I just installed the 38 seer 220 inovair in my 30 foot holiday rambler. Its running off my split phase sungold power inverter and cools the camper in 10 or 12 minutes then drops down to 200 watts of power usage. Some people had their doubts about me installing the 220 volt in a camper but man im glad i did. Its absolutely amazing how little power it uses and how well it cool the camper. Next im removing the roof top air and installing skylight in the old hole itll leave in the kitchen ceiling. Thanks for the video it gave me confidence to do the install myself and it all went smoothly.
My regular ac used to blow like that. But I looked up how to customize your own ducting inside for better airflow it helped out tremendously!! And it's not nearly as loud.
Glad more and more people are doing this. Hopefully have ours ready by summer as well. When I was doing HVAC for work had a client ask for one and it changed my world. I suggested these to everyone I came across after that.
@@RVLivingYet it really is. Even if I had a house still, I would put these in each room. Did a install at my step dad's barndominum, he has two in there and run 24-7. bill hasn't reached over 120$ all summer and winter.
@@RVLivingYet also since you have yours at one end of the rv. Do you feel it in your bedroom all the way in the back. I'm installing mine in the bedroom right where it points perfectly down the hall into living area. Hoping a 12000 btu can keep up with the whole 30' rv in summer.
@@BEASTmodeontheRoad We have a 12000btu in a 38' and it is brick cold in the summer and as hot as you can handle in the winter. That includes the bedroom.
You were so meticulous on installing that split system but your license plate is zip tied to the mount... Lol. Y'all did a really good job with the install.
my a/c went out time to install a mini split , thank you for your video now i need to figure out where to but it. i also have a forest River and from Florida.
The heating side of this unit I am guessing is way better than the propane furnace without the fogging of the windows from the propane. These are becoming very popular in the RV world.
I use your videos as a sounding board for my DIY build. The point on using radiator hose for the flexion and bounce is a future life saver point. Thinking about thick rubber bushings in between the mini split unit and my bumper. Thanks!
Looking at the same thing. I feel better having seen this. I was worried about too many holes in the rig (5er), but 1 in the floor is ok. Great job! Very informative.😎
Cheers to RV LivingYet, great video. Im about to do the same to my 41 5ver, was wondering how you bend the ref line from the inside unit to the right without kinking it. TIA.
FYI at 5:37 into the video you will see your philips head drill bit was left on the metal template, it came out of your drill! It is probably still there :) Nice work on the install it is a very clean job.
Impressive project. I would be thinking about building out the bumper to extend 6-8" beyond the unit. Just in case there was ever a very small accident. Maybe even a short bumper to span the width of the unit. Or even a cage... Just a suggestion. Really nice job!
why did you get Innovair unit? Cost, quality, support, etc. I'm looking at mini splits and wanting to know what reasons people pick one over another. There is always good reeason but no one ever shares that.
Thanks for watching, yes it has rubber bushings that came with the unit but the whole bracket system was bouncing and causing pressure on the tubing, the flex hoses work great.
Thanks, I was bamboozeled by the white wire . I will try 1 Red, 2 black, 3, white on both units and hope that is the right combination. I really want to thank you for your quick response and knowledge. thanks again s,j.
Im in the north so need a tank freeze protection idea for the tanks in the belly if I don't use the propane heat. I could circulate the propane system fan with a manual switch for the coldest of nights.
I was going to leave this comment if no one else had noticed yet! That Philips bit was stuck in that last screw head when you mounted that thing! (edit - and its at 5:41)
I didn't think of mounting it inside the cabinet, I almost ripped the cabinet out. Thank you Did you think about Mounting the outside unit near the roof on the back? My thinking is that area on the back just below the roof, opposite of the ladder or maybe in the center,, It is a very irrelevant area that doesn't see any kind of action so it seems safe and out of the way.
If have problem with the the copper lines breaking at the flare you can use a number 6 sae fitting with automotive hose ac line Number 4 fitting for the 1/4 copper line
love your video. there should be a way to keep the unit from “bouncing “ as other parts will fail due to the flexing of the mount. place a solid mounted cage under it with tune/brake lights and reflectors on it for the fools behind you. do you run a generator?
That bouncing you described will fatigue the thin steel of the bumper where it's welded to the frame. Your first indicator that that's happening will be when other motorists pass you honking the horn and pointing at the rear of your rv.
The bumper is not the typical thin metal, it is rated for 150lb with a tow hitch. The flex was coming from the legs of the condenser which are thinner, we have secured it with a strap. Thanks for watching.
Just watched your video and noticed that when you installed your backing plate for the inside unit you left your bit on the last screw you installed then you put the unit in place with it still there. Maybe you were just test fitting it and pulled it back off and found it?
