An industrial electrician here. I always strip my wires after inserted in the box with a pocket or utility knife . I guess different ways for different folks.
I work a part time retirement job in electrical at Home Depot. When I see a customer with a light fixture that has been opened I offer to reopen the box for them to make sure everything is ok and all the parts are in the box so the customer will not have have to come back to the store with defective product. There is nothing worse than having to make many trips to the store for replacement parts.
DWV is used only for that purpose (drain, waste, vent) Vent does not mean bathroom exhaust fan vent. If the pipe will be going thru an unconditioned space, it should be insulated to prevent condensation on the outside and water build up on the inside. Bathroom vent fans are exhausted either thru insulated flex pipe or insulated metal duct. This is pretty much standard in the US.
Take a hint from an old IBEW electrician. Never ever use 14 gauge wire in your house. 1. You are limited to any a #15 amp breaker on that circuit. 2. You never know what the future will bring. So a #12 gauge wire gives you 20 amps of power. The additional cost of money is negligible in the big scheme of wiring your house.
I am a retired electrician. The plugs that are accessible in the garage area should be GFCI protected, except for a permanent freezer plug, which should be unprotected. If it was GFCI protected and tripped off for some unknown reason, you would possibly lose the contents of the freezer. Glen from Texas
You went to the trouble of putting guard plates on the studs to protect your pex pipes but you didn't do the same to protect the wires you have running through studs where you could easily drive a drywall screw right into your wire or a nail driven into the wall to hang a shelf or any number of other projects.
Jesse, it will really help you to get used to holding your hammer down at the end of the handle. It may feel unwieldy in the beginning but you have a lot of hammering to do and it will greatly increase your speed and effectiveness.
They may not be required in your country but here in the UK if you put a hole in a stud to run electric cable you have to put a steel plate either side to stop drywall screws / nails penetrating the cables. I noticed you have done that for the water but not for the electric.
can't believe the amount of money that is being wasted with all of the extra wire that is being pulled into the boxes. Wow, that is a lot of money going onto the floor. Only need to pull at max a foot out of the box, not 3 to 4 feet.
I love your channel I’m a plumber in Massachusetts we have codes for everything lol. The Drain waste and vent Pipe can be used for sewer as well that’s what the waste part is. When the pipe says DWV only that means you can’t use it to vent out a gas water heater or appliance
Looking good. One recommendation on your hammering skills. Move your hand to the butt end of the handle or cut it off. You will do less hammering using the whole handle then choking-up on the handle. A lesson I learned from my father when he was building his own house. Keep up the great work and attention to detail.
Better learn where to hold the hammer. Also where are the extra wire “loops” out of the boxes Incase more wire needs to be pulled later. Won’t pass code in many places
A little crazy...all of the wires should have been pulled up through the top plate and then dropped down from above to the boxes. You made swiss cheese out of all of your studs. Best to practice in the garage though I guess. I suppose you now know that the "V" in DWV is a plumbing vent, not a fan vent ;-).
Please PLEASE PLEASE stop stripping and then putting the wire in the box. I'm a Licensed electrician that is the son of a Master Electrician. you have to have a MINIMUM of 1/4" of sheeting on NM wire inside the box. Just push the wire into the box. take your box cutter and follow the center wire, (on 12/2 NM ((romex is a brand not a type of cable) it will be the Ground)) pull out to the end, Pull the wires up and the sheeting down. use the razor to cut the sheeting off. This leaves you more than enough wire to work within the box and allows you to have undoubtedly enough sheeting to protect the THHN conductors inside from damage. All you are doing is wasting time and risking damage by doing it the way your "electrician" told you to do. whoever you've contacted sounds like an Apprentice.
some of the things he is doing are very very wrong and dangerous. He practiced with a professional for flying instructions instead of just "winging it". Should have done the same for electric
Jessie, will you please stop using the wire cutter on your strippers to remove the romex jacket?! You are not deft enough to prevent cutting into the insulation on the induvidual conductors and you've already caused one short (albeit in low voltage) and do not need more. Get a romex stripper already!
That tool is designed to be used exactly the way he is using it. He isn't using wire strippers as you think of it. That tool is formed to precisely fit around the wires inside the cable and score/shear the jacketed insulation so it can be pulled off.
I keep saying it..... Jesse get yourself a tool bag that goes on your hips, on a belt, buy one for carpentry and one specifically for electrical, you will save so much time. Why is it that every pro uses tool belts/pouches? Level up dude! Love the channel. Cheers from Tokyo!
Drain, WASTE, Vent. What do you call waste, excess newpapers? Drain is from your sink, Waste if from you toilet, vent is your sewer gases through your roof. You do not need Sch 40 to vent your bathroom fan! No, the plumbers didn't fall asleep yet, they are still laughing. I have a lot of respect for your journey, but you are learning a lot of useless info but skipping all the relevant information; especially when you are doing electrical work and say "I think I can do that" about 20 times. Just keep in mind you are passing on incorrect information to a lot of beginners that think youtube has all the answers.
He's trying to slow the drill. Wood bits operate best at a lower rpm. That Milwaukee drill runs 1750+ rpm, and the 3/4 wood bit works best in spruce/pine at 500-1000 rpm.
I put my bath vent right over the shower once. It makes taking a shower kind of cold. It sucks the steamy air out for sure, but it pulls the cooler air right past you. Much better to put the vent out in the room so the shower stays nice and warm.
13:44 Those holes are very close to the inside corner, and it's difficult to put protection plates there. For future, you should keep the wire in the center, even if it means getting creative with drilling. Also, don't run the wire straight into the box (16:40), you should put a curl in the wire that forms a drip loop so that if it ever does get wet it drips away from the box. This is code in Alberta, and they will fail an inspection if you don't have drip loops (and they are very difficult to add after the fact, LOL). I know you're working with different codes, but it's a good idea anyhow.
Best thing about standards is that everyone can have one :) I get amazed and a bit scared when I see the electric installation. It's very different from the code in Europe. Keep it up, take care and stay safe.
