Everyone HATES this & now I know why! 🤬 Jungle King part 2 🦁🌴 classic Taito linear power supply +CPO
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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Never before seen on RUclips, Charlie attempts to rebuild a classic Taito linear power supply for his Jungle King restoration. Are you curious as to WHY no one has ever done a video like this before? Well... are ya??? Charlie also slaps a bright, shiny, new reproduction CPO onto the control panel. YEE HAW!
Episode #83
Find me on the KLOV forums as CharlieG: forums.arcade-...
Follow Overtime Arcade on Twitter: / overtimearcade
Watch The Coin Jam Podcast on RUclips: • The Coin Jam Podcast or listen on your favorite podcast platform: anchor.fm/coinjam
Thanks & Shout-outs to:
Photoboy @randomfungames3208
Del @delsarcade
Tools & parts used in this video (contains affiliate links)...
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Jungle King reproduction Control Panel Overlay (CPO) thisoldgame.co...
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Classic Taito Linear Power Supply Rebuild Kit (08-00007-001) -- parts listing & links to where you can buy them (see attached PDF): forums.arcade-...
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Theme Music Credit: "Synthwave 80s" by AlexiAction (used with permission under the Pixabay License) pixabay.com/mu...
Additional Music Credit: "Flames" by Dan Henig (used with permission under the RUclips Audio Library License) • Flames
Additional Music Credit: "Wrong" by Dan Henig (used with permission under the RUclips Audio Library License) • Wrong
#arcades #restoration #arcaderestoration #retrogaming #arcadegames #arcadecabinet #classicgaming #mancave #taito #regret
This channel is my new John's Arcade. You need to make better thumbnails, they are all over the place right now, you need to find a style and stick with it. Sometimes it is hard to identify your videos from the rest of my feed.
Thanks so much for the kind words, Martin! I'll try to set up my game with the quality and consistency of thumbnails. Are there any examples that you prefer in particular?
@@overtimearcade if you want i can help you, i love doing thumbnails
@@overtimearcade I shared with you a google presentation with ideas, i'm still working on it.
@@overtimearcade ok I finished, let me know if you like it, if you need the PSD files i can share them with you.
Thanks for your help with all this, Martin!
Hey Charlie… I do not know if it is pertinent in this case… But I do know for a fact that some power supplies will not work without a load. You should always test power supplies loaded.
Holy moly, I think I figured it out!! And it was something that no one suggested in the comments! 😱
By the way, THANKS SO MUCH FOR BECOMING A CHANNEL MEMBER, Sean!!!
those heavily charred areas on the board may have gone conductive, the carbon tracking will work against you at times, I have a $1500 Marshall head sitting until I can afford a new mainboard because of this
Good suggestion!
You should check the service manual for qix or maybe other games that use this power supply. It explains the regulators and how to adjust the overcurrent pots. It does appear that the crowbar is kicking in. You should check parts in the line of the voltage feedback ie r21 and c10 for the 5v line. Make sure those arent shorted to gound somehow. You should replace the pots if you havent yet because they can cause goofy intermittent problems. The 5v and 12v lines are independent from eachother for the most part so if one of those crowbars, it doesnt mean the other automatically will. The only way i could see the two affecting eachother is if f2 blows then the 5v side would lose its source for biasing its series pass transistors, also thr regular ic wouldnt be powered
Yep, I'm still messing with this thing, but replacing the pots is definitely on the todo list!
I think it's one or more of the big electrolytic caps. They filter mains line noise and they smooth ripple on the DC side. Just guess-timating here, based on vintage radio repair. Professor Wings says: There are three basic things I check on caps. First is capacity. Second is ESR (equivalent series resistance). The third is rarely mentioned. This is equivalent PARALLEL resistance. It's like putting a resistor across the cap leads. In really bad cases, it's like shorting out the cap entirely. As caps age, they start to leak current internally because the electrolyte dries out. Older electrolytic caps have an age limit, maybe 10-15 years. This will be shown in the spec sheets. Physically, they may look new but as they age they start to gradually act more like resistors.
