I would recommend using deionised water rather than distilled water. Distilled water is usually acidic (interaction with gases in the atmosphere, like CO2 which forms carbonic acid) The pH scale is also not linear and refers to the concentration of Hydrogen ions. For example a pH of 4 has ten times more hydrogen ions than a pH level of 5. A bit like the Richter scale for earth quakes. An earth quake of 9 is ten times more powerful than an earthquake of 8. This is why processes are usually very sensitive to pH levels. There is big difference between a pH of 5.5 and 5.7 for example due to the logarithmic or non linear scale of pH (it's why the pH equation for water systems is written as pH = -log10 [H+]. Notice that if you input a Hydrogen ion concentration [H+] of zero into this equation, you get a value of negative infinity? Infinite pH? What does that mean practically? The 0 to 14 pH scale refers to water as the suspending fluid. (actually it's a little lower than 0 and a bit higher than 14, but most substances involving water fit in the 0 to 14 range). The concentration of Hydrogen ions in solution is critical for biological and chemical processes that require a source of protons - and that is what a H+ ion is.
Really great and informative video. And let me preface this by saying that I have a ph meter, citric acid and baking soda on hand at all times. However, I’ve played around with these chemicals and just a tiny, tiny bit of citric acid will drop you into acidity hell while baking soda will only slowly creep you back to where you want to be. What I’ve discovered is that 5 star 5.2 is like magic. I put a tablespoon per 5 gallon wash or mash and if everything else is right, I have fermentation within 10 minutes. I’m not exaggerating. Try it. Its absolutely awesome!
There really aren't many videos out there like this which address pH and brewing. I really appreciate the info and learned a lot! I'd like to add this for all the mead makers out there. You mention 3.4 pH is the sweet spot for mead fermentation, and that might work. However, in Ken Schramm's well-known book "The Compleate Meadmaker", he quotes the in-depth mead making pH research of Morse & Steinkraus which states that the optimal pH range for mead fermentation is 3.7 to 4.6 which was high enough for yeast metabolism but low enough to inhibit undesirable bacteria. His advice is to measure the pH, then if it's below a pH of 3.8, add a half tsp of calcium carbonate, stir, and measure again until a pH of 3.8 is achieved.
have a stalled all grain mash that's kicking mine ass and anyone else that's been doing this a lot longer then I have been doing. I started my 1st all grain mash Feb 2, 10lb White cracked corn 8lbs Ohio Blue cracked corn 5lbs malted 6 row barley 5lbs malted red wheat and 4lbs malted Danko rye I seeped my corn at 185 for 90 min, transfered to my preheated barrel and added my malted grains. my temp drop nut recovered to to 155, I let it drop to 135 and added my enzymes (I know I don't technically need with malted grains) once cooled to 90 i added my Fermax and Redstar daddy. this mash was burping like crazy at 1st, then nothing. my SG 1.085 it stalled at 1.050, tried holding my mash temp to 85, my PH is at 4 and I cannot get it to move, I'm at 10 grams of pickling lime, no change. I've tried adding EC118 no help, ohh and after adding the pickling lime my gravity jump back up to 1.070. if I'm showing a gravity of 1.070 that means I have sugars for my yeast to convert to alcohol, yet it's doing nothing still any suggestions on what could be causing this?
Liked and SUBSCRIBED THank-you for all your time and effort to help others just recently found your channel have learn alot in a short time,your very easy to understand
how important is PH in my mashes? I've only been doing this crazy hobby for about a year and half, 95% of my mashes have turned out amazing. I have those 5% that just went bat shit crazy for whatever reason I can't explain. I got a ph meter from Amazon, it has never worked, I'm starting to focus on all grain mashes. PH is more important on an all grain versus a grain and sugar mash or am I wrong? I am using filtered water using a RV filter, so far so good
Can we assume that today's malts will come to ideal pH value soon or later? Is it a matter of time? In other words do we only lose time (make longer mash) comparing to them who adjust pH at the beginning? Or the mash never comes to ideal pH simply by waiting... I wonder this too much.
