A big thank you, buddy. You posted a video that included a bit about the starting capacitor on tumble dryers being the main reason they fail. And as if by magic. Mine went kaput a couple of days after I watched it. Gives me a cheap way of attempting to fix it when I would normally have thrown it out or got a guy in to sort it. Many thanks, dude.
"Sudden normality returns." Dammit, Clive, you know we watch your channel to escape from normality. "I like shocks when I know that I'm getting them." I need to remember to clear my browser history.
That "plug in" or "slide in" mounting system is becoming fairly common on all kinds of light units these days, and for low power systems, it is a real benefit! That LED tester is a pretty good buy too, and is great for testing LED assemblies mounted in "difficult to reach" locations. Thanks for doing the assessment some time ago!
I was just about to comment about this. NO way you could connect this according to electrical regulations in my neck of the woods. Well, at least without having an extra connector box between the lamp and the ceiling, which would look just great...
I just bought a power (watt / Kwh) meter from Lidl in their reduced to clear bin and have been taking it around the house plugging in all kinds of items to check if their telling the truth. I blame you Clive!
I jumped extra out of bed at 1.50 am to see you pushing that fun button. The Hopi delivered to me is gen 8 and no longer has the frequency display let alone the fun button.
BC I believe the Edison adapter shown on the box was for the US market to make it easy to install because the hole spacing does not work with plastic piece into our electrical boxes.
Just for interest, the colour temperature of 6,500K is historically associated with black and white TV. It was called D65 in TV broadcasting and was measured, I think in Los Angeles, to set the standard colour temperature for CRT phosphors. I think they accidentally chose an overcast day which I think is unusual for LA. The D stands for Daylight. It explains why TVs in colour movies always look blue. For anyone who remembers Pebble Mill at One which was shot in the foyer against a glass wall open to the outside, there was a constant engineering fight both to white balance the cameras to that temperature (before auto white balance) and to illuminate the set to such a bright level. This involved vast amounts of lighting and hence power. On a day when there'd just been a new lighting desk controller, computerised, installed and no pattern had been set up and the 'clever' desk assumed that everything must be at full level. Inevitably this blew fuses at the local sub station due to the enormous phase imbalance and excessive load demand. 😂😉
I’m pretty sure it suffered from the same issue that all early phosphors had, namely a narrow uneven band of emission. It was the same thing that plagued fluorescent lights. They always looked terrible no matter what the color temperature was. That said the black and white phosphor was reasonably well optimized for what it was. I wonder what a black and white picture would look like on a panel made with super-accurate white LEDs that emulate true black body radiation spectrum? It not only shows the picture, but provides pleasing full spectrum lighting to your room like there is a moving picture in front of a sunlit window.
That LA thing must be a myth. If you read Wikipedia they took many spectrum samples from different research groups and analyzed them to derive a locus they all reside on, one parameter being color temperature.
Depending on the flexibility of that buck regulator, they might not even need a 120v version of that light. Just operate at a higher duty cycle, if I have my memory straight. I do appreciate that this is actually replaceable to some extent, though it's still mostly destined for e-cycling/the landfill at EOL.
everything above 4000K burns my eyes into oblivion. H8 LED and Xenon headlight for that reason. halogen, even if set to high was fine on the eyes. led tho..... attempt murder on a backroad at night.
Nice unit, I have seen the slide on feature on some standard UK bayonet light drop ceiling roses, although executed somewhat more robustly. Downside is the hospital white colour temperature - would be useful if it were available in a warmer white .
We have a similar light (round case, slide-on mounting plate) in our bathroom. IIRC it outputs something like 3k lumen, so VERY bright, with a "daylight white" color temp. Replaced a neon tube that was a hard-to-get length (IIRC ~100cm, while common lengths around here are 120 and 150) and only produced a fraction of the light output while needing more power. Will have to see how long the LED panel will last, but so far it already survived a few years and hasn't roasted itself (yet).
Thanks Clive, the mounting method is handy as you just need to replace the housing. They will be ideal for my shed as it is big and the two tubes currently used do leave dim areas. In the UK on Ebay it costs £8.50 & £3.50 postage, there could be other listings elsewhere. Good posting mate 👍
Nice that they omitted the stuff that stops it going on fire in case of failure, but I guess that just adds "character"... :P (and as a random aside, I bought a little cheap (£2.50) battery powered lamp thing from Poundland yesterday cos it looks neat, 6x LEDs running in parallel directly off 3x AAA cells, touched the LEDs while they were lit and ouch, they get hot!!! Still, I have complete conversion modification plans afoot, so, no bother!)
