Man that's sweet! R12 machines seem to be the quietest and longest lasting. The more "green" the refrigerant has become, the more systems end up in landfills prematurely.
Ya, I remember some companies trying a new refrigerant recently. Maybe Co2? I can't remember for sure. But the compressors were going bad so often (and costing a fortune) that they went back to R410a. The only advantage I see to "green" refrigerants are when they are used in cars, since accidents release refrigerant into the atmosphere on a regular basis. But in home appliances, they could last decades longer on R12, or even R22. So many less large appliances would fill up scrapyards and landfills that way. And if they are disposed of properly, the refrigerant could be reclaimed. No harm to the environment that way. But I'm sure you know what I mean LOL.
I know the "new" R600A or R32 is a flammable gas basically Propane (R600A or Methane (R32) and the appliances that use it have a warning label on them saying it contains flammable refrigerant. That is a really nice unit Spats Bear and I am glad it went into good hands and is actually going to be used for its intended purpose
Wow, what a find! Sadly, I'd be willing to bet that someone replaced it with a modern piece of junk. And they are. I picked a modern 70 pint rated "Frigidaire" up off the curb, flat on gas as usual. From there I found out it was under a recall that the previous owner must not have known about. So I submitted the paperwork and had a brand new one show up a few weeks later. The humidity sensor is stuck right to the front of the evaporator, so it does a ridiculous amount of short cycling as the perceived humidity level drifts back up. Out of sheer exasperation, I finally set it to run constantly. I'm sure that's highly Energy Star compliant. There's another way they cheat on the water removal figure: the bucket doesn't hold *anything* like 70 pints worth of water. You've got to empty it multiple times per day, assuming it's actually filling up that fast. (The recalled unit had a much larger bucket, though probably only about 40 pints worth.) I could have gotten a refund check instead, only I was curious about how bad these modern dehumidifiers are. The answer seems to be "pretty bad". (The refund would not have amounted to much.) I find it interesting that the sheet metal to which the fan is mounted is a different color in yours. And yes, my own Coldspot 30 is _still_ going strong, 46 years after it was sold (May/June of 1972). I did have to replace the original electrical plug about a year ago. That, periodic cleanings with oiling, and a replacement fan motor have been all it has ever asked. Although I have actually seen some other examples of this model, most of them were flat on gas.
Even with a sensor on the coil, there should be a span like 10% between cycling on and off so shouldn't short cycle. With the fan running, it should be sampling humidity of ambient. Sounds like swing was too low on the unit you got. The new ones are more energy efficient at removing humidity, but between the fan running continuously and the short lifespan, there are no savings.
Yup, we were amazed. And I gotta give the entire Finder's Fee to Spats, I saw it in the store but somehow my brain said "subwoofer" instead, so I passed it by without even looking at it. Then, from across the room, I heard Spats's trademark "OOOOOOOOOH!" and knew it was gonna be something good.
Yup! As for modern junk, when I first started my job, I worked with patients that were housed in individual homes. In the maintenance warehouse, we literally had *pallets* of spare "LG" and "Edgestar" brand modern units, because Maintenance had literally a failure per week.
Hehe... I have a story about those Haier window units... I bought one back several years ago, and if I remember correctly, it ran for about three days and then started icing up. I had to turn the thermostat all the way down and wait for the ice to thaw. Then it suddenly vented its refrigerant, and Haier wouldn't honor the warranty. They claimed that it must have been improperly installed.
I didn't know that you could get them wet. I have the same one and I cleaned it some but I guess the hose is the trick. i am just amazed that the water doesn't damage any of the electronics.
Yup. Doesn't hurt a thing. As long as the motor and relay box are allowed to dry before being powered, and there are no paper windings and such, it won't hurt a thing. We even hose out box fans in the same way. Simple Green gets rid of all the grease without harming the insulation on the magnet wire. Once everything dries, and depending on the motor, sometimes we let them dry for a whole week, they have to be re-oiled... then, they're good as new.
Harley Badger All I've ever done with mine is a good vacuum and oiled the fan motor. I would love to do a total clean like this. Thanks mate. Now can you come over and help me change the bearings in my front load washer?
