Great video Matty. New First Mills are sold by Modern Tools in Bayswater, Melbourne. They may be able to assist with a manual and possibly parts. The auto feed units that they have stocked in the past appear different to the more common ones sold elswhere so again they may be able to assist with parts for your auto feed.
One for next time, if you really want close to zero run-out you should leave the surface oversized and true it up in the mill spindle. Good job, she'll be alright for what you need and 0.02mm RO is very decent.
another thing I thought of too, do your drilled and tapped holes and then turn everything between centers. then you'd have zero run out between your taper and the surface the shell mill sits on (that goes for the back face as well. and if your tapped holes aren't straight it won't matter because turning between them will minimize any mismatch drastically.
Nice job Matty! This really is the best kind of face mill for a bridgeport type machine. I use mine all the time for when I need to take off a lot of metal. I let it run about 500-600 rpm with a 300mm/min or so feed rate and just let it eat
Matty I have a Bridgeport Clone marketed as McClane. Made in China but the head is made in Tiawan. The same mill is marketed in many different brands. Even the PM Mathews is the same mill. AS well as Sharp and Acer and many many more. The only manual I could find is branded Birmingham. I have the paper copy that I could take a picture of the belt drive head and email it to you if that would help. My quill kept falling down with any weight at all on it. I took the handle off and looked inside on the right side and the clock spring had came off. It is really simple to work on as I took pictures as I took it apart. I prefer the belt drive because it is so much Quiter. I gutted the electrical panel and put a VFD inside the panel and it is quite as a church mouse, and I do not have to change pulleys to have variable speed. I absolutely love. it. I very seldom use my PM Mathews 833T gear drive mill anymore because of the difference in noise and speed. Thanks for bringing us along.
Gday Terry, Thanks to a viewer I was able to get in contact with the company here in Australia that sell the First Mill, These guys were kind enough to send me a parts breakdown and parts list of the mill, I got super lucky mate, I really don't mind the step pulley setup now I have the VFD, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Mat I had a funny feeling when you where getting the trailer ready for a 500KM road trip a new machine was coming to the shop. I could not hear any excessive noise from the bearings. If you only getting 0.0001 runout from the spindle I would say the spindle drive is in perfect health.
Gday, The trailer repair was after I picked the machine up, I was on another mission for a mate when I did the 500k trip, the mill pickup was a 1000k adventure, was a fun day to, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Congrats on new machine. Always nice to get more equipment in the shop. I am trying to convince my wife I need a bigger shop, but she says I will just get more stuff and then need a bigger shop again. Great Video.
You can go off people you know!!! 😆. I am not in the least bit jealous 😭😭😭. Well done mate, good score, and in my opinion the pulley change heads are far more durable than the vari drive versions. Spindle sounds ok, heard far worse. I would start with your X Axis gib adjustment based on the noises you are getting, followed by Y. Got to ask yourself why the traverse gear is mangled.......start there and work backwards. 👍🏴
Gday Jon, Im pretty stoked to have this mill, I've done some more investgating today and I believe I've found the issue, I really don't mind the step pulley setup, its not that hard to change the belt speed at all and its quite, Appreciate you watching as always mate, Cheers
My biggest apologies !! I just realised I have not been a subscriber until now .. I get notified , I watch then like…but never have I been subscribed. 🤦🏻 . Sorted now. Appreciate your work. Probably more so the little chuckles at your own joke in each video you make .. 🤣 gets me every time. Cheers 🍻
Hi Matty, good post mate, enjoyed it. We had a mill that was branded to "Sharp", but was a 'First' mill, made by Long Chang Machinery Co., Taiwan. Had to get a manual off them but had to pay. As for the right spot on the quill, block the quill so it won't fall on your toes. Take out the handle and you will remove the pinion, could be a clue on that. You could also have a look at the rack through the pinion hole. Regards to you and family 👍
Gday, Ive been lucky enough to get the information from First on the mill today, I just have to start finding the issue now, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
That is a bridgeport clone, mine had issue with sticking quill and I found the collar around the quill stop screw was slightly cocked. it rides up and down the front window with a close tolerance to the machine and if off slightly it would drag. Mine would get out of alignment when it sprang up to the top. I simply turned it to square with the window with a crescent wrench, spanner to you I believe, and it worked smoothly. Of course this was after complete disassembly and reassembly. I also loosened the return spring for the quill so it does not return as hard. Hope yours is the same, if so it will take less than a minute to correct. This is the collar that surrounds the quill stop screw. Look in the back part where it attaches to the quill and its square shoulder clearance to the machined vertical slot.
Great job on the arbour Matty. The slight cushion at the top of the quill travel is a good thing. Saves the quill whacking the bottom of the spindle when you let go of the handle. I had an old Richmond mill that was the same. Never gave any problems. ATB regards from the UK
Gday Matty nice job as always I had to make an nt30 arbor for a tapping chuck all worked out fine but the material I used was the hardest I have ever machined I had to use ceramic inserts for the whole job
Hi Matty, I got one of those in a job lot - all done except the end was not drilled and threaded. And then I dried to drill and tap it I found out why it was unfinished !! No drill or tap I have would touch it. And so a quick job became a long job .... all in a future video when I get a slot for it. Cheers Paul
Gday Dave, hopefully its not going to take to much dealing in, I'll be happy if the spindle bearings only need an adjustment, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Fantastic job on the arbour Matty. You always produce incredible finishes. Love your new mill. I'm sure you will sort out all the problems. Well done mate. Cheers Nobby
Im pretty excited about this one mate, I still like the Cincinnati but its bloody nice to have a knee thats only have the weight to lift and a quill, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Re first mill. The tightness at the top of the quill will probably be due to the adjustable depth stop fitting . They tend to distort the quill tube slightly if banged to a stop.
the quill sleeve gaurd may be binding Matty on the top stroke of travel, check your height stop window see if you have crap in there. its a tight fit so any swarf may be the culprit
Fantastic new addition, Snuck that in on us. A quill, who hooooo. Nice face mill holder job too. If you give us a way, to contribute to spindle bearing and DRO fund, I have a few spare bucks to give back to ya, seriously let us know... WHOOOO HOOO a new mill.
