Nice job. Great presentation. I was fortunate enough to have a local shop available which specialized in rebuilding clutch disks and brakes. They took my shoe and pad cores and mated new pads, and bonded new linings for my brake assemblies at 1/2 the price from an antique parts store. Across the pond, Narragansett Bay, Portsmouth
I've not seen pritt stick-style copper ease and thread locker before, it looks a lot more convenient than the usual stuff in a tin or superglue style bottle.
looks like you painted the knuckle of the control arm. good on you. did the whole control arm get the brush treatment or just that part that went into the strut?
Glad I found this. I have a 1986 Daihatsu Skywing in Taiwan which I THINK has a bad front bearing. This model is, AFAIK, undocumented and without spares, but has very similar brakes to the ones shown here (Small differences noted include front hub nut has a split pin, rear has a crowsfoot clip, and the rear shaft is smooth rather than splined.) Based on horror stories about other cars with "captive rotors" (e.g. Honda Accord) I was rather dreading getting into it, but that didn't look too bad, though maybe you got a bit lucky. Assuming the hub and disk separate OK, how difficult do you thnk it would be to replace the bearings?
It can sometimes be fun getting bearings out, especially when it's a blind hole so you can't tap it oyt from the other side and it's been in there for decades! However, if you're replacing the bearing, the advantage is you don't have to worry about destroying the old one, so if one of the races isn't budging, you can carefully cut or grind a slit in it (e.g. with a Dremel) to give it some flex and get it loose. Just have to be careful not to be too aggressive and damage the casting or shaft the bearing is fitted to.
@@InitialDave Thanks. Do you think its possible to read the bearing codes (often stamped on the shell) with it taken apart to the extent you show? Its now difficult to get parts for this car, but if I had the bearing code I might be able to source them from a bearing supplier, if they are standard ones used in other things,
@@edlithgow4360 I'd expect so, yes, and assuming they're something "normal" like a taper roller, I'd expect them to be available from a bearing specialist.
@@InitialDave Thanks I downloaded a Mira workshop manual which seems very similar, and they suggest using a puller on the hub, as you did for one of them. That's encouraging, but there seems to be general concern about wrecking bearings doing this on "captive rotor "'designs. Here''s Eric the Car Guy on this, at about 1 min 40 secs in. ruclips.net/video/UirzXEmnxVc/видео.html He's talking about the Honda Accord. I dunno if this is less of a risk with the Daihatsu design, or you just got lucky. Oddly, no bearing replacement procedure seems to be specified in the Mira manual, though checking for excess free play is mentioned. I suppose you either press out the bearing from the hub (I'd probably have to outsource that) or replace the whole hub, which in my case might not be available.
that was some good work, you should have replaced the seals on and in the brake caliper while you had it all apart though, it's not that big of a job. understand it could be hard finding the exact seal kit for this model but t would have been worth while to explain to people how the caliper works and what to expect when dealing with rusted components. i have seen pitted brake pistons in my time which don't allow the inner seal retract the piston when it has been compressed, this can and does cause a dangerous situation where the pads are in constant contact with the Rim, this can and does cause the rim to super heat and pop the wheel leaving the owner/operator very confused and stranded potentially.
I think the seal kit probably is available, but the piston was in decent nick and everything seemed fairly happy, so I'm not that concerned - I can get it apart easily enough if I need to in the future.
I had the next gen 1.0 3 cylinder good car but rusted under by the exhaust where the spring is located is it also rustig there? And with the next gen 1.0 12v 1999 models the brake system is even worse to replace... You must remove the brake bits by a stupid clips that wil not go that good back.... i replaced mine and put the clips back in but the brakes where never the same even worse, i bleeded 3 times and toped up but no succes... sold the car and im lokking for a cuore like yours but 3 cylinder...
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Really professional work. It’s like Wheeler Dealers before they went Hollywood!
Hah! I don't quite have their budget either way!
Dihatshu course replace brake drums to discweel
was gonna say the same, i always fast forwarded through some of the parts on WD to get to Edd, love this channel
Wow that last before/after photo was amazing!!
Nice job. Great presentation. I was fortunate enough to have a local shop available which specialized in rebuilding clutch disks and brakes. They took my shoe and pad cores and mated new pads, and bonded new linings for my brake assemblies at 1/2 the price from an antique parts store. Across the pond, Narragansett Bay, Portsmouth
Currently binge watching your series. Great job.
Thanks!
Such a great channel. Your vids are perfect! Pacing, filming and great subject. Keep it up and cheers from North Carolina!
Thanks!
Legend says that earwig is still running for his life.
you messed up, in the US, if you paint them red, you get like an extra 15 hp
i have no idea why i'm binge watching this , i own a mercedes 550
LOL
I've not seen pritt stick-style copper ease and thread locker before, it looks a lot more convenient than the usual stuff in a tin or superglue style bottle.
Yes, it can be easier to handle, they're from Loctite.
na.henkel-adhesives.com/loctite-sticks-6180.htm
Go earwig go!! Great info thanks for all your content!
You need an impact gun makes jobs like this so much easier. Love the work!
Thanks! I do have an impact gun, but tend not to bother using it all that much.
