Just finished using BG Dynamic engine cleaner. My oil pressure was stuck at 34 psi and would not fluctuate form there. Have a two stage oil pump that would engage at 3500 rmp. But engine was so sludge up my durango would go into limp mode any time it hit 3500 rpm. Replaced oil pump $1800 and then oil sensor for $650. Neither fixed the problem. Dealership said need to replace motor. Did research and found BG Dynamic and bit the bullet $350.00 for the kit. Ran through the process and like magic my problem was gone. Oil psi now spikes at higher rpms at 97psi. Stuck a camera down the oil fill tube and most of what I could see looks like brand shiny new parts. I can not recommend this product enough. I did the seafood I did the diesel I did transmission fluid. All of which we a waste of time and money. BG saved me from the cost of a new motor. Hope this post finds someone in my position and saves them too.
We used atf in the ford dealership with sludged up crown Vic’s. Police interceptors in particular. 2 quarts mercon and 3 quarts rotella 15w40. Run for an hour at 3k rpm’s and drain. Worked great. Repeat until clean. Maybe there are better products but I know atf works. To each his own!
Old school shade tree mechanic here, ATF was the go to to free up sticking lifters back in the 70 s and the 80s. That's what my high school shop teacher told us and what my dad did as well. We also ran ATF down the intake that was supposed to free up rings as well. Not sure if it worked all that well but that was the opinion at the time. BG products rock!
I've been using 20% conventional ATF in oil changes for years and the inside of all my very high mileage engines are near pristine - it works slowly which makes it safer than breaking a bunch of gunk all at one time. if you're trying to quickly clean something up after neglecting it for years - good luck ...
I've heard it helps with leaky valve seals. Which I've tried and seafoam. I did both to my 93 toyota tercel 4spd. I got the car for free cause someone threw about 800 bucks in parts at it. All that was wrong with it was the prong on the clutch pedal broke off that pushed the safety switch. I ran around beating gears in that car I even raced a few honda civics and beat them cause they didn't know how to drive worth shit.
You're new to the channel, I have been talking about that stuff since they released it and I am running it in 3 of my vehicles and one of them this is the second oil change with it
This old idea is from decades ago when conventional motor oil was extremely low quality with poor detergents (conventional oil today is made from group II, decades ago it was group I). ATF was much higher quality stuff with much better cleaning agents. The standards for oils are MUCH higher than they used to be.
ATF in the fuel of diesels wakes them up a little too. Red ATF is a micro lubricant. ATF cleans piston rings that are carbon fouled or sticking from carbon build up.
I run mine on like 30-40% new oil mixed in the diesel fuel. The timing is a little too far advanced,leading to "part throttle popcorn" , but running a heavy dose of oil clears it up. It's like octane (cetane) boost for your diesel. It even idles about 50-75rpm higher.
I just use amsoil flush every once in a while on my accord with the low friction rings. OCI @4k. Before dropping old oil, i run the flush at idle for 15 minutes. I substituted about 1 quart of MMO till i got the oil control rings un-stuck. I run neither anymore and ive switched to 0w type oil and i havent had the upgraded heads installed. You dont want to be using high detergent flushes all the time. I dont do any flush at all on any of my other vehicles. Obviously this is just at home and not at an actual shop where you are trying to clean an engine that was poorly maintained but like others have said, change your damn oil !
Maybe it helps with less wear and tear, and maybe the damage is done, but i do a little twist on my engine flushes on sludge engines. Fill the crankcase with diesel until its at the top of the oil filler. Then look for anywhere its pouring out and plug it. Come back the next day. Try and turn the crank back and forth a little after pulling the plugs ,cause its gonna be hydrolocked. Crank it for 15-20 seconds to clear the cylinders,and then dump that stuff. Throw some new oil and a filter in, and let it run 10-15mins and dump that and the filter again. Theres enough residual diesel in there on the first refill to act as a flush, so run it unloaded as if youre running it for a flush. Takes a little time, but youre not running it as much and hopefully causing less wear than typical flush jobs. Edit: did i mention it makes a mess all over , especially clearing the cylinders with the starter. Dont even bother trying to be clean, just lay cardboard all over to suck it up ,and also possibly pressure wash off the hood underside from all the spraying 💩
Where do all these fkn bots come from? I too have and still use ATF when the lifters in my high mileage gm engine start complaining. It does clear them out and quieten them down. The best way to ensure a clean engine is to change the damn oil
My dad bought a Ford Galaxy 500 brand new back in 1965 and a month after he bought it, the lifters started tapping pretty good so he took it into the dealer and all they did was change the oil and drop a half a quart of ATF in the engine and it never tapped again after that!…
@@FordBossMe It works greats. Have a 98 Corolla that had stuck piston rings from the 1zzfe oil return holes being to small from the factory getting clogged and the rings sticking. Woman I bought it from neglected it and had sludge everywhere. I have ran it 23k miles since January and now under the valve cover is spotless along with it no longer using a quart every 1000 miles. It uses none now per 5 k oil change
What about using water thru a vacuum line while running. The piston that has a bad head gasket always shiny where the water has been getting in there. Technically risky but shouldn't it work?