Gday, Thanks very much for your offer, i'm just going to see how I go over the next few months with the YT revenue, Im hoping the bearings only need an adjustment and not replacing, I can get away without a dro for a while and go back to hand wheels and dial indicators, Just means its a bit slower thats all, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Congrats mate on the new mill. Very happy for you and now you have more capabilities for your shop. Can't wait to see what you will build next. Be safe. Cheers
Gday Yves, thanks very much mate, Its going to be nice to have a quill again and not have to always be winding the knee up and down, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Nice work on the adapter Matty ! Congrats on the new mill.. Other than the 30 taper it looks like very close if not exact copy of a J head Bridgeport. If all else fails there some good rebuild manuals for the Bridgeport. Cheers....ATB....
Gday Dean, I'm pretty sure there all the same when its all boiled down, I was lucky enough to get the information from First today thankfully, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Congratulations on what looks like a really nice, new to you mill and good to see you looking so chipper Matty. I bought a universal mill (1966 vintage) in really good condition, which is still being set up, which is ISO40 on both spindles. I priced up EN8 (1045) material to make some new tool holders, which would have been around £40 per holder. My local tooling merchant, also one of the UK's biggest suppliers had a January offer of YG-1 ISO40 tooling, balanced to 15K, at just over £20 each. I ended up splurging rather more than I originally intended on 10 of various types, I quite simply couldn't justify machining them myself. Have a look at Tom's Rabbit Hole, he now has the ability to hob helical gears on his much modified mill, he may be able to help out.
Gday, Bill, I found thew same thing here, I was looking at making my own collet arbors first, I ended up buying one for $49, By the time I brought a collet nut and material it was well over the $49 and still had to do the machining, I also brought a ISO30-MT3 for $44, Ive been following Tom for quite a while, He is bloody amazing and im fascinated with what's he's done, its truly a work out art mate, truly appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
I'll bet Keith Fenner could help you out. While he has not worked on that brand (that I know of) He has had a few apart. He's a very smart feller. Keep Smilin
Hi Matty! Excellent video and congrats on the new mill! With regards to the spindle bearings, have you considered dropping Keith Rucker a shout? Hope your health is holding up and the Mrs is well.
Gday, Thanks very much, i've managed to get all the information today from First, These guys were extremely helpful, The health is going ok, still not 100% yet but I'll get there mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty. What a lovely milling machine. Huge . Wonder if there is some wear at begining of quill travel from it been probably used more at that part than the rest of the travel. Splines worn maybe. Enjoy. Steve.
I am 80% sure that is the same as a bridgeport. I have a millport. Its a colne as well. H&W machine has a lot of video on RUclips. Thats where i started with my mill. I did find a guy that put 3 lower bearing in them. To make them better i believe they call it a 6 pack upgrade.. hope that helps
Hi Matty, Great video. I herd you at the beginning refer to ISO30 and NT30 as if they are interchangeable. I too believed they were similar enough and bought an ISO arbour for my face mill when my mill is actually a NT30. The difference is in the draw bar thread even though the draw bar thread on both is both 12mm. Once you remove the ball connection thing the ISO taper is too short. I ended up making an extension for the draw bar but then a 12mm internal thread was edge to edge with a 12mm external thread. That didn’t end well 🤠 I made a second longer extension and then a 20mm spacer on top of the draw bar and it all worked. So you can use an ISO taper tool in a NT taper machine but you need to make some adapters. Might be good to mention this if a similar topic comes up again in another of your videos. Love your work Dave.
Gday Davo shed for future reference a piece of m12 threaded bar from bunnings works fine for that as well I bought a cheap er32 collet chuck with an iso30 taper from ebay and had a similar issue
You need a longer drawbar fr the ISO compared to the NT, beccause the ISO doesn't have the straight end piece at the top, but the taper and general dimensions are identical. The ISO is used more in CNC equipment or where you have auto locking, and they have a screw in pin that the auto locking mechanism locks onto.
@@D40..While the thread will fit, the threaded rod may not be of the same stress grade as the bolt. Most bolts and similar sold in major hardware stores are usually no more than grade 4.6, where drawbars are higher strength steels like 8.8 or higher. You can get threaded rod in higher grades too, but you need to go to a bolt and fastener type outlet. If you have the equipment, it is not hard to make a suitable bolt with some higher quality rod, and use the lathe to thread the end as required, and you avoid all those sharp edges that scratch around inside the spindle.
Hi Matty. Great video Matty. Loved the machining. Your new mill looks great. I have a couple of Tom Senior mills with no quill and will be keeping my mill drill as want the height. The Tom Seniors are a small horizontal mill with a vertical knuckle attachment. Keep well cheers Mike
Hi Mate, I have a First LC-1 1/2 mill I bought new just over a year ago. I have the manuals for both the TM and VS heads. I can send through a copy of the manual & parts list if you want.