Looks fantastic! It's cool that you can hose these down to clean them, but I am just too paranoid to do that with my Kenmore. I have a worry that the water will mess up wire connections, the humidistat, or get in the oil ports for the fan motor.
I definitely understand your caution! :-) But yeah, same as our Whirlpool version of your Kenmore, it's been hosed down. The way I see it, half the unit already operates while wet, and the key is to give it plenty of time to completely dry in front of a fan, any water that gets in the motor will evaporate and leave the remaining oil behind. The only issue we've ever had with hosing things down is we have lost a couple paper labels... and one Lakewood fan (video coming) I hosed out the motor and then stupidly plugged in immediately (brain fart.) Spats will have to elaborate, but I *think* one of our two Coldspots was actually OPERATING underwater in a basement flood. If memory serves, it was the one we got on Craigslist, I know the the guy had a basement flood, and I think he mentioned that it had ran while underwater, and that's why he replaced it with a new model. I do remember that one was sort of muddy inside. That one Dominion fan we have (the darker-teal than the rest one) had been underwater, as well as a couple TVs we have.
Not sure if you guys watch Shango066, but he's had quite a few vintage TV's that have sat outside for years (or even decades) often in mud. And most of the time he still manages to get them working. I'm surprised the water affected the Lakewood fan. Usually the varnish on the windings is pretty tough. Hope you can fix it or get another motor.
I have one but mine has a grey cabinet. Bought it for $10 at my ReStore and it works absolutely fine, runs quiet and removes so much water. Unfortunately my parents who have been brainwashed by Energy Star decided to go and buy a $200 Frigidaire 70-pint. I hate it. That unit is so confusing to operate with its 30 buttons as opposed to a single mechanical dial. It runs so loud and like you said heats up the basement a considerable amount. I expect it to fail quite soon and then the trusty Coldspot Thirty will go back into service (I mean it never should have been taken out of service lol)
Very sweet!! That unit must work better than our so called 75 pint Friedrich dehumidifier with a pump. For my birthday, I’d like to see all 4 of your dehumidifiers running on wattage tests to see which one is the most efficient and compare it to 1 modern dehumidifier. Thanks
Just got one exactly like this a few days ago for $25. The fan was siezed up...but after much trying and lubing...I finally got it freed up. Now it comes up to full speed quickly like this one Did. It is way too dry and cold on this area right now...under 20% humidity ....but the evaporator coil reached under 35 degrees in some places...th e condensor was near 100 Degrees...after a few minutes. I expect in a few months it will work well..when it gets warm and moist in the air..
I recommend investing in some Arctic King foaming coil cleaner, works wonders on refrigeration coils and has corrosion inhibitors, hosing down a coil only does so much, neglected coils need cleaner to break up the hydrophobic film that builds up between the fins
WOW! That machine is mint!! I have an ‘72 Sears Viewsaver 6000 btu window ac in similar condition with amazing quality. Videos are on my page. My 3 year old Soleus dehumidifier pizzed out all its gas over the winter so now I’m on the hunt for a decent, old-school unit so I won’t have to buy a new one every 3 years
They sure don’t make things like they used to. I have a White-Westinghouse dehumidifier from 1995. I replaced the fan motor in it ten years ago, but other than that I’ve had no problems with it. I intend to keep it as long as possible.
Same efficiency thing with window air conditioners, a 2015 Frigidaire 5K BTU uses 3/4 of the electricity that a 1999 Whirlpool 5K BTU unit does, yet, in an 85 degree room, the TD of the Frigidaire is about 15 degrees on high fan, 17 on low fan, while the TD on the Whirlpool is 30 degrees on high fan, 32 on low fan, and when run through a usage meter, the Whirlpool cost less to run than the Frigidaire, hence why the Frigidaire is my only modern unit and will be used in my guest bedroom when I get my own place, as most homes in my price range don't have central AC, but it's not an issue, as I have a collection of 5 units that will grow as I find older units for good prices
Still has the original Gainsville Ga Leece-Neville shaded pole fan motor on it. As i believe these were charged with R12 as its an ozone depleting refrigerant its replacement is 134A. but works good with the original refrigerant and a Whirlpool compressor. as i believe sears the coldspot dehumidifiers some were rebadged Fedders dehumidifiers. as i used to have a 40+ year old Fedders dehumidifier when i was little as its compressor went as well as the RMR fan motor bearings worn out and has the original 3 bladed hubless metal fan says Torin on it. if i still had this i would had a new compressor put in and be charged with 134a Refrigerant. the New dehumidifiers are junk plus they have a crappy rotary compressor in them mainly Whirlpool today, Solius air, Samsung and others. but now im searching for an old whirlpool or what i used to have a Fedders.