I love your videos. eventhoug I been making shine for sometime now your videos keep me intrested in the hobby. Wish u were my neighbor so I could just chat about the subject from time to time. But ur videos will have to do. Thanks for all u do. BUBBA
Could you do a video(s) about water? I'm considering moving to an area where RO seems the best option. John Palmer's book on water is helpful but the whole subject of brewing water (for beer or for a distilled beverage) seems complex and you have a talent for cutting through complexity and I think it would help others.
It is always good to know what the PH is before starting so checking the water is a good start. After adding ingredients you can adjust the ph to your desired levels.
Thanks George, I understand the pH gets the enzyme activity sorted for mashing, but does the sulfate & chloride ratios / amounts matter when making non-hopped mashes for spirits? or indeed wines?
It is easy to get confused about specific acids and acidity (PH) of the mash. Ratios are a totally different topic from PH but for one who wants to control every aspect of brewing could be a helpful study. George
Do you have any sources that states a pH of in the 5 range assists in Hydrolysis of the starch into sugar. Have you ever lowered then raised later. I realize plays a role in creating optimum environment for the yeast to ferment. Recently I am coming on distiller that believe that the heat alone will convert the starch, others believe in the malted/or amalyze added, and still other straight basic chemistry of Hydroliysis states addition of HCL to a starch mixture will break the starch bonds into the fermentable sugars. So have you ever hear of lowering the pH to promote hydrolysis during mashing then raising prior to adding amalayze to not harm it might promote higher conversions? Looking for maximum sugar conversion.
I have recently acquired a ph meter for wine making, it seems the ideal ph for a wine must is around 3.4, previously I made musts with a timetable acid level 6 to 7 grams per litre the recommended level ,, this seems to put the resulting ph to low . There seems to be a contradiction between the two methods of acidifying
I think for home distilling I would just go with the strips. I have them for my pool and they work fine. Might be different strips but same idea. But Right now I don't worry about PH but then I am distilling so not sure I need to. The meter seems a bit over the top and a lot of mucking around if not necessary.
Just watched the PH video. I’d be really curious to know how my local water measures up. I will definitely purchase one of these when I get started. Thank you George.
I did a batch of apple Jack. I also am looking at stills, and I'm thinking what would I get if I distilled apple Jack that was previously freeze distilled. Is there a name for that. Is it worth trying.
First thank you so much for your videos I have learned so much from watching you and it's very much appreciated. On the downside I have been paying close attention to the ph even bought a meter and the products to adjust it if needed. I am also a beer brewer and I recently decided to apply this to brewing to ensure a perfect ph in doing so I have ruined 5 5 gallon batches as each beer was left with a very citric sour taste I have been using Citric Acid and/or lemon juice to adjust it. I just want to warn people that this probably isn't the best idea for beer. Is there anything you advise for this? Thank you again I enjoy your videos and I use your techniques just not sure this is good for brewing beer.
Or should I try it and post my results. My grandfather made his own liker and once said if u make it your self you won't abuse it. Hope to put A.A out of business with this one.
I never really paid attention to pH because my beer always turned out pretty good, but have recently started looking at it and am noticing that as I've been adjusting the pH, the beers have gotten a tad better. So, not needed, but it'll take you that little extra inch.
Is it true that the rum turbo yeast package comes with what is needed to ensure that your mash is at the correct pH? I read that but it does not seem possible since there's no way for them to know what the pH of my well water is. Oh, and great video as usual!
Not sure but I can tell you that using citric acid or lemon juice if your ph is around 6 to 8 you adjust it with ether one of the two it will ruin the beer I had to pour out 5 5 gal batches they were left with a strong tart taste I brew all grain anyway thought I would pass that on to you I think they make a tablet for that to adjust ph for beer
Hi George, I've recently started distilling as a hobby and your insight into tips and tricks is of infinite help. I do have a question on pH. It occurred to me that in whiskey country (Tennessee, North Carolina etc) I've seen references to limestone caves as a source of water....perhaps I picked this up from reading about the Jack Daniels distillery. It seems to me that limestone would produce an alkaline pH. Do you have any comments on this? I'm just curious. Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed response. I was on vacation in Vegas for the past 5 days. Not really. To me it doesn't matter what the PH is and what source causes it. I can adjust it if necessary.