Gday, Thanks very much for your offer, I've been lucky enough to get a copy today from First, They were extremely helpful mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
G'day Matty, 7.00am here, fresh coffee and I'm settling down to watch this mate, I know from the start you'll have made an epic job of it, hope you're keeping well buddy, have a great one, and thanks for sharing
Interesting video Matty. Congrats on the new mill, it took me a good 12 months+ to recover from buying my mill, so I know the hip pocket pain well & sympathise. Could Max maybe make the helical gear for you perhaps? I actually have a dividing head with all the gears and banjos to cut helical gears, but I just don’t have the knowledge or skill yet. Maybe Max could borrow it and make the gear you need with it? Gotta be a way to get it sorted for you. Maybe you shoot across to WA & do a collaborative task with Max & you both film it or something? 🤷♂️ I’d help in any way I could.
Gday Ian, Its going go take a long time to recover from getting this mill thats for sure, i'd love to get to WA one day but cant see that happening any time soon, Ive had a chap in the USA offer to get in touch with Servo and find out if the gear is still available, Im really hoping it is so I can keep then machine original, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
If you are not familiar, H & W Machine Repair channel has a wealth of Bridgeport & clone information. And they may be a great source for parts... but maybe not cost effective shipping across the equator.
Matty I really like the adjustable block you have under the arbor and on top of the 1-2-3 block. I would love to have a drawing or see the video of you making it.
Hi Matty love the video. On your mill most of these are clones of the bridgeport. A couple of years back I refurbished my own called a supermax. I used the bridgeport manual and a company called H &W machine repair and rebuild. They have a RUclips channel as well with a lot of videos on mainly bridgeport. It helped a lot to figure how the machine fits together. Mine also has the NT 30 taper.
Hi Matty, great that you have a spring in your step once more, I can hear it in your delivery. I have an Acra mill it has two "oil me every day points" which used to be very religious about. I found that it can get overoiled and the bit that gets least used gets gummy, use and a lighter oil sorts it for me.
Gday, I starting to feel a lot better after the chemo, i'm still not 100% but much better then I was, Its only time now, thanks for the heads up on the oil mate, Much appreciated, Cheers
Hi Matty, just buy an ALSGS or Align power feed, the helical gears are the same and if you strip one, easily done, buy a new gear, cheap as chips. I had a similar mill, branded Smart. The heads are all the same, make sure it is well oiled and adjust the preloaded on the bearings.. Mine had Turcite on chrome ways, last forever. Have to persevere with my mill drill for now, such is life.
The Align and ALSGS power feeds are 230 Volt, no need for transformer. I stripped a gear in mine, not waiting for it to slow down and putting in reverse, otherwise they are bullet proof.
Gday, If I can pick up a gear for the Servo power feed it would be nice to keep it all original, if the gear isn't available then i'll look at getting a new one, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Fantastic job on the Arbor. . really looks good. . Awesome that you have a new mill. . Is there an update on your medical condition? How is the Funding for your medical expenses going? Is there enough?? Your TEAM is here so just say so ! ! !
Gday Paul, I put an update out a little while ago, I’m in remission thankfully but there’s quite a few other issues they are trying to sort out, we are ok financially at the present moment, I have many more trips away to Canberra hospital coming up over the next few years but I’m sure we’ll be ok, appreciate you support mate, cheers
I have a LIOHO version of what you have. Really, really close to Bridgeport. I believe they were made under license. I doubt your spindle bearings a re bad, but your call. Get the DRO's sorted before bearings I reckon. Love your work.
Wooooo Hooooo 🥳🥳 A spindle rebuild 👏👏👏 No disappointment there for us mate….. it means another Matty’s Workshop video 😎 Can’t wait mate…. Sand that turret mill looks to have been well cared for. Regards Robert PS Does it have a quill auto feed?
Gday Robert, Its not going to be a complete strip down and i'm pretty happy about that, for a 1980 model machine its in good condition overall and it does have a auto feed on the quill, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Hey Matty, my Bridgeport quill has that same tight spot. It started after a cheap Chinese-em arbor got stuck in quill, I had to adjust the guide pin in the spindle and once I got it sorted out and adjusted properly the tight spot went away. I guess what I’m saying is to check the alignment pin in the spindle, or even remove it and test the quill operation, if it clears up the tight spot then there is your problem.
Gday, It would of been nice to have a variable speed head but this was all I could afford, Im not a fan either but im going to have to get used to it, Thanks for watching, Cheers
I'm sure ClickSpring could make you a 9mm gear! Or Mark Presling could make one in any colour you wanted! Kurtis could obviously make you a 900mm one! What a nice problem to have - I'm envious a little. God Bless
G'day Matty, sorry only got to this today ( Saturday) nice job mate. 0.02 runout is pretty good even with the suspected spindle bearing problem. If you do have to replace them, then theoretically the runout should be even less. Presumably the bearings will be taper roller ones, so the replacement of them should be pretty straightforward mate. Anyway you'll get it sorted knowing you Matty . Is there a visual ding on the outside surface of the quill around the place where it goes tight? Hopefully it's something like that, that you can stone down to ease it. Cheers from England, Sam
Gday Sam, there annular contact bearings and there getting replaced, once the spindle is out I can have a good look at the internal taper, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Matty don't convert to angle, stay with a slope .i.e. the ratio of the length of your sine bar to the taper length (24) it the same as the ratio of the depth of the taper to your gauge block stack , so no tables required just divide and multiply
Gday, I really wish I payed more attention in maths class at school rather then looking at log trucks going past out the window, I have a lot of trouble when it comes to numbers mate, Cheers
On the left hand side inside the aluminium flicker box, there will be a retainer nut on the end of the rack..beware the quill raiser spring. Pull the rack out, the quill should come straight out. Might be wise to get a low profile nut on your draw bolt. And attach a gentle slide hammer to extract the quill
Mechanic, not machinist ... BUT ... that quill bearing definitely sounds Dry, not Worn to my ears. I would hazard that it's similar to Curtis' mill that just needed lube every so often to silence it, and runout wasn't an issue. Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Matty. New First Mills are sold by Modern Tools in Bayswater, Melbourne. They may be able to assist with a manual and possibly parts. The auto feed units that they have stocked in the past appear different to the more common ones sold elswhere so again they may be able to assist with parts for your auto feed.