What a beaut, “energy star” more like energy hog, even if something takes more power, it sure does a better job and in the end uses the same collective power as a China pride pos. Interesting that this uses r12, I would have thought this would have r22 as that’s what most ac systems used.
This unit (and the other three Whirlpool-made units we have) use R-12 because R-12 systems operate at lower pressures than R-22. This allows the compressor to be smaller, lower-compression, and more efficient (hence 6.5 amps, instead of 12 amps for a small R-22 window A/C unit.) Also, the lower pressures of R-12 allow a capillary-tube expansion system (which can't wear out) instead of having to go with an expansion valve (which will wear out.) One more thing, the temperature of the condenser coil on an R-12 system is generally much cooler than an R-22 system, which in the case of a dehumidifier, freezer, etc... results in the unit putting out less heat into the room. That's why if you take a later model R-22 dehumidifier into comparison, sure, it works fine, but it puts out 110-degree air.
You can use a capillary tube expansion system with R-22. I rebuilt a 2005 Edison branded dehumidifier (compressor swap) that did. The "organ donor" dehumidifier also used a cap tube. WC Wood was using R-134a in their dehumidifiers of the mid-1990s. I rescued one recently from a scrap pile that was so charged. It carries very prominent notices indicating this, probably to keep service technicians from making a terrible mistake. Why they would have switched back, especially to an ozone depleting refrigerant, I can't say. R-134a certainly seems like a better choice. I've also seen a few from the 80s and 90s that used R-500 (a blend of R-12 and R-152a, the latter being difluoroethane, same as what's in "air duster" cans). That too seems like a far better choice.
I think how I should have phrased it would have been "the lower pressures of R-12 can lend to greater efficiency with a capillary tube system." I was just typing out my thoughts, didn't mean to sound like a cap tube system *requires* R-12. I had the pleasure of using a "display" refrigeration system, where instead of copper, the tubing and coils were all glass :-) It used R-114 for super-low pressure just for demonstration purposes. I've always had good luck with R-134a, which is what we plan on using if any of our dehumidifiers get low.
Lower pressures don't make a unit more efficient, designing to reduce the compression ratio does. The compression ratios are similar when comparing different refrigerants. It's not the us of r22 or 410a instead of r12 or 134a which will make a unit less efficient, it's other design factors. One thing I've noticed is the smaller dehumidifiers now use 134a, larger 410a. Larger unit may have more capacity relative to the size of the coil, with smaller coils relative to capacity, compression ratio has to be higher to do the same job.
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Man that's sweet! R12 machines seem to be the quietest and longest lasting. The more "green" the refrigerant has become, the more systems end up in landfills prematurely.
It's even worse today. The new refrigerant shoots flames!
Ya, I remember some companies trying a new refrigerant recently. Maybe Co2? I can't remember for sure. But the compressors were going bad so often (and costing a fortune) that they went back to R410a.
The only advantage I see to "green" refrigerants are when they are used in cars, since accidents release refrigerant into the atmosphere on a regular basis. But in home appliances, they could last decades longer on R12, or even R22. So many less large appliances would fill up scrapyards and landfills that way. And if they are disposed of properly, the refrigerant could be reclaimed. No harm to the environment that way. But I'm sure you know what I mean LOL.
Oh yeah, I see what you're saying.
Emerson Collie oh yeah. I see some new mini fridges using Butane (R-600a) as a refrigerant. They’re made in China and they’re a major fire hazard!!
