Hank please check the fuel cut off solenoid before you pull the fuel pump - we had one sticking and only a small amount of fuel would flow through it. We had 12 volts going to it but it was not clicking open with the key switched on - we pulled the spring and plunger out and the tractor ran only draw back was it would not turn off with the key but we learned that instead of a new fuel pump we needed a $50 fuel cut off solenoid. It works just like a newer lawn mower with the cut off on the carb - great video and can't wait till yall get it going. Thanks for the great content
And the saga continues!!! Hey Moe I mean Hank hope you read this comment before reinstalling the injectors. Since you are there and the injectors are out take a compression test!?!?!?
Get the injection pump rebuilt you should have a pretty good spray of fuel when you bleed the lines at the injectors and when you spray starting fluid in it from the previous videos it fires off that a good sign that the pump needs to be rebuilt keep at it don’t let it bet y’all!
These rotary pumps hate sitting over long periods and, with diesel attracting moisture, you're on a hiding to nothing. The workings inside your pump are fitted in laboratory style workshops, so fine and intricate are the parts. Any moisture allowed into them can seize up a myriad of parts, any one of which will render your pump useless. Haul her off and have her reconned but, before you do, ensure your engine is set spot on TDC and the pump timing Mark is also spot on, there ought to be a 'window' on the side of the pump with a small cover plate, make sure the 2 marks line up as TDC could be 180° out!! THEN, DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE AT ALL while the pump is off, disconnect the battery just in case! If all this seems too much to handle, a mechanic should take no more than an hour to whip it off for you. Good luck lads, you deserve it for your perceverance👍
Love your videos. Especially since I can watch them with my 4 year old son. He loves them too. Thank you for your awesome videos. We Always look forward to them.
Hank you can find the John Deer 310 backhoe spec. On the internet. I believe the fuel pump needs to be rebuilt and after see those injectors I would get them cleaned.
What we use to do the same thing is one of those spray jugs the pump up ones just put your fuel lines on it then you got it if you go out in the woods as well you don’t need 12 volt to run a pump
This John deer just does not want to run of its own fuel pump and it sure is putting up a fight. Great work and can’t wait to see the next one. Thanks for sharing this with us take care
100% agree, it seemed like it had the volume but nothing like the pressure. Gummed up/damaged delivery valves or pressure relief valve IMO, that orangey goop on the injectors could possibly be from a diesel bug infestation & if that's true the inside of the pump & injectors is likely to look just as cruddy. Looking forward to the next video, with the injectors clean & either rebuilt or swapped pump I'm confident it'll run
You don’t time that pump through the front cover. The 8mm allen plug on top is the timing hole. The you put a pin in the flywheel to set number one tdc
Rescued a 51 dozer once found fuel when left it will condensate and rust the inside of the pump and injectors if your bleeding fuel at the pump but not at the injectors you might blow air into the delivery lines and there is a timing needs tdc and marks on the pump line up
This “almost wants to start but won’t stay running” is very familiar to me. My issue was a leak in the fuel return line. Yes, I know this doesn’t supply fuel to the injectors, only returns excess fuel but, those diesel fuel systems need to be air tight throughout. As many air leaks that you’ve discovered I wouldn’t be surprised if you find a leak in the return system.
I was looking for this video, sounds like it has some deeper issues. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump, but it's a good idea to clean the injectors. Your doing a great job Hank, inspect the fuel pump. And after the injectors are clean. See if it will run. Hopefully you get it running, look forward to an update. 👍👍👍👍
Just put a injection pump on a John Deere 450d it had close to the same problem it would run but had 0 power but as soon as I replaced the injection pump it was night and day t did everything from flush the fuel system replaced the lift pump and injectors just do the injection pump and leave the shaft in there watch Wes work just did a video on the stanadine pumps
@@HamiltonvilleFarm it’s very rare for the injection pump to slip timing the shaft is pressed into the gear on the side of the pump there will be a timing window with 2 flat head screws remove it and bar the engine over until the timing lines match up when they are lined up #1 should be at tdc on the compression stroke if it is not then it has slipped but when you remove the pump leave the shaft in the gear that will insure the engine stays timed it will have 2 umbrella seals on it that will need to be replaced so you do not get diesel in the engine oil. When re installing the new(or rebuilt pump) be careful with the first seal it will take a little persuasion to get it to go is as the lips of the seal will be facing the pump bushing but you will line the timing marks back up by turning the input grove inside the pump with a screw driver and then go through the bleeding process again the new or cleaned pencil injectors (which are not cylinder specific) will help but I do not believe that is the issue I am by no means a certified diesel mechanic but I have been around diesel and gas engines my whole life I hope this helps if I still lived in defuniak springs fl I would come help but I don’t and drive semi trucks now love y’all’s videos
Gene, there'd have to be one heck of a blockage to prevent fuel being injected. OK could possibly happen, but all four on the same engine? And with a healthy pump all it'd do is rupture the line in question. No harm in blowing through them make sure they're clear, mind. Rodding out not such a good idea as I'd be worried about scratching off a tiny bit of swarf that'd damage the injector.
