That’s a super nice looking kit!! It makes me wish I wasn’t modeling prototypical locations and structures. Kudos!! Suggestion, if I may? Consider creating an extendable low relief background building with the rail-served side of this structure. I feel like that might open up sale opportunities to those who model narrower shelf layouts. If it is financially feasible to do so that is. Keep up the great work, sir!
@toddfeldpausch9489 Thanks! This is actually a prototype building in Little Falls NY, I took the measurements straight from it (albeit compressed it a bit). I do have plans for future, more shallow relief structures. It's all done in that elusive thing called spare time lol
Great video Joey. This is awesome lokking, i really like it. You did a nice job designing this building. I would like something like this only not as deep. Maybe we can come up with something
@BoxcarJerry Thanks, I simply worked off of the actual prototype building for the dimensions. Others have expressed interest in shallower kit options as well, so expect something like that to be worked on in the future. :)
Super kit! Just like some of the food distribution centers I managed. 1 suggestion for an added extension, a cold storage extension, slightly higher (to allow for the interior evaporator units in a prototype). Also, possibly deeper with no rail service area for the cold storage area. I went to purchase but I see it is out of stock. A waitlist option on the website would be nice. I am sure many others like myself will hop on purchasing this kit!
@stevechilders2425 thanks for the suggestions. This is all in my spare time, so it takes a while to get these things produced (and this kit has a lot of parts to engrave). I should have some stock up on the site today. Thanks for your interest!
Nice looking kits. What about a couple different types of "brick painting masks" cut out of really thin MDF. Maybe a couple different ones that are staggered to get the random look one is after, that you could lay on top of the brick wall and spray? That is a lot more appealing to me than the one brick at a time.
I've cut my own masks with terrible results... problem is, no matter what I used, lining the mask up proved nearly impossible... I've laser cut several tape brands (Tamiya, blue painters tape, and traditional masking tape)... yeah, they all stretch, deform, tear, ect. I would consider myself a more "advanced " modeler, having built these for many years. Using laser board maskes... we'll no mater how small the mask, they "warp Up resulting 8n bleeding... I have great airbrush skills... masks just aren't practical. The best way, is to engineer the brick detail to be 3mm x 1mm (which is slightly oversized in scale) but not noticed once on the structure. The 3mm width matches cheap flat brushes from Amazon. I could paint that walls in a couple hours.
@SkipJack1950 The brick detail is already 3mm x 1mm, actually, mostly because the material is 3mm thick, so that the corners look correct. It's also far easier to measure and match patterns with that size. I've since picked up some acrylic paint markers and it goes far faster now. It's all up to how detailed a modeler wants to get with their builds, though. Going forward with larger structures I'll probably just keep the walls a more solid color and just add weathering techniques. I'll reserve the brick-by-brick to smaller structures lol
@JoeyBPhotography completely understand... I've only seen your kit on the video, so was only making a point about the individual brick painting technique. I use a very porous filter sponge material to perform the sparce "sponge technique" with great success. I also apply watered down wood filler as mortar with impressive results. I prime the MDF with "gloss" white or light gray spray paint, to seal the mdf before coloring using very diluted Tamiya & IPA with a "marble " pattern of multiple brick & earth tones using airbrush, followed by my mortar technique resulting in a superior brick texture. Just as the wood filler starts to skin over, I use my finger moisten with water to remove the mortar from the brick... the grit in the woof filler scuffs the Tamiya paint that is very convincing to weathered brick. Overspay with dirty brick tone IPA (very diluted) to unify the surface. Follow up with cheap craft paint VERY THIN washes of weathering tones, and... TA-DA!!! The magic of art transformed the MDF into a hyper realistic brick wall that would even impress Boomer Diorama and Hollywood LOL. -Happy Modeling 😁
@SkipJack1950 Thanks for detailing your technique! I didn't even think to use wood filler as a mortar, very interesting. I currently use "Robert's Brick Mortar Formula" when I want to fill in the mortar lines and it works well. I like to tint it with acrylic inks to avoid stark white mortar lines. Thanks for the reply, I'll have to experiment with what you wrote up here. Happy modeling as well!