I know the "new" R600A or R32 is a flammable gas basically Propane (R600A or Methane (R32) and the appliances that use it have a warning label on them saying it contains flammable refrigerant.
That is a really nice unit Spats Bear and I am glad it went into good hands and is actually going to be used for its intended purpose
Wow, what a find! Sadly, I'd be willing to bet that someone replaced it with a modern piece of junk. And they are. I picked a modern 70 pint rated "Frigidaire" up off the curb, flat on gas as usual. From there I found out it was under a recall that the previous owner must not have known about. So I submitted the paperwork and had a brand new one show up a few weeks later. The humidity sensor is stuck right to the front of the evaporator, so it does a ridiculous amount of short cycling as the perceived humidity level drifts back up. Out of sheer exasperation, I finally set it to run constantly. I'm sure that's highly Energy Star compliant.
There's another way they cheat on the water removal figure: the bucket doesn't hold *anything* like 70 pints worth of water. You've got to empty it multiple times per day, assuming it's actually filling up that fast. (The recalled unit had a much larger bucket, though probably only about 40 pints worth.) I could have gotten a refund check instead, only I was curious about how bad these modern dehumidifiers are. The answer seems to be "pretty bad". (The refund would not have amounted to much.)
I find it interesting that the sheet metal to which the fan is mounted is a different color in yours. And yes, my own Coldspot 30 is _still_ going strong, 46 years after it was sold (May/June of 1972). I did have to replace the original electrical plug about a year ago. That, periodic cleanings with oiling, and a replacement fan motor have been all it has ever asked.
Although I have actually seen some other examples of this model, most of them were flat on gas.
uxwbill I concurrently agree that most anything refrigeration wise is junk today.
Amen!
Even with a sensor on the coil, there should be a span like 10% between cycling on and off so shouldn't short cycle. With the fan running, it should be sampling humidity of ambient.
Sounds like swing was too low on the unit you got.
The new ones are more energy efficient at removing humidity, but between the fan running continuously and the short lifespan, there are no savings.
Nice! I am amazed at these old units.
Gorgeous machine! I can't believe the shape it was in when you found it! Even better is that it's now in service.
jaykay18 Awesome!!!
Yup, we were amazed. And I gotta give the entire Finder's Fee to Spats, I saw it in the store but somehow my brain said "subwoofer" instead, so I passed it by without even looking at it. Then, from across the room, I heard Spats's trademark "OOOOOOOOOH!" and knew it was gonna be something good.
Subwoofer? *G P X ! ! !*
HAHAHA!!!
Excellent cleaning! Looks like brand new. That thing sure is a beast compared to today's junk dehumidifiers.
Yup! As for modern junk, when I first started my job, I worked with patients that were housed in individual homes. In the maintenance warehouse, we literally had *pallets* of spare "LG" and "Edgestar" brand modern units, because Maintenance had literally a failure per week.
Hehe... I have a story about those Haier window units... I bought one back several years ago, and if I remember correctly, it ran for about three days and then started icing up. I had to turn the thermostat all the way down and wait for the ice to thaw. Then it suddenly vented its refrigerant, and Haier wouldn't honor the warranty. They claimed that it must have been improperly installed.
I didn't know that you could get them wet. I have the same one and I cleaned it some but I guess the hose is the trick. i am just amazed that the water doesn't damage any of the electronics.
Yup. Doesn't hurt a thing. As long as the motor and relay box are allowed to dry before being powered, and there are no paper windings and such, it won't hurt a thing. We even hose out box fans in the same way. Simple Green gets rid of all the grease without harming the insulation on the magnet wire. Once everything dries, and depending on the motor, sometimes we let them dry for a whole week, they have to be re-oiled... then, they're good as new.
Harley Badger All I've ever done with mine is a good vacuum and oiled the fan motor. I would love to do a total clean like this. Thanks mate. Now can you come over and help me change the bearings in my front load washer?
Haha! We could TRY, but no experience with front-loaders XD
Which reminds me, did I ever tell you about (or show you) my clock?
Harley Badger No sir. What do you have?