Yeah, that’s a pretty awesome-mill, yeah with no DRO big change, but it’s nice. I like it.
It's always a good day when matty has a video out, love the new machine and can't wait to see it getting used
Thanks mate, Glad your enjoying the videos, Im pretty keen to get the mill sorted and start putting it top use properly, Cheers
❤❤
Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
One for next time, if you really want close to zero run-out you should leave the surface oversized and true it up in the mill spindle. Good job, she'll be alright for what you need and 0.02mm RO is very decent.
Gday, Ive seen this done before but didn't give it a thought, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
another thing I thought of too, do your drilled and tapped holes and then turn everything between centers. then you'd have zero run out between your taper and the surface the shell mill sits on (that goes for the back face as well. and if your tapped holes aren't straight it won't matter because turning between them will minimize any mismatch drastically.
Nice job Matty! This really is the best kind of face mill for a bridgeport type machine. I use mine all the time for when I need to take off a lot of metal. I let it run about 500-600 rpm with a 300mm/min or so feed rate and just let it eat
Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Matty I have a Bridgeport Clone marketed as McClane. Made in China but the head is made in Tiawan. The same mill is marketed in many different brands. Even the PM Mathews is the same mill. AS well as Sharp and Acer and many many more. The only manual I could find is branded Birmingham. I have the paper copy that I could take a picture of the belt drive head and email it to you if that would help. My quill kept falling down with any weight at all on it. I took the handle off and looked inside on the right side and the clock spring had came off. It is really simple to work on as I took pictures as I took it apart. I prefer the belt drive because it is so much Quiter. I gutted the electrical panel and put a VFD inside the panel and it is quite as a church mouse, and I do not have to change pulleys to have variable speed. I absolutely love. it. I very seldom use my PM Mathews 833T gear drive mill anymore because of the difference in noise and speed. Thanks for bringing us along.
Gday Terry, Thanks to a viewer I was able to get in contact with the company here in Australia that sell the First Mill, These guys were kind enough to send me a parts breakdown and parts list of the mill, I got super lucky mate, I really don't mind the step pulley setup now I have the VFD, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
You continually amaze me with those perfect finishes you accomplish on your lathe.
Gday, it’s all in the speeds and feeds mate, thanks for watching, cheers
Mat I had a funny feeling when you where getting the trailer ready for a 500KM road trip a new machine was coming to the shop. I could not hear any excessive noise from the bearings. If you only getting 0.0001 runout from the spindle I would say the spindle drive is in perfect health.
Gday, The trailer repair was after I picked the machine up, I was on another mission for a mate when I did the 500k trip, the mill pickup was a 1000k adventure, was a fun day to, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Congrats on new machine. Always nice to get more equipment in the shop. I am trying to convince my wife I need a bigger shop, but she says I will just get more stuff and then need a bigger shop again. Great Video.
Gday, Thats the problem with this hobby, we keep filling all the spaces and always need a bigger workshop, Thanks for watching mate., Cheers
No lies detected 😂
Thanks for the tip on the TNGG inserts they work well.
Gday, the TNGG inserts are brilliant, thanks for watching, cheers
You can go off people you know!!! 😆. I am not in the least bit jealous 😭😭😭. Well done mate, good score, and in my opinion the pulley change heads are far more durable than the vari drive versions. Spindle sounds ok, heard far worse. I would start with your X Axis gib adjustment based on the noises you are getting, followed by Y. Got to ask yourself why the traverse gear is mangled.......start there and work backwards. 👍🏴
Gday Jon, Im pretty stoked to have this mill, I've done some more investgating today and I believe I've found the issue, I really don't mind the step pulley setup, its not that hard to change the belt speed at all and its quite, Appreciate you watching as always mate, Cheers
Hey Matty, very nice work on the NT 30 arbor.....nice find on the new mill.....i know your going to enjoy that.
Thanks mate, Once I sort out the couple of little things I think its going be a fantastic machine, Thanks for watching, Cheers
My biggest apologies !! I just realised I have not been a subscriber until now ..
I get notified , I watch then like…but never have I been subscribed.
🤦🏻 . Sorted now.
Appreciate your work. Probably more so the little chuckles at your own joke in each video you make .. 🤣 gets me every time.
Cheers 🍻
Gday, no need to apologise and thanks for subscribing, the same has happened to me as well, I glad you enjoy the videos mate, cheers
Congratulations on the new mill machine she is a beautiful piece that is my dream machine .looks like your feeling better thank goodness
Gday, Im pretty excited to have the mill, its been a long to coming thats for sure, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Hi Matty, great addition to the shop! The issues you mentioned won’t take you long to sort out. Can’t wait to see you really put it through its paces.