These types of split units all require the outside unit to have 12-inch minimum spacing on the back where it draws air in to blow through the front. Yet it looks like you've mounted the outside unit with only a 2 to 3 inch clearance which severely constricts the intake. I have to imagine this reduces the efficiency of the unit, but it clearly still works for you and it makes it easier to mount this unit. But are you getting good reliability from this thing? It's great that you got this working because it's so much more efficient and so much cheaper than 12V ACs built for the RV market. There's no way I want to spend $4300 on an RV AC. It looks like you can probably move this thing out 2 inches to get a little more gap behind the back.
I think the camera angle is deceiving, we where able to push the unit out about 10" to get air flow behind it and so far it has been working great. Thanks for watching!
They don’t all require 12”. The clearance required will vary depending on whether there are other obstructions. You can put a Mitsubishi unit as close as 3 15/16”: hvacdirect.com/hvac/pdf/MXZ-2C20NA2_Install.pdf
Great Job. Was wondering, I looked everywhere but you were the only one that had you lines exiting the head unit on the right when looking at the front of the unit. This was what I want to do. Just wanted to confirm with someone, did you just slowly twist the lines the 180 degrees? Thanks
Air Handler location question: Are you having any issues with the small clearance to the top of the air handler in your install? 6" is recommended in my instructions.
I feel like you deprived yourself of stowage space installing the air handler as you did. Had you removed the doors, then added a blank facade over that void, you could have mounted it with no sacrifice. What are the manufacturers recommended space tolerances for the condenser, and do you know if they must be mounted in the vertical, as you did? I liked your presentation.
How did this work throughout the whole trailer like just one side was great and the other side not so great or did it work good all the way through from front to back?
Great work! Question/Comment -- The unit you mounted in the cabinet also needs a return air flow path free from obstructions. This helps to keep the the evaporator from freezing up. I believe most require a foot of clearance from the top. The air return space looks really tight in that cabinet. How is the return air flow path working out and is it enough when the AC is on its highest level to not freeze up the evaporator?
@@RVLivingYet From an aesthetic point of view -- Another idea might be to make those cabinet doors one piece and flip up. Flip it down to hide it and up when you want to use it :)
It requires 4 inches the manufacturer supplies all clearances in the manual. I would have came further out of the cabinet. Also there's a thermistor on the left side of the evaporator head that senses the room temperatures an enclosed cabinet wouldn't help. I'm thinking on installing one on my rig but I would much prefer the 220v. Which would require it's on 220 inverter. Also I'm sure the efficiency would be a lot better.
Greetings- I have a 2012 29RL- I think you have the same rig maybe just a newer model? SO assuming that you have a 29RL I'm curious if you explored using a ducted mini-split system since our rigs are ducted? If so why did you decide that ducted wasn't the way to go? Do you have a rooftop unit in your sleeping quarters? If not how does your system perform relative to heating and cooling the sleeping quarters at the opposite of the mini-split output cleverly installed in your cabinets? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Also wondering if you considered mounting the unit above the rear window and perhaps even having the top of the unit above the roof line- but no higher than a roof mounted AC would be or even lower- this would help in the airflow for the unit since half or a third of it's intake would now now have to deal with the airflow against the back wall. Also was thinking this makes the unit far more difficult to steal AND it would no longer be acting as a rear bumper of your rig- I also have an enduro motorcycle that I'll have as my bumper in it's trailer hitch mounted carrier- any feedback on this concept would be much appreciated!
I was also thinking in regards to the ducting- perhaps I could have the inside unit exactly like you did in that cabinet and then have small inline fans that I could turn on or off and or thermostatically controlled by bedroom thermostat- the small fans would be inline with the duct. This would duct the cool/warmer air being output by the mini-split in the living room up to the sleeping quarters- I bet that would do the trick- thoughts?
We looked at the cassette-style minisplits but it would have been too much trouble to route the lines to the roof, I dont think the back wall would be strong enough to handle the weight of the outside unit and I didnt want anything on the roof since these units have to be upright they would exceed the height limit. So far this works well, we have a follow up video that answer questions.
@@RVLivingYet I agree in regards to wall integrity- I was actually considering a roof mounted cantilever strut system that would support the unit's rack from above- if need be I could add structural blocking inside of back wall but doubt that would be necessary- and no I'm not suggesting mounting the base of the unit on the rooftop- I'm suggesting that the top of the unit which is cantilevered a foot or so from the back wall sticks up above the roof line but no further than the highest rooftop accessories you have. Even just 4 inches above roof line I think would really help air flow. Wish I could post a sketch in case I'm not articulating my concept adequately. Thanks for your reply!
I sure hope y’all didn’t have any problems with this ac unit. I put one in my rv and cut the lines to shorten them and I Ruined it you’re not supposed to cut the Freon lines because it uses it as an extra reservoir. I ended up having to buy a whole new unit
Please help. Can you tell me where you purchased your compression fittings and am I looking for the right fittings? (No one has what I'm looking for.) I've been to 5 different stores (Ace, Home Depot & Lowe's) looking for the 1/2 X 1/2 male & 1/4 X 1/4 male fittings. This is my first time ever fooling with this, I have the inside and outside unit mounted. I just need to connect the copper lines. I love your idea, so glad you shared it. Can't wait to send you pics of mine. My RV set up is almost identical to yours. So when I saw your video. I said I'm doing it! Absolutely hate the loud freaking roof A/C.
