Good tip about keeping the hours down on machinery by turning it off instead of idling. It also helps prevent engine emissions problems caused by idling.
On all equipment that has a diesel engine and all heavy equipment does have diesel engines , must idle when first started to warm up the diesel engine And when you finish your work again you let it idle to cool down or you will mess up the diesel engine !!! Talk to any semi truck owner and heavy equipment owner that has paid for the equipment and any real diesel mechanic !!! They will all tell you unless you want to blow your diesel engine , you must let it idle up and when done again it must idle down !!! Or be ready to pay for it !!! CHECK WITH A REAL DIESEL MECHANIC FIRST !!! Don't be penny wise and dollar stupid !!
That is a bunch of crap. Get in start it up and run it. Waiting to warm it up is only to warm the hydraulic fluid so that the machine works faster when they get in. I use skid steers in super cold weather and have tested this theory. Letting it warm up vs getting in and start work. I found starting work warms the engine much faster and everything gets to operation tempature at a faster rate than just letting it sit there for 20 mins. The same thing with a car get in and drive will have the heater blowing hot air much faster. Most of this stuff you learned is from the old days when they needed time to let air pressure build up in big trucks which then translates down to the stuff you keep spouting. Also it is a known fact that keeping your engine cooler will lead to longer oil life and longer engine life. Also oil today is far better than oil from 50 years ago or even better than 25 years ago. Better oil is key to better engine life.
@@kameljoe21 The diesel engine is still a cast block and head . Only in really cold or below freezing weather do they need to be warmed up that long , in regular temperature only 10 minutes or in a hot temperature 5 minutes . Have you ever heard of a blown head gasket , stretched head bolts , a cracked head , a cracked block , blown turbo or other internal parts ? When you've been a diesel mechanic which includes hydraulic's for several decades and been a heavy equipment operator for several decades , you might wake up ! Go talk to a certified diesel mechanic and heavy equipment mechanic ! Hop in a big rig or a 3/4 ton pick up truck , toy skid steer or big heavy equipment and look at the instrument cluster . A light will show when you turn the key before you crank the engine and you will see the indicator light for your glow plugs . Glow plugs warm up the cylinders by electricity from the battery before starting the engine and allows the diesel engine to start much better with less cranking . Maybe best to go to the dealership or certified diesel mechanic to talk and read about diesel engine's !! Even to these days you need to allow a diesel engine to warm up a bit before you haul ass with any diesel engine . It's quite obvious that you do not have a long education in diesel engines . You sound like a relatively new operator and not anyone who's ever had to fix the dang stuff !! Too many younger or uneducated operators will hop in some type of equipment , crank it right up and throw it into full throttle and just go , which is just pure stupidity !!! Once you yourself has to pay for repairs or rebuild's out of your own pocket , then you'll wake up !!! Best you go learn from a certified diesel mechanic !!!
@@zakman9244 You do understand that glow plugs are just for faster starting. I know how a diesel engine works. Long before glowplugs existed you either hand to crank and crank to build enough heat in the cylinders for the diesel to ignite. Once they ignite you could get to work. The cause of cracked blocks, cracked head and all of those other problems are due to one thing and that is temperature and pressure and flawed parts. Most older stuff that was casted were not xrayed and or quaility check like they do today. They have a tendency to miss major things that we have solved today. Metallurgy has advanced by massive amounts in the last 50 years. Cooling systems have also improved which provide better cooling not only for coolant, oil and transmission fluids as well. Most of the problems you find in your jobs are because that is your job. You job is to fix things and you will see more broken things rather than good running equiment. So your theory is flawed. There are 100s of thousands of equiments that have gone their entire life with out ever seeing one of your problems. Many of these are ran hard. Most of these problems you have are flaws in the casting which overtime have weakened the casting and at some point causes failure. Other times its because a machine was ran hot either because improper maintenance was done or they jerry rigged something to keep it running. The last thing I am going to tell you is that warming up an engine is bad for it because you put more wear and tear on parts of an engine because they are cold. Cold metal parts are smaller and the engines are desgined to be hot. I can not stress this enough that you need to start your engine and once its running you can proceed with your drive/work or whatever. Doing this will warm your temperature up to working temp right away rather than putting stress on everything over a 10 to 30 mins cycle. If you make some claim that you need to warm it up because the oil is cold, then I will know you have zero clue about viscosity and you should investigate which oil and type of oil you should be using in your diesel in the winter. The same goes with hydraulic oil. Hydraulic oil only takes a min or 2 of cycles time to get warm. If yours takes a really long time then its likely time to test your fluids and replace them.
@@kameljoe21 It's obvious that you are not a certified mechanic. You're simply an operator and Not a certified heavy equipment operator or certified equipment operator ! So no sense trying to explain things to you as you have it stuck in your head that you are perfectly right but little do you know how wrong you can be . You did mention one very important thing about a diesel engine which is the temperature of the diesel engine ! But after you have a problem with your diesel then you will see but until then you can stay on your high horse and beat the daylights out of your equipment or whoever's equipment you're operating which may cost you your job .