The fuse is the leads to the fitting, they are that thin fusible wire so beloved by the PRC manufacturers, solderable, but also only capable of handling 200ma of current as well.
Thank you again Clive I am trying to get a power bank river max to be able to run my fridge freezer and both my freezers during a black out so having a lower light system will be nice. Jim from Scotland
My wife's aunt and her husband are both lawyers. They're also both lovely people, and we'd be sad if either one suddenly and randomly died. But despite all that, given the balance of probabilities, I still think pushing the "FUN button" is a worthwhile risk to take.
Clive, you could add a Variable transformer to your testing regimen to see how low of a voltage your DUT will operate. It would be cool for us here in the States to see if the things you test work on 120 volts. Great videos, love your stuff.😄
Instead of a proper red filter for that LED tester display, try a piece of kapton tape. Its orangey tint makes it work surprisingly well on red 7-segment displays and you don’t have to muck about with making room for the filter in the case. Cheap and effective.
Oooh, much appreciated, the analysis! I just recently got a whole bunch of those for renovations... bigger version though. Some of the square ones, some round ones, and a couple that can be controlled by remote for dimming, color temp, and whatnot. Mostly not for myself, new apartment for rental. Installed it myself, kind of a hassle. xD But way easier than most other options I guess. Didn't know about that adapter though... not that I was going to use it, but interesting to know nonetheless. Got a few extras exactly because of the ease to replace them. Also because they are fairly well enclosed, to this means no bugs to clean up. I made an effort back when I moved to my place to put sockets all over so that I could replace LED bulbs easily, but these days the LED panels are kinda winning out. Just because if you are going to go all bulbs, you kinda also have to invest on more expensive luminaires to make it look fancy. xD o/
That lamp adapter for a plug-in device is something I'd never thought could exist, but I guess it makes sense. Now I'm imagining putting that on a charger for a phone or something and making my friends do a double take as I hand them a phone charger connected to the socket in my desk lamp where the bulb should be.
In the US bulb socket to (ungrounded) outlet adapters are commonly available at home improvement stores. There are also common kits that screw into can light sockets and provide an LED panel that mount directly to the ceiling.
I’m using these kinda setup on my ceiling lights for the attic and it’s the same mechanism just that mine has a fan built in that comes with a remote to control it. Essentially a ceiling fan but connected to an E27 screw on type. Puts out decent enough air in a tiny space
I used lighting sockets in domestic and commercial jobs because they make decorating ( in domestic installs) and servicing ( in commercial situations) much quicker and easier. I think the ones I use are Legrand and don't have exposed metalwork when connecting and disconnecting.
hey clive, have you ever considered using slow-mo on a smartphone to test how well these various mains powered leds are smoothing the AC->DC in terms of flickering? flicker is my main attribute I am curious about in LED products, and you really cant get a good sense of it using a normal camera. love your vids thanks
Love the video. The box says Voltage 85-265V 50/60Hz Wow 18 watts rating at 17 actually good labeling still no ground :( Happy thanksgiving to all of you Americans out there
With your LED tester, you can colour in each segment with a red felt pen. This will increase the contrast without going to the trouble of fitting a physical red filter.
I've been using a similar light, just like the on you showed, for the last 18 months, in my kitchen, a 10 watt one. I replace an old 4 ft batten . With no problems whatsoever. What I did was to modify it, but installing a smart switch so I could use it with Amazon Alexa. It's great when you got your hands full like carrying mugs of tea. You can use you voice to turn the light on and off, plus you can still use the wall switch for those that are still stuck in the 20th century or before., now I'm using 10 watts of power instead of 36 watts
Ha! you think you are cleaver, I sit a garden solar light on my windowsill and it light the hall and stars to save me even putting the main lights on :-)
@@BillboBaggins-j5w haha so funny, I took one of those £1 spike lights apart, lengthened the leads so the solar panel is now taped to my very small kitchen window and the led sits on the shelf above it. Didn't work very well though as it only lasts a short time in winter and doesn't really provide that much light. As a proof of concept though I kind of like it.
@madmaveric More Solar Panels and Batteries. I like to buy 2 or 3 units, and use the extra Panels and Batteries to cover me in power outages, also. IR detection helps keep the batteries charged longer. Use NiMH batteries.