Love your videos - Just recently got into modelling as a wargamer. I did have a question on one of your videos, specifically the concrete road one. Do you happen to remember what grit sanding sponge you used for that? Comments weren't enabled on that video or else I would of asked there. Thanks in advanced!
@kenkerber-gl2ng Yes. I'll rattle can the enamel, then sponge on the acrylic, then use fine brushes, etc., on the tiny details. If I decide to add light colored mortar I apply that last using Robert's Mortar Formula. If the mortar is intended to be dark I just leave it alone as the unpainted engraved lines are dark enough for my taste
Modeling the 1960's would be older buildings with the corbels and trim detail at the top of the wall (expensive & a lost art in today's construction. I really like the older buildings... similar to the DPM kits. That style architecture was really appealing and dates the era modeled.
@@Blue_Dingo I managed distribution centers such as this style and most were 1960s but I am familiar with a couple others built in the early 50s. many of the age differences were the height, with 50/60s being 20-25' interior clear, 70s with 30' clear (add 4' for exteriors) and 80s+ even higher
I really enjoyed watching this scale model building being assembled. Very well Professional job Late Night Model Railroader. 👍
@@haroldalexis4200 Thanks for watching!
Love the building! Some background skinny buildings would be cool! Very nice!
WOW Joey, that building is huge... very impressive... I love your kits!!!
That’s a super nice looking kit!! It makes me wish I wasn’t modeling prototypical locations and structures. Kudos!!
Suggestion, if I may?
Consider creating an extendable low relief background building with the rail-served side of this structure. I feel like that might open up sale opportunities to those who model narrower shelf layouts. If it is financially feasible to do so that is.
Keep up the great work, sir!
@toddfeldpausch9489 Thanks! This is actually a prototype building in Little Falls NY, I took the measurements straight from it (albeit compressed it a bit). I do have plans for future, more shallow relief structures. It's all done in that elusive thing called spare time lol
That's a nice building. Now I need build a Free-Mo module for it.
Nice open interior definitely would be easy to leave an open door and ad some shadowbox interior!
Hi Late Night Model Railroad & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Late Night Model Railroad & Friends Randy
Looks terrific!
Very nice. It's a great kit.
Great video Joey. This is awesome lokking, i really like it. You did a nice job designing this building.
I would like something like this only not as deep. Maybe we can come up with something
@BoxcarJerry Thanks, I simply worked off of the actual prototype building for the dimensions. Others have expressed interest in shallower kit options as well, so expect something like that to be worked on in the future. :)
Looks great.
Super kit! Just like some of the food distribution centers I managed. 1 suggestion for an added extension, a cold storage extension, slightly higher (to allow for the interior evaporator units in a prototype). Also, possibly deeper with no rail service area for the cold storage area. I went to purchase but I see it is out of stock. A waitlist option on the website would be nice. I am sure many others like myself will hop on purchasing this kit!
@stevechilders2425 thanks for the suggestions. This is all in my spare time, so it takes a while to get these things produced (and this kit has a lot of parts to engrave). I should have some stock up on the site today. Thanks for your interest!
@@JoeyBPhotography I am patient, no problem. Much better and more realistic than most other manufacturers. Thanks
@stevechilders2425 Thanks I appreciate that comment! I work right from the prototype buildings for the measurements.
Nice looking kits. What about a couple different types of "brick painting masks" cut out of really thin MDF. Maybe a couple different ones that are staggered to get the random look one is after, that you could lay on top of the brick wall and spray? That is a lot more appealing to me than the one brick at a time.
@@scotabot7826 I thought about using stencil material for something like that, I just haven't gotten around to trying it out
I've cut my own masks with terrible results... problem is, no matter what I used, lining the mask up proved nearly impossible... I've laser cut several tape brands (Tamiya, blue painters tape, and traditional masking tape)... yeah, they all stretch, deform, tear, ect. I would consider myself a more "advanced " modeler, having built these for many years. Using laser board maskes... we'll no mater how small the mask, they "warp Up resulting 8n bleeding... I have great airbrush skills... masks just aren't practical.