if the valve sealing surfaces are rusty you will not get decent compression and it will not start!! also check the fuel shutoff on pump is working if its electric you should hear a click when power is applied.
Hi. The rotary fuel injector pump is the problem. 90% of the time moisture go into the solenoid causing it to get stuck. You can not just change the solenoid as it is also part of your calibration. The pump can be removed by timing it first. There is a Allen plug on the top middle. Takes 1/4 inch Allen key. There is a notch in the injector pump shaft. The notch needs to be in the centre and TDC lock pin on rhs bell housing hole. If both pins are in, you can remove. Same for fitment. Nut torque is 195nm. Also test and replace injectors? Pencil type disposable and relatively cheap. Also make sure you have good battery. Maybe jumper battery directly on starter. Don't put 12volt on pump solenoid. You will blow it.
Sounds like it’s more of the injector issue then you are thinking after they were pulled out they looked pretty gunky I can’t wait to hear that 310 run,,,, we had a 410 on our farm and it got used so much
hola amigos como andan acá terminando mi trabajo veo que están con inyectores que no quiere arrancar están cambiando repuestos me gusta siempre lo solucionan y me gusta les mando un abrazo Marcelo de argentina
I've taken apart my injectors in my duramax and put them through my ultrasonic cleaner. Saved a couple that way, but once they get worn out, cleaning them actually made them worse.
I’d be really curious after you pull those injectors out what the John Deere repair center had to say about them... I have been following this video on this backhoe and I can’t wait to see you running thank you Hank
Gotta love the standard metric adjustable hammer. Those o-rings are expensive because they are that special john deere rubber. I would get one of those cheap cameras and see what the cylinders look like since you have the injectors out. I would probably go ahead and take a peek under the valve cover since y'all are that close.
Fuel pressure directly out of the fuel pump seems a bit weak. Probably a good idea to get the fuel pump serviced or rebuilt before installing the injectors.
never tried checking the power value on the pump. before you go spending money on a pump look into replacing the actuator first. at least take it out and clean it. they can stick and only be opening part of the way.
just pausing at 10:47, sounds to me that it's got plenty compression & it runs on ether. Also my "eye" for these things tells me the pump is timed right, from the pulses seen Vs compression strokes heard so I don't think it's timing. Volume of fuel isn't an issue either, there looked to be plenty fuel coming out of the dizzy head & at the injectors you showed. It did look like maybe the pump wasn't generating enough pressure though, the pulses of fuel just didn't look "urgent" enough to my eye plus you're getting zero smoke at all. There's 2 possibilities IMO, excessive leak off through the injectors causing inability to build "pop" pressure (fairly unlikely that all 4 suddenly went bad to where they wouldn't even pop, could confirm by pulling a leak off pipe and checking for near as much fuel going out as the pump was putting in.) Other more likely issue, for me, I'd say it's *got* to be crud or damage internally to the injection pump. Good luck with it, I know when it does run it'll be right for years with the effort you boys are putting in.
It doesn’t sound like it’s cranking over very fast one thing to keep in mind is if the engine doesn’t crank fast enough it’s not going to build the pressure it needs to fire off. You may want to put a battery charger on next time if you didn’t already have one on.
Take those injectors to Deere and have them pop tested. They have a way to pressure them up and see if they will crack open at a certain psi. If not, they are junk, those are throw away injectors.