@@snakezdewiggle6084 That was what I was thinking as well. Maybe 2/3 lights (the single led isn't really enough) and 5 or 6 panels. The cheap one I got didn't have IR on it either (just daylight sensor). I've started to think I should just buy the parts and build it myself though now lol. Or maybe get one of the bigger ones rather than the cheapest garden path lights type lol
@@madmaveric I think someone should design a solar light strip that fits to your windows. On the outside it takes the light and charges a battery on the inside that power a light inside. If you had one on each window most homes wouldn't need the grid for lighting.
Clive has explained it many times.....the branded Hopi is not accurate at low current levels. The new one reads all the way down to almost zero current levels.
Through hole resistors. I'm betting the factory gets circuit boards with surface mount type in a couple of power levels and some without the surface mount so they can solder in what they need at the moment.
These type of lights are handy if you want to install LED downlighters in a building with a flat roof where it would be almost impossible to install can style lights due to lack of room above the ceiling
That's a neat idea for the mounting system, but...what does the mount attach to? It's possible my sense of scale is off, but that doesn't appear to be large enough to cover a J-Box, and it ships with bare wires, not terminated with a wall plug... Very confuse!
"Let's open this", tis the season after all. Hmm, but its always "the season' at your place.😉😆 Plenty of room in this one for a Charger and Battery(s), IR detection etc.
It IS interesting that changing those resistors can change the wattage of the led lamp, but is there a practical reason to do so? Will they "live" longer while still giving most of the original light or are there other benefits to do this hack? I like modding stuff just as much as most nerds but I also like a good/practical reason to do so. Every change comes with a bit of risk I just wonder what the reward is for taking it.
Teardown and reverse engineer the Hopi/AnTai meters, hacks and mods😉... It seems the light output remained relatively the same after removing the 15ohm resister and then adding a 2.2ohm, while the wattage was reduced by realistically half. Of course my screen could have something to do with the observation.. Thanks Clive.
These aren't already bad at all, it seems; yet, I foresee some potential for such connectors to be adopted/reengineered further by other parties in the market.
we have that type light in our house, we found out the electrician didn't do well getting the bases straight (buy round ones). I've had to adjust all the square ones so they look better. It's really handy to pop off when painting the ceiling and replacing one when it dies.
You know things have gone downhill when not only does the picture on the website not line up with the product, but neither does the one on the box it is physically sitting in 🤣
I imagine when sliding the light onto the fitting, the light will be pretty flush with the ceiling. Not only making sure you can't touch any bare contacts, but also making it bloody difficult to line up.
When I test stuff like that, I use a variable resistor (pot) to determine the best level. Put one in permanently in that lamp and it becomes adjustable.
Voltages... While it's true that the voltage across the LED panel is around 65 volts or so, the positive side of the panel swings from just above mains neutral (when mains live goes negative) to around 330 volts DC above mains neutral (when mains live goes poitive) due to the behaviour of the bridge rectifier. That could give someone a nasty jolt if they were only anticipating around 65 volts...
I was called out to a suspect faulty one of those but found it had just slid off the connection on the ceiling. I couldn’t bring myself to charge for the call out fee.
A big thank you, buddy. You posted a video that included a bit about the starting capacitor on tumble dryers being the main reason they fail. And as if by magic. Mine went kaput a couple of days after I watched it. Gives me a cheap way of attempting to fix it when I would normally have thrown it out or got a guy in to sort it. Many thanks, dude.
"They all bake!" Welcome to "Cooking with Clive." Great video. 👍
🤣😂🍳🫕🥘🍻😉
"Sudden normality returns." Dammit, Clive, you know we watch your channel to escape from normality.
"I like shocks when I know that I'm getting them." I need to remember to clear my browser history.
That "plug in" or "slide in" mounting system is becoming fairly common on all kinds of light units these days, and for low power systems, it is a real benefit! That LED tester is a pretty good buy too, and is great for testing LED assemblies mounted in "difficult to reach" locations. Thanks for doing the assessment some time ago!
2:59 the code on the board actually does tell you how many LEDs and their configuration: 4B24C = 4x24=96 LEDs.
"I hope it doesn't burst into flames"
Burgle us of *all* the excitement, why don't you?
Still love the continual homage to the death beam capacitors.