So, let me see if I got this correct, your going to use the top/ceiling of the bathroom for storage, i.e., put a load on it, and using 2" in. X 4" in. studs instead of 2" in. X 6" in. giving you much needed room for the plumbing of the fan. Just couldn't sacrifice that additional 2" in., via a 2" in. X 6" in. O.k., got it. That dog doesn't hunt.
Man, oh man. Jesse, you guys have had an amazing journey so far. You've learned a lot and made due with quite a few things. But your electrical prowess scares me. Most of the complaints regarding wasted material are dumb. Romex is only 20 cents a foot. I'm not worried about that. I'm worried about your code violations that are legitimate safety concerns. Your lack of afci and gfci's, mismatched ampacity between cable and breakers, etc. Please, get an nfpa chapter 70 and read it. Or just give me a call I'm only 4 hours away. I'll help you for nothing more than room and board.
Jesse, Please, please, please, take him up on this. It's not too late. It's not worth the risk. It's not a light subject. I am a very capable builder and I do engineering type work for a living I would not try to brute force your way through this. Electrical wiring s a very specific type of mental muscle that does not overlap other disciplines much for its rules. It's more difficult than it seems to do it to code. There are very good reasons why the code is the way it is. The more I study it the more I realize I what I thought I knew was wrong-headed.
It's been awesome watching this complete journey. I am an aspiring electrician so watching someone take their time and really want their finished project to be 100% is very respectable. One thing I will say is get yourself a good pair of Klein (or what ever brand you prefer) cable cutters. With the amount of romex you will be cutting, you will save your strippers for their actual job. Keep up the great work! Love seeing the progress!
I really hope American wire does not have the same polymers as the ones we have in the UK ... In the UK we are to avoid all contact with anything Polystyrene at all costs, so like your ICF blocks cable should not come into contact with that under any circumstances unless it's in a metal conduit. The problem is that the polymers that make the PVC cable flexible in UK cable react with polystyrene, this make the cable very brittle in a relatively short period of time as the polymers transmigrate. This brittleness can lead to the PVC wiring cracking and the insulation failing over time which is also a potential fire hazard.
Really thats weird so like they cant spray foam the wires? From what I know there isnt much that will eat through the plastic jacket. We usually only use the metal wire or mc/bx for commercial applications and where the wire is subject to damage
why do you hold the hammer like that its like you have never held a hammer hold it like a man and you wouldnt have to hit the nail so much if you used the hammer properly and hold it on the end and use its leverage
The joist bay is your friend..... why drill out all those vertical studs. Drill the top plate above the electrical panel, drill the top plate above all the device boxes and drill a set a holes in the joist perpendicular to the electrical panel and pull the wire much easier . Saw you installing #14 wire and #12 into the three gang switch box. If you have two circuits in that box you are required to connect in the panel on a two pole breaker which are hard to come by as a 15A & 20A. A little late now, but I would of suggested installing a sheet of 5/8” plywood to the exterior wall side of your mechanical space and slap the panel there. Would of made things a lot easier for the long run. Room for future access, expansion and other electric and communications equipment.
Just buy a case of 18 Cubic Inch boxes. You'll use them all over. 20 CI are better for 20 amp circuits. 18's are 3" deep. Your ICF's are 2 1/2". Perfect depth. Just cut the foam out to the concrete and anchor it to the concrete with a TAPCON. I used a CHEAP electric chainsaw, drilled a hole at 2 1/2" from the tip of the chain to the center of the hole. By the time you put a bolt (I used 5?16') in, it stops the chain just short of the concrete. I used a timer switch that looks like a conventional switch but has a settable delay for shut off of the fan.
I admire a lot about you and your project, however - lately, you have been developing a bad habit of giving bad information on subjects you admit you are not familiar with. ABS is still the standard pipe for sewar drains in California and most of the west - usually a bit cheaper than PVC, which I've seen on projects in the eastern part of the country ("waste" = sewer). Just because there is a glue that will stick to both, doesn't mean you'd mix them on a project, normally.
? Sounds like you might need to contact an electrician? I believe you know nothing about electrical work. You should put each branch circuit on its own breaker. Except something that runs on 240v. Then it would be a double pull breaker. Wow I usually keep my mouth shut. But this is crazy scary.
The plug that you're wanting to put next to the bathtub I wouldn't put it there it's too close to water. Regardless or it being on a GFI circuit and the garage plugs should be on separate 20 amp breakers not double poles.. so if one breaker trips not both of them trip
Was going to say something but it's pointless. He doesn't read these. Also, people think GFIs will prevent them from getting electrocuted. Not true. If all misdirected current flows back thru the associate neutral the GFI won't sense any difference and won't trip. After watching this I wonder what those SIPs are going to look like when they finish wiring and plumbing upstairs. Did they even plan for any vertical chases? It supposedly is a timber frame. Again, still no collar ties holding the roof down and no siding yet??! Seriously? They've lost sight of the proper construction sequence. That exterior OSB is taking a beating from exposure to sun and rain and temp swings. Focus shifted to moving in ASAP.
Cut last inch of outer insulation along conductor. Pull insulation from conductor up to one inch from box. Use knife or flush cutters to cut away from conductor. Magic
yikes! 2 x 6 framing on the ceiling would have given you the necessary clearance for the fan vent conduit/fittings as well as been stronger when it comes to supporting the overhead storage load load. Probably too late now I'm guessing. Damn!
*Sewer is a DRAIN! DWV (Drainage Waste Vent) is NOT used for a Liquid under Pressure!* *A PVC well pipe or irrigation pipe could be PVC PR200 (Check the Class CL) which appears to be wimpier that SCH40 PVC DWV but is rated to 200 PSI*
Use 3" sheet metal pipe for the venting. Cheaper, fits better, and still reasonably durable. There are exhaust hoods available for the outside as well.
