Hey! I'm glad I could help! Thanks a lot for letting me know if this video was helpful to you. Subscribe if you haven't already. My channel is all about getting people to save money by keeping their bikes away from the "stealership" as much as possible. I hope to hear from you in my other videos. Ride safe! Cheers!
Thanks! If you would actually like to buy me a beer, you can click the link at the top of my description if you'd like to toss any donation my way. It would be greatly appreciated. Glad I could help you out and I hope your project goes as planned. If you ever get stuck, I usually reply to comments regarding questions during projects so don't hesitate to ask. Good luck and ride safe! Cheers!
dt_ thanks. Yea it is a very easy job. What messes people up sometimes is bleeding the brakes but as long as you know what you are doing there, the rebuild is the easy part. I hope this helps your rebuild if you do one soon. Thanks for your comment. It is greatly appreciated.
You too huh? Did your front brake feel like if should after the rebuild? Read in the forums that some people have reoccurring problems with the 05 06 636 MC. Was considering upgrading to a newer models MC but figured if try to rebuild if first and sore how that went.
Thanks! I'm glad it worked out for you. I've had a few people tell me it is their go-to video for whenever a rebuild is needed. Glad to be so helpful in some way.
I followed your example and went on to rebuild my radial nissin master cylinder,as it had started feeling too spongy. Step by step as you described it, only I used lithium grease in the end for the pivot pin. Thank you for making it easier for me! Keep up your good work and always ride safe friend.
great tutorial, I've this type of cylinder. Just wonder is there a direction of seating for the circular clip. Many are saying there is a flat side which shall be outwards. However in mine outside was the rounded when I opened. I need to re assemble it and feeling lost what way shall I mount it back or if direction even matters at all.
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. In many applications, the orientation is unimportant. However; there is a correct way if you want to be specific about it. In this case, I'd say it doesn't matter. But c-clips are supposed to be oriented with the flat side touching the part it intends to retain to ensure a secure fit. So smooth-side out would be appropriate in this case although its orientation is not a critical component of the assembly process. I hope this helps and thank you for watching. Ride safe and Subscribe if you haven't already! Cheers!
My piston is jammed inside the master cylinder (giggity) but now I know why I wasn't getting any pressure from the handle it was just flopping back and forth like a limp.... you get the point.
Have you considered trying to gravity bleed your system? Also, sometimes you need to prime the master cylinder after rebuilding it by removing the brake line at the master cylinder, cover the hole where the brake line was with your thumb, then squeeze the brake lever a few times. You should eventually feel some air pressure behind your thumb. Allow the air pressure to escape but try to not let much air back in when you release the lever. Do this until you primarily have fluid trying to squeeze past your thumb, then quickly reinstall the brake line and proceed with a gravity bleed. After the gravity bleed is done, continue to bleed as normal. I hope this helps!
No problem. Thanks for letting me know. Glad i could help. Hopefully some of my other videos would also be of use to you or your friends. Good luck out there.
I replaced the seals like in this video on my cbr 954rr. My problem is once everything is put back together and I fill the resivouir with fluid, I cant get fluid to fill the brake lines or get pressure to build on the brake lever. Tried bleeding them forever, also tried a vacuum line on the caliper's and couldnt get any fluid down the brake lines. At a loss for how to "pressurise" the brakes and get them working again.
Usually when this happens, you need to purge out the air in your master cylinder. You can do this by removing the brake lines attached to your master cylinder, remove reservoir cap and bladder, place your thumb over the hole that your brake lines were attached to, then pump your brake lever. You should feel air pressure push your thumb off. Allow the air to pass your thumb but keep the hole sealed when you release the brake lever. Do this as many times as you need until fluid comes out then quickly reinstall your brake lines. Alternatively, you could do a reverse brake bleed where you fill a syringe with brake fluid and force the fluid through your calipers and up your brake lines to the reservoir. I hope this helps you! Good luck!
Make syre that you try covering the master cylinder with your finger (where the banjo bolt is supposed to attach) then pull the lever to pressurize the system. Then after the air slips past your finger, put the brake line back then gravity bleed for a few mins before trying to bleed conventionally again. Let me know how it goes!