Such a generous length of mains cable supplied with it!
Lucky if passes through dry wall ceiling.
I was just about to comment about this. NO way you could connect this according to electrical regulations in my neck of the woods. Well, at least without having an extra connector box between the lamp and the ceiling, which would look just great...
I prefer light fixtures with a terminal block inside so I can connect my own cable.
I just bought a power (watt / Kwh) meter from Lidl in their reduced to clear bin and have been taking it around the house plugging in all kinds of items to check if their telling the truth. I blame you Clive!
I jumped extra out of bed at 1.50 am to see you pushing that fun button. The Hopi delivered to me is gen 8 and no longer has the frequency display let alone the fun button.
BC I believe the Edison adapter shown on the box was for the US
market to make it easy to install because the hole spacing does not work with plastic piece into our electrical boxes.
Just for interest, the colour temperature of 6,500K is historically associated with black and white TV. It was called D65 in TV broadcasting and was measured, I think in Los Angeles, to set the standard colour temperature for CRT phosphors. I think they accidentally chose an overcast day which I think is unusual for LA. The D stands for Daylight. It explains why TVs in colour movies always look blue.
For anyone who remembers Pebble Mill at One which was shot in the foyer against a glass wall open to the outside, there was a constant engineering fight both to white balance the cameras to that temperature (before auto white balance) and to illuminate the set to such a bright level. This involved vast amounts of lighting and hence power.
On a day when there'd just been a new lighting desk controller, computerised, installed and no pattern had been set up and the 'clever' desk assumed that everything must be at full level. Inevitably this blew fuses at the local sub station due to the enormous phase imbalance and excessive load demand. 😂😉
I always thoght 6500K looks very unnatural and has nothing common with day light.
I’m pretty sure it suffered from the same issue that all early phosphors had, namely a narrow uneven band of emission. It was the same thing that plagued fluorescent lights. They always looked terrible no matter what the color temperature was. That said the black and white phosphor was reasonably well optimized for what it was. I wonder what a black and white picture would look like on a panel made with super-accurate white LEDs that emulate true black body radiation spectrum? It not only shows the picture, but provides pleasing full spectrum lighting to your room like there is a moving picture in front of a sunlit window.
Interesting, thank you.
That LA thing must be a myth. If you read Wikipedia they took many spectrum samples from different research groups and analyzed them to derive a locus they all reside on, one parameter being color temperature.
Great comment. Thanks.
Depending on the flexibility of that buck regulator, they might not even need a 120v version of that light. Just operate at a higher duty cycle, if I have my memory straight. I do appreciate that this is actually replaceable to some extent, though it's still mostly destined for e-cycling/the landfill at EOL.
The sticker said 165-265 V, which is a rather odd range...
I hate that color temperature... I always feel like somebody is going to yell at me " And now you will talk" 🤣
"Is it safe?" 😫
I like the super white lights. Not sure why but I find yellow color depressing.
everything above 4000K burns my eyes into oblivion.
H8 LED and Xenon headlight for that reason.
halogen, even if set to high was fine on the eyes. led tho..... attempt murder on a backroad at night.
Nice unit, I have seen the slide on feature on some standard UK bayonet light drop ceiling roses, although executed somewhat more robustly.
Downside is the hospital white colour temperature - would be useful if it were available in a warmer white .
Looks like s RIP off of the klik's system I have standerdised our factory on.
Super Cool. Thanks Big Clive. Love the LED tester. I got one similar that displays current as well.
I was wondering what the current was. Time to upgrade Clive. 😊
I have a Celling Fan too and when the Ceramic Heater is on too it makes the room Warmer :)
I’ve got one of these in my shed and it is actually quite good
The 4B24C on the printing hints the configuration!
We have a similar light (round case, slide-on mounting plate) in our bathroom. IIRC it outputs something like 3k lumen, so VERY bright, with a "daylight white" color temp. Replaced a neon tube that was a hard-to-get length (IIRC ~100cm, while common lengths around here are 120 and 150) and only produced a fraction of the light output while needing more power.
Will have to see how long the LED panel will last, but so far it already survived a few years and hasn't roasted itself (yet).
i love how you went caffeine free and switched capacitor discharge.