Hey. First of all, remove the injectors and do a compression test. Listening to the “puffs” seems kind of weak. If the compression is good, remove the fuel injection pump also and test it. If this is good also, remove the timing cover and check timing. The tool for this is JD254A but you don’t need to buy it, just make one like this and use it to check timing. It seems weird that sometimes you have smoke and sometimes you not so, I assume this has something to do with the injection pump pressure but I have given you all the steps to take before you move on :). Hope this helps
Now I know why I don't use Deere equipment at all since I just don't know it very well but from a diesel standpoint they don't do all that much different than most cummins engines i have been around.. Stanadyne fuel systems i have not been a big fan of either but there a lot of them out there in the world
You gotta connect the kinnepty pin to the whatchamacalit to get fuel to the thingamabob to make the pop pop... and then dig holes 😂 great series for sure!! 🤘🏼
first your batteries are going dead from all the cranking. so you need to figure a way to keep them up.. if you do this a lot you may want to rig up a big battery with cables and a cut off switch on the post so you can just drop cables up to the different tractor battery posts.. second. i was watching an old cat training video. where they took the injectors out and reconnected the fuel lines with the injectors pointing straight up to see if the discharge is equal.. can you do that on the backhoe? with as many pre electronic injector diesels you work on.. you may want to figure out a way to pressurize the injectors with a mild solvent .. on youtube AvE found out a battery powered grease gun can putout 12,000 Psi. that might be great with a modified hose to force solvent thru injectors to check the spray pattern. i also hear a leaking intake or exhaust valve seat.. the hissing noise from one intake or exhaust port while cranking..
There's a company that rebuilt fuel assemblies for "watch wes work". Can't remember their name but Wes did a video on the repair and testing procedures. Maybe a source of info...
Excellent video Hank :) so far I should have fuel pump a oval or rectangle square plate has 2 of 10 mm or 3/8 to 7/16 head bolts or screwdriver slot number 2 screws or number 2 star or 2 torque bit multi star or hex one to plate face to left body! Once get plate should have time marks one for engine front and back to should have in chrome color should be 1 & 1 then know timed right if off 90 both need Johnson bar engine to get them perfect straight plus pump off too to included! If don't have 1& 1 together be misfire or put tractor in gear to move to travel she stall out to shut down engine everytime! Also want perfect time all time gear got tear rad plus motor front apart off and lots hours doing that line up to do 6 gears !
Any luck I'm having same issue on a 310x. Check same things you have buy I get a code for ecu. But entry of power to it. Weak fuel to injectors. And lifter pump has pressure for 3 or 3 pumps then weak
We have a great John Deere dealership with a terrific repair department. If you would like to have the location, please ask me. I’ll be happy to share. Great show
My guess is that something gave up the ghost in the high pressure side of the injection pump, or something got clogged. Area Diesel seems to be really coming to the front on RUclips, might give them consideration. Kinda wondering now if that fungus that grows in oil and diesel fuel isn't part of the problem ... guess you'll find out. You should become really good friends with Bailey, so he makes sure Brian (bcbloc02) pays close attention to your predicaments with John Deere or Cummins equipment. Send him a big southern cured ham, specify that Bailey gets the bone ... yeah, that should do it. 😉
How bout cha Hank, looks like you all are putting to cart before the horse there...your problem starts with the lift pump...that electric pump doesn't put out the volume the mechanical pump does..thats why it has low pressure coming out the injector pump..I'm no mechanic but I own equipment so I had to learn to troubleshoot, now those Deere J injectors are fairly inexpensive your wasting time getting them cleaned..since you got the injector out bring # TDC..it should be a bolt that needs to be removed to the fly wheel and you can check to see if the marks on the pump line up...you will need to turn the engine by hand.
Did y’all check the solenoid that letsdig mentioned in one of the comments I saw on another video? I don’t remember if you said it or not but have y’all checked the solenoid on the fuel pump to make sure it’s doing what it’s supposed to be when it’s supposed to be doing it? I’m sure y’all have just trying to think over other things besides a fuel pump. I don’t know if you said how many hours are on it, but I would think that fuel pump should last at least 8-10k hours with good clean fuel.
@@HamiltonvilleFarm that’s unfortunate, if the injectors weren’t stupid expensive I’d replace them as well just to eliminate that. Cause them injectors looked pretty bad.
Yeah the new ones should be here this week. I got Stanadyne injectors from TRI STATE up in Dothan. Not bad...like $50 each or somewhere around that price
No! The only way to time ANY part of these engines properly is to rip into the front of the engine. Remove water pump and timing plate cover. This will give you complete access to the entire timing train.
Hey just a couple things I’m a Deere tech. Your starter sounds really bad, I’d replace it. It’s cranking really slow, it’ll never start with it cranking that slow, the high pressure fuel is a DE10 there’s a port on the side of the pump that you can tap to check the internal transfer pump “inside the injection pump” if the pressure is below 25 psi it won’t start, the timing put the engine on TDC #1 there’s a plug on top of the injection pump that has place for a timing pin, then remove the front cover and you’ll need the pump push off tool to get the pump off the gear. So in short I’d replace the starter and injection pump and injectors Good luck!