Looks fantastic! It's cool that you can hose these down to clean them, but I am just too paranoid to do that with my Kenmore. I have a worry that the water will mess up wire connections, the humidistat, or get in the oil ports for the fan motor.
I definitely understand your caution! :-) But yeah, same as our Whirlpool version of your Kenmore, it's been hosed down. The way I see it, half the unit already operates while wet, and the key is to give it plenty of time to completely dry in front of a fan, any water that gets in the motor will evaporate and leave the remaining oil behind. The only issue we've ever had with hosing things down is we have lost a couple paper labels... and one Lakewood fan (video coming) I hosed out the motor and then stupidly plugged in immediately (brain fart.) Spats will have to elaborate, but I *think* one of our two Coldspots was actually OPERATING underwater in a basement flood. If memory serves, it was the one we got on Craigslist, I know the the guy had a basement flood, and I think he mentioned that it had ran while underwater, and that's why he replaced it with a new model. I do remember that one was sort of muddy inside. That one Dominion fan we have (the darker-teal than the rest one) had been underwater, as well as a couple TVs we have.
Not sure if you guys watch Shango066, but he's had quite a few vintage TV's that have sat outside for years (or even decades) often in mud. And most of the time he still manages to get them working.
I'm surprised the water affected the Lakewood fan. Usually the varnish on the windings is pretty tough. Hope you can fix it or get another motor.
That sounds pretty cool. I'll have to check that out when I get the chance.
Shango decided to insult us, so we parted ways with his videos. And yep, I managed to get another motor, courtesy of ToryTheFanMan :-)
If you have an air compressor, you can blow off the whole unit with compressed air after cleaning
Uses less amps, looks like furniture, does a way better job even after almost 50 years of use. I'd say that's a win.
I have one but mine has a grey cabinet. Bought it for $10 at my ReStore and it works absolutely fine, runs quiet and removes so much water. Unfortunately my parents who have been brainwashed by Energy Star decided to go and buy a $200 Frigidaire 70-pint. I hate it. That unit is so confusing to operate with its 30 buttons as opposed to a single mechanical dial. It runs so loud and like you said heats up the basement a considerable amount. I expect it to fail quite soon and then the trusty Coldspot Thirty will go back into service (I mean it never should have been taken out of service lol)
Shes a beauty, glad it fell into good hands!
Thanks :-)
Very sweet!! That unit must work better than our so called 75 pint Friedrich dehumidifier with a pump. For my birthday, I’d like to see all 4 of your dehumidifiers running on wattage tests to see which one is the most efficient and compare it to 1 modern dehumidifier. Thanks
This one doesn't just *drip,* it actually produces a constant *trickle* of water. It's fantastic. And sure thing, I can make that happen :-)
Harley Badger awesome! I'm excited
Just got one exactly like this a few days ago for $25. The fan was siezed up...but after much trying and lubing...I finally got it freed up. Now it comes up to full speed quickly like this one Did. It is way too dry and cold on this area right now...under 20% humidity ....but the evaporator coil reached under 35 degrees in some places...th e condensor was near 100 Degrees...after a few minutes. I expect in a few months it will work well..when it gets warm and moist in the air..
I recommend investing in some Arctic King foaming coil cleaner, works wonders on refrigeration coils and has corrosion inhibitors, hosing down a coil only does so much, neglected coils need cleaner to break up the hydrophobic film that builds up between the fins
Haha the new intro, i like it
WOW! That machine is mint!! I have an ‘72 Sears Viewsaver 6000 btu window ac in similar condition with amazing quality. Videos are on my page. My 3 year old Soleus dehumidifier pizzed out all its gas over the winter so now I’m on the hunt for a decent, old-school unit so I won’t have to buy a new one every 3 years
They sure don’t make things like they used to. I have a White-Westinghouse dehumidifier from 1995. I replaced the fan motor in it ten years ago, but other than that I’ve had no problems with it. I intend to keep it as long as possible.
just found a D'Longhi machine from 1990, they made stuff way better back in the day, made in Korea, still works great
How's it going with the CT-100?
On and off :-) Still making slow but steady progress.
