problem be that trivial??? I literally put a screwdriver in the hole and tried to touch both (what looked like separate) contacts.... I'll try wrapping the fuse in some Aluminium foil next and if that still doesn't work I'll measure wether the fuse socket might be broken (insert the aluminum wrapped fuse and measure the contacts on the other side with the multimeter) this whole case gets weirder and weirder by the minute 😅 The thing I have suspected as a cause pretty much immediately was that I had the system connected to a master-slave power strip (because i hate having to pull plugs plugs every time to not have the room lit up like a Christmas tree from every damn standby led in all my devices) and plugged my notebooks thunderbolt dock in the master outlet. And one night when i just set the notebook to hibernate (usually low enough power draw to fall below the power strips threshold for the master outlet so the slaves get cut from power) the strip started rapidly switching on and of and i've been told amps really don't like this. Thanks a ton btw. For all the helpful tips. If you have any suggestions what i could measure in the PSU parts to look for blown stuff f.ex. i have a multimeter, i've already checked graphics cards for shorts (using resistance measurements), but I'm hella frightened by PSUs since the can still be live weeks after being unplugged because of the big condensators, and i've already fried more electronics than I'd like to admit because i tried to measure something and accidentally shorted something because i touched the wrong pins with the thing still being live (tried to figure out the pinout of a proprietary fan connector which ended up frying some transistor on the board....) Would help me a ton, but its totally fine if you don't want. I know how annoying it can be to be permanently asked to solve someone's electronic problems.
@@kayburcky7146 If the fuse is blown, it must be replaced with an identical one. It's not annoying to help with advice, but it's complicated without me having the system in front of me and making the necessary measurements. I can only guess what the problem may be. The capacitors remain charged for a long time, pay close attention to them. If you are not skilled enough, my advice is not to get more involved in repairing the system. After replacing the fuse, it must be checked if 220v reaches the thyroid transformer, and if it in turn transmits the necessary current to the motherboard. A common problem was with the connection cable from the control pod to the subwoofer (broken wires inside the cable) They must be measured with a multimeter.
salut! eu am un bazait care se aude din spatele subwooferului(amplificator cred) indiferent daca e oprit sau pornit. Ai vreo idee ce poate fi? am bazaitul de vreo 4 ani ,dar nu i-am dat importanta
Salut.Este ceva normal. intr-un fel sau altul. Este vorba de transformatorul toroidal. La mine apare cand sunt fluctuatii de curent, in rest este silentios. O rezolvare sincer nu am pentru aceasta "problema".
Thank you. I had problems with the center channel when I replaced the op amplifier. It had a very weak sound even at full volume. And there were some rustles. What kind of sounds do you hear? Sound Pop. Or rustling? If noise is present and the system is muted, there may be a problem with the amplifier board in the subwoofer.
@@ElektroGamer30 Ive tested it with new optical cable, changed satellites. It is a rustling when i stop playing something. It is also in Test mode in the background at the right speaker channel. If i muted at the System its silent. Maybe i look for a new subwoofer..
@@MrSonnyjack If you press the mute button and that noise is no longer heard, there may be a problem with the control pod. Right now I got a control pod with this problem, it has a noise in all the speakers.. When the system receives a signal from the digital or analog port, it has a noise on all the speakers. If it does not receive a signal, that noise is not heard, or if the mute button is pressed.
@@ElektroGamer30 thanks for the fast response. Yes if i press mute at the remote all sound and also the rustling is gone and i also think that only if it has a signal then also the noise comes in. Is it possible to repair the control panel? Maybe the noise comes from the fuse? Tomorrow i will change it because they look really milky maybe thats also the reason..
@@MrSonnyjack Looks like you have the same problem as me. It's just that in my case it manifests itself in all speakers. I managed to control only a little in the control pod. I found some burnt resistors. I don't have a functional one to follow. And I don't even have time to check everything.
3 года назад+2
This is the z906 amplifier, if you give me some advice and explain any changes I need to make I could upgrade my amplifier. file:///D:/Cartelle/Immagini/WhatsApp%20Image%202021-03-18%20at%2012.19.52.jpeg
I do not know the Z906 enough about to pictures to encourage you to do this or that. As far as I can see, all the covers are glued with a black glue to the mainboard. It's a bit of a hassle to change something on this system. But any capacitor can be replaced with a much better one. This is nothing new! I confidently recommend capacitors: Elna Silmic II, Cerafine, Tonerex or Nichicon.
Hi bro, I love the video very much, so I want to do that upgrade like you, but I have a problem with Z5500 the fuse blow and I change it, but the same thing happens, so I open the box and one of the amp TDA7294 was burnt so I change it, and the same thing happens fuse blow, so can you help, please.
Hello. When you changed the fuse, did the system turn on for a few minutes or did you press the button on the back of the subwoofer and then the fuse blew?
Anyone with these speakers wanna tell me what this problem could be: So recently my z5500s have been playing sound for a minute, then just randomly cutting off, the speakers are still on (the pod still has the lights on and displays) but no sound is being outputted. Turning it off and then back on does fix the issue for like a second, then the sound just cuts off again. I've tried the common debugging, tried a new PC, tried new cables, etc. I want to fix this issue, however i have no knowledge about fixing speakers, atleast if i were to know what component is the cause, i could look into fixing it, Thanks guys!
The problem seems to be from POD Control. If you have a way to get one, just make sure you have a problem with it. Or you can try it directly without POD. But it's more complicated.
Hello very nice work, i have my z5500 and i want to make the same mod but i didnt find the same 0.47uF 63v capacitors nowhere, can you pls send me a link with these capacitors or if you propose something different of this type capacitors.Thanks
Cześć, jeśli na starcie systemu dostaniesz ekstremalnie głośny buczenie we wszystkich głośnikach, to jest to z 2 dużych kondensatorów 50v, jeśli dostaniesz delikatny buczenie ze wszystkich głośników tylko podczas słuchania piosenki, to tak pochodzi z małego kondensatora 25v ruclips.net/video/fFZLkstWMhM/видео.html
Chodzi mi o to ze jak włączę głośniki ale nic nie gra to słychać ten transformator jak cały czas po cichu buczy chciałem się dowiedzieć czy można go jakoś wygluszyc żeby nie było go wogole słychać np wata akustyczna
@@bartekkluczynski9146 Jeśli masz na myśli szum transformatora w obudowie subwoofera, nie masz z tym nic wspólnego. Możesz spróbować antyfony, ale byłby to pomysł mało inspirujący. Ten transformator może się przegrzać.
Would love to try this mod but I'm a complete noob when it comes to soldering and buying the parts would be very hard because of where I live. But is there anything else you could do to get the bass a little deeper My brother has the z906 and the bass is actually deep and I can feel it. My z5500 is just boomy. Is there anything i can do to get a deeper sound. Thank you and it was a great mod. Will try in future 👍
For a deeper bass, more changes are needed than I did in the video. But the sequel follows. (Mod 1 Mod 2 Mod 3) Replacing the 2 large capacitors adds to the bass. It is best to replace the 3 capacitors, the 2 large and the medium one.
@@ElektroGamer30 hmm. So I have to try getting hold of these capacitors. What about adding polyfill. Does that help to bring out the lower frequencies?
@@tibby1239 The subwoofer is designed for 30-200 Hz The enclosure is weak for low frequencies. In addition, the system has a subsonic filter that does not allow low frequencies. I did a few tests last month, and the signal the subwoofer receives at 25 hz is awful. Below 30 Hz the signal is destroyed by the subsonic filter. It takes a lot of work to get past this filter ...