@@zakman9244 FFS. You do not get it do you. You are a certifed mechanic who fixes things. I am have owned my own equiment and operate it. I have put thousands and thousands of hours on machines with zero problems and no warm up times. I have done my research and investigated these things. You clearly do not understand how wear is caused. Idling your diesel causes more wear than using it. You might be a mechanic yet you have no clue about metallurgy, clearances or tolerances of diesel engines. You also have zero understanding how combustion works in diesel engines nor do you understand emissions and their associated problems with idling. Everything I have told you can be back up my many sources. You need to take some time and do your own research instead of taking the words of old wives tales. Most engine manufacturers recommend that newer diesel engines idle for no more than 3 minutes before driving. So why not do your own research or even call manufactures of the diesels that you work on and find out more directly from the people who make them and they will tell you not to idle for long periods of time.
I’m assuming you have the utilities located first before you move one ounce of dirt? Here in Indiana we call 8-1-1 and they come out in a day or so and locate any and everything. I had considered renting large equipment, but buying seems to be a smarter way to go. Thanks for the video.
Yeah you always call before you dig. The water line should have been listed. I am sure the people there were pissed about their water being off for several hours. This just seems like someone who is new at digging holes. Buying really depends on how much you intend to use your machine. Factor in hour cost and your investment. If you are going to put a few hours on a machine a month then it might be ideal to rent. This is because you can pick the right size machine for the job rather than owing a machine that is too small or too big.
We did call 811, everything was located, but this water line was not marked as it was connect to a meter with multiple homes connected. The developer of this subdivision did not make it easy.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome In that case the HOA would be the ones liable for damage. In a legal stance you could blame the HOA. I hate HOA and would never build or buy a house at one.
Any tips for sourcing excavation equipment? I've heard that it's best to avoid purchasing from equipment rental companies, but otherwise I'm at a loss for how to find a good deal. Thanks in advance, & thank you for all the info you share!
I designed a house for a Parade of Homes. The excavators ran into an underground spring. I ended up modifying the plan to have a daylight basement...
Good tip about keeping the hours down on machinery by turning it off instead of idling. It also helps prevent engine emissions problems caused by idling.
I’m jealous!
Good tips but if the equipment has a turbo, make sure you let it idle and cool down before shutting it off.
That is true
On all equipment that has a diesel engine and all heavy equipment does have diesel engines , must idle when first started to warm up the diesel engine And when you finish your work again you let it idle to cool down or you will mess up the diesel engine !!! Talk to any semi truck owner and heavy equipment owner that has paid for the equipment and any real diesel mechanic !!! They will all tell you unless you want to blow your diesel engine , you must let it idle up and when done again it must idle down !!! Or be ready to pay for it !!! CHECK WITH A REAL DIESEL MECHANIC FIRST !!! Don't be penny wise and dollar stupid !!
That is a bunch of crap. Get in start it up and run it. Waiting to warm it up is only to warm the hydraulic fluid so that the machine works faster when they get in. I use skid steers in super cold weather and have tested this theory. Letting it warm up vs getting in and start work. I found starting work warms the engine much faster and everything gets to operation tempature at a faster rate than just letting it sit there for 20 mins. The same thing with a car get in and drive will have the heater blowing hot air much faster.
Most of this stuff you learned is from the old days when they needed time to let air pressure build up in big trucks which then translates down to the stuff you keep spouting. Also it is a known fact that keeping your engine cooler will lead to longer oil life and longer engine life. Also oil today is far better than oil from 50 years ago or even better than 25 years ago. Better oil is key to better engine life.
@@kameljoe21 The diesel engine is still a cast block and head . Only in really cold or below freezing weather do they need to be warmed up that long , in regular temperature only 10 minutes or in a hot temperature 5 minutes . Have you ever heard of a blown head gasket , stretched head bolts , a cracked head , a cracked block , blown turbo or other internal parts ? When you've been a diesel mechanic which includes hydraulic's for several decades and been a heavy equipment operator for several decades , you might wake up ! Go talk to a certified diesel mechanic and heavy equipment mechanic ! Hop in a big rig or a 3/4 ton pick up truck , toy skid steer or big heavy equipment and look at the instrument cluster . A light will show when you turn the key before you crank the engine and you will see the indicator light for your glow plugs . Glow plugs warm up the cylinders by electricity from the battery before starting the engine and allows the diesel engine to start much better with less cranking . Maybe best to go to the dealership or certified diesel mechanic to talk and read about diesel engine's !! Even to these days you need to allow a diesel engine to warm up a bit before you haul ass with any diesel engine . It's quite obvious that you do not have a long education in diesel engines . You sound like a relatively new operator and not anyone who's ever had to fix the dang stuff !! Too many younger or uneducated operators will hop in some type of equipment , crank it right up and throw it into full throttle and just go , which is just pure stupidity !!! Once you yourself has to pay for repairs or rebuild's out of your own pocket , then you'll wake up !!! Best you go learn from a certified diesel mechanic !!!
