Motorcycle Setup 101: Basic "how to" filmed in Upper Hutt - New Zealand
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2023
- This is a long one, so be prepared.
If you really want to learn the set up process this is a key video for you to study and then tackle concepts one at a time to master each segment. 
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Dave: Thank you for all your video. I recently replaced my 2023 XSR900 rear shock to a OHLINS YA 569 based on all your advise and videos. The bike has transformed. I dialed in the front shocks, as well. Unfortunately, our cold and rainy season is here now in the PNW. Looking for those sunny days ahead! I appreciate you!
Thank you for watching, leveraging the content and getting great results so far!
Thanks Dave. Again, a great video, very helpful. You keep things simple and that's what we need.
Thank you Olivier.
Dave is the man! Suspension saves lives. I’ve lost family and a lot of friends on bikes, I question how many of them would still be here if they had their suspension setup and working perfectly.
Sorry to hear of the losses you have experienced. IMHO I have no doubt some of them would still be here with a fully set up motorcycle.
The best work I ever did were to change headstock bearings ( they needed doing) and fork oil, the bike was transformed after 👍👍👍
Very useful like always. Thanks Dave!
So useful! This reminds me that I need to change the oil of the forks again, thanks Dave!
T%hanks for watching!
Awesome 1 hour video Dave. I do enjoy here you keep things simple
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
love it when Dave starts explaining!
Freaking brilliant. Everybody needs to watch this.
Thank you!
When i first started riding, i was taught to always drag my rear break doing slow stuff to help stabilize the bike, and i just started doing it pretty much everywhere... and it keeps my braking well under control and have never had my front wheel slip even in sketchy emergency situations... very proud of that...
You should be and the lesson given has no doubt served you well hundred if not thousands of times. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Great information Dave, very useful indeed !
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Great video
Thanks...nice job...👏👏👏👏
merci pour cette video qui explique simplement un sujet complexe ! good job
I use fork seal covers on my front suspension which can message with the cable tie trick
will try anyways or maybe pull one out temporarily
thanks for that cool trick
moto NZ logo looks awesome. the silver fern logo that's everywhere in NZ but in treads. super cool
Great explanation!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for a clear, concise and informative talk.
For non-adjustable forks, apart from upgrading the oil, would you recommend increasing the oil amount, therefore decreasing the air gap, will this help with compression or rebound more ?
Thank you for your kind words. For damping rod forks, volume is critical. The "Dump and Run" video walks you through the oil volume question so that will be very helpful to you (see link). Viscosity is critical based on damping rod ports, rider weight and ability, so minimum viscosity is 10, then 15 or 20w to suit as needed. The heavier the oil the more rebound and compression damping will be offered. ruclips.net/video/k4BxjmIwVdY/видео.html
I'm here watching this video for a specific reason. I haven't watched more than a 8 minutes so far but. . . I have an old 99' Suzuki GSXR 750, I'm old too, 64 years old. I love to drive fast and I love to brake very hard, it's just fun for me. I installed stainless brake lines, EBC sintered HH brake pads, EBC rotors, and just a few days ago, I had a mechanic rebuild my front forks because I keep getting fork seal leaks. He recommended to me to install OEM seals, dust seals AND an OEM fork bushing kit, with #10 fork oil.
I drove the bike today fast and hard and what I'm noticing is, the front forks are diving hard when braking hard, but I have the damping set to only 1 3/8ths of a turn-out from the hardest setting. I'm wondering if because of my very aggressive braking technique, should I set the suspension to very hard or is maybe something wrong with the rebuild? ...what is the effect of setting that front end to it's hardest and then braking hard? .. Will it cause a "washout" of the front end? ...will I notice that the bike is riding very rough unless I'm driving it like a race bike? ....I don't want to break anything in the forks.
I did use OEM HONDA #10 fork oil because that was all the dealer had at the time, AND I made absolutely sure that only 490 ml per side of oil went in.
Welcome to New Zealand
Notes about preload and compression to adjust rear ride height was interesting
I hope you take that information and test it out so you can take theory into reality.
@@CatalystReactionSBW thanks for the response Dave! Was messing around with the bike a little bit yesterday and started wondering if was there a way to empirically check the front and rear heights? Is that just a rider sag measurement
@@sivonparansun Heights would be measured with fork preload at minimum and maximum. Rear shock would be based on shim/no shim between the shock and frame then static sag plus rider sag. That would be with no changes from stock and then you can move the forks and possibly (based on design), add or remove shims for the rear shock length.
I’m trying to go to one of these classes.
Very informative as to the critical nature of suspension set up. took me awhile to dial into Dave style though quite confusing at first
Sorry I created confusion initially but thank you for your perseverance.
Awesome vid! I have yss cartridges on my 2006 R6 with compression on one side and rebound on the other. You are saying I Can I use different weight oils in compression and rebound sides?
You can use differemt viscosity oil in each leg based on valving etc. With a product like YSS, they are engineered for a specified oil brand and viscosity to make sure you Google a fork oil viscosity chart to find something very similar in VI and cSt indexes. You can manipulate volume to adjust the air gap based on braking technique and skill.
Thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge for safer riding. I’d like to know your take on sag on a bike that has considerably different front and rear travel (195mm front vs 156mm rear). Would you set both sag numbers equally based on Mm, on %, or how? It seems that having different travel will mean the bikes geometry and rake will change a lot based on corner entry and exit.
Great question! Long travel suspension is generally set at 30-35% of total travel initially. That includes static and rider sag added together. Ride and see how much travel is used, then adjust preload as needed to optimize travel to 80% range. Once you have preload optimized, set compression at 50% of the total range and set rebound correctly - both with hot oil, then ride again to test weight transfer and braking stability vs dive. At that point, you will have the baseline needed for your roads, your skills and speed.
I watched the first 20 minutes about damping on the front forks, but wouldn't the setting of the rebound have an effect on the number of times the front suspension pogo's? ... What was the rebound setting on that bike during your tuning of it?
It is the rebound he is adjusting
Nice Explainings... Me as Non-Nature English speaker can follow 😉 Q: How to know that the bike is in "balanced" heights ... Front to Rear ? That issnt in the users manual right ? Where i can get this information ? Or is there a "trick" to see it on the bike ?
Thank you! Balanced in height or geometry is based on how much energy you use to initiate the turning for each corner. For the front, the balance will be stock or 2-5mm lower than stock eg: MT09 where the front visually appears higher. If you work hard to get the bike into the corner and rebound is correct, then the fork position is too high.
@@CatalystReactionSBW Thank you for your answer. That means my z900 2019 is pretty good because she corners very easy with the actual setting. I have to make a screenshot for backup. 😘
for IOS is the app no longer on the store?? id like to subscribe to watch some of these trailers but i cant find the app to pay for the access
The App was scrapped several years ago after two years of work and no users. All the content was transferred to the DMT website. You can join here: davemosstuning.com/pricing-tables/. One month is $9.99 for unlimited viewing.
Been following you for 10yrs Dave since OTT days. Bummed that they wouldn't let you come to Sydney Motorsport Park in 2019, when I moved to NZ thought never gonna get a chance to meet you and have you set my bike up at the track. Now I find out you actually visit here and that I just missed you again lol. When will you be coming back to NZ and will it be street rides only or do you plan on coming to do track day setups ?
Thanks for following my work! I have been coming to Aussie and NZ since 2011, every Jnauary for Aussie and February and March for NZ. Will be back next year again. All my events and dates will be on my website, IG and FB so multiple sources for you to know where I am. I have not been at the track in NZ for several years as there are so few events that clash with my schedule. Hoping next year that ride days at the track will feature!.
Are you adjusting preload or compression?
Not the preload, I think it's the rebound
Rebound to se the balance of the motorcycle correctly.
' ' 😢🎉🎉🎉🎉'v😂😢@@CatalystReactionSBW
So what are the options exactly on no adjustable front fork ? Different oil and just about it ? Im thinking about cartridges but they are expensive as fuck
It is all budget driven. If you have the budget for oil, you start there. Oil and springs is next, then revalve or piston kit. Finally, cartridges.......
Please do repeat the questions asked due to the fact the audience has no microphone.
Apologies for that. Great point and i will make sure i do that for the recording.
👍
Hello! Great video, it makes sense to me, but only partially. Definitely agree it should not bounce multiple times. But the way you did it did not include the weigh of the rider. I imagine it would behave different for different drivers in the real world. Also, when you push on the handle bars the force applied is the sum of your force and the motorcycle weight on the front tire. But when you hit a puddle the force is the sum of the weigh of the front tire only (the wheel moves on this case, not the bike) plus the force that pushed the wheel up. Can you explain it please?
Thank you for your kind words. It is impossible to put enough force into the bike to mimic at pot hole type of impact. It is possible to show rough impacts like chip seal repairs edges, manhole covers. By pushing with less intensity, rolling surface undulations can be validated. As such via different movements based on road speed (the faster you go the more violent the impact to the suspension), we can show how 1. Oil Viscosity and 2. Rebound setting are working. If rain, there is far less movement in general other than large inpacts so fork movement may be significantly slower due to 1. Ambient temps keeping the oil much cooler. 2. Oil viscosity does not decrease much from lack of heat and slow movements. As such, suspension generally moves less quickly in cold weather and slower when riding in rain therefore the rebound stroke will be slower as oil movement is slower.
@@CatalystReactionSBW thank you for your answer!
Motocross background - used my rear brake a lot.
I’d like you to setup my sag and compression/rebound. I’m in the Bay Area. 2004 Kawasaki zrx 1224 ohlins rear 170lb rider springs in the stock fork legs.
Which bay
You can see my events at www.davemosstuning.com/calendar and i look forward to meeting you!
first!
So this is a new bike with shitty forks??
It is a bike that can use some proactive thinking and product discussion to optimize what the bike comes with.