Gday, Im hoping to have it sorted out in the next week or so all going well, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Great addition to your shop! Great video! Thanks for your time and sharing! 👍😎✌️
Thanks very much mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hi Matty, good post mate, enjoyed it.
We had a mill that was branded to "Sharp", but was a 'First' mill, made by Long Chang Machinery Co., Taiwan. Had to get a manual off them but had to pay. As for the right spot on the quill, block the quill so it won't fall on your toes. Take out the handle and you will remove the pinion, could be a clue on that. You could also have a look at the rack through the pinion hole. Regards to you and family 👍
Gday, Ive been lucky enough to get the information from First on the mill today, I just have to start finding the issue now, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
That is a bridgeport clone, mine had issue with sticking quill and I found the collar around the quill stop screw was slightly cocked. it rides up and down the front window with a close tolerance to the machine and if off slightly it would drag. Mine would get out of alignment when it sprang up to the top. I simply turned it to square with the window with a crescent wrench, spanner to you I believe, and it worked smoothly. Of course this was after complete disassembly and reassembly. I also loosened the return spring for the quill so it does not return as hard. Hope yours is the same, if so it will take less than a minute to correct. This is the collar that surrounds the quill stop screw. Look in the back part where it attaches to the quill and its square shoulder clearance to the machined vertical slot.
Gday, Thanks very much for the heads up i'll check that out and see how I go, Much appreciated mate, Cheers
Great job on the arbour Matty. The slight cushion at the top of the quill travel is a good thing. Saves the quill whacking the bottom of the spindle when you let go of the handle. I had an old Richmond mill that was the same. Never gave any problems. ATB regards from the UK
Gday, In one way its a good thing for sure but worries me in another way that its not right, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Gday Matty nice job as always I had to make an nt30 arbor for a tapping chuck all worked out fine but the material I used was the hardest I have ever machined I had to use ceramic inserts for the whole job
Gday, I have to get some ceramic inserts myself, I have some stock here I need to get the case hardening off, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hi Matty, I got one of those in a job lot - all done except the end was not drilled and threaded. And then I dried to drill and tap it I found out why it was unfinished !! No drill or tap I have would touch it. And so a quick job became a long job .... all in a future video when I get a slot for it. Cheers Paul
Gday Paul, that sounds like an interesting video coming up mate, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Another great build Matty, very inspirational. Cheers Steve O
Thanks very Steve, You have me thinking after watching the tru-set chuck build, That was fantastic, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty, congratulations on your new mill. I'm looking forward to watching you get it dialed in. Good luck finding the manuals. Regards, Dave
Gday Dave, hopefully its not going to take to much dealing in, I'll be happy if the spindle bearings only need an adjustment, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hi. Nice work again Matty. The new machine looks like a pretty solid bit of kit once one or two snags are sorted. Anyway, greetings from Amsterdam 👍🇳🇱
Gday, Im really happy with the mill so far considering its age and condition, Truly appreciate you watching, Cheers
Watching you machine is like watching an expert draw.
Thanks, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Nice! Anew milling machine. And it looks real good too. Congratulations.
And working without DRO is perfectly possible. Even I can :)
Gday Rustinox, Thanks very much, It makes you think a lot more when you don't have a dro, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Fantastic job on the arbour Matty. You always produce incredible finishes. Love your new mill. I'm sure you will sort out all the problems. Well done mate. Cheers Nobby
Gday Nobby, The arbor turned out alright in the end mate, I like shiny tools to, Appreciate you watching as always, Cheers
My sieg mill spindle probably has more run-out 😅 well done.
Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Who doesn't love a knee mill. Congrats on the new to you machine.
Im pretty excited about this one mate, I still like the Cincinnati but its bloody nice to have a knee thats only have the weight to lift and a quill, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Re first mill. The tightness at the top of the quill will probably be due to the adjustable depth stop fitting . They tend to distort the quill tube slightly if banged to a stop.
I thought maybe had a ringclamp on it for years - for a light or a measuring tool??? Since been removed
Thanks mate, I have some investigating to do I think, Cheers
the quill sleeve gaurd may be binding Matty on the top stroke of travel, check your height stop window see if you have crap in there. its a tight fit so any swarf may be the culprit
Gday Troy, thanks for the tip mate, I'll check that out tomorrow, Cheers
Nice work. Now I think I dare to make a flycutter to my mill
Gday, thanks very much, you can’t beat a fly cutter finish mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
Fantastic new addition, Snuck that in on us. A quill, who hooooo. Nice face mill holder job too. If you give us a way, to contribute to spindle bearing and DRO fund, I have a few spare bucks to give back to ya, seriously let us know... WHOOOO HOOO a new mill.
Gday, Thanks very much for your offer, i'm just going to see how I go over the next few months with the YT revenue, Im hoping the bearings only need an adjustment and not replacing, I can get away without a dro for a while and go back to hand wheels and dial indicators, Just means its a bit slower thats all, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Congrats mate on the new mill. Very happy for you and now you have more capabilities for your shop. Can't wait to see what you will build next. Be safe. Cheers
Gday Yves, thanks very much mate, Its going to be nice to have a quill again and not have to always be winding the knee up and down, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Good one Matty . 👍
Thanks for watching Max, Cheers
Nice work on the adapter Matty !