I found this very interesting and when talked about distilled water, answered my question for the pure water thing. How about the filtered water that one does for drinking tap like out of a fridge? I have thoughts since live in WI and have sugar maple trees for making syrup, what is your thought about using the sap for a mash to distill? Would the maple flavor go away in product? another thing I would like to try is get 14-18" round Maple stump, hollow out or most of it leaving staves and charcoal the inside, fill with chard oak and put in the stump, let the distilled run in and drain out bottom into jar(s)/bottle before into a barrel to age.
3 года назад+1
I made some "mead" from maple sap last spring. I have 2 gallons fermenting to distil in my new pot still. I will let you know how it turns out. If I remember.
Great video as always George. In the George Washington all grain video you add gypsum to temporarily harden the water to extract more starches (?) from the grain. How does the gypsum affect ph? Does it raise or lower? is hard water acidic and soft water base? Or the other way around?
Hard water can be either acidic or base. The gypsum has no affect on the static PH since it is temporary. Your reading may show a slight increase but that is only temporary. George
Hi George, this may be a bit off topic for this video but i was wondering whether I should distill my whisky on or off the grain? I use an open flame to heat the still up. Would this affect flavour as well?
I never really paid attention to PH but here in the past few years I have been and it has improved my mash efficiency and I think it has made my beers taste a lot better! I use that same pH meter.. great tool!
Hi George, I’m enjoying your videos very much. I’m learning much. You are a great teacher,,,👍! I retired from teaching last May and I find myself with an abundance of time. I was a shop/machining teacher. I just found a full sized beer keg at my brother’s old house. George for my first still, I thought I would use it based upon your keg video. Question is would or could there be any advantage to goose it up from 2” to 3” out? I thought that I’d like to make a combination pot reflex still. Or should I leave it at 2”? Do you sell these supplies cause I’d rather buy everything from you! I’ve learn AOTA from yo Professor G. Thanks so much... Richard
Would really like to see new recipes maybe. Love the whole idea with glycerin and would love to also see a sample video of the bourbon and rum. Then everyone can have more confidence in trusting your style. Plus I just am curious how well it came out! Everything other than glycerin I did years ago and per quart jar I added 1 Tbsp of honey and 1 vanilla bean from Mexico. Was very good as well. I believe that the only thing missing was glycerin though in my batch
Now I know what to expect when I buy and calibrate a PH meter. Thanks George
I would recommend using deionised water rather than distilled water. Distilled water is usually acidic (interaction with gases in the atmosphere, like CO2 which forms carbonic acid)
The pH scale is also not linear and refers to the concentration of Hydrogen ions. For example a pH of 4 has ten times more hydrogen ions than a pH level of 5. A bit like the Richter scale for earth quakes. An earth quake of 9 is ten times more powerful than an earthquake of 8.
This is why processes are usually very sensitive to pH levels. There is big difference between a pH of 5.5 and 5.7 for example due to the logarithmic or non linear scale of pH (it's why the pH equation for water systems is written as pH = -log10 [H+]. Notice that if you input a Hydrogen ion concentration [H+] of zero into this equation, you get a value of negative infinity? Infinite pH? What does that mean practically?
The 0 to 14 pH scale refers to water as the suspending fluid. (actually it's a little lower than 0 and a bit higher than 14, but most substances involving water fit in the 0 to 14 range).
The concentration of Hydrogen ions in solution is critical for biological and chemical processes that require a source of protons - and that is what a H+ ion is.