Thanks Clive, the mounting method is handy as you just need to replace the housing. They will be ideal for my shed as it is big and the two tubes currently used do leave dim areas. In the UK on Ebay it costs £8.50 & £3.50 postage, there could be other listings elsewhere. Good posting mate 👍
Nice that they omitted the stuff that stops it going on fire in case of failure, but I guess that just adds "character"... :P
(and as a random aside, I bought a little cheap (£2.50) battery powered lamp thing from Poundland yesterday cos it looks neat, 6x LEDs running in parallel directly off 3x AAA cells, touched the LEDs while they were lit and ouch, they get hot!!! Still, I have complete conversion modification plans afoot, so, no bother!)
The fuse is the leads to the fitting, they are that thin fusible wire so beloved by the PRC manufacturers, solderable, but also only capable of handling 200ma of current as well.
@@SeanBZA The PRC are also making quality stuff, like iphones. The problem is "race to the bottom" or more generally capitalism.
Thank you again Clive I am trying to get a power bank river max to be able to run my fridge freezer and both my freezers during a black out so having a lower light system will be nice. Jim from Scotland
My wife's aunt and her husband are both lawyers. They're also both lovely people, and we'd be sad if either one suddenly and randomly died.
But despite all that, given the balance of probabilities, I still think pushing the "FUN button" is a worthwhile risk to take.
That's a neat no-fuss mounting system.
It's hard to tell, but it looks like it is recessed and so it possibly would not slide on if you screwed the adapter to the ceiling first?
Clive, you could add a Variable transformer to your testing regimen to see how low of a voltage your DUT will operate. It would be cool for us here in the States to see if the things you test work on 120 volts. Great videos, love your stuff.😄
He could just use a 2:1 step down transformer. But seem devices might also be sensitive to the line frequency differences: 50Hz vs 60 Hz
I like it with the modification of course 😊 thanks Clive
Instead of a proper red filter for that LED tester display, try a piece of kapton tape. Its orangey tint makes it work surprisingly well on red 7-segment displays and you don’t have to muck about with making room for the filter in the case. Cheap and effective.
That's a good idea.
Oooh, much appreciated, the analysis!
I just recently got a whole bunch of those for renovations... bigger version though. Some of the square ones, some round ones, and a couple that can be controlled by remote for dimming, color temp, and whatnot. Mostly not for myself, new apartment for rental. Installed it myself, kind of a hassle. xD But way easier than most other options I guess.
Didn't know about that adapter though... not that I was going to use it, but interesting to know nonetheless.
Got a few extras exactly because of the ease to replace them. Also because they are fairly well enclosed, to this means no bugs to clean up.
I made an effort back when I moved to my place to put sockets all over so that I could replace LED bulbs easily, but these days the LED panels are kinda winning out. Just because if you are going to go all bulbs, you kinda also have to invest on more expensive luminaires to make it look fancy. xD
o/
13:52 Odd that the power supply is rated for voltage starting at 165 VAC
I like the brass screwdriver, far nicer than some of the plastic monstrosities available for 4mm hex bits
That lamp adapter for a plug-in device is something I'd never thought could exist, but I guess it makes sense. Now I'm imagining putting that on a charger for a phone or something and making my friends do a double take as I hand them a phone charger connected to the socket in my desk lamp where the bulb should be.
In the US bulb socket to (ungrounded) outlet adapters are commonly available at home improvement stores. There are also common kits that screw into can light sockets and provide an LED panel that mount directly to the ceiling.
I’m using these kinda setup on my ceiling lights for the attic and it’s the same mechanism just that mine has a fan built in that comes with a remote to control it. Essentially a ceiling fan but connected to an E27 screw on type. Puts out decent enough air in a tiny space
4:18 every time you use a finger to check for charge in a cap i have to look away 😆
"I like shocks when i know that i'm getting them" >> Unique, profound and unforgettable element of character no less.
I've used the smaller 4 watt puck shaped one of these as a small area light in a storage area for short duration use.
I used lighting sockets in domestic and commercial jobs because they make decorating ( in domestic installs) and servicing ( in commercial situations) much quicker and easier. I think the ones I use are Legrand and don't have exposed metalwork when connecting and disconnecting.
For some mysterious reason the "if I applied more force" reminded me of Pratchett's Ankh-Morpork. Clive Morforce ;)
"Is the capacitor still charged ?" Sticks finger straight across the cap
6:27 Channeling your inner Electroboom?
Please advise where I can get one of those lamps in the US. I really like it for my bathroom.