Congrats on the new mill.. Other than the 30 taper it looks like very close if not exact copy of a J head Bridgeport. If all else fails there some good rebuild manuals for the Bridgeport.
Cheers....ATB....
Gday Dean, I'm pretty sure there all the same when its all boiled down, I was lucky enough to get the information from First today thankfully, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Congratulations on what looks like a really nice, new to you mill and good to see you looking so chipper Matty.
I bought a universal mill (1966 vintage) in really good condition, which is still being set up, which is ISO40 on both spindles. I priced up EN8 (1045) material to make some new tool holders, which would have been around £40 per holder. My local tooling merchant, also one of the UK's biggest suppliers had a January offer of YG-1 ISO40 tooling, balanced to 15K, at just over £20 each. I ended up splurging rather more than I originally intended on 10 of various types, I quite simply couldn't justify machining them myself.
Have a look at Tom's Rabbit Hole, he now has the ability to hob helical gears on his much modified mill, he may be able to help out.
Gday, Bill, I found thew same thing here, I was looking at making my own collet arbors first, I ended up buying one for $49, By the time I brought a collet nut and material it was well over the $49 and still had to do the machining, I also brought a ISO30-MT3 for $44, Ive been following Tom for quite a while, He is bloody amazing and im fascinated with what's he's done, its truly a work out art mate, truly appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
hi Matty
Great addition to workshop👍👍👍👍👍👍
nice one
ATB
Kev
Thanks very much Kev, im hoping it'll last for many years mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
I'll bet Keith Fenner could help you out. While he has not worked on that brand (that I know of) He has had a few apart. He's a very smart feller. Keep Smilin
Gday, I have look through Keiths videos and see what I can find, Cheers
Beautiful work on the arbor - but wow what a find in that knee mill. Very nice indeed - that's superb.
Gday, Thanks very much, I'm pretty happy with the mill and for the age it's in pretty good condition, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty. I like your new machine. You're going to have fun with that. I like the drive dogs recessed like that. Happy mistake. 👍
Thanks very much mate, I really don't mind the look of the drive dogs recessed as well, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty! Excellent video and congrats on the new mill! With regards to the spindle bearings, have you considered dropping Keith Rucker a shout? Hope your health is holding up and the Mrs is well.
Gday, Thanks very much, i've managed to get all the information today from First, These guys were extremely helpful, The health is going ok, still not 100% yet but I'll get there mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty. What a lovely milling machine. Huge . Wonder if there is some wear at begining of quill travel from it been probably used more at that part than the rest of the travel. Splines worn maybe. Enjoy.
Steve.
Gday Steve, At this stage I think i've found the main issue in the spindle mate, Fingers crossed anyway, Thanks for watching, Cheers
I am 80% sure that is the same as a bridgeport. I have a millport. Its a colne as well. H&W machine has a lot of video on RUclips. Thats where i started with my mill. I did find a guy that put 3 lower bearing in them. To make them better i believe they call it a 6 pack upgrade.. hope that helps
Gday, I’ve been watching the H&W channel, there’s a heap of helpful information there, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hi Matty,
Great video.
I herd you at the beginning refer to ISO30 and NT30 as if they are interchangeable.
I too believed they were similar enough and bought an ISO arbour for my face mill when my mill is actually a NT30.
The difference is in the draw bar thread even though the draw bar thread on both is both 12mm.
Once you remove the ball connection thing the ISO taper is too short. I ended up making an extension for the draw bar but then a 12mm internal thread was edge to edge with a 12mm external thread.
That didn’t end well 🤠
I made a second longer extension and then a 20mm spacer on top of the draw bar and it all worked. So you can use an ISO taper tool in a NT taper machine but you need to make some adapters. Might be good to mention this if a similar topic comes up again in another of your videos.
Love your work
Dave.
Gday Dave, thanks very much for the information, This mill come with the 20mm spacer for the drawbar, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Gday Davo shed for future reference a piece of m12 threaded bar from bunnings works fine for that as well I bought a cheap er32 collet chuck with an iso30 taper from ebay and had a similar issue
You need a longer drawbar fr the ISO compared to the NT, beccause the ISO doesn't have the straight end piece at the top, but the taper and general dimensions are identical. The ISO is used more in CNC equipment or where you have auto locking, and they have a screw in pin that the auto locking mechanism locks onto.
@@D40..While the thread will fit, the threaded rod may not be of the same stress grade as the bolt. Most bolts and similar sold in major hardware stores are usually no more than grade 4.6, where drawbars are higher strength steels like 8.8 or higher. You can get threaded rod in higher grades too, but you need to go to a bolt and fastener type outlet. If you have the equipment, it is not hard to make a suitable bolt with some higher quality rod, and use the lathe to thread the end as required, and you avoid all those sharp edges that scratch around inside the spindle.
cutting fluid will save your cutters and stop a lot of the noise
I agree 100%, I need to make a cooling system at some stage, Thanks for watching, Cheers
New machine day is always the best day! Those spindle bearings are expensive. $340 US for the set for my R8 spindle.
Gday Greg, The bearings aren't cheap thats for sure, thanks for watching, Cheers
Matty, I hope you feel as good as you look and sound. I enjoy your videos very much.
Gday, definitely feeling a lot better now then I was a couple of months ago, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Nice addition to the workshop, hope the minor fixes are easy on you and the shop budget.
Thanks mate, Hopefully its an easy fix, fingers crossed, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty.
