Nice video - thank you for taking the time to make it. You did the right thing by using the self centering guide for the screw re-install. Here are a few things I do differently. 1. I never try to beat down the strike plate - that will only loosen the screws. 2. Check the hinge side for screw tightness - there is a good chance the hinges loosened up and the door sagged. The deadbolt may have been installed subsequent to the sag. The deadbolt may actually be the misaligned part of the door. 3. I replace the hinge and strike plate screws of exterior doors with #9x3 inch flat head (not bugle head!!) screws that are yellow zinc for corrosion resistance. This will drive the strike plate and hinges in to the studs, and not just the jamb. This will substantially improve the kick open resistance of the door and prevent future sag 4. The mortise is now too large for the strike plate, making the plate subject to movement. To remedy this, I put saran wrap on the strike plate and set it into the mortise filled with epoxy putty. This will embed the plate perfectly in the mortise, and the saran wrap (removed/cut off after curing) will prevent the plate from sticking. The epoxy fills all of the voids from the 1/4" gap above the plate to misadventures from chiseling out the mortise voids behind the strike plate. 5. In lieu of golf tees...another way to fill the old screw hole voids is to make a snake of epoxy putty and fill the old screw holes. The epoxy can be drilled, tapped, filed just like wood, but is stronger and more stable than the wood it replaces, making for a long term repair. In any event, filling the holes really just allows a good pilot hole to be drilled, as I do put in 3 inch screws, reaching the framing. 6. With the work involved, I recommend installing a more substantial combined strike plate that covers the deadbolt and doorknob mechanisms. Take a look at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778XXYSV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1, for a sample. Installed with the above mentioned 3 inch screws remarkably improves the doors kick-in resistance. This presumes a standard 5.5 to 6 inch standard lockset spacing. 7. For the more advanced worker out there, take a look at the Dremel router tool, which gives a smoother base than chiseling. Use a door strike plate installation jig if you are starting from scratch. I hope this helps someone out there to stay safer and get their door to actually work properly. Do not rush the job....
After slightly moving the 1,3,5 knuckles on the door hinge to re-align the door the door knob bolt no longer fit into the striker plate. I used a multi function tool to score the jam then a chisel to remove the excess wood. The striker plate was only moved 1/8" so I used 3" screws to secure the plate to the jam. I always use a screwdriver when installing deadbolts and door knobs. Thank for the excellent video.
thank you from central VA, this DIYer just impressed his wife with some new youtube skills. thanks to this video, i was able to lower a strike plate and secure two loose plates. TIP* the sharper the chisel = better to break those fibers, and the self-centering drill is a nice touch
Thank you so much! I used your “hammer tapping the screwdriver method” and it worked beautifully on my deadbolt strike plate! I’m a senior citizen and can’t afford to pay a handyman. So... God Bless You, and thank you, thank you, thank you!!
Check the reveal around the door to seeif the door has saged. If so add a shim piece behind the hinge to straihhten the door. And everyone should keep their chisels sharp. Good job amd thanks for showing!
I was taught to use a mix of wood glue and saw dust, in a paste consistency. Pack it in with a nail or whatever fits into the hole. Let dry and continue on as you mentioned. The golf tee is easier and faster.
That is a good idea on many doors. This one has a deadbolt so it’s not as necessary. It’s also a glass door so they could knock the glass out and just unlock it.
@@jeffhaberman4331 pro tip: should you feel the need to end your remark with the word "period," you're probably not nearly as correct as you think you are. Good arguments don't require emphasis.