Unless those strippers you are using are specially made to strip the Romex sheathing that we don’t have up here in Canada you have probably nicked every signal live and neutral cable inside. If this is the case you will have to re-wire everything. (Certified Electrician for over 30 years)
I think they're something like this: www.kleintools.com/catalog/klein-kurve/klein-kurve-dual-nm-cable-strippercutter Klein used to make them in separate yellow and blue versions for 12 and 14 gauge which is what I have. They work well and don't nick conductors if you're reasonably careful. They also have one specifically for Canada: www.kleintools.com/catalog/klein-kurve/klein-kurve-dual-nmd-90-cable-strippercutter
We used an electric chainsaw to cut the wire route for our romex in the ICF. It’s fast and easy. The cut is just the right size even if it is a little rough.
www this address and purchase one of these outer sheath wire strippers. Your present method is not recommended because it is too easy to nick a wire. A nicked wire reduces the actual gauge of the wire and creates a hot spot. This kind of stripper can be used inside a box to reach in and strip off the vinyl sheath as well - no pre stripping. The proper tools of residential wiring are a pair of side-cutters, an insulation stripper like you already have and one of these casing strippers. With these 3 tools you can do everything properly. www.rona.ca/en/cable-stripper
Home run your garage plugs, and use EMT on the walls to run wire's in or the Gray PVC instead of trying to mess with the icf's with running wires. Easier to do. Max outlet boxes is about 10 per circuit 20 amp or 15 amo because most folks arnt going to use them all at the same time. Try to figure out what you are going to have used on those outlets and adjust accordingly.
Dryer and washer need to be at 3ft bathroom boxes need to be at 42 to bottom of box outlets 20 to top of boxes. And I see you did a 14-2 in the bathroom 3 gang you can't have a 14 on a 20 amp
Brotha, just use a razor knife to strip the wires, just make sure you are in the middle and have just the tip going into it. then cut the sheathing right at the inside top of the box where the wire comes through
A friend used to choke his hammer handle near the eye the way you did at minute 19:21. His journeyman took the hammer and cut it off so he would hold it at the end of the handle where he should hold it. LOL
If you used proper romex strippers, you'd be able to strip the outer insulation after you'd inserted it into the box plus there would be lest chance of cutting the inner insulation
Jesse, you need to hire a qualified electrician. If you're lucky, you might find one to help you with a layout plan then teach you how to do wiring correctly. You've wasted a lot of wire when daisy-chaining outlets would have saved wire and simplified the installation, put single duplex boxes when it's always smart to put double duplex outlets in a box - or be able to have a switch and a duplex outlet in the same box if you want to add something later. I also noticed your lack of gfi protection. I am an industrial electrician, so not very familiar with residential electrical codes, but I would have EVERY source of power for your bathrooms, laundry area, and kitchenette protected with proper ground fault outlets or breakers. I also noted others commenting about the placement of your ceiling vent fan - it makes sense to me that it should not be directly over the shower but nearer the commode. I also think you might be wise to have a complete plumbing plan as early as possible to keep venting and plumbing both code compliant and at as low cost as possible. You are a pretty handy guy and I admire your effort - but it takes years of training and experience to be a competent tradesperson. There is a reason for that. One question: why that tubing for the plumbing? You know those clamps are gonna' rust and you're going to have leaks later on. It's very expensive, but IMHO properly insulation-wrapped copper pipe is the way to go.
Too late now but there is a special stapler for round cable like internet, cable for the temperature sensor, etc. Uses rounder head staples that leaves space without crimping the wire.
I think what you are looking for is "Duct or Ducting" as in "HVAC" Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning AKA the mechanical trade. I am not saying you can not use PVC or ABS for a fart fan as long as you can terminate it with a back draft damper. In fact I think it is a much better product than spiral duct. OK that said "DWV" Drain Waste and Vent refers to the plumbing trade. The ez way to think about it is using a "San-Tee" Up is the Vent, Down is the Waste and the side let out with the curve pointing down is the drain. 1)"D" Drain is from the branch arm to the fixture, it is the pipes coming out the wall with the trap in a sink but also concealed like in a tub or shower but it's the branch arm out. 2) The "W" waste starts at the branch arm and carries water and waste down to the sewer, The sewer begins just outside of the building and continues to you sewer system or holding tank etc. 3) "V" Vent again starts at the branch arm but goes up through the roof. it does not carry water or waste it balances the system atmospheric air and keep the nasty sewer gases out of the building.
Sadly, our comments here are usually a month or so too late and have no value to them as a result. A lot of mistakes are made way before we comment here, "IF" they even read them, I have yet to see a response to any of them!
Waste = Sewer. It's just a more polite and PC word. ABS used to be cool but usually began to fail after some time underground. But guess what? It was wwaayy better than clay or cast iron. Well done once again. Let's get some drone in garage video. I think you can program it.
I think you once said, that you DON'T read the comments. You SHOULD READ THE ADVISE FROM EXPERIENCED ELECTRICIANS below. I've admired your tenacity to "get 'er done", but you research always seems a little short. You talk about researching things before you start, but you obviously haven't read a decent "How To Wire" book, judging from numerous rookie mistakes. A few tips from your electrician is NOT sufficient knowledge to do your own wiring. (1) NO ELECTRICAL PLAN (?) Required almost everywhere. That sub-panel should have been on an outside wall. (2) That garage outlet run should be a 3-wire circuit using 12/3+G, which will allow you to have two 20 amp circuits and also a 220 plug wherever needed needed for any shop tools that run on it (220 uses both legs) - but READ how to wire a 3-wire circuit. (3) It looks like those two little rooms are OVERwired. 14 wire will limit you to 15 amp breakers. Number 12 gives you 20 amps. So 14 is OK for lighting circuits, but I haven't wired with less than 12 in 50 years. Other amateurs - should NOT use this as a reference. Because you are using Romex instead of flex-conduit, any mistakes will be buried in the wall and require opening the wall again to fix it. That's why I've used flex ever since the first house I wired. Romex is only cheaper until you need to make changes after drywall. That is a big negative of SIPS.