I got the fittings on Amazon, I don't have the links handy but you should be able to find it with a quick search. Good luck on your project you're going to enjoy the results.
So sorry to bother you. Would this be it? Brass Compression Tube Pipe Fitting Connector, Straight Coupling Adapter,1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" NPT Male Connector 5pcs (1/4" OD Compression x 1/4" NPT Male)
im thinking of doing the same .... nice job !! so glad you made this video... what size wire ? 14/2 ? on a seperate breaker ? hows the unit held up with all the bumps in the road ? thx
Seems like the unit draws around 500-600 watts of power... Would you guys share the solar system you have and the running time statistics with those panels ?
is it recommended to use 2.5---3" pvp pipe to enclose the lineset that you have behind the curtain going down through the floor to the outside unit to further expose it to air and prevent condensation or any potential leaks? I'm planning on doing the same in my rv but I just wanted to keep water from soaking up my carpet when the lines sweat.
@@RVLivingYet brother, the bit getting stuck in the screw happens to me all the time! I saw it not because I’m sharp or smart, I saw it because I have tons of experience! 😂😂😂
HEY HEY SABRINA STEVE HERE AGAIN. WELL PUTTING IN THAT AIR CONDITIONING UNIT LOOK LIKE HARD WORK. BUT EXCUSE THE PUN. IT LOOKS COOL. !!! THANKS AGAIN. HOPEFULLY I CAN CATCH UP WITH SOME OF THE OLD ONES. BUT STILL HAVING HEALTH ISSUES SO IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME.
im getting ready to hook my minisplit up... you said you're connection failed, so you went with the flexible lines ? any idea where i could get flexible lines or what there called ? thx
Nice install I like the use of the flex lines for the outdoor unit. Looking back at the install in hindsight do you wish you would have cut in a small opening above the unit for more air flow and to reduce the chance to re circulation? Great video.
I actually did cut a hole in the top of the cabinet after filming. I dont think it help much but we also keep the side cabinet doors open when we need a lot of air flow. Thanks for watching.
We are constantly moving. We may park for a couple weeks but no longer than that. it has been great. Since we put the flex hose on, no issues at all with the fittings. Works great! I hope that helps😏 the hose we ended up using is listed below.
Was the 12,000 BTU enough? We are here in AZ and lost our rear unit and I’m thinking of installing a mini split. I was to go 110V but the only option is 12,000 BTU. Not sure if it will Be enough.
Great video thank you. I'm curious as to how much solar you currently have at the time of the video and a year later have you updated and installed more solar? Thanks for your time I'm getting ready to do the same thing to mine
We have 600 watts on the roof and 200 watts in a solar suit case, and 200 amp hour lithium batteries, I would say double this can run on solar all day.
👇 👇We have listed the parts we used down below Affiliate Links 👇 👇 Innovair Mini-split AC/Heatpump👉🏻 amzn.to/3TuMXWi AC Gauges and pump👉🏻 amzn.to/30i70xR Flex hose = 1/2 "👉👉 amzn.to/3ro43HY Flex hose = 1/4" 👉👉 amzn.to/3bZPDak
To avoid vibration problems on the line set leave enough extra copper to create at least one loop (12" or so diameter). That loop will absorb the vibration and keep the lines from breaking. Also it wouldn't hurt to put a strain relief at the connection point at the condenser. This avoids potential leak hazards by reducing the number of fittings.
Didn't look through all 200+ comments but.. Where did you get the ac gauges?? Did it come with freon or did you have to provide it? What type is it? Great video. We are looking to put one in an ice cream vendors truck and a customer's horse trailer.
I have a sprinter van I was interested in mounting the outside unit underneath of the van does it make any stipulations that it Hass to be sitting in a upright position or going to be mounted in any position. ???
I'm curious abt the long-term results of this install since it was done over 3yrs ago. These type of splits are made for homes where they're not subjected to bumps and shox of driving on the road.
nice install. Curious, would this be overkill for a 7x12' cargo conversion? What do they run on....120v? Can you explain how it works in heating mode...can you replace a traditional heater with this?
You can get them in 120 or 240v, they also come in smaller sizes like 9k btu, when buying be sure it has a heat pump for heating. Ours works great on both AC and heat. Heat would depend on where you camp. Wont work well in below freezing areas.
Hi, thanks for the video. I'm trying to do the same, I don't know how to wire for power. Where do you get your power from? In the video, it shows the wires go inside the rv, but doesn't show where it gets connected to. Thanks.
there is a very low cost way to make a factory a roof ac unit much quieter. just you will no longer get that blast out of it. all will go through the ac ducts. but you still have on less than ac to work with.
@@amsoiltek We saw those, they were way more money and needed some modification to the roof opening. Eventually, we will remove the roof top unit and add more solar.
