Installing Mini Split Air Conditioner In RV Camper-Installing Mini-Split Heat Pump In RV- RVAC Solar
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2020
- 👇RV Mini-split air conditioner installation. Install Mini Split Air Conditioner In RV Camper and running RV AC on Solar.
Why we love our RV mini split...Thank you for coming along to watch us install a mini-split in the RV. This mini-split A/C an RV camper is better than a rooftop air conditioner. The Mini-split heat pump is great for an RV It is way quieter than those loud rooftop RV air conditioners. It also provides heat along with ice-cold air. RV a/c is one thing you want cold and quiet.
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• Installing Mini Split ...
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Хобби
The visual on the unboxing, mounting inside and out and the specs you gave helped enormously!!! Thank you for your effort!!
Awesome, glad it helped!
My regular ac used to blow like that. But I looked up how to customize your own ducting inside for better airflow it helped out tremendously!! And it's not nearly as loud.
Looking at the same thing. I feel better having seen this. I was worried about too many holes in the rig (5er), but 1 in the floor is ok. Great job! Very informative.😎
I just installed the 38 seer 220 inovair in my 30 foot holiday rambler. Its running off my split phase sungold power inverter and cools the camper in 10 or 12 minutes then drops down to 200 watts of power usage. Some people had their doubts about me installing the 220 volt in a camper but man im glad i did. Its absolutely amazing how little power it uses and how well it cool the camper. Next im removing the roof top air and installing skylight in the old hole itll leave in the kitchen ceiling. Thanks for the video it gave me confidence to do the install myself and it all went smoothly.
Glad it helped
my a/c went out time to install a mini split , thank you for your video now i need to figure out where to but it. i also have a forest River and from Florida.
Awesome vid! You just saved me A BUNCH of time, money, and heartache!!!
Glad it helped and thanks for watching! We love our new AC.
This was a really great video. I enjoyed the seqential editing. Gives a really good overview and good tips too!
Thank you so much for this video @RV Living Yet, this is exactly what I'm planning. Best wishes!!!
Thank you for watching, I hope your project works out well, we have really been enjoying ours.
I use your videos as a sounding board for my DIY build.
The point on using radiator hose for the flexion and bounce is a future life saver point. Thinking about thick rubber bushings in between the mini split unit and my bumper.
Thanks!
This is friggin great. Love this idea and your video. Good job husband and wife
Thanks for watching, this has been a great upgrade to the RV.
Thanks so much for sharing this video!
Thanks! Getting ready to do mine.
Glad more and more people are doing this. Hopefully have ours ready by summer as well. When I was doing HVAC for work had a client ask for one and it changed my world. I suggested these to everyone I came across after that.
Its night and day versus the factory unit, we love the upgrade.
@@RVLivingYet it really is. Even if I had a house still, I would put these in each room. Did a install at my step dad's barndominum, he has two in there and run 24-7. bill hasn't reached over 120$ all summer and winter.
@@RVLivingYet also since you have yours at one end of the rv. Do you feel it in your bedroom all the way in the back. I'm installing mine in the bedroom right where it points perfectly down the hall into living area. Hoping a 12000 btu can keep up with the whole 30' rv in summer.
@@BEASTmodeontheRoad We have a 12000btu in a 38' and it is brick cold in the summer and as hot as you can handle in the winter. That includes the bedroom.
@@RVLivingYet 12000 or 1200?
Thanks for making these video! I really appreciate your channel, very helpful & informative. Well explained & thorough. 👏🏼
Glad they helped you. Thanks for watching!
Wow! I'd love one of these! But I'd have to find someone to install it. Thanks for filming this.
Thanks for watching
Wow, amazing job! You could do that for a living, for sure!
Thanks, its been requested several times.
You were so meticulous on installing that split system but your license plate is zip tied to the mount... Lol. Y'all did a really good job with the install.
Thanks for watching
Great video. Super idea about having the flexible hoses.
Thanks for watching, ya they have been working out well, over a year and no further issues.
Thanks for the video.
I think we’ve decided on the mini split for our camper.
Its awesome, we are happy with it.
Sweet install !
Great job..thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching
We are trying to do the same thing for the same reason, the video was very useful
Glad it helped, the minisplit has been a game changer.