hey Jesse, do yourself a favor and buy one more of the exact same bathroom exhaust fan for every 5 years that you plan on living in the house. that way when the fan fails and it will, all you have to do is swap out the guts to the fan and leave the housing in place. that way you don't have to tear out the ceiling to replace the housing. and we all know that fixture housings will change design in the next year or two. might save you time and heartache. lovin' the journey thanks for the ride along. jim in florida
How to make a simple bathroom install into the most technically complicated project - building code says you are limited to 3 cables per 1" hole. o.k. so make it larger. I am starting to get bored with the OCD aspect. This is their first 'room' with more timber than a Swedish Sauna for the walls for what should a simple downstairs bathroom.. The convoluted plastic-weld plumbing will be the downfall along with the plastic crimp clipped hot/cold hoses for the supplies - all hidden behind the dry-wall plasterboard when it eventually gets installed. A word to the wise - stick with proven accepted standards - either solder or use compression copper pipes and fittings
Boy, there are a lot of comments. I scanned them and saw none about potential problems running 14/3 wire and AFCI circuits breakers. Shared neutral wire in the 14/3 will not work with normal AFCI breakers. I think you said you have a Siemens breaker box. Maybe a Siemens breaker Q215AF will work... or use 14/2/2 wire. About using one GFI outlet and feeding all the down stream outlets from it, I suggest that you do not do it spend the money and put a GFI outlet at each location. Yes, it works and is code but I cannot tell you how many times I have been called out for outlet not working only to figure out that there is a GFI out up stream causing the problem
Leave an extra few inches of wire out of the boxes, after the staple. You can cut the outer sheathing for the 6 inches you need and push the extra back out of the box. I prefer the metal boxes with the integrated screw type strain relief, you can loosen the screw to pull in more wire if you ever need it. Stripping the wire is easy with an Olfa knife, using the bare center ground wire as a guide, so you don't knick the insulation on the conductors. I also like to run all my power feed wires from the bottom of the box, so you know which are the hot or feed wires after the drywall is on. Also, hope you insulate the bathroom and mechanical room before you close in all the drywall. The insulation will help keep the heat if the power goes out, keep your hot water hotter, longer, as it moves to the faucet, and act as a sound barrier. For your fan, use aluminum or galvanized snap pipe and flex elbows. That is what should be used along with aluminum tape (not gray duct tape), to seal the joints. Don't forget to install a good quality weather vent with a flapper door on the outside, it will keep the cold from coming back in the pipe. Your dryer can use the same, only use 4 inch work the dryer.
in America do you not need some kinda education or license to do electrical installation ?? and arent there some kinda rules about outlets near water ??
For the pipe the is marked "For Drain Waste and Vent Only", cellular core, its not rated for pressure applications. So for example, I regularly use Schedule 40 PVC (not cellular core) for a commercial swimming pool that runs 80 GPM @ 30PSI.
Most joists for bathrooms ceilings are usually 2X6 or 2X8, so there is plenty of room. I used flexible insulated venting made for bathroom fans, that works great. Also in my area code says you need to leave a 6-8 inch loop when installing new wiring !!!⚓️
Flexible ducting has it's place, but it's a trap for dirt/moisture in the ridges. A humid/ condensation cycle is perfect for growing bacteria, and those little ridges in flexi duct are perfect for that!
My biggest regret was not installing at least 4 quad boxes in the bathroom. Add a blow dryer, curling iron, a couple of electric toothbrushes, water pick, etc, you’ll need them!!!
Been here since the beginning and I seem to remember one of the reasons y’all selected that location was because there were very few codes and restrictions. Damn, it looks like you may as well be building in downtown Boise !
Please watch some better how to rough on electric. Over 40 years of electrical work, Pull cable,strip off a foot of jacket, place in box, then staple. Spend some $$ and layout your very custom home with an Electrician. Good Luck
Leave room in the panel for a Generator Bypass input...your so reliant on electric for heat now that you will need the generator if the power goes down.
Pay an electrician, this is too important to screw up! I've worked as an electrician for years, Watching you is killing me Jesse!!!
An industrial electrician here. I always strip my wires after inserted in the box with a pocket or utility knife . I guess different ways for different folks.
When you put together hundreds of outlets you get in a groove with those strippers he is using there is no faster way but to each his own
I work a part time retirement job in electrical at Home Depot. When I see a customer with a light fixture that has been opened I offer to reopen the box for them to make sure everything is ok and all the parts are in the box so the customer will not have have to come back to the store with defective product.
There is nothing worse than having to make many trips to the store for replacement parts.
DWV is used only for that purpose (drain, waste, vent) Vent does not mean bathroom exhaust fan vent. If the pipe will be going thru an unconditioned space, it should be insulated to prevent condensation on the outside and water build up on the inside. Bathroom vent fans are exhausted either thru insulated flex pipe or insulated metal duct. This is pretty much standard in the US.
Take a hint from an old IBEW electrician. Never ever use 14 gauge wire in your house. 1. You are limited to any a #15 amp breaker on that circuit. 2. You never know what the future will bring. So a #12 gauge wire gives you 20 amps of power. The additional cost of money is negligible in the big scheme of wiring your house.
I am a retired electrician. The plugs that are accessible in the garage area should be GFCI protected, except for a permanent freezer plug, which should be unprotected. If it was GFCI protected and tripped off for some unknown reason, you would possibly lose the contents of the freezer. Glen from Texas
You went to the trouble of putting guard plates on the studs to protect your pex pipes but you didn't do the same to protect the wires you have running through studs where you could easily drive a drywall screw right into your wire or a nail driven into the wall to hang a shelf or any number of other projects.
Lets see. 40 circuits in the garage bathroom leaves no circuits for the rest of the house.
Jesse, it will really help you to get used to holding your hammer down at the end of the handle. It may feel unwieldy in the beginning but you have a lot of hammering to do and it will greatly increase your speed and effectiveness.
They may not be required in your country but here in the UK if you put a hole in a stud to run electric cable you have to put a steel plate either side to stop drywall screws / nails penetrating the cables. I noticed you have done that for the water but not for the electric.