Sources will vary between countries. AliExpress will probably have them.
hey clive, have you ever considered using slow-mo on a smartphone to test how well these various mains powered leds are smoothing the AC->DC in terms of flickering? flicker is my main attribute I am curious about in LED products, and you really cant get a good sense of it using a normal camera. love your vids thanks
Nice looking light. I like the color too, daylight LEDs are kind of hard to find because everyone wants soft white or warm white.
@10:00, get ready to howl when Clive hits the 'fun' button on the Hopi's little brother! I did!
Love the video. The box says Voltage 85-265V 50/60Hz
Wow 18 watts rating at 17 actually good labeling still no ground :(
Happy thanksgiving to all of you Americans out there
Its an all-plastic enclosure, earth/ground is unnecessary.
3:09 How were you able to determine that the LED's were wired in pairs of 4 just by looking at them?
The tracks are faintly visible when viewed at an angle.
These are great until you have an uneven ceiling, then they're a nightmare to locate.
We have 2 in the kitchen. Superb bright and have lasted years.
Awesome Video Big Clive👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
With your LED tester, you can colour in each segment with a red felt pen. This will increase the contrast without going to the trouble of fitting a physical red filter.
I've been using a similar light, just like the on you showed, for the last 18 months, in my kitchen, a 10 watt one. I replace an old 4 ft batten . With no problems whatsoever. What I did was to modify it, but installing a smart switch so I could use it with Amazon Alexa. It's great when you got your hands full like carrying mugs of tea. You can use you voice to turn the light on and off, plus you can still use the wall switch for those that are still stuck in the 20th century or before., now I'm using 10 watts of power instead of 36 watts
Ha! you think you are cleaver, I sit a garden solar light on my windowsill and it light the hall and stars to save me even putting the main lights on :-)
@@BillboBaggins-j5w haha so funny, I took one of those £1 spike lights apart, lengthened the leads so the solar panel is now taped to my very small kitchen window and the led sits on the shelf above it. Didn't work very well though as it only lasts a short time in winter and doesn't really provide that much light. As a proof of concept though I kind of like it.
@madmaveric
More Solar Panels and Batteries.
I like to buy 2 or 3 units, and use the extra Panels and Batteries to cover me in power outages, also.
IR detection helps keep the batteries charged longer.
Use NiMH batteries.
@@snakezdewiggle6084 That was what I was thinking as well. Maybe 2/3 lights (the single led isn't really enough) and 5 or 6 panels. The cheap one I got didn't have IR on it either (just daylight sensor). I've started to think I should just buy the parts and build it myself though now lol. Or maybe get one of the bigger ones rather than the cheapest garden path lights type lol
@@madmaveric I think someone should design a solar light strip that fits to your windows. On the outside it takes the light and charges a battery on the inside that power a light inside. If you had one on each window most homes wouldn't need the grid for lighting.
It doesn't look like you could slide the light on after screwing the adapter to the ceiling due to it being recessed in the housing?
Anyone have a link to one that is round, and has the edison screw in type and USA 120Volt? Looked around on Amazon and did not find one. Thanks.
Kind of wondering what happened to the Hopi meter
Still here.
Clive has explained it many times.....the branded Hopi is not accurate at low current levels. The new one reads all the way down to almost zero current levels.
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
Through hole resistors.
I'm betting the factory gets circuit boards with surface mount type in a couple of power levels and some without the surface mount so they can solder in what they need at the moment.
due to camera strobe effect the led super tester showed all 7 segments as 8 throughout. otherwise good reverse video as usual.
what does the FUN button do
Initiates self destruct, 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 -1 🤯
It causes random lawyers to explode.
These type of lights are handy if you want to install LED downlighters in a building with a flat roof where it would be almost impossible to install can style lights due to lack of room above the ceiling
I was curious before the mod if you measured the temperature of the board after it had been on for a bit. 17W over that area probably isn't too harsh.
Oops already filled my house with them, been using the round version for nearly a decade now
That's a neat idea for the mounting system, but...what does the mount attach to? It's possible my sense of scale is off, but that doesn't appear to be large enough to cover a J-Box, and it ships with bare wires, not terminated with a wall plug... Very confuse!
You said (and drawn) 4 LED's in parallel times 24, but you've drawn them in series 😊
Basically it's 24 parallel groups of 4 LED's in series
"Let's open this", tis the season after all.
Hmm, but its always "the season' at your place.😉😆
Plenty of room in this one for a Charger and Battery(s), IR detection etc.