Really great and informative video. And let me preface this by saying that I have a ph meter, citric acid and baking soda on hand at all times. However, I’ve played around with these chemicals and just a tiny, tiny bit of citric acid will drop you into acidity hell while baking soda will only slowly creep you back to where you want to be. What I’ve discovered is that 5 star 5.2 is like magic. I put a tablespoon per 5 gallon wash or mash and if everything else is right, I have fermentation within 10 minutes. I’m not exaggerating. Try it. Its absolutely awesome!
I absolutely love all the tips and tricks you tell everyone that no one else does thank you very much love the videos
YOU GOT THE RIGHT NAME SIR!
Thank you George. I really appreciate it like the way that you'll break down the simplest of matters. Awesome teaching spirit.
There really aren't many videos out there like this which address pH and brewing. I really appreciate the info and learned a lot! I'd like to add this for all the mead makers out there.
You mention 3.4 pH is the sweet spot for mead fermentation, and that might work. However, in Ken Schramm's well-known book "The Compleate Meadmaker", he quotes the in-depth mead making pH research of Morse & Steinkraus which states that the optimal pH range for mead fermentation is 3.7 to 4.6 which was high enough for yeast metabolism but low enough to inhibit undesirable bacteria. His advice is to measure the pH, then if it's below a pH of 3.8, add a half tsp of calcium carbonate, stir, and measure again until a pH of 3.8 is achieved.
All good Clint.
George
have a stalled all grain mash that's kicking mine ass and anyone else that's been doing this a lot longer then I have been doing.
I started my 1st all grain mash Feb 2,
10lb White cracked corn
8lbs Ohio Blue cracked corn
5lbs malted 6 row barley
5lbs malted red wheat
and 4lbs malted Danko rye
I seeped my corn at 185 for 90 min, transfered to my preheated barrel and added my malted grains. my temp drop nut recovered to to 155, I let it drop to 135 and added my enzymes (I know I don't technically need with malted grains) once cooled to 90 i added my Fermax and Redstar daddy. this mash was burping like crazy at 1st, then nothing. my SG 1.085
it stalled at 1.050, tried holding my mash temp to 85, my PH is at 4 and I cannot get it to move, I'm at 10 grams of pickling lime, no change. I've tried adding EC118 no help, ohh and after adding the pickling lime my gravity jump back up to 1.070.
if I'm showing a gravity of
1.070 that means I have sugars for my yeast to convert to alcohol, yet it's doing nothing still
any suggestions on what could be causing this?
Liked and SUBSCRIBED THank-you for all your time and effort to help others just recently found your channel have learn alot in a short time,your very easy to understand
how important is PH in my mashes? I've only been doing this crazy hobby for about a year and half, 95% of my mashes have turned out amazing. I have those 5% that just went bat shit crazy for whatever reason I can't explain. I got a ph meter from Amazon, it has never worked, I'm starting to focus on all grain mashes. PH is more important on an all grain versus a grain and sugar mash or am I wrong?
I am using filtered water using a RV filter, so far so good
Question: should I get the ph level to 5.2 before mixing everything in and then AFTER everything is in (ready to ferment)?
Can we assume that today's malts will come to ideal pH value soon or later? Is it a matter of time?
In other words do we only lose time (make longer mash) comparing to them who adjust pH at the beginning? Or the mash never comes to ideal pH simply by waiting... I wonder this too much.
Thanks for the great explanation you made it very easy to understand. You Da Man George.
Well there's another gadget I can add to the Christmas list....Thanks George!
Are pH test strips temperature sensitive
I love your videos. eventhoug I been making shine for sometime now your videos keep me intrested in the hobby. Wish u were my neighbor so I could just chat about the subject from time to time. But ur videos will have to do. Thanks for all u do.
BUBBA
Wow, thanks
Thank you. As always, you really explain things well.
Could you do a video(s) about water? I'm considering moving to an area where RO seems the best option. John Palmer's book on water is helpful but the whole subject of brewing water (for beer or for a distilled beverage) seems complex and you have a talent for cutting through complexity and I think it would help others.
You read my mind.
I am working on one next week.