Great video! Another RV channel to subscribe to!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks!
Damn! You guys did a fantastic job! I’m thinking about doing it. I live in Palm Springs. 111 today
Thanks, we love it.
FYI at 5:37 into the video you will see your philips head drill bit was left on the metal template, it came out of your drill! It is probably still there :) Nice work on the install it is a very clean job.
Thanks, yep it's still there. Lol
Came for the install, stayed for the music
Thanks for watching
Impressive project. I would be thinking about building out the bumper to extend 6-8" beyond the unit. Just in case there was ever a very small accident. Maybe even a short bumper to span the width of the unit. Or even a cage... Just a suggestion. Really nice job!
Great video thought maybe should have rubber bushing under unit did it have some. You did great job evacuating system and flex copper
Thanks for watching, yes it has rubber bushings that came with the unit but the whole bracket system was bouncing and causing pressure on the tubing, the flex hoses work great.
Very informative and helpful thank you
Thanks for watching
Nice job! Hope it works well for you.
Thanks so far so good.
Nice install. Will install 1 in my semi.
Thanks, they are awesome.
Thank you. Very informative..
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
I been putting that project off for two years now. It's time to do it.
We are very happy with our decision to put one in. Youll love it.
Thanks, I was bamboozeled by the white wire . I will try 1 Red, 2 black, 3, white on both units and hope that is the right combination. I really want to thank you for your quick response and knowledge. thanks again s,j.
👍
Good job!
Thanks for watching
Nice video and clean install
Thanks for watching, we love the new AC!
Great video.
Thank you
Nice vid
Thank you.
Youre welcome
Nice and clean
Thanks for watching
Nice install I like the use of the flex lines for the outdoor unit. Looking back at the install in hindsight do you wish you would have cut in a small opening above the unit for more air flow and to reduce the chance to re circulation? Great video.
I actually did cut a hole in the top of the cabinet after filming. I dont think it help much but we also keep the side cabinet doors open when we need a lot of air flow. Thanks for watching.
Nice Job Brother.
Thank you, appreciate the kind words.
HEY HEY SABRINA STEVE HERE AGAIN. WELL PUTTING IN THAT AIR CONDITIONING UNIT LOOK LIKE HARD WORK. BUT EXCUSE THE PUN. IT LOOKS COOL. !!! THANKS AGAIN. HOPEFULLY I CAN CATCH UP WITH SOME OF THE OLD ONES. BUT STILL HAVING HEALTH ISSUES SO IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME.
Hope you get better soon!
THANKS
thanks good job
Thanks😉
The heating side of this unit I am guessing is way better than the propane furnace without the fogging of the windows from the propane. These are becoming very popular in the RV world.
Yes it give nice even heat with no condensation
Im in the north so need a tank freeze protection idea for the tanks in the belly if I don't use the propane heat. I could circulate the propane system fan with a manual switch for the coldest of nights.
love your video. there should be a way to keep the unit from “bouncing “ as other parts will fail due to the flexing of the mount.
place a solid mounted cage under it with tune/brake lights and reflectors on it for the fools behind you. do you run a generator?
Thank you ❤
You are very welcome, thanks for watching!
I didn't think of mounting it inside the cabinet, I almost ripped the cabinet out. Thank you
Did you think about Mounting the outside unit near the roof on the back?
My thinking is that area on the back just below the roof, opposite of the ladder or maybe in the center,,
It is a very irrelevant area that doesn't see any kind of action so it seems safe and out of the way.
nice thanks
Youre welcome, thanks for commenting!
Ty
Youre welcome
If have problem with the the copper lines breaking at the flare you can use a number 6 sae fitting with automotive hose ac line
Number 4 fitting for the 1/4 copper line
Hey Hey you forgot to take the Screw Bit from behind the Unit!!! LOL
Haha! We were wondering how long it would take for someone to notice that.😂🤣 He realized where it went after reviewing the footage...😂😂 Good eye!😉
@@RVLivingYet LOL i was laughing and had a idea you knew and didn't say anything.. :) Happy Camping!!!!
@@kchedville It is now part of the install😂🤣😂 Thanks for watching, we appreciate it. Enjoy your day😉
I seen it right when it happened 😜
Siiiiiiiiiiiiick
Good job broo
Thanks!
