Best guitar building tutorials…ever. Full stop. Thank you for doing all these videos, I’m slowly working my way through them all and loving every minute.
At 17:14 I literally said out loud, "Half....the bearing," LOL. This is far from my first guitar building video, but it's my first video by this gentleman, and he is clearly an excellent teacher.
Ciao Steve ti seguo dall' Italia e grazie ai tuoi video ho cominciato a fare la mia prima T- Style, grazie a te ho scoperto moltissime tecniche e sono riuscito a produrre i miei themplates, ti ammiro profondamente per le tue capacità nella liuteria e per l' amore che metti nelle spiegazioni che fai. Ti faccio ancora tantissimi complimenti e continuerò a seguirti con grande piacere. Scusami se scrivo in italiano ma il mio inglese scritto non è il massimo, lascio una semplice traduzione per non complicarti la lettura. ;) Hi Steve I follow you from Italy and thanks to your videos I started making my first T-Style, thanks to you I discovered many techniques and I managed to produce my themplates, I admire you deeply for your skills in liuthery and for the love you put into the explanations you make. I still give you many compliments and I will continue to follow you with great pleasure. Excuse me if I write in Italian but my written English is not the best, I leave a simple translation so as not to complicate your reading. ;)
Sorry for the delay. I forget what it was...was that for a trem cavity from the top? If so, I only need to go about 1.125" deep...and I can get that with my standard 1/2"x1/2" spiral bit if I only put the minimum amount of shank in the collet.
I found the following cavity depths for a telecaster online. Are they far afield from your template? Does the slight variation matter much? Neck Pocket Depth: 5/8" (16 mm) Neck Pickup Cavity Depth: 3/4" (19 mm) Bridge Pickup Cavity Depth: 7/8" (22 mm) Switch/Volume/Tone Cavity Depth: 1 1/2" (38 mm) Thanks for any advice you have.
Doesn't matter at all...it is all builder preference and hardware dictated. Neck pocket for a flat top guitar with "F" style bridge would be 5/8" for a standard 1" thick neck. Pocket has to be adjusted if neck thickness varies. Pickup cavities should be at a depth for the pickups...but going too deep could be a problem if you have a trem spring cavity on the back....especially if you are making a thinner body. Electronics cavities should be as deep as needed for the components...but I never leave less than 1/4" on the opposite side of the guitar. Bottom line...guidelines are helpful...but critical thought processes are more important.
Regarding cavity depth: As it turns out, import bodies often have a more shallow depth than the American made bodies. The body itself may even be smaller. I had a cheap T body as a practice piece, to which I routed deeper cavities, to be able to fit American electronics. Worked quite well. Turned out to be a great guitar.
One of my first Tele guitars I built was only 1.25" (32mm) thick. I made the body out of a piece of knotty pine that was the top of a desk I made is school shop in 1980. Cool guitar...but I had to get creative on the pickup selector.
Typically the “swimming pool” rout is for ease of manufacturing to have compatibility with multiple pickup configurations. I suppose an individual could also desire that adaptability. However, I like to have more support for my pickguards.
I have a question: some companies that make T style guitars, have started doing carves on the backside of the lower horn. Where the side of your hand would rest while playing up high on the neck. Like a large roundover, sort of. Suhr is one company that does this. Are you familiar with this? How can this be achieved? I was thinking either a large roundover bit, or a spindle sander could work. How would you do it? Any recommendations?
I have never done that. I suppose if I was doing one guitar every now and then I would just use my dragon files. If I wanted to to production (and it was not being done on a CNC), I would probably rig up a jig for my oscillating spindle sander. Maybe I should try that some time.
Hey serious question here... By the way incredible video and your templates are top notch... But why not use hand tools since it seems the router has so many possibilities for things to go awry. I just started building guitars, and I've been to afraid to chance anything with a router
Using table and hand routers are an elementary skill for building electric guitars. Combined with good templates, there is no substitute for the accuracy, repeatability, and efficiency. It is ok to have a fearful respect for power tools…but using any tool well requires good techniques and practice. In the classes I have taught, I have only had a couple students that wanted to do things by hand…and they fell behind the rest of the class…and their results were not good. If you are nervous about messing up your guitar, you need to practice on scrap wood first. Follow good instruction…be safe…and practice…and you will never look back.
Hey Judi...thank you for you comment and question. The bit is in fact a Whiteside...model 3000. I use many brand bits...but I am a fan of Whiteside bits. Whiteside Router Bits 3000 Template Bit with Ball Bearing www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZX4W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7S41RMC6YH5XQEW37V60
Best guitar building tutorials…ever. Full stop. Thank you for doing all these videos, I’m slowly working my way through them all and loving every minute.
Nicely done!
i appretiate the student pop quiz commment. that helped me remember to think about the bearing.
At 17:14 I literally said out loud, "Half....the bearing," LOL. This is far from my first guitar building video, but it's my first video by this gentleman, and he is clearly an excellent teacher.