You really only need it on the side that's close and in corners but usually you do that last
hammers have a handle for a reason, use it you will drive the nail easier and more accurately.
can't believe the amount of money that is being wasted with all of the extra wire that is being pulled into the boxes. Wow, that is a lot of money going onto the floor. Only need to pull at max a foot out of the box, not 3 to 4 feet.
Exactly....
Now I know why thousands of screws were used in construction of this house. He has no idea how to hold a hammer !!!!
I love your channel I’m a plumber in Massachusetts we have codes for everything lol. The Drain waste and vent Pipe can be used for sewer as well that’s what the waste part is. When the pipe says DWV only that means you can’t use it to vent out a gas water heater or appliance
Looking good. One recommendation on your hammering skills. Move your hand to the butt end of the handle or cut it off. You will do less hammering using the whole handle then choking-up on the handle. A lesson I learned from my father when he was building his own house. Keep up the great work and attention to detail.
The same so did my Dad
Better learn where to hold the hammer. Also where are the extra wire “loops” out of the boxes Incase more wire needs to be pulled later. Won’t pass code in many places
A little crazy...all of the wires should have been pulled up through the top plate and then dropped down from above to the boxes. You made swiss cheese out of all of your studs. Best to practice in the garage though I guess. I suppose you now know that the "V" in DWV is a plumbing vent, not a fan vent ;-).
Please PLEASE PLEASE stop stripping and then putting the wire in the box. I'm a Licensed electrician that is the son of a Master Electrician. you have to have a MINIMUM of 1/4" of sheeting on NM wire inside the box. Just push the wire into the box. take your box cutter and follow the center wire, (on 12/2 NM ((romex is a brand not a type of cable) it will be the Ground)) pull out to the end, Pull the wires up and the sheeting down. use the razor to cut the sheeting off. This leaves you more than enough wire to work within the box and allows you to have undoubtedly enough sheeting to protect the THHN conductors inside from damage. All you are doing is wasting time and risking damage by doing it the way your "electrician" told you to do. whoever you've contacted sounds like an Apprentice.
you still cant use a hammer properly! ffs grab it by its end! not by its head!!
some of the things he is doing are very very wrong and dangerous. He practiced with a professional for flying instructions instead of just "winging it". Should have done the same for electric
Jessie, will you please stop using the wire cutter on your strippers to remove the romex jacket?! You are not deft enough to prevent cutting into the insulation on the induvidual conductors and you've already caused one short (albeit in low voltage) and do not need more. Get a romex stripper already!
That tool is designed to be used exactly the way he is using it. He isn't using wire strippers as you think of it. That tool is formed to precisely fit around the wires inside the cable and score/shear the jacketed insulation so it can be pulled off.
James Fish that is a Romex / NM cable stripper on the end of that tool.
James Fish - There are romex strippers that have a "romex" notch in them, he is using them correctly!
Yes! Never cut towards to conductor especially when you can't fix a nick in the copper which happens
I keep saying it..... Jesse get yourself a tool bag that goes on your hips, on a belt, buy one for carpentry and one specifically for electrical, you will save so much time.
Why is it that every pro uses tool belts/pouches?
Level up dude!
Love the channel.
Cheers from Tokyo!
Drain, WASTE, Vent. What do you call waste, excess newpapers? Drain is from your sink, Waste if from you toilet, vent is your sewer gases through your roof. You do not need Sch 40 to vent your bathroom fan! No, the plumbers didn't fall asleep yet, they are still laughing. I have a lot of respect for your journey, but you are learning a lot of useless info but skipping all the relevant information; especially when you are doing electrical work and say "I think I can do that" about 20 times. Just keep in mind you are passing on incorrect information to a lot of beginners that think youtube has all the answers.
Why are u toggling your drill when you drilling holes in studs? don’t do that. Hold that trigger from beginning to end.
I KNOW! Its a bit of a peeve of mine. Stop tickling the drill & learn trigger control.
He's trying to slow the drill. Wood bits operate best at a lower rpm. That Milwaukee drill runs 1750+ rpm, and the 3/4 wood bit works best in spruce/pine at 500-1000 rpm.
I put my bath vent right over the shower once. It makes taking a shower kind of cold. It sucks the steamy air out for sure, but it pulls the cooler air right past you. Much better to put the vent out in the room so the shower stays nice and warm.
Hope you get it inspected before you start hanging drywall.
13:44 Those holes are very close to the inside corner, and it's difficult to put protection plates there. For future, you should keep the wire in the center, even if it means getting creative with drilling.
Also, don't run the wire straight into the box (16:40), you should put a curl in the wire that forms a drip loop so that if it ever does get wet it drips away from the box. This is code in Alberta, and they will fail an inspection if you don't have drip loops (and they are very difficult to add after the fact, LOL). I know you're working with different codes, but it's a good idea anyhow.
Best thing about standards is that everyone can have one :)
I get amazed and a bit scared when I see the electric installation. It's very different from the code in Europe.
Keep it up, take care and stay safe.
Havn't your father taught you how to hold on to a hammer properly ??
So, let me see if I got this correct, your going to use the top/ceiling of the bathroom for storage, i.e., put a load on it, and using 2" in. X 4" in. studs instead of 2" in. X 6" in. giving you much needed room for the plumbing of the fan. Just couldn't sacrifice that additional 2" in., via a 2" in. X 6" in. O.k., got it. That dog doesn't hunt.
Man, oh man. Jesse, you guys have had an amazing journey so far. You've learned a lot and made due with quite a few things. But your electrical prowess scares me. Most of the complaints regarding wasted material are dumb. Romex is only 20 cents a foot. I'm not worried about that. I'm worried about your code violations that are legitimate safety concerns. Your lack of afci and gfci's, mismatched ampacity between cable and breakers, etc. Please, get an nfpa chapter 70 and read it. Or just give me a call I'm only 4 hours away. I'll help you for nothing more than room and board.