@@amsoiltek The problem lies in that the line set (refrigerant) will have to be run to the cassette on the roof, that doesn't leave for many options for installation, as most openings are pretty far from where the condenser would be mounted.
@@RVLivingYet Awesome thank you for your quick response. I’ve been researching them for a while and home depot has a really nice 12000 btu 20 seer for $899 right now. Great video thank you for posting
Great video, I am renovating my 2008 Keystone raptor and am toying with installing a couple of ductless mini-splits. Does the one cool off the whole RV well enough? also do you think the flex line would allow the condensing unit to pivot on a swing arm?
We have the 12k Btu unit and it does keep the unit really cool and also keeps it warm in 40 degree+ temps. The flex hose comes in various lengths so I do think it would work on a swing arm as long as you secure the hose and not put too much pressure on the connection.
I just installed the 38 seer 220 inovair in my 30 foot holiday rambler. Its running off my split phase sungold power inverter and cools the camper in 10 or 12 minutes then drops down to 200 watts of power usage. Some people had their doubts about me installing the 220 volt in a camper but man im glad i did. Its absolutely amazing how little power it uses and how well it cool the camper. Next im removing the roof top air and installing skylight in the old hole itll leave in the kitchen ceiling. Thanks for the video it gave me confidence to do the install myself and it all went smoothly.
Glad it helped
My regular ac used to blow like that. But I looked up how to customize your own ducting inside for better airflow it helped out tremendously!! And it's not nearly as loud.
The visual on the unboxing, mounting inside and out and the specs you gave helped enormously!!! Thank you for your effort!!
Awesome, glad it helped!
Glad more and more people are doing this. Hopefully have ours ready by summer as well. When I was doing HVAC for work had a client ask for one and it changed my world. I suggested these to everyone I came across after that.
Its night and day versus the factory unit, we love the upgrade.
@@RVLivingYet it really is. Even if I had a house still, I would put these in each room. Did a install at my step dad's barndominum, he has two in there and run 24-7. bill hasn't reached over 120$ all summer and winter.
@@RVLivingYet also since you have yours at one end of the rv. Do you feel it in your bedroom all the way in the back. I'm installing mine in the bedroom right where it points perfectly down the hall into living area. Hoping a 12000 btu can keep up with the whole 30' rv in summer.
@@BEASTmodeontheRoad We have a 12000btu in a 38' and it is brick cold in the summer and as hot as you can handle in the winter. That includes the bedroom.
@@RVLivingYet 12000 or 1200?
You were so meticulous on installing that split system but your license plate is zip tied to the mount... Lol. Y'all did a really good job with the install.
Thanks for watching
my a/c went out time to install a mini split , thank you for your video now i need to figure out where to but it. i also have a forest River and from Florida.
The heating side of this unit I am guessing is way better than the propane furnace without the fogging of the windows from the propane. These are becoming very popular in the RV world.
Yes it give nice even heat with no condensation
I use your videos as a sounding board for my DIY build.
The point on using radiator hose for the flexion and bounce is a future life saver point. Thinking about thick rubber bushings in between the mini split unit and my bumper.
Thanks!
Looking at the same thing. I feel better having seen this. I was worried about too many holes in the rig (5er), but 1 in the floor is ok. Great job! Very informative.😎
Cheers to RV LivingYet, great video. Im about to do the same to my 41 5ver, was wondering how you bend the ref line from the inside unit to the right without kinking it. TIA.
We used a round pipe to gently bend the copper around to aviod kinking.
I'm thinking of adding one to my 41 ft'r as well. How'd yours turn out? Is it effective?
FYI at 5:37 into the video you will see your philips head drill bit was left on the metal template, it came out of your drill! It is probably still there :) Nice work on the install it is a very clean job.
Thanks, yep it's still there. Lol
Do you have a second AC for the bedroom? Does mini split cool the whole camper enough to not need the second AC?
Came for the install, stayed for the music
Thanks for watching
Sweet install !
Impressive project. I would be thinking about building out the bumper to extend 6-8" beyond the unit. Just in case there was ever a very small accident. Maybe even a short bumper to span the width of the unit. Or even a cage... Just a suggestion. Really nice job!
Wow! I'd love one of these! But I'd have to find someone to install it. Thanks for filming this.
Thanks for watching
Is it more energy efficient? Is it heating and cooling all the way to the front of your trailer? 😊
@@1RComyn yes it is,and we also did a video a year later giving updates. I would recommend you watch that…
Thanks for the video.
I think we’ve decided on the mini split for our camper.
Its awesome, we are happy with it.
nice installation but how did you connect it to power up? Direct to fuse box etc..
We did a follow up video answer these questions check it out on our channel
why did you get Innovair unit? Cost, quality, support, etc. I'm looking at mini splits and wanting to know what reasons people pick one over another. There is always good reeason but no one ever shares that.
Cost and reviews, they have been great.