In the older carb vehicle you could spray some water at high idle to clean -but now you have sensors and a catalytic converter. = No more steaming your engines.
What about diesel in your oil to use as a flush?…whats your opinion on that?…my uncle is an old head mechanic and I use to help him work in a shop and I watched him do it
BG is good, I tried out Liqui Molly engine flush and it worked. Can't say if it is better than BG I have never used it I change my oil. Only reason I used Liqui Molly was a used truck I got that had sludge build up.
Atf 35 good for stopping rust in your panels if you capnit off with vasoline dont believe me go put a piece of raw metal in a tin and cap it of with vasoline leave it iut back yard for a few months and see what im saying
Engine flush? Empty the oil and fill the engine up with gasoline for two days, empty again and do it again. It takes a lot of oil residue, but it's a long process to do.
So many comments here from unintelligent people that don't make sense. Learn the language & spelling. That is for English speakers as their first & only language..
Just finished using BG Dynamic engine cleaner. My oil pressure was stuck at 34 psi and would not fluctuate form there. Have a two stage oil pump that would engage at 3500 rmp. But engine was so sludge up my durango would go into limp mode any time it hit 3500 rpm. Replaced oil pump $1800 and then oil sensor for $650. Neither fixed the problem. Dealership said need to replace motor. Did research and found BG Dynamic and bit the bullet $350.00 for the kit. Ran through the process and like magic my problem was gone. Oil psi now spikes at higher rpms at 97psi. Stuck a camera down the oil fill tube and most of what I could see looks like brand shiny new parts. I can not recommend this product enough. I did the seafood I did the diesel I did transmission fluid. All of which we a waste of time and money. BG saved me from the cost of a new motor. Hope this post finds someone in my position and saves them too.
BG EPR is an amazing engine flush
We used atf in the ford dealership with sludged up crown Vic’s. Police interceptors in particular. 2 quarts mercon and 3 quarts rotella 15w40. Run for an hour at 3k rpm’s and drain. Worked great. Repeat until clean. Maybe there are better products but I know atf works. To each his own!
I agree with you on this. I tried it. Once that sludge is in there a little atf in the oil ain't gonna do squat.
Old school shade tree mechanic here, ATF was the go to to free up sticking lifters back in the 70 s and the 80s. That's what my high school shop teacher told us and what my dad did as well. We also ran ATF down the intake that was supposed to free up rings as well. Not sure if it worked all that well but that was the opinion at the time. BG products rock!
I've been using 20% conventional ATF in oil changes for years and the inside of all my very high mileage engines are near pristine - it works slowly which makes it safer than breaking a bunch of gunk all at one time. if you're trying to quickly clean something up after neglecting it for years - good luck ...
Again it's not a flush and if you had a sludged up engine which I have shown it will not clean it out
Try the Valvoline Restore+Protect oil, or even a high ash diesel type oil.
Rich is right.
When I wash my hogs in atf or diesel, the bacon tastes a little funny.
Yep, back in the day with old vehicles it worked but made a hell of lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust.
I've heard it helps with leaky valve seals. Which I've tried and seafoam. I did both to my 93 toyota tercel 4spd. I got the car for free cause someone threw about 800 bucks in parts at it. All that was wrong with it was the prong on the clutch pedal broke off that pushed the safety switch. I ran around beating gears in that car I even raced a few honda civics and beat them cause they didn't know how to drive worth shit.
Valvoline has a NEW oil that is meant to clean 100% of the sludge. I JUST last week picked some up. Its called VALVOLINE RESTORE & PROTECT
You're new to the channel, I have been talking about that stuff since they released it and I am running it in 3 of my vehicles and one of them this is the second oil change with it
@@FordBossMeamsoil is far better then any big box store same with motul shaffers redline ect
This old idea is from decades ago when conventional motor oil was extremely low quality with poor detergents (conventional oil today is made from group II, decades ago it was group I). ATF was much higher quality stuff with much better cleaning agents. The standards for oils are MUCH higher than they used to be.
I use k1 kerosene bout a quart for 15 to 20 minutes drain it hot
ATF in the fuel of diesels wakes them up a little too. Red ATF is a micro lubricant. ATF cleans piston rings that are carbon fouled or sticking from carbon build up.
I run mine on like 30-40% new oil mixed in the diesel fuel.
The timing is a little too far advanced,leading to "part throttle popcorn" , but running a heavy dose of oil clears it up.
It's like octane (cetane) boost for your diesel.
It even idles about 50-75rpm higher.
BG EPR & MOA Great Products
I only use Royal Purple now for 10+ years. Keeps the sludge from forming.
I just use amsoil flush every once in a while on my accord with the low friction rings. OCI @4k. Before dropping old oil, i run the flush at idle for 15 minutes. I substituted about 1 quart of MMO till i got the oil control rings un-stuck. I run neither anymore and ive switched to 0w type oil and i havent had the upgraded heads installed. You dont want to be using high detergent flushes all the time.