Oh lets speed it up, see who finishes first Spats with the CT-100 or me with the VR-1200 :)
mspysu79, what's a VR-1200?
kraig 88 a 1967 Ampex broadcast videotape recorder.
ruclips.net/video/psJsx80gRHI/видео.html
Same efficiency thing with window air conditioners, a 2015 Frigidaire 5K BTU uses 3/4 of the electricity that a 1999 Whirlpool 5K BTU unit does, yet, in an 85 degree room, the TD of the Frigidaire is about 15 degrees on high fan, 17 on low fan, while the TD on the Whirlpool is 30 degrees on high fan, 32 on low fan, and when run through a usage meter, the Whirlpool cost less to run than the Frigidaire, hence why the Frigidaire is my only modern unit and will be used in my guest bedroom when I get my own place, as most homes in my price range don't have central AC, but it's not an issue, as I have a collection of 5 units that will grow as I find older units for good prices
Still has the original Gainsville Ga Leece-Neville shaded pole fan motor on it. As i believe these were charged with R12 as its an ozone depleting refrigerant its replacement is 134A. but works good with the original refrigerant and a Whirlpool compressor. as i believe sears the coldspot dehumidifiers some were rebadged Fedders dehumidifiers. as i used to have a 40+ year old Fedders dehumidifier when i was little as its compressor went as well as the RMR fan motor bearings worn out and has the original 3 bladed hubless metal fan says Torin on it. if i still had this i would had a new compressor put in and be charged with 134a Refrigerant. the New dehumidifiers are junk plus they have a crappy rotary compressor in them mainly Whirlpool today, Solius air, Samsung and others. but now im searching for an old whirlpool or what i used to have a Fedders.
What a beaut, “energy star” more like energy hog, even if something takes more power, it sure does a better job and in the end uses the same collective power as a China pride pos. Interesting that this uses r12, I would have thought this would have r22 as that’s what most ac systems used.
This unit (and the other three Whirlpool-made units we have) use R-12 because R-12 systems operate at lower pressures than R-22. This allows the compressor to be smaller, lower-compression, and more efficient (hence 6.5 amps, instead of 12 amps for a small R-22 window A/C unit.) Also, the lower pressures of R-12 allow a capillary-tube expansion system (which can't wear out) instead of having to go with an expansion valve (which will wear out.) One more thing, the temperature of the condenser coil on an R-12 system is generally much cooler than an R-22 system, which in the case of a dehumidifier, freezer, etc... results in the unit putting out less heat into the room. That's why if you take a later model R-22 dehumidifier into comparison, sure, it works fine, but it puts out 110-degree air.
You can use a capillary tube expansion system with R-22. I rebuilt a 2005 Edison branded dehumidifier (compressor swap) that did. The "organ donor" dehumidifier also used a cap tube.
WC Wood was using R-134a in their dehumidifiers of the mid-1990s. I rescued one recently from a scrap pile that was so charged. It carries very prominent notices indicating this, probably to keep service technicians from making a terrible mistake. Why they would have switched back, especially to an ozone depleting refrigerant, I can't say. R-134a certainly seems like a better choice. I've also seen a few from the 80s and 90s that used R-500 (a blend of R-12 and R-152a, the latter being difluoroethane, same as what's in "air duster" cans). That too seems like a far better choice.
I think how I should have phrased it would have been "the lower pressures of R-12 can lend to greater efficiency with a capillary tube system." I was just typing out my thoughts, didn't mean to sound like a cap tube system *requires* R-12. I had the pleasure of using a "display" refrigeration system, where instead of copper, the tubing and coils were all glass :-) It used R-114 for super-low pressure just for demonstration purposes. I've always had good luck with R-134a, which is what we plan on using if any of our dehumidifiers get low.
Lower pressures don't make a unit more efficient, designing to reduce the compression ratio does.
The compression ratios are similar when comparing different refrigerants. It's not the us of r22 or 410a instead of r12 or 134a which will make a unit less efficient, it's other design factors.
One thing I've noticed is the smaller dehumidifiers now use 134a, larger 410a. Larger unit may have more capacity relative to the size of the coil, with smaller coils relative to capacity, compression ratio has to be higher to do the same job.