@@ElektroGamer30 so neither changing the subwoofer with another 10 inch or even messing about with an external sound card would help sort out the lower frequencies. Because the internal amp has a subsonic filter which is very hard to get past. What a bummer
Merhaba, Kalitesiz olan kondansatörleri değiştirdim. OPAMP'ı kaliteli olanlarla değiştirdim. Logitech Z5500 ile tüm çalma listemi buradan kontrol edin. Sistemin sesini değiştiren 4 Mod var. Hepsini yapabilirseniz harika bir ses elde edersiniz. ruclips.net/p/PLsgyMOzSu2Eq9WmEVhE2aZzsZ22V
@@lkmarslan 26 yaşındayım, adım Private. Size başka herhangi bir bilgi konusunda yardımcı olabilirsem, sorularınız varsa videolarımdan herhangi birine yorum bırakın.
Hi Friend! Very nice video! I have 2 problems at Z5500, maybe you cat't help me or maybe you have an idea... I have a static sound on all speakers when turn on speaker from pod. even signal is conected or not. music sound fine but if i don't play anything that humm is usuportable.. problem 2 : is about subwoofer. if i turn bass maximum and volume 80% without boost, subwoofer have a noisy pop with bass verry disapointed from them... if you can help me i apreciate.. When i have 20vAC on subwoofer pop noise appear.. maybe 23-25 on other song.. ''i tested at free air ''
@@ElektroGamer30 thankx for reply! Ankther prodge amplifier? Or another bridge rectifier? I think problem is from high voltage.. +-38vcc. For bridge And 8 ohm load îs huge voltage. I'm not sure.. Tda7294 are original from z5500. Not changed
@@roniawan6742 ruclips.net/video/jJs0bw-5pt0/видео.html&lc=UgwHAqLAYunTUyzWwcN4AaABAg There was another person with this problem in another video of mine. I don't know exactly if he tried to fix it or not. (Dan Tha Man)
Hey bro. I have a logitech z 55000. One of the bass sound ic blew off during play. I replaced it but it blew off at the moment I turn the main switch on. Tried replacing it four times but same results. Please I need your assistance on how to repair it. We can chat on WhatsApp if that will be fine with you
@@abelnyarko4871 Carefully check everywhere for a short circuit on the board. Check carefully and how you replaced the TDA, you may have damaged a component next to it. Also try to replace the capacitor next to the TDA (C506) Aging of the capacitors can lead to the blowing of the TDA
you are the first person i seen working on electrical, special, to do soldering seating onto floor, done great job. thanks
Along the way I will make a special place for myself for this hobby.
I do it for pleasure, I am not a professional and I do not work every day.
Thank you!
I changed the opamps with the OPA1602. I left everything else untouched at first. The bass got a little deeper and the highs became alive. The overal result was a lot more detailed and "aerial". I bought and used an smd heat gun, made it a lot easier.
Also, I had a problem. After the change I had terrible noises. The problem was the soldering paste, so dont foget to clean it up good at the end.
I'm glad you tried this way and that everything worked perfectly.
Thanks for the advice, I honestly did not have such problems.
Change the 3 capacitors, it's worth the experience.
Hello again! It's been a while since my last comment. I did not left anything untouched in this period. I just finished my last mod. I removed almost anything but the tda7294s.
First of all I replaced the control pod with one I made. Satellites became full range. But they are not "satellites" any more, they are Magnat bookshelf speakers.
Second, I completely removed all opamps and everything around them. Caps, resistors, all of it. I remade the original circuits for the 5 speakers which serve DC protection with high end caps and the opa1612s.
For the subwoofer I made a new circuit, having removed every filter there was. I added gain and crossover frequency controls, like on the diy pod I made. In total a passive 2nd order on the pod and a first order on the sub.
Next, i removed the filters around the TDAs. That include half the 22uf caps, ones that are on the opposite side of the output cable. Soldered the pads together. Removed and replaced the input smd caps, both in size and capacitance. I also removed the 100uf NP cap on the opposite side of the board, it was part of another unwanted filter for the sub btl. I removed much more than I can recall. I also replaced the bootstrap caps with 68uf ones, to support the much lower in frequency bass.
Almost nothing remained the same. The result was to feel the inaudible tones in the "Bass I love you" song. New speakers, new reset crossovers, different gain on the sub on different frequencies. Surely does sound like a professional subwoofer now.
Sub hits down from 3Hz. Speakers took over the mids, they are alive now. Highs are crystal, due to the speaker tweeters. Sub now plays subsonic, and frequency response is adjustable.
It ain't Logitech anymore, it's mine.
PS: We blindly followed Almi's upgrade, and one offset was the 80V cap for the pod, which i still have :D It doesn't have to be 80v, 25 or more can do it.
Wow !! You can say that you have built your own system.
Congratulations for the work done and for this passion.
How can I lower the frequency of the subwoofer without too much investment?
I don't like frequencies over 35 40 Hz at all .. and this logitech only knows above ..
@@ElektroGamer30 Thanks! 2 out of 5 opamps in the subwoofer along with the resistors and capacitors around them are responsible for the signal gain and the crossovers for the sub. You can spot them, around them the capacitors and resistors are named C6xx and R6xx respectively. I tried to replace some of the resistors with different values in order to change the crossovers' cut off frequencies but they are tied with the gain circuit, it became unstable and I got a lot of noise. The best thing you can do is to remove them all, and place two active second order low pass filters (that is what the original circuit has) with cut off frequency and gain of your liking. You have to study the circuits before tho! I placed 3 passive first order filters, and the cut off isn't as steep as I'd want it. But it gets the job done and the walls shaking. Try to add adjustable gain as well, because for a narrower frequency band the signal becomes weaker. All the parts are cheap, the most expensive by far are the opamps we used. You will only need 2 though. Good luck and happy studying!
@@ElektroGamer30 Wima caps are a bit pricey too. I had bought some from Mouser, used them, but when I needed some more I did not want to spend more money and went for some common film caps out of a local store.
@@ElektroGamer30 Come join Z-2300 fans and owners page on facebook. I have uploaded photos there
@@manthos.y Thank you for the advice.
I will join!
I like heat's ink it's so huge heavy duty it should be great job...👌
At that time I had just settled in Germany, so I didn't have quality (toys).
But now I have advanced a little bit, a better unit to glue, greater knowledge, all along the way, no one was born a professional!
Best mod for the old Z5500 system was to add a set of 1" dome tweeters to the front channels (in parallel with included 3kHz crossovers £30 the pair) and add an EQ (15 band) inline before the controller inputs to pull up the deep lows n highs, slightly pull down around 3kHz, run in straight 2.1 stereo mode (center speaker not driven). Awesome for golden era 1995 Drum n Bass ;), great for both loud or quiet listening. If this is to your taste, the cheap n cheerful upgrades really bought the old z5500 system to life!
Thank you for the advice.
Which equalizer do u use?
@@tibby1239 Hi, currently using an old cheap ProSound (Maplin) EQ, 15 12db sliders per channel, now I just tend to set and forget. Not a top end hi-fi setup but enough to shake the lounge when required ;). Experiment with anything that works to give a sound that you like for your style of tunes.
Edit: Forgot to mention, sub location placement, orientation and room shape is very important. I prefer to put the sub woofer in a brick walled corner of the house, facing ~45Deg into the room. Although pretty good, I still get cancellation at varying sub frequencies around what is a 20ft by 20ft 'L' shaped room. Physics can also be a bitch, no matter what setup you have.
Hello Bro I am Brazilian and i have a Logitech Z5500 that has been around for 15 years but the Pod's display doesn't show any image, it stays lit but without description. I even exchanged the display for one bought on Aliexpress, I changed it and the same thing happened, it turns on, it lights up but the description doesn't appear, I returned the Original and I'm using it anyway but I would like to fix it, would you know how to guide me? discover the problem? Could it be a capacitor?
Olá, você precisa fazer algumas verificações.
Primeiro, se você verificar a fonte de alimentação no POD Control, você deverá ter +18v - 18v +8V.
É possível que a fonte de alimentação de 8V seja mais fraca!