Hi Clive it's been a bit of a long time since we had a decent explosion or fire 😁😁
Handy light unit, I wonder if it is available in different colour temps? 6500K would be more suited to outdoor use really.
It IS interesting that changing those resistors can change the wattage of the led lamp, but is there a practical reason to do so? Will they "live" longer while still giving most of the original light or are there other benefits to do this hack? I like modding stuff just as much as most nerds but I also like a good/practical reason to do so. Every change comes with a bit of risk I just wonder what the reward is for taking it.
They last a lot longer at the cost of some intensity.
Teardown and reverse engineer the Hopi/AnTai meters, hacks and mods😉... It seems the light output remained relatively the same after removing the 15ohm resister and then adding a 2.2ohm, while the wattage was reduced by realistically half. Of course my screen could have something to do with the observation.. Thanks Clive.
Fitted one of these to a mates house last year, I thought it was a very novel type fitting
What's with the voltage? It won't work in the US. Who uses 165volt mains?
I've been offline for a few months, but the last few videos I see the "AnTai" meter instead of the classic Hopi. What happened to the hopi?
Hopi is fine. The Antai is better at lower loads.
The AnTai has a fun button!!!
BC, when you use your measuring "thingy", how (and what) is the power factor arrived at?? Sorry but I'm more mechanical than Sparky 😉👌
It compares the voltage and current waveforms. The closer they are the better the power factor.
A bit like the Klick lighting system
Agreed,
These aren't already bad at all, it seems; yet, I foresee some potential for such connectors to be adopted/reengineered further by other parties in the market.
I wonder what the I.P. rating is ? Is it suitable for bathrooms ?
I'd not use it in a wet area.
You didn't use it in this upload I think, but where can I get one of those sliding utility knives you use?
As always; excellent channel!
That one is a giaco maker knife.
we have that type light in our house, we found out the electrician didn't do well getting the bases straight (buy round ones). I've had to adjust all the square ones so they look better. It's really handy to pop off when painting the ceiling and replacing one when it dies.
Hmm, I liked that. Hackable as well. Could be useful.
where is the HOPI ? Did I miss some magic smoke expulsion ?
It's still here.
is the"o"in the DP95O2AB actually an "oh" or a zero?
I believe it is a zero.
The shape of the PCB, narrowing slightly at the AC end, makes me think it was meant to fit inside a light bulb base.
Awesome mate
You are so good.
You know things have gone downhill when not only does the picture on the website not line up with the product, but neither does the one on the box it is physically sitting in 🤣
Is cool phosphor inexpensive compared to warmer phosphor ? I do not find that whiter than white to my liking!
Good video sir
The colour choice is often a regional thing. People in cold countries prefer warm light.
I'm a 5000K man myself. Photographic white point(ish).
Just been looking for the magic tester you have but without success. Have AnTai ATX9801 ceased manufacture?
It seems to keep changing name.
Ripped off! no bursting into flames....
Aluminium? Don't you mean Aluminum ol boy? 😄 ❤
I imagine when sliding the light onto the fitting, the light will be pretty flush with the ceiling.
Not only making sure you can't touch any bare contacts, but also making it bloody difficult to line up.
When I test stuff like that, I use a variable resistor (pot) to determine the best level. Put one in permanently in that lamp and it becomes adjustable.
Voltages... While it's true that the voltage across the LED panel is around 65 volts or so, the positive side of the panel swings from just above mains neutral (when mains live goes negative) to around 330 volts DC above mains neutral (when mains live goes poitive) due to the behaviour of the bridge rectifier. That could give someone a nasty jolt if they were only anticipating around 65 volts...
Do you have a link to it, please Clive
I got this one a while back. Not sure which of the sellers it came from.
I was called out to a suspect faulty one of those but found it had just slid off the connection on the ceiling. I couldn’t bring myself to charge for the call out fee.
Enlightening!
A potentiometer would be great for a dimmer!
I was hoping for a " and then it exploded ! " LOL
Sorry Off Topic, but i like to make my own Laptop Cooling stand using 2 120mm (12V) PC cooling fans. Does that mean i will have to supply 24V?
No. They would be wired in parallel on a single 12V supply.
Press that f%%king FUN button please Clive 😀
10:00 - Deer Lorde, man! And you pressed it only ONCE?! {canned-meat} that thing!