Jesse, Please, please, please, take him up on this. It's not too late. It's not worth the risk. It's not a light subject. I am a very capable builder and I do engineering type work for a living I would not try to brute force your way through this. Electrical wiring s a very specific type of mental muscle that does not overlap other disciplines much for its rules. It's more difficult than it seems to do it to code. There are very good reasons why the code is the way it is. The more I study it the more I realize I what I thought I knew was wrong-headed.
It's been awesome watching this complete journey. I am an aspiring electrician so watching someone take their time and really want their finished project to be 100% is very respectable.
One thing I will say is get yourself a good pair of Klein (or what ever brand you prefer) cable cutters. With the amount of romex you will be cutting, you will save your strippers for their actual job.
Keep up the great work! Love seeing the progress!
I see way to many code issues please just call an electrican and save half the time and money after you have to redo half of your rough in
You could see the staple go into the wire in the last video
Leave 6" of wire loose ouside the box so if you cut the wire doing drywall or whatever you can pull another 6" out!
I really hope American wire does not have the same polymers as the ones we have in the UK ... In the UK we are to avoid all contact with anything Polystyrene at all costs, so like your ICF blocks cable should not come into contact with that under any circumstances unless it's in a metal conduit.
The problem is that the polymers that make the PVC cable flexible in UK cable react with polystyrene, this make the cable very brittle in a relatively short period of time as the polymers transmigrate. This brittleness can lead to the PVC wiring cracking and the insulation failing over time which is also a potential fire hazard.
Really thats weird so like they cant spray foam the wires? From what I know there isnt much that will eat through the plastic jacket. We usually only use the metal wire or mc/bx for commercial applications and where the wire is subject to damage
I was thinking the same. Only metal protection in contact with wood here in est Europe
It's amazing how much better a hammer works if you don't hold it right at the head... ;-)
why do you hold the hammer like that its like you have never held a hammer hold it like a man and you wouldnt have to hit the nail so much if you used the hammer properly and hold it on the end and use its leverage
The joist bay is your friend..... why drill out all those vertical studs. Drill the top plate above the electrical panel, drill the top plate above all the device boxes and drill a set a holes in the joist perpendicular to the electrical panel and pull the wire much easier .
Saw you installing #14 wire and #12 into the three gang switch box. If you have two circuits in that box you are required to connect in the panel on a two pole breaker which are hard to come by as a 15A & 20A.
A little late now, but I would of suggested installing a sheet of 5/8” plywood to the exterior wall side of your mechanical space and slap the panel there. Would of made things a lot easier for the long run. Room for future access, expansion and other electric and communications equipment.
Just buy a case of 18 Cubic Inch boxes. You'll use them all over. 20 CI are better for 20 amp circuits. 18's are 3" deep. Your ICF's are 2 1/2". Perfect depth. Just cut the foam out to the concrete and anchor it to the concrete with a TAPCON. I used a CHEAP electric chainsaw, drilled a hole at 2 1/2" from the tip of the chain to the center of the hole. By the time you put a bolt (I used 5?16') in, it stops the chain just short of the concrete.
I used a timer switch that looks like a conventional switch but has a settable delay for shut off of the fan.
I admire a lot about you and your project, however - lately, you have been developing a bad habit of giving bad information on subjects you admit you are not familiar with. ABS is still the standard pipe for sewar drains in California and most of the west - usually a bit cheaper than PVC, which I've seen on projects in the eastern part of the country ("waste" = sewer). Just because there is a glue that will stick to both, doesn't mean you'd mix them on a project, normally.
? Sounds like you might need to contact an electrician? I believe you know nothing about electrical work. You should put each branch circuit on its own breaker. Except something that runs on 240v. Then it would be a double pull breaker. Wow I usually keep my mouth shut. But this is crazy scary.
True enough, I'm a Master Electrician with 35+ years of experience, and I can barely contain myself. There's a reason why there's electricians.
All those radial wires makes the UK Ring Main type of power cabling seem so much tidier/simpler.
The plug that you're wanting to put next to the bathtub I wouldn't put it there it's too close to water. Regardless or it being on a GFI circuit and the garage plugs should be on separate 20 amp breakers not double poles.. so if one breaker trips not both of them trip
Was going to say something but it's pointless. He doesn't read these. Also, people think GFIs will prevent them from getting electrocuted. Not true. If all misdirected current flows back thru the associate neutral the GFI won't sense any difference and won't trip.
After watching this I wonder what those SIPs are going to look like when they finish wiring and plumbing upstairs. Did they even plan for any vertical chases? It supposedly is a timber frame.
Again, still no collar ties holding the roof down and no siding yet??! Seriously? They've lost sight of the proper construction sequence. That exterior OSB is taking a beating from exposure to sun and rain and temp swings. Focus shifted to moving in ASAP.
At the very least wrap the exterior before you do any more inside.
Cut last inch of outer insulation along conductor. Pull insulation from conductor up to one inch from box. Use knife or flush cutters to cut away from conductor. Magic
Generally you fur out against ICF which makes running electrical easier
yikes! 2 x 6 framing on the ceiling would have given you the necessary clearance for the fan vent conduit/fittings as well as been stronger when it comes to supporting the overhead storage load load. Probably too late now I'm guessing. Damn!
*Sewer is a DRAIN! DWV (Drainage Waste Vent) is NOT used for a Liquid under Pressure!*
*A PVC well pipe or irrigation pipe could be PVC PR200 (Check the Class CL) which appears to be wimpier that SCH40 PVC DWV but is rated to 200 PSI*
Use 3" sheet metal pipe for the venting. Cheaper, fits better, and still reasonably durable. There are exhaust hoods available for the outside as well.
Unless those strippers you are using are specially made to strip the Romex sheathing that we don’t have up here in Canada you have probably nicked every signal live and neutral cable inside. If this is the case you will have to re-wire everything. (Certified Electrician for over 30 years)
I think they're something like this: www.kleintools.com/catalog/klein-kurve/klein-kurve-dual-nm-cable-strippercutter
Klein used to make them in separate yellow and blue versions for 12 and 14 gauge which is what I have. They work well and don't nick conductors if you're reasonably careful.