If they would have installed that prehung level and checked all the margins they wouldn’t have that problem . If the door is sagging you can install longer screws on the top hinge and if that doesn’t work you can shim the bottom hinge out or bend the bottom hinge out easy fix
I would have put in longer would screws into the strick plate to insure they would grab well into the 2x4 frame behind the strike plate trim, also longer wood screws into the door latch frame in the foor to also better bugler proof your home from forced entry! Just my 2 cents worth
When you buy most residential lock devices (deadbolts & handles), they usually come with longer screws (1 1/4" to 1 1/2" for the handle, and up to 4" long for the deadbolt) for the door jamb/frame) it takes using either a drill or an impact driver to install those longer screws, to keep 'em straight/level/perpendicular, as they go into the frame... Another thing you can use for screw-hole-filler are dowel rods; many hardware stores have a fairly good selection of diameters, from smaller than a pencil (1/8"-1/4") to the standard 1 1/2" rods you see being used in closets for hanging clothes. If you are between sizes for filling a hole, it's always better to use a knife & pliers, and whittle a larger rod down to accommodate the hole (as I agree with your comment about being better fot the screw to bite into one solid piece of wood, rather than glue-solidified pieces---like toothpicks, for example)... 🤔😉
Is it just me or could you drive a truck through the gap on that door frame? Why not use dowels? Why not replace the broken golf tee dowel? Super glue instead of wood glue? Why is there so much light coming through when you're done (looks like it's gonna have quite a draft)? I have a lot of questions about the methods here. Nice tip on the box knife + chisel to remove small bits. I'm going to try that for sure!
I have to move a deadbolt striker plate horizontally(toward the front of the door) to create a tighter seal. How complicated is that? I'm not great with chisels.
My problem seems to be the tongue, unsure if correct word, on the inside of strike plate. I finally used a hammer to flatten it then vice-grips to break it off.
My builder drilled the holes too high to begin with so I'm trying to fix. This video was very helpful! Did you fill in the space above the repositioned strike plate?
If anyone comes across a loose door latch or deadbolt and wants a solid repair that doesn't involve glue, stick, putty, or that ugly metal sleeve that ruins the look of your door, ReSecure Latch is that answer. ReSecure Latch sits inside the door alongside the latch, resecuring your loose latch from the INSIDE. Great for property maintenance, homeowners, and DYiers.
Beating the lips into submission can help if you have Thor’s strength cuz you’ll be beating on that thing for a good hour before it even moves a few centimeters, I managed to fix mine by just chipping away the wood of the frame a bit lower and I just moved the plate down and screwed it back in
Use these Amazon Affiliate links to order the supplies I used in this video. Bosch Self Centering Bit Set - amzn.to/36DjAcn Chisel Set - amzn.to/37LAnKD Screw Driver Set - amzn.to/2sNHWlj Hammer - amzn.to/2RbrvYf Razor Knife - amzn.to/2T7YPSm Wood Glue - amzn.to/2s5YNzg Super Glue - amzn.to/2T51Oeh Golf Tees - amzn.to/2NarJ0l
Why couldn't remove the strike plate, file the lower part, and then chisel out the lower part of the latch opening in the wood frame. In this way you wouldn't affect the screw holes as they would remain the same. Just a thought.
Don’t move the strike plate to fix a sagging door. Drive a couple of long screws through the top hinge into the 2 x 4 to lift the door up a little, or shim the bottom door hinge.
It’s a glass pane door. Why would they need to kick it in when they can break the glass and unlock it? It also has a deadbolt lock so the “little screws” aren’t what would prevent it from being kicked in.
Who on earth showed you that hitting a screw driver on its side with a hammer is the correct thing to do, apart from the fact you will end up with a damaged screw driver, the problem is with the hinged side of the door or the door frame. I recommend that you stick to golf, and get a tradesman to do the necessary repairs to your home
Paul, who do you think originally installed the strike plate in the first place? Very likely a "tradesman". Skilled tradesmen are becoming a rarity in this country. Has been going that way for 40 years. While not perfect, I enjoy videos like these.
Nice video - thank you for taking the time to make it. You did the right thing by using the self centering guide for the screw re-install. Here are a few things I do differently.
1. I never try to beat down the strike plate - that will only loosen the screws.
2. Check the hinge side for screw tightness - there is a good chance the hinges loosened up and the door sagged. The deadbolt may have been installed subsequent to the sag. The deadbolt may actually be the misaligned part of the door.