George
7,32 , you dont dip it you fill the top ,
so are you supposed to check and adjust the ph of the water before you make the mash or after?
It is always good to know what the PH is before starting so checking the water is a good start. After adding ingredients you can adjust the ph to your desired levels.
Thanks George, great info as always!
Thanks George, I understand the pH gets the enzyme activity sorted for mashing, but does the sulfate & chloride ratios / amounts matter when making non-hopped mashes for spirits? or indeed wines?
It is easy to get confused about specific acids and acidity (PH) of the mash.
Ratios are a totally different topic from PH but for one who wants to control every aspect of brewing could be a helpful study.
George
Thanks George, I’ll be getting one of those gadgets , very interesting. It’s quite scientific this brewing isn’t it
There are many different aspects of brewing but it is not a daunting task.
Enjoy the hobby as it pays back everyday with complete satisfaction.
Geogre
How do you adjust the ph
thanks for all the help
Twenty Five bucks?! Did it come with a free case of beer? I bought the exact same unit, including batteries for $8.95 Cdn, including shipping and tax.
You better recommend .pH meter electrode need to be wash with DI water before dipping in buffer solutions.thanks for sharing your great experience.
Do you have any sources that states a pH of in the 5 range assists in Hydrolysis of the starch into sugar. Have you ever lowered then raised later. I realize plays a role in creating optimum environment for the yeast to ferment. Recently I am coming on distiller that believe that the heat alone will convert the starch, others believe in the malted/or amalyze added, and still other straight basic chemistry of Hydroliysis states addition of HCL to a starch mixture will break the starch bonds into the fermentable sugars. So have you ever hear of lowering the pH to promote hydrolysis during mashing then raising prior to adding amalayze to not harm it might promote higher conversions? Looking for maximum sugar conversion.
Do I make ph readings/ adjustments before I heat up my water or before pitching the yeast?
I have recently acquired a ph meter for wine making, it seems the ideal ph for a wine must is around 3.4, previously I made musts with a timetable acid level 6 to 7 grams per litre the recommended level ,, this seems to put the resulting ph to low . There seems to be a contradiction between the two methods of acidifying
Thank you. Do you have any suggestions to prevent tartaric acid taste in wine?
I think for home distilling I would just go with the strips. I have them for my pool and they work fine. Might be different strips but same idea. But Right now I don't worry about PH but then I am distilling so not sure I need to. The meter seems a bit over the top and a lot of mucking around if not necessary.
I've been learning alot from watching you. So thank you wish you could taste the bourbon that I made
Just watched the PH video. I’d be really curious to know how my local water measures up. I will definitely purchase one of these when I get started. Thank you George.
I did a batch of apple Jack. I also am looking at stills, and I'm thinking what would I get if I distilled apple Jack that was previously freeze distilled. Is there a name for that. Is it worth trying.
First thank you so much for your videos I have learned so much from watching you and it's very much appreciated. On the downside I have been paying close attention to the ph even bought a meter and the products to adjust it if needed. I am also a beer brewer and I recently decided to apply this to brewing to ensure a perfect ph in doing so I have ruined 5 5 gallon batches as each beer was left with a very citric sour taste I have been using Citric Acid and/or lemon juice to adjust it. I just want to warn people that this probably isn't the best idea for beer. Is there anything you advise for this? Thank you again I enjoy your videos and I use your techniques just not sure this is good for brewing beer.
Thank you George for another of your many excellent videos. I always learn something. Thanks
Or should I try it and post my results. My grandfather made his own liker and once said if u make it your self you won't abuse it. Hope to put A.A out of business with this one.
Coincidentally, 5.2 is ideal for cloning plants.
I never really paid attention to pH because my beer always turned out pretty good, but have recently started looking at it and am noticing that as I've been adjusting the pH, the beers have gotten a tad better. So, not needed, but it'll take you that little extra inch.
Is it true that the rum turbo yeast package comes with what is needed to ensure that your mash is at the correct pH? I read that but it does not seem possible since there's no way for them to know what the pH of my well water is. Oh, and great video as usual!