If you would hook 2 batteries positive to positive and negative to negative you will still have only 12 volts. But you will have enough amps to turn the engine at the proper speed. I have a 310 g and they came from the factory with two batteries. I have mentioned this before and watched every episode. The injection pump is never going to put out enough pressure to open a injecter until it’s turning the proper rpm. Good luck.
Make sure you have your notification bell turned on and follow us on Facebook. We have replaced the starter. That video will be out soon. But I've posted those updates on Facebook and we talk about it on our live stream on Wednesday nights at 7:30pm CST
Id bet almost anything its that rotary pump and it needs to be rebuilt. Im sure the injectors are fine. That's probably a bosch or a roso pump. They are not the best injector pump
Hank :) also Brando The Head Mechanic need raise in pay and plus big meal to eat each time Lol! I rate his work plus 100% to teach you every time get work with you Hank :) so you can Lol each too and teach more too!
▶️Watch the John Deere 310 Playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PLL...
💁🏻♂️Hamiltonville Farm MERCHANDISE: bit.ly/3pKO1aa
Just as a matter of interest Hank, what make is the injector pump, is it a Stanadyne?
Yes
whats your email I have the timing instructions for you
Thanks William...I got them from another viewer already. I appreciate your comment 👍have a good day!
Hank please check the fuel cut off solenoid before you pull the fuel pump - we had one sticking and only a small amount of fuel would flow through it. We had 12 volts going to it but it was not clicking open with the key switched on - we pulled the spring and plunger out and the tractor ran only draw back was it would not turn off with the key but we learned that instead of a new fuel pump we needed a $50 fuel cut off solenoid. It works just like a newer lawn mower with the cut off on the carb - great video and can't wait till yall get it going. Thanks for the great content
Thanks for the tip 👍
And the saga continues!!!
Hey Moe I mean Hank hope you read this comment before reinstalling the injectors. Since
you are there and the injectors are out take a compression test!?!?!?
Get the injection pump rebuilt you should have a pretty good spray of fuel when you bleed the lines at the injectors and when you spray starting fluid in it from the previous videos it fires off that a good sign that the pump needs to be rebuilt keep at it don’t let it bet y’all!
Thanks Jay!
I 100% agree
I also agree on rebuilding the pump
These rotary pumps hate sitting over long periods and, with diesel attracting moisture, you're on a hiding to nothing.
The workings inside your pump are fitted in laboratory style workshops, so fine and intricate are the parts.
Any moisture allowed into them can seize up a myriad of parts, any one of which will render your pump useless.
Haul her off and have her reconned but, before you do, ensure your engine is set spot on TDC and the pump timing Mark is also spot on, there ought to be a 'window' on the side of the pump with a small cover plate, make sure the 2 marks line up as TDC could be 180° out!! THEN, DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE AT ALL while the pump is off, disconnect the battery just in case!
If all this seems too much to handle, a mechanic should take no more than an hour to whip it off for you.
Good luck lads, you deserve it for your perceverance👍
Thanks 👍
Love your videos. Especially since I can watch them with my 4 year old son. He loves them too. Thank you for your awesome videos. We Always look forward to them.
Thanks Joe. Tell your son we said "howboutcha" 😊
Hank you can find the John Deer 310 backhoe spec. On the internet. I believe the fuel pump needs to be rebuilt and after see those injectors I would get them cleaned.
I think so too
If you’re going to pull injectors you should do a compression test but with weak fuel to injectors have the pump checked
Everyone needs a friend like Brandall.
💯
What we use to do the same thing is one of those spray jugs the pump up ones just put your fuel lines on it then you got it if you go out in the woods as well you don’t need 12 volt to run a pump
Right on 👍
This John deer just does not want to run of its own fuel pump and it sure is putting up a fight. Great work and can’t wait to see the next one. Thanks for sharing this with us take care
Thanks buddy. Cheers 👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm No problem bud 👍
Always good to see the Dynamic Duo at work. What y'all are doing is way above my pay grade but I enjoy watching anyway.