When you first power it up, the caps aren't charged. Same when you turn it off and let it sit, the caps drain. When you reapply power, the caps take a second or so to charge, so you get 5.7 VDC. When they are fully charged, it seems like they are leaking current. So, the fully charged caps may be acting as shunts, dragging down your 5 &12 VDC. Caps are relatively inexpensive. They would have been one of the first items I would have replaced, say I, as I preach from my arm chair quarterback position! 🙂Also, consider reflowing all the solder joints, just for luck! Thanks for the great videos. You have one of the best intros! It looks great on my LG OLED TV!
Thanks so much for the kind words and thoughtful suggestion! I'll look into the filter caps but I'm also suspecting the crowbar circuit since 5.77VDC is very close to the trigger of 5.8VDC specified in the manual.
If that were the case, the cap should start heating up after leaving the power on for a while, turning up the current limit pots might make it heat faster. If it were enough leaking to drag the 5v down that low it would probably pop F1 before you see a drop in voltage. Same with the 12v side which is fed by a separate winding, BR and filter cap.
I'd guess it's something else, but I've never fixed one of these before. Let's hope my qix keeps trucking along.
@@Tr3vor42532 Now that you mention it, if the caps were electrically leaking enough to drag the voltages down, they would probably heat up and blow a fuse. Good point!
Hi Charlie!
I have a special content request, which while it may not correspond with your current project(s), would still be of great interest to me; I have an interest in the workings of coin doors. I understand the functions of the various parts including the coin mech, and credit switch,etc., but where I'm a little fuzzy is the relationship between the coin mech (which I understand is an *almost* universal part, because Nintendo *had* to be different...🤨), and the different styles of coin doors from different manufacturers - For example, a standard coin mech can be transferred between an Atari 'owl-eyes' coin door, and a Midway coin door with horizontal coin slots, and a Suzo-Happ coin door with vertical 'Push to Reject' coin slots, which brings me to the question of how a coin door with multiple coin slots (and presumably multiple coin mechs) can have a single coin reject button...
Any insight you might be able to provide would be very much appreciated!
A side note; I've been working on a project that I'd like to share with you, and send you some pictures, and get your honest opinion... Is there a preferred email address to which pictures can be sent?
And finally, have you given any more consideration to the PVC frame multi-function sanding enclosure/paint booth/murder room I proposed some time ago...?😛
Great questions, Dave!
I'm no expert on coin doors or coin mechs per se, but as I understand it there's basically two kinds of coin mechs: standard/universal coin mechs and Nintendo/Asahi coin mechs. Nintendo always liked doing their own thing, and they still do! But even with the standard coin mechs, some coin doors require the screw-on nubs to be mounted on the coin mech for installation, while others don't. So that's something that can trip you up sometimes.
The only cabinet I have with multiple coin slots and a single coin reject button is my Defender cab with the older-style silver coin door. On that one, the single coin reject button manipulates a lever arm that actuates the coin reject lever of all three coin mechs simultaneously. I'll be sure to include some close-up details of all that later in the Defender restoration series.
My email address is available in the About section on the main channel page, and you can always PM me on the KLOV forums where I go by CharlieG. There's also the private members-only Discord server that you should be able to access as a channel member (thanks for your support, by the way!).
And although it might be fun to make a mvrder room similar to the one Liam put together on the Retrobotics channel, I've been doing ok for now with painting/sanding out in the yard on a nice day!
This was so much wasted effort, the first thing you should have done is checked for shorts to ground on each of the voltage rails to ground. Secondly tantalum capacitors will fail and their fail mode is they short. You should have tested those first before doing anything else.
I am sorry that I have failed you. I did find two shorted parts though.
@@overtimearcade I'm just saying you should try and find the problem first. The transistor certainly was bad but there area few things you should have done before just replacing everything.
@@tigheklory @overtimearcade Speaking of transistors: I had replaced a power regulating one a few years back on an old Robotron computer (made in East Germany, build like a tank) and was wondering why nothing worked after that, although at first glance both transistors had very similar specs. It had been quite irritating to learn, that the replacement transistor was switching ever so slightly too fast for the rest of the circuit.
Too fast? Wow!
Can’t wait to see this game restored in all its glory. Thanks for the shout out as well!