@@ElektroGamer30 Obrigado pela resposta eu irei verificar é depois te aviso! 👍
@@ElektroGamer30 Eu testei todas as tensões +18 -18 e 8V e estão todas corretas. E agora o que faço:( ? Eu gosto muito do meu Logitech Z5500 e gostaria muito de estar concertando ele. Quando deixo o POD desligado por um tempo depois de um tempo o display volta a mostras a descrição mas com o tempo ele ligado vai se apagando aos poucos.
@@igobrgameplay Na ponte de controle existem 3 reguladores de tensão, se não me engano, verifique qual tensão você tem neles também.
Teoricamente você deveria ter entre 3/5v
Tente substituir também o grande capacitor dentro do POD Control.
É 16V 1000uf
@@ElektroGamer30 vou testar depois te falo!
Amazing video Sir do you know the info about logi z623
Hello and thank you!
Unfortunately, I do not own such a system and my knowledge about it is very limited.
But with any audio system, if you replace the outdated and low-quality components with high-quality ones, the sound will change considerably!
That's exactly what I did in this video!
I put new capacitors of higher quality than what was put on the system from the factory!
Logitech ömründe böyle işkenceye maruz kalmamıştır.
:(
Very interesting video man, thank you very much!💪💪 Could you make a video, where you compare the sound side by side?
I have no way to compare .. I only have this system that is already modified!
But it is a very big change.
The sound is feeling better, stronger and clearer.
@@ElektroGamer30 Alright I am planning to do the mod aswell, could you post the links of the parts
@@ugurata5366 For components the best source is Ebay.
I left in the description the name of the components and the quantity.
Good luck!
@Umut Çilek sistemi almadan içine ettiğini nasıl biliyorsun peki?
next time use low melt solder to remove the big capacitors just a tip!
Thank you for the tip!
👍👍
Heatgun lmao that thing looks like an ordinary hairdryer. Don't get me wrong I find that great, just recently figured out that the temperature of a hairdryer on highest setting is not actually that far off of a Heatgun on lower settings when you measure right at the exhaust. So cudos for creativity. ;D
Yes, it is a regular hair dryer.
But used up close and at full power (about 1500w) It is able to soften that glue.
For a true Hi-Fi experience out of this system I feel like that the control pod stands as a problem. I had bought a chinese amplifier from ebay using TDA7294 (same on Z-5500) to replace my broken amp from Z-2300 a few years ago. The performance out of this thing was absolutely jaw dropping. No crossovers, full range speakers, bass that goes down to 1Hz for both speakers and sub. Nothing that Z-5500 could ever acchieve out of their design. The difference of course lies within the preamplifier, hence the need to ditch the control pod that does this job for the Z-5500. I have drown the schematic out of the preamplifier and i'm planning to redesign it as a new "control pod" utilizing the same DB-15 connector. Contact me to share the 2-channel preamplifier schematic
And after this change, know that the system has come to life.
It even became much stronger and after the second way in which I modified the control pod, the system is unrecognizable, I intend in time to change all the capacitors with some higher quality ones both in the subwoofer and in the control pod.
I would love to see the schematic! to clarify, have you dont this to the z5500 yet?
The frequency response for the integrated circuit is 20Hz to 20KH, and that is already with a loss of 3db. What do you think the TDA7294 will give you at 1Hz. Further loud low frequencies can potentially damage some speakers, especially ones that are "unloaded" such as bass reflex designs (ported/ducted/passive radiator). Sealed box and acoustic suspension designs are less easily harmed but it can still happen.
And what do you call "full range speakers" ? A lot are already losing 3db at 35Hz. If you have B&W 803 D4 (>20000$), then you can go to 16Hz, but you won't drive those with a TDA7294 ;)
There are reasons why Subs that goes down to 12Hz like I have at home costs >1500$, and if you ever heard that you will see that's something else when playing real low frequency then a 35Hz - 43kHz full range speaker ;)
Which doesn't mean you get amazing results for such a small investment, but claiming basses that goes down to 1Hz, then I'm suspicious.
@@PaulDeMeersman the frequency response is 20Hz to 20kHz for the given schematic by STM. And also if you push a smooth gain at the preamps on the low frequencies you also get a higher response at the lows ;)
I believe you are not stupid, you can search what a full range speaker is if you don't know already. So why ask me? -3 dB for a bookshelf @ 35Hz is pretty good.
About the subwoofers now, I really don't get the prices for a well performing subwoofer. Maybe branding, finishes or exclusivity. I have modified my humble dual Z-5500 subs to play down to any frequency and not that crap >35Hz. I still have that original enclosures with the shallow ports, tuned to 38Hz. Way too high, and I have already designed a new enclosure for both subs tuned to 26Hz. They already rip at 20Hz despite the enclosure, I just cant imagine the result with them.
@@GoodVibesOnly1914 I'm sorry for the late reply! Yes I removed the control pod (to achieve full range signal for the speakers) and replaced it with a head I made, simple enough. I also replaced the preamplifiers inside the subwoofer, with something equally simple with the head. This was done mostly for the subwoofer preamplifier which originally implements the crossovers (35Hz low, 125Hz high) tied with the preamp gain. This means that I removed/replaced capacitors, resistors and op amps. Along the procedure you can throw in some MUSES opamps that the $25000 speakers of the other dude most possibly have, they cost $50-80 each, but I went with the decent OPA1612 from TI. After the rework a total of 6 are needed, 3 for the head and another 3 for the second stage preamp inside the box. Of course I needed to re implement the low pass filters for the subwoofer and instead of active (using opamps) filters I made a 3-stage passive filter. 2 stages on the head and one in the subwoofer. Cut-off frequency of course selectable. The only thing I didn't do is to order a different enclosure with lower tuning frequency (38Hz for the original enclosure). After I completed the mod, I got a used second subwoofer, I soldered a splitter and we are talking about clubbing bass now.. Really sorry for the extra long reply, I would be really glad to guide you if you are interested into the mod. But be aware it is much time consuming and requires hours of soldering B-)
I am getting ready to pick up one of these systems. Great timing for the video. Now, have you done any modding to the Z2300?
I didn't make it on the z2300, it's a bit weak in manufacturing, it's not worth it, I say.
Compared to the z5500 which is a 5.1 system of 1010W and 505W respectively with different functions (DTS 96/24, DTS decoder, Dolby Digital, Dolby Pro Logic II).
Probably a moding on the z2300 would not be too noticeable, I don't know how much the sound could be improved.
Thanks!
@@ElektroGamer30 okay. Good to know. I'll just pop in a better sub on the 2300 and then call it done.
@@abdomination Good luck
It's easier and much cheaper to do on Z2300. It has 5 opamps instead of 11 in Z-5500 and much less capacitors. You can change the final amplifiers too, you will get a boost in wattage. The trick is that the opamps in Z-2300 have different dimensions than those in the Z-5500. Z-2300 uses JRC4565, check the form factor and get something high end in that size.
Hi, i assume that the 18v connection for the control pod is the WA88? If not which one should have the 18v? I changed a 50v capacitor which was overdate but that didnt fix my issue. Im missing the 18v connection on the preamp board( it does have the 8v). The voltage regulator gets an 18v input - output 7.8v.
In POD Control you must have +18V on the brown wire with white and -18V on the black wire with white and +8V on the red wire with white.
You can watch all my videos in the logitech Z5500 playlist, there you will find a lot of videos, one useful one is (Logitech Z5500 POD CONTROL power supply) which shows the connections for the POD Control power supply without a subwoofer!
WA10 +8V
WA3 -18V
WA1 +19V
ruclips.net/p/PLsgyMOzSu2Eq9WmEVhE2aZzsZ22VpJyPS
@@ElektroGamer30 i have seen all your videos. That isnt the issue. The issue is on the mainboard. There is no 18v or -18v on the wa90 connection of the mainboard. While the voltage regulator does get 18v input from the capacitor. I dont know where to find the problem. The pod is not the problem
@@hamzaboulmika4487
Then you have problems with 78M18A or 79M18A.
