Hi Brian ....again an annotation. the RED-marked shutter speeds indicate those which are flash-synchronized! The SINGLEX nicely goes up to 1/125s synchronizing electronic-flashlights as well as the old BULB-flashes. Such very fast flash-sync-speeds were amazing with focal-plane-shutters in 1967 and another effort of its COPAL-shutter. Kind regards from Germany Klaus Rickert
Hi Brian, thanks a lot for this well done SINGLEX review! Just one thing in addition as far as its battery (Malleroy PX625) is concerned! The SINGLEX has automatic voltage control build in (wheatstone bridge circuit), which was amazing in 1967!!! Olympus for instance did not care about this nice feature. So did not many other much shinier manufacturer than RICOH. This means, that all Siglexes can be powered today with the much easier available 1,5V battery cells with absolutely reliable and exact metering all over the complete battery-life. This also applies for its successor the RICOH TLS 401. You can either use the available PX 625A (V 625U) Cells or .... even cheaper .... an LR44 cell with an O-ring as a spacer towards the camera's battery housing .... which I do. Kind Regards from Germany Klaus Rickert
My first camera was an Ikonta 4.5x6 with 3.5 lens. I used a lot going to school at Ciak in Rome italy getting 2 diplomas in photography and cinematografy. My fater was a photographer and i learned a lot from him. Before came to Canada i was a cameraman for over 10 years working in the special effect on a optical printer. In the seventies I bought a yascika tlx its that I still use and later got a Sears tls that I still have. I’m very familiar with analogic cameras,still have a dark room in my basement 2 enlargers 1 6x9 and 1 36mm
That’s the sound the timer makes. The functional color difference with the shutter speed markings delineates the maximum sync speed of 125. Also there is a 1.35v zinc air battery designed to replace the mercury cell. It’s sold by a company called Wein. In my opinion this has always been a highly underrated camera. Everyone wants a k1000, but these have better sync speed, DOF preview, and a timer. They’re reliably much cheaper than a used k1000.
Its ironic that you released this video and I have the exact camera sitting on my desk for CLA (serial number in 5s) but the same camera nonetheless. I'm amazed at how tight and robust this camera is- what a sleeper. Why people chase the "name brand" favorites and no just use one of these with a nice lens is beyond me. These are wonderful, well built cameras.
Anyone who desires a self-timer but doesn't trust the on-camera one, (or it's broken) can use an Auto-Knips device which, like the remote shutter cable, simply screws into the shutter release screw hole. They were present on the ebay market a decade ago for pennies. Still plenty around, but prices have gone up, but still not extortionate. The Auto-Knips were for a previous generation of 30s, 40, 50s folders that didn't have a self-timer that could be relied upon, and some had none at all.
I bought a new one when I was in high school. I think the price was between $125 - $150 USD. Less than major cameras like Canon, Pentax, and Nikon. The major selling point for me was the very accurate Copal metal bladed shutter, which was highly rated by camera magazines at the time. The stopped down metering worked fine, even for sports photography.
I got a black paint Sears TLS just like this with the 55 1.4 and its my favorite camera for shooting slide film. Very accurate shutter and the patina on mine is beautiful
Nicely done. In regards to cable releases, I have two remarks. You can still get brand new cable releases, so you are not limited to second hand ones, which can be quite worn and prone to breaking. That is a good thing, because if you want to use bulb mode (and the slow shutter speeds), you should use a tripod and cable release to avoid camera shake. Most cable releases even have a lock on them (like the one in the video), so that you can keep the shutter open for long exposures without having to hold it open manually. I guess the lock is mostly practical for things like astrophotography, where you might want to keep the shutter open for a very long time.
I have a Prinzflex reflex sold by Dixons chain in UK looks like the one you have..... I. took the bottom plate off too and just gently lubed the cogs being careful to avoid touching the Copal square shutter...very mechanical apart from light meter but quite a good camera for 35mm film...
One of the key identifying features of these is the front mounted shutter dial. They were rebranded a lot. If it has a front shutter dial… it’s probably a Ricoh singlex of some flavor.
Your Prinzflex was manufactured by Chinon which licensed the design to Ricoh and later Cosina. There were quite a few private label versions of this design.
I reveal you a secret. The schutter spead numbers are Red for one reason,to tell you that when you use the flash, those are the speads that you can use becouse the flash is sencronaised with the aperture. I am a professional with a ltle of experince that not to many have. My 80 years are worth samthing I think. ( grown up with analogic cameras)
If you have the light meter on and then fire the shutter, does the switch go back down to open the aperture? I'm thinking about getting one of these, but I'm not a big fan of having to turn the light meter on and off myself for every shot. If I just have to turn it on for every shot, that's okay.
Hi Brian ....again an annotation.
the RED-marked shutter speeds indicate those which are flash-synchronized! The SINGLEX nicely goes up to 1/125s synchronizing electronic-flashlights as well as the old BULB-flashes.
Such very fast flash-sync-speeds were amazing with focal-plane-shutters in 1967 and another effort of its COPAL-shutter.
Kind regards from Germany
Klaus Rickert
Hi Brian,
thanks a lot for this well done SINGLEX review! Just one thing in addition as far as its battery (Malleroy PX625) is concerned!