The best way, is to engineer the brick detail to be 3mm x 1mm (which is slightly oversized in scale) but not noticed once on the structure. The 3mm width matches cheap flat brushes from Amazon. I could paint that walls in a couple hours.
@SkipJack1950 The brick detail is already 3mm x 1mm, actually, mostly because the material is 3mm thick, so that the corners look correct. It's also far easier to measure and match patterns with that size. I've since picked up some acrylic paint markers and it goes far faster now. It's all up to how detailed a modeler wants to get with their builds, though. Going forward with larger structures I'll probably just keep the walls a more solid color and just add weathering techniques. I'll reserve the brick-by-brick to smaller structures lol
@JoeyBPhotography completely understand... I've only seen your kit on the video, so was only making a point about the individual brick painting technique. I use a very porous filter sponge material to perform the sparce "sponge technique" with great success. I also apply watered down wood filler as mortar with impressive results. I prime the MDF with "gloss" white or light gray spray paint, to seal the mdf before coloring using very diluted Tamiya & IPA with a "marble " pattern of multiple brick & earth tones using airbrush, followed by my mortar technique resulting in a superior brick texture. Just as the wood filler starts to skin over, I use my finger moisten with water to remove the mortar from the brick... the grit in the woof filler scuffs the Tamiya paint that is very convincing to weathered brick. Overspay with dirty brick tone IPA (very diluted) to unify the surface. Follow up with cheap craft paint VERY THIN washes of weathering tones, and... TA-DA!!! The magic of art transformed the MDF into a hyper realistic brick wall that would even impress Boomer Diorama and Hollywood LOL. -Happy Modeling 😁
@SkipJack1950 Thanks for detailing your technique! I didn't even think to use wood filler as a mortar, very interesting. I currently use "Robert's Brick Mortar Formula" when I want to fill in the mortar lines and it works well. I like to tint it with acrylic inks to avoid stark white mortar lines. Thanks for the reply, I'll have to experiment with what you wrote up here. Happy modeling as well!
Love your videos - Just recently got into modelling as a wargamer. I did have a question on one of your videos, specifically the concrete road one. Do you happen to remember what grit sanding sponge you used for that? Comments weren't enabled on that video or else I would of asked there. Thanks in advanced!
Good looking model. Any plans for offering an n-scale version?
@@ronheiser3248 There will be something similar in N scale, but not this exact building
Great build. can u make it in N scale. I will buy it. thanks
@barryolson8428 There will be something similar in N scale some day, but it won't be exactly this building.
Do u apply enamel by can then acrylic by sponge
@kenkerber-gl2ng Yes. I'll rattle can the enamel, then sponge on the acrylic, then use fine brushes, etc., on the tiny details. If I decide to add light colored mortar I apply that last using Robert's Mortar Formula. If the mortar is intended to be dark I just leave it alone as the unpainted engraved lines are dark enough for my taste
What do u use first? Paint wise. Enamel or acrylic spray or brush
@kenkerber-gl2ng If I use enamel at all I apply it first, then acrylics
Do you sell the paint chip boards for color matching?
@barryolson8428 no that's just something I whipped up on the fly one day
Is this kit available in n scale
@@modelmantstewart1292 No, but I am working on a different styled N scale warehouse
What year was the Prototype built?
@@Blue_Dingo I'm not exactly sure, but I do know that it was operated out of back in 1985.
@@JoeyBPhotography The reason I ask is it's beautiful, but I model 1964.
@Blue_Dingo Thanks, if I find more information on its original build date I'll post it
Modeling the 1960's would be older buildings with the corbels and trim detail at the top of the wall (expensive & a lost art in today's construction. I really like the older buildings... similar to the DPM kits. That style architecture was really appealing and dates the era modeled.
@@Blue_Dingo I managed distribution centers such as this style and most were 1960s but I am familiar with a couple others built in the early 50s. many of the age differences were the height, with 50/60s being 20-25' interior clear, 70s with 30' clear (add 4' for exteriors) and 80s+ even higher