NO cable tie will be big enough to put around this guy's ego, sadly. 😮
it's well earned thou
@@diegomarteen not really.. I can pick holes in this.. The fork damping bounce. Yes it is too soft, but he is saying it will bounce 4 times with the rider on the bike. NO it won't. It will extend too quickly on corner exit as it is rebound damping and the bike will want to run wide. But it will not bounce.
OK the rear shock rebound is more about bumps and will not cause issues on corner entry to the same extent as if you are riding hard there is less weight on the rear of the bike anyway. The rear is more about compression damping than it is rebound. Getting rid of the bounce is just making sure it is actually doing it's job. The key is where you go from there. I can make a bike move up and down front and rear evenly both move at the same rate and the bike stays level. Is that the best set up you can have?? No.. But its a good starting point.
The Zip Tie on the fork leg. Does that show damping only or does it actually show pre-load or too soft or too hard a spring? If the spring is too soft the bike will still compress under control but will still bottom out and can cause issues with ZERO suspension travel and cause the front to tuck or lift the rear wheel as it hits a bump. But its not all down to damping. The rear spring is about supporting the bike and rider mostly until you ride hard from the apex of the corner and out from there where it is loaded up under full throttle. You need some wheel travel for bumps and some compression in the rear shock but it is much less than the front.
He is talking about the most basic set up of making a bike sit level and work level, but its a long video about something that would take 10 minutes to talk about.
If you think I am just talking crap, I have built lap record breaking bikes and I am doing development work with an Italian manufacturer at the moment and my advice from my riding is being used for next years bikes. I spent a day just riding around a track yesterday with the Moto 2 GP winner Jake Dixon and ex GP, world superbike and BSB rider and champion John Reynolds while I was going set up work. I am not as fast as those guys or was not as fast as John when he was racing. BUT I am good at my job and set up beyond just making the bike work in a controlled even manner front and rear is where real explanation needs to be given. Simply showing how to get a bike to work in a controlled way with the bike rise and fall together is just the most simple baseline.
@@YAMR1M I have been watching this video but then realized that he is setting up an adventure bike and maybe these settings do not apply to my 24-year-old sport bike. I found the zip tie confusing to understand what he meant, I assume he is using the zip tie to mark where the max dive is of the front suspension. I was thinking also, how does the rebound setting on that bike not have something to do with the 4 bounces? ... should it?
I'm no superbike racer. I'm 64 years old, been driving the same bike for 15 years, a 99 GSXR SRAD 750. I bought the service manual, and copied what the settings were in that manual and haven't moved them in 15 years, and I have to say, I see no reason to move them. The bike has never done anything "spooky" to me in all those years, the tires don't wear funny, no "cold tearing", no " hot tearing", no leading edge wear or tailing edge wear around the sipes of my tires .. It's just bulletproof. I have been using SuperCorsa's for the last 5 years and just can't make them slide. I love to ride to max lean angle, right to the edge, it's fun, and have never been spooked by my suspension. The only thing I notice lately is, I just had the front fork totally rebuilt with factory parts, factory oil, and now I notice that the front end dives more than it did before, so I'm here watching suspension video's for the first time to learn how to adjust my bikes' suspension without making a stupid adjustment that crashes me.
YAM ... Do you know that it took me hours to find out what pressures to put in my tires...the numbers ranged all over the place. I found a website where you punch in a shitload of data, sustained speeds, highest speeds, body weight, exact type of tire, exact bike, modifications to bike, etc...the site emailed me and said that I am to have 32 in the front and 30 in the back and if I ever go to a track, 28 front and back. I have been running 36 for 5 years, I just lowered the pressures and can actually feel the improvement in hard turns, the bike just "digs in" now....even more confidence inspiring those SuperCorsa's are.
If you don't mind answering a few questions from an "old guy" over here in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada ... I'd appreciate it....all suspension question only....or even suggest a book to download that you endorse?
PS: I subbed and belled ya ... lol You have 101 videos ... looking forward to watching some of them right now.
Dude; I don't "attack" ppl online because it's pointless & I won't go back and forth. If you know, You know & sadly, You don't know! Dave Moss is easily one of the most knowledgeable motorcycle suspension + setup experts in existence. He's also quite humble given his experience + accolades. Not to mention has posted endless information for free online! + continues too. Normally I can agree to disagree with most ppl. You seem like a typical online troll making a comment cause you need something to do. Challenge yourself; Do a setup on your bike by Dave & if you ride track? See what happens with your times. You may not care for his teaching style but that's Dave. He's quite personal more so he's amazingly effective at what he does. G.l. my dude, stay safe. T.y. To @DaveMossTuning for yet another vid!
Don't get to but hurt but this old man would smoke you on any bike , go back to scooters squid.
Best thing to do by far is put a zip tie on the fork? How about learning to use the brakes properly, like even you said. (Rear brake first then front). Nobody has to yank the front brake either, as you said we all do? Youre bounce test is a joke. All the bounces are controlled by your arms, (watch his elbows pull back the bounces in the beginning, watch his bounces at the 15 min mark. Solid. Dont go backwards a bit) cant even watch the rest of this bs
Then don't.