Horse butts are great for lining straps, belts, halters and bridles. Horse leather is more resistant to damage from sweat, urine and manure, than cow leather. It makes good durable tack for use in a stockyard or sorting pens. I have used the 9+ oz for rear cinches, rear cinch billets, breast collars, and breast collar straps. I usually line these rear cinches with some 5-7 oz horse butt as the 9+oz seems just a little light alone. Items made from horse butts will last a long time if you warm them up in an oven (200 degrees or less and put them in warmed up oil with a bit of bees wax and melted paraffin wax mixed together.) Comes out similar to harness leather but a bit firmer with less stretch to it. I have not liked the way it tools though. Of course, this does not mean it will not crack if not cleaned and cared for properly as with any tack items. Prior to being oiled and waxed, in it's raw veg tan state, like any veg tan leather it will dry out and crack if stored in a place that gets too warm.
Pattern pack plea: I've been wanting patterns for repeating decorative knife cuts like for belt liners, saddle cantles, corners, etc. I really prefer the clean look of these scrolling cuts to full-tooled floral patterns. I'd buy those!
Shipment has not arrived in NB yet ... no worries ... probably a seasonal delay. Looking forward to receiving it 🌺 Thank you and your lovely Bride for working so hard to make this happen for us.
Those horse butts make great hi end razor strops. In the day they were all made outta hOrse hide. A strip of heavy canvas on the back (seperate) creates a wonderful product
I believe ur talking about shell cordovan, those horse strips are relatively cheap so it be a hard sell if you charge them at a high price. Theyre cheaper per sqft than cow.
One thing that i would suggest is that the belt template should be in 2 pieces to put together to make one. it might save on shipping and also it may not break due to shipping mishaps
I will tell you that horse butt is horrible for holsters. It does not wet form well, and is very rigid. It might be good for knife sheaths and straps. I bought a piece from Horween about 7 years ago, and never ordered it again.
I bet! I have never tried that; horse butt is hard to form but works really well for tack items that do not require compound curves. I have heard it can work well for boot makers, but I have no experience with that.
Idk why they are called horse butts ive only heard them called horse fronts. The rear end is square in shape and very firm(should tool and form nicely) i own a horse rump with the shell still intact and part of the hide, its as dense as any cow leather ive tooled on. But horse front is a different cut altogether, and is known for being spongy in texture which would explain the poor outcome you speak of. I believe who ever sold Don(or you) that horse hide is mistakenly calling them a butt when they actually are really a front.
Really? I am surprised by this. That has not been my experience, but then I warm the tack item and oil mixed with a bit of melted bees wax and paraffin wax. Just warm enough for the wax to melt and disappear in the oil, no hotter. When allowed to drink in that mix it wears very well, stretches less than cow and stands up to sweat really well. It is more like a harder firmer harness leather when prepared as such. In my experience at least. I have not tried it dry with just a little oil like we do with most veg tan cow though. I've made rear cinches, rear billets and breast collars along with breast collar straps (tugs) with it. I have ordered horse butts and got some substandard, dried out already starting to crack, brittle stuff but that is not the way good quality stuff normally is.
@@edwarnock9884 i believe what you're referring to is actually the rump of the horse, what some people are being sold as a horse butt seems to actually be a horse front. Horse fronts are actually kind of spongy in nature, due to being along the sides of the horse and has little muscle to firm up the leather(think of a the flanky belly cut of cow hide). But a horse butt is nice and firm because a horse uses its hind legs which in turn creates firm leather(think of the shoulders on a cow hide). I think Don is mistaken by calling that a butt when it really is a front, horse butts are square in shape not long and straight. Thats just my opinion however.
Horse butts are great for lining straps, belts, halters and bridles. Horse leather is more resistant to damage from sweat, urine and manure, than cow leather. It makes good durable tack for use in a stockyard or sorting pens. I have used the 9+ oz for rear cinches, rear cinch billets, breast collars, and breast collar straps. I usually line these rear cinches with some 5-7 oz horse butt as the 9+oz seems just a little light alone. Items made from horse butts will last a long time if you warm them up in an oven (200 degrees or less and put them in warmed up oil with a bit of bees wax and melted paraffin wax mixed together.) Comes out similar to harness leather but a bit firmer with less stretch to it.