@@zakman9244 You do understand that glow plugs are just for faster starting. I know how a diesel engine works. Long before glowplugs existed you either hand to crank and crank to build enough heat in the cylinders for the diesel to ignite. Once they ignite you could get to work.
The cause of cracked blocks, cracked head and all of those other problems are due to one thing and that is temperature and pressure and flawed parts. Most older stuff that was casted were not xrayed and or quaility check like they do today. They have a tendency to miss major things that we have solved today. Metallurgy has advanced by massive amounts in the last 50 years. Cooling systems have also improved which provide better cooling not only for coolant, oil and transmission fluids as well.
Most of the problems you find in your jobs are because that is your job. You job is to fix things and you will see more broken things rather than good running equiment. So your theory is flawed. There are 100s of thousands of equiments that have gone their entire life with out ever seeing one of your problems. Many of these are ran hard.
Most of these problems you have are flaws in the casting which overtime have weakened the casting and at some point causes failure. Other times its because a machine was ran hot either because improper maintenance was done or they jerry rigged something to keep it running.
The last thing I am going to tell you is that warming up an engine is bad for it because you put more wear and tear on parts of an engine because they are cold. Cold metal parts are smaller and the engines are desgined to be hot. I can not stress this enough that you need to start your engine and once its running you can proceed with your drive/work or whatever. Doing this will warm your temperature up to working temp right away rather than putting stress on everything over a 10 to 30 mins cycle.
If you make some claim that you need to warm it up because the oil is cold, then I will know you have zero clue about viscosity and you should investigate which oil and type of oil you should be using in your diesel in the winter. The same goes with hydraulic oil. Hydraulic oil only takes a min or 2 of cycles time to get warm. If yours takes a really long time then its likely time to test your fluids and replace them.
@@kameljoe21 It's obvious that you are not a certified mechanic. You're simply an operator and Not a certified heavy equipment operator or certified equipment operator ! So no sense trying to explain things to you as you have it stuck in your head that you are perfectly right but little do you know how wrong you can be . You did mention one very important thing about a diesel engine which is the temperature of the diesel engine ! But after you have a problem with your diesel then you will see but until then you can stay on your high horse and beat the daylights out of your equipment or whoever's equipment you're operating which may cost you your job .
@@zakman9244 FFS. You do not get it do you. You are a certifed mechanic who fixes things. I am have owned my own equiment and operate it. I have put thousands and thousands of hours on machines with zero problems and no warm up times. I have done my research and investigated these things. You clearly do not understand how wear is caused. Idling your diesel causes more wear than using it. You might be a mechanic yet you have no clue about metallurgy, clearances or tolerances of diesel engines. You also have zero understanding how combustion works in diesel engines nor do you understand emissions and their associated problems with idling. Everything I have told you can be back up my many sources. You need to take some time and do your own research instead of taking the words of old wives tales. Most engine manufacturers recommend that newer diesel engines idle for no more than 3 minutes before driving. So why not do your own research or even call manufactures of the diesels that you work on and find out more directly from the people who make them and they will tell you not to idle for long periods of time.
Thank you, keep posting 🙏
Will do
I love the excuse to buy some cool toys.
Me too
I've heard an excavator is more useful then a backhoe but damn, even a used one is expensive as hell!
Yes, this is true. It all depends on the cost each build is faced with when it comes to dirt work.
I am paying 162 CDN per hour for a 160 and an operator..I don’t think that’s too bad.
Good stuff!
Thanks!
I’m assuming you have the utilities located first before you move one ounce of dirt? Here in Indiana we call 8-1-1 and they come out in a day or so and locate any and everything. I had considered renting large equipment, but buying seems to be a smarter way to go. Thanks for the video.
Yeah you always call before you dig. The water line should have been listed. I am sure the people there were pissed about their water being off for several hours. This just seems like someone who is new at digging holes.
Buying really depends on how much you intend to use your machine. Factor in hour cost and your investment. If you are going to put a few hours on a machine a month then it might be ideal to rent. This is because you can pick the right size machine for the job rather than owing a machine that is too small or too big.
We did call 811, everything was located, but this water line was not marked as it was connect to a meter with multiple homes connected. The developer of this subdivision did not make it easy.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome In that case the HOA would be the ones liable for damage. In a legal stance you could blame the HOA. I hate HOA and would never build or buy a house at one.
Any tips for sourcing excavation equipment? I've heard that it's best to avoid purchasing from equipment rental companies, but otherwise I'm at a loss for how to find a good deal.
Thanks in advance, & thank you for all the info you share!
I am a bit biased toward John Deer only because the service support is everywhere in the country. Contact a local dealer. They do in-house financing.
how much was that little excavator ?
About 65K
How can I contact you?
See me at howtobuildyourownhome.com