Lol. Above ours too. 😁
That should be spraying fuel a lot more than it is that injection pump needs rebuilt is my opinion
im sure you're right
100% agree, it seemed like it had the volume but nothing like the pressure. Gummed up/damaged delivery valves or pressure relief valve IMO, that orangey goop on the injectors could possibly be from a diesel bug infestation & if that's true the inside of the pump & injectors is likely to look just as cruddy. Looking forward to the next video, with the injectors clean & either rebuilt or swapped pump I'm confident it'll run
You don’t time that pump through the front cover. The 8mm allen plug on top is the timing hole. The you put a pin in the flywheel to set number one tdc
Thanks 👍
Rescued a 51 dozer once found fuel when left it will condensate and rust the inside of the pump and injectors if your bleeding fuel at the pump but not at the injectors you might blow air into the delivery lines and there is a timing needs tdc and marks on the pump line up
Thanks 👍
This “almost wants to start but won’t stay running” is very familiar to me. My issue was a leak in the fuel return line. Yes, I know this doesn’t supply fuel to the injectors, only returns excess fuel but, those diesel fuel systems need to be air tight throughout. As many air leaks that you’ve discovered I wouldn’t be surprised if you find a leak in the return system.
Thanks 👍
I was looking for this video, sounds like it has some deeper issues. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump, but it's a good idea to clean the injectors. Your doing a great job Hank, inspect the fuel pump. And after the injectors are clean. See if it will run. Hopefully you get it running, look forward to an update. 👍👍👍👍
We filmed more work on it yesterday. Video out soon👍
Check the spring in the fuel injection pump, seems to be the same issue I had in a Massey tractor.
Just put a injection pump on a John Deere 450d it had close to the same problem it would run but had 0 power but as soon as I replaced the injection pump it was night and day t did everything from flush the fuel system replaced the lift pump and injectors just do the injection pump and leave the shaft in there watch Wes work just did a video on the stanadine pumps
Cool. Thanks 👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm it’s very rare for the injection pump to slip timing the shaft is pressed into the gear on the side of the pump there will be a timing window with 2 flat head screws remove it and bar the engine over until the timing lines match up when they are lined up #1 should be at tdc on the compression stroke if it is not then it has slipped but when you remove the pump leave the shaft in the gear that will insure the engine stays timed it will have 2 umbrella seals on it that will need to be replaced so you do not get diesel in the engine oil. When re installing the new(or rebuilt pump) be careful with the first seal it will take a little persuasion to get it to go is as the lips of the seal will be facing the pump bushing but you will line the timing marks back up by turning the input grove inside the pump with a screw driver and then go through the bleeding process again the new or cleaned pencil injectors (which are not cylinder specific) will help but I do not believe that is the issue I am by no means a certified diesel mechanic but I have been around diesel and gas engines my whole life I hope this helps if I still lived in defuniak springs fl I would come help but I don’t and drive semi trucks now love y’all’s videos
Rod out your lines from the fuel pump to the injectors to ensure there is no blockage.
👍
Gene, there'd have to be one heck of a blockage to prevent fuel being injected. OK could possibly happen, but all four on the same engine? And with a healthy pump all it'd do is rupture the line in question. No harm in blowing through them make sure they're clear, mind. Rodding out not such a good idea as I'd be worried about scratching off a tiny bit of swarf that'd damage the injector.
Cool more videos please I'm not finished watching the old ones yet great video Hank thank you
if the valve sealing surfaces are rusty you will not get decent compression and it will not start!! also check the fuel shutoff on pump is working if its electric you should hear a click when power is applied.
Hi. The rotary fuel injector pump is the problem. 90% of the time moisture go into the solenoid causing it to get stuck. You can not just change the solenoid as it is also part of your calibration. The pump can be removed by timing it first. There is a Allen plug on the top middle. Takes 1/4 inch Allen key. There is a notch in the injector pump shaft. The notch needs to be in the centre and TDC lock pin on rhs bell housing hole. If both pins are in, you can remove. Same for fitment. Nut torque is 195nm. Also test and replace injectors? Pencil type disposable and relatively cheap. Also make sure you have good battery. Maybe jumper battery directly on starter. Don't put 12volt on pump solenoid. You will blow it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sounds like it’s more of the injector issue then you are thinking after they were pulled out they looked pretty gunky I can’t wait to hear that 310 run,,,, we had a 410 on our farm and it got used so much
We are getting closer!!
hola amigos como andan acá terminando mi trabajo veo que están con inyectores que no quiere arrancar están cambiando repuestos me gusta siempre lo solucionan y me gusta les mando un abrazo Marcelo de argentina
I've taken apart my injectors in my duramax and put them through my ultrasonic cleaner. Saved a couple that way, but once they get worn out, cleaning them actually made them worse.
Oh no!
I’d be really curious after you pull those injectors out what the John Deere repair center had to say about them... I have been following this video on this backhoe and I can’t wait to see you running thank you Hank
👍👍
If gunk on the injectors, drain & flush fuel tank then pump some clean fuel through.
