I have been following some of these “upgrade” videos. Would be interested to see a tire balanced on a stock balancer and one with this upgrade. Based on some other videos showing the principle but not applied to these balancers , would be to replace the pin with a bolt with “planed” or “smoothed” head and a ball bearing in the cone of the balancer. The bearing being large enough to “rock” on the bolt head. I think for testing or may even last permanent, the bearing could be superglued to the cone after the cone was drilled to roughly 80% of the diameter of the bearing. I’m going to try that on mine when I get it. Thanks for sharing !
I gave up with the HF balancer I bought and went 2 different ways, This is my preferred method ruclips.net/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/видео.html Then skip along to time index 10:19 for the balancing. There is a separate video linked in the text underneath that has the proof of why it works
Smokey.....can I ask how you centered the pivot.....as its so important.....its hard to see with out machine tools how it can be done accurately. You nut looks to be to one side slightly. Saying that.....if the bubble is centered each time before use would that sort it.
Ive made the same way. But also few more mods: better screw for seting zero on bubble to make more stable and I made bigger bubble for more accurate (by leaking hole on buttom - less water bigger bubble)
The old school bubble balancers had a ball and flat surface that only came in contact after you loaded the tire on and pressed a pedal or moved a leaver. This protected the critical surfaces and centered the top every time. That was of course taken out by the makers of this thing, because of $$$.
I gave up with the HF balancer I bought (so many issues) and went 2 different ways. This is now my preferred method ruclips.net/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/видео.html Then skip along to time index 10:19 for the balancing. There is a separate video linked in the text underneath, that has the proof of why it works on most wheels.
@@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESEL Bead balancing does work! This guy has a nice proof ruclips.net/video/DKdSys-TtwA/видео.html He can only do it that way, for his 2CV wheels.
The grade 8 bolt was already hardened. Annealing is the process of softening metal. I would say he probably made the grade 8 bolt softer than it was and made the punch harder by ''annealing'' it.
No that's definitely not true. I could tell you without a doubt, whenever we heat these grade eight bolts up with a torch and sink it into water instantly. You will never tighten that bolt up. It will shatter like glass. In other words way harder files will skip without biting
I have been following some of these “upgrade” videos. Would be interested to see a tire balanced on a stock balancer and one with this upgrade. Based on some other videos showing the principle but not applied to these balancers , would be to replace the pin with a bolt with “planed” or “smoothed” head and a ball bearing in the cone of the balancer. The bearing being large enough to “rock” on the bolt head. I think for testing or may even last permanent, the bearing could be superglued to the cone after the cone was drilled to roughly 80% of the diameter of the bearing. I’m going to try that on mine when I get it. Thanks for sharing !
That's a awesome idea. Make a video of it when you get it done. I would love to check it out man. Thanks for watching
I gave up with the HF balancer I bought and went 2 different ways, This is my preferred method
ruclips.net/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/видео.html
Then skip along to time index 10:19 for the balancing.
There is a separate video linked in the text underneath that has the proof of why it works
That is a very nice upgrade.
Thank you 🙌🙏🏻
Smokey.....can I ask how you centered the pivot.....as its so important.....its hard to see with out machine tools how it can be done accurately.
You nut looks to be to one side slightly.
Saying that.....if the bubble is centered each time before use would that sort it.
Hello I used a small lathe
Ive made the same way. But also few more mods: better screw for seting zero on bubble to make more stable and I made bigger bubble for more accurate (by leaking hole on buttom - less water bigger bubble)
The old school bubble balancers had a ball and flat surface that only came in contact after you loaded the tire on and pressed a pedal or moved a leaver. This protected the critical surfaces and centered the top every time. That was of course taken out by the makers of this thing, because of $$$.
I gave up with the HF balancer I bought (so many issues) and went 2 different ways.
This is now my preferred method ruclips.net/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/видео.html
Then skip along to time index 10:19 for the balancing.
There is a separate video linked in the text underneath, that has the proof of why it works on most wheels.
Nice work. I actually just beed balance everything now 🙏🏻 smooth on 35-in, tires and also 19.5 in tires
@@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESEL Bead balancing does work!
This guy has a nice proof
ruclips.net/video/DKdSys-TtwA/видео.html
He can only do it that way, for his 2CV wheels.
The grade 8 bolt was already hardened. Annealing is the process of softening metal. I would say he probably made the grade 8 bolt softer than it was and made the punch harder by ''annealing'' it.
No that's definitely not true. I could tell you without a doubt, whenever we heat these grade eight bolts up with a torch and sink it into water instantly. You will never tighten that bolt up. It will shatter like glass. In other words way harder files will skip without biting
And on another note, annealing AKA tempering steel and metal is for hardening, unless you're annealing copper will soften copper
I've noticed that under weight of tire vertical rod is too long and bending so I ve cut to make shorter.
this shit does not work. Reading is always different
Lmao 🤣🤣 maybe you need to set it up better