POWERHAUS VW Dyno Run First Start Up with Engine Options & Valve Adjust
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Brand New Powerhaus VW 2110cc Aircooled Turnkey Engine going through First start procedures, Valve adjustment & Dyno run.
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Located in Torrance, California
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Im liking this distributor system
This is the Magna Spark Billet HEI Distributor from @cbperformance
I never tire of that sound when they’re on the dyno!!
Special Place in My Heart for this Shop and the Man,
You Rock “Jonny5”
Just to stop and think about those early days in the beginning, so many friends and memories that have molded us into what we’re doing today, much love and respect to you and the entire VW community that has rooted us on from day 1
Nice vid John. Your engines always sound healthy. I hope one day I can purchase an engine from you.
Literally humming. Love it. So nice
Thanks so much!
Love this video. Love watching masters at there craft. This guy is legit.
Nice video! A beautiful machine. I love how clean you work. Every drop of oil is wiped away immediately, every streak is polished.
Thank you for the kind words
Damn what a fine engine! I need to find VW Bus and get one of your engines! Sweet
Hi John , great work. I noticed you did the carbs at the beginning with out taking the linkage off, I always thought you discontent the linkage first ,then do the carbs and then balance up to each other .
Your absolutely right, if Bud from Weber saw me do that, he'd of slapped my hands lol.
When I set these carburetors up, I back off the screws from the throttle stops and then open each side 2 full turns and then connect the linkage so they open identically, this gets me in very close range and as long as I only bring the idle down 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each side at a time, I can get away with straightening out the linkage rods, Bud does this to but it's one of those do as I say not as I do moments lol.
A shout out to Powerhausvw. Watch your videos. How long have you guys been in business?
Thank you, much appreciated, Powerhaus started in 1977, I purchased it in 1997
John
You guys make some awesome engines 🤙🏼
Thank you!
You don't have to turn the motor over more than once to check the valve clearances .
After checking No1 inlet and exhaust , you can also do No 2 inlet ( so you will have done the back 3 ( towards back of the engine ) clearances .
Then on the other side you can do the No 4 exhaust clearance ( front one )
Then turn the engine over once back to the TDC mark .
Then you can do the No 2 exhaust clearance and then the No 4 inlet and both No 3 inlet and exhaust .
So effectively you do the back 3 on the 1 & 2 side and the front 1 on the 3 & 4 side .
Turn over once
Then do front one on 1 & 2 side them back 3 on 3 & 4 side .
Much easier and quicker and less confusing with having to keep turning the motor over .
Have a look at the lobe orientation with the cam in the case when you build one and all will be clear.
I know there’s a few different ways to adjust valves, I’ve experimented in the past but adjusting intake & exhaust valves on each 1,4,3,2 is probably the safest & easiest way for our customers to do them and not make any mistakes
@@powerhausvw
Yeah , it doesn't matter , i just thought that the quicker with less engine turning , the more consistent the adjustment.
Keep up the good work , great job on all the clips , very inspirational
So I guess I’m waisting my time with feeler gauges I should just make sure the push rods and the caps can spin? I’d be worried it would hold the valve open at temperature but I guess I could do a compression test to figure that out
if you have aluminum pushrods, they are usually set at 004-.006 when cold, but we've even set them at 0 lash and have had no issues. Aluminum pushrods will expand a little bit more than chromoly but not as much as the complete engine so as the engine warms up and expands, pushrods will have more lash than when cold, this is why chromoly pushrods tend to be a bit lowder as they do not expand as much as the aluminum.
Nice nice
As cbperformance
Engine same quality😍👍
Awesome!
Thanks!
prefilter bag keep moisture out of the combustion chamber/engine. higher revs more power with water removed from air intake.
I noticed you were not using a feeler guage. How do you adjust then?
I go over it right about here in this clip ruclips.net/video/VvYdqLv5U0g/видео.html
I'm curious. What do you do during assembly for the main bearing, rod bearing and cam bearing clearances? Do you find a large variance in the bearings, and have to go through a lot of bearing to get the bearing clearances correct?
We’ve made special tools & jigs to keep an eye on these type things and yes we have boxes of extra bearings
@@powerhausvw That's what I figured. Thanks for the reply.
I just acquired an MSD ignition with a 6A L box MSD distributor wires excetera what's a good plug gap?? I know it's hard to say probably but it's on a thick wall 1835 with CB heads CB fuel injection, I love all the builds you do they're the best👍🤘✌ I live near Modesto California it gets in the triple digits if that helps narrow it down😁
Thank you,
We run .025 spark plug gap but every everyone has there own ideas and set-up so make sure you set yours up accordingly or to your builders specs.
Does anyone know if a Gene Berg traction bar will clear the sidewinder exhaust/muffler? Need to know before purchase, thanks.
my dream
Do you also use ratio rockers and what ratio thanks
Slack command? Good morning .
Well you know it’s about the bang for the buck and everyone has a different buck
Are the Chinese 44 Webber ok thanks
Not sure, we only run Genuine Weber’s
Don’t you use hydraulic lifters