They also have one specifically for Canada: www.kleintools.com/catalog/klein-kurve/klein-kurve-dual-nmd-90-cable-strippercutter
They are I use them everyday they are amazing
Your electrical inspector is going to make your life hell.
Unless things have changed, Code requires you put armor plates on all those holes for wires. (sigh)
You could use romex (cable) stackers going up the studs from the outlet boxes.
We used an electric chainsaw to cut the wire route for our romex in the ICF. It’s fast and easy. The cut is just the right size even if it is a little rough.
www this address and purchase one of these outer sheath wire strippers. Your present method is not recommended because it is too easy to nick a wire. A nicked wire reduces the actual gauge of the wire and creates a hot spot. This kind of stripper can be used inside a box to reach in and strip off the vinyl sheath as well - no pre stripping. The proper tools of residential wiring are a pair of side-cutters, an insulation stripper like you already have and one of these casing strippers. With these 3 tools you can do everything properly.
www.rona.ca/en/cable-stripper
What in te actual f**k are you doing??? This much wire is enought to pull electricity to half of your house, not a single bathroom.
Home run your garage plugs, and use EMT on the walls to run wire's in or the Gray PVC instead of trying to mess with the icf's with running wires. Easier to do. Max outlet boxes is about 10 per circuit 20 amp or 15 amo because most folks arnt going to use them all at the same time. Try to figure out what you are going to have used on those outlets and adjust accordingly.
Dryer and washer need to be at 3ft bathroom boxes need to be at 42 to bottom of box outlets 20 to top of boxes. And I see you did a 14-2 in the bathroom 3 gang you can't have a 14 on a 20 amp
i wold think it wold be a good time to install home network wire in the walls at the same time as the weir cat5e \ rj45 / cat7 weir
It just hit me that if they sell, the buyer will have a very detailed description of the electrical, plumbing, and construction of this house.
Joe Peal , it’ll be handy for when a qualified electrician has to put it all right.
And will be able to get a nice discount because of it.
To tear most out and redo...
@ 19:56 not choking the hammer as much, great progress, keep it up !
Brotha, just use a razor knife to strip the wires, just make sure you are in the middle and have just the tip going into it. then cut the sheathing right at the inside top of the box where the wire comes through
A friend used to choke his hammer handle near the eye the way you did at minute 19:21. His journeyman took the hammer and cut it off so he would hold it at the end of the handle where he should hold it. LOL
Exactly
If you used proper romex strippers, you'd be able to strip the outer insulation after you'd inserted it into the box plus there would be lest chance of cutting the inner insulation
Richard's Woodshop true but for some reason I feel like they go through the insulation a little to. Just a paranoia
Oh my... please hold the hammer properly. That hurts to watch 😂
Jesse, you need to hire a qualified electrician. If you're lucky, you might find one to help you with a layout plan then teach you how to do wiring correctly. You've wasted a lot of wire when daisy-chaining outlets would have saved wire and simplified the installation, put single duplex boxes when it's always smart to put double duplex outlets in a box - or be able to have a switch and a duplex outlet in the same box if you want to add something later. I also noticed your lack of gfi protection. I am an industrial electrician, so not very familiar with residential electrical codes, but I would have EVERY source of power for your bathrooms, laundry area, and kitchenette protected with proper ground fault outlets or breakers. I also noted others commenting about the placement of your ceiling vent fan - it makes sense to me that it should not be directly over the shower but nearer the commode. I also think you might be wise to have a complete plumbing plan as early as possible to keep venting and plumbing both code compliant and at as low cost as possible. You are a pretty handy guy and I admire your effort - but it takes years of training and experience to be a competent tradesperson. There is a reason for that. One question: why that tubing for the plumbing? You know those clamps are gonna' rust and you're going to have leaks later on. It's very expensive, but IMHO properly insulation-wrapped copper pipe is the way to go.
Why not use some half inch furring strips on top of those 2x4 joists? Then mount the plywood on top of that?
DWV drain waste vent ? Waste means sewer.
why not metal duct for your vent avoid the aggravation of the ABS/PVC fittings
Too late now but there is a special stapler for round cable like internet, cable for the temperature sensor, etc. Uses rounder head staples that leaves space without crimping the wire.
For a place with no building codes, you sure have a lot of building codes.
Don't forget Klipstein's fourth law of electrical engineering.....Any wire cut to length will be too short! LOL
I think what you are looking for is "Duct or Ducting" as in "HVAC" Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning AKA the mechanical trade. I am not saying you can not use PVC or ABS for a fart fan as long as you can terminate it with a back draft damper. In fact I think it is a much better product than spiral duct.
OK that said "DWV" Drain Waste and Vent refers to the plumbing trade. The ez way to think about it is using a "San-Tee" Up is the Vent, Down is the Waste and the side let out with the curve pointing down is the drain. 1)"D" Drain is from the branch arm to the fixture, it is the pipes coming out the wall with the trap in a sink but also concealed like in a tub or shower but it's the branch arm out. 2) The "W" waste starts at the branch arm and carries water and waste down to the sewer, The sewer begins just outside of the building and continues to you sewer system or holding tank etc. 3) "V" Vent again starts at the branch arm but goes up through the roof. it does not carry water or waste it balances the system atmospheric air and keep the nasty sewer gases out of the building.
Sadly, our comments here are usually a month or so too late and have no value to them as a result. A lot of mistakes are made way before we comment here, "IF" they even read them, I have yet to see a response to any of them!
Electrician didn’t tell you about leaving the 6” loop in the wire where it goes in the box?
You can't use solid metal and adjustable elbows for bath vent? Much easier.
yes u can and hat what is supposed to be used
Waste = Sewer. It's just a more polite and PC word. ABS used to be cool but usually began to fail after some time underground. But guess what? It was wwaayy better than clay or cast iron. Well done once again. Let's get some drone in garage video. I think you can program it.
I think you once said, that you DON'T read the comments. You SHOULD READ THE ADVISE FROM EXPERIENCED ELECTRICIANS below. I've admired your tenacity to "get 'er done", but you research always seems a little short.