Gotta love the standard metric adjustable hammer. Those o-rings are expensive because they are that special john deere rubber. I would get one of those cheap cameras and see what the cylinders look like since you have the injectors out. I would probably go ahead and take a peek under the valve cover since y'all are that close.
Thanks for the info!
Fuel pressure directly out of the fuel pump seems a bit weak. Probably a good idea to get the fuel pump serviced or rebuilt before installing the injectors.
Thanks for watching 👍
the pump has a timing place on the side. it will be a cap and when it is set u put it on with the engine tdc
Thanks 👍
never tried checking the power value on the pump. before you go spending money on a pump look into replacing the actuator first. at least take it out and clean it. they can stick and only be opening part of the way.
this machine is very stubborn. but you are going to put it to work. congratulations on the videos
Thanks 😊
cant believe no smoke at all. keep at it and you'll get her going
I know...Thanks buddy!
just pausing at 10:47, sounds to me that it's got plenty compression & it runs on ether. Also my "eye" for these things tells me the pump is timed right, from the pulses seen Vs compression strokes heard so I don't think it's timing.
Volume of fuel isn't an issue either, there looked to be plenty fuel coming out of the dizzy head & at the injectors you showed. It did look like maybe the pump wasn't generating enough pressure though, the pulses of fuel just didn't look "urgent" enough to my eye plus you're getting zero smoke at all. There's 2 possibilities IMO, excessive leak off through the injectors causing inability to build "pop" pressure (fairly unlikely that all 4 suddenly went bad to where they wouldn't even pop, could confirm by pulling a leak off pipe and checking for near as much fuel going out as the pump was putting in.)
Other more likely issue, for me, I'd say it's *got* to be crud or damage internally to the injection pump. Good luck with it, I know when it does run it'll be right for years with the effort you boys are putting in.
Thanks Dan👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm & if that lot doesn't get her, I've heard a company named Bryant & May make very good safety matches if you get me lol
It doesn’t sound like it’s cranking over very fast one thing to keep in mind is if the engine doesn’t crank fast enough it’s not going to build the pressure it needs to fire off. You may want to put a battery charger on next time if you didn’t already have one on.
Thanks 👍
Overhaul the fuel/injection pump. Say do they make an adjustable (crescent) line wrench?
Take those injectors to Deere and have them pop tested. They have a way to pressure them up and see if they will crack open at a certain psi. If not, they are junk, those are throw away injectors.
We ordered new ones 👍
I think that the fuel pump might be bad plus the fuel should be coming out faster than before
Boa noite o galão de plástico vc abastece os veículos qual nome dele marca pra comprar um aqui pra mim acho muito utel
That is at least a 3 Taco job with a 6-pack to wash them down!
Depending on the number of skinned knuckles.😁
😂
I am a mechanic of machines in Brazil. do you have a job there ?? 😂
congratulations on the channel 👏👏

Hey. First of all, remove the injectors and do a compression test. Listening to the “puffs” seems kind of weak. If the compression is good, remove the fuel injection pump also and test it. If this is good also, remove the timing cover and check timing. The tool for this is JD254A but you don’t need to buy it, just make one like this and use it to check timing.
It seems weird that sometimes you have smoke and sometimes you not so, I assume this has something to do with the injection pump pressure but I have given you all the steps to take before you move on :). Hope this helps
Thanks 👍
Now I know why I don't use Deere equipment at all since I just don't know it very well but from a diesel standpoint they don't do all that much different than most cummins engines i have been around.. Stanadyne fuel systems i have not been a big fan of either but there a lot of them out there in the world
I'm finding that out.
Hope that's all it is and y'all get it up and going! Have a good week Hank! See ya!
Thanks John. 👍
how ,much is the fuel usage per hour in the 310g? is the 92hp engine?
You gotta connect the kinnepty pin to the whatchamacalit to get fuel to the thingamabob to make the pop pop... and then dig holes 😂 great series for sure!! 🤘🏼
Gonna try that next😁👍
Good luck to you guys , I hope that you can get her running
Thanks Russell!
first your batteries are going dead from all the cranking. so you need to figure a way to keep them up.. if you do this a lot you may want to rig up a big battery with cables and a cut off switch on the post so you can just drop cables up to the different tractor battery posts..
second. i was watching an old cat training video. where they took the injectors out and reconnected the fuel lines with the injectors pointing straight up to see if the discharge is equal.. can you do that on the backhoe? with as many pre electronic injector diesels you work on.. you may want to figure out a way to pressurize the injectors with a mild solvent .. on youtube AvE found out a battery powered grease gun can putout 12,000 Psi. that might be great with a modified hose to force solvent thru injectors to check the spray pattern.
i also hear a leaking intake or exhaust valve seat.. the hissing noise from one intake or exhaust port while cranking..
is the solenoid inside the pump even opening? If not, that’s why no fuel is passing through.