You must have -18v and -36V on one pin, and +36v and +18v on the other regulator.
Or maybe the transformer does not output current on both phases.
@@ElektroGamer30 exactly, what i was thinking after my diagnose. The 2 chips dont receive any current. I will take a look at the chips.
I think i grilled the transformer accidently.. i dont receive the 35v anymore in the 50v capacitors. So i have to fix the transformer first. And then head back to the chips.
Thanks for the help and ill come back for you with info
@@hamzaboulmika4487 Attention to the transformer, it is not a very high-quality one!
If you find a cheaper one on ebay, you better replace it!
around $10 I saw that a used one costs you!
I'm glad I could help you, keep up the good work and let me know how your repair is progressing!
Great video ... thanks for posting it. Do you have the values of the capacitor c-24 c-27?
Thanks!
I'm glad I can help people with my posts.
Unfortunately, I do not know the values of these capacitors, and their verification is currently impossible.
Just finished the mod with the 2 Elna cap, and doubling the sub wire gauge. Very very hard to say if there's a difference. I make sure to have real elna. Anyway, it works, i did some test before and after with song Almaa - dreams, it got quick heavy bass note, and around the same dB level from my receiver, sub fade out before all my surround speaker just as before. At the end, can't be worst, and I have should check the max A draw before and after, forgot about it.
I'm glad you managed to do it this way.
For me it was a pretty big difference after changing the 2 big capacitors, and the 25v one for the control pod!
Have you noticed any difference? And do you think it was worth it?
@@ugurata5366 It's a big difference, I say.
Especially for me now that I've done the control pod mode.
@@ElektroGamer30 what is the pod mode?
@@z33hayden23 POD Control MOD :
ruclips.net/video/3i0sI4N84Bg/видео.html
Hello brother, greetings. I currently have problems with resistors r21 and r22, I changed them for 27 Ohm resistors and R22 burned again. can you help me thanks!!!
Hello, you need to check the resistance routes!
It is possible that a capacitor (or several capacitors) is short-circuited or devalued!
I don't have the system disassembled to be able to see and measure to say exactly what the problem is or where it comes from!
With a multimeter you can check the circuit route!
The resistant needles, if I'm not mistaken, take care of the standby part of the amplifiers.
Also check the transistors on the preamplifier board, it may be a defective one!
(Pay attention to the PID of the POD Control and the subwoofer, if they are not identical they can cause damage to the motherboard or even the complete damage of the POD Control)
)
2: Ön uydulardan gelen ses düşük. Bunu nasıl çözebilirim?
Can jccon capacitor be used instead of elsa?
Kullandığım kapasitörler daha kaliteli, diğer firmaların iyi olup olmadığına ne diyeceğimi bilmiyorum!
Ön hoparlörlerdeki ses düşük çünkü 5.1 ses sistemini kullandığınızda surround ses seviyesini maksimuma ayarlıyorsunuz ve bu nedenle ön hoparlörlerin sesi daha yavaşmış gibi görünüyor!
Çevre sesi seviyesini %50'ye ayarlarsanız sesin tüm hoparlörler için eşit derecede güçlü olduğunu fark edeceksiniz!
Bu aynı zamanda merkezi hoparlör için de geçerlidir!
Out of all the modifications, which would you say had the most effect? (In detail)
In my opinion, replacing the large capacitors had a big impact on the subwoofer.
But all changes have an impact on the sound.
Each modification brings a small improvement, and all the modifications together result in a much more qualitative and detailed sound!
I've had my Z5500 for over 10 years it's it's been absolutely awesome until a few weeks ago. It started getting scratchy sound and cutting in and out then one day the sound just stopped completely. The control unit seems to be working perfect. All the functions work with the remote control and when I change the input source the sub makes a little rumble like it always has but no sound at all now when I play anything. I took the control unit apart to check solder joints and reflowed a few that looked questionable plus cleaned up the PCB and put it back together but no change, still no sound from any of the input sources. I took the sub apart and checked that over and it looked to be in pristine condition. No bad looking solder joints and no swollen or leaking caps. It looked like it just rolled off the assembly line. I've been searching the web trying to find a way to fix this but to no avail. I'd really love to get this back in working order. I can't find any schematics for this unit to figure out where the problem might lie. Any suggestions that you might have as to why I have no sound when everything appears to be working normally would be greatly appreciated if you have any. Thanks. I'm holding off on buying the Z-906 until I've exhausted all avenues of fixing this. Why oh why can't the Z906 have an awesome subwoofer too.
Also try the system sound test.
On the remote control you have an up button in the right corner for the sound test.
Turn up the volume by 3 to 4 lines, press the button and wait for each speaker to make a noise while the display shows which speaker is being tested, so you can see if the problem is from the control pod or the subwoofer housing.
However, I think the problem is from the control pod, do not pass the signal.
@@ElektroGamer30 The sound test doesn't produce any sound either. The test button is on the top left on my remote. I've been contemplating buying a used control pod on e-Bay but don't want to waste $150 if that isn't the problem. I think I bought my system in 2006 or 2007, can't remember for sure. Mine has the speaker wire clips and not the plugs so does that make a difference or will any working pod work with any system regardless of which revision it is?
@@DrD6452 So more than likely the control bridge is defective.
Not every revision works.
You need one that is as close as possible to the one you have.
I will make a video on how you can modify the subwoofer box and use it without a control pod.
99% this is due to a burned resistor on the plate amp. I've done 100's of repairs on these.
Hello, do you have any updates? I got incoming for repair a system that had the mute line busted an all ICs except center, it has a dedicated line. Your standby line may suffer the same problem, and it is shared along all ICs. Also do check the voltage regulators that are exact in the center, and their respective 36 ohm resistors. They feed all the control signals and opamps.
Siemano. Może poradzisz gdzie szukać? Głośniki mam od nowości i po 10 latach ostatnio zaczęły się wyłączać jakby się przegrzaly (mimo że nic nie grało) i włączać po kilku minutach na nowo - to było sporadycznie. Aż w tym tygodniu grały, potem wyłączyłem kompa i już następnego dnia po podaniu zasilania nie wstają- panel wyświetla linie bez podświetlenia, sub słychac że zasilanie na transformatorze ma. Jeszcze się nie zabierałem za pomierzenie wstępnych napięć, ale raczej celuje tutaj w uszkodzenie panelu. Jeszcze jedno, ampa pewnie z tych modów w PL nie dostanę za normalną kasę? Co z resztą? Do panelu ladowales te same ampy co do suba? Dzieki z góry
Cześć. Przepraszam, ale nie rozumiem wszystkiego, co jest w Twoim tekście.
Jeśli pokazuje tylko kreski na wyświetlaczu, to problemem jest mały kondensator 25V wewnątrz subwoofera.
Przepraszamy za spóźnioną odpowiedź, ale nie otrzymałem powiadomienia!
ruclips.net/video/jJs0bw-5pt0/видео.html
I've opened mine to fix the pulsating buzzing coming from subwoofer but didn't find anythin obvious to replace. I replaced few suspicious capacitors but that didn't help. I throw them away.
You don't have to give up so easily.
Maybe your problem comes from the source that gives the sign.
Try to give (TEST) on the remote control.
See if and then you get those pulses in the subwoofer.
There may be a problem with the Pod control.
Here is a link to a video I made to solve the noise from all the speakers.
ruclips.net/video/fFZLkstWMhM/видео.html
@@ElektroGamer30 thanks, that's a neat tricke with capacitor and cables, I'm gonna steal it :)
Hi, Is it still worth buying this set of speakers at the moment ?