WHAT FRONT LEVERS DO YOU HAVE I BROKE MY LEVER AND YOU ARE THE ONLY PERSON I HAVE FOUND THAT HAVE WHAT LOOKS LIKE THE SAME BRAKE LEVER AND I CANNOT FIND A REPLACEMENT
Tristian Carlo i ordered it through ridenow powersports. Any dealer for your bike should be able to order it. But if that is too much of a hassle where you live, www.bikebandit.com is another good spot to order parts from. Good luck with your project.
I was trying to bleed my front brake to put new fluid in. I was able to drain out the old fluid by gravity through the bottom bleed valve, but after that, i was unable to push new fluid through. What might be the problem?
Sounds like you may need to purge your masyer cylinder. Usually you may need to remove the brake cables from the master cylinder and cover up the hole with your thumb while depressing the brake lever. You will feel air pressure push your thumb off and you want to let some air out but not back in. Repeat this until you have mainly fluid behind your thumb then quickly put the brake lines back on the master cylinder. This will purge air from the master cylinder and allow the plunger to push fluid through the system. Hopefully this helps! Good luck with your project!
Also, if you are just bleeding the brakes and you aren't replacing anything in your brake system, you never want to let the reservoir run dry when bleeding or gravity bleeding or you may run into this problem.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks for the. advice. It's a salvage bike and i wanted to clear out all the old fluid to be replace with new. I pump and close for 5 mins but I still get nothing. I'll try the MC bleed.
@@bex622 Awesome! Project bikes are always fun and rewarding. Definitely try the MC bleed. It should help you or at least remove a variable from the issue.
I'm working on my cruiser as we speak. I'm shooting my next video. I think I finally found the problem with my bike. Wasn't what I thought it was. But I'll see in a few minutes if what I found is the culprit.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I saw people using like scredrivers to get them on etc. Im waiting for mine to arrive, hope I won't have much problems to get it done and after that to bleed the system, especially cuz I don't have bleed niple on master cylinder. Also, I wanted to remove the reservoir but now I see that I can done it without it so I don't have to unbolt the brake line from the reservoir.
They do in most models, maybe he bought a non genuine kit. I have a rebuild kit here genuine Yamaha 2005 r1 and it’s all already assembled rubbers on the piston.
I literally just used this tutorial to rebuild my 07 Yamaha R1 master cylinder. Best how to guide I've found and it was play for play. Great video.
Hey! I'm glad I could help! Thanks a lot for letting me know if this video was helpful to you. Subscribe if you haven't already. My channel is all about getting people to save money by keeping their bikes away from the "stealership" as much as possible. I hope to hear from you in my other videos. Ride safe! Cheers!
Earnest 08 R1 I'm watching now
Yes sir. I would buy you a beer. I've haven't seen many videos on the rebuilding of the master cylinder. So that's what I need to do tomorrow. Thanks
Thanks! If you would actually like to buy me a beer, you can click the link at the top of my description if you'd like to toss any donation my way. It would be greatly appreciated. Glad I could help you out and I hope your project goes as planned. If you ever get stuck, I usually reply to comments regarding questions during projects so don't hesitate to ask. Good luck and ride safe! Cheers!
I thought this was going to be super hard, but you made it look easy. Keep up the good video's man
dt_ thanks. Yea it is a very easy job. What messes people up sometimes is bleeding the brakes but as long as you know what you are doing there, the rebuild is the easy part. I hope this helps your rebuild if you do one soon. Thanks for your comment. It is greatly appreciated.
Just rebuilt my '06 636 MC today using his vid, thanks a bunch 💪🏻
You too huh? Did your front brake feel like if should after the rebuild? Read in the forums that some people have reoccurring problems with the 05 06 636 MC. Was considering upgrading to a newer models MC but figured if try to rebuild if first and sore how that went.
Thanks! I'm glad it worked out for you. I've had a few people tell me it is their go-to video for whenever a rebuild is needed. Glad to be so helpful in some way.