I have not liked the way it tools though.
Of course, this does not mean it will not crack if not cleaned and cared for properly as with any tack items. Prior to being oiled and waxed, in it's raw veg tan state, like any veg tan leather it will dry out and crack if stored in a place that gets too warm.
Thanks Don!!! Love watching you.
Re: the horse butt strips The grain is really dense and they tool strange. But the ones I've used take dye well and are tough as nails.
Pattern pack plea:
I've been wanting patterns for repeating decorative knife cuts like for belt liners, saddle cantles, corners, etc. I really prefer the clean look of these scrolling cuts to full-tooled floral patterns.
I'd buy those!
Thanks for the videos
Shipment has not arrived in NB yet ... no worries ... probably a seasonal delay.
Looking forward to receiving it 🌺
Thank you and your lovely Bride for working so hard to make this happen for us.
Those horse butts make great hi end razor strops. In the day they were all made outta hOrse hide. A strip of heavy canvas on the back (seperate) creates a wonderful product
I believe ur talking about shell cordovan, those horse strips are relatively cheap so it be a hard sell if you charge them at a high price. Theyre cheaper per sqft than cow.
One thing that i would suggest is that the belt template should be in 2 pieces to put together to make one. it might save on shipping and also it may not break due to shipping mishaps
Hang in there and get those saddles out.
My last projects for the year just went out the door. Woo-hoo
Stand up guy right there
What madness is this that Monday briefings are happening on Friday?!
It would be _aloooot_ more unusual if it was actually posted on a Monday!
This is a normal "Monday Morning Briefing".
lol any day but on a Monday..
I will tell you that horse butt is horrible for holsters. It does not wet form well, and is very rigid. It might be good for knife sheaths and straps. I bought a piece from Horween about 7 years ago, and never ordered it again.
I bet! I have never tried that; horse butt is hard to form but works really well for tack items that do not require compound curves. I have heard it can work well for boot makers, but I have no experience with that.
Idk why they are called horse butts ive only heard them called horse fronts. The rear end is square in shape and very firm(should tool and form nicely) i own a horse rump with the shell still intact and part of the hide, its as dense as any cow leather ive tooled on.
But horse front is a different cut altogether, and is known for being spongy in texture which would explain the poor outcome you speak of. I believe who ever sold Don(or you) that horse hide is mistakenly calling them a butt when they actually are really a front.
When's the next podcast?
Horse butt? Hmm. Maybe saddle straps? They wear out the fastest and you don't want yours to 'break' while you're in the saddle.
Really? I am surprised by this. That has not been my experience, but then I warm the tack item and oil mixed with a bit of melted bees wax and paraffin wax. Just warm enough for the wax to melt and disappear in the oil, no hotter. When allowed to drink in that mix it wears very well, stretches less than cow and stands up to sweat really well. It is more like a harder firmer harness leather when prepared as such. In my experience at least. I have not tried it dry with just a little oil like we do with most veg tan cow though.
I've made rear cinches, rear billets and breast collars along with breast collar straps (tugs) with it.
I have ordered horse butts and got some substandard, dried out already starting to crack, brittle stuff but that is not the way good quality stuff normally is.
@@edwarnock9884 i believe what you're referring to is actually the rump of the horse, what some people are being sold as a horse butt seems to actually be a horse front.
Horse fronts are actually kind of spongy in nature, due to being along the sides of the horse and has little muscle to firm up the leather(think of a the flanky belly cut of cow hide). But a horse butt is nice and firm because a horse uses its hind legs which in turn creates firm leather(think of the shoulders on a cow hide). I think Don is mistaken by calling that a butt when it really is a front, horse butts are square in shape not long and straight.
Thats just my opinion however.
Use the Horse anywhere you would use reg vegtan cow.
I've done sheaths, wallets, edc organizations, journals
Do you tool it? I have never been satisfied with the way it comes out when I tool it. Might be I just haven't tried hard enough yet?