Hi, I for one say it's worth it, but it shouldn't exceed 100 euros.
My systems look more than good (I modified a POD to communicate with two subwoofers) together they cost about 140 - 150 euros.
They are capable of Dolby and DTS, have a digital port and 4 analog ports.
I currently use both systems on a Philips TV and I am extremely satisfied with them.
Logitech Z5500 Mod x 2 Subwoofer
ruclips.net/video/IwjKWUaQo5c/видео.html
hi, did axial caps changed something in sound signature? acording to RamaChandra it gives nearly nothing, but last year he wrote addition to mod 3, which changes a little by using it as bridge with another.
In most cases there is no big difference.
If you do the complete mode 3 there is quite a big difference, especially if you replace the speakers too!
@@ElektroGamer30 do you think that Yamaha ns p41 will be good upgrade ? For me , most importent is audio clarity not pure power
@@el3ndiill These speakers are much better quality than those from logitech!
In order for it to be a major change, you have to complete mode 3!
Replacing the opamp in the POD and in the subwoofer makes a difference, you can hear more details in the song!
Hello i make the upgrade and the perfomance of the subwoofer just droped a little, is that normal?
Hi, there is no way to reduce the performance of the subwoofer.
Did you do exactly the same as in the video?
Maybe you got fake capacitors.
There are many Chinese capacitors under the name of famous companies.
What exactly have you changed in your system?
@@ElektroGamer30 i cant upload the list from my ebay for seeing what im getting buy but yes its exactly the same capacitors and opamps with yours and i notice a little drop perfomance in the subwwofer only that.
@@2salonika I don't know what to say, I didn't see this decrease in performance. And there were several people who made that change, and no one said such a problem.
I LOVE these speakers! Mine started making a very loud hum when hooked up through optical cable. Any idea where I should look for the problem? And is this video just for a mod? Or is it repairing a problem? Thanks in advance!
@ Thanks. I'll check those out before tearing it open.
@@mooseff Exactly with the cable I also had a problem.
I changed it and everything worked!
Wow i wish i had this many subs XD idrc and cool vid
Salut! As vrea sa adaug un potentiometru la sistemul meu antic (19 ani) z680 asemanator cu z5500 din care sa reglez volumul bass-ului/sub-ului mai jos decat acel minim 0.5 din consola. Unde ai lega acel potentiometru la sistemul z5500? Multumesc!
Salut, legi pe intrarea de la subwoofer un potentiometru de 10k!
@@ElektroGamer30 unde, pe placa sau direct din firele care vin de la difuzorul de bass? :)
@@tarolaification Pe placa de amplificare, unde vin virele din POD control! Cauti firele ce au semnal de bass, si legi pe ele un potentiometru!
Stiu ca la acest sistem a fost o problema cu bass ul, exect ca la X530 tot de la logitec, dar la acela am facut eu un video cum sa remediezi problema!
Dar pentru z680 nu stiu exact ce poti sa faci!
Doar daca il folosesti la pc sa dai din softwarul de sunet bassul mai jos!
@@ElektroGamer30 multumesc mult! Nu este o problema la sistem doar ca am mai imbatranit intre timp.. :) era acum cativa ani tutorial sa poti regla volumul din potentiometru intre 0.1-0.5 (ca exemplu) dar a imbatranit si el si a fost sters. La 0.5 liniute bass-ul in filme e prea mult ...acum :)
Il folosesc pe optic cu un tv box android...fara root doar din potentiometru pot regla.
@@tarolaification Se poate modifica in pod sau pe placa din subwoofer, legata o rezistenta in paralel cu cea care este deja pe intrarea de la subwoofer!
Dar nu am sistemul in fata pentru a putea spune cu exactitate unde trebuie pusa!
Trebuie exact ca in acest videoclip facut de mine!
ruclips.net/video/DCDA5lMWLG4/видео.html
Hello , I've got Logitech Z-5500 speakers , today after i back from work and start computer i see that Display of speakers shows Dots or looks like bricks. Do I have to change capacitors, please? If I turn it on(Blue light) after 1 min that automatically turn off (red light). Thx.
Hello. The small 24V 4700uf capacitor must be replaced
@@ElektroGamer30 Will do it so. Thank you very much for quick answer: Have a nice day :-)
@@petervalasek1232 Dearfully! Thanks also.
@@ElektroGamer30 Hello. I replaced capacitor, but after 10min did display same thing again 😞
@@petervalasek1232 What capacitor did you put in place of the old one?
How did the replacement go? if it is not fixed well to the base plate, it loosens and makes a cold contact!
Was it well tinned?
If you replaced the capacitor and it worked, then the problem is still there!
I need more details about what you did to be able to help you!
I get burned, as I use only the bass to amplify without the driver
Sir! for how long did you guaranteed about what you have done for the system😂 I don't think its still service to you im a right😢😂
Hello, the system is my personal one, I made these changes just for myself, but seeing the impact it has on the sound, I thought I'd share it with you for free on RUclips!
And I want to mention that the system still works perfectly with these modifications, I even modified an identical subwoofer, now I have 2 subwoofers connected to a single POD Control!
It has been working perfectly for 4 years!
I buy this sub and put my new board for tweter mid and sub sound like jbl🤣
Hello, and is there a difference in sound?
I totally changed both systems from logitech and the sound is completely different from an original system without modifications!
ruclips.net/video/tZlFfD_XHKs/видео.html
JBL is nothing too much over price bass booster system fooled people but logitech did amazing system no over price👌👍🏻and I know majority people fall in love with logitech me too hahaha.....😂
Bro can you please tell me what is the mosfet chip name/number?
Do you mean the one stuck on the PCB?
78M18A!
And the one next to TDA caught on cooling is: LM217T
@@ElektroGamer30 ok thanks
🔥🔥🔥
Hey bro, it's okay! Man, does this procedure that you did have any improvement in harmonic distortion or any improvement in audio fidelity? If yes how much is. You really had a substantial gain.
And with this change, can you upgrade the subwoofer?
Yes, it really does improve the sound.
there are quite large differences.
You can try and you will see!
Hi got mine in the closet for a wile, stopped, working, is there a weak point i should check / measure first that is a common problem on the Z5500?
ruclips.net/video/jJs0bw-5pt0/видео.html
Here is a video made by me, what to do before the system fails.
I am not good with terms in English, but next time when you unmelt something from the motherboard use an aspirin. It will clean and degrease the melting material.
Sa sti ca pe vremuri asta am folosit.:))
Dar pasta decapanta face o treaba mult mai buna.
Multumesc!
Pasta decapanta nu e indicat sa o folosesti pe placa, e risc de scurtcircuit. Cel mai bun din cate stiu este sacazul, dar nu stiu daca se mai gaseste asa ceva. Dar daca pana acum ai folosit pasta si nu ai avut probleme, poti folosi pasta.
Numai bine.👍
@@Aditz90 Multumesc de pont.
Sincer nu am lucrat cu sacaz... Cu pasta asta am facut treaba buna pana acum.
Whats is micca sheets? where can I buy this???
It is a film that transfers the heat, but protects it in contact with the metal part of the coolers.
Do not touch (electrical contact) the metal surface with the back of the mosfets!
It can be bought from several sites. Ebay for example!
@@ElektroGamer30 thanks 😊😊😊bro
@@Gordon041 Dearfully!
Don't know if you tried it, but was your Elnas rolling evenly when you rolled them over the table? And how can you seperate the real ones with fake ones, you got an idea? Just got em in and am a bit suspicious..
Honestly, I was suspicious when I ordered these capacitors.
But on receipt I measured them with a multimeter that has the function of measuring UF, and they have exactly 10000UF.
I think that's the only way to find out if they're fake or not.
I honestly didn't try to roll them.
What I read on the internet someone said was different on the cover .. what exactly I don't know ...