You have worked as an hvac tech in your previous life, I can tell.
This was actually our first attempt at HVAC, but been in the trades long enough. Thanks for watching.
The only issue I could see is there's not much room above the inside unit for it to suck in air but it seems to be working well for you.
Great work! Question/Comment -- The unit you mounted in the cabinet also needs a return air flow path free from obstructions. This helps to keep the the evaporator from freezing up. I believe most require a foot of clearance from the top. The air return space looks really tight in that cabinet. How is the return air flow path working out and is it enough when the AC is on its highest level to not freeze up the evaporator?
We drilled holes in the top of the cabinet after this video, haven't had any freeze up issues.
@@RVLivingYet From an aesthetic point of view -- Another idea might be to make those cabinet doors one piece and flip up. Flip it down to hide it and up when you want to use it :)
Or screen it.
It requires 4 inches the manufacturer supplies all clearances in the manual. I would have came further out of the cabinet. Also there's a thermistor on the left side of the evaporator head that senses the room temperatures an enclosed cabinet wouldn't help. I'm thinking on installing one on my rig but I would much prefer the 220v. Which would require it's on 220 inverter. Also I'm sure the efficiency would be a lot better.
What about the slope that needs to be required?
Hi, great video~ did you get a chance to test the unit under summer conditions when its actually hot out? AZ desert our colman 12K btu unit just does not function over 110. we get about 20 cooler than ambient temps. I am glad I caught this video as I wouldn't have known about the flex lines.
We use it in Florida and south east all summer and it works well but we dont get those desert temps over here. Thanks for watching
is it recommended to use 2.5---3" pvp pipe to enclose the lineset that you have behind the curtain going down through the floor to the outside unit to further expose it to air and prevent condensation or any potential leaks? I'm planning on doing the same in my rv but I just wanted to keep water from soaking up my carpet when the lines sweat.
Great Job. Was wondering, I looked everywhere but you were the only one that had you lines exiting the head unit on the right when looking at the front of the unit.
This was what I want to do. Just wanted to confirm with someone, did you just slowly twist the lines the 180 degrees?
Thanks
Yes you have to be really careful when bending them.
Do you have a second AC for the bedroom? Does mini split cool the whole camper enough to not need the second AC?
awesome video subbed -PawPaw
Thanks for watching and welcome to the channel!
Cheers to RV LivingYet, great video. Im about to do the same to my 41 5ver, was wondering how you bend the ref line from the inside unit to the right without kinking it. TIA.
We used a round pipe to gently bend the copper around to aviod kinking.
I'm thinking of adding one to my 41 ft'r as well. How'd yours turn out? Is it effective?
First of all great job. Just curious how much that outside unit weigh and did you modify the bumper in any way to hold the additional weight?
Edward, thanks for watching we just released a 1 year update that addresses that question ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
Good to see the obligatory bloodied knuckles
No job is complete without a little blood shed.
there is a very low cost way to make a factory a roof ac unit much quieter. just you will no longer get that blast out of it. all will go through the ac ducts.
but you still have on less than ac to work with.
It looks like at 5:37 you left the screwdriver bit on the screw after you mounted the bracket.
Great video thank you. I'm curious as to how much solar you currently have at the time of the video and a year later have you updated and installed more solar? Thanks for your time I'm getting ready to do the same thing to mine
We have 600 watts on the roof and 200 watts in a solar suit case, and 200 amp hour lithium batteries, I would say double this can run on solar all day.
That bouncing you described will fatigue the thin steel of the bumper where it's welded to the frame. Your first indicator that that's happening will be when other motorists pass you honking the horn and pointing at the rear of your rv.
The bumper is not the typical thin metal, it is rated for 150lb with a tow hitch. The flex was coming from the legs of the condenser which are thinner, we have secured it with a strap. Thanks for watching.
Check out our 1 year review video👉 ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
These types of split units all require the outside unit to have 12-inch minimum spacing on the back where it draws air in to blow through the front. Yet it looks like you've mounted the outside unit with only a 2 to 3 inch clearance which severely constricts the intake. I have to imagine this reduces the efficiency of the unit, but it clearly still works for you and it makes it easier to mount this unit. But are you getting good reliability from this thing?