3. I replace the hinge and strike plate screws of exterior doors with #9x3 inch flat head (not bugle head!!) screws that are yellow zinc for corrosion resistance. This will drive the strike plate and hinges in to the studs, and not just the jamb. This will substantially improve the kick open resistance of the door and prevent future sag
4. The mortise is now too large for the strike plate, making the plate subject to movement. To remedy this, I put saran wrap on the strike plate and set it into the mortise filled with epoxy putty. This will embed the plate perfectly in the mortise, and the saran wrap (removed/cut off after curing) will prevent the plate from sticking. The epoxy fills all of the voids from the 1/4" gap above the plate to misadventures from chiseling out the mortise voids behind the strike plate.
5. In lieu of golf tees...another way to fill the old screw hole voids is to make a snake of epoxy putty and fill the old screw holes. The epoxy can be drilled, tapped, filed just like wood, but is stronger and more stable than the wood it replaces, making for a long term repair. In any event, filling the holes really just allows a good pilot hole to be drilled, as I do put in 3 inch screws, reaching the framing.
6. With the work involved, I recommend installing a more substantial combined strike plate that covers the deadbolt and doorknob mechanisms. Take a look at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778XXYSV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1, for a sample. Installed with the above mentioned 3 inch screws remarkably improves the doors kick-in resistance. This presumes a standard 5.5 to 6 inch standard lockset spacing.
7. For the more advanced worker out there, take a look at the Dremel router tool, which gives a smoother base than chiseling. Use a door strike plate installation jig if you are starting from scratch.
I hope this helps someone out there to stay safer and get their door to actually work properly. Do not rush the job....
You are amazing. Thank you so much for all of the tips. You should come make some videos with me sometime! I’m in Georgia.
I was just in ATL last week! (I'm from Boston, visiting the US Cabinet Depot facility, amazing visit!
After slightly moving the 1,3,5 knuckles on the door hinge to re-align the door the door knob bolt no longer fit into the striker plate. I used a multi function tool to score the jam then a chisel to remove the excess wood. The striker plate was only moved 1/8" so I used 3" screws to secure the plate to the jam. I always use a screwdriver when installing deadbolts and door knobs. Thank for the excellent video.
thank you from central VA, this DIYer just impressed his wife with some new youtube skills. thanks to this video, i was able to lower a strike plate and secure two loose plates. TIP* the sharper the chisel = better to break those fibers, and the self-centering drill is a nice touch
I definitely need some new chisels. I’ve abused mine pretty badly.
Thank you so much! I used
your “hammer tapping the screwdriver method” and it worked beautifully on my deadbolt strike plate! I’m a senior citizen and can’t afford to pay a handyman. So... God Bless You, and thank you, thank you, thank you!!
V.J. Morrison That is great! I’m glad it worked for you! God bless!
Check the reveal around the door to seeif the door has saged. If so add a shim piece behind the hinge to straihhten the door. And everyone should keep their chisels sharp.
Good job amd thanks for showing!
George Martin Thanks for the tips. I definitely neglect my chisels. I frequently use them for the wrong purpose.
Need to find more on shims.
Thanks so much for this video in re-aligning the door latch in order to enable the latch to catch & keep the door closed!😊
My pleasure.
I was taught to use a mix of wood glue and saw dust, in a paste consistency. Pack it in with a nail or whatever fits into the hole. Let dry and continue on as you mentioned. The golf tee is easier and faster.
I’ve used wood glue and dust to fill holes in furniture. Works well but won’t hold well in a screw hole.
thanks for the golf tee tip!
My pleasure.
On an exterior door, and for better security, use 3” screws when remounting the striker plate. Makes it much harder to kick in.
That is a good idea on many doors. This one has a deadbolt so it’s not as necessary. It’s also a glass door so they could knock the glass out and just unlock it.
@@TightWadDIY that is a poor excuse for not doing it right the first time. You can’t have enough security, period.
@@jeffhaberman4331 It’s ok to disagree. Have a nice day.
Used 3” screws, & instead of breaking the glass, the thieves kicked the door in… taking the door jam & trim with it.
@@jeffhaberman4331 pro tip: should you feel the need to end your remark with the word "period," you're probably not nearly as correct as you think you are. Good arguments don't require emphasis.
Cool centering drill bits.Only thing I would change is using longer screws to go into the stud for better strength.
Longer screws are great when there is no metal in the frame!
Nice tip with the golf tees!
Thanks. You can also use wooden dowels.