The only way to know for sure is to buy them over Mouser or Digikey
Opa 1602 vs 1612? Difference?
I don't know exactly the differences between the two OPAMPs, I only know that 1612 is more praised in the AUDIO field.
@@ElektroGamer30 what is the change that gives more bass power? Thanks
@@rammstein69 After replacing the two large capacitors, there is an improvement in the bass.
Don't think that it sounds 3-4 times louder, but there is a difference!
@
ElektroGamer
Is it worth to change the op amps ,i mean as sound quality ? i have in mind to do this but i want to change them with opa1656 x10 or OPA1678IDR
Replace the 3 capacitors together with the opamp.
the sound will be more pleasant and louder!
Good luck!
@@ElektroGamer30 Thanks 😊
@@ElektroGamer30 Should i replace the capacitors with higher quality ones or different values?
@@smamas114 2 x Elna for Audio 63V/80V 10000UF
1 x Nichicon 80V 4700UF
Hello i have a question about the capacitors, does the caps have a polarity, im speak for the 2 elnas ,1 nichicon and the 5 axial film caps
and my other question is for installation of the opamps. its about the polarity of the opamp.. I must install it with a specific way? A photo will be help me a lot
Than you!!!
Hi, yes, polarity matters in both capacitors and opamps.
I don't have a picture but it can be seen very clearly in the video.
On the capacitors you have a gray side. It looks like it is - and the other side is +
At opamp it matters to position it exactly like the old one, with the notation up.
@@ElektroGamer30 and what about the axial film capacitors? does they have polarity?
@@2salonika Yes, the axial ones do too.
The bottom with the black line around it,
That part is -.
And the top is +
Minute 1:55 in video
@@ElektroGamer30 Thanks my friend you re very helpfull!!!
@@2salonika With pleasure!
Hello, I have a little question to you. Where you buy your capacitors ? I try to find this components on the internet, but I can't find this 0.47uF 63V. Rest of capacitors (80V 4700uF and 63V 10000uF) is available on aliexpress, but 0.47uF 63V is very difficult to find.
Everything I bought was from ebay.
I found a set of 5 pieces and I paid about 10 euros with transport.
Try it on (www.digikey.com/) 150474J100DC
@@ElektroGamer30 Oh, thank you so much for your answer. I try order components from this link what you send. Thanks again :)
Hey, did u buy the capacitors from aliexpress. If yes could u send me a link to the sellers page. Theres a lot of stuff on aliexpress and dont know if they're genuine so would appreciate ur help. Thanks
vou fazer tratamento acusticio na minha logitech z5500 tambem
Terminei de modificar os dois sistemas que possuo e o som está incrível, seguirá um vídeo com todas as modificações que fiz!
Is this Almi's z5500 mod on the head fi forum?
Yes!
@@ElektroGamer30 Álmi is a well talented Hungarian genius for sure! :)
🗣️I want to remove the sub cut,then turn back,thanks 😍😍
Ok! :D
Hello, How can I convert my 230V Z500 into a 110V? I want to eliminate my external power transformer
Hi, I don't know how you could do that.
Maybe you are just looking for a thyroid transformer from a z5500 for USA.
and replace it.
I have no other idea.
Those 3 big caps are for the sub? Right now I'm using the z5500 sub on a complete 7.1 home theater with onkyo amp. For movies, the sub is perfect, deep and not too loud. But when I listen music and pump the volume at higher level, the sub feels weak, like if it doesnt get enough power. Im wondering if this mod can help.
I did not understand exactly how the z5500 is connected to another 7.1 system ...
But if the logitech z5500 system is itself, the controller + amplifier in the functional subwoofer. YES this way will help.
The bass helps the most by replacing the 2 big capacitors!
After replacing them, the bass becomes very strong and deep!
@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you. Onkyo sub out is RCA. So I use RCA from Onkyo to 3.5mm Z5500 green jack. I do not use the Z5500 speaker, only sub. The z5500 pod only control sub volume.
Has anyone in asia tried this mod. I dont know where to purchase the 3 capacitors and opAmps. Dont know if aliexpress sell genuine stuff. Thanks
The capacitors were bought on ebay.The opamp was bought on Aliexpress!
@@ElektroGamer30 thanks for the reply. Shall i buy the capacitors from aliexpress too. Its the only option i have to be honest.
Hello! Can you tell me if there is a diference between a logitech z5500 subwoofer with rca connectors for satelites and one with push/pull system?
Hello.
The system with RCA connectors is part of the first generation.
If I'm not mistaken, it was launched in 2004/5, and after 2007/8 it was improved and they removed RCA connectors + They brought new improvements!
@@ElektroGamer30 But the comand console is compatible with the next model? Can i use the old console with the new subwoofer? I don't know the electric scheme of both and i have fear that i will blow anything.
@@muitza86
Theoretically, it won't start.
I don't think anything is burning, the power wires are reversed if I'm not mistaken.
What PID does the old console have and what PID does the new one have?
(Writes on the back of the console down on the metal stand on a small label.)
@@muitza86 If you have both consoles, you can measure the wires to see if they have the same position in the VGA socket.
@@ElektroGamer30 The new subwoofer have R 108 and the old have 111863 - 0436R
I forced to change the 5 OPA1612 AID to work perfectly?
After the change, I had problems.
All due to imperfect welds.
Now I use professional tools, I have a video with them on my channel.
After their change, and the correct welding, everything works until today, perfectly without problems.
And I listen all the time with the volume over half.
The sound is pleasantly changed after their replacement, both in the subwoofer box and in the control bridge (only those on the digital input, because I use the system on a smart TV with Dolby Atmos functions)
@@ElektroGamer30 I understand , because I think it is a very delicate and professional job . for this reason I want to know if I need to actually change the OPA1612AID to work, that is, just change the capacitors 5 x 0.47UF 63V Axial Film Capacitors
2 x Elna for Audio 63V 10000UF
1 x Nichicon 80V 4700UF
Do you think it will work?
@@LucasWVigas You can change them one at a time and test them after each change.
To be sure where the problem is coming from (if something didn't work well)
Only after you change everything, you can realize the change that takes place in the sound.
I didn't just test with changed opamps or just capacitors,
to see what sound differences there are. I tested it briefly just to see that everything was going well.
Like I said, I ran into the problem when I changed the opamp.
@@ElektroGamer30 ok, thank you very much for your willingness to answer !
I have a z5500 and no sound is outputed from speakers but I hear sound when doing the test with the remote. could somebody help me with the solution to my problem?
you have no sound either through 3.5 jack cable or digital cable?
@@ElektroGamer30 no sound at all. I connect to an external sound card on my computer and there is no sound and I tried playing music through the auxiliary port and I still get no sound output but if I connect my headphone sound is present in headphone. I have no clue what to do. so far all the components in the control pod looks good.
@@georgenicholas2867 There may be a problem in the control pod, you can try with another control pod to be sure that this is the problem.
@@ElektroGamer30 unfortunately I have no access to another pod. have you ever used the bypass cable?
Hi i have a problem with my control pod it gets 5V on to the sub output pin from the vga connector grey wire can some one help me or at least tell me if its normal? It does that even when the console is off with to inputs connected to it at all the grey wire is completely disconnectec from the amplifier board its just the console defective i think
Salut.
Podul nu se aprinde sau se aprinde si clipește ecranul?
The pod works just like normal but on the subwoofer output pin it gives 5.6V DC even when it is turned off
If you still have your logitech Z5500 please check if its the same on you it is the second pin right to left the first rail of pins top to bottom
@@constantinjitariu1439 Daca functioneaza perfect, nu are rost sa iti bati capul cu el.
Nu am timpul necesar sa il demontez, sambata primesc un pod defect si atunci o sa verific.