It's great that you got this working because it's so much more efficient and so much cheaper than 12V ACs built for the RV market. There's no way I want to spend $4300 on an RV AC. It looks like you can probably move this thing out 2 inches to get a little more gap behind the back.
I think the camera angle is deceiving, we where able to push the unit out about 10" to get air flow behind it and so far it has been working great. Thanks for watching!
They don’t all require 12”. The clearance required will vary depending on whether there are other obstructions. You can put a Mitsubishi unit as close as 3 15/16”:
hvacdirect.com/hvac/pdf/MXZ-2C20NA2_Install.pdf
Check out our 1 year review video👉 ruclips.net/video/TP0KxDykO6k/видео.html
Your apex bit got stuck in the right hand screw when mounting the air handler. Didyou ever get it out?
Great video, I am renovating my 2008 Keystone raptor and am toying with installing a couple of ductless mini-splits. Does the one cool off the whole RV well enough? also do you think the flex line would allow the condensing unit to pivot on a swing arm?
We have the 12k Btu unit and it does keep the unit really cool and also keeps it warm in 40 degree+ temps. The flex hose comes in various lengths so I do think it would work on a swing arm as long as you secure the hose and not put too much pressure on the connection.
At 5min36sec you left a drill bit in the back side of your unit.😁
I feel like you deprived yourself of stowage space installing the air handler as you did. Had you removed the doors, then added a blank facade over that void, you could have mounted it with no sacrifice. What are the manufacturers recommended space tolerances for the condenser, and do you know if they must be mounted in the vertical, as you did? I liked your presentation.
Sorry to be a pain in the butt! Then you got the advice on the GFCI I replaced it with a standard receptical & it's working great except, when I turn the unit off inside with the remote the only way to get the outside unit to turn off is to turn it off with the breaker. I installed it as per the manual just scratching my head once again. Lol
The outside unit may run longer than the inside to shut down properly, but if it's running all the time there may be an issue with the controls or communication wiring. I'm not an HVAC tech so that's about all I can say. May want to double check everything or call a local tech.
Thank you so much for all of your help. I'll keep ya posted.
I sure hope y’all didn’t have any problems with this ac unit. I put one in my rv and cut the lines to shorten them and I Ruined it you’re not supposed to cut the Freon lines because it uses it as an extra reservoir. I ended up having to buy a whole new unit
It has been working great, we had to refill it after the initial line leak and put the right amount of freon in for the length. Thanks for watching!
Does that take care of heating/cooling entire camper comfortably?
Thinking about doing something similar with our toy hauler, great install btw, do you just have one large open space or do you have a bedroom to cool as well?
Yes we have a bedroom as well, check out our follow up video in the description for a lot of answered questions.
Nice unit …….8:13 😉
Hello one problem vertical up distance under roof must be 10 santimetr
Great video did you ever remove the bit you left on the bracket 9:41? Just curious
I was going to leave this comment if no one else had noticed yet! That Philips bit was stuck in that last screw head when you mounted that thing! (edit - and its at 5:41)
what temp did it keep the inside at under what conditions? thx
Just curious, every RV manufacturer says that you should not bolt anything more than a spare tire carrier or a lightweight bike rack on the back bumper. What did you do to reinforce your steel bumper to ensure the little tiny welds that hold it to the frame do not crack and split overtime with the extra weight?
Ours isnt a light weight bumper, it is rated for 150# so its working well. I do know the bumpers you are talking about and I wouldnt attach to them.
@@RVLivingYet Heavy duty bumper or not, you will still have "twist" and also bouncing of the unit. If some how you can get your 2 support braces to attached under the floor and just use the bumper to support the "non twisting" load, problem solved. I have a feeling you will be fighting this "bounce" forever the way it is now. EVERYTHING I've seen attached/clamped to the bumper bounces like crazy especially over bumps such ad bridge seams and RR tracks. The twisting motion (even on heave duty bumper) puts a LOT of strain in those welds. If you do remount this unit keep it at the top of the bumper height as to not hit the ground while menuvering over ditches and steep fuel stop entrances.