Love the golf tee trick. I have used tooth picks before, but now I’m going to have to pick up some tees.
Eric Jones I’ve seen the toothpick trio. I think one solid golf tee is much more stable. Give it a shot.
Try dowel rods, Eric...they're cheaper than golf tees (although probably not as dense/hard as the tees)...
Nice job Professor, after 30+ years the house settles and doors need some TLC!
I7
If they would have installed that prehung level and checked all the margins they wouldn’t have that problem .
If the door is sagging you can install longer screws on the top hinge and if that doesn’t work you can shim the bottom hinge out or bend the bottom hinge out easy fix
I would have put in longer would screws into the strick plate to insure they would grab well into the 2x4 frame behind the strike plate trim, also longer wood screws into the door latch frame in the foor to also better bugler proof your home from forced entry!
Just my 2 cents worth
beachbums2008 Thanks for adding great information.
When you buy most residential lock devices (deadbolts & handles), they usually come with longer screws (1 1/4" to 1 1/2" for the handle, and up to 4" long for the deadbolt) for the door jamb/frame) it takes using either a drill or an impact driver to install those longer screws, to keep 'em straight/level/perpendicular, as they go into the frame...
Another thing you can use for screw-hole-filler are dowel rods; many hardware stores have a fairly good selection of diameters, from smaller than a pencil (1/8"-1/4") to the standard 1 1/2" rods you see being used in closets for hanging clothes.
If you are between sizes for filling a hole, it's always better to use a knife & pliers, and whittle a larger rod down to accommodate the hole (as I agree with your comment about being better fot the screw to bite into one solid piece of wood, rather than glue-solidified pieces---like toothpicks, for example)... 🤔😉
I use chop sticks coated with carpenters glue to fill old screw holes. It is a cheap and quick fix.
That’s a great idea!
Is it just me or could you drive a truck through the gap on that door frame? Why not use dowels? Why not replace the broken golf tee dowel? Super glue instead of wood glue? Why is there so much light coming through when you're done (looks like it's gonna have quite a draft)? I have a lot of questions about the methods here.
Nice tip on the box knife + chisel to remove small bits. I'm going to try that for sure!
And drilling out the holes to match the tees? I would cut down the tees. The catch was not back far enough, the door rattles when closed
Advice for repairing broken old porcelain sinks?
I would replace it. Water leaks are hard to fix when there is a crack.
nice video on the use of tees,, but strike plates don't sag "doors sag" fix the door. good job with the golf tees thanks for sharing.
Exact same thoughts. Excellent short term fix, but not solving the actual problem. Thanks for commenting.
But the deadbolt worked fine. So, if you would have made an adjustment for the doorknob to work properly then the deadbolt would have been misaligned.
What do you suggest to do about the exposed/recessed wood above the strike plate after lowering it? Anything to fill that space?
I guess you could fill it with wood filler or caulk but I don’t think it’s necessary.
I really like the golf tee idea. And the self-centering bit. Thanks.
The self centering bit is such a game changer!
I have to move a deadbolt striker plate horizontally(toward the front of the door) to create a tighter seal. How complicated is that? I'm not great with chisels.
It will require some chisel work.
@@TightWadDIY I manage to do a passable job on the door. Now I have to do the same for another door for which I replaced the weather stripping.
@@swami1 I’m glad to hear you got it to work
Thank you! Perfect! Just everything I needed to know in 4:47. Woo hoo!
You’re welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Also use longer screws for more security with the strike plate.
Good idea.
Hi, thank you for the video, it is helping me to prepare to fix my laundry room door. How do you remove “flat-head” screws?
With a flat heat screwdriver.
Match sticks work great.
Another good idea. Match sticks and toothpicks are good options.
Good idea with the golf ball tee if you have a vacuum leak on your engine is running rough find a leak and plug it you will be amazed
I’ve plugged my car radiator with one too until I could get to the shop.
@@TightWadDIY tees come in handy for everything even emergencies that was good thinking you have a blessed day and God bless you
Thanks this helped me!
Great! I’m glad you found it helpful.
My problem seems to be the tongue, unsure if correct word, on the inside of strike plate. I finally used a hammer to flatten it then vice-grips to break it off.