I dont do any flush at all on any of my other vehicles. Obviously this is just at home and not at an actual shop where you are trying to clean an engine that was poorly maintained but like others have said, change your damn oil !
It's ok....not that great though
@@FordBossMe I will definetely switch to BG in the future if needed. Thanks boss, always a good upload.
If you look into other countries Honda recommends using > 0W oil for your Honda Accord.
0W is a little more fuel efficient.
takes the finish off of the bearings keep transmission fluid in the transmission. BG stuff works.
Maybe it helps with less wear and tear, and maybe the damage is done, but i do a little twist on my engine flushes on sludge engines.
Fill the crankcase with diesel until its at the top of the oil filler.
Then look for anywhere its pouring out and plug it.
Come back the next day.
Try and turn the crank back and forth a little after pulling the plugs ,cause its gonna be hydrolocked.
Crank it for 15-20 seconds to clear the cylinders,and then dump that stuff.
Throw some new oil and a filter in, and let it run 10-15mins and dump that and the filter again.
Theres enough residual diesel in there on the first refill to act as a flush, so run it unloaded as if youre running it for a flush.
Takes a little time, but youre not running it as much and hopefully causing less wear than typical flush jobs.
Edit: did i mention it makes a mess all over , especially clearing the cylinders with the starter.
Dont even bother trying to be clean, just lay cardboard all over to suck it up ,and also possibly pressure wash off the hood underside from all the spraying 💩
Where do all these fkn bots come from? I too have and still use ATF when the lifters in my high mileage gm engine start complaining. It does clear them out and quieten them down. The best way to ensure a clean engine is to change the damn oil
My dad bought a Ford Galaxy 500 brand new back in 1965 and a month after he bought it, the lifters started tapping pretty good so he took it into the dealer and all they did was change the oil and drop a half a quart of ATF in the engine and it never tapped again after that!…
ATF is a low viscosity fluid. That helps with some cleaning, but so does solvent
Good thing we have Valvoline Restore and Protect now. No need for engine flushes anymore
Well we shall see if this is true, I'm running it in 3 vehicles
@@FordBossMe It works greats. Have a 98 Corolla that had stuck piston rings from the 1zzfe oil return holes being to small from the factory getting clogged and the rings sticking. Woman I bought it from neglected it and had sludge everywhere. I have ran it 23k miles since January and now under the valve cover is spotless along with it no longer using a quart every 1000 miles. It uses none now per 5 k oil change
Like the new uniform Rich. Looks like Honda uniform
Thank you.🙏🇺🇸
It all depends on what you are doing.. no need to ever run a harsh cleaner on an older engine
I was thinking to cleans the ATF pour the people in charge into engine
Just be careful using BG, since it is caustic. MMM is my go to.
Run MMO in with oil change
Thanks for sharing, Ford Boss.
How about marvel mystery oil?
What about using water thru a vacuum line while running. The piston that has a bad head gasket always shiny where the water has been getting in there. Technically risky but shouldn't it work?
In the older carb vehicle you could spray some water at high idle to clean -but now you have sensors and a catalytic converter. = No more steaming your engines.
What about amsoil engine flush and liqui moly?
Nahhh
I have a 2015 Silverado 4.3 I’m thinking about putting 15w40 Rotella in it. What do you think would it be ok ?
-Use the Valvoline Restore and Protect. -Helps clean out the carbon and change the oil filter more initially 2-3k miles. Then later 5k etc.
BG is great a product
ATF has detergents in it. Works great.
So does oil
The detergents are not what's doing any cleaning - it's the mineral oil
Stop using the detergents as a talking point
What about diesel in your oil to use as a flush?…whats your opinion on that?…my uncle is an old head mechanic and I use to help him work in a shop and I watched him do it
No
BG is good, I tried out Liqui Molly engine flush and it worked. Can't say if it is better than BG I have never used it I change my oil. Only reason I used Liqui Molly was a used truck I got that had sludge build up.
Atf 35 good for stopping rust in your panels if you capnit off with vasoline dont believe me go put a piece of raw metal in a tin and cap it of with vasoline leave it iut back yard for a few months and see what im saying
LAs Totally Awesome.... But you are gambling if is really dirty
I might try that bg
This only works in older vehicles. Try it in a modern car forget it.
Engine flush? Empty the oil and fill the engine up with gasoline for two days, empty again and do it again. It takes a lot of oil residue, but it's a long process to do.
Transmission oil will do it better than anything else.
Not an educated statement
@@FordBossMe the old type F used to. I haven't had to do that in 30 years though.
It’s good for rust but cleaning I think not
👍🏻
Kerosene will clean up just right.
Rislone!!!!!!!!!
👍
ATF typeF
atf is #10oil
Bg the best
Rich, that person doesn't know what they are talking about.
So Marvel is a better choice
Yes but marvel is a conditioner not a flush....bg epr is the best flush out
So many comments here from unintelligent people that don't make sense.
Learn the language & spelling.
That is for English speakers as their first & only language..