Great video Matty. Loved the machining. Your new mill looks great. I have a couple of Tom Senior mills with no quill and will be keeping my mill drill as want the height. The Tom Seniors are a small horizontal mill with a vertical knuckle attachment. Keep well cheers Mike
Gday, The biggest reason for getting this mill is for Z height, The Cincinnati is very limited, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Good work on the arbor Matty. That new mill looks to be in good nick. I'm sure you will make good use of it.
Thanks very much John, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Hi Mate,
I have a First LC-1 1/2 mill I bought new just over a year ago. I have the manuals for both the TM and VS heads. I can send through a copy of the manual & parts list if you want.
Gday, Thanks very much for your offer, I've been lucky enough to get a copy today from First, They were extremely helpful mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Yes ! Spindle bearings essential ! You will spend more on worn or broken end mills than the cost of a couple of bearings 😮
I dare say its going to get a new set of bearing mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Great video Matty, keep'um coming.
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching as always, Cheers
G'day Matty, 7.00am here, fresh coffee and I'm settling down to watch this mate, I know from the start you'll have made an epic job of it, hope you're keeping well buddy, have a great one, and thanks for sharing
Morning Ralfy, hope you feeling better mate, Enjoy ya coffee, im just cooking some curried snags for dinner, Cheers
Enjoy mate 👍🏻
Interesting video Matty. Congrats on the new mill, it took me a good 12 months+ to recover from buying my mill, so I know the hip pocket pain well & sympathise.
Could Max maybe make the helical gear for you perhaps?
I actually have a dividing head with all the gears and banjos to cut helical gears, but I just don’t have the knowledge or skill yet.
Maybe Max could borrow it and make the gear you need with it?
Gotta be a way to get it sorted for you.
Maybe you shoot across to WA & do a collaborative task with Max & you both film it or something? 🤷♂️
I’d help in any way I could.
Gday Ian, Its going go take a long time to recover from getting this mill thats for sure, i'd love to get to WA one day but cant see that happening any time soon, Ive had a chap in the USA offer to get in touch with Servo and find out if the gear is still available, Im really hoping it is so I can keep then machine original, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
If you are not familiar, H & W Machine Repair channel has a wealth of Bridgeport & clone information. And they may be a great source for parts... but maybe not cost effective shipping across the equator.
Gday, I've had a look at there videos and there very helpful, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
congrats on the new mill, l;m already looking forward to seeing the chips coming off of it.
another great video as always, keep on keeping on.
Gday, Im pretty keen to get it all sorted and start using it myself mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
nice job, and Congratulations on the new mill, cheers from Denmark
Thanks very much mate, cheers
Great video Matty. Great arbor build. Good luck on the mill parts assembly and replacements including the gear replacement.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks very much mate, truly appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
Keith also has manuals on his regular website.
Thanks mate, Cheers
Matty I really like the adjustable block you have under the arbor and on top of the 1-2-3 block. I would love to have a drawing or see the video of you making it.
Gday, I do have drawings of this, send me an email and I send you a copy, cheers
Nice work Matty, the finished arbor looks great. Cheers Tony
Thanks very much Tony, Appreciate you watching as always mate, Cheers
Nice one Matty, hope you can find a manual and the 90 mm gear for your new mill.
👍💪✌
Thanks mate, Im hoping I can find a gear to keep the mill original, Fingers crossed, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Always a pleasure to watch you work!
Thanks very much mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
Great Job Matty, happy new Turret Mill, not much TLC required.
Thanks mate, Overall its in pretty good condition for its age, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty love the video. On your mill most of these are clones of the bridgeport. A couple of years back I refurbished my own called a supermax. I used the bridgeport manual and a company called H &W machine repair and rebuild. They have a RUclips channel as well with a lot of videos on mainly bridgeport. It helped a lot to figure how the machine fits together. Mine also has the NT 30 taper.
Gday, quite a few have mentioned H&W, I’ve checked out there channel and it’s very helpful, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Love the new machine
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Hi Marty I have a first mill the same pretty sure I have a manual will have a look tomorrow
Gday, Ive been lucky enough to get a parts manual for the mill, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hi Matty, great that you have a spring in your step once more, I can hear it in your delivery. I have an Acra mill it has two "oil me every day points" which used to be very religious about. I found that it can get overoiled and the bit that gets least used gets gummy, use and a lighter oil sorts it for me.
Gday, I starting to feel a lot better after the chemo, i'm still not 100% but much better then I was, Its only time now, thanks for the heads up on the oil mate, Much appreciated, Cheers
Congrats on the new mill, looking forward to all the jobs on it mate.
Gday, Im pretty keen to get it all up and running Cheers
Nice addition to the shop. Good video. Thanks.
Thanks very much mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hi Matty, just buy an ALSGS or Align power feed, the helical gears are the same and if you strip one, easily done, buy a new gear, cheap as chips.
I had a similar mill, branded Smart.
The heads are all the same, make sure it is well oiled and adjust the preloaded on the bearings..
Mine had Turcite on chrome ways, last forever.
Have to persevere with my mill drill for now, such is life.
The Align and ALSGS power feeds are 230 Volt, no need for transformer.
I stripped a gear in mine, not waiting for it to slow down and putting in reverse, otherwise they are bullet proof.
Gday, If I can pick up a gear for the Servo power feed it would be nice to keep it all original, if the gear isn't available then i'll look at getting a new one, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
👍😎👍
Hope you get the necessary info on those bearings. Another nice “scrap” build.