Sharp chisels are your friend lol. Thanks
Agreed! Mine are in bad shape! haha.
Is this a good method to lower the strike plate if the door is catching?
It worked well for me.
Why did you put such sort screws back the strike plate? I think longer screws would have been better.
Not a bad idea, but also have a deadbolt.
Look up on Alpha latch striker plate on RUclips. This new invention solves all your problems.
I’ll check it out!
Thanks
You’re welcome!
My builder drilled the holes too high to begin with so I'm trying to fix. This video was very helpful! Did you fill in the space above the repositioned strike plate?
I didn’t. I don’t see where it would cause an issue.
If anyone comes across a loose door latch or deadbolt and wants a solid repair that doesn't involve glue, stick, putty, or that ugly metal sleeve that ruins the look of your door, ReSecure Latch is that answer. ReSecure Latch sits inside the door alongside the latch, resecuring your loose latch from the INSIDE. Great for property maintenance, homeowners, and DYiers.
Send me one so I can check it out.
Great job. It looks like you need to sharpen your chisel!
The chisel needs to be thrown away! Haha. It’s beyond repair. I’ve abused it a lot.
Thanks for the tutorial. I needed this information. Hopefully I'll be able to fix my door.
First you actually split the wood when extending the hole for the striker plate, a sharp chisel would have made a better job of it.
I 100% agree! I need to throw this one away and buy a decent set of chisels. This one is super cheap and has been abused.
Beating the lips into submission can help if you have Thor’s strength cuz you’ll be beating on that thing for a good hour before it even moves a few centimeters, I managed to fix mine by just chipping away the wood of the frame a bit lower and I just moved the plate down and screwed it back in
Double up the strike plate so there is less of a gap?
That is a weak area screw holes will be close buy a oversized plate re mortis it put 2 1/2 screws in it much stronger walk away be done
And that’s how you Do it in this Old House”!!..
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Why couldn't remove the strike plate, file the lower part, and then chisel out the lower part of the latch opening in the wood frame. In this way you wouldn't affect the screw holes as they would remain the same. Just a thought.
That would work if you are willing to file it down.
Thank you so much for this content great job!
You are welcome. It’s a great trick!
Placing a thin shim under the bottom right hinge would have done the same thing.
This correct and would work well. This door was already hanging level and seals well all around so I decided to move the plate instead.
Happens to heavy doors - they sag down
GGL That is sometimes the case for sure. There could be several factors that cause this.
Hello there! Where can i get the tool with the bit inside at?
Alberto Sanchez Check the description. There is a link to the self centering bits. I love them!
Bosch Self Centering Bit Set - amzn.to/36DjAcn
Don’t move the strike plate to fix a sagging door. Drive a couple of long screws through the top hinge into the 2 x 4 to lift the door up a little, or shim the bottom door hinge.
Car bondo is a great wood filler.
I bet!
wow such stripped screws... i dont know why you didnt replace them...
They weren’t stripped…
Why didn’t you fill in the gap at the top of the strike plate. Another video by a different author did the same thing. IMHO it looks awful.
That's what she said nice and tight fit😂😂ahahahahah good video man
Sharpen that chisel. Good tutorial though
Thanks. Those chisels are junk. I need knew ones.
Ya soft wood when some kicks it in with your little Screws
It’s a glass pane door. Why would they need to kick it in when they can break the glass and unlock it? It also has a deadbolt lock so the “little screws” aren’t what would prevent it from being kicked in.
Who on earth showed you that hitting a screw driver on its side with a hammer is the correct thing to do, apart from the fact you will end up with a damaged screw driver, the problem is with the hinged side of the door or the door frame. I recommend that you stick to golf, and get a tradesman to do the necessary repairs to your home
If I adjusted the hinge side of the door, the deadbolt wouldn’t align. There was no sag in the door.
It worked didn’t it
Paul, who do you think originally installed the strike plate in the first place? Very likely a "tradesman". Skilled tradesmen are becoming a rarity in this country. Has been going that way for 40 years. While not perfect, I enjoy videos like these.
Dremel... Just sayin'.