Remember to fully discharge a capacitor before inserting it into the tester - i have damaged a couple of these testers by not doing this, that sadly no longer function
The only major improvement in my opinion would be if it had an e-paper display. That way the info would stay on screen (it turns off quite quickly to conserve energy). On the otherhand the color display is really nice. Highly recommended!
You are absolutely right. I have an epaper display. I might try it. I will say that this thing does allow the screen on time to be adjusted but it involves taking it apart and doing jumpers inside
@@AnotherMaker Interesting! Of course I immediately opened mine to have a look. ;-) On the back of the board I see two solder jumpers at P1 & P2 with what looks like a timing table next to them: "T" and then "10s / 15s / 20s / 25s" for their binary combinations Problem is: P1 & P2 are both open at default (so a "0", I assume) which should result in a 25s delay, but in reality it is always around 15 s (whether a part has been tested or not).
Will it tell you the "type" of capacitor???? I can tell an electrolytic capacitor because of the positive & negative marking. I have an old Delco Radio capacitor. I can't tell what type it is. Thanks
I have another video on the channel about building a universal IR and 433RF decoder. I use that 99% of the time when I actually want to decode something.
1:50...2:30 -> ESR of 470uF cap : if the measured cap was not faulty (*), then first meter shows 4 Ohms the other shows 0.5 Ohm: so first one shows nonsense; the other shows probably wrong value, because 470uF cap shall have ESR < 0.25 Ohms (depending on its rated voltage). Note (*): you did not say what was the voltage rating of that cap; Also may be the measured cap was actually faulty and had really high ESR... we do not know, because you did not tell us anything about that cap -- btw: annoying thing: it wastes LCD space by displaying on LCD the ‘M tester’ : who needs this , the thing has its full name printed on the case already;
Banggood may not be happy to hear that but they do sell this or something really similar to it on Amazon. Most people won't use this thing every day but it's really handy especially when you just have a pile of components
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Remember to fully discharge a capacitor before inserting it into the tester - i have damaged a couple of these testers by not doing this, that sadly no longer function
You are absolutely right. The instructions do say that. I pinned your comment so others may be warned :-)
@@AnotherMaker thanks..👍👍for reminding ..will not forget now
yep, just bricked one of these doing that!
@@Gavddotcodotuk 😥
For diodes, there are the K and A slots, for cathode and anode, respectively.
Oh lol. I'm so used to this thing not caring about orientation I didn't even think about that.
The only major improvement in my opinion would be if it had an e-paper display.
That way the info would stay on screen (it turns off quite quickly to conserve energy).
On the otherhand the color display is really nice. Highly recommended!
Excellent idea.
You are absolutely right. I have an epaper display. I might try it. I will say that this thing does allow the screen on time to be adjusted but it involves taking it apart and doing jumpers inside
@@AnotherMaker Interesting! Of course I immediately opened mine to have a look. ;-)
On the back of the board I see two solder jumpers at P1 & P2 with what looks like a timing table next to them: "T" and then "10s / 15s / 20s / 25s" for their binary combinations
Problem is: P1 & P2 are both open at default (so a "0", I assume) which should result in a 25s delay, but in reality it is always around 15 s (whether a part has been tested or not).
ohhhh rechargeable battery? That alone makes it worth the price of admission!
It really does. It makes it a lot more of a grab and go device instead of having the battery flop around
Thank you! I’ll get one as a newbie. Good to have long term.
I use it several times a week
Thanks, im a beginner and imma use this stuff, currently i have a multimeter and a diy psu and 60 caps i salvaged from an old board
Nice.... It's really handy. My meter can do a lot of these tests but I find this to be faster
@@AnotherMaker yeah you just gotta stick the cap in, my meter can't test caps i have to by the rating on them
Will it tell you the "type" of capacitor???? I can tell an electrolytic capacitor because of the positive & negative marking. I have an old Delco Radio capacitor. I can't tell what type it is. Thanks
I don't think it does. It just gives the capacitance and a few other specs, but it won't tell you if it's ceramic anything.
No, it doesn't have that capability.
Its amazing how inexpensive this is for what it can do. If you had an affiliate link I'd be using it
Did you check the alternative firmware for the LCR Meter?
I see that they have have updated firmwares, but I'm trying to figure out what they do differently.
mine only decodes two very recent remotes I've bought..none of my tv ones or anything else
I have another video on the channel about building a universal IR and 433RF decoder. I use that 99% of the time when I actually want to decode something.
1:50...2:30 -> ESR of 470uF cap : if the measured cap was not faulty (*), then first meter shows 4 Ohms the other shows 0.5 Ohm: so first one shows nonsense; the other shows probably wrong value, because 470uF cap shall have ESR < 0.25 Ohms (depending on its rated voltage).
Note (*): you did not say what was the voltage rating of that cap; Also may be the measured cap was actually faulty and had really high ESR... we do not know, because you did not tell us anything about that cap
--
btw: annoying thing: it wastes LCD space by displaying on LCD the ‘M tester’ : who needs this , the thing has its full name printed on the case already;
Good call. You are right
The first one says 0.42 ohms, he mis-spoke.
These types of videos make me spend $ on amazon....
Banggood may not be happy to hear that but they do sell this or something really similar to it on Amazon. Most people won't use this thing every day but it's really handy especially when you just have a pile of components