@@ThisisForTheTV there's no denying an upgrade is better, but mine definitely improved noticably, especially on track where it gets abused
I've Just ordered the kit for my 05 636. Hopefully improves the feel and strength or its getting a MC upgrade too
Really helpful mate cheers made it simple any really good camera angles for showing how to do thanks 👍
I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I wanted to understand what's inside those things and this gave a really clear view of it.
I followed your example and went on to rebuild my radial nissin master cylinder,as it had started feeling too spongy. Step by step as you described it, only I used lithium grease in the end for the pivot pin. Thank you for making it easier for me! Keep up your good work and always ride safe friend.
Np problem. Glad i could help. Check out my other vids. Hopefully they can help you too
Excellent commentary and camera work. This is my go to video before doing this job. Done it a couple of times now on different bikes
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate that. 🙏 i'm really happy I've managed to help you in some way. Hope all your projects run smooth. Ride safe!
Great demonstration
Thank you so much! I hope it managed to be helpful in some way!
Thanks a millio! A very good in informative video 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! I hope it will be helpful to you! Ride safe!
Great tutorial. Thanks for making the video.
great tutorial, I've this type of cylinder. Just wonder is there a direction of seating for the circular clip. Many are saying there is a flat side which shall be outwards. However in mine outside was the rounded when I opened. I need to re assemble it and feeling lost what way shall I mount it back or if direction even matters at all.
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. In many applications, the orientation is unimportant. However; there is a correct way if you want to be specific about it. In this case, I'd say it doesn't matter. But c-clips are supposed to be oriented with the flat side touching the part it intends to retain to ensure a secure fit. So smooth-side out would be appropriate in this case although its orientation is not a critical component of the assembly process. I hope this helps and thank you for watching. Ride safe and Subscribe if you haven't already! Cheers!
Hey brother, I appreciate the video, I’m working on my friends bike and this was perfect
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad I was able to help. I hope it was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Shiny side up! Cheers!
Good informative video. 🍻
Thank you so much! I'm trying my best.
Super helpful man. About to go tackle my 08 z1k!
Good luck! Keep me posted and subscribe if you haven't already.
My piston is jammed inside the master cylinder (giggity) but now I know why I wasn't getting any pressure from the handle it was just flopping back and forth like a limp.... you get the point.
Lol. Hey it's awesome you were able to figure out the problem!
Hi mate! Not sure if you can help but I have rebuilt the master cylinder but fluid still won’t go through. Any suggestions? Thanks
Have you considered trying to gravity bleed your system? Also, sometimes you need to prime the master cylinder after rebuilding it by removing the brake line at the master cylinder, cover the hole where the brake line was with your thumb, then squeeze the brake lever a few times. You should eventually feel some air pressure behind your thumb. Allow the air pressure to escape but try to not let much air back in when you release the lever. Do this until you primarily have fluid trying to squeeze past your thumb, then quickly reinstall the brake line and proceed with a gravity bleed. After the gravity bleed is done, continue to bleed as normal. I hope this helps!
that was the reason I need the rear master cylinder rebuild
lol
THANK YOU for this tutorial guide Boss good job
No problem. Thanks for letting me know. Glad i could help. Hopefully some of my other videos would also be of use to you or your friends. Good luck out there.
Thank you so much for this video
Where can i find this repair kit?, This video is so informative I want to try to rebuild mine.
This is an Amazon affiliate link. You can pick it up here. Good luck with your project. amzn.to/2PQxNwF
Nice one
I replaced the seals like in this video on my cbr 954rr. My problem is once everything is put back together and I fill the resivouir with fluid, I cant get fluid to fill the brake lines or get pressure to build on the brake lever. Tried bleeding them forever, also tried a vacuum line on the caliper's and couldnt get any fluid down the brake lines. At a loss for how to "pressurise" the brakes and get them working again.
Usually when this happens, you need to purge out the air in your master cylinder. You can do this by removing the brake lines attached to your master cylinder, remove reservoir cap and bladder, place your thumb over the hole that your brake lines were attached to, then pump your brake lever. You should feel air pressure push your thumb off. Allow the air to pass your thumb but keep the hole sealed when you release the brake lever. Do this as many times as you need until fluid comes out then quickly reinstall your brake lines. Alternatively, you could do a reverse brake bleed where you fill a syringe with brake fluid and force the fluid through your calipers and up your brake lines to the reservoir. I hope this helps you! Good luck!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks for the reply i'll give those a try!
