DIY Solar Air Heater | Step-by-Step Building Guide [Part 1]
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- The DIY Solar Air Heater Building Guide & Materials List is available for free at diyprimitive.c....
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Through research and professional experience in the industrial heating system industry, I've designed a solar air heater that can be easily built at home with minimal tools. I've painstakingly chosen commonly-available materials that mimic what we would have fabricated in our factory. The result is a sleek, form-follows-function design that practically builds itself. This video walks through the entire building process.
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Excellently demonstrated 🖒
I thought its rocket science. But it's so simple. Even more simple than making a tree house or a pets house.
Glad you liked it! Yeah, keep it simple!
This series is incredibly well made. The level of detail is astounding. Subscriber #30. Cheers.
Thank you very much for your comment! I hope to see you build your own!
New video of performance is coming soon, once temps drop more. It's up and heating right now. Be sure to see us on Discord: discord.gg/Ae6WQeM78P for photos of this year's install.
@@DIYPrimitive I just found your videos and channel and agree-your videos and instructions are outstanding. Will you be completing the performance update soon?
I cannot wait to see your results!
Awesome video. Step by step was perfect. Thank you.
Thanks, Toby! Please help this channel grow by liking the three videos and please subscribe so you see the next videos to come!
Glad it helped!
Bel lavoro, complimenti, lo realizzerò usando lattine di metallo, così riciclo materiale e ottengo lo stesso risultato. Grazie
Ok! I tried that and found it more difficult, but use what you have available!
Like the materials and build. Would love to build a horizontal unit laying longways. Any one used this to fit a space available to ger perfect south exposure.
Ken?
I have a sample layout in the guide for a horizontal layout. Although I haven't yet, I think the build would actually be easier. Third under table of contents is Vertical/Horizontal orientation. Hope this helps! docs.google.com/document/d/1HM1Zp-AH4pkc1VaQgawh3E-lYrtIvapRA04eGFzc7RI/edit?usp=sharing
Thank you for this. I think I’ll try it for a solar water set up thanks.
running a copper coil through the inner plenum is the next step. Glycol (antifreeze) would be run and integrated with a heat exchanger.
I am wondering why your air intake (cooler air) is at the top, a short distance from the exhaust fan, rather than at the bottom of the panel? How do you understand the air movement within the panel? The construction of the panel is great.
The air intake IS at the bottom. :)
I have finished building one of these units. I will be pulling air from one room of my house and pushing it into another area of my home. I'm concerned about the couple that goes through the wall on the output side with the extreme heat. What are you using for this?
Thank you, I use the AC INFINITY backdraft Damper. Check out the guide link here and under the table of contents, click on Installation bookmark and it will take you to that spot in the guide. Hope this helps! Keep us posted on your project! docs.google.com/document/d/1HM1Zp-AH4pkc1VaQgawh3E-lYrtIvapRA04eGFzc7RI/edit?usp=sharing
Thank You for taking the time to respond so quickly. I have ordered an app-based fan that will control everything once it is put together. So you are using the backdraft damper through the wall. I guess I was concerned about the 140+ degrees going through the wall in the heat of the day. Also, are you doing anything to release the hot air when the fan is turned off because it has reached the set point in the house? @@DIYPrimitive
Thanks so much for your detailed instructions and videos. I wasn’t going to build a big 4’x8’ box, but after watching your videos, I’m thinking this might actually be the most efficient way to go.I have a few questions:
- approximately how much does the finished unit weigh?
- how warm does the exterior of the unit get? Are the insulated sides and back cool enough to touch/handle without protection? What about the front?
Btw, I didn’t see it listed as a transport choice on your website, I’m pretty sure I can get all the materials in my ultimate utility vehicle (minivan), not need any ratchet straps and not worry about any material damage. 😉 I’m very much looking forward to your performance video. Thanks again. 👍👍
i like turtles
I have never weighed it as I've never shipped one either. It is not very heavy and one person can possibly carry it similarly to a sheet of Sheet Rock or OSB. (although not advised to do so). I'm thinking maybe around 45 lbs or about 20 kg?
Does the back have something to cover the Styrofoam? To protect it from weather?
In the instructions, you have the option to add a sheet of PVC. But the styrofoam is unaffected by weather as it has a foil layer and it's not in the sun.
Styrofoam doesn't go bad, only paper backing can go bad, if it's even real paper 😅
Did you do a followup on this with any changes you would make. How is the back holding up? Please leave a link if so.
The back is holding up great.
Real nice sir !
Thank you, Dave! I really appreciate that. Be sure to watch parts 2 and 3. Please like all 3 and subscribe/share. Let's get this out there!
@@DIYPrimitive I saw them...very thorough instructions.
Thank you!
@@DIYPrimitive you are welcome.