Great video thought maybe should have rubber bushing under unit did it have some. You did great job evacuating system and flex copper
Thanks for watching, yes it has rubber bushings that came with the unit but the whole bracket system was bouncing and causing pressure on the tubing, the flex hoses work great.
The only issue I could see is there's not much room above the inside unit for it to suck in air but it seems to be working well for you.
I was looking for this comment because I thought the same thing about the air flow.
Great video. Super idea about having the flexible hoses.
Thanks for watching, ya they have been working out well, over a year and no further issues.
I been putting that project off for two years now. It's time to do it.
We are very happy with our decision to put one in. Youll love it.
Awesome vid! You just saved me A BUNCH of time, money, and heartache!!!
Glad it helped and thanks for watching! We love our new AC.
Thanks, I was bamboozeled by the white wire . I will try 1 Red, 2 black, 3, white on both units and hope that is the right combination. I really want to thank you for your quick response and knowledge. thanks again s,j.
👍
Im in the north so need a tank freeze protection idea for the tanks in the belly if I don't use the propane heat. I could circulate the propane system fan with a manual switch for the coldest of nights.
Hey Hey you forgot to take the Screw Bit from behind the Unit!!! LOL
Haha! We were wondering how long it would take for someone to notice that.😂🤣 He realized where it went after reviewing the footage...😂😂 Good eye!😉
@@RVLivingYet LOL i was laughing and had a idea you knew and didn't say anything.. :) Happy Camping!!!!
@@kchedville It is now part of the install😂🤣😂 Thanks for watching, we appreciate it. Enjoy your day😉
I seen it right when it happened 😜
Great video did you ever remove the bit you left on the bracket 9:41? Just curious
I was going to leave this comment if no one else had noticed yet! That Philips bit was stuck in that last screw head when you mounted that thing! (edit - and its at 5:41)
I didn't think of mounting it inside the cabinet, I almost ripped the cabinet out. Thank you
Did you think about Mounting the outside unit near the roof on the back?
My thinking is that area on the back just below the roof, opposite of the ladder or maybe in the center,,
It is a very irrelevant area that doesn't see any kind of action so it seems safe and out of the way.
If have problem with the the copper lines breaking at the flare you can use a number 6 sae fitting with automotive hose ac line
Number 4 fitting for the 1/4 copper line
love your video. there should be a way to keep the unit from “bouncing “ as other parts will fail due to the flexing of the mount.
place a solid mounted cage under it with tune/brake lights and reflectors on it for the fools behind you. do you run a generator?
Wow, amazing job! You could do that for a living, for sure!
Thanks, its been requested several times.
That bouncing you described will fatigue the thin steel of the bumper where it's welded to the frame. Your first indicator that that's happening will be when other motorists pass you honking the horn and pointing at the rear of your rv.
The bumper is not the typical thin metal, it is rated for 150lb with a tow hitch. The flex was coming from the legs of the condenser which are thinner, we have secured it with a strap. Thanks for watching.
Check out our 1 year review video👉 ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
This is friggin great. Love this idea and your video. Good job husband and wife
Thanks for watching, this has been a great upgrade to the RV.
How is the front for staying cool in the summer?
We use a fan to circulate the air
We are trying to do the same thing for the same reason, the video was very useful
Glad it helped, the minisplit has been a game changer.
It looks like at 5:37 you left the screwdriver bit on the screw after you mounted the bracket.
Just watched your video and noticed that when you installed your backing plate for the inside unit you left your bit on the last screw you installed then you put the unit in place with it still there. Maybe you were just test fitting it and pulled it back off and found it?
😆 yeah we realized where we lost it after reviewing the footage... 😆🤣 Good eye! Thanks for watching!
Nice install. Will install 1 in my semi.
Thanks, they are awesome.
Thanks for making these video! I really appreciate your channel, very helpful & informative. Well explained & thorough. 👏🏼
Glad they helped you. Thanks for watching!
These types of split units all require the outside unit to have 12-inch minimum spacing on the back where it draws air in to blow through the front. Yet it looks like you've mounted the outside unit with only a 2 to 3 inch clearance which severely constricts the intake. I have to imagine this reduces the efficiency of the unit, but it clearly still works for you and it makes it easier to mount this unit. But are you getting good reliability from this thing?
It's great that you got this working because it's so much more efficient and so much cheaper than 12V ACs built for the RV market. There's no way I want to spend $4300 on an RV AC. It looks like you can probably move this thing out 2 inches to get a little more gap behind the back.
I think the camera angle is deceiving, we where able to push the unit out about 10" to get air flow behind it and so far it has been working great. Thanks for watching!
They don’t all require 12”. The clearance required will vary depending on whether there are other obstructions. You can put a Mitsubishi unit as close as 3 15/16”:
hvacdirect.com/hvac/pdf/MXZ-2C20NA2_Install.pdf
Check out our 1 year review video👉 ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
Great Job. Was wondering, I looked everywhere but you were the only one that had you lines exiting the head unit on the right when looking at the front of the unit.