You talk about researching things before you start, but you obviously haven't read a decent "How To Wire" book, judging from numerous rookie mistakes. A few tips from your electrician is NOT sufficient knowledge to do your own wiring. (1) NO ELECTRICAL PLAN (?) Required almost everywhere. That sub-panel should have been on an outside wall. (2) That garage outlet run should be a 3-wire circuit using 12/3+G, which will allow you to have two 20 amp circuits and also a 220 plug wherever needed needed for any shop tools that run on it (220 uses both legs) - but READ how to wire a 3-wire circuit. (3) It looks like those two little rooms are OVERwired. 14 wire will limit you to 15 amp breakers. Number 12 gives you 20 amps. So 14 is OK for lighting circuits, but I haven't wired with less than 12 in 50 years.
Other amateurs - should NOT use this as a reference.
Because you are using Romex instead of flex-conduit, any mistakes will be buried in the wall and require opening the wall again to fix it. That's why I've used flex ever since the first house I wired. Romex is only cheaper until you need to make changes after drywall. That is a big negative of SIPS.
And I would check ur plug hight for dryer I've never seen one so high off the ground
hey Jesse, do yourself a favor and buy one more of the exact same bathroom exhaust fan for every 5 years that you plan on living in the house. that way when the fan fails and it will, all you have to do is swap out the guts to the fan and leave the housing in place. that way you don't have to tear out the ceiling to replace the housing. and we all know that fixture housings will change design in the next year or two. might save you time and heartache. lovin' the journey thanks for the ride along. jim in florida
How to make a simple bathroom install into the most technically complicated project - building code says you are limited to 3 cables per 1" hole. o.k. so make it larger. I am starting to get bored with the OCD aspect. This is their first 'room' with more timber than a Swedish Sauna for the walls for what should a simple downstairs bathroom.. The convoluted plastic-weld plumbing will be the downfall along with the plastic crimp clipped hot/cold hoses for the supplies - all hidden behind the dry-wall plasterboard when it eventually gets installed. A word to the wise - stick with proven accepted standards - either solder or use compression copper pipes and fittings
Boy, there are a lot of comments. I scanned them and saw none about potential problems running 14/3 wire and AFCI circuits breakers. Shared neutral wire in the 14/3 will not work with normal AFCI breakers.
I think you said you have a Siemens breaker box. Maybe a Siemens breaker Q215AF will work... or use 14/2/2 wire.
About using one GFI outlet and feeding all the down stream outlets from it, I suggest that you do not do it spend the money and put a GFI outlet at each location. Yes, it works and is code but I cannot tell you how many times I have been called out for outlet not working only to figure out that there is a GFI out up stream causing the problem
Leave an extra few inches of wire out of the boxes, after the staple. You can cut the outer sheathing for the 6 inches you need and push the extra back out of the box. I prefer the metal boxes with the integrated screw type strain relief, you can loosen the screw to pull in more wire if you ever need it. Stripping the wire is easy with an Olfa knife, using the bare center ground wire as a guide, so you don't knick the insulation on the conductors. I also like to run all my power feed wires from the bottom of the box, so you know which are the hot or feed wires after the drywall is on.
Also, hope you insulate the bathroom and mechanical room before you close in all the drywall. The insulation will help keep the heat if the power goes out, keep your hot water hotter, longer, as it moves to the faucet, and act as a sound barrier.
For your fan, use aluminum or galvanized snap pipe and flex elbows. That is what should be used along with aluminum tape (not gray duct tape), to seal the joints. Don't forget to install a good quality weather vent with a flapper door on the outside, it will keep the cold from coming back in the pipe. Your dryer can use the same, only use 4 inch work the dryer.
in America do you not need some kinda education or license to do electrical installation ?? and arent there some kinda rules about outlets near water ??
Not if it's your house and yes.
For the pipe the is marked "For Drain Waste and Vent Only", cellular core, its not rated for pressure applications. So for example, I regularly use Schedule 40 PVC (not cellular core) for a commercial swimming pool that runs 80 GPM @ 30PSI.
FYI, It would be easier on your rest when using your hammer if you would not chock it so much.
Most joists for bathrooms ceilings are usually 2X6 or 2X8, so there is plenty of room. I used flexible insulated venting made for bathroom fans, that works great. Also in my area code says you need to leave a 6-8 inch loop when installing new wiring !!!⚓️
need to make sure you balance your panel..
Simple way to set outlet boxes without measuring from the floor is to make them all the length of your hammer handle.
When you put a staple on that white wire don't staple it all the way down to staple it enough to hold the wire in place
For the fan, use metal snap pipe. The fittings are the same diameter as the pipe.
Wrong. If you face time me ill show u how to strip wires in the box and show it on your channel. Its very very cool
Flexible ducting has it's place, but it's a trap for dirt/moisture in the ridges. A humid/ condensation cycle is perfect for growing bacteria, and those little ridges in flexi duct are perfect for that!
Codes are the lowest standard, for construction
Bare minimum
If you’ll cut off the end six inches of that hammer handle it wouldn’t keep hitting your arm!😅🤣😂🇺🇸
You clearly have too many wires.
To strip romex by taking a utility knife and poke it through the center of the wire them pull toward you to strip the wire
My biggest regret was not installing at least 4 quad boxes in the bathroom. Add a blow dryer, curling iron, a couple of electric toothbrushes, water pick, etc, you’ll need them!!!
4 fucking quad boxes jesus christ what they hell bro
Been here since the beginning and I seem to remember one of the reasons y’all selected that location was because there were very few codes and restrictions. Damn, it looks like you may as well be building in downtown Boise !
plzz dont use a hammer like that it is big boy time
Please watch some better how to rough on electric. Over 40 years of electrical work, Pull cable,strip off a foot of jacket, place in box, then staple. Spend some $$ and layout your very custom home with an Electrician. Good Luck
Leave room in the panel for a Generator Bypass input...your so reliant on electric for heat now that you will need the generator if the power goes down.