@@ElektroGamer30Thanks for help but i found one op amp almost shorted and it was puttin the 5V out i replaced it and it works i also bypassed de low pass and the subsonic filter
Why exactly do you replace all the capacitors? Are they sooo bad? And is that really worth it considering that the rest of the board aren't really high end components either?
Serious question. I have no idea how capacitor quality influences sound I'm just here because either my AMP or the Controll unit of my z5500 is dead and i got this recommended and found it interesting.
This system had a problem with the 3 capacitors.
Due to the vibrations due to the subwoofer, these 3 capacitors came to detach from the board, and then needles (cold soldering) appeared at the contact points of the capacitors.
The 2 large capacitors are filtering, their replacement brought an extra bass.
And the other 25v capacitor deals with the power supply of the control pod, if it is detached, the control pod does not receive power.
Maybe that's the problem with your system.
@@ElektroGamer30 thx for the tip but i already checked, that one sits rock solid in place, in fact all PCBs ,(in the subwoofer as well as in the pod) seem to be completely fine (at least visually) nothing is loose, no burn marks no popped condensators. I'm actually pretty much out of ideas except for replacing the whole thing and at least desoldering the bass speaker to add it to the other system (at least that would give me somenkind of upgrade ;D)
Still kinda sucks since I don't really need any extra bass right now, I'm in a small apartment with relatively thin walls and i already almost couldn't really use any bass because you immediately hear it in the surrounding Appartments.
@@kayburcky7146 The power supplies must be checked, from 220v as well as from the transformer to the motherboard.
There is more work to be done to find out the cause of the problem.
@@ElektroGamer30 well it's quiet possible that I'm just too stupid to bridge a blown fuse with a screwdriver, i just measured the fuse with a multimeter and it seems to be blown. Could this whole problem be that trivial??? I literally put a screwdriver in the hole and tried to touch both (what looked like separate) contacts.... I'll try wrapping the fuse in some Aluminium foil next and if that still doesn't work I'll measure wether the fuse socket might be broken (insert the aluminum wrapped fuse and measure the contacts on the other side with the multimeter) this whole case gets weirder and weirder by the minute 😅
The thing I have suspected as a cause pretty much immediately was that I had the system connected to a master-slave power strip (because i hate having to pull plugs plugs every time to not have the room lit up like a Christmas tree from every damn standby led in all my devices) and plugged my notebooks thunderbolt dock in the master outlet. And one night when i just set the notebook to hibernate (usually low enough power draw to fall below the power strips threshold for the master outlet so the slaves get cut from power) the strip started rapidly switching on and of and i've been told amps really don't like this.
Thanks a ton btw. For all the helpful tips. If you have any suggestions what i could measure in the PSU parts to look for blown stuff f.ex. i have a multimeter, i've already checked graphics cards for shorts (using resistance measurements), but I'm hella frightened by PSUs since the can still be live weeks after being unplugged because of the big condensators, and i've already fried more electronics than I'd like to admit because i tried to measure something and accidentally shorted something because i touched the wrong pins with the thing still being live (tried to figure out the pinout of a proprietary fan connector which ended up frying some transistor on the board....)
Would help me a ton, but its totally fine if you don't want. I know how annoying it can be to be permanently asked to solve someone's electronic problems.
@@kayburcky7146 If the fuse is blown, it must be replaced with an identical one.
It's not annoying to help with advice, but it's complicated without me having the system in front of me and making the necessary measurements.
I can only guess what the problem may be.
The capacitors remain charged for a long time, pay close attention to them.
If you are not skilled enough, my advice is not to get more involved in repairing the system.
After replacing the fuse, it must be checked if 220v reaches the thyroid transformer, and if it in turn transmits the necessary current to the motherboard.
A common problem was with the connection cable from the control pod to the subwoofer (broken wires inside the cable)
They must be measured with a multimeter.
salut! eu am un bazait care se aude din spatele subwooferului(amplificator cred) indiferent daca e oprit sau pornit. Ai vreo idee ce poate fi? am bazaitul de vreo 4 ani ,dar nu i-am dat importanta
Salut.Este ceva normal. intr-un fel sau altul. Este vorba de transformatorul toroidal. La mine apare cand sunt fluctuatii de curent, in rest este silentios.
O rezolvare sincer nu am pentru aceasta "problema".
Awesome! I have a Problem My front right channel Makes some noices/ scratches. Any ideas whats this Problem cause? Thanks
Thank you.
I had problems with the center channel when I replaced the op amplifier. It had a very weak sound even at full volume. And there were some rustles.
What kind of sounds do you hear? Sound Pop.
Or rustling?
If noise is present and the system is muted, there may be a problem with the amplifier board in the subwoofer.
@@ElektroGamer30 Ive tested it with new optical cable, changed satellites. It is a rustling when i stop playing something. It is also in Test mode in the background at the right speaker channel. If i muted at the System its silent. Maybe i look for a new subwoofer..
@@MrSonnyjack If you press the mute button and that noise is no longer heard, there may be a problem with the control pod.
Right now I got a control pod with this problem, it has a noise in all the speakers..
When the system receives a signal from the digital or analog port, it has a noise on all the speakers.
If it does not receive a signal, that noise is not heard, or if the mute button is pressed.
@@ElektroGamer30 thanks for the fast response. Yes if i press mute at the remote all sound and also the rustling is gone and i also think that only if it has a signal then also the noise comes in. Is it possible to repair the control panel? Maybe the noise comes from the fuse? Tomorrow i will change it because they look really milky maybe thats also the reason..
@@MrSonnyjack Looks like you have the same problem as me. It's just that in my case it manifests itself in all speakers.
I managed to control only a little in the control pod.
I found some burnt resistors.
I don't have a functional one to follow. And I don't even have time to check everything.
This is the z906 amplifier, if you give me some advice and explain any changes I need to make I could upgrade my amplifier. file:///D:/Cartelle/Immagini/WhatsApp%20Image%202021-03-18%20at%2012.19.52.jpeg
I do not know the Z906 enough about to pictures to encourage you to do this or that.
As far as I can see, all the covers are glued with a black glue to the mainboard.
It's a bit of a hassle to change something on this system.
But any capacitor can be replaced with a much better one.
This is nothing new!
I confidently recommend capacitors:
Elna Silmic II, Cerafine, Tonerex or Nichicon.
Hi bro, I love the video very much, so I want to do that upgrade like you, but I have a problem with Z5500 the fuse blow and I change it, but the same thing happens, so I open the box and one of the amp TDA7294 was burnt so I change it, and the same thing happens fuse blow, so can you help, please.
Hello.
When you changed the fuse, did the system turn on for a few minutes or did you press the button on the back of the subwoofer and then the fuse blew?
Anyone with these speakers wanna tell me what this problem could be: So recently my z5500s have been playing sound for a minute, then just randomly cutting off, the speakers are still on (the pod still has the lights on and displays) but no sound is being outputted. Turning it off and then back on does fix the issue for like a second, then the sound just cuts off again. I've tried the common debugging, tried a new PC, tried new cables, etc. I want to fix this issue, however i have no knowledge about fixing speakers, atleast if i were to know what component is the cause, i could look into fixing it, Thanks guys!
The problem seems to be from POD Control.
If you have a way to get one, just make sure you have a problem with it.
Or you can try it directly without POD.
But it's more complicated.
