How to Actually Improve Accuracy of the TC1 Multi-Function Tester with Calibration Tips
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2021
- I was having a hard time improving the accuracy of my new TC1 Multi-Function tester. I managed to get much better readings once I ditched the included bent-metal calibration jumper and used normal wires.
Hopefully this helps you to use and calibrate your component tester. If it helps you out, please subscribe, or let me know!
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What you need to do is wipe down the 3 pin thingy (or the probes) with alcohol to get rid of any oil residue it may still have from being fabbed. Just as that helps with test lead accuracy, it helps this thing calibrate. I almost gave up on these things until I tried that and it immediately made a difference of about 15% more accurate.
Great vid, thanks!
That plastic on there was really aggravating my OCD! 😋
Yeah, seriously. What's the point of that? So it will retain it's $7 value?
Mine is on the way, and the first thing I saw was that pin header nonsense and I knew to ditch it. Make what you showed with a small jumper between the three pins is the best way.
Merci pour l'astuce! Super!
If you leave the test strip unbent, you will find that the spacing is correct to plug into every other pin (ie 1 - 3 - 2)
My unit came with no instructions. I was totally unaware of this calibration step. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
I replaced the 3 hook-probe leads with a slightly heavier and longer version of them, and I haven't had any issues with accuracy, but I do always calibrate it with those same leads. Its definitely a quick and handy low priced tool for general ID and test of most components.
I'm glad it's working out for you 😀
Thank you fur the recommendation to repeat self-calibration over 20 times, that worked!
Glad it helped!
@@SparkY0 I have LCR-T7 version, but the behavior is same
@GreyWolfUA which behavior?
@@SparkY0 device behavior, mine is almost same as yours
I don't think you need to bend the self test probe just to fit it in the first 1-2-3 ports. The way I do it is to put the #1 pin in the first #2 port and then use the 1 & 3 ports directly to the right. The spacing is perfect doing it that way. Mine calibrates fine and seems to be measuring with acceptable accuracy (for a cheap tool).
That's a good point! I'll try that next time
I suspect the resistance or capacitance of the leads could affect the calibration. Maybe solder the 3-prong connector instead? Perhaps too calibrate with it powered by USB or not powered by USB and stay with that. Also use with the same battery supply voltage.
The unit is really versatile at the expense of being accurate. Even so I am pleased with the results of this unit.
Great !!! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thank you!
I had no idea what the heck that piece of metal was. I have been using mine and the stuff I am testing has been within tolerance so I assume it was already pretty close.
I was thinking about getting back into building pedals again, and thought this could be a useful tool. Thanks for the calibration tip. I am curious, though, about the accessory that you have on the multimeter, essentially allowing you to plug components into it without using the probes. Did that come with your multimeter, or was it an after-market acquisition? I've tried searching for something like that, and I'm coming up empty.
That came with the multimeter. It also came with a temperature probe.
AstroAI Digital Multimeter www.amazon.com/dp/B071JL6LLL
(Not an affiliate link)
Thanks for the quick reply.
teşekkürler
rica ederim
This video really helps as I had reference capacitor with fixed value but after this calibration suggestion it works accurate as can be.
lol, i only found out about self test when i threw in a stuffed FET. wtf? lets try that again...
then i started getting really awesome diode reverse voltages like -43522267mV...
actually, at the moment im wondering about the zener side of it...
The meters are not dead on for caps. There is a 10 or 20 percent leeway. No capacitor is exactly as 8t reads in other words..
Good tiching karte hai 👌👍👌👌👌👍👌👌👌👍👌👌👌👍
धन्यवाद!
But what is the IR port on the device for ? 🤔😕
It's an IR decoder. You can point a TV remote at it and it will tell you the UserCode and DataCode. Not every remote works with it though. My understanding is it decodes the Hitachi IR format, which should be relatively common. It works with the remote for my Roku TV, but not my sound bar.
@@SparkY0 Cool ! 😲🤔
Thanks ! 😇🖒
Your "bent piece of metal" is three DuPont pins on their carrier. But being an electronics guy, you knew that, right?
Yep.
But what it's called isn't important. What's important is the fact those pins and carrier are made by bending a piece of metal.
Just got a t7-h and it doesn’t go into self test mode
It should be the same procedure of shorting 1, 2, & 3 then pressing start. so I'm not sure the issue.
same problem here. Any solution? Or may this be a fault?
How to buy
There are many sellers on Amazon and eBay. This is where I bought mine:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08K38XP8G
Remove the plastic protector ffs.
But then what will protect the plastic?
@@SparkY0 Are you kidding? Treating it properly might be a solution Besides you could drag it behind a horse for a week before the plastic got as bad as having to view things through that loose film. C'mon dude. The thing has very resilient plastic over the screen. Mine is 4 years old and there is still not a scratch on it.
To answer your question: yes.