@@duaneroepke8840 I agree, we also added the strap which really stiffened it up.
Install looks great. One question.
Is there any condensation inside?
I have a toyhauler and the unit will have to go in cabinet above the bed.
These units are great at dehumidifing, there is a condensation drain that runs down with the wires to the outside.
Good, that way I could put condensing unit on the tongue.
im thinking of doing the same .... nice job !! so glad you made this video... what size wire ? 14/2 ? on a seperate breaker ? hows the unit held up with all the bumps in the road ? thx
Check out the follow up video that should answer your questions
Just watched your video and noticed that when you installed your backing plate for the inside unit you left your bit on the last screw you installed then you put the unit in place with it still there. Maybe you were just test fitting it and pulled it back off and found it?
😆 yeah we realized where we lost it after reviewing the footage... 😆🤣 Good eye! Thanks for watching!
nice install. Curious, would this be overkill for a 7x12' cargo conversion? What do they run on....120v? Can you explain how it works in heating mode...can you replace a traditional heater with this?
You can get them in 120 or 240v, they also come in smaller sizes like 9k btu, when buying be sure it has a heat pump for heating. Ours works great on both AC and heat. Heat would depend on where you camp. Wont work well in below freezing areas.
@@RVLivingYet ok, thanks!
Question: Did you have to add a breaker box to your set-up?
we had room for another breaker in our panel but if you are getting rid of a rooftop unit you could use that breaker.
Do you pull your RV often; or is it mostly stationary? Wondering how the line-set fittings hold up while travelling.
We are constantly moving. We may park for a couple weeks but no longer than that. it has been great. Since we put the flex hose on, no issues at all with the fittings. Works great! I hope that helps😏 the hose we ended up using is listed below.
bought the same unit but when got ready to wire the inside unit the signal cable colors don't match If you had this problem how did you solve it? please try to help , have had little success trying to resolve.. thanks s,j.
Just use the same color on the inside and outside, the color of the wire doesn't matter as long as you hook up the same terminal on the inside as the outside, hope that makes sense.
How do you keep the upstairs cool? I have the 13,500 single dometic on my 30 foot 5th wheel and it has the roof vents upstairs everywhere and my 13,500 roof mount womt keep the upstairs cool.
These are way more efficient that RV ACs we have a follow up video in the description to answer those questions.
Air Handler location question: Are you having any issues with the small clearance to the top of the air handler in your install? 6" is recommended in my instructions.
We drilled holes in the top of the cabinet afterwards.
Didn't look through all 200+ comments but..
Where did you get the ac gauges??
Did it come with freon or did you have to provide it? What type is it? Great video. We are looking to put one in an ice cream vendors truck and a customer's horse trailer.
The products are linked in the description, we also have a FAQ follow up video if you want to look at our channel.
nice installation but how did you connect it to power up? Direct to fuse box etc..
We did a follow up video answer these questions check it out on our channel
Good stuff< mine just came in. What is your solar setup? Fixing ti hit the road with 200w of renege and 400w of panels. Any advice? Thanks
We have a few solar videos in our channel if you want to take a look and our setup.
Did you sweat the fittings of the flex pipe, or did you make your own flange to add male & female connections?
Made flanged ends and used male to male coupler.
How many watts of solar did you have at the time of filming this? And how many amp hours of battery bank did you have? Just trying to gauge off of others who are trying out this awesome way of heating/cooling with solar!! Thanks! I enjoyed the video, too.
We had 600 watts and 200 amp hour lithium batteries, 2000 watt inverter. Thanks for watching
@@RVLivingYet Thank you for the rapid reply. I showed my husband your trick to fix the kinked copper line! SOOO glad I watched your video to the end so that I learned that fix, so you prevented that happening to us. I'm now wondering if they make flex copper hoses for the full length between the condenser and inside unit? That would relieve my worries a lot about the bouncing around of the whole system in my Promaster High Top van I'm converting into a camper.
@@artistmissie8224 they do come in longer lenghts.
I have a sprinter van I was interested in mounting the outside unit underneath of the van does it make any stipulations that it Hass to be sitting in a upright position or going to be mounted in any position. ???
I'm fairly sure it has to be upright, I would think it would get enough airflow and get damaged under the van.