There's a company that rebuilt fuel assemblies for "watch wes work". Can't remember their name but Wes did a video on the repair and testing procedures. Maybe a source of info...
Yeah I saw that video. We actually have a remanned one on the way. Should be here today and hopefully put in tomorrow
Did you remove the turbo and the headers?
Excellent video Hank :) so far I should have fuel pump a oval or rectangle square plate has 2 of 10 mm or 3/8 to 7/16 head bolts or screwdriver slot number 2 screws or number 2 star or 2 torque bit multi star or hex one to plate face to left body! Once get plate should have time marks one for engine front and back to should have in chrome color should be 1 & 1 then know timed right if off 90 both need Johnson bar engine to get them perfect straight plus pump off too to included! If don't have 1& 1 together be misfire or put tractor in gear to move to travel she stall out to shut down engine everytime! Also want perfect time all time gear got tear rad plus motor front apart off and lots hours doing that line up to do 6 gears !
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Any luck I'm having same issue on a 310x. Check same things you have buy I get a code for ecu. But entry of power to it. Weak fuel to injectors. And lifter pump has pressure for 3 or 3 pumps then weak
Still working on it. I'm putting the injectors and starter on this week. I'm sure I gotta rebuild/time the pump
Yo tengo un trascavo llondirre 310 c y no funciona la pompa del disel
We have a great John Deere dealership with a terrific repair department. If you would like to have the location, please ask me. I’ll be happy to share. Great show
Thanks Dean.
I can’t wait to see this machine running
Tiny bubble brings me cheer
That's it. Lol
Yep boot camp Great Mistakes Illinois
Have injection pump and injectors rebuilt
You should join our live stream on Wednesday nights at 7:30CST if you can. We talk a lot about what we've done and are gonna do. It's a fun time too😁👍
just my two cents but i think you need to get it to turn over faster maybe
bad ground cable
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My guess is that something gave up the ghost in the high pressure side of the injection pump, or something got clogged. Area Diesel seems to be really coming to the front on RUclips, might give them consideration.
Kinda wondering now if that fungus that grows in oil and diesel fuel isn't part of the problem ... guess you'll find out.
You should become really good friends with Bailey, so he makes sure Brian (bcbloc02) pays close attention to your predicaments with John Deere or Cummins equipment. Send him a big southern cured ham, specify that Bailey gets the bone ... yeah, that should do it. 😉
Thanks 👍
Hey Hank save some time and money remove the injection pump and take it with the injectors Buster Bailey from east Tennessee
I know that watch wes work just did a couple of these injection pumps and. Had a couple of them rebuilt.
thats right!
Well it is putting up a struggle bro but I'm sure you two will sort it out. Safe travels
I think so too. Thanks for watching 👍
There is a pin for the pump and the flywheel
Roger. We just got the tools in for that👍
How bout cha Hank, looks like you all are putting to cart before the horse there...your problem starts with the lift pump...that electric pump doesn't put out the volume the mechanical pump does..thats why it has low pressure coming out the injector pump..I'm no mechanic but I own equipment so I had to learn to troubleshoot, now those Deere J injectors are fairly inexpensive your wasting time getting them cleaned..since you got the injector out bring # TDC..it should be a bolt that needs to be removed to the fly wheel and you can check to see if the marks on the pump line up...you will need to turn the engine by hand.
Did y’all check the solenoid that letsdig mentioned in one of the comments I saw on another video? I don’t remember if you said it or not but have y’all checked the solenoid on the fuel pump to make sure it’s doing what it’s supposed to be when it’s supposed to be doing it? I’m sure y’all have just trying to think over other things besides a fuel pump. I don’t know if you said how many hours are on it, but I would think that fuel pump should last at least 8-10k hours with good clean fuel.
Yeah, we will replace the pump soon.
@@HamiltonvilleFarm that’s unfortunate, if the injectors weren’t stupid expensive I’d replace them as well just to eliminate that. Cause them injectors looked pretty bad.
Yeah the new ones should be here this week. I got Stanadyne injectors from TRI STATE up in Dothan. Not bad...like $50 each or somewhere around that price
@@HamiltonvilleFarm thats not bad at all I don’t think. Considering injectors for my 02 duramax was $200 a piece.