Gday Sam, I'm hoping the bearings only need an adjustment, fingers crossed mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Oh and the cap is LH threaded on mine too, so watch out for that when removing or adjusting the alignment pin in the quill.
No worries mate, Cheers
Good vidio, congratulations on the new mill iam shur you will have it perfect soon
Thanks very much mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
A lovely job as usual. Thanks Matty!
Cheers mate, Appreciate you watching
Nice addition Matty. Wish I could get one, I've not enough ceiling height in my workshop
Thanks mate, thats a bugger not having enough ceiling height, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Fantastic job on the Arbor. . really looks good. . Awesome that you have a new mill. . Is there an update on your medical condition? How is the Funding for your medical expenses going? Is there enough?? Your TEAM is here so just say so ! ! !
Gday Paul, I put an update out a little while ago, I’m in remission thankfully but there’s quite a few other issues they are trying to sort out, we are ok financially at the present moment, I have many more trips away to Canberra hospital coming up over the next few years but I’m sure we’ll be ok, appreciate you support mate, cheers
I have a LIOHO version of what you have. Really, really close to Bridgeport. I believe they were made under license. I doubt your spindle bearings a re bad, but your call. Get the DRO's sorted before bearings I reckon. Love your work.
Gday, Im hoping the spindle bearings only need an adjustment, fingers crossed anyway, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Wooooo Hooooo 🥳🥳
A spindle rebuild 👏👏👏
No disappointment there for us mate….. it means another Matty’s Workshop video
😎
Can’t wait mate…. Sand that turret mill looks to have been well cared for.
Regards
Robert
PS Does it have a quill auto feed?
Gday Robert, Its not going to be a complete strip down and i'm pretty happy about that, for a 1980 model machine its in good condition overall and it does have a auto feed on the quill, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Hey Matty, my Bridgeport quill has that same tight spot. It started after a cheap Chinese-em arbor got stuck in quill, I had to adjust the guide pin in the spindle and once I got it sorted out and adjusted properly the tight spot went away. I guess what I’m saying is to check the alignment pin in the spindle, or even remove it and test the quill operation, if it clears up the tight spot then there is your problem.
Gday, Ill have a good look at the spindle mate, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
I hope those bearings aren't too pricey! Nice buy!! All the best, Matthew
Gday, Im hoping they only need a little adjustment, fingers crossed anyway mate, Thanks for watching, cheers
vertical mill is pretty sweet, only thing I don't like is the multi pulley for speed change, biggest thing I hate about my mill
Gday, It would of been nice to have a variable speed head but this was all I could afford, Im not a fan either but im going to have to get used to it, Thanks for watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop looks like a really nice machine otherwise
Hey Matty thanks for another great video, just getting set up to cut that 35 tooth gear I'll sent a photo when its done thanks for all your help
Gday Danny, Im looking forward to seeing the gear mate, Appreciate you always watching, Cheers
It's got personality 😉, it's a MW special 😀
Certainly has mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
My Dad recommended to me to drop the spindle all the way down and pull back and forth on it.
Gday Mick, I did that and I believe the issue is in the bearings mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
I'm sure ClickSpring could make you a 9mm gear! Or Mark Presling could make one in any colour you wanted! Kurtis could obviously make you a 900mm one! What a nice problem to have - I'm envious a little. God Bless
Gday, Im hoping I can get a replacement gear to keep the machine original, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Nice mill! I am jealous! Lol!
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
G'day Matty, sorry only got to this today ( Saturday) nice job mate. 0.02 runout is pretty good even with the suspected spindle bearing problem. If you do have to replace them, then theoretically the runout should be even less. Presumably the bearings will be taper roller ones, so the replacement of them should be pretty straightforward mate. Anyway you'll get it sorted knowing you Matty . Is there a visual ding on the outside surface of the quill around the place where it goes tight? Hopefully it's something like that, that you can stone down to ease it. Cheers from England, Sam
Gday Sam, there annular contact bearings and there getting replaced, once the spindle is out I can have a good look at the internal taper, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Matty don't convert to angle, stay with a slope .i.e. the ratio of the length of your sine bar to the taper length (24) it the same as the ratio of the depth of the taper to your gauge block stack , so no tables required just divide and multiply
Gday, I really wish I payed more attention in maths class at school rather then looking at log trucks going past out the window, I have a lot of trouble when it comes to numbers mate, Cheers
Hey Matty . You might check the set screw holding the spindle nose from coming loose. I had mine a little too tight and the same thing happened.
Gday, I look into that mate, Thanks for the heads up, Cheers
good job matty
Thanks very much mate, Cheers
Complimenti maestro 👍
Thanks for watching mate, cheers
On the left hand side inside the aluminium flicker box, there will be a retainer nut on the end of the rack..beware the quill raiser spring.
Pull the rack out, the quill should come straight out.
Might be wise to get a low profile nut on your draw bolt. And attach a gentle slide hammer to extract the quill
Gday, Thanks very much for your advice mate, Much appreciated, Cheers
Let me know how it goes
Mechanic, not machinist ... BUT ... that quill bearing definitely sounds Dry, not Worn to my ears. I would hazard that it's similar to Curtis' mill that just needed lube every so often to silence it, and runout wasn't an issue.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Gday, Im pretty sure I've found the issue in the spindle at this stage, nothing money won't fix as they say mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Good show Matty!
Thanks mate, Cheers
congrats on the new knee mill Matty! Email is on the way, I may have some helpful info on your spindle and power feed.
Gday, Thanks very much mate, Much appreciated, Cheers