I have a question, I'm looking at probably needing 4 of these panels to heat a garage is there an efficient way to hook multiple panels together so that I don't have to buy 4 fans at $100 each? I do love the brain system that you have suggested!! I really appreciate your videos and website!!!
Hey sorry for the delayed reply! Thank you a bunch! I think you could run air through more than one with the fans. It may just slow the cfm. But I cannot say for sure to what degree!
Love this idea and if Americans weren’t so lazy every house in states with winters would have one. My one question would be, so at night do you have to shut it off and close vent (every night). If not it would blow cold air in.
I use a thermometer switch that shuts down the fan when the box cools down, and dampers that prevent reverse airflow. Works great.
Hi Ned! Great question. And one I've toiled over and that is how to make the entry more sealable during off hours. For now, I have used the flap vent type covers found on common exterior dryer vents. You're really only stopping the flow of cool air. The flaps work well. Could they be better insulated? Probably. The fan controller will shit off the fan automatically once it's cooled down to your desired temp. Thanks for your question!
Will the losses related to the passage of the pipe through the wall (generated non-stop) exceed the profit obtained from the sun (only during the day and in sunny weather)? Greetings.
We use a backdraft damper to alleviate such loss. I am currently working on an even more efficient wall/window transition.
How does one of these do on cloudy days in winter? Anything at all?
my exact question. or a sunny day but a cold one
It is a solar heater, no sun, no heat
Surprisingly, on cloudy days, some heat reaches through the polycarbonate and warms the metal. If it warms high enough to where you want to start bringing it inside, you set the fan controller to that minimum setting.
Good idea using steel frame , I believe wood could start fire
Although it won't get hot enough to start wood on fire, I chose steel because of the lightness and ease of use as well as longevity.
So you don't use a fan at all?
Yes you can however, it's not necessary in all circumstances.
@@Eric-b8i9c Thank You
About how much does it cost, assuming you already have the tools?
The unit itself was around $460. The mounting frame was about $200 and the fan and controller together are about $160.
The frame cost was more like $100.
CAD or USD? I'll report back how much it cost me in CAD if I build this. I really like this design! Metal makes way more sense than wood and pop cans!
@@TheSkystrider You got that right! I built a wooden one a while back with a plywood back and 2x6" sides, it weighed a ton and rotted out completely after one year. It functioned great though but I always wanted a redo with lighter materials. This design is over the top smart, amazing!
I used no computers. Agreed, no cans, wood or glass in my design.
I would have thought the hottest air would be behind the metal. This looks like you are collecting from the front side. Can anyone explain why this is better or why it doesn’t matter?
Hi Jemari, Yes, you're correct that the heated plenum is that area behind the metal. So, the air passes through and between the rear and front metal (and the aluminum foil-backed foam board around the perimeter), with seams sealed with a bead of high temp silicone. My intent all along is to keep the air that passes through our "system" to be free from contact with toxins as much as possible. We also filter our inlet air prior to passing through the fan so we don't allow dust inside the fan or plenum (air chamber). The polycarbonate keeps cold air from touching the heated metal and it also protects the metal from hail and debris. Polycarbonate has a "200 X stronger than glass" rating. Hope that helps!
Did any one has tried it does it worth it
All solar air heaters work. Flat panel designs are deemed to be the most efficient.
Not sure why you're hammering and using pliers to crimp the lip down instead of just cutting it off.
I want the material left there for strength. I would not cut it. The crimped overlap provides more material for which the self-drilling screws pull together for what ends up being a very bomber corner. And crimping is so easy compared to even cutting it. Thanks!
Just saying, but why are you using steel stud, wouldn't steel track be much simpler, make sure its 25 guage also.. been a steel stud framer for 27 years..
Is the track the top/bottom plate for the studs? I’ll have to go check, looks like you’re right...
I originally thought of using the track, but the tracks lack the extra lip or extra break (bend) along its length and adds so much more rigidity. I suppose either way would work but I think it would be a bit wavy and flippy floppy.
Nope. I use steel studs and crimp the corners. I believe this makes for a very rigid and strong corner system and it's also super easy to do. Less cutting that would otherwise weaken the corners. Every step in the directions are just the way I would do it again until I learn of a better method. Thanks!
@@DIYPrimitive I appreciate your insight! Thanks -
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Didn't show completed. What's with the 4 cans paint? If your painting black why suggest galvanized? Buy already black prorib. Can still paint black flat. I doubt it would be worth it. The prorib get flat from the sun on its own Your can't expect none priming none etching paint to stick to galvanized.
Hi Dennis, The paint is only for the outward-facing prorib panels. The galvanized are suggested for the interior rear panels as there's no need for these to be any color and I am not suggesting galvanized be painted. In the guide I suggest trying to purchase black panels if available. And yeah, any dark color is going to get hot. Hope that clarifies. I'll take a look at my wording in the guide and make sure to clarify this area further if needed. Thanks!
Get better audio gear.
Noted and already done! Thanks!