No! The only way to time ANY part of these engines properly is to rip into the front of the engine. Remove water pump and timing plate cover. This will give you complete access to the entire timing train.
Came over from BGM. New subscriber. You are awesome Sir.
Thanks much 👍
Wish I was closer to you i would help you out with it May God bless yall
right on!
Hey just a couple things I’m a Deere tech.
Your starter sounds really bad, I’d replace it. It’s cranking really slow, it’ll never start with it cranking that slow, the high pressure fuel is a DE10 there’s a port on the side of the pump that you can tap to check the internal transfer pump “inside the injection pump” if the pressure is below 25 psi it won’t start, the timing put the engine on TDC #1 there’s a plug on top of the injection pump that has place for a timing pin, then remove the front cover and you’ll need the pump push off tool to get the pump off the gear.
So in short I’d replace the starter and injection pump and injectors
Good luck!
Thanks!
When are u putting the injectors in
I pick them up today. Join us on Wednesday nights at 7:30pm CST for our LIVE stream we talk a lot about it.
If you can I would run a compression test on the cylinders.
Thanks 👍
Forgot the biggest part about the adjustable wrench it's also a hammer lol
And a Swedish Nut Lathe!
Lol. Yep
plus when used as such, they invariably contain the worlds most accurate thumb-detector :/
If you would hook 2 batteries positive to positive and negative to negative you will still have only 12 volts. But you will have enough amps to turn the engine at the proper speed. I have a 310 g and they came from the factory with two batteries. I have mentioned this before and watched every episode. The injection pump is never going to put out enough pressure to open a injecter until it’s turning the proper rpm. Good luck.
Thanks for watching 👍
What you should do is work on the throttle i think the throttle is stuck in the closed postition
Thanks 👍
Need this job
you are getting a drip but that pump should have pressure to fire the enjectors
agreed
Man if your getting the injectors cleaned I'd just get the injector pump rebuilt as well.
I'm sure we will 👍
When it running and working that Gina birthday present a upgrade from the little one u got her
Lol. Yep
Well they are getting high tech but they are my folks so buen trabajo my amigo.
Gracias 😊
Its the injection pump brother get it rebuilt not enough pressure out of the lines
Thanks 👍
I want to see a Cresent wrench Holster Hank Lol.
😁😂
I think it's the ejector pump.
Thanks for watching 👍
Good work fellas!
🤙
How hard is it to get that hood off?
Two bolts. But hasn't been in the way too much
Cheers great video k think is pump ..
Thanks for watching 👍
Howboutcha guys, sure is a puzzler. 🤯🤯🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧🇺🇸
It's getting closer
@@HamiltonvilleFarm hats off at releasing those injectors, they can be a right pain! 🙏🙏🇺🇸🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧
Sounds to me like the start is dragging and not turning over near fast enough to start
It was probably in the editing. ...it was a strong battery when we first started filming.
If it were me I’d replace the starter sounds weak to me
Make sure you have your notification bell turned on and follow us on Facebook. We have replaced the starter. That video will be out soon. But I've posted those updates on Facebook and we talk about it on our live stream on Wednesday nights at 7:30pm CST
Is that an adjustable (left handed)metric crescent wrench, 🔧 is the real question Hank 🤣
Indeed it is!
Tommy already placed the backhoe on Marketplace lol 😆 😂
Lol. If he knew how to work facebook, you might be right 😂😂
@@HamiltonvilleFarm 😂😂
Is the pump out of timing
here's when the tech came out: ruclips.net/video/eVR5ZtVC6RE/видео.html
Id bet almost anything its that rotary pump and it needs to be rebuilt. Im sure the injectors are fine. That's probably a bosch or a roso pump. They are not the best injector pump
The injectors are bad, I had to buy new ones. The pump is a Stanadyne. I'll replace it soon. Thanks for watching 👍
Hank :) also Brando The Head Mechanic need raise in pay and plus big meal to eat each time Lol! I rate his work plus 100% to teach you every time get work with you Hank :) so you can Lol each too and teach more too!
😁
I keep hoping that it WILL start....as a matter of fact, when y'all get finished, it will! I'm confident! 😀 Positive attitude! 👍🔧
Fingers crossed!
keep up the good work
Thanks for watching!
I haven't heard tiny bubbles in a while now lol.
Lol
The battery was getting weak the engine wasn’t fast enough to smoke or create fuel pressure
Thanks for watching 👍
Great video!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Rabbit hole is right. Pull the injection pump and have it tested before the injectors. You are not getting enough fuel.
Thanks 👍