This was what I want to do. Just wanted to confirm with someone, did you just slowly twist the lines the 180 degrees?
Thanks
Yes you have to be really careful when bending them.
I think all campers should have this setup straight from the factory.
This was a really great video. I enjoyed the seqential editing. Gives a really good overview and good tips too!
Air Handler location question: Are you having any issues with the small clearance to the top of the air handler in your install? 6" is recommended in my instructions.
We drilled holes in the top of the cabinet afterwards.
I feel like you deprived yourself of stowage space installing the air handler as you did. Had you removed the doors, then added a blank facade over that void, you could have mounted it with no sacrifice. What are the manufacturers recommended space tolerances for the condenser, and do you know if they must be mounted in the vertical, as you did? I liked your presentation.
Damn! You guys did a fantastic job! I’m thinking about doing it. I live in Palm Springs. 111 today
Thanks, we love it.
Good job!
Thanks for watching
How did this work throughout the whole trailer like just one side was great and the other side not so great or did it work good all the way through from front to back?
Does that take care of heating/cooling entire camper comfortably?
Great work! Question/Comment -- The unit you mounted in the cabinet also needs a return air flow path free from obstructions. This helps to keep the the evaporator from freezing up. I believe most require a foot of clearance from the top. The air return space looks really tight in that cabinet. How is the return air flow path working out and is it enough when the AC is on its highest level to not freeze up the evaporator?
We drilled holes in the top of the cabinet after this video, haven't had any freeze up issues.
@@RVLivingYet From an aesthetic point of view -- Another idea might be to make those cabinet doors one piece and flip up. Flip it down to hide it and up when you want to use it :)
Or screen it.
It requires 4 inches the manufacturer supplies all clearances in the manual. I would have came further out of the cabinet. Also there's a thermistor on the left side of the evaporator head that senses the room temperatures an enclosed cabinet wouldn't help. I'm thinking on installing one on my rig but I would much prefer the 220v. Which would require it's on 220 inverter. Also I'm sure the efficiency would be a lot better.
What about the slope that needs to be required?
Need help where did he got the power from the converter ???
Good stuff< mine just came in. What is your solar setup? Fixing ti hit the road with 200w of renege and 400w of panels. Any advice? Thanks
We have a few solar videos in our channel if you want to take a look and our setup.
Greetings- I have a 2012 29RL- I think you have the same rig maybe just a newer model? SO assuming that you have a 29RL I'm curious if you explored using a ducted mini-split system since our rigs are ducted? If so why did you decide that ducted wasn't the way to go? Do you have a rooftop unit in your sleeping quarters? If not how does your system perform relative to heating and cooling the sleeping quarters at the opposite of the mini-split output cleverly installed in your cabinets? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Also wondering if you considered mounting the unit above the rear window and perhaps even having the top of the unit above the roof line- but no higher than a roof mounted AC would be or even lower- this would help in the airflow for the unit since half or a third of it's intake would now now have to deal with the airflow against the back wall. Also was thinking this makes the unit far more difficult to steal AND it would no longer be acting as a rear bumper of your rig- I also have an enduro motorcycle that I'll have as my bumper in it's trailer hitch mounted carrier- any feedback on this concept would be much appreciated!
I was also thinking in regards to the ducting- perhaps I could have the inside unit exactly like you did in that cabinet and then have small inline fans that I could turn on or off and or thermostatically controlled by bedroom thermostat- the small fans would be inline with the duct. This would duct the cool/warmer air being output by the mini-split in the living room up to the sleeping quarters- I bet that would do the trick- thoughts?
We looked at the cassette-style minisplits but it would have been too much trouble to route the lines to the roof, I dont think the back wall would be strong enough to handle the weight of the outside unit and I didnt want anything on the roof since these units have to be upright they would exceed the height limit. So far this works well, we have a follow up video that answer questions.
@@RVLivingYet I agree in regards to wall integrity- I was actually considering a roof mounted cantilever strut system that would support the unit's rack from above- if need be I could add structural blocking inside of back wall but doubt that would be necessary- and no I'm not suggesting mounting the base of the unit on the rooftop- I'm suggesting that the top of the unit which is cantilevered a foot or so from the back wall sticks up above the roof line but no further than the highest rooftop accessories you have. Even just 4 inches above roof line I think would really help air flow. Wish I could post a sketch in case I'm not articulating my concept adequately. Thanks for your reply!
Install looks great. One question.
Is there any condensation inside?
I have a toyhauler and the unit will have to go in cabinet above the bed.
These units are great at dehumidifing, there is a condensation drain that runs down with the wires to the outside.
Good, that way I could put condensing unit on the tongue.
I sure hope y’all didn’t have any problems with this ac unit. I put one in my rv and cut the lines to shorten them and I Ruined it you’re not supposed to cut the Freon lines because it uses it as an extra reservoir. I ended up having to buy a whole new unit
It has been working great, we had to refill it after the initial line leak and put the right amount of freon in for the length. Thanks for watching!