Hello very nice work, i have my z5500 and i want to make the same mod but i didnt find the same 0.47uF 63v capacitors nowhere, can you pls send me a link with these capacitors or if you propose something different of this type capacitors.Thanks
www.ebay.de/itm/231110141533?epid=1765385847&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item35cf3ce65d:g:q6YAAOSwnK9ZOPTP&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSRAQR8FABHjfpFoyRlXhWmZImT7yayRSxAKqc%252B5N57koV5jsJPWxJBe1B6aCp3HFMA7%252FtOTbF34URNjoKDy%252FHaFqdnTlkNqe853OY%252BsX0krJlmPFhYhGLDgs0bk37rd224mJqnrJTfShZ23gbe3rGRNvfmXvlNtlDmTbP75CEMvHQn2SexBAiMQg%252BJVG6M0v%252FDLoJQ%252FIUskYVNJCT%252FPQLu3yaAWhoBgt6JcU%252FHtDy%252FEhmb19q%252FoAA91J6owe3NamaKdjTiviZqaNJCPwLPVP69U0nr4G7KmsyF9jxaV%252BaHhnofNoZ54%252FjmZkuv61XKI5bX9GHvr9Pl7IDGOqLz9VnauV6g1awI7x93dJ6lV2raeUEXsmhiUdXJO3NjOgHOYPzxdGkJb7RPTaJmoBjm9QULYaUG2x6R6hWot9YBtlqbT1Wxf%252Fxfe9ltcyqldexCoIhrhFzZQazSGFVdzklSorG3%252FBFZp0yieRjSlB7uFumsIuX76Q7jSrnBTOiBwVYNwvOiPCehc8QucRImmASO4twZN37DGFY9L%252BSFT7Lry4ZXUue7TJUGexFmQNz6MzHvxmIZ6HL1NMGqgBlI6mi%252B%252BJtQwNSpVLi2RW2mqB3plQ%252FUgOEnjzbEX28%252ByrAgrEMnn7Arb9fYod5RpvMPIPXbzskT4aR44AsYUdE0LvVo2WI1aOpcHYWz6H9ccicaLU1MC%252FpkOyluExVelV8YYvn9n0Lq7Q5Ryb%252FjhbfaspLNFO9C3IEeS1mbvczHoCH5nyh3wWGgrPaCVSU6GOlZ8%252FQiRbTKKuwjjz0IK66ChnvCjybGrn5DhYV85zIWxhxQUu8G1gU%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMmsi84NZf
I ordered from ebay
@@ElektroGamer30 i saw these and i notice that the dclination its 20%. your capacitors its only 5% its the same type except that spec. is this ok?
@@2salonika It's ok
here from tw man
Thx!
Cześć a możesz mi powiedzieć jaka jest przyczyna buczenia tych głośników
Cześć, jeśli na starcie systemu dostaniesz ekstremalnie głośny buczenie we wszystkich głośnikach, to jest to z 2 dużych kondensatorów 50v, jeśli dostaniesz delikatny buczenie ze wszystkich głośników tylko podczas słuchania piosenki, to tak pochodzi z małego kondensatora 25v
ruclips.net/video/fFZLkstWMhM/видео.html
Czy można je jakoś wygłuszyć żeby nie buczały nie buczały
Nie rozumiem pytania
Chodzi mi o to ze jak włączę głośniki ale nic nie gra to słychać ten transformator jak cały czas po cichu buczy chciałem się dowiedzieć czy można go jakoś wygluszyc żeby nie było go wogole słychać np wata akustyczna
@@bartekkluczynski9146 Jeśli masz na myśli szum transformatora w obudowie subwoofera, nie masz z tym nic wspólnego.
Możesz spróbować antyfony, ale byłby to pomysł mało inspirujący.
Ten transformator może się przegrzać.
Would love to try this mod but I'm a complete noob when it comes to soldering and buying the parts would be very hard because of where I live. But is there anything else you could do to get the bass a little deeper
My brother has the z906 and the bass is actually deep and I can feel it. My z5500 is just boomy. Is there anything i can do to get a deeper sound. Thank you and it was a great mod. Will try in future 👍
For a deeper bass, more changes are needed than I did in the video.
But the sequel follows. (Mod 1 Mod 2 Mod 3)
Replacing the 2 large capacitors adds to the bass.
It is best to replace the 3 capacitors, the 2 large and the medium one.
@@ElektroGamer30 hmm. So I have to try getting hold of these capacitors. What about adding polyfill. Does that help to bring out the lower frequencies?
@@tibby1239 The subwoofer is designed for 30-200 Hz
The enclosure is weak for low frequencies.
In addition, the system has a subsonic filter that does not allow low frequencies.
I did a few tests last month, and the signal the subwoofer receives at 25 hz is awful.
Below 30 Hz the signal is destroyed by the subsonic filter.
It takes a lot of work to get past this filter ...
@@ElektroGamer30 so neither changing the subwoofer with another 10 inch or even messing about with an external sound card would help sort out the lower frequencies. Because the internal amp has a subsonic filter which is very hard to get past. What a bummer
Can you tell me in Turkish what you did?
Merhaba,
Kalitesiz olan kondansatörleri değiştirdim.
OPAMP'ı kaliteli olanlarla değiştirdim.
Logitech Z5500 ile tüm çalma listemi buradan kontrol edin.
Sistemin sesini değiştiren 4 Mod var.
Hepsini yapabilirseniz harika bir ses elde edersiniz.
ruclips.net/p/PLsgyMOzSu2Eq9WmEVhE2aZzsZ22V
teşekkürler @@ElektroGamer30
@@lkmarslan 👏
adın ne kaç yaşındasın@@ElektroGamer30
@@lkmarslan 26 yaşındayım, adım Private.
Size başka herhangi bir bilgi konusunda yardımcı olabilirsem, sorularınız varsa videolarımdan herhangi birine yorum bırakın.
Hi Friend! Very nice video!
I have 2 problems at Z5500, maybe you cat't help me or maybe you have an idea...
I have a static sound on all speakers when turn on speaker from pod. even signal is conected or not. music sound fine but if i don't play anything that humm is usuportable..
problem 2 : is about subwoofer. if i turn bass maximum and volume 80% without boost, subwoofer have a noisy pop with bass verry disapointed from them... if you can help me i apreciate.. When i have 20vAC on subwoofer pop noise appear.. maybe 23-25 on other song.. ''i tested at free air ''
Hello.
I had a similar problem, and everything was from the control pod.
Try another bridge if you can only get the test.
@@ElektroGamer30 thankx for reply! Ankther prodge amplifier? Or another bridge rectifier? I think problem is from high voltage.. +-38vcc. For bridge And 8 ohm load îs huge voltage. I'm not sure.. Tda7294 are original from z5500. Not changed
@@GeoBass-89 I changed the control pod.
I didn't have time to open it to see what the problem was!
Bos..
Gigital tulis over teperature..🙏🙏
Saya tidak mengerti apa yang Anda maksud.
Sambungan dibuat dengan suhu 380 derajat Celcius
@@ElektroGamer30 bos...watshap please...🙏🙏
@@roniawan6742 We can discuss here, in case anyone has similar problems to be able to find the solution.
@@ElektroGamer30 ..the problem in the scrane have mute on offer temperatur,..and also no have sound,..how is the solution,,thank you...
@@roniawan6742 ruclips.net/video/jJs0bw-5pt0/видео.html&lc=UgwHAqLAYunTUyzWwcN4AaABAg
There was another person with this problem in another video of mine.
I don't know exactly if he tried to fix it or not. (Dan Tha Man)
The new model by logitech is better the amp is so beautiful
Hey bro. I have a logitech z 55000. One of the bass sound ic blew off during play. I replaced it but it blew off at the moment I turn the main switch on. Tried replacing it four times but same results. Please I need your assistance on how to repair it. We can chat on WhatsApp if that will be fine with you
What exactly did he blow?
I need more details.
It's probably something short-circuited.
We can talk here.
@@ElektroGamer30 one of the bass TDA 7294 ic failed. What happened is it overheats just after inserting the power cable and burns.
@@abelnyarko4871 Carefully check everywhere for a short circuit on the board.
Check carefully and how you replaced the TDA, you may have damaged a component next to it.
Also try to replace the capacitor next to the TDA (C506) Aging of the capacitors can lead to the blowing of the TDA
Your mica pad between the heatsink and ic is damaged. You need to find a new mica or silicon sheet.