Hi Sir, How can I inccrease The Tartness /Tart acid in My Homemade Red wine? Please let me know
Of course using buffering compound is best.
Thanks so much George, it's great to learn!
What is the ideal ph reading be for a finished sugar wash
5 gallons
I bought my PH meter this morning
Thanks George for all of your help.
Baking soda is 8 George
Put 1/4 tsp in 1/2 cup, will be 8 ph. You can calibrate to that
What happens if your PH is lower than 5.2 during your mash when brewing beer?
Not sure but I can tell you that using citric acid or lemon juice if your ph is around 6 to 8 you adjust it with ether one of the two it will ruin the beer I had to pour out 5 5 gal batches they were left with a strong tart taste I brew all grain anyway thought I would pass that on to you I think they make a tablet for that to adjust ph for beer
Hi George, I've recently started distilling as a hobby and your insight into tips and tricks is of infinite help. I do have a question on pH. It occurred to me that in whiskey country (Tennessee, North Carolina etc) I've seen references to limestone caves as a source of water....perhaps I picked this up from reading about the Jack Daniels distillery. It seems to me that limestone would produce an alkaline pH. Do you have any comments on this? I'm just curious. Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed response. I was on vacation in Vegas for the past 5 days.
Not really. To me it doesn't matter what the PH is and what source causes it. I can adjust it if necessary.
I found this very interesting and when talked about distilled water, answered my question for the pure water thing. How about the filtered water that one does for drinking tap like out of a fridge? I have thoughts since live in WI and have sugar maple trees for making syrup, what is your thought about using the sap for a mash to distill? Would the maple flavor go away in product? another thing I would like to try is get 14-18" round Maple stump, hollow out or most of it leaving staves and charcoal the inside, fill with chard oak and put in the stump, let the distilled run in and drain out bottom into jar(s)/bottle before into a barrel to age.
I made some "mead" from maple sap last spring. I have 2 gallons fermenting to distil in my new pot still. I will let you know how it turns out. If I remember.
Great video as always George. In the George Washington all grain video you add gypsum to temporarily harden the water to extract more starches (?) from the grain. How does the gypsum affect ph? Does it raise or lower? is hard water acidic and soft water base? Or the other way around?
Hard water can be either acidic or base. The gypsum has no affect on the static PH since it is temporary. Your reading may show a slight increase but that is only temporary.
George
Hi George, this may be a bit off topic for this video but i was wondering whether I should distill my whisky on or off the grain? I use an open flame to heat the still up. Would this affect flavour as well?
Totally up to you. On or off the grain are both good ways to distill. I prefer to distill off the grain to eliminate scorching.
How much baking soda to move ph by 2.0 points
I used 4 tsp in 5 gl to drop 2.0
Thanks so much !!
"Includes paid promotion"
I never really paid attention to PH but here in the past few years I have been and it has improved my mash efficiency and I think it has made my beers taste a lot better! I use that same pH meter.. great tool!
Another great video, thanks for the info.
Hi George,
I’m enjoying your videos very much. I’m learning much. You are a great teacher,,,👍!
I retired from teaching last May and I find myself with an abundance of time. I was a shop/machining teacher.
I just found a full sized beer keg at my brother’s old house.
George for my first still, I thought I would use it based upon your keg video.
Question is would or could there be any advantage to goose it up from 2” to 3” out? I thought that I’d like to make a combination pot reflex still.
Or should I leave it at 2”?
Do you sell these supplies cause I’d rather buy everything from you!
I’ve learn AOTA from yo Professor G.
Thanks so much...
Richard
Would really like to see new recipes maybe. Love the whole idea with glycerin and would love to also see a sample video of the bourbon and rum. Then everyone can have more confidence in trusting your style. Plus I just am curious how well it came out! Everything other than glycerin I did years ago and per quart jar I added 1 Tbsp of honey and 1 vanilla bean from Mexico. Was very good as well. I believe that the only thing missing was glycerin though in my batch