Please help. Can you tell me where you purchased your compression fittings and am I looking for the right fittings? (No one has what I'm looking for.) I've been to 5 different stores (Ace, Home Depot & Lowe's) looking for the 1/2 X 1/2 male & 1/4 X 1/4 male fittings. This is my first time ever fooling with this, I have the inside and outside unit mounted. I just need to connect the copper lines. I love your idea, so glad you shared it. Can't wait to send you pics of mine. My RV set up is almost identical to yours. So when I saw your video. I said I'm doing it! Absolutely hate the loud freaking roof A/C.
I got the fittings on Amazon, I don't have the links handy but you should be able to find it with a quick search. Good luck on your project you're going to enjoy the results.
So sorry to bother you. Would this be it?
Brass Compression Tube Pipe Fitting Connector, Straight Coupling Adapter,1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" NPT Male Connector 5pcs (1/4" OD Compression x 1/4" NPT Male)
@@tjjohnson3316 High Quality Air Conditioning Copper Pipe Extension for Joint Double Connector Intermediate Connection Head Free Welding Butt Copper Tube Diameter 6-19mm Flare Nut (1/2" (12.7mm) Copper Tube
@@tjjohnson3316 Air Conditioning Copper Pipe Extension for Joint Double Connector Intermediate Connection Head Free Welding Butt Copper Tube Diameter 6-19mm Flare Nut (1/4" (6.35mm) Copper Tube)
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I really appreciate it.
im thinking of doing the same .... nice job !! so glad you made this video... what size wire ? 14/2 ? on a seperate breaker ? hows the unit held up with all the bumps in the road ? thx
Check out the follow up video that should answer your questions
Thank you so much for this video @RV Living Yet, this is exactly what I'm planning. Best wishes!!!
Thank you for watching, I hope your project works out well, we have really been enjoying ours.
Did you sweat the fittings of the flex pipe, or did you make your own flange to add male & female connections?
Made flanged ends and used male to male coupler.
Hello one problem vertical up distance under roof must be 10 santimetr
Seems like the unit draws around 500-600 watts of power... Would you guys share the solar system you have and the running time statistics with those panels ?
We have videos on the channel showing our solar install.
Have you traveled much with it? Has the compressor at the rear of the rig taken a beating?
We have about 5k miles with it, no issues. We have a 1 year update video in the description.
is it recommended to use 2.5---3" pvp pipe to enclose the lineset that you have behind the curtain going down through the floor to the outside unit to further expose it to air and prevent condensation or any potential leaks? I'm planning on doing the same in my rv but I just wanted to keep water from soaking up my carpet when the lines sweat.
your driver bit was left o the bracket screw behind your fan section!
Good eye! Ya, we found out later, it is now permanently back there. LOL
@@RVLivingYet brother, the bit getting stuck in the screw happens to me all the time! I saw it not because I’m sharp or smart, I saw it because I have tons of experience! 😂😂😂
HEY HEY SABRINA STEVE HERE AGAIN. WELL PUTTING IN THAT AIR CONDITIONING UNIT LOOK LIKE HARD WORK. BUT EXCUSE THE PUN. IT LOOKS COOL. !!! THANKS AGAIN. HOPEFULLY I CAN CATCH UP WITH SOME OF THE OLD ONES. BUT STILL HAVING HEALTH ISSUES SO IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME.
Hope you get better soon!
THANKS
Great video! Another RV channel to subscribe to!
Thank you for watching!
im getting ready to hook my minisplit up... you said you're connection failed, so you went with the flexible lines ? any idea where i could get flexible lines or what there called ? thx
You have worked as an hvac tech in your previous life, I can tell.
This was actually our first attempt at HVAC, but been in the trades long enough. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for sharing this video!
Nice install I like the use of the flex lines for the outdoor unit. Looking back at the install in hindsight do you wish you would have cut in a small opening above the unit for more air flow and to reduce the chance to re circulation? Great video.
I actually did cut a hole in the top of the cabinet after filming. I dont think it help much but we also keep the side cabinet doors open when we need a lot of air flow. Thanks for watching.
Is this AC better than the normal RV air conditioner?
How about the electric? How much power does it take to operate?
Check out our 1 year review ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
I think you left your Phillips bit in the screw behind the unit.
Do you pull your RV often; or is it mostly stationary? Wondering how the line-set fittings hold up while travelling.
We are constantly moving. We may park for a couple weeks but no longer than that. it has been great. Since we put the flex hose on, no issues at all with the fittings. Works great! I hope that helps😏 the hose we ended up using is listed below.
Was the 12,000 BTU enough? We are here in AZ and lost our rear unit and I’m thinking of installing a mini split. I was to go 110V but the only option is 12,000 BTU. Not sure if it will
Be enough.
In extreme heat we kick on the bedroom AC but overall this is plenty for a 4 season RV
@@RVLivingYet
Where did you buy the flex line?
Could the outside part be mounted on the roof, horizontally?
