Thanks Brent. I generally use stripper purchased from bunnings. Polystrippa I think it is. CRC gasket stripper also works a treat but it’s fairly pricey to buy in a pressure pack. Cheers Craig
Another great video Craig, I love your one liners makes me laugh out loud 😁 Question for ya, is that a 3/4" slurry line on your gun. Think I heard it said it's the volume of media that's important not the pressure
Hi Gary, thanks, I'm glad someone else appreciates my humor :-D The slurry feed line to my handpiece appears to be 1" ID. Measures 1 1/2" OD. Air supply is 1/2" ID. Nozzle Diameter is 1/2". My air supply is regulated to 80 PSI. Yes volume of slurry is a very important factor in achieving the desired result. The pump on my machine is a purpose built kick ass 3 phase unit, 4 kw from memory (I think I have shown it on a previous video). People have sometimes criticized me for running a high air pressure but it is all relative to slurry volume and nozzle diameter. I'd run it at 100psi constantly if I could supply it with sufficient volumes of air. And I'm guessing this nozzle size and slurry volume is why I get very minimal glass breakdown and waste. Sorry for the long winded response but that's just the way I roll :)
Hey Craig, fantastic video! as always great humor, how do you care to avoid media remaining on oil passages, that"s my biggest concern and flash rust on the surface?, your finish is just awsome
Hey Edison thanks for tuning in. Whenever I finish blasting a part I blow it out thoroughly with compressed air. This gets rid of the majority of water and glass. However being damp always gives you a risk of glass particles hanging up where you don’t want it. I stress to the customer the importance of blowing out oil galleries and thread cavities when the parts are completely dry and before reassembly. The glass tends not to cling when its dry. Generally the only things that flash rust are cast steel things such as old air cooled cylinders and I never leave anything inside the cabinet longer than it needs to be. I also wipe everthing down with paper towell. Recently blasted a steel expansion chamber and will probably put up a quick vid on that. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting Thank you for your kind reply Craig, this subject has always been my concern of being blamed for messing up an engine, thinking about trying baking soda to see if it works, keep up those great videos!! cheers
Great vid Craigyboy!!! loved it mate..again!!!
NIce work Craig.
Artisans such as you keep beautiful machines like Guzzis on the road.
Your work is a credit to you.
Thankyou for your kind words I think 😊. I did have to look twice at the word Artisans 😂
Nice work mate! The white paint was the factory finish...
Thanks mate. I’ll remember that if another one comes my way.
Nice work Craig, parts look awesome. What Brand paint stripper did you use to strip the paint before blasting?
Thanks Brent. I generally use stripper purchased from bunnings. Polystrippa I think it is. CRC gasket stripper also works a treat but it’s fairly pricey to buy in a pressure pack. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting Thanks Craig. Really enjoying your channel.
Another great video Craig, I love your one liners makes me laugh out loud 😁
Question for ya, is that a 3/4" slurry line on your gun.
Think I heard it said it's the volume of media that's important not the pressure
Hi Gary, thanks, I'm glad someone else appreciates my humor :-D
The slurry feed line to my handpiece appears to be 1" ID. Measures 1 1/2" OD. Air supply is 1/2" ID. Nozzle Diameter is 1/2". My air supply is regulated to 80 PSI. Yes volume of slurry is a very important factor in achieving the desired result. The pump on my machine is a purpose built kick ass 3 phase unit, 4 kw from memory (I think I have shown it on a previous video). People have sometimes criticized me for running a high air pressure but it is all relative to slurry volume and nozzle diameter. I'd run it at 100psi constantly if I could supply it with sufficient volumes of air. And I'm guessing this nozzle size and slurry volume is why I get very minimal glass breakdown and waste. Sorry for the long winded response but that's just the way I roll :)
Love your work. What type of machine do you have??
Thanks Adrian. I use a Dana Ridge machine. They are a Queensland company.
Hey Craig, fantastic video! as always great humor, how do you care to avoid media remaining on oil passages, that"s my biggest concern and flash rust on the surface?, your finish is just awsome
Hey Edison thanks for tuning in. Whenever I finish blasting a part I blow it out thoroughly with compressed air. This gets rid of the majority of water and glass. However being damp always gives you a risk of glass particles hanging up where you don’t want it. I stress to the customer the importance of blowing out oil galleries and thread cavities when the parts are completely dry and before reassembly. The glass tends not to cling when its dry. Generally the only things that flash rust are cast steel things such as old air cooled cylinders and I never leave anything inside the cabinet longer than it needs to be. I also wipe everthing down with paper towell. Recently blasted a steel expansion chamber and will probably put up a quick vid on that. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting Thank you for your kind reply Craig, this subject has always been my concern of being blamed for messing up an engine, thinking about trying baking soda to see if it works, keep up those great videos!! cheers
Moto Guzzi... the poor man's Honda CX500. That's a very outstanding result again, Craig .
You will have very happy customer there.
Yes, I think the Italians stole Honda’s blueprints 15 years before they launched the CX 😂