6:53 polish spray. regards from Poland ;)
Great job, enjoyed very much, but tightening brake bolts no need for exact torque?? Eric
Good job mate.
Now that is so satisfying
looks like you painted the knuckle of the control arm. good on you. did the whole control arm get the brush treatment or just that part that went into the strut?
I painted the whole knuckle/carrier, yeah.
Well done, very inspiring.
thanks so much
awesome work! Well done.
vkmicro Thanks!
Glad I found this. I have a 1986 Daihatsu Skywing in Taiwan which I THINK has a bad front bearing. This model is, AFAIK, undocumented and without spares, but has very similar brakes to the ones shown here (Small differences noted include front hub nut has a split pin, rear has a crowsfoot clip, and the rear shaft is smooth rather than splined.)
Based on horror stories about other cars with "captive rotors" (e.g. Honda Accord) I was rather dreading getting into it, but that didn't look too bad, though maybe you got a bit lucky.
Assuming the hub and disk separate OK, how difficult do you thnk it would be to replace the bearings?
It can sometimes be fun getting bearings out, especially when it's a blind hole so you can't tap it oyt from the other side and it's been in there for decades!
However, if you're replacing the bearing, the advantage is you don't have to worry about destroying the old one, so if one of the races isn't budging, you can carefully cut or grind a slit in it (e.g. with a Dremel) to give it some flex and get it loose. Just have to be careful not to be too aggressive and damage the casting or shaft the bearing is fitted to.
@@InitialDave Thanks.
Do you think its possible to read the bearing codes (often stamped on the shell) with it taken apart to the extent you show?
Its now difficult to get parts for this car, but if I had the bearing code I might be able to source them from a bearing supplier, if they are standard ones used in other things,
@@edlithgow4360 I'd expect so, yes, and assuming they're something "normal" like a taper roller, I'd expect them to be available from a bearing specialist.
@@InitialDave Thanks
I downloaded a Mira workshop manual which seems very similar, and they suggest using a puller on the hub, as you did for one of them.
That's encouraging, but there seems to be general concern about wrecking bearings doing this on "captive rotor "'designs.
Here''s Eric the Car Guy on this, at about 1 min 40 secs in.
ruclips.net/video/UirzXEmnxVc/видео.html
He's talking about the Honda Accord. I dunno if this is less of a risk with the Daihatsu design, or you just got lucky.
Oddly, no bearing replacement procedure seems to be specified in the Mira manual, though checking for excess free play is mentioned.
I suppose you either press out the bearing from the hub (I'd probably have to outsource that) or replace the whole hub, which in my case might not be available.
that was some good work, you should have replaced the seals on and in the brake caliper while you had it all apart though, it's not that big of a job. understand it could be hard finding the exact seal kit for this model but t would have been worth while to explain to people how the caliper works and what to expect when dealing with rusted components.
i have seen pitted brake pistons in my time which don't allow the inner seal retract the piston when it has been compressed, this can and does cause a dangerous situation where the pads are in constant contact with the Rim, this can and does cause the rim to super heat and pop the wheel leaving the owner/operator very confused and stranded potentially.
I think the seal kit probably is available, but the piston was in decent nick and everything seemed fairly happy, so I'm not that concerned - I can get it apart easily enough if I need to in the future.
Run earwig, run!
Very nice channel
Never crimp breaking lines! Just hit the brakeing pedal down to floor and use some brick to hold it there - zero fluid will leak
Hai. Do u know the parts number for the pads clip? I am restoring my daihatsu.. but my clips are all rusted out
Really sorry, but I'm afraid I don't, no.
Love tou youve got a subscriber i have acoure too
I had the next gen 1.0 3 cylinder good car but rusted under by the exhaust where the spring is located is it also rustig there?
And with the next gen 1.0 12v 1999 models the brake system is even worse to replace... You must remove the brake bits by a stupid clips that wil not go that good back.... i replaced mine and put the clips back in but the brakes where never the same even worse, i bleeded 3 times and toped up but no succes... sold the car and im lokking for a cuore like yours but 3 cylinder...
Gd work
A very remote area
Only one car of coure exist and that is my one
Another thing is in my area nothing is available
Where can i get glue stick type thread lock and anti seize stuff?
Ryan Steinbach They're made by Loctite - I got mine from Cromwell, who are an industrial supply company.
Where can buy the brake disc?
If you search for the Mintex part number in the description, you should be able to find it
@@InitialDave thank you 🙏🏻
I hope you changed them brake lines later
To be honest, they're actually in good condition, so I left them alone. Would've swapped them if they'd seemed an issue though.
I heard that if you block old brake lines like you did in the video they can later crack in that spot
The line clamps have rounded jaws to stop them damaging the hoses in that way. They're specifically designed for the job.
Yes, but these lines are 20 years old. Just remember about them and maybe replace them later.
Like I said, would swap them if there appeared to be an issue.
7:42 anyone notice the bug that got knocked out when he hammered the rotor off? lol
8:50 Deez nuts! hah!
Omg that all looks like should be immedietly replaced. Rubber brake hoses. Brake caliper piston sealings.
Get new calipers.