Did I over emphasize that point? ;-)
Ciao Steve ti seguo dall' Italia e grazie ai tuoi video ho cominciato a fare la mia prima T- Style, grazie a te ho scoperto moltissime tecniche e sono riuscito a produrre i miei themplates, ti ammiro profondamente per le tue capacità nella liuteria e per l' amore che metti nelle spiegazioni che fai. Ti faccio ancora tantissimi complimenti e continuerò a seguirti con grande piacere. Scusami se scrivo in italiano ma il mio inglese scritto non è il massimo, lascio una semplice traduzione per non complicarti la lettura. ;)
Hi Steve I follow you from Italy and thanks to your videos I started making my first T-Style, thanks to you I discovered many techniques and I managed to produce my themplates, I admire you deeply for your skills in liuthery and for the love you put into the explanations you make. I still give you many compliments and I will continue to follow you with great pleasure. Excuse me if I write in Italian but my written English is not the best, I leave a simple translation so as not to complicate your reading. ;)
Thank you very much Lorenzo. Glad the videos are a help.
Did you ever make the video on how to repair gouges/damage to the acrylic templates. Asking for a friend…
Hopefully I can order my templates this week, been making charcuterie boards lol
Whenever you are ready...."Bob". ;-)
What is the cutting length of that bit for the bridge pocket
Sorry for the delay. I forget what it was...was that for a trem cavity from the top? If so, I only need to go about 1.125" deep...and I can get that with my standard 1/2"x1/2" spiral bit if I only put the minimum amount of shank in the collet.
I found the following cavity depths for a telecaster online. Are they far afield from your template? Does the slight variation matter much?
Neck Pocket Depth: 5/8" (16 mm)
Neck Pickup Cavity Depth: 3/4" (19 mm)
Bridge Pickup Cavity Depth: 7/8" (22 mm)
Switch/Volume/Tone Cavity Depth: 1 1/2" (38 mm)
Thanks for any advice you have.
Doesn't matter at all...it is all builder preference and hardware dictated.
Neck pocket for a flat top guitar with "F" style bridge would be 5/8" for a standard 1" thick neck. Pocket has to be adjusted if neck thickness varies.
Pickup cavities should be at a depth for the pickups...but going too deep could be a problem if you have a trem spring cavity on the back....especially if you are making a thinner body.
Electronics cavities should be as deep as needed for the components...but I never leave less than 1/4" on the opposite side of the guitar.
Bottom line...guidelines are helpful...but critical thought processes are more important.
@@maximumguitarworks Thank you! This is my first time attempting a build from the ground up, and I appreciate your expertise.
Regarding cavity depth: As it turns out, import bodies often have a more shallow depth than the American made bodies. The body itself may even be smaller. I had a cheap T body as a practice piece, to which I routed deeper cavities, to be able to fit American electronics. Worked quite well. Turned out to be a great guitar.
One of my first Tele guitars I built was only 1.25" (32mm) thick. I made the body out of a piece of knotty pine that was the top of a desk I made is school shop in 1980. Cool guitar...but I had to get creative on the pickup selector.
This is great! Would it be wise to have one big pickup cavity?
Typically the “swimming pool” rout is for ease of manufacturing to have compatibility with multiple pickup configurations. I suppose an individual could also desire that adaptability. However, I like to have more support for my pickguards.
Another question. Are the pocket depths listed on the templates including or excluding the thickness of the template?
Would you consider making neck templates with padel head so a person can design their own head stock?
Yes. I have also made customized headstocks for others. Email me to discuss.
I have a question: some companies that make T style guitars, have started doing carves on the backside of the lower horn. Where the side of your hand would rest while playing up high on the neck. Like a large roundover, sort of. Suhr is one company that does this. Are you familiar with this? How can this be achieved? I was thinking either a large roundover bit, or a spindle sander could work. How would you do it? Any recommendations?
I have never done that. I suppose if I was doing one guitar every now and then I would just use my dragon files. If I wanted to to production (and it was not being done on a CNC), I would probably rig up a jig for my oscillating spindle sander. Maybe I should try that some time.
Hey serious question here...
By the way incredible video and your templates are top notch...
But why not use hand tools since it seems the router has so many possibilities for things to go awry.
I just started building guitars, and I've been to afraid to chance anything with a router
Using table and hand routers are an elementary skill for building electric guitars. Combined with good templates, there is no substitute for the accuracy, repeatability, and efficiency. It is ok to have a fearful respect for power tools…but using any tool well requires good techniques and practice.
In the classes I have taught, I have only had a couple students that wanted to do things by hand…and they fell behind the rest of the class…and their results were not good.
If you are nervous about messing up your guitar, you need to practice on scrap wood first. Follow good instruction…be safe…and practice…and you will never look back.
Very good answer! Well worded! You have a gift to teach!
As usual, great video Steve. What’s the make and model of the 1/8” router bit you talked about? Whitesides?
Hey Judi...thank you for you comment and question. The bit is in fact a Whiteside...model 3000. I use many brand bits...but I am a fan of Whiteside bits.
Whiteside Router Bits 3000 Template Bit with Ball Bearing www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZX4W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7S41RMC6YH5XQEW37V60