The SINGLEX has automatic voltage control build in (wheatstone bridge circuit), which was amazing in 1967!!! Olympus for instance did not care about this nice feature. So did not many other much shinier manufacturer than RICOH.
This means, that all Siglexes can be powered today with the much easier available 1,5V battery cells with absolutely reliable and exact metering all over the complete battery-life.
This also applies for its successor the RICOH TLS 401.
You can either use the available PX 625A (V 625U) Cells or .... even cheaper .... an LR44 cell with an O-ring as a spacer towards the camera's battery housing .... which I do.
Kind Regards from Germany
Klaus Rickert
That's very useful to know. Thank you.
My first camera was an Ikonta 4.5x6 with 3.5 lens. I used a lot going to school at Ciak in Rome italy getting 2 diplomas in photography and cinematografy. My fater was a photographer and i learned a lot from him. Before came to Canada i was a cameraman for over 10 years working in the special effect on a optical printer. In the seventies I bought a yascika tlx its that I still use and later got a Sears tls that I still have. I’m very familiar with analogic cameras,still have a dark room in my basement 2 enlargers 1 6x9 and 1 36mm
Thank you!! I inherited a Richo TLS 401 and was so glad to see your videos!!
I have two of these Ricoh singlex tls in beautiful condition.great photo show. Gary.
That’s the sound the timer makes. The functional color difference with the shutter speed markings delineates the maximum sync speed of 125. Also there is a 1.35v zinc air battery designed to replace the mercury cell. It’s sold by a company called Wein.
In my opinion this has always been a highly underrated camera. Everyone wants a k1000, but these have better sync speed, DOF preview, and a timer. They’re reliably much cheaper than a used k1000.
Yes, I agree that these cameras are a far better choice than a K1000, which is horribly overpriced in today's secondhand market.
Its ironic that you released this video and I have the exact camera sitting on my desk for CLA (serial number in 5s) but the same camera nonetheless. I'm amazed at how tight and robust this camera is- what a sleeper. Why people chase the "name brand" favorites and no just use one of these with a nice lens is beyond me. These are wonderful, well built cameras.
I agree one hundred percent. People need to know there are still some good, solid sleepers left in the hunt for a reliable film camera.
My fist serious camera in 1999! Heavy as a tank but dragged it on trips like Thailand.
Thanks for sharing this nice review. I just bought one and it’s very useful watching your video.
Even though this video is about a specific camera, it covers so much about operating a 35mm camera. Well done!
Anyone who desires a self-timer but doesn't trust the on-camera one, (or it's broken) can use an Auto-Knips device which, like the remote shutter cable, simply screws into the shutter release screw hole. They were present on the ebay market a decade ago for pennies. Still plenty around, but prices have gone up, but still not extortionate.
The Auto-Knips were for a previous generation of 30s, 40, 50s folders that didn't have a self-timer that could be relied upon, and some had none at all.
I bought a new one when I was in high school. I think the price was between $125 - $150 USD. Less than major cameras like Canon, Pentax, and Nikon. The major selling point for me was the very accurate Copal metal bladed shutter, which was highly rated by camera magazines at the time. The stopped down metering worked fine, even for sports photography.
Yes, I'm a big fan of the Copal Square shutter. It's one of the reasons I took a chance on this camera.
I got a black paint Sears TLS just like this with the 55 1.4 and its my favorite camera for shooting slide film. Very accurate shutter and the patina on mine is beautiful
Nicely done.
In regards to cable releases, I have two remarks.
You can still get brand new cable releases, so you are not limited to second hand ones, which can be quite worn and prone to breaking.
That is a good thing, because if you want to use bulb mode (and the slow shutter speeds), you should use a tripod and cable release to avoid camera shake. Most cable releases even have a lock on them (like the one in the video), so that you can keep the shutter open for long exposures without having to hold it open manually. I guess the lock is mostly practical for things like astrophotography, where you might want to keep the shutter open for a very long time.
I didn't even bother to check if new cable releases are still available. That's good to know.
Colour on the speed dial is to show what times can be used when using flash.....
My first camera. I got it Dec. 7 1972; my 13th birthday.
I have a Prinzflex reflex sold by Dixons chain in UK looks like the one you have.....
I. took the bottom plate off too and just gently lubed the cogs being careful to avoid touching the Copal square shutter...very mechanical apart from light meter but quite a good camera for 35mm film...
One of the key identifying features of these is the front mounted shutter dial. They were rebranded a lot. If it has a front shutter dial… it’s probably a Ricoh singlex of some flavor.
Your Prinzflex was manufactured by Chinon which licensed the design to Ricoh and later Cosina. There were quite a few private label versions of this design.
I reveal you a secret. The schutter spead numbers are Red for one reason,to tell you that when you use the flash, those are the speads that you can use becouse the flash is sencronaised with the aperture. I am a professional with a ltle of experince that not to many have. My 80 years are worth samthing I think. ( grown up with analogic cameras)
If you have the light meter on and then fire the shutter, does the switch go back down to open the aperture?
I'm thinking about getting one of these, but I'm not a big fan of having to turn the light meter on and off myself for every shot. If I just have to turn it on for every shot, that's okay.
Good camera for a lefty, my Nikons love poking me in the right eye.
Yes, that's a common complaint about the Nikon FM/FE series.