I'm not sure if I did something wrong but I followed your video and when I try to do the brake bleed nothing is happening. No fluid coming out.
Make syre that you try covering the master cylinder with your finger (where the banjo bolt is supposed to attach) then pull the lever to pressurize the system. Then after the air slips past your finger, put the brake line back then gravity bleed for a few mins before trying to bleed conventionally again. Let me know how it goes!
WHAT FRONT LEVERS DO YOU HAVE I BROKE MY LEVER AND YOU ARE THE ONLY PERSON I HAVE FOUND THAT HAVE WHAT LOOKS LIKE THE SAME BRAKE LEVER AND I CANNOT FIND A REPLACEMENT
amzn.to/3sehYAN
Hey can you tell me where did you buy your brake repair kit .i need to fix mga brakes
Tristian Carlo i ordered it through ridenow powersports. Any dealer for your bike should be able to order it. But if that is too much of a hassle where you live, www.bikebandit.com is another good spot to order parts from. Good luck with your project.
Cms
Where is the one you ordered? Because the one I ordered from the link didn’t bring the pin I was looking for
amzn.to/2GS8QM4
This is the exact item # of the kit i got
@@TheMotorcycleBoss do you know by any chance if this will fit a 2007 ZX6r?
@@josesorto4121 your best bet is to go to www.bikebandit.com and see if the item # is the same. If it is, then yes. If not, then no
Could this work for a 2006 zx6r
The process is similar
I was trying to bleed my front brake to put new fluid in. I was able to drain out the old fluid by gravity through the bottom bleed valve, but after that, i was unable to push new fluid through. What might be the problem?
Sounds like you may need to purge your masyer cylinder. Usually you may need to remove the brake cables from the master cylinder and cover up the hole with your thumb while depressing the brake lever. You will feel air pressure push your thumb off and you want to let some air out but not back in. Repeat this until you have mainly fluid behind your thumb then quickly put the brake lines back on the master cylinder. This will purge air from the master cylinder and allow the plunger to push fluid through the system. Hopefully this helps! Good luck with your project!
Also, if you are just bleeding the brakes and you aren't replacing anything in your brake system, you never want to let the reservoir run dry when bleeding or gravity bleeding or you may run into this problem.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks for the. advice. It's a salvage bike and i wanted to clear out all the old fluid to be replace with new. I pump and close for 5 mins but I still get nothing. I'll try the MC bleed.
@@bex622 Awesome! Project bikes are always fun and rewarding. Definitely try the MC bleed. It should help you or at least remove a variable from the issue.
I'm working on my cruiser as we speak. I'm shooting my next video. I think I finally found the problem with my bike. Wasn't what I thought it was. But I'll see in a few minutes if what I found is the culprit.
If there were to be corrosion in there, how would you go about cleaning it?
You can use fine steel wool or a scotchbrite pad. This may also require removing the brake lines to thoroughly clean it up afterwards.
My piston is seized inside the cylinder. Can’t get it out
I would try soaking it in penetrating oil and maybe even try compressed air if possible
What do you do if there is rust inside
You can use fine steel wool or a scotchbrite pad. This may also require removing the brake lines to thoroughly clean it up afterwards.
So did it end up helping ?
Not as much as I hoped. However; the steel-braided brake lines stiffined things up a bit.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Yeah I rebuilt my MC and bled the front brakes with the vac system. Didn't really help much .
I dont get why they dont put the seals on the pistons in the factory...
I wish they did. Putting the rings on really sucks!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I saw people using like scredrivers to get them on etc. Im waiting for mine to arrive, hope I won't have much problems to get it done and after that to bleed the system, especially cuz I don't have bleed niple on master cylinder.
Also, I wanted to remove the reservoir but now I see that I can done it without it so I don't have to unbolt the brake line from the reservoir.
They do in most models, maybe he bought a non genuine kit. I have a rebuild kit here genuine Yamaha 2005 r1 and it’s all already assembled rubbers on the piston.