No they are designed to mount upright only.
Nice video and clean install
Thanks for watching, we love the new AC!
Great video thank you. I'm curious as to how much solar you currently have at the time of the video and a year later have you updated and installed more solar? Thanks for your time I'm getting ready to do the same thing to mine
We have 600 watts on the roof and 200 watts in a solar suit case, and 200 amp hour lithium batteries, I would say double this can run on solar all day.
How many solar panels do you need to run it 24 hours
You left the drill bit behind the unit!🧐
Haha yep we figured it out afterwards. Good catch.
I noticed that too 😂😂😂😂😂
what temp did it keep the inside at under what conditions? thx
First of all great job. Just curious how much that outside unit weigh and did you modify the bumper in any way to hold the additional weight?
Edward, thanks for watching we just released a 1 year update that addresses that question ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
How did you seal the hole where the lines go through the floor?
Spray foam
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Innovair Mini-split AC/Heatpump👉🏻 amzn.to/3TuMXWi
AC Gauges and pump👉🏻 amzn.to/30i70xR
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To avoid vibration problems on the line set leave enough extra copper to create at least one loop (12" or so diameter). That loop will absorb the vibration and keep the lines from breaking. Also it wouldn't hurt to put a strain relief at the connection point at the condenser. This avoids potential leak hazards by reducing the number of fittings.
Didn't look through all 200+ comments but..
Where did you get the ac gauges??
Did it come with freon or did you have to provide it? What type is it? Great video. We are looking to put one in an ice cream vendors truck and a customer's horse trailer.
The products are linked in the description, we also have a FAQ follow up video if you want to look at our channel.
I have a sprinter van I was interested in mounting the outside unit underneath of the van does it make any stipulations that it Hass to be sitting in a upright position or going to be mounted in any position. ???
I'm fairly sure it has to be upright, I would think it would get enough airflow and get damaged under the van.
I'm curious abt the long-term results of this install since it was done over 3yrs ago. These type of splits are made for homes where they're not subjected to bumps and shox of driving on the road.
@@TheStanCountry it still functions perfectly!
@TheStanCountry it functions perfectly. We did an updated video on the mini split as well. Check it out...
Your apex bit got stuck in the right hand screw when mounting the air handler. Didyou ever get it out?
Thanks! Getting ready to do mine.
How did you wire it? Did you add a junction box at an outlet? I don’t have any extra breaker spaces
Wired to our panel, check out our follow up video for more info.
nice install. Curious, would this be overkill for a 7x12' cargo conversion? What do they run on....120v? Can you explain how it works in heating mode...can you replace a traditional heater with this?
You can get them in 120 or 240v, they also come in smaller sizes like 9k btu, when buying be sure it has a heat pump for heating. Ours works great on both AC and heat. Heat would depend on where you camp. Wont work well in below freezing areas.
@@RVLivingYet ok, thanks!
I wonder if he got his drill bit back...
It's a permanent part of the install 😆
Hi, thanks for the video. I'm trying to do the same, I don't know how to wire for power. Where do you get your power from? In the video, it shows the wires go inside the rv, but doesn't show where it gets connected to.
Thanks.
We did an update video that shows where we wired it. Check out our recent videos.
@@RVLivingYet i will, thanks for the quick reply.
there is a very low cost way to make a factory a roof ac unit much quieter. just you will no longer get that blast out of it. all will go through the ac ducts.
but you still have on less than ac to work with.
I wonder how long it will take for the RV Mfg's to start making these a thing?
That would be awesome if they did, would be a huge improvement over the loud roof top units.
@@RVLivingYet You know they make ceiling cassettes that would probably fit perfectly where the old AC unit was.
@@amsoiltek We saw those, they were way more money and needed some modification to the roof opening. Eventually, we will remove the roof top unit and add more solar.
@@amsoiltek The problem lies in that the line set (refrigerant) will have to be run to the cassette on the roof, that doesn't leave for many options for installation, as most openings are pretty far from where the condenser would be mounted.
Can the outside unit be mounted horizontally?
I'm fairly sure it has to be upright.
You said your roof unit would only cool to 81 deg or so in the heat of the summer. What is your average cooling with this unit
This will get it done into the 70s we don't go much lower than that
@@RVLivingYet Awesome thank you for your quick response. I’ve been researching them for a while and home depot has a really nice 12000 btu 20 seer for $899 right now. Great video thank you for posting
Great video, I am renovating my 2008 Keystone raptor and am toying with installing a couple of ductless mini-splits. Does the one cool off the whole RV well enough? also do you think the flex line would allow the condensing unit to pivot on a swing arm?
We have the 12k Btu unit and it does keep the unit really cool and also keeps it warm in 40 degree+ temps. The flex hose comes in various lengths so I do think it would work on a swing arm as long as you secure the hose and not put too much pressure on the connection.
Did you ever figure out where you lost that bit ?
Yep, it's still back there
Have you used the split unit while traveling down the road
No, with the slides in its not really something we would want to do.