Thanks for all your help with parts and everything!!!
You've come this far, swap out the caps and any other component you haven't already done.
I would then set the adjustment pots to minimum before switching on then gradually bring the voltages up, that way you'll know if the protection circuit is kicking in too early? Replace the plastic spacers on the transistors too if it's gonna be inexpensive to do. Stick with it man, you will crack it eventually.. Just keep on diggin!
Don’t worry, I haven’t given up yet!! I have tried turning the pots to minimum - the 5v comes up at about 3.6v before dropping to 0.9v after a couple seconds. I’ve also temporarily removed the mounting screws from the TO-220 transistors and lifted them from the heat sinks, with no change in behavior. I’ve still got a few tricks up my sleeve yet!
My guess is those capacitors. Once they charge up that is when they fail (after the first second or two of being powered on they work) this seems like the exact issues I had on another power supply I worked on. Once you have the power off for awhile the caps discharge and then it's back to working for the first couple of seconds on powering on and then failure. You owe me a coke if that is your issue..LOL. Looking forward to the next video. Great job trying to save an original!
Thanks! Replacing the filter caps is on my todo list, although I'm not seeing any AC ripple on them.
Taito = "タイトー" which is basically "tah-ee-toh" but pronounced fast enough where it still basically comes out sounding like "tie-toh", even in Japanese
Cool, thanks - I’ll try to remember to pronounce it “tie-toh” from now on!
modern capacitors you can replace most tan'ts with ceramics, I hate tantalums ... heck in the automotive industry (where I work) they are blacklisted from most companies
Ceramic capacitors have different behavior and you really shouldn't replace them with ceramic. In particular, don't replace electrolytic capacitors with ceramic.
Taito power supplies are the worst of the worst, it’s very easy to just use a switching power supply with an adaptor. Used it for my elevator action and it works great
I know, I know... but oRiGiNaliTy!
Charlie those plastic spacers on those transistors is a must there actually designed to electrically isolate the base if its shorted together then will cause symptoms like your having, also those look like 5w big white chonker resistors can go short also check those transistors with no spacers if there shorted to each other first. :)
Good suggestion! I temporarily removed the mounting screws and lifted all four of the TO-220 transistors off of the heat sinks, and I'm still seeing the same behavior. The big white ceramic resistors all test ok too.
@@overtimearcade some solder bridges bleh good to see got that sorted mate , any psu see some plastic sheets or bushings we call them spacers Aussie land :P , there a must its meant to isolate base of the transistor to emitter and collector . and you cant have 2 bases shorting to each other linear psu's easy to fix but pain the back side :P
Good thing I have more than a lifetime's supply of these things now! 🤣
Get rid of those yellow tantalum caps first, those things always go short.
Even the brand new tants?
@@overtimearcadeOh sorry, no, new ones will be fine but those old ones always fail.
Also, I’m not familiar with that power supply but have you checked the wiring diagram to make sure it doesn’t need some return sense wires connected for it to function properly ?
@simonhanlon7518 Replacing the old tants is one of the first things I did. There’s no sense circuit per se, but I do suspect an issue with the crowbar circuit(s) on the power supply.
@@overtimearcade Right ok. I would connect a 5w 12v car bulb to each of the voltage outputs and then see how it runs. If it’s anything like the earlier Taito supplies it will need a load to work properly.
I know you're an 80s arcade guy, but many people were 90s arcade kids too. They are all grown up now. At some auctions, 1990s cabinets are more in demand than 80s cabinets. The 90s kids are all grown up and buying their cabinets now. These people are hungry for 90s focused arcade content.
You have a golden opportunity to draw in a new audience, and expand your RUclips channel - if you try restoring 1990s arcade machines too.
Arcade Machines like Mortal Kombat, Ridge Racer, Daytona USA, Street Fighter, Time Crisis, Virtua Racer, Neo Geo, etc. The 90s had so many great hits.
If you made dedicated repair videos, then I'm sure new fans would come to your channel and help it grow. Your subscribers would go way up.
Well, you’re in luck… last weekend, I picked up a 90s game